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Author Topic: YJ SOA Dana 30 Truss options?  (Read 428 times)
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AGUHR
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« on: November 23, 2011, 07:55:23 AM »

Does anyone make a HP Dana 30 YJ SOA truss?

I've seen people add a home built truss to the bottom of the tubes, which makes sense for a SOA application so you can span the entire tube. But can't find any application online that I can buy.

Anyone running anything like this that can give me some ideas to build from?

Or is it a waste of time and money?
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94YJ SOA lift, 1" BL, 35 12.50 Goodyear kevlars, Aussie locker in front, 8.8 rear lsd. 4.10 gears.
sharpxmen
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« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2011, 08:49:29 AM »

you'd be losing ground clearance - make one on the top and stop at the spring perches
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Jeffy
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« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2011, 09:10:57 AM »

If you actually need a truss then you might as well just upgrade to a Dana 44.
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FourbangerYJ
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« Reply #3 on: November 23, 2011, 09:14:08 AM »

Why do you want to truss? Plan on jumping your Jeep?
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AGUHR
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« Reply #4 on: November 23, 2011, 09:46:45 AM »

no jumping - I was reading that the tubes on a D30 flexing are what causes the ring gear to bind and ultimately cause damage.

I've only seen 1 HP D30 ring gear break and the guy was hitting it really had.

I wanted a more realistic opinion from other 4banger guys and by the sounds of it right off the bat its not really needed. This was my initial thought - but when you read all the hype online its hard to define what is needed and not - thus my question to my favorite source of information on all things 4banger.

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94YJ SOA lift, 1" BL, 35 12.50 Goodyear kevlars, Aussie locker in front, 8.8 rear lsd. 4.10 gears.
sharpxmen
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« Reply #5 on: November 23, 2011, 09:52:22 AM »

no jumping - I was reading that the tubes on a D30 flexing are what causes the ring gear to bind and ultimately cause damage.

I've only seen 1 HP D30 ring gear break and the guy was hitting it really had.

I wanted a more realistic opinion from other 4banger guys and by the sounds of it right off the bat its not really needed. This was my initial thought - but when you read all the hype online its hard to define what is needed and not - thus my question to my favorite source of information on all things 4banger.



the way i see it the most vulnerable part is between the quick disconnect housing and the diff housing, so you could add some reinforcement there
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Jeffy
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« Reply #6 on: November 23, 2011, 01:39:48 PM »

the way i see it the most vulnerable part is between the quick disconnect housing and the diff housing, so you could add some reinforcement there
I've never seen one break there.  I just don't see the D30 being an issue unless he's jumping it or running a modified V8 or some sort.  I just don't see it being worth it especially since he's in Florida.
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« Reply #7 on: November 23, 2011, 02:20:12 PM »

I've never seen one break there.  I just don't see the D30 being an issue unless he's jumping it or running a modified V8 or some sort.  I just don't see it being worth it especially since he's in Florida.

i'm not saying he necessarily needs one, just saying that if he gets one that's where i would focus (at a minimum) - would it be better with a truss? i think so, if it's done right of course (not end up with a bent housing after adding the truss). I'm thinking if welding the tubes to the diff housing and the quick disco housing would be a good compromise.
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AGUHR
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« Reply #8 on: November 30, 2011, 09:18:36 AM »

Don't focus I'm in Florida - I go out of state and travel back home to Missouri too, I don't do mud or deep water like most people think. We actually have hills in the northern part of FL where the Mountains start. Plus we go up to coal creek, SMORR, etc etc.  My worry was the housing near the pumpkin and if a set of 35s would cause undo stress allowing flex there which would in turn pinch or compress the pumpkin and thus hurting the ring and pinion.

I've never seen it break but that doesn't mean it may - and I do have a 4banger now - I plan on staying with a 4banger as long as I can, its brought me this far and runs great.
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94YJ SOA lift, 1" BL, 35 12.50 Goodyear kevlars, Aussie locker in front, 8.8 rear lsd. 4.10 gears.
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« Reply #9 on: November 30, 2011, 09:50:17 AM »

If you could get a seal to fit next to the diff, one alternative could be to sleeve the tubes on the inside, right across the disconnect housing.  I saw this sleeving recently on an XJ D30 and it looked like a good way to reinforce.   But it all depends on being able to install a seal right next to the diff, as in the XJ D30.

Edit:  On second thought, it doesn't seem it would do much to reinforce the center housing itself.
« Last Edit: November 30, 2011, 09:51:39 AM by neale_rs » Logged

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Jeffy
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« Reply #10 on: November 30, 2011, 04:09:10 PM »

Don't focus I'm in Florida - I go out of state and travel back home to Missouri too, I don't do mud or deep water like most people think. We actually have hills in the northern part of FL where the Mountains start. Plus we go up to coal creek, SMORR, etc etc.  My worry was the housing near the pumpkin and if a set of 35s would cause undo stress allowing flex there which would in turn pinch or compress the pumpkin and thus hurting the ring and pinion.

I've never seen it break but that doesn't mean it may - and I do have a 4banger now - I plan on staying with a 4banger as long as I can, its brought me this far and runs great.
I don't see it being a problem.  I know a few guy's who still run the Dana 30 with 36 TSL's and 4.0L's.  They do trails like Hammers in Socal.
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