Banks Header

[grumpygy]

Wonder if the jeeps they said were cracking were just stock with header added.  Know mine is not running lean but then I have some changes into mine about like most of you have.

  My Pacetter is not that old so I would not be a good example.  But still have about 5,000 miles on it now.

[Torch_Ind]

Wonder if the jeeps they said were cracking were just stock with header added.  Know mine is not running lean but then I have some changes into mine about like most of you have.

  My Pacetter is not that old so I would not be a good example.  But still have about 5,000 miles on it now.

I ran mine stock and most I added was bigger throttle body witch if it's was suppose to lean it more air should lean it even more.. 

I really can't see it causing lean..  not to mention if your so lean to the point your cracking exhaust why aren't you doing engine damage?

[sharpxmen]

i would just put 3 or 4 tig weld beads and give it a go that way, i can't imagine the pain of keep taking it off and send it for replacement - I did that on my camaro driver side exhaust header, they are known to crack between cylinders, didn't have a problem after that - it is cast so that's even worse than stainless, can't imagine a good weld there to crack again - from what i understand it cracks on the 4 in 1 collector between the pipes, most likely due to the welds that pull apart the collector more since they are thicker and more rigid, tig would also help normalizing like was mentioned before, just use stainless rods (i think i used 308 on mine if memory serves me well). Oh, and don't weld the crack itself, weld a couple of beads on each side of the crack and then put a bead between them, don't let it cool and put another 2 or 3 over the initial ones to cover the width and tie into the collector again and should hold forever.

[grumpygy]

i would just put 3 or 4 tig weld beads and give it a go that way, i can't imagine the pain of keep taking it off and send it for replacement - I did that on my camaro driver side exhaust header, they are known to crack between cylinders, didn't have a problem after that - it is cast so that's even worse than stainless, can't imagine a good weld there to crack again - from what i understand it cracks on the 4 in 1 collector between the pipes, most likely due to the welds that pull apart the collector more since they are thicker and more rigid, tig would also help normalizing like was mentioned before, just use stainless rods (i think i used 308 on mine if memory serves me well). Oh, and don't weld the crack itself, weld a couple of beads on each side of the crack and then put a bead between them, don't let it cool and put another 2 or 3 over the initial ones to cover the width and tie into the collector again and should hold forever.

Another old trick at the end of each crack drill a small hole.  This will stop the crack from moving on.  But hole needs to be small enough the weld will fill it.

[Torch_Ind]

i would just put 3 or 4 tig weld beads and give it a go that way, i can't imagine the pain of keep taking it off and send it for replacement - I did that on my camaro driver side exhaust header, they are known to crack between cylinders, didn't have a problem after that - it is cast so that's even worse than stainless, can't imagine a good weld there to crack again - from what i understand it cracks on the 4 in 1 collector between the pipes, most likely due to the welds that pull apart the collector more since they are thicker and more rigid, tig would also help normalizing like was mentioned before, just use stainless rods (i think i used 308 on mine if memory serves me well). Oh, and don't weld the crack itself, weld a couple of beads on each side of the crack and then put a bead between them, don't let it cool and put another 2 or 3 over the initial ones to cover the width and tie into the collector again and should hold forever.

  I think the lean comment was cause they didn't want to deal with it anymore for the small demand for them to begin with