Photo Courtesy of Trackhaus.com
OK, what is a Power Bleeder? The easiest answer I can give is that it is a pressure based brake bleeder.
For the 98% of the Jeeping community who actually work on their Jeeps themselves, you realize how important it is to have the right tools. And no doubt, during that time, you've had to bleed your brakes at least once. Now comes the time when you have to call your buddy up, roommate, or significant other to help pump the brakes while you open each bleeder and clear the air and/or contaminants out.
Well, this handy tool makes it easy to bleed the brakes by yourself! If you're like me, and not everyone is available to help you at 2:30am when you're working on your Jeep, this is a wonderful invention.
How does it work?It uses pressure in the brake lines to push out air when you open up the bleeder valves!
I purchased the Universal Car kit, which uses the 1101 and the 1105 Master Cylinder attachments. (See Link Below). This is the kit recommended for YJ and TJ models. It has a large adapter for older metal master cylinders, and the screw on adapter for TJ style plastic master cylinders.
Start off by hooking up the hoses, as described in the instructions. Don't forget the teflon tape, as you won't want any leaks. For the YJ, you will use the large rectangular adapter. Take the cap off your master cylinder, and rest the rubber coated side on top of your MC. Then use the supplied bolts to attach to the bottom of your MC. OOPS, here's the only disappointment of the whole kit. The Bolts aren't long enough, and they don't fit properly! So, make a run to your local Home Depot/Lowes and find the longer version, some washers and some wing nuts. You might have to bend them a bit to make it work, but it's no sweat. Now you're back in business. Proceed to tighten down the adapter to the MC. The instructions say you should use the included chains to make sure the seal doesn't come loose, but I never have. The pressure, combined with the bolts and the natural power of gravity should hold it in place.
Now, unscrew the top of the half gallon tank. Follow the instructions on how much DOT3 fluid to put in. I usually fill it a couple inches. Close the lid tight, and you're ready to pressurize. Turn the handle on the lid 1/2 a turn to unlock the pump, and start pumping! Watch the pressure gauge and pump until the desired pressure is achieved. The instructions recommend nothing over a 10psi as some rubber lines can't handle lots of pressure. So, now with your pressure built up, you're ready to start bleeding the brakes!
(one note of caution, i usually wrap towels around the fittings in the plastic hose, just in case of a leak, because i value my paint job!)
Bleed as usual, starting with the passenger rear first. Out of habit, I usually check the pressure after each brake to make sure it's still got enough. It usually will, and if it needs a pump or two, go ahead! Keep your pressure steady for each brake.
When you're all finished, sit back, and say "Wow, I did it myself!"
Was it worth it?Yep, for $65 plus shipping, it was definitely worth it. Pressure bleeding is more effective in removing air and contaminants than traditional pump bleeding. Add the advantage of not having to enlist help, and you've got one handy tool for the garage!
Where can I get it?I got mine from Trackhaus.com.
http://www.trackhaus.com/product-exec/product_id/25 It is model # MP0252, the Universal American Car kit with the 1101 and 1105 adapters. The current price is $63.95 + shipping. You can also find them on Ebay sometimes.
This one gets my seal of approval! :D
