aw12345
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« Reply #15 on: January 07, 2012, 07:03:37 AM » |
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Lower shock mount goes up, so does the upper mount. You want to match suspension travel to shock travel or things will break. The YJ rear upper shock mounts are prone to breaking as it is
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2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ SE 2004 Jeep Wrangler TJ SE
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kashola
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« Reply #16 on: January 07, 2012, 07:18:16 PM » |
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My point exactly. This would be a good time to add some stability and outboard the shocks. 
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neale_rs
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« Reply #17 on: January 09, 2012, 07:39:59 AM » |
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I'll be pretty careful about it. I also suspect the springs are limiting the travel and not the shocks. sharpxmen raised both lower and upper mounts and then ended up using shorter shocks with no loss of travel. I'll be checking to see if this is the case with my YJ too. Believe me, I'm pretty obsessive about making sure the Jeep does not damage itself!
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'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 BFG MTs, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, CV DS, rear D44 w/ ARB, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch, track bars removed
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sharpxmen
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« Reply #18 on: January 09, 2012, 07:50:29 AM » |
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I'll be pretty careful about it. I also suspect the springs are limiting the travel and not the shocks. sharpxmen raised both lower and upper mounts and then ended up using shorter shocks with no loss of travel. I'll be checking to see if this is the case with my YJ too. Believe me, I'm pretty obsessive about making sure the Jeep does not damage itself!
you'd need at least shorter shocks, the problem with the stock upper mount location requires too short of a shock (not available), i moved the mount point about 3 to 4 inches forward and about 1'' upward and still had to use the shortest one available. also, too short of a shock would mean less travel by that amount (3'' shorter means 3'' less travel, but having it less vertical means less at the shock - with lift leaf springs the axle moves forward a bit when it comes down and back when goes up as the leafs are changing shape). outboarding the shocks is probably the best solution if you don't mind welding on the frame (i do so that's why i went with the relocation brackets instead).
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« Last Edit: January 09, 2012, 07:54:57 AM by sharpxmen »
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neale_rs
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« Reply #19 on: January 09, 2012, 08:05:09 AM » |
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I'll have to check it carefully. I also want to avoid welding on the frame. I don't think outboarding would work, not enough space between tire and frame and frenching into a YJ frame is not a good idea since it acts as a bridge between the front and rear of the springs, which is not the case with a TJ. I might try to copy your upper shock mount design, it turned out very nice.
Thanks
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'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 BFG MTs, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, CV DS, rear D44 w/ ARB, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch, track bars removed
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sharpxmen
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« Reply #20 on: January 09, 2012, 08:49:48 AM » |
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I'll have to check it carefully. I also want to avoid welding on the frame. I don't think outboarding would work, not enough space between tire and frame and frenching into a YJ frame is not a good idea since it acts as a bridge between the front and rear of the springs, which is not the case with a TJ. I might try to copy your upper shock mount design, it turned out very nice.
Thanks
i beat myself for not measuring those parts before welding, if you go that route i can try and give you some rough dimensions for a head start (i'll write them down next time i'm under the Jeep). If I were to do it again i would probably move the mount point another 1/2'' to 1'' forward (as much as possible without touching the tub). the way they are right now everything is very close with the tire all the way up, not touching anything but better to have more clearance. Remember that i had to relocate my fuel filter, not a big deal but it's an extra step.
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neale_rs
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« Reply #21 on: January 09, 2012, 08:54:26 AM » |
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Thanks, I would appreciate having the measurements.
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'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 BFG MTs, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, CV DS, rear D44 w/ ARB, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch, track bars removed
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kashola
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« Reply #22 on: January 10, 2012, 08:32:36 PM » |
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frenching into a YJ frame is not a good idea since it acts as a bridge between the front and rear of the springs
Structurally, I see your point but haven't I seen this done quite a few times(especially with 3/4 ton Ford shock towers). Was thinking of doing this myself, but if it's gonna cause an issue...
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neale_rs
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« Reply #23 on: January 11, 2012, 07:36:21 AM » |
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I think frenching could be an issue on a YJ. With full width axles, outboarding would probably work fine with the Ford shock towers on the outside of the frame.
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'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 BFG MTs, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, CV DS, rear D44 w/ ARB, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch, track bars removed
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FourbangerYJ
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« Reply #24 on: January 11, 2012, 08:19:11 AM » |
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A guy I run with has a YJ with leafs and frenched frame to make room for the outboard shocks. Seems to work fine. No issues with frame cracking or any other strength issues so far. It's been a few years and he is not easy on his Jeep!
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Scott~ Using tools you have not used in a while is like shaking hands with old friends. 
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neale_rs
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« Reply #25 on: January 11, 2012, 08:51:49 AM » |
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Well, maybe it could work. In the vertical direction it should be just as strong although it seems some twisting could come into play. I read once about a Jeep with frenched rear shocks that fell hard on the rear corner and the whole back part got bent to the side, things like that I would just rather avoid! It could also depend on how much the shocks are frenched. I've seen some that go all the way across the frame rail and some that only go about half way across. the best way would probably be to have the shock go through something like a tunnel in the frame rail.
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'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 BFG MTs, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, CV DS, rear D44 w/ ARB, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch, track bars removed
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sharpxmen
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« Reply #26 on: January 11, 2012, 08:59:50 AM » |
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depending on the backspacing in the rims i think it can be done without cutting into the frame (which imo is the last thing you'd want) - the towers can be towards the rear so the shocks are at an angle and the tire won't get into the shock when it moves all the way up.
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neale_rs
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« Reply #27 on: January 11, 2012, 09:22:13 AM » |
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Toward the rear would probably have enough clearance, maybe to the front too, since the shocks are not super long coilovers. One thing to consider is the the shock will need more travel when outboarded than when inboard of the spring. I'm kind of leaning toward moving the lower mounts more inboard and angling the shocks out to the stock upper mount location with an adapter to account for the mounting angle. This might be a nice, clean, and simple way to do it.
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'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 BFG MTs, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, CV DS, rear D44 w/ ARB, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch, track bars removed
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