Brainstorming and setting the stage for the a doubler box

[Jeffy]

yeah, it is not - i am even contemplating if i should get more than 2 positions if not just 1, only concern is if i run into any issues to not be able to adjust it. I'll see how i feel, there's lots of holes so that could be the deal breaker - might just measure 15 times and get the final clocking and have it set. I could just do 2 positions also like 6 to 10 deg apart so that would only mean another 12 holes rather than an extra 84 (and they would all be done by hand and not on a CNC  )

12 sounds ok.  84 holes, not so much.  

[sharpxmen]

12 sounds ok.  84 holes, not so much.  

yeah, no kidding

i did find another solution, 12 bolts, 4 holes per set on the back ring = 48 threaded holes, 3 holes per set on the front plate = 36 thru holes and based on the angles in each set i can get the following clocking options (0 degrees is the default clocking of course)
0,1,3,6,9,12,13,15,19,21,24,25,30,31 (and so on, didn't calculate past that as it would be past horizontal)
or
0,1,4,6,10,12,13,16,19,22,24,25,30,31
or
0,1,5,6,11,12,13,17,19,23,24,25,30,31
or
0,3,4,6,10,12,15,16,21,22,24,27,30

and so on, all based on how many degrees the front plate holes are spaced at

but unlikely i will drill that many holes - i will measure the current angle and plan to be somewhere 1/2 way to the horizontal so i won't hit the floor/tub and call it a day.

only problem i'm having now is if i can machine that pipe on my lathe, it is very close to its max capacity and i need to get my 8'' chuck fitted to the spindle to be able to clamp it.

[neale_rs]

My bet is something around 7 will work well.

[sharpxmen]

i hope i figured it out
what i got was bearing p/n BD50-8
what i need apparently is BD50-8-A-T86NRX-01

or the Chrysler p/n 5072458AA

both are $40.99

($107 at the stealership  )

ok, the bearing saga continues - i ordered the NSK BD50-8-A-T86NRX-01 and was the same as the B50-8 one i ordered before, i returned them both. Next i ordered the 5072458AA which just came in and the same issue with the snap ring groove being located to one end rather than the center of the outer race. I went to another dealership and I was given the same part number. I called Magna (owners of New Process/Venture Gear) and they transferred me to their parts sales, left a message but did not hear back yet. I think i am just going to cut a new groove but this is extremely annoying, what in the world are you going to do if you own a Rubi and need a replacement bearing, the dealership doesn't even seem to have the correct part or part number.

[neale_rs]

I'll post this here to avoid messing up the new thread.

It looks like the Klune company has experience with how to support a doubler and transfer case setup:

http://www.high-impact.net/transmission_and_gear/Klune-V_Applications_Manual.htm#Mounting Foot

They mention two options: 1) moving the support to the doubler and 2) using a "snubber" under the rear output of the transfer case.  This indicates to me that there have been problems with doubler/TC setups without supports farther back.  I'm running a rear support ring, which I now think is necessary for a doubler/TC setup but probably not for just a heavier TC like an Atlas or Dana 300.

[FourbangerYJ]

C&P
In some applications, it is preferable to not use the transmission or transmission adapter mounting locations at all. A steel "mounting foot", available from Klune-V, can be bolted in with the Crawler. Then the original cross member is re-located farther back on the frame rails, or a new crossmember is fabricated and bolted up to the frame rails. A rubber mount such as a GM transmission mount or a Jeep rubber transmission support should be used between the Mounting Foot and the Crossmember. In this case, the rear snubber is not necessary.

I am using the mounting foot with a GM style rubber mount. It's between the Klune and D20. So far so good.

I have a buddy that just finished a 231/300 (D&D machine) He wants to make a rear output support. I am gonna give him a hand when he is ready for the support. He just finished the project and has 1 run on it so far. So far he loves it. Just the stock gears in each box.

[neale_rs]

Actually I messed up my post.  What I meant was that if the support is not moved to the doubler, then a rear support is needed.  But the foot at the doubler seems like the best setup overall because it avoids the problem that can come up if one of the supports gets bent upward (by a rock hit) and the other does not.

[sharpxmen]

i am planning to run a plate between the transmission mount location and the end of the crawl/doubler box (where it mounts to the D300) - this would give it a lot of rigidity and can be used for the rubber mount. using more than 1 mount would not completely eliminate the problem as in the end will be both flexible and not rigid, i think this approach would be better and stronger - you'll see what i mean when i get there with my project, won't be too soon

[neale_rs]

Sounds like a good way to do it, looking forward to seeing it.