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General Forums => Members Projects => Topic started by: Jeffy on March 07, 2007, 05:36:50 PM



Title: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on March 07, 2007, 05:36:50 PM
Ok, bare with me since it has been 15 years since I started.  This all started back in May of 1992.  I believe I was 15.  These pictures must have been a month or so after that since the Jeep has it's first set of plates already.  It's a 1992 Wrangler S with the minimal of options.  Just one, power steering.  There was no back seat.  No carpet other then a strip at the front.  No radio and no speakers.  As I soon found out, it didn't even have mounts for the stock speakers.  No rear bumper either.  Notice it has no antenna or hole drilled for one.  I traded in a old Hyundai Excel and still only paid $10,500 OTD.  You can't even buy a Jeep with that these days.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/1992.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/1992a.jpg)

This was the summer of 1993.  I soon got tired of the stock look so I had some extra money and bought a 3" Trail Master lift kit, Progressive Model 84 wheels and 32x11.5R15 BFG AT's.  I had talked to the Dealer I had bought the Jeep from and test drove a similarly lifted Jeep they were selling.  They agreed that if I took it to their approved shop, I wouldn't have any issues with warranty.  I have 1yr Everything and 7/70 Powertrain so this was important.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/1993.jpg)

In 1993/4 I bought a new front bumper.  This was the same one featured in 4Wheel Drive & Sport Utility several times.  They used it on their Bronco project as well as a few others.  The company had been bought out and a new company in Ogden Il (I think) was making the same stuff.  Back these big bumpers were cool.  Not to mention, there are many deer that run around out here.  I never did get to test it against a deer though, just a Pontiac T1000 and later a Rav4.

In 1994, I decided I wanted more lift to keep the tires off the flares.  So I bought some 1.25" Con-Ferr lift shackles.  These were fairly easy to install and made it look better.  it was all about the look back then.  With highway speeds limited to 55mph, gearing was never a problem.  Neither was wind resistance.  Makes you wonder why they raised them back up again.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/1994.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/1994b.jpg)

Jumping to late 1995 and I was getting ready to move out.  I had been tried of the soft top life and wanted something a bit more secure.  I ended up buying a Steel Horse (didn't know any better back then.) from Desert Rat in AZ.  They were one of the few places that had a top in stock in winter.  It was a real change and I thought it was for the better.  It was when the top was still new.  When it got older it would leak and the doors never quite fit right.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/1995.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/1995b.jpg)

So, in early 1996 I moved to west to the 50th state.  The hardtop came in real handy since it rains a lot in Hilo, Hawaii.  I think around February, my friend Andrew and I drove to the top of Mauna Kea Volcano to see the sun rise.  The drove went from sea level to 13,796 ft. in a short amount of time.  At that elevation there is snow at the top.  You could see the snow from the warm beaches.  At the top is was really really cold.  The other picture is of Waipio Road neat the northern tip of the Big Island.  it's supposed to be one of the steepest roads in the US.  4wd was highly recommended but I drove down and back in 2wd.  At the bottom was Waipio Park.  A really cool, black sand beach.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/1996.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/1996a.jpg)

I had enough of the quiet life and moved to the island of Oahu.  These is where all the people are and it was a bit more populated.  Before I left Hilo, I did get my top tinted.  It gets too hot to have a black top and no A/C.  So I had 5% installed in the back and 25% up front.  This was the legal limit and it was dark.  I'd say too dark.  At night, I could barely see anything behind me.  If it was raining, good luck seeing anything.

Now here's where things got weird.  Unlike other states, you are required to have instate 'No Fault' Insurance.  No fault means your fault.  There are still points but everything costs twice as much.  Even though I was an out of state student, my insurance wasn't going to cut it.  Also, instead of SMOG checks they had yearly 'Safety' inspections.  This was a joke and was only setup to get the good guys.  This meant spending $500 on flares, removing my aux. lights and a bunch of other pointless crap.  I had to get my 50-state exhaust certified and have a alignment done.  This was on a Jeep that hadn't been changed since 1994.  Change something and you have to go through it all over again.

Also during this time I met a guy named Rob who was working for the Navy at the time.  With his guidance,  I installed my first set of gears.  What a PITA that was.  Sitting under the Jeep in an open carport with constant 5 minute drizzles every so often then a down pour out of no where.  Still it only cost me $408 to get my gears installed.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/1997.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/1997a.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/1997b.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/1997c.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/1997d.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/1998a.jpg)

Sometime around 1998, I think, I installed a Tractech Gearless Lunch box locker.  It was one of the first to be smooth and livable on a day to day without all of the clunks and bumps of a regular locker.  I ended up returning it after several months under the recall.  Nothing bad happened but I thin I would have been better off with a spool then that locker.  I used the money to help buy a Detroit Locker for my D44 project.  I was BS'ing with a friend and he said he had a XJD44 sitting in his front years and couldn't use it.  So it was sold $150 and that project was started.  Lets, see, there were 4 of us working on it and had it ready in two weeks.  I would have been ready in a week but for some reason the axle didn't have Timken bearings in it and they were skinnier.  This threw off the shims and it took a another day for my gear man to redo them.  When that was done, I had the axle swapped out in a few hours.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2000b.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2000a.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2000.jpg)

Of course that wasn't enough.  I was ready for some new tires and I wasn't sure if I wanted to go with 33's or 35's.  Under the pressure of my friends, I went 35's.  I also didn't like the flares I had bought earlier so I sold them and bought some new flares.  I had a special deal with Warn since the other flares weren't up to my expectations.  The flares were just too stiff for offroad use and would pop off if hit.  I still love the look of the stock flares.  it makes the Jeep look completly different.  Or I should say the wide flares make the Jeep look completely different.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2002b.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2002a.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2002.jpg)

So the new 7" wide Warn Trail flares replaced the 6" wide Warn 4xFlares.  Because of the tire change, I got caught at the Safety Inspection again, where I had to go through the whole process a second time.  Actually, to get one set of papers, I ended up having to go back and forth a few times.  It's a real PITA to be 100% legal.  Most don't even bother and have friends or pay off the station to give them a safety inspection sticker.  The whole process is a joke.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2001a.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2001.jpg)

In 2003, I decided to pack up and move back to CA.  I had enough of the island life and it's one season.  So, everything and anything was bolted back onto the jeep.  Stuff was zip-tied in places since they shipped by car and not by weight.  It took a week for it to arrive back in CA.  I ended up picking it up at the port of Oakland, CA.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2003.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2003a.jpg)

Now the next day the Jeep went on a HUGE diet.  The front bumper was removed as well as the rear and the trackbar.  Aux. lights were rearranged.  In all, I think I shaved off several hundred lbs of stuff.  I think the next two pictures were taken a day apart.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2003b.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2003d.jpg)

Now the fun could really start.  In 2003, I decided to do a Socal trip and get some additional work done.  So I ended up going to ratherbejeeping's place in San Pedro and having teh front suspension redone.  The front would go from SUA to SOA in a few hours.  While we were at it we chopped the front bumper down a bit so it wouldn't get kinked if it hit anything.  The bumper was chopped and welded back together so it was still pretty strong.  I thought about going SOA all around but then decided that it was probably better to keep the rear SUA and have better stability.  I was finally able to bring the front pinion back inline with the transfer case.  The joint showed some pitting and probably should be replaced.  Maybe in another 10 years.  I was supposed to get a custom rear bumper/tire carrier made but I backed out.  I wanted to keep the rear of the Jeep light so I just fixed the bushings and have left it that way ever since.  The hinge is a little looser but it's been fine.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2003e.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2003f.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2003g.jpg)(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2003h.jpg)

So, that trip added something like 2000 miles driving here and there.  I stopped off at another friend's place on the way home and saw he had a top and doors for sale.  It was really tempting so I told him I'd think about it.  Well a week later I drove all 300 miles to pick it up, throw it on and turn around and drive back home.  I really like the rack but I haven't really had a use for it.  The only problem is that the jeep doesn't fit in the garage with the rack on and it's a bit heavy to put on and take off.  So it sits in my shed.  I'd really like to have a permanent rack up there that is supported by the body and not just bolted to the top.  Then I can add a tent up there that flips out over the hood.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2003i.jpg)

So, now I'm up to 2006.  In between 1992 and 2006 there were a few other things.  Sun Performance Quick Air II that turned into a Kilby York.  Revolver shackles were kinda cool although, I never installed the front shackles.  The rear limiting strap for the Revolvers, was custom built by Curt H. of Metal Made Rite.  Sold the Steel Horse top then shipped my stock top from CA to HI.  1.25" JKS body lift was added to help fit the 35's better.  Currie 1" MML was installed then replaced with a TransDap 1" MML.  Since this was a daily driver and the rack seemed to hate the poly MML, it was changed to a 1" JKS spacer lift.  Oh so much better.  The rear tail lights were changed to flush mounted LED's.  RE Swaybar disconnects were added sometime in 1998 as well as a RE hand throttle.  Mastercraft Rubicon seats were sometime in 2002 I think.  J&L bolt-in roll cage went in well before that though.  The dash was also rebuilt since it had risted out in the mean time.  Two rear bumpers, a Smittybilt and a Pro-Comp were installed and removed.  Not it sits naked with mo reer bumper.  Warn winch was installed since I got a great deal on it.  $429 with $27 shipping.  That's hard to beat even today.  Mostly, it just sits on the front of the Jeep and corrodes though.  I'm sure there are a lot of other things I'm forgetting but this gets me up to date I think.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2006.jpg)

So what's next.  Nothing yet... The next stage will be expensive and I won't be able to piece-meal so I'm holding off.


Title: Re: 15 years in 15 minutes: Jeffy's Jeep
Post by: Mozman68 on March 07, 2007, 06:19:25 PM
thanks for catching me up...but now I'm tired.... :eek:


Title: Re: 15 years in 15 minutes: Jeffy's Jeep
Post by: chardrc on March 07, 2007, 07:10:12 PM
man thats allot of stuff.. man a person who has actually owned a jeep for its entire existence.. :bow:


Title: Re: 15 years in 15 minutes: Jeffy's Jeep
Post by: lanulos89 on March 07, 2007, 08:01:35 PM
so when did the doors get messed up, or diff. color at least?????


Title: Re: 15 years in 15 minutes: Jeffy's Jeep
Post by: Jeffy on March 07, 2007, 08:31:34 PM
so when did the doors get messed up, or diff. color at least?????

Oh, I still have the original doors, they're just in the garage.  The originals are half doors while the top uses full doors.  I think the top and doors are from a 1994 YJ.  Forest Green, I think.  My Jeep is a limited production Sage Green Low Gloss Metallic.  They only use this color for 1992 and it's tough finding a matching door.  It's common to see a YJ with missmatching doors though.  Kinda like being in a club.  :lol:


Title: Re: 15 years in 15 minutes: Jeffy's Jeep
Post by: lanulos89 on March 07, 2007, 08:55:14 PM
i kno i just figured you kinda xplained like replacing every single nut and bolt, figured u wouldve said about your doors too


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: dunklervogel on March 10, 2007, 10:01:10 PM
so when did the doors get messed up, or diff. color at least?


stopped off at another friend's place on the way home and saw he had a top and doors for sale.  It was really tempting so I told him I'd think about it.  Well a keep later I drove all 300 miles to pick it up, throw it on and turn around and drive back home.


 8)



Oh and quite a history you got there... was an interesting read!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Guardian7 on April 22, 2007, 07:01:09 PM
Jeffy. how do you like those dual fog/driving lights? I am watching a pair on Ebay for $14.99


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: damon54 on April 22, 2007, 07:39:19 PM
I was considering the SOA on mine and saw that you did that to the front.  How does that work out for you?  And how do you match the front and the back.  (sorry if that is a retarded question!)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 22, 2007, 08:01:34 PM
Jeffy. how do you like those dual fog/driving lights? I am watching a pair on Ebay for $14.99

Well, those lights are PIAA's and they ain't cheap.  They work great though.  I can switch from the yellow fogs to the projection driving lights with a slip of the switch.  So they're like two lights in one.

I was considering the SOA on mine and saw that you did that to the front.  How does that work out for you?  And how do you match the front and the back.  (sorry if that is a retarded question!)

It works out pretty good actually.  Most of your ride quality comes form the front suspension.  It's rather soft BUT doesn't sway that bad with the swaybar attached.  There is no trackbar on either the front or rear.  It's stable enough to take a turn rather hard without feeling like it's going to tip over.  I take turns a bit serious.  With the front swaytbar disconnected there is a bias towards the front but it still works well.  I might end up swapping from my stock leafs to some RE 1.5" SOA leafs and maybe some 4.5" or 6" leafs.  The Jeep currently sits almost level.  I measured around 1/4-1/2" difference between the front and the rear with the top on.  The top really softens the rear springs.  It gets a bit stiffer when the top is off.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on May 08, 2007, 02:51:31 PM
Jeffy,

Reading your description I think your Jeep has 4.25 inches of suspension lift in the back.  I was wondering what kind of rear driveshaft you are using and if you have a SYE?

Thanks



Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 08, 2007, 03:23:53 PM
Jeffy,

Reading your description I think your Jeep has 4.25 inches of suspension lift in the back.  I was wondering what kind of rear driveshaft you are using and if you have a SYE?

Thanks



Stock driveshaft for now.  Keep in mind though. I have no T-case shims or axle either.  The angle is sorta kept in check with the 1" MML and the D44.  It's not the best setup but it works for now.  I'm holding off on any SYE since I'll probably eventually go with a new transfer case.  I know there is a thread around someplace, when I removed the shims and shows picts.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on May 08, 2007, 03:34:03 PM
Thanks.  I'm looking into lifting 2.5 inches so it sounds like it should be no problem with the stock DS.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 08, 2007, 04:40:11 PM
Thanks.  I'm looking into lifting 2.5 inches so it sounds like it should be no problem with the stock DS.

Maybe or maybe not.  With a stock setup and a 2.5" you'll probably need use T-case shims.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: chardrc on May 08, 2007, 07:02:07 PM
with my 1990yj i needed the tcase lowering shims for my 2.5 inch lift.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on May 09, 2007, 06:47:28 AM
Sounds good, still wouldn't be much trouble.  Thanks.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on August 03, 2007, 06:51:53 PM
Decided to wash the Jeep today.  I think it's been close to 2 years since I had washed it.  The engine was pretty gunky so I hosed it down and got most of the intake.  Oh and I installed the stock flares back on.  I did notice I rubbed the rear fender when I was throwing the weight around a little.  I'm still undecided if I want to go with 6-7" TJ flares, Stock TJ or Stock Rubicon flares if I sell my Warn flares.  I really wish my wheels had more BS.   :lol:

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/jeep/20070803-011.png)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/jeep/20070803-007.png)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jesse-James on August 04, 2007, 01:57:19 AM
I'd go with the Rubi flares.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on August 04, 2007, 12:23:08 PM
I'd go with the Rubi flares.

Those aren't cheap though.  One things I noticed is that I get a lot more contact with the flare then I ever did with the Warn flares.  The main problem is the lip of the flare really closes the opening.  When the tire sits inside the flare it clears the lip.  Then the only thing for it to make contact with is the body.

I have about 3" of tread sticking out past the flare right now.  With the 7" flares I had 0". It's nice to have complete coverage when it's wet.  I've had on several occasions where I've driven with the window down and did left turn and had a stream of water come in through the window.   ???  I'm not sure if I like the look of wide TJ flares either.  Although, like my 7" flares, the extended TJ flares look alright from certain angles.

Fenders and Mudguards

27600.  No person shall operate any motor vehicle having three or more wheels, any trailer, or semitrailer unless equipped with fenders, covers, or devices, including flaps or splash aprons, or unless the body of the vehicle or attachments thereto afford adequate protection to effectively minimize the spray or splash of water or mud to the rear of the vehicle and all such equipment or such body or attachments thereto shall be at least as wide as the tire tread. This section does not apply to those vehicles exempt from registration, trailers and semitrailers having an unladen weight of under 1,500 pounds, or any vehicles manufactured and first registered prior to January 1, 1971, having an unladen weight of under 1,500 pounds.

Amended Ch. 215, Stats. 1970. Effective November 23, 1970.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on September 25, 2007, 04:02:07 PM
I guess I should update this since I've done stuff, huh?  Well since no one's going to buy my 7" flares, they went back on the Jeep today.  What a PITA to swap flares.  At least its one thing the PD can't complain about.   :fitz:

So the other day I went ahead and swapped my Fool Injectors.  It's becoming really easy to swap them.  It's like I do it all the time now.   :confused:  Well, so far there hasn't been any hickups since that one that caused the 22 & 27 codes to pop up.   I do like the pep at 2700RPM though.  It's like nothing then off you go.  Oh yeah, when I swapped them to teh Design II's and had problem I ended up spending about 30 minutes just polishing the fuel rail.  It's nice an shiny now.  :smokes:

I'll get a better picture of the engine later.  You can see the full write-up at: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=3479.0

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/4BangerJP/fuel_injector/Design_III_FI-016.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: BlackYJ on September 28, 2007, 06:47:21 AM
Hey Jeffy, I was reading thru about your suspension and notice the SOA front and SUA rear.  What are you running for springs to keep it level?  I am thinking about doing this myself.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on September 28, 2007, 11:25:31 AM
Hey Jeffy, I was reading thru about your suspension and notice the SOA front and SUA rear.  What are you running for springs to keep it level?  I am thinking about doing this myself.

Currently the rears are old Trail Masters 3" leafs.  Technically they are 3.5"-4" though.  The fronts are Stock 5 pack rear leafs.  It sits amazingly level. (Jeeps come from the factory with more lift in the rear.)  There is about 1/4" difference in height from the front to rear.  If I take the top off, it will raise back up a bit.  If I was to do it again, I would get Rubicon Express SOA 1.5" Leafs up front and 4.5" Extreme leafs for the back though.

If you cancel out the slope in the driveway you can see it's not rear up.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/jeep/2a2bdb31.jpg)



Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: BlackYJ on September 30, 2007, 11:13:18 AM
Currently the rears are old Trail Masters 3" leafs.  Technically they are 3.5"-4" though.  The fronts are Stock 5 pack rear leafs. 

Really, see I want to go with Alcan springs and get 0" lift SOAs for the front and about 5" lift SUAs for the rear.  Are you running the same length shackle front and rear?

Your Jeep does look nice and level.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on September 30, 2007, 11:43:24 AM
Currently the rears are old Trail Masters 3" leafs.  Technically they are 3.5"-4" though.  The fronts are Stock 5 pack rear leafs. 

Really, see I want to go with Alcan springs and get 0" lift SOAs for the front and about 5" lift SUAs for the rear.  Are you running the same length shackle front and rear?

Your Jeep does look nice and level.

Yes, stock length shackles up front and in back.  I'd like to change them out to dog legs in the back though.  My front leafs aren't flat but rather have some sag to them.  Better leafs or new ones would probably gain me 1-2" back.  Also, keep in mind that I have a 1.25" body lift.  Although if I go with some Volvo 304 axles, I'll go back to stock height leafs and SUA.

0" up front and 5" in the back will for sure give you more rear lift then up front.  I used to run 1.25" lift shackles in the back.  You can really see the difference in this picture:

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/jeep/DSCN3487.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on October 16, 2007, 11:23:37 AM
Well, here's an update.  I recently picked up some 5" dogleg shackles for the rear.  Now I can replace the stockers that are back there!  I'll only be gaining 1/2" of lift but a lot more clearance for the leaf to flex.  I've still got to trim the body though.  The 35's are hitting the rear opening of the fender when it compresses.  The cuts should be hidden by the flare though.  I should have some pictures by next week.

On another note, I've been thinking about what to do with the rest of the Jeep.  I was thinking about going with some Volvo axles BUT I think I might axe that idea.  Instead I'm thinking engine swap.  Two engines have come to mind.  The first is a GM Vortec 5.7L with a 4L60e 4-speed transmission.  The second is a GM Vortec 6.0L  with a 6L90e 6-speed automatic.  So why these engines?  Well, it seems I can get a complete engine, with harness, computer, all the sensors, exhaust up to the muffler, all the accessories, transmission and transfer case for a decent price.  Basically the whole powertrain was removed as one.  All I'd have to do is mount it and then splice it into the bulkhead harness plug.  Then wala! no more power complaints.  Most of the engines this guy removes have less then 8000 miles.  Some as low as 3K.

I've talked to a CA Certified Smog SAE Mechanic about doing a swap and what would be required.  I was told I could get the engine from anywhere which makes it 1000x easier to find.  This was my biggest problem so far.  I fulfilled all the other requirements by choosing an '07-'08 engine that's complete.  I think the only other issue could be getting the muffler connected.  Both of these engines use a single pipe but it's a bit long.  I could fix it by moving the engine forward though.  I'd have to go with cable shifters though.  I'd like to run a La-Carr floor shifter so it looks like a manual still.  Then there's the Tcase.  It comes with a BW of some type but that will have to go.  I think a StaK 2-speed would be fine.  With a V8, I probably won't need 200:1.   :pirate:

Well, this is all a pending funds now but I'm getting all my ducks in a row.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jesse-James on October 16, 2007, 01:33:37 PM
Let me be the first to say it......TRAITOR!  :twofingers:



With that out of the way, keep us posted on the details and write up.  :rtfm:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on October 16, 2007, 01:42:39 PM
Let me be the first to say it......TRAITOR!  :twofingers:



With that out of the way, keep us posted on the details and write up.  :rtfm:

Well, it's not longer then a I4 and in fact has TWO I4's put together!  So you'll probably see a 4bangerTwinJP.com...   :lol:  Maybe not...

I still need to do some other little things to my Jeep before I can get around to a swap.  I think the rear axle will be OK as long as I swap to some USA Alloy axle shafts.  Then my weak point will be the D30 which I'd eventually swap for a proper D44.  The one good thing about doing a swap would be that I can keep my 4.56's.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on October 16, 2007, 02:41:06 PM
Ok, another update.  I just bought a Ford Lincoln MK VIII electric fan.  It's similar to the Mustang but larger.  22x18.6x6.5.  That would cover the whole radiator surface from what I've measured.  More to come next week I hope.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on October 25, 2007, 05:04:59 PM
OK, got the rear shackles swapped out.  Took a while 10 minutes.  I bought the shackles off ebay from a guy who's trying to work the bugs out of his CNC machine.  The thickness is a little thinner then my other custom shackles but they're still a lot stronger then the stockers.  Not to mention they add .5".  Not bad for $20.

The electric fan will be next.  It was paid for back on the 16th and I only got a shipping notice the other day.  It's slooooowwwww......


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: dexetr30 on October 26, 2007, 06:44:47 AM
I have the same fan. I haven't had time to do the install yet. How about an official e-fan write up when you get to doing it?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on October 26, 2007, 02:29:16 PM
I have the same fan. I haven't had time to do the install yet. How about an official e-fan write up when you get to doing it?

Most likely, I will.  I didn't really thing people cared to see a shackle install since they're so easy to do.  Well Actually I replaced the bolts years ago and went back to teh stock shackles so the bolts were pointed in the right direction, which makes it a snap.

I'm hoping to see the fan next week but I'm not holding my breath.  Like I said I paid on the 16 and got a UPS shipping notice on the 23 but there is no record more then just the pickup notice.  So we'll see...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: dexetr30 on November 02, 2007, 05:12:03 PM
Jeffy, what kind of thermostat switch kit are you planning on using for the fan insall?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 02, 2007, 06:56:14 PM
Jeffy, what kind of thermostat switch kit are you planning on using for the fan insall?

My finger!   :lol:  I haven't decided but I might just run it off the relay for a while.  I'll probably go with something in the $30 range if I go with a thermostatic switch.

The fan won't come till the 6th which is three weeks after I paid for it.   :brick:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 05, 2007, 04:52:25 PM
The fan


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: dexetr30 on November 05, 2007, 05:36:18 PM
Uhhh, Jeff... I don't think that fan will work sitting on top of the winch like that.  :wall:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on November 05, 2007, 05:38:22 PM
Uhhh, Jeff... I don't think that fan will work sitting on top of the winch like that.  :wall:

Hey, what do you mean?  Now he's going to have some "cool" winching when he rides!  :roflol:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: dexetr30 on November 05, 2007, 05:45:56 PM
Uhhh, Jeff... I don't think that fan will work sitting on top of the winch like that.  :wall:

Hey, what do you mean?  Now he's going to have some "cool" winching when he rides!  :roflol:

Jeffy not wheeling = no need for the winch. Not using the winch means it doesn't heat up so the fan serves no purpose.  :stick: :lol:

Geez, at least I take my Jeep through mud puddles after it rains.  ;)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 05, 2007, 06:36:00 PM
Uhhh, Jeff... I don't think that fan will work sitting on top of the winch like that.  :wall:

Oh geez, I put it there so you could get some perspective on how big it was.  My Warn doesn't overheat.  :twofingers:

I think I'm going to be getting a Flex-a-lite Adj. thermostat switch.  Seems to be the cheapest option.  I don't think I need a $60 thermostat switch.  http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FLX-31147  Then all I need to do is wire it to a Key'ed power source.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: dexetr30 on November 05, 2007, 07:07:32 PM
I have two choices I could go with in regards to the thermo switch.

1. Hayden thermostat control with relay and wiring.
2. The flex-a-lite adj thermo switch that you mentioned.

I have both in my possession but the Hayden looks like it's built a bit heavier.



Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 11, 2007, 07:08:29 PM
Started futzing around with the Jeep.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/4BangerJP/lincoln_fan/78db230a.jpg)

Ended up making a mess in the garage since I wanted to check adn see if I have a thermostat in the Jeep.  For some reason I have two 195 Robert Shaw Thermostats.  I don't know where it came from either.  I also have a 180 in a box as well.  I don't really remember buying two 195's.  In any case it's there and I made a mess.

I'm hoping to have the fan installed and running tomorrow.  I need to redrill the brackets I made since the holes are off.   ???  It covers 100% of the radiator and really looks like it belongs there.  I'm also planning on removing the extra mounting legs that where on there.  Most are over the brackets I made which makes using a ratchet impossible.  For not I'm going to wire the fan on the slow speed with a 40amp relay.  I haven't decided on what thermostat I want but I'll figure out something.  Once I have the relay and switch in, it will be really simple to install the thermostat later anyway.

Oh and the brackets are small but they don't really need to hold up the weight of the fan. The bottom of the fan sits on the top of the lower tank.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: dexetr30 on November 13, 2007, 08:06:32 AM
Looks good so far Jeffy. Where are you getting your power from?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 13, 2007, 10:17:31 AM
Looks good so far Jeffy. Where are you getting your power from?

I have a 40a relay and I've got most of the harness done.  The relay will go straight to the battery.  Trigger will go to the dash and to a switch then to a tap off the fusebox for now.  Since I'm only running the slow speed, the 40a relay should be fine though.  I'm sure it will pull enough.  If I waas going to setup the high speed fan, I'd need to get a 75a or higher relay.  Those run about $25 while a 40a is a few dollars.

In any caase, the fane came out yesterday and I had to drill the brackets again.  The holes for the radiator mounts were too small to allow for adjustments.  While it was out I cut off the OEM mounts.  They just got in the way.  I trimmed down the metal brackets also, since they were a bit oversized as well.  I think I would have it all done by today though.

I still want to get a adjustable thermostat to control the fan.  I'm not sure if I need a diode though.  It would seem strange that FOMOCO wouldn't have one in there to begin with.  Although, I'm not sure if the fan ever stops spinning.  So that's another couple cents to buy a diode as well.

One other concern I have is with all of the electronics I have running at one time.  I've got my stereo with a 160w amp as well as my GPS.  Then there's the headlights as well as my fog lights.  I know my alternator will need to be upgraded.  I can hear it stressing a bit already.  So that will probably be the next thing I replace.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 22, 2007, 10:21:24 PM
Whooo!  It's in and running!

http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=400.msg29682#msg29682

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/4BangerJP/alternator/PICT0013.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: dexetr30 on November 23, 2007, 07:27:39 AM
Great. Let us know what kind of results you think you got power wise. It's getting a bit to cold out here for me to install this thing right now. The garage has no heat. I won't be installing mine until spring.  :'(


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 26, 2007, 11:54:38 AM
Ended up putting the roof rack back on since I had to make a run to the lumber yard the other day.  It hads a noticeable amount of weight up top and I'm sure it's not that good for highway driving.  The weight causes the body to sway more.  I can't imagine putting my spare up there like what many XJ'ers do.  I've seen what happens with a lot of weight up top on an XJ.  Gas mileage tanked and he was always worryign about leaning into a rock face (Rubicon).

Well, here's the newest pictures I've got.

So far the alternator is doing what it should and the fan is working fine.  I've still got some air in my system but it will work it's way out.  Temp gauge sits at the hash mark before 210.  It will occasionally drop below that.  So the fan must be working fine.  I have a kill switch for the fan already but I need to make a new switch panel first.  I also want to add a thermostat for the fan but that's not really necessary right now.  I'm not hurting for power anymore.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/jeep/37089dfb.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on November 26, 2007, 01:46:46 PM
So the available power after the e-fan is pretty noticeable?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 26, 2007, 02:25:38 PM
So the available power after the e-fan is pretty noticeable?

Well, what are you calling power?  Horsepower or Torque?  Torque-wise, there is more and it's noticeable.  I'm not sure if there is a noticeable HP difference.  Probably a slight increase as well.  It's hard to tell if there is much of a HP increase since I've reduced my aerodynamics a bit.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on November 26, 2007, 02:56:12 PM
Thanks.  In general I care more about torque improvements, gearing etc.  Sounds like a good mod to consider.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Mr_Random on March 21, 2008, 09:47:27 PM
I want to do an E-fan in my XJ, The lincoln should fit, but what other's would work? I know of taurus being used alot (and the other ford company car that shares the body style, forgot which one), but what are their dimensions? Also, what would be a reasonable JY price for one? (one JY said $65 for it, and I was like "Um, okay" and walked off, outrageous!)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 21, 2008, 09:52:34 PM
I want to do an E-fan in my XJ, The lincoln should fit, but what other's would work? I know of taurus being used alot (and the other ford company car that shares the body style, forgot which one), but what are their dimensions? Also, what would be a reasonable JY price for one? (one JY said $65 for it, and I was like "Um, okay" and walked off, outrageous!)

http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=3781.0


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jesse-James on April 15, 2008, 03:47:13 PM
So, is there anything that you would have done differently in regards to your current lift if you had the chance? Tearing mine apart next week to do something similar.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 15, 2008, 04:17:33 PM
So, is there anything that you would have done differently in regards to your current lift if you had the chance? Tearing mine apart next week to do something similar.

Height wise, I think it's just right.  If I had the money to do it again, I'd go with RE SOA 1.5" leafs up front and 4.5" XD leafs in the back and then ditch the 1.25" body lift.  Although, stock leafs up front and the 3.5" Trail Masters I have now aren't a bad combo.  I was actually originally going to go SOA all around but then decided against it.  I had to drive 200 miles to get to my friends place and then 200 miles back that same day so there was no time to test anything.  My friend runs a similar setup.  We talked about it for a while and he jumped the gun.  Although he proved it could me done cheaply.  Since there was very little height change, not much was necessary other then welding new perches on.  It fixed my front pinion angle which was pretty bad.

The only area that's a bit iffy right now is the steering.  It really should be high-steer.  He converted his over using ZJ parts I believe.  I'm still running stock.  I get some wicked bumpsteer when braking fast.  The only time it becomes an issue is when at high speeds braking in a straight line requires even pressure so as not to disrupt the front too much.  Otherwise, you'll be snaking down your lane as you brake then release, brake and release.  Though, it's not that big of an issue once you get used to it and drive accordingly.

Depending on what axles I choose when I eventually upgrade, I might be forced to go back to SUA up front again.  That will be really interesting though.  I haven't driven on stock leafs since '93.

I have thought about a three link up front with coil-overs as well too.  Coil-overs up front and maybe a SOA in the back.  A friend of mine used to run that way on his TJ.  He was one of the first to go leafs in the back.  He first went coils up front and SUA in the back then switched it to coil-overs and SOA which is how it is today.

Honestly though, it's trail worthy as is.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jesse-James on April 15, 2008, 04:25:12 PM
Good to hear, I have a set of RE 4" leaves and a set of stock leaves off a 94 sahara with 60k miles (not sagged in the slightest) along with 1" lift shackles if necessary at either end. Will play with the height and see what happens. As far as steering we're doing a bent and gusseted draglink. The work starts next week. Good to hear there's no real regrets. (other than steering)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 15, 2008, 04:40:53 PM
Good to hear, I have a set of RE 4" leaves and a set of stock leaves off a 94 sahara with 60k miles (not sagged in the slightest) along with 1" lift shackles if necessary at either end. Will play with the height and see what happens. As far as steering we're doing a bent and gusseted draglink. The work starts next week. Good to hear there's no real regrets. (other than steering)

I recommend using the rear leafs for the front.  I don't like the idea of bending my drag-link.  If you use RE's offset perches you won't have to touch it , you need to do a dropped pitman arm as well.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jesse-James on April 16, 2008, 01:35:42 AM
Will be using the rear leaves for the front. As far as the bent draglink let's not start that discussion here, it'll probably be lengthy.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 16, 2008, 10:14:36 AM
Well, if you use the RE offset perches and a dropped pitman arm it will clear.  We've run this same setup on a few different Jeeps.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 20, 2009, 07:42:21 PM
Hmm, it's been a while since I've updated this.  Well not much new to report other then with the ehavy rain we recieved a months ago, I found that my Jeep yet again leaks.  I've got a good idea where it's leaking form since I've torn the dash apart several times already.  In any case, while removing the carpet (yes, my Jeep still has carpet in it.) I had to remove the center console which is bolted to the floor.  Since I had to crawl under the Jeep to get to the bolts, I used that time to grease the driveshafts.

Found that my transfer case had been leaking a bit form the lower bung so I checked the level and tightened the bungs.

Ended up vacuuming the interior several times since  was originally just going to clean the footwells but then after the carpet was out it covered the floor in more crap.   Also, since I had to remove the console, I ahd to remove my 2M and CM radios.  While I was removing them I ended up fixing the harness so it's a lot cleaner.  I still don't like how it's running down the center but that's how is is.

Now I'm thinking that with the console out I might consider moving it further back.  I had installed it pre the instructions but it puts it pretty close to the shifter.  The front of it lines up with the front of the seats.  When I had the Tcase shims in I could press the shifter knob against the leading edge of the console.  So now I'm going to see if I can move it back several inches so there is more room upfront.  Maybe I'll even have enough room for front cup holders!

The other problem I have is that there are holes in the floor.  I've got to see about filling them in.  No welder so it's either JB Weld or body sealer.  I think I'll look for the body sealer since you can paint over that stuff.  I'm not sure about the JB weld.  I've also noticed that the three holes are like vents.  There is a strong stream of air enter the Jeep at speed.  Problem is, it smells like exhaust a bit when idling at a stop...

One I get the console back in I'll be able to get back on track and find the leak.  That will mean pulling the dash apart.  Luckily, I think it's in the center area.  I'm betting it's not the cowl seal but rather the cowl seam that is leaking again.  I don't know why the cowl is spot welded and then the seam is filled with seam sealer and then they paint the body.  I would have thought they would have stamped the cowl and welded the seam but no.  That would be too logical.  A Jeep must leak when old...

[img width= height=]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/ScRNwB1J8sI/AAAAAAAAFKQ/k2C-9QNg_zk/s800/DSC_0011-11.jpg[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zPql6_v4Ex4-dK-UIOnC6g?authkey=Gv1sRgCOf_tejc4Kn_pQE&feat=embedwebsite)[img width= height=]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/ScRNwVm3BqI/AAAAAAAAFKY/8PzRykDTODc/s800/DSC_0012-12.jpg[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/E42GhSIpbeaQdwouz7rqew?authkey=Gv1sRgCOf_tejc4Kn_pQE&feat=embedwebsite)[img width= height=]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/ScRNv6MlXVI/AAAAAAAAFKI/zW3Rjq5IjkA/s800/DSC_0010-10.jpg[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/LIIdgu3roTB9SvFkeZs-Kw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOf_tejc4Kn_pQE&feat=embedwebsite)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on March 21, 2009, 12:56:27 PM
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=11&subid=49&plid=159

Saw this at Lowes today. Should work. Also looked at the JB. Did not say if it was paintable or not, I would imagine it is. You could do a small sample on something else and see if it takes paint. But the Loctite stuff says it's paintable.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jesse-James on March 21, 2009, 02:05:45 PM
Damn you have a clean interior.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 21, 2009, 04:20:48 PM
Damn you have a clean interior.
I've had the luxury to have to clean it out several times before.  Back when I was in Hawaii the trails were really fine dust and it covered the back of my dash as well as the interior.  Cleaned that up when I tore apart the dash the second time.  I don't do mud so only dust gets in.  Occasionally water as well...  Before I took the pict I had cleaned most of the dust that had accumulated inside.

BTW: I went cheap and 'patched' the holes with RTV Black.  Drove it in the freeway and they didn't blow out so I think it's OK.  (I'll clean them up later and use body sealer later on.) Echo's a lot more then it used to that's for sure.  It's like driving a track car with all of the rattles now.  Actually, it reminds me of when I first got the Jeep.  It had no interior what so ever.

Oh and of course, since I didn't get to the dash today, it's started to rain.  If it doesn't rain hard, I don't think it will leak though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 22, 2009, 01:48:42 PM
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=11&subid=49&plid=159

Saw this at Lowes today. Should work. Also looked at the JB. Did not say if it was paintable or not, I would imagine it is. You could do a small sample on something else and see if it takes paint. But the Loctite stuff says it's paintable.
Hmm, I'll have check it out.  I was at OSH getting new rubber washers and checked out the caulk isle but didn't bother looking at the adhesive isle.  The Epoxy would probably have been better since it's hard.  I have some Quik JB Weld and well as the regular stuff.  I figured that if I had to, I could remove the RTV easier then JB weld if I had to redo it.

Oh and it rained hard last night so I checked the Jeep and found water on the floor.  Not as much as before but it was still there.  I think it's leaking past the door seal since there was on the pass. side only and near the door.  Not sure what I'll do since the rain season is almost over and with the carpet out I can clean it up easily.  Seems like it was only yesterday that I had the top off.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on March 22, 2009, 02:51:21 PM
To find your leaks sit inside with a flash light and have somebody hose the Jeep down with a garden hose, is about the best way to find leaks


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 22, 2009, 05:03:31 PM
To find your leaks sit inside with a flash light and have somebody hose the Jeep down with a garden hose, is about the best way to find leaks
I'm about 99.9% sure of where it's coming from.  I'm 100% sure it's not the cowl or dash which only leaves the upper door seals.  Between the high winds and heavy rain, there isn't time to check.  That will be for a later date.  I still need to put my console back in as well.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on March 23, 2009, 08:19:06 AM
Good luck with the leaks.  Mine also leaks and it seems to be the door seals as well.  I sealed some of the cowl seams with a clear latex product for bathrooms.  It turns kind of beige with age but is not very noticeable against my Jeep's color.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 23, 2009, 11:19:58 AM
Good luck with the leaks.  Mine also leaks and it seems to be the door seals as well.  I sealed some of the cowl seams with a clear latex product for bathrooms.  It turns kind of beige with age but is not very noticeable against my Jeep's color.
Yeah, I sealed my 'dash' with silicone when I replaced it years ago.  It's not leaking for sure.  I still need to get that write up posted.  All of the pictures are really small since it was done in the 90's on a digital camera.  I'm not sure why it's leaking under heavy rain though.  The lip on the windshield is pretty much non existant though.  I'm thinking it's leaking where it transitions between the windshield frame and body though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 25, 2009, 02:53:36 PM
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/ScqnWC1M1qI/AAAAAAAAFNI/0Q5R_GuBo40/s512/DSC_0002-2-2.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on March 25, 2009, 07:02:30 PM
Looks like it won't rain today  :wave:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 25, 2009, 08:57:54 PM
Ok, so I've got all the pictures up and the interior back together to some extent, I left the carpet out since I want to check for leaks later. It will need to be torn back down so I can set the box again anyway.  With a project like this you learn a few things while doing it.  I learned, no matter how much you measure, it doesn't matter if the box is center or not.  The reason being, the floor is asymmetrical.  The transmission hump has a drive-side bias of a inch or so.  This is a problem when you have to mount something to the hump and want it centered.  Move too far off the arch and the box will be leaning to one side.  So I moved the box 1/2" off center.  Problem #2, it still doesn't matter since the seats aren't symmetrical either.  I moved my seats outboard as far as I can.  The Mastercraft Rubicons are 2" wider which is a problem when you're trying to fit a 7.5" console down the center.  With stock seats, it's not an issue.  With wider seats you have to play a little game.  Not only do you have to mount then outboard but you also have to make sure they don't hit the door panels, especially if you have 1/2 doors which have a fat panel.  When I got everything back together, I found that the box is too far over to one side making it a tight squeeze past the seats frame, let alone the upholstery.  Luckily, I get to unbolt it to run all of the wires and two antenna's into the box for my 2M and CB.

While I was taking the console out I decided I might as well take the seats out since they are really easy to remove.  There are no sliders so that's why they aren't pictured.  The seats are fixed to the pedestals and the seats do not recline.  Perfect for driving seats.  Not so prefect if you want to get in and out or relax in the seat.  The other problem is that since they are fixed to one position, you have to try then adjust the seats position which requires unbolting then several times.  After having them for years, I wanted to move then forward as they were a bit too far back with the raised seat pad under the knees.  They're comfortable but you end up having to sit a bit closer then you normally would.  I've been driving for several years with the seat out of position which was a bit of a pain.  So now it's fixed.  I also moved the passenger sear back.  Before I had the two seas symmetrical since it looked nicer.  Now I've through that to the wind.  I'd rather be able to see out the passenger side without having to look through my passenger.  So really one project led to the next till, I had 4 micro projects going on at the same time!

Oh and the reason for moving the console was to give me front cup holders!  It was a royal PITA to reach over the seat and put bottles of water or a cup in the rear mounted cup holder.  Driving and having to reach back was a pain as well.  The cup holder was actually supposed to bolt to the main box and not on the basket on the front.  I wanted to move the cup holder as far forward since cups have gotten rather large and I wanted it to clear not only the box but the shifter as well.

[img width= height=]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/ScrzNmZN_0I/AAAAAAAAFNo/SF-4krBoXKQ/s400/DSC_0001-1.jpg[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TVmCn6QLWGsuZB4O9Ahf5g?authkey=Gv1sRgCOf_tejc4Kn_pQE&feat=embedwebsite)[img width= height=]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/ScrzOD6OEMI/AAAAAAAAFOA/CPy-HAxORmk/s400/DSC_0005-5.jpg[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8LZmT8O2bd9MWc6w1xCQCg?authkey=Gv1sRgCOf_tejc4Kn_pQE&feat=embedwebsite)[img width= height=]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/ScrzOaxV31I/AAAAAAAAFOI/axXbWORofeE/s400/DSC_0008-8.jpg[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/kJDpu1GdfGBJeI9SeqwCng?authkey=Gv1sRgCOf_tejc4Kn_pQE&feat=embedwebsite)

[img width= height=]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/ScrzN2h7cHI/AAAAAAAAFNw/Y3itM5ylbkI/s400/DSC_0003-3.jpg[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/MYkcdFFMe5qb8YdrGbyYkQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCOf_tejc4Kn_pQE&feat=embedwebsite)[img width= height=]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/ScrzN8tqPJI/AAAAAAAAFN4/UTKA3do5VUM/s400/DSC_0004-4.jpg[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ZlUtZfNyDPo8B4pJPlzMeA?authkey=Gv1sRgCOf_tejc4Kn_pQE&feat=embedwebsite)

[img width= height=]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/Scr56273mNI/AAAAAAAAFOQ/FLN8OGnWFNw/s400/DSC_0001-1-2.jpg[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5Z9_39CMAhg2Dc4KQGbnMg?authkey=Gv1sRgCOf_tejc4Kn_pQE&feat=embedwebsite)[img width= height=]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/Scr578hd83I/AAAAAAAAFOo/_o2McmKYESc/s400/DSC_0010-10.jpg[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Xtb3We7wxCyNhmMGjWsHNw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOf_tejc4Kn_pQE&feat=embedwebsite)
[img width= height=]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/Scr57kuwAOI/AAAAAAAAFOY/yHJ4PI6VAIs/s400/DSC_0005-5-2.jpg[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/6MivWciSHU2NlC6EzdpEew?authkey=Gv1sRgCOf_tejc4Kn_pQE&feat=embedwebsite)[img width= height=]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/Scr576LHNdI/AAAAAAAAFOg/4zT4f8-YBXg/s400/DSC_0006-6.jpg[/img] (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/yxnrC5QP3ihGPNZVIwCfDw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOf_tejc4Kn_pQE&feat=embedwebsite)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on March 25, 2009, 09:25:20 PM
Looks good. It's nice to get all those little things taken care of at once. Having the cup holders in the front wil be nice.
I don't see any fries from your happy meal on the floor :wall: That is one clean interior!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Tsd on March 28, 2009, 06:33:59 AM
Looks good! Congratulations on keeping the interior clean, mine is a horrible mess  :pirate:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: 95yjman on April 12, 2009, 09:16:07 PM
Looks good, I like the seats.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Sine Deviance on June 16, 2009, 10:19:08 PM
It's kinda late, but ... Very nice YJ. I love the special green color you have on yours. I am happy with my metallic green Rio Grande color scheme but if I had to pick from the two at the beginning I would have picked yours.

Just a note, you can definitely paint JB weld. In fact, it pretty much has the same properties as Bondo. Just make sure to sand it first like you would any paint project.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on September 26, 2009, 08:44:15 PM
Well, last weekend I played around with my intake setup.  I went back to the stock box a few years ago and liked the low-end torque.  I haven't played around with it too much but decided to as I was also replacing the serpentine belt that was set up wrong.

Before doing any changes;  My torque band was pretty good but ran out of torque as it went over 3000RPM and was flat at 4000 RPM.  It would rev to 25-2700RPM then you'd get a lump og torque and it would peter out by 4K.  I kept this setup for a few years.  Actually, years ago I had a custom tube and a K&N filter and I didn't like how the low end, or should I say the lack of it.  Now, I was toying with the stock setup again.  All I did was remove the air horn off the front of the box.  So far I like it.  The lump is gone.  It's a bit flatter but there is a noticeable increase in torque higher up.  The engine is able to freely rev up to 4000RPM and doesn't seem as winded as it goes past.  The difference is really noticeable when I have to race up a hill at 40-50mph.

I'm not sure if I'll try removing the venturi again.  Maybe I will, just to see what changes.  I don't want to raise the torque band too high or else I will lose some low-end.  It took a week for the computer to readjust to the new setup.  So far I like it though.

This is definitely a YMMV situation since I'm probably able to take advantage of the extra air.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Sidscan on October 02, 2009, 02:36:52 PM
I'm still playing back and forth with the CAI and the stock.  I do notice that he CAI work real well when the temp stay below 65 or when it is raining out.  In warmer temps the stock works better.  Can't seem to get the perfect balance.  As it's getting colder here in the PNW I have switched back tot he CAI and everything shifts better than stock.  Must be something to do with the air density.  :puzzled:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on October 02, 2009, 04:43:31 PM
I'm still playing back and forth with the CAI and the stock.  I do notice that he CAI work real well when the temp stay below 65 or when it is raining out.  In warmer temps the stock works better.  Can't seem to get the perfect balance.  As it's getting colder here in the PNW I have switched back tot he CAI and everything shifts better than stock.  Must be something to do with the air density.  :puzzled:

where is your CAI getting it's air from (is it shielded from the engine bay)?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on October 02, 2009, 05:14:15 PM
Most CAI aren't designed very well.  Most are just a 90* bent with length of straight tube and the filter slapped onto the end.  The filter needs to be located in an area that is away from the engine heat.  Direct airflow would be even better.  Most don't take into account the changes in the torque band either.  Stuff like pulse-wave is ignored for the most part as well.  You can tune the power band a bit by tuning the intake to set the band where you want it.  This will be different depending on how you have your engine set up.

I think the most flexible is a snorkel.  It's sealed from engine heat and draws it's air from outside.  I'm not sure how the torque-band will change though.  Although, you could do some customizing to adjust it a bit.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on October 13, 2009, 07:53:42 PM
Whooohoo!  First big rain of the season and here's what I find.  Basically ALL of the wiring behind the dash was wet and dripping.  Water was dripping off the gauges as well.  Still, the Jeep started up without any complaints and everything worked.   :clap:  There was about 2" of standing water till I knocked out the body plugs.  I'm pretty sure it's the cowl seal since it's leaking everywhere...

I finally got around to make a new switch panel.  The old one was looking pretty bad with multiple holes.  Basically it's a plastic sticker that is applied to a frame behind it.  When using small switches the plastic flexes and tears over time.  The first two switches are ON/OFF for the FAN and the OBA.  The second is a momentary ON/OFF/ON for the winch and the last is a ON/OFF/ON for the aux lights.  I might change it so there is an ON/OFF switch for the winch someplace.  The panel is 16 gauge or maybe 18 gauge steel, I don't remember exactly and is applied to the frame with 3M molding adhesive tape.  Oh and yes, you can easily tell when the fan is on as the alternator does whine a bit more.

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/StU4zwhVSlI/AAAAAAAAKLA/aosVB3xs2LQ/s800/DSC_0025.jpg)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/StU40nGXHII/AAAAAAAAKLE/NHQ96F41rb0/s800/DSC_0026.jpg)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/StU41H3EBaI/AAAAAAAAKLI/m4lJFQS5MZg/s800/DSC_0027.jpg)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/StU42r4RONI/AAAAAAAAKLQ/J-1njsEjMxY/s800/DSC_0029.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on October 15, 2009, 09:05:41 AM
Switch panel looks nice.
Did you have the carpets in? That is alot of water.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on October 15, 2009, 12:16:29 PM
Switch panel looks nice.
Did you have the carpets in? That is alot of water.
Just floormats since it leaked earlier in the year but not nearly this bad.  That's why I tore out the interior the first time.  That's not all of the water, either.  The mats sucked up about half of it.  At least I got it cleaned up before it could start smelling.

I'm still wondering if I want to put a interrupt switch on the winch or not and where to put it.  I can make a new panel which isn't a big deal but I'm wondering if I should put the switch at the solenoid box so I don't get complacent and just use the winch from the seat.  Maybe I'll just move the winch switch down and put another clicker switch above it.  I still need to dig out the wiring diagrams that you sent me a while back.

BTW: the way to make the panel is to pull off the sticker and use that as a template.  There are two tabs on the sticker that are used to center it but you can leave those out when cutting the metal.  I was going to replace the whole frame with a new metal one but that would have taken more time and it would have looked exactly the same.  Not to mention, if I wanted to change it I would of had to make a new one all over again.  This way, I can replace them easily.

Oh and I just bought a new cowl seal AND a Flex-a-lite fan controller so hopefully, I'll have them installed before it rains again.  I went with a cheap one since I didn't want to spend $150 and have to rewire what I already had.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: subsonic on February 10, 2010, 05:32:27 PM
Nice YJ.

I have been through so many vehicles that I think it is neat that you have held onto this jeep for so long.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on February 11, 2010, 11:37:36 AM
Nice YJ.

I have been through so many vehicles that I think it is neat that you have held onto this jeep for so long.
Thanks!  I sometimes wish I could sell it to get something else though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on February 11, 2010, 11:56:17 AM
Thanks!  I sometimes wish I could sell it to get something else though.

now why would you say something crazy like that  :nono:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: 95yjman on March 04, 2010, 05:23:02 PM
I still can't believe that you daily drive this thing, not that there is anything wrong with it.  I could daily drive mine if I didn't have the cherokee...rock on though man :thumb:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 04, 2010, 06:00:52 PM
Every day since I bought it.  Although for the first few years I put very few miles on it.  It turned over 60K a few months back.

I can tell you this though, having it as your only mode of transportation really dictates what you can and can't do.  You have to plan out everything ahead of time so you're not extending your downtime unnecessarily.  You also can't build it too big.  I'd say 35's are the limit for a daily driver as things get bigger the cons outweigh the gains.

Things on the two do list.  New axles, new wheels, and new transfer case.  Maybe a new transmission as well.  Otherwise, I'd what I can tinker with.

Because of this, projects like the 4.0L TB conversion, fuel injectors and other cheap projects are brought about.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: 95yjman on March 04, 2010, 06:50:32 PM
What Transfer case, and tranny are you thinking about running?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 04, 2010, 07:22:51 PM
What Transfer case, and tranny are you thinking about running?
I would like an Atlas 3-speed maybe with a NV4500.  That would set me up nicely for an engine swap at a later date...  or not.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: 95yjman on March 04, 2010, 07:48:59 PM
what motor would you swap in?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 04, 2010, 09:15:18 PM
what motor would you swap in?
I would like a diesel but that may or may not be possible.  I've still got to look at my choices.  Might be able to do a Merc 3.0L diesel but I'm not certain.  A 4.0L would be a simple swap and I would be able to reuse a lot of the parts off my 2.5L.  That would actually be the easiest way to go since it has to be checked by a DOT referee.  Next choice would be a 5.7L or a 5.3L.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on March 05, 2010, 07:21:57 AM
I would go straight for the Hemi...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Mozman68 on March 05, 2010, 08:10:03 AM
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/LS3-62L-CrateEngine-19211709-P1897C2.aspx


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on March 05, 2010, 08:59:10 AM
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/LS3-62L-CrateEngine-19211709-P1897C2.aspx

I like everything bu the price...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 05, 2010, 01:13:51 PM
I would go straight for the Hemi...
Hemi's going to be complicated and everything will have to be fabricated for it to fit.  No off the shelf parts for swaps here.  You would have to have the computer programmed and a gauge cluster compatible to use the multi-displacement stuff.

And a LS3 would be nice but again they aren't turn-key.  If I was going to a V8 I would probably choose a 5.7L LO5 TBI or a 5.3L MPFI.  The LO5 would be a lot easier since it's a common swap and harnesses are readily available.  The engine is pretty much a carb'ed engine with EFI added to it so it's simple and reliable.  Problem is finding one with low miles or else buy a crate replacement engine.  They are OBDI so less emissions to worry about as well.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: dwtaylorpdx on March 05, 2010, 08:12:28 PM
Ramjet 350, complete EFI motor turnkey, only prob is its for 1981 and older only last I checked.... :(

Dave


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 05, 2010, 08:29:49 PM
Ramjet 350, complete EFI motor turnkey, only prob is its for 1981 and older only last I checked.... :(

Dave
Yup, too big and too old.  I really like the LO5's though.  They were used from the 80's till 1996.  Pre-vortec heads even though they called it a Vortec.  Bulletproof engine otherwise.

The other problem to consider or worry about is dual-exhaust on late model OBD2 vehicles as they run multiple cats and for an engine swap you need to run ALL of the cats.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on March 05, 2010, 08:34:34 PM
why not an I6 stroker with a perf cam - heard they can get pretty wild HP and torque out of those

x2 on the Merc diesel though


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 05, 2010, 08:36:56 PM
why not an I6 stroker with a perf cam - heard they can get pretty wild HP and torque out of those

x2 on the Merc diesel though
The engine will need to pass an emission test so getting too outside of the box isn't a good idea.  If I really wanted more power then a 4.0L then I'd go with a V8 for simplicity.

I'm not sure how late model the Merc 300's went,  I think into the early 90's but I'm not 100% positive.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on March 05, 2010, 08:40:08 PM
The engine will need to pass an emission test so getting too outside of the box isn't a good idea.  If I really wanted more power then a 4.0L then I'd go with a V8 for simplicity.

I'm not sure how late model the Merc 300's went,  I think into the early 90's but I'm not 100% positive.

Just thinking that would pass emissions as you can def use the I6 MPFI with little mods on yours - should pass no prob.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 05, 2010, 09:05:53 PM
I'm sure if you kept it around 4.6L-4.7L it would pass OK.  But if you're going to go through the trouble to rebuild the 4.0L then why not just go with a stock V8? and have more HP and TQ without having to mix and match at all?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on March 05, 2010, 09:40:31 PM
I'm sure if you kept it around 4.6L-4.7L it would pass OK.  But if you're going to go through the trouble to rebuild the 4.0L then why not just go with a stock V8? and have more HP and TQ without having to mix and match at all?

one reason i would think of is the engine weight (i assume the I6 would be slightly lighter)
the other one would be the MPFI available for plug in (no guess work there)
transmission, exhaust, accessories - same deal, bolt on replacements and no extra work.

with the Hesco cam they make around 260HP and 330 torque out of 280 cid which is pretty good.

i'd say that considering the torque they're close to a 350 cid V8 but with less power

some numbers i found ( http://www.ajeepthing.com/stroker-motor.html )

4.5L "Poor man's" simple stroker

~ Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
~ Jeep 4.2L 5.875" rods
~ Speed Pro 677P standard bore pistons
~ 9.05:1 CR
~ Stock 4.0 HO camshaft
~ Stock HO cylinder head
~ Stock 0.051" head gasket
~ 0.097" quench height
~ 2.25" exhaust
~ Ford 24lb/hr injectors with stock 39psi FPR for '87-'95 engines, stock injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines
226hp @ 4600rpm, 304lbft @ 2000rpm

4.6L Low-buck, low CR "rockcrawler"

~ Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
~ Jeep 4.2L 5.875" rods
~ Keith-Black Silvolite UEM-2229 +0.030" bore pistons
~ Increase piston dish volume to 30cc
8.8:1 CR
~ Crane #750501 192/204 degree camshaft
~ Ported HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head
~ Mill block deck 0.035"
~ Mopar Performance 0.043" head gasket
~ 0.058" quench height
~ 2.25" exhaust
~ Ford 24lb/hr injectors with stock 39psi FPR for '87-'95 engines, stock injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines
~ 231hp @ 4400rpm, 327lbft @ 2000rpm

 
 
4.5L Low-buck simple stroker

~ Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
~ Jeep 4.2L 5.875" rods
~ Jeep 4.0L 3.875" standard bore pistons
9.7:1 CR
~ CompCams #68-231-4 206/214 degree camshaft
~ Ported HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head
~ Stock 0.051" head gasket
~ 0.081" quench height
~ Ford 24lb/hr injectors with adjustable FPR or MAP adjuster for '87-'95 engines, Ford 24lb/hr injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines
~ 260hp @ 4850rpm, 321lbft @ 3500rpm
 
 
4.5L "Poor man's" simple stroker

~ Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
~ Jeep 4.2L 5.875" rods
~ Speed Pro 677P standard bore pistons
~ 9.05:1 CR
~ Stock 4.0 HO camshaft
~ Stock HO cylinder head
~ Stock 0.051" head gasket
~ 0.097" quench height
~ 2.25" exhaust
~ Ford 24lb/hr injectors with stock 39psi FPR for '87-'95 engines, stock injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines
226hp @ 4600rpm, 304lbft @ 2000rpm

4.6L Low-buck, low CR "rockcrawler"

~ Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
~ Jeep 4.2L 5.875" rods
~ Keith-Black Silvolite UEM-2229 +0.030" bore pistons
~ Increase piston dish volume to 30cc
8.8:1 CR
~ Crane #750501 192/204 degree camshaft
~ Ported HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head
~ Mill block deck 0.035"
~ Mopar Performance 0.043" head gasket
~ 0.058" quench height
~ 2.25" exhaust
~ Ford 24lb/hr injectors with stock 39psi FPR for '87-'95 engines, stock injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines
~ 231hp @ 4400rpm, 327lbft @ 2000rpm

 
 
4.5L Low-buck simple stroker

~ Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
~ Jeep 4.2L 5.875" rods
~ Jeep 4.0L 3.875" standard bore pistons
9.7:1 CR
~ CompCams #68-231-4 206/214 degree camshaft
~ Ported HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head
~ Stock 0.051" head gasket
~ 0.081" quench height
~ Ford 24lb/hr injectors with adjustable FPR or MAP adjuster for '87-'95 engines, Ford 24lb/hr injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines
~ 260hp @ 4850rpm, 321lbft @ 3500rpm
 

4.7L medium-buck stroker

~ Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
~ Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods
~ Custom +0.060" bore pistons with 1.38" pin height & 25cc dish
~ 9.6:1 CR
~ Crane #753905 204/216 degree camshaft
~ Ported big valve 2.02"/1.60" cylinder head
~ Mopar Performance 0.043" head gasket
~ 0.043" quench height
~ Flometrics F&B 68mm billet TB
~ Accel 26lb/hr injectors with adjustable FPR or MAP adjuster for '87-'95 engines, Accel 26lb/hr injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines.
~ 270hp @ 4800rpm, 335lbft @ 3400rpm

4.8L medium-buck stroker

Option 1: Same as above except:
~ Custom 4.0" bore pistons with 1.38" pin height & 24cc dish
~ 10.0:1 CR
~ CompCams #68-235-4 210/218 degree camshaft
~ 284hp @ 4900rpm, 345lbft @ 3600rpm


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: stan98tj on March 05, 2010, 10:15:27 PM
how difficult would a diesel swap be? any way to get ur hands on the diesel motor jeep provided for the european market? you could benefit from the torque and increased mpgs


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 05, 2010, 10:51:46 PM
one reason i would think of is the engine weight (i assume the I6 would be slightly lighter)
the other one would be the MPFI available for plug in (no guess work there)
transmission, exhaust, accessories - same deal, bolt on replacements and no extra work.

with the Hesco cam they make around 260HP and 330 torque out of 280 cid which is pretty good.

i'd say that considering the torque they're close to a 350 cid V8 but with less power

some numbers i found ( http://www.ajeepthing.com/stroker-motor.html )
A 4.0L weighs in around 515lbs.  A LO5 comes in around 550lbs and a Vortec comes in around 470lbs (Aluminum Heads).  An LS1 would be 407lbs (Aluminum Heads and Block).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 05, 2010, 10:52:44 PM
how difficult would a diesel swap be? any way to get ur hands on the diesel motor jeep provided for the european market? you could benefit from the torque and increased mpgs
Euro Market engines were never DOT certified so that would be a no.  Not to mention, it would be a VM which weren't the best.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on March 05, 2010, 10:57:22 PM
A 4.0L weighs in around 515lbs.  A LO5 comes in around 550lbs and a Vortec comes in around 470lbs (Aluminum Heads).  An LS1 would be 407lbs (Aluminum Heads and Block).

i guess i was wrong about that


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: dwtaylorpdx on March 06, 2010, 12:06:57 AM
It a bit of a crapshoot, I've had 3 blocks all the same year chev 350 on a scale and there was 30 lbs difference in them...

You can also pay a good shop ti CNC the block which significantly lightens the block.

Dave


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: 95yjman on March 06, 2010, 07:49:04 PM
Ya the 4 liter is a pig to say the least!  :biggrin:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: YJmechanic on March 23, 2010, 11:27:26 PM
4.0 isnt worth the effort to swap in,  look at the power i got out of my 2.5,  most of the 4.0(except the over board 4.7 builds) only get 20-30 more hp than my 2.5,  thats not worth the effort to me.  you could put a modern v8 in and get those numbers stock.  i think you should do what i always thought about and get a wrecked 2.5t subie and pop that in(remember i was getting 500hp out of mine) and i trust that motor more than any other(believe me i punished that motor severely and no problems) but that is just my overboard weird no body does it idea.  i know you really wouldnt want that hassle.  i would just go with a more modern v8


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 25, 2010, 12:55:23 PM
4.0 isnt worth the effort to swap in,  look at the power i got out of my 2.5,  most of the 4.0(except the over board 4.7 builds) only get 20-30 more hp than my 2.5,  thats not worth the effort to me.  you could put a modern v8 in and get those numbers stock.  i think you should do what i always thought about and get a wrecked 2.5t subie and pop that in(remember i was getting 500hp out of mine) and i trust that motor more than any other(believe me i punished that motor severely and no problems) but that is just my overboard weird no body does it idea.  i know you really wouldnt want that hassle.  i would just go with a more modern v8

Well, yes and no.  Remember I'm in a state that regulates emissions so I can't do anything too extreme.  Like I said before a 4.0L would be the easiest way to go as it's pretty much plug and play which means using all OEM parts and not having to fabricate anything which the DOT frowns on.  4.0L swaps are fairly easy to get signed off on.  DOT issues you a new VIN for your vehicle.  Doing a V8 isn't too bad with all of the aftermarket parts BUT you have to stick with stock OR CARB certified parts if you want to get signed off.  Also, what complicates it a bit more is that the PCM needs to be for whatever transmission I choose, which means if I want a MT, I'm going to have to search harder and most are Auto.  I'll also have to make sure the engine isn't choked off by a bunch of cats and pre-cats.  This is a problem on some modern engines that were dual-exhaust as you have to run ALL of the pre-cats and cats.  That could be up to 6 that you have to fit in there somehow.

A few friends of mine did CA legal engines swaps.  The most recent was a 4.0L in a TJ.  The other guy did a 5.9L from a Dodge.  The Dodge was more of a headache since he had trouble getting the down pipe signed off as it was fabricated to fit the custom app.  Both passed and were signed off though.

I hate dealing with emission testing though.  Every time I change something engine wise, I have to worry about not passing for some stupid reason.  This time, I'll have to worry about the FPS and I have to replace my Cat which lost the forward monolith.  The state keeps a record of your fails, too.

500Hp from a wrx engine is all well and good BUT it won't pass a visual or emissions check.  I'm not worried about HP so much.  I want the higher torque rating.  I can live with 100hp if I can have +250lbs-ft torque.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: YJmechanic on March 26, 2010, 09:41:21 AM
wow i always forget how CA is on the emissions and i was just joking about the subie engine,  but i think by your laws taking a 95 4cyl out and putting in a 03 4 cyl should be ok,  but again i was just jokin anyway,  curious to see what you come up with though.  you know 525 performance has a 5.0 stroker kit now that i heard is much easier to deal with than the 4.7's were


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 27, 2010, 05:09:42 PM
Well, I just got back from picking up the CJ-7 hood and grill.  Looks like the Jeep was brown originally.  It's white now.  It's got some rust on the inside but otherwise looks good.  I should be able to clean it up nicely.  Not sure if I'll paint it black or go OD green or paint it the factory color.  I might just do it black for an under coat then decide later to paint it factory later.

Seem the guy who sold it was going to do an engine swap and register his YJ as a CJ.  Not sure how he's manage that, I guess he'd say he put the YJ body and frame to replace the CJ then do an engine swap.  He got cold feet and decided on doing a legal engine swap so he didn't need the hood and grill.  The grill is complete.  The hood has the windshield supports but not the hood tie down.  It's still pretty complete though.

After taking it off the Jeep I noticed some things that I hadn't before.  Someone cut it to use on a YJ before.  It's been notched for the PS pump lines.  Also someone welded bungs to the frame with 1" spacers which looks like it's for a YJ radiator.  I'm not really wanting to use the mount since they move the radiator even further back then normally.  I'm thinking I'll pick up a 2-core Aluminum CJ radiator and maybe some TJ hood latches since I have to drill new holes for the latches anyway.  I might go with CJ fenders if I can find some.

(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/S66cyG4NzDI/AAAAAAAANC0/yLPlVVs3kDg/s720/DSC_0025.jpg)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/S66cuKNtTTI/AAAAAAAANCM/R4Jgxkd49Xo/s720/DSC_0036.jpg)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/S66cwcyqDaI/AAAAAAAANCk/MhAqNl0qSW8/s720/DSC_0029.jpg)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/S66cukf6inI/AAAAAAAANCU/gCqwIb9Zsyo/s720/DSC_0034.jpg)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/S66cuYXak4I/AAAAAAAANCQ/MpP4ccT8xsA/s720/DSC_0035.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on March 27, 2010, 06:35:14 PM
sweet, can't wait to see how it turns out. I am really curious how will it look like with the YJ fenders - if it turns out good i might be on the lookup for the same thing


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 27, 2010, 08:17:44 PM
sweet, can't wait to see how it turns out. I am really curious how will it look like with the YJ fenders - if it turns out good i might be on the lookup for the same thing
Here's a YJ with a CJ clip and YJ fenders.  You can tell they are YJ since the fenders are very square.

(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/bumper%20pics/100_1121.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on March 27, 2010, 08:47:46 PM
not bad at all, i kinda like it better with YJ fenders


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: 95yjman on March 27, 2010, 09:20:41 PM
You can't de-YJ it jeffy!! I too have a CJ grill sitting in the garage but I just can't bring myself to do it for some reason.  :'(


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 27, 2010, 10:13:42 PM
You can't de-YJ it jeffy!! I too have a CJ grill sitting in the garage but I just can't bring myself to do it for some reason.  :'(
Well, I'm going to keep my YJ grill and hood.  I'd like to mount them in the garage or maybe above my computer desk?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 27, 2010, 10:14:45 PM
not bad at all, i kinda like it better with YJ fenders
The YJ fenders allow you to use YJ and TJ flares without having to deal with the rib in the CJ fender which is nice.  You have to drill 3 holes for the grill and drill another hole for the hood latch since the CJ's latch is further forward then on the YJ.  Using the CJ fenders does give you more room for the tire to swing back, if you have a shackle reversal...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jesse-James on March 28, 2010, 01:41:37 AM
Not a fan of the YJ fenders with it, but you're right it does make flare selection a lot easier. Just looks out of place.

Can't wait to see this begin.  :thumb:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: 95yjman on March 28, 2010, 07:34:34 AM
Well, I'm going to keep my YJ grill and hood.  I'd like to mount them in the garage or maybe above my computer desk?

Are you gonna leave the lights in it?  I wonder if there is a way to make it light up but not as bright as the actual headlights...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: OH-YJ on March 28, 2010, 08:58:29 AM
I really like the look of the CJ clip with YJ fenders. Its just too bad you'll be getting rid of the sage green.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jesse-James on March 28, 2010, 09:43:46 AM
Are you gonna leave the lights in it?  I wonder if there is a way to make it light up but not as bright as the actual headlights...

There's a guy around here that has a CJ grill above his garage door. Hooked a motion light up with the bulb sockets on the headlight openings. Looks cool.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 28, 2010, 10:48:54 AM
I really like the look of the CJ clip with YJ fenders. Its just too bad you'll be getting rid of the sage green.
I'll be painting it the same color eventually.  I'm going to wire brush the CJ stuff then paint black for an undercoat and treat any rust I can't get to.  Wish I had access to a media blaster booth to remove all of the paint.  The white is pretty thick.  I'll then eventually paint with the Factory color.  The only thing I'll have to look into is getting the matching sticker.

BTW: the paint is pretty bad on my hood.  If you look above the pin striping you can see ghost letters which I removed years ago.  It reads ONBOARDAIR.COM.  There is also a 2ft long 'key' scratch across that area from back in '97 when someone decided it needed an additional stripe.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on March 28, 2010, 10:57:08 AM
Call around to see what sandblasting the hood and grill would be.
How hard is it to remove the dent from the hood?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 28, 2010, 11:22:09 AM
Call around to see what sandblasting the hood and grill would be.
How hard is it to remove the dent from the hood?
The dent is right on the fold  I might be able to take it out some.  It's been years since I've done real body work though.  I'm not too worried about it though.  I haven't checked it too closely but if it's intact then I'll probably just leave it as a base coat.  The underside is where there is some minor rust.  Typical CA non-rust that will disappear with a wire brush.  Not sure how much it would cost to blast.  I'm wanting to keep this cheap though.  $20-50, I'll have it blasted though.  I'll call when I get more parts.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: 95yjman on March 29, 2010, 05:55:56 AM
I bet thats from letting the hood slam against the windshield, my yj has one like that and it lines up perfectly when you set the hood back... :brick:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on March 29, 2010, 08:33:42 AM
I bet thats from letting the hood slam against the windshield, my yj has one like that and it lines up perfectly when you set the hood back... :brick:

It looks to me more like the hood popped open while driving.  That's how it goes all the way to the fold.  Don't ask why I know...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 29, 2010, 10:30:21 AM
Here's something I found out.  I blew a fuse for my fan and didn't notice it till I was stuck in traffic.  It was in the red but when we moved it, dropped quickly.  I would recommend to others who use a fan switch to add a light to the switch.  Then you'll know when it's actually on and not 'pretend' on.   :lol:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on March 29, 2010, 10:35:39 AM
Here's something I found out.  I blew a fuse for my fan and didn't notice it till I was stuck in traffic.  It was in the red but when we moved it, dropped quickly.  I would recommend to others who use a fan switch to add a light to the switch.  Then you'll know when it's actually on and not 'pretend' on.   :lol:

I use a lighted switch, and also use a LED indicator, which goes from green to yellow to orange to red depending on the speed the fan is turning (it's actually a 2 color LED; the combinations are of the 2 colors), and that you can get from DC Control...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: YJmechanic on March 29, 2010, 11:19:24 AM
wow that could have been bad,  i have mine on a lit switch but honestly if i move at all i could leave it off all the time


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: TrailsLessTaken on March 29, 2010, 11:51:13 AM
I have done that too while I was wheeling, went in to some deep water and forgot to turn the fan off and it blew the fuse trying to pull through the water, it took me a few to realize the fan wasnt working on low speed when the temp started creeping up, luckily it still kicked on for the highspeed


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 29, 2010, 12:59:41 PM
wow that could have been bad,  i have mine on a lit switch but honestly if i move at all i could leave it off all the time
Yeah, for the most part, I can drive with the fan off since it's cool enough still.  Once I get moving it will cool enough that the fan will turn off normally.  It only turned on if I stop and it actually turns on fairly quickly since I have teh thermostat set low, which happens to be at a good temp.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: YJmechanic on March 29, 2010, 11:02:09 PM
i need to get mine on a thermo switch,  im still doing it the hard way everytime


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 01, 2010, 11:08:02 PM
After overheating, I'm getting fluctuation in my temps.  The needle usually sits around 197 but now it's going up to 210 then dropping back down to 195.  I think the leak at the thermostat housing is causing the weirdness in the temps as it's loosing pressure.  I bypassed the thermometer switch so it's always so I could tell if the fan wasn't kicking in when it should be it seem like it was.

I ended up ordering another Robertshaw 195 thermostat and 2 gaskets.  I'll fix the leak first then see if I need the thermostat changed out.  I still have a Robertshaw 180* and another unknown Robertshaw 195* in the garage as well.

I think then the next project is to put the horn back on the airbox and see how the low-end torque is.  I also need to seal up the adj. bolt on my FPS as per the FPS thread.

I've also been thinking about what I'm going to do with the CJ hood and grill.  Seems to be a bit of a PITA to find someone with a sand blaster cabinet large enough to put them in.  I'm not sure if I'll blast them or not yet.  Hell, I might end up having to buy a rig and do it myself but it's the big mess I'm worried about.  I've done media blasting in the past.

I've also been looking at fenders.  I'm wondering if I should get some tube fenders for the CJ grill but that really changes the look of the Jeep away from the CJ look I'm looking for.  Not to mention 99% of the tube fender conversion require stock fenders to cut up.  I might just stick with my YJ fenders to simplify the whole thing.  I still need to locate some CJ grill support rods as they too are shorter then the YJ's, need the footman loop and maybe replace the windshield supports while I'm at it.  I haven't decided if I want to use TJ hood latches, or maybe TJ Conversion latches.  The TJ Conversion latches use two bolts like the stock YJ and CJ.  The TJ latch has a single bolt.

I'll also need to get a replacement catalytic converter and a Delta Controller since my old cat is dead and I need to SMOG it this year.  Lets, see what else, I need to do a LONG awaited oil change that I was supposed to at the end of last year.  (I don't drive the Jeep that much.)

I'm sure there are a bunch of other things I'm missing like the 62mm TB, that just arrived, and maybe honing out the intake and TBS...

Oh and while I'm painting the hood, I'll probably go ahead and fix the cowl body joint that was leaking over winter again and then paint it.  I need to get some urethane or some other body sealer to do it properly.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 02, 2010, 09:33:31 AM
I say no on the tube fenders. That is not the look YOU would be happy with. I did them and kinda wish I had not. I  really do like the CJ front end. You could always use the spray on/ brush on paint removers. Just make sure you wear protective rubber gloves and a face shield. That stuff burns when it touches skin!!
On the TB spacers see if one of our vendors will swap you yours for a 62mm one.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 02, 2010, 09:39:11 AM
On the TB spacers see if one of our vendors will swap you yours for a 62mm one.

Jeffy, if you mail it over and i'll get it bored out to the size you need.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 02, 2010, 11:28:04 AM
I say no on the tube fenders. That is not the look YOU would be happy with. I did them and kinda wish I had not. I  really do like the CJ front end. You could always use the spray on/ brush on paint removers. Just make sure you wear protective rubber gloves and a face shield. That stuff burns when it touches skin!!
On the TB spacers see if one of our vendors will swap you yours for a 62mm one.
Yeah, I'm not too worried about the paint, more like the rust in those hard to reach places.

As for the TBS,  I'm going to have to hold off till I can find some time to take it out.  It's been raining on and off and I want to get the coolant temp issue fixed first.  Then I'll figure out what to do with it.  I'll probably end up mailing it to sharp though.  I'll have a better idea once it stops raining.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 08, 2010, 07:11:29 PM
New picture, nothing special...

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/S76Man4JnEI/AAAAAAAANfI/B2TFwr2zqOc/s720/DSC_0002.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: chardrc on April 08, 2010, 07:34:53 PM
WOOO 4banger sticker  :hitit:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: WranglerCOdy on April 08, 2010, 07:41:05 PM
hahaha thats awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 08, 2010, 08:53:55 PM
New picture, nothing special...

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/S76Man4JnEI/AAAAAAAANfI/B2TFwr2zqOc/s720/DSC_0002.jpg)

 :beers:

All's that is left is to have a bumper on the back. :bandit:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 08, 2010, 10:31:30 PM
:beers:

All's that is left is to have a bumper on the back. :bandit:
I'm still not sure what I'm going to do there.  I want something simple so it looks clean.  Maybe I'll just do something like on the H1's.  I also want a 2" receiver on there.  I'm planning on getting one of these for the tire.

(http://tntcustoms.com/images/products/detail/tjljtirecarrierparts.jpg)(http://tntcustoms.com/images/products/detail/tjljtirecarrier1.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 09, 2010, 08:50:30 AM
That is a nice clean look. I kinda like the lights in the bumper. There are lots of 2x4-2x5 bumpers out there with 2 inch receivers. With a hole saw and jigsaw/ grinder cutoff wheel you can get your 2x6 lights into the bumper. I'd like to see a 2nd latch on the Treks swingout. But all in all it looks real good.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: TrailsLessTaken on April 09, 2010, 10:16:47 AM
I like that swing out kit.  I have been looking for one so I can get the spare outta the bed.  Who makes that one and how much


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 09, 2010, 10:47:58 AM
I like that swing out kit.  I have been looking for one so I can get the spare outta the bed.  Who makes that one and how much

http://tntcustoms.com/reartirecarrierCJ.aspx


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: TrailsLessTaken on April 09, 2010, 12:54:05 PM
Thanks for the link


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 09, 2010, 01:11:00 PM
Thanks for the link
Drop back out to http://tntcustoms.com/reartirecarriers.aspx and you'll see there is a YJ/TJ as well as a JK option.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 12, 2010, 11:19:19 AM
Well, I got stranded for a while today and I think I know why.  Seems that after overheating, my fan controller isn't starting the fan at 197* anymore and is letting it get to 200*.  At 200* it seems my heater lins is leaking since I jsut changed the thermostat and I guess I didn't push the hose far enough down.

So anyway, I was driving down the road and it was getting a bit warm and the fan wasn't kicking in just yet.  Then I had to turn and I think the fan kicked in as I was starting the turn and the wheel got REALLY heavy.  I thought maybe my pump had gone out.  I noticed my temp gauge was pegged (again) so I pulled over and turn it off.  Got out and noticed the belt was gone.  This was at 7:30 am and no one was stopping.  :brick:  I don't think anyone could have helped unless they had a 13mm wrench but it would have been nice for someone to just ask.  Even the local Police/Parking Enforcer just drove by!  :finger:  At least I wasn't in the road.  I had to jump a curb and was half in the mud with the hood up and the hazards on.

Anyway, I ended up calling my Dad since he was home and he was able to drop my tools off.  Took maybe another 15 minutes to get the belt on (105" belt is needs some force to get it on) and was on my way again.  What a PITA.  I disconnected the fan controller and wired it strait to the switch so it starts when the engine does.

I think I'll be getting a DCC sooner rather then later.  I can't really trust the flex-a-lite fan controller anymore.

So, should I buy the indicator light and remote as well or just get the light?  Is the temp sensor a through-the-radiator type?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 12, 2010, 11:33:40 AM
Is the temp sensor a through-the-radiator type?

DCC only has thru fins probe (which is why i didn't buy one, personal preference).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on April 12, 2010, 12:33:13 PM
I think I'll be getting a DCC sooner rather then later.  I can't really trust the flex-a-lite fan controller anymore.

So, should I buy the indicator light and remote as well or just get the light?  Is the temp sensor a through-the-radiator type?

Tw things; first of all, there is some lead time for these, so if you plan on having it sooner rather than later, I would suggest ordering ASAP (mine took about a month and a half, IIRC, but that was a few years back; dont know how the wait is now, though).  Thetemp sensor is through radiator, but it is light and I have yet have it to come off for the first time (even with river crossings thrown in for good measure), so they seem to hold OK (mine has been on for about 3 issue-free years).

As for the indicator light, I did get it because it IS nice to know when the fan is kicking in.  In my case, I do like to know when the fan kicks in, so the light is a must.  I actually got it about a year after I got the controller, and installed it behind one of the lights one the dash (took out the original bulb, and scrapped the color filter with an X-Acto knife) for a cleaner look (IIRC, I used it the overhead light indicator, but I was tempted to use the shift indicator light; I did take the shift light bulb off, as the shift indicator does nothing but drive me nuts, though).

As for the remote, I see no need for it, as my DCC is just over the battery tray; if I need to adjust the temp, I just pop open the hood, instert a jumper (locating the jumper and the instructions to know where to put the jumper would probably be the most time consuming part of the operation!), and close the hood.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 12, 2010, 01:03:39 PM
Tw things; first of all, there is some lead time for these, so if you plan on having it sooner rather than later, I would suggest ordering ASAP (mine took about a month and a half, IIRC, but that was a few years back; dont know how the wait is now, though).
Oh, I'm all too familiar with DCC's wait time.  I know it's a one man operation run from his home.  I'm in no hurry since I have the fan turn on all the time which really isn't a big deal unless it's really cold, and at that point I can turn it off all together.  I guess I'll get the light as well.  Not sure where I'll mount it.

I don't mind the through-the-radiator sender since thats what I'm running right now.  The problem is mine isn't accurate anymore.  I've got it right under the input which might not be the best place.  Still, it's coming on at 200* occasionally and then coming on at 197* other times.  It also seems to turn on when I shut the engine off, which is normal but then it turns off and then may turn on again later.  This is making me think there is an issue with the temperature sender.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 12, 2010, 01:34:18 PM
Oh, I'm all too familiar with DCC's wait time.  I know it's a one man operation run from his home.  I'm in no hurry since I have the fan turn on all the time which really isn't a big deal unless it's really cold, and at that point I can turn it off all together.  I guess I'll get the light as well.  Not sure where I'll mount it.

I don't mind the through-the-radiator sender since thats what I'm running right now.  The problem is mine isn't accurate anymore.  I've got it right under the input which might not be the best place.  Still, it's coming on at 200* occasionally and then coming on at 197* other times.  It also seems to turn on when I shut the engine off, which is normal but then it turns off and then may turn on again later.  This is making me think there is an issue with the temperature sender.

you might want to locate the sender on the bottom of the rad and adjust the starting point again (if i remember correctly yours is adjustable). it is normal to start once you turn off the engine as the hot water would naturally migrate upwards towards the top tank of the rad and the cooler water would make its way down, shouldn't happen with the probe on the bottom. DCC probe placement is on the bottom of the rad.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 12, 2010, 02:18:48 PM
you might want to locate the sender on the bottom of the rad and adjust the starting point again (if i remember correctly yours is adjustable). it is normal to start once you turn off the engine as the hot water would naturally migrate upwards towards the top tank of the rad and the cooler water would make its way down, shouldn't happen with the probe on the bottom. DCC probe placement is on the bottom of the rad.
I understand that it should heat up since the water is no longer moving, but I don't think it should turn off then turn on again though.  I have the controller set to it's lowest temperature already.  If I move it to the bottom of the radiator, I would assume that it would be cooler down there so the fan wouldn't turn on till much later.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 12, 2010, 03:05:14 PM
I think when or if I do the E-fan I'd just wire it off or on. I'd leave it on all the time unless it's real cold, which in Socal is not that often. Or just leave it on and let it warm up a couple minutes before heading out, which is what I normally do. Less to go wrong, easier to fix if something does go wrong. KISS...
A light to show if the fan is on is a neat idea.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 12, 2010, 03:12:33 PM
I think when or if I do the E-fan I'd just wire it off or on. I'd leave it on all the time unless it's real cold, which in Socal is not that often. Or just leave it on and let it warm up a couple minutes before heading out, which is what I normally do. Less to go wrong, easier to fix if something does go wrong. KISS...
A light to show if the fan is on is a neat idea.
Then only problems I've found is that when it's below 50, it can take twice as long to warm up because the fan is so strong.  The shutter from when the fan turns on is what killed my catalytic converter.  Honestly, the DCC isn't that expensive and the solid state should be good against vibrations.  When the jeep is moving the fan usually turns off, just those times when you stop at say a light, does it turn on.  Then it usually turns off once you start moving again.

I've just caught the fan not turned on even though I had stopped and turned the engine off.  Which is why I think there is something up with the sender.  I guess it didn't like overheating.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 12, 2010, 05:10:29 PM
I understand that it should heat up since the water is no longer moving, but I don't think it should turn off then turn on again though.  I have the controller set to it's lowest temperature already.  If I move it to the bottom of the radiator, I would assume that it would be cooler down there so the fan wouldn't turn on till much later.

probably it turns off since the water in the rad cooled, but since the water pump is not moving the hot water in the engine would travel up again and the water that cooled would go down in the rad - natural siphon process - a bit odd though, the ones i seen before would only turn on once but that might be caused by narrow hysteresis between on/off temps in your case (turns off too quickly).

yes, the water in the rad on the bottom would be cooler so since you're the on the lowest setting now that def would be a no go.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 12, 2010, 05:29:07 PM
probably it turns off since the water in the rad cooled, but since the water pump is not moving the hot water in the engine would travel up again and the water that cooled would go down in the rad - natural siphon process - a bit odd though, the ones i seen before would only turn on once but that might be caused by narrow hysteresis between on/off temps in your case (turns off too quickly).

yes, the water in the rad on the bottom would be cooler so since you're the on the lowest setting now that def would be a no go.
Yeah, I can see it staying on once but that's normal hydrothermal circulation but it's turning on then off then on again.

I'll probably drive with it on all the time and see how that is.  IIRC, I had no issues with the idle stumble, parts breaking, etc... till I added the fan controller.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 12, 2010, 06:33:15 PM
Drove it around town with the fan on and no issues what so ever.  So it was probably all because of the fan controller.  Oh I did drive it with the evap and airbox disconnected.  Other then the sucking sound the exhaust note changed and there seems to be a real kick in the pants even at 3/4 throttle.  I'll have to check that out later on although it seems to tell me that the engine wants more air.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 12, 2010, 06:58:45 PM
Drove it around town with the fan on and no issues what so ever.  So it was probably all because of the fan controller.  Oh I did drive it with the evap and airbox disconnected.  Other then the sucking sound the exhaust note changed and there seems to be a real kick in the pants even at 3/4 throttle.  I'll have to check that out later on although it seems to tell me that the engine wants more air.

did you end up installing the large t/b?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 12, 2010, 07:01:07 PM
did you end up installing the large t/b?
Not yet, I'll do that once it gets warmer.  I will need to dremel out the intake and will want to do that in the dry.  I think that will help a lot though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 13, 2010, 07:34:05 AM
Not yet, I'll do that once it gets warmer.  I will need to dremel out the intake and will want to do that in the dry.  I think that will help a lot though.

if i have some time this week i'll make you a new FPR with the vac port thru the adjustments screw (i didn't forget but didn't have time lately)

is your spacer a brand name of some sort? send it over if you want me to bore it out so you can use it as a template for the intake - if you don't care what it looks like i can make you one out of plain aluminum and you can send me yours once everything is installed.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 13, 2010, 12:11:05 PM
if i have some time this week i'll make you a new FPR with the vac port thru the adjustments screw (i didn't forget but didn't have time lately)

is your spacer a brand name of some sort? send it over if you want me to bore it out so you can use it as a template for the intake - if you don't care what it looks like i can make you one out of plain aluminum and you can send me yours once everything is installed.
My TBS is a Poweraid.  I went with this since it does have a CARB sticker.

It's still rainy season, I guess, even though the weatherman said it was going to be clear for a long time.  That was last week.  Now my carpet is soaked and the Jeep smells like mold.  I can wait a few months so it's assured to be clear and warm before I do the intake.

A guide would be nice but I'll probably just do the same as what FourbangerYJ did and dremel it out.  Then run a 2.5" drum to smooth it out.  I'll have to check and see if I have any mill bits that I can use otherwise it's going to be a rasp bit.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: TrailsLessTaken on April 14, 2010, 05:02:23 AM
I thought you had said a while back you got the leak on the dash fixed


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 14, 2010, 12:34:40 PM
I thought you had said a while back you got the leak on the dash fixed
It stopped then started again...   :rant:  I did fix the several OTHER leaks though


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 15, 2010, 12:55:12 PM
I got an email back from TNT Customs on corner guards and their rack.  Seems you have to have non cut-out corners to use their brackets.  So basically, they're forcing you to use their corners.  They also charge $40 for any custom corners.  Not sure if I really want to run full length guards though.

This is sort of making be want to go a different direction as it seems it will be more of a PITA to use their rack.  Maybe go with a custom bumper/rack setup instead.   :confused:

I'm also reconsidering using lights in the bumper...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 15, 2010, 03:23:56 PM
See if Sniper Fab,or PSC can do a set of short blanks?


A custom set up is always possible. It's a shame you don't have a welding setup or live closer.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 15, 2010, 03:27:57 PM
See if Sniper Fab,or PSC can do a set of short blanks?


A custom set up is always possible. It's a shame you don't have a welding setup or live closer.
That's on the to-buy list.  Millermatic 180...

Although if I had a welder, I could cut the bracket up and just use the attachment points to weld to the corner.  That would simplify things a bit.  Still $500 for their carrier is a lot.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 15, 2010, 03:45:34 PM
After I built mine I understood why those companies charge so much for swingouts. It was a fair amount of work. But if your into mass production once the jigs are set up it speeds things up.
If you look at the price of a bumper and swingout you could have a nice welder with some change left over.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 15, 2010, 05:21:03 PM
After I built mine I understood why those companies charge so much for swingouts. It was a fair amount of work. But if your into mass production once the jigs are set up it speeds things up.
If you look at the price of a bumper and swingout you could have a nice welder with some change left over.
It's one of those things I should have learned while in HS.  I only did a little Oxy/Acc back then.  I'm still not sure what I want to do with the rear bumper and tire though.  I do live the Trex setup but if I didn't get the right corners, I'd have to cut and weld the brackets on.  Although, I think that might so end up looking better then sandwiching 1/2" spacer between the hinge and the door, which I think would look ugly although unscene.

The look I'm going for is something like this but a bit more useful.  With 35's you can't have it that far over so the gas can will have to be turned 90* like the Trex.

(http://www.4x4offroads.com/image-files/ford-gpw-rear-view.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 15, 2010, 06:24:51 PM
It's one of those things I should have learned while in HS.  I only did a little Oxy/Acc back then.  I'm still not sure what I want to do with the rear bumper and tire though.  I do live the Trex setup but if I didn't get the right corners, I'd have to cut and weld the brackets on.  Although, I think that might so end up looking better then sandwiching 1/2" spacer between the hinge and the door, which I think would look ugly although unscene.

The look I'm going for is something like this but a bit more useful.  With 35's you can't have it that far over so the gas can will have to be turned 90* like the Trex.

(http://www.4x4offroads.com/image-files/ford-gpw-rear-view.jpg)

if you're thinking about getting a welder i would probably check craigslist and local ads first, i'd say a Miller would be ideal. Just as an example at a minimum this is what you're looking at (+ supplies as in tungsten electrodes, filler rods, etc):

200 amp tig welder at $275 shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/200-AMP-DC-Tig-and-MMA-Inverter-2-in-1-Welder_W0QQitemZ110498985333QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Welders?hash=item19ba40b575#ht_3911wt_1137

argon regulator $37 shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/Argon-CO2-Flowmeter-Mig-Tig-Welding-Regulator-New_W0QQitemZ370351881771QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item563ab13e2b#ht_1325wt_911

helmet $38 shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Solar-Power-Auto-Darkening-Welding-Helmet-ANSI_W0QQitemZ120556843963QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Welders?hash=item1c11bf73bb#ht_1797wt_911

welding gloves $10 shipped (these better to get at a local store as you want something that fits well and soft enough to feel what you're doing)
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Pair-Leather-Welding-Work-Grill-Gloves-MIG-TIG-ARC-NR_W0QQitemZ250462869673QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Welding_Supplies?hash=item3a50c018a9#ht_1751wt_1137

and you need a tank, but this one should be local as well - airgas is the place to go - I would go with one that is fair sized, i had a small bottle at the beginning and i was always running out in the middle of something - with a bigger one you can plan ahead.

EDIT: if you wonder what that welder can do these pics below are made with a similar one (mine is a chinese made as well but has AC also but i didn't manage to come up with a continuous nice weld on aluminum yet, DC portion should be the same though except of pre/post flow) - these are welds on 1/2'' thick plate and i only start welding with it since December here and there (i never used a TIG before but for steel or even stainless it's fairly easy to learn)

(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/Drivetrain_Upgrades/Axle_Jig/weld_1.jpg) (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/Drivetrain_Upgrades/Axle_Jig/weld_2.jpg)



Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 15, 2010, 07:10:42 PM
TIG is probably a bit much for me right now.  Like I said, I'll probably end up getting a Millermatic 180.  I'll probably put off getting a welder for a while longer though.  I just don't have the time. Although it would help with ym CJ front clip conversion.

I've got to go buy a new cat as I need to smog my Jeep in 2 months time, which is a bit of a unexpected expense.  Not sure if I'll get the 64mm TB installed before or wait till afterward.  It will be interesting to see if it passes with the FPS.  I'm sure it will but it's always something.  I also hate going to Test Only stations.  Scott, does the DMV force you to do the same?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 15, 2010, 09:17:28 PM
  I also hate going to Test Only stations.  Scott, does the DMV force you to do the same?


 :nod:  :brick: I hate those guy's. :rant: I barely passed last time. By the skin of my teeth! Next time around could be interesting. I might fail for the first time.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 15, 2010, 09:26:21 PM
Well on the bumper deal. If you come up with a design you like I'd be happy to build you one. They ship pretty easy from what I understand. Don't have a clue what shipping would be. I don't think your in a hurry so kick it around. Also the tube style ones are easy to modify (cut brake/turn lights into). If  you go that route. If you want a offset carrier then a custom one would need to be designed. I have not seen a production one that is offset. Again I would be happy to work with you on it. But the Jeep would need to be brought down so it could be built and installed. Depending if you want a Rubicon type cargo rack we could do it in a weekend, not including travel time. Or I could build the basket ahead of time then figure out the mount system when the swingout was finished. Stew it over.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 15, 2010, 09:50:52 PM
I've got to go buy a new cat as I need to smog my Jeep in 2 months time, which is a bit of a unexpected expense.  Not sure if I'll get the 64mm TB installed before or wait till afterward.  It will be interesting to see if it passes with the FPS.  I'm sure it will but it's always something.  I also hate going to Test Only stations.

it likely will but depends on how they test it. the 64mm t/b won't be a problem, as a matter of fact i think it would be more likely to pass with the 64mm and the FPS rather than just the FPS.

if it doesn't you can always throw in your stock one (the FPS i mean) and go at it again.

TIG is probably a bit much for me right now.  Like I said, I'll probably end up getting a Millermatic 180.  I'll probably put off getting a welder for a while longer though.  I just don't have the time. Although it would help with ym CJ front clip conversion.


i thought the same thing, i bought a MIG/flux welder and only used it a couple of times, now i wish i would have not spent the money on it. I think (this is just my opinion and I am far from being an authority in the matter) if you have a high or mid end MIG then it's great, low end ones not so much (they'll get the job done but with flaws).

one thing i like about TIG is that is silent, no fumes if you clean your parts properly and i can weld near anything and not be scared to start a fire (no sparks flying)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 15, 2010, 10:41:51 PM

 :nod:  :brick: I hate those guy's. :rant: I barely passed last time. By the skin of my teeth! Next time around could be interesting. I might fail for the first time.
So you're forced to go to the Test Only as well, huh.  I guess they send older vehicles to the test only now.  That sucks. I failed once but it wasn't on the emissions, it was the visual, and I think the tester forced it.  He pressed the CCV boot which was questionable to break.  If the PCM trims the map back to stock specs while in closed loop then it shouldn't have any effect on the emissions since they only test at 15mph and 25mph.  My engine usually runs pretty clean and below the limits.

I'll hold off on the bumper till I come up with something.  I'm not really sure what I want to do with it just yet.  The Jeep never came with a rear bumper so it's not an issue.  I know I don't want a Rubicon rack though.  I've got the roof rack if I need the space.  I should probably think about having mounts for when the top is off as well.  Yet another thing to add to the ever growing list of things to do.

Really though, the priority is to get it passed emissions.  I should get the cat soon.  I'll hold off on the TB since the engine will have to relearn the trims yet again.  It passes with the 4.0L TB on there so I suspect it will pass with the 64mm on there was well though.  I'll have to think about that some more.  Maybe I'll put it on.  I know the Jeep passes with the stock FPR and the 19# injectors and the 4.0L TB fine.  The only worry is the new FPR really.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 16, 2010, 06:53:56 AM
So you're forced to go to the Test Only as well, huh.  I guess they send older vehicles to the test only now.  That sucks. I failed once but it wasn't on the emissions, it was the visual, and I think the tester forced it.  He pressed the CCV boot which was questionable to break.  If the PCM trims the map back to stock specs while in closed loop then it shouldn't have any effect on the emissions since they only test at 15mph and 25mph.  My engine usually runs pretty clean and below the limits.

I'll hold off on the bumper till I come up with something.  I'm not really sure what I want to do with it just yet.  The Jeep never came with a rear bumper so it's not an issue.  I know I don't want a Rubicon rack though.  I've got the roof rack if I need the space.  I should probably think about having mounts for when the top is off as well.  Yet another thing to add to the ever growing list of things to do.

Really though, the priority is to get it passed emissions.  I should get the cat soon.  I'll hold off on the TB since the engine will have to relearn the trims yet again.  It passes with the 4.0L TB on there so I suspect it will pass with the 64mm on there was well though.  I'll have to think about that some more.  Maybe I'll put it on.  I know the Jeep passes with the stock FPR and the 19# injectors and the 4.0L TB fine.  The only worry is the new FPR really.

in closed loop you'll be fine


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 16, 2010, 08:36:49 AM
For some reason I thought you drove your Jeep a fair amount. commuting to work and what not. I guess not. Swap the TB and take it to work a few times a week. It should relearn pretty quick.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 16, 2010, 11:52:38 AM
For some reason I thought you drove your Jeep a fair amount. commuting to work (40 miles) and what not. I guess not. Swap the TB and take it to work a few times a week. It should relearn pretty quick.
I used to.  Not I'm not doing too much BUT I do drive it every day.  I haven't had time to bore the intake or the TBS.  Maybe I'll throw it on and see how it compares then I'll bore then out.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 16, 2010, 01:03:40 PM
I used to.  Not I'm not doing too much BUT I do drive it every day.  I haven't had time to bore the intake or the TBS.  Maybe I'll throw it on and see how it compares then I'll bore then out.

if you don't enlarge the intake you won't see any improvement and it might go the other way in fact (there will be a 90 deg lip there). you can alway put it on w/o the tbs and then add that later


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 16, 2010, 01:15:18 PM
if you don't enlarge the intake you won't see any improvement and it might go the other way in fact (there will be a 90 deg lip there). you can alway put it on w/o the tbs and then add that later
The lip is always there, even with the 4.0L TB.  I'll figure something out though.  I still have some time to mill it all out.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on April 16, 2010, 01:22:55 PM
The lip is always there, even with the 4.0L TB.  I'll figure something out though.  I still have some time to mill it all out.

The lip on mine is not THAT bad; it's maybe 2mm at most...  That HAS to be better than no TB at all.

In my case, I am waiting to come back from my trip, as I already ordered the gasket for the exhaust and intake manifold.  I will take both down, in order to remove the broken exhaust manifold stud, and will take advantage of the fact that the intake manifold will be off to mill it while off the engine (I can then wash it real good to make sure no junk gets into the engine).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 16, 2010, 02:58:31 PM
Took some pictures of the 64mm Throttle Body after I cleaned it up a bit.  Looks like it's about as big as you can safely go without cutting into the IAS maze.  I'll dig out my 2.5L TB for comparisons when I swap the TB later.

(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/S8jcbm9EB8I/AAAAAAAANh4/ncWwtQ1mxW4/s720/DSC_0009.jpg)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/S8jccDTwkSI/AAAAAAAANh8/mK26M57vMz4/s720/DSC_0008.jpg)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/S8jccWSdafI/AAAAAAAANiA/_z4BRkKtgRs/s720/DSC_0007.jpg)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/S8jcc17sxdI/AAAAAAAANiE/6jCyBz4o9Sw/s720/DSC_0006.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 24, 2010, 05:39:26 PM
Was able to screw around with the Jeep all day.  By all day, I pretty much mean all day.  I reseated the windshield frame a third time.  This time I'm hoping it will seal.  Although, when I put the top back on the windshield kicked back 1/4".  :brick:

I swapped the FPR for the new one.  Sure is shiny.  :thumb:  It's about 1/4" shorter then the prototype I was running.  It's probably a wash which one I should run but the new one looks more OEM.

I also took off my TB.  I was thinking about milling the opening but it was getting late.  I spent too much time setting up the hardtop that it I didn't want to be milling in the dark.  Seems that about 1/4" can be removed.  It will bit into the rib for cylinders 1/2 and again for 3/4.  The opening isn't that small though.  The TBS is larger then the opening even with the helix cuts.  Since I didn't get a chance to mill them all out, I figured I'd just put it in anyway.  The transition between the TB is more subtle with the TBS so it's not a hard edge when it gets to the intake.  It is tapering though, which will sap some power but for now it will be OK.  Swapped by sensors over and the Jeep started up fine.  Reset the computer while I was at it also.  It's going to rain again next week so I'll see if it still leaks.

Once it's sunny for a few days, I'll mill out the intake and the TBS to match.

Oh, since it was getting too late to mill, I didn't bother to replace the gasket for my intake.  I did tighten the bolts down, some of which were on the loose side.  Hopefully that will stop the leaks.  I get a whiff of burning oil when I drove around.  ???

I'll post some pictures and probably write a formal review on the FPR when I get a chance.  I also want to write up the whole leaking issue I've been having as well.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 26, 2010, 01:07:03 PM
I was able to drive around town with the new TB.  There is a difference.  I would say it's pretty big.  More so then the FPR and more then the stock 4.0L TB.  But here's a stipulation, it's probably big because of some of the other mods, like the 19# Ford Injectors, FPR, PD Ignition, etc...  The engine showed some signs of wanting more air one day when I left the airbox disconnected.  These initial tests are with a unmodified intake and a Poweraid Spacer.  The spacer is able to blend the transition from 64 mm to 54mm at the intake.  I'll test it like this for a while till I can get a tools to grind out the intake.  The low end torque is impressive.  I'll have to wait till I'm able to get it into open-loop.  I'll be doing a addition to the 2.5L to 4.0L TB in the future.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 26, 2010, 01:18:03 PM
I was able to drive around town with the new TB.  There is a difference.  I would say it's pretty big.  More so then the FPR and more then the stock 4.0L TB.  But here's a stipulation, it's probably big because of some of the other mods, like the 19# Ford Injectors, FPR, PD Ignition, etc...  The engine showed some signs of wanting more air one day when I left the airbox disconnected.  These initial tests are with a unmodified intake and a Poweraid Spacer.  The spacer is able to blend the transition from 64 mm to 54mm at the intake.  I'll test it like this for a while till I can get a tools to grind out the intake.  The low end torque is impressive.  I'll have to wait till I'm able to get it into open-loop.  I'll be doing a addition to the 2.5L to 4.0L TB in the future.

I would agree that all the mods put together add up. I felt that the throttle response was improved a great deal with the 62mm TB. Rowing through 1st-4th it gains RPM's much faster than before, at least for me.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 26, 2010, 01:22:39 PM

I would agree that all the mods put together add up. I felt that the throttle response was improved a great deal with the 62mm TB. Rowing through 1st-4th it gains RPM's much faster than before, at least for me.
I think the reason it picks up RPM's much faster is because of the increase in torque so it gets up and goes.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 26, 2010, 01:57:26 PM
I was able to drive around town with the new TB.  There is a difference.  I would say it's pretty big.  More so then the FPR and more then the stock 4.0L TB.  But here's a stipulation, it's probably big because of some of the other mods, like the 19# Ford Injectors, FPR, PD Ignition, etc...  The engine showed some signs of wanting more air one day when I left the airbox disconnected.  These initial tests are with a unmodified intake and a Poweraid Spacer.  The spacer is able to blend the transition from 64 mm to 54mm at the intake.  I'll test it like this for a while till I can get a tools to grind out the intake.  The low end torque is impressive.  I'll have to wait till I'm able to get it into open-loop.  I'll be doing a addition to the 2.5L to 4.0L TB in the future.

how do you plan to enlarge the tbs? ship it over with the old FPR and i'll get it done on the lathe with a boring bar (did that for Scott to match his existing 62mm t/b). You can just enlarge the intake for now and run the t/b w/o the spacer in the meantime. It will come out much better this way and will be perfectly round and centered.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 26, 2010, 02:14:21 PM
how do you plan to enlarge the tbs? ship it over with the old FPR and i'll get it done on the lathe with a boring bar (did that for Scott to match his existing 62mm t/b). You can just enlarge the intake for now and run the t/b w/o the spacer in the meantime. It will come out much better this way and will be perfectly round and centered.
I think I'll probably take you up on that offer since it would be a PITA to do it without a mill.  What's the ID of the gasket?  Looks smaller then 64 mm.  Also, what was it you said about rounding the opening towards cylinder 3/4?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 26, 2010, 02:32:45 PM
I think I'll probably take you up on that offer since it would be a PITA to do it without a mill.  What's the ID of the gasket?  Looks smaller then 64 mm.  Also, what was it you said about rounding the opening towards cylinder 3/4?
it's for cyl 1/2 and 3/4
when you mill/grind the intake opening larger you will end up with a sharp edge at the bottom (inside the intake) - the stock opening has a smooth rounded transition there, so once you're done boring out the opening you should round that edge towards the front 2 and rear 2 cylinders so there is a curved continuous transition. It helps the airflow to take the turn towards the intake runs and is a known aerodynamic effect (the fluid flow in contact with a solid surface will follow the surface profile - it is how top and bottom of the airplane wings work to create lift with less drag) - if the surface is not continuous on the airflow path there will be a turbulence created on that edge which acts like a brake in the airflow (like choking the intake size where the turbulence occurs).

the stock gasket i think is 62mm or somewhere around that, you can either use silicone or make your own out of folder cardboard and use silicone on it (or if you want to be fancy buy some gasket stock).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 26, 2010, 02:43:23 PM
OK, that makes sense.  So bevel the underside a little.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 26, 2010, 02:54:27 PM
OK, that makes sense.  So bevel the underside a little.

yes, but make it round and continuous.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 26, 2010, 03:08:38 PM
The gasket is 62mm.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 26, 2010, 03:15:44 PM
I can probably sand that 2mm off the ID of a gasket then.

I have to go buy some bolts for the TB as I don't have the originals anymore.  Anyone know the thread pitch and length off hand?

I'll probably have to leave it off till next week as it's supposed to rain on and off this week.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 26, 2010, 03:21:58 PM
6mm about 1.25-1.5 inches long. for use with the 1 inch spacer.
If your talking about the stock screws I can measure mine for length.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 26, 2010, 03:48:19 PM
6mm about 1.25-1.5 inches long. for use with the 1 inch spacer.
If your talking about the stock screws I can measure mine for length.
I need the stock lengths.  I have bolts for the 1" spacer but I'd have to remove it when at the hardware store to check.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 26, 2010, 03:48:34 PM
yeah, M6x1 and i think the stock length is 3/4'' (or 20mm)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 27, 2010, 06:57:16 PM
TB is acting up, I think there might be a vacuum leak.  Idles around 900-1000 RPM.  Also now, the idle isn't dropping like it should.  I'll have to take it off, clean the IAS and then put it back together then it stops raining.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 27, 2010, 09:56:19 PM
TB is acting up, I think there might be a vacuum leak.  Idles around 900-1000 RPM.  Also now, the idle isn't dropping like it should.  I'll have to take it off, clean the IAS and then put it back together then it stops raining.

it didn't do it at the beginning? or did you remove the tbs in the meantime?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 27, 2010, 11:13:34 PM
it didn't do it at the beginning? or did you remove the tbs in the meantime?
The higher idle was apparent when I installed it and was able to drive it around town for the first time.  I don't think the slow return to idle was there before.  The IAS could be sticking.  I didn't clean out the IAS housing this time as I just pulled it off the old TB and swapped it.  I might be able to check it out tomorrow.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aka-justin on April 27, 2010, 11:42:39 PM
Did you reset the computer after installing it?  (Couldn't see anywhere if you had)  I forgot to when I did mine and it made a big difference.  Otherwise, I think it takes like 60 drive cycles to relearn the new parameters.

Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds. (This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory.
Reconnect the Battery Cable


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 28, 2010, 11:20:24 AM
Did you reset the computer after installing it?  (Couldn't see anywhere if you had)  I forgot to when I did mine and it made a big difference.  Otherwise, I think it takes like 60 drive cycles to relearn the new parameters.

Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds. (This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory.
Reconnect the Battery Cable

Yes, I reset the computer.  Keep in mind, I was probably one of the first to ever do a 4.0L install back in 2001. So, I've had to trouble shoot it before.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 28, 2010, 12:43:43 PM
Ordered a new CA Legal cat off Amazon.com.  Should be here tomorrow thanks to Prime.

It's still raining on and off so I doubt I'll be able to fix the TB.  I'll still have to drive it though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 28, 2010, 04:05:59 PM
Took the TB off.  From the issues it was having, I suspected the IAS and not a TB issue.  I haven't driven it yet but the IAS plunger was covered in carbon.  I cleaned it up really nice.  I also took some measurements of the stopper on the throttle body as well as the angle of the throttle plate.  Seems to all be the same so this confirms that it's not the TB.

We'll see later today when I can drive it, if I actually fixed it.

I measured the 2.5L TB's opening at 48mm.  The 4.0L at 54mm and the new one at 64.1mm


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 28, 2010, 06:27:05 PM
Hmm, well, I drove it around and the idle is still at 900RPM.  Strange since the set screw was actually a bit lower then the ones for the 4.0L TB and 2.5L TB (which were at the same height.)  I might swap TB's just to see if the idle drops like it should then adjust the setscrew.  I know when the TBS and IAS are unplugged the idle drops to around 750RPM so it's probably a sensor.  Maybe the TBS thinks the throttle is open slightly more because the set screw is too high.  Strange that I'd need to adjust it though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on April 28, 2010, 06:59:07 PM
Just back the set screw out and see what happens, just keep track of how much you turn it. Also what happens when you creAte a vacuum leak? Does it correct the idle or does it rev up more?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on April 28, 2010, 07:02:27 PM
Just back the set screw out and see what happens, just keep track of how much you turn it. Also what happens when you creAte a vacuum leak? Does it correct the idle or does it rev up more?

did you check for a vacuum leak??


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 28, 2010, 07:39:56 PM
Just back the set screw out and see what happens, just keep track of how much you turn it. Also what happens when you creAte a vacuum leak? Does it correct the idle or does it rev up more?
Good question.  If it clears up tomorrow, I'll disconnect my booster and see what happens.  I think it will jump as a vacuum leak will usually result in the RPM jumping to 2000RPM.  I was going to mark the set screw and the TB then turn it 1/2 turn.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aka-justin on April 28, 2010, 07:54:31 PM
I realize that you had posted the TB Swap FAQ back in 2005 and are book of knowledge, but it doesn't hurt to ask ;)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 28, 2010, 08:14:26 PM
I realize that you had posted the TB Swap FAQ back in 2005 and are book of knowledge, but it doesn't hurt to ask ;)
Yeah, the first time I wrote it for 4x4Wire.com in 2001.  Then everyone got wind and it spread like wild fire.  It's still frustrating to trouble shoot though.  Gonna try what Art suggest first then work from there.

I did seal the IAS to the housing with some RTV to make sure it's not leaking.  You can see some light through the butterfly BUT you can see some light through the OE TB's as well.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aka-justin on April 28, 2010, 08:25:59 PM
Mine never seated 100% either.

I remember hearing my father-in-law saying that the shaft on carbuerators can oblong the hole in the housing making rebuilding them pointless since it never reseals and causes a constant vacuum leak.  Wonder if it's happened to your TB...?  You can try a good old stehascope and start probing around.  He showed me that too...  http://www.google.com/products?rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&oe=&q=mechanic's+stethoscope (http://www.google.com/products?rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&oe=&q=mechanic's+stethoscope)

Just pull the vibration/feeler tip off and put a long piece of hose with a coupler on the end.  Let's you stick your ear against things on and around the engine while being far away keeping your face out of danger.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on April 28, 2010, 08:43:10 PM
Jeffy, for creating a vacuum leak. what I was talking about is a small leak that wull kick the idle up a couple of hundred rpm so the idle air control can try to pull it down. To find vacuum leaks a squirt bottle with water kinda works propane is the best though.
A stethoscope with a hose on the end works really well for locating exhaust leaks at the manifold or vacuum when the manifold atleast whistles a bit


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 28, 2010, 09:11:21 PM
Jeffy, for creating a vacuum leak. what I was talking about is a small leak that wull kick the idle up a couple of hundred rpm so the idle air control can try to pull it down. To find vacuum leaks a squirt bottle with water kinda works propane is the best though.
A stethoscope with a hose on the end works really well for locating exhaust leaks at the manifold or vacuum when the manifold atleast whistles a bit
Well, I don't think there is a leak in the base where the gasket is.  If it's leaking them maybe it's in the shaft like 1995yj said.  There are only two areas where i can cause a leak, the booster or the CCV.  I'll check it out tomorrow.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 28, 2010, 09:50:46 PM
Well, I don't think there is a leak in the base where the gasket is.  If it's leaking them maybe it's in the shaft like 1995yj said.  There are only two areas where i can cause a leak, the booster or the CCV.  I'll check it out tomorrow.

the shaft has needle bearings in the housing, they usually don't wear out like the old carbs and i don't think would be enough to increase the idle by that much but maybe combined with the opening of the butterfly. try to lower the butterfly first and see what happens, even though they are at the same level the diameter is significantly larger so that might be the reason. The other thing i'm thinking about since you mention disconnecting the IAC would idle fine is if the valve is kept opened a little more if the TPS position is read to be too low - just a thought that maybe raising the butterfly a bit to make the IAC close more - try that way too.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: chardrc on April 29, 2010, 08:27:14 AM
I remember hearing my father-in-law saying that the shaft on carbuerators can oblong the hole in the housing making rebuilding them pointless since it never reseals and causes a constant vacuum leak.  

i remember someone a few years ago had that problem with their 4.0l tb so its possible (shaft wearing causing vacuum leak)...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 29, 2010, 11:33:59 AM
i remember someone a few years ago had that problem with their 4.0l tb so its possible (shaft wearing causing vacuum leak)...
I remember that too.

I disconnected the CCV and the idle did pick up to 1100 RPM when reconnected it went back to 900 RPM.  When I put my finger over the tube, the RPM dropped but since I was at the engine I couldn't see how much.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 29, 2010, 12:11:23 PM
I remember that too.

I disconnected the CCV and the idle did pick up to 1100 RPM when reconnected it went back to 900 RPM.  When I put my finger over the tube, the RPM dropped but since I was at the engine I couldn't see how much.

if the shaft is not worn and there's no radial "play" in it should be fine, my guess is the rpm would go down once you lower the butterfly.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on April 29, 2010, 02:49:34 PM
your intake could have a vacuum leak were it meets the head also. or worse case a intake valve seal sucking in to the engine but usually there is oil consumption also with a intake valve.

did you say you tried a new t/b? If you did I missed that comment.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 29, 2010, 02:53:30 PM
your intake could have a vacuum leak were it meets the head also. or worse case a intake valve seal sucking in to the engine but usually there is oil consumption also with a intake valve.

did you say you tried a new t/b? If you did I missed that comment.

it happened once he put the new t/b on.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on April 29, 2010, 02:55:48 PM
oh ok what year is it maybe you just need to drive it for a few days so it adapts to the new one


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 29, 2010, 04:01:31 PM
I backed the set set set screw 1/2 turn and no difference.  While looking through the TB, I can see light last half the butterfly maybe 1mm tops.  The other thing is I swapped back the 4.0L TB and the engine barely ran.  If I didn't step on the throttle, it wouldn't start.  If I rev'ed it and held it long enough I could get it to idle at....  900 RPM.  It throws a code 24 (TPS).  Strange thing is it starts with the 64mm TB and sends no code.

Ordered a new TBS.  Should be here tomorrow.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 29, 2010, 04:06:16 PM
I backed the set set set screw 1/2 turn and no difference.  While looking through the TB, I can see light last half the butterfly maybe 1mm tops.  The other thing is I swapped back the 4.0L TB and the engine barely ran.  If I didn't step on the throttle, it wouldn't start.  If I rev'ed it and held it long enough I could get it to idle at....  900 RPM.  It throws a code 24 (TPS).  Strange thing is it starts with the 64mm TB and sends no code.
that's weird.

Try what i suggested, go with the set screw all the way down until the butterfly starts to bind (when is resting on the inside of the t/b) and then come back up a tiny bit (so it doesn't touch the wall).

have you mixed up the 2.5L and 4.0L tps at all?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 29, 2010, 04:10:58 PM
that's weird.

Try what i suggested, go with the set screw all the way down until the butterfly starts to bind (when is resting on the inside of the t/b) and then come back up a tiny bit (so it doesn't touch the wall).

have you mixed up the 2.5L and 4.0L tps at all?
I don't own any 4.0L stuff.  I have always received cores.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 29, 2010, 04:15:05 PM
I don't own any 4.0L stuff.  I have always received cores.

ok, i was just wondering about the tps code that's all.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 29, 2010, 05:45:04 PM
I think the TPS might be failing.  I bought a new one off Amazon so it wasn't overpriced like at Napa.  I put the 64mm back in since it does run.  Also, looking at the 4.0L, I can see more light though it as well.  The taper just made it harder to see but it's all the way around.  I'm placing by bet on the TPS though.  I don't see any reason for it to be the TB.  The 64mm TB doesn't leaking either.  I'll know tomorrow when the new TBS comes.

I also got my new cat in.  Boy, my old cat was crap.  After the front catalyst broke loose fell apart the rear one rotated and was stuck in the output.  No wonder, I was getting crappy performance.  The down side is that Magnaflow didn't include a new gasket so I had to reuse the one I had which was falling apart.  Need to get a new gasket soon.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 29, 2010, 06:03:18 PM
I think the TPS might be failing.  I bought a new one off Amazon so it wasn't overpriced like at Napa.  I put the 64mm back in since it does run.  Also, looking at the 4.0L, I can see more light though it as well.  The taper just made it harder to see but it's all the way around.  I'm placing by bet on the TPS though.  I don't see any reason for it to be the TB.  The 64mm TB doesn't leaking either.  I'll know tomorrow when the new TBS comes.

I also got my new cat in.  Boy, my old cat was crap.  After the front catalyst broke loose fell apart the rear one rotated and was stuck in the output.  No wonder, I was getting crappy performance.  The down side is that Magnaflow didn't include a new gasket so I had to reuse the one I had which was falling apart.  Need to get a new gasket soon.

if you lower the adjusting screw low enough the butterfly will close completely and you will not see any light, will still be at an angle but it will get stuck into the inside wall all the way around - it has to be a little higher or it will create a ridge inside the t/b.

interesting that it works on the 64 and not the 4.0, might be the position is different and is not failing in that particular spot - so you might still need to adjust the opening but like you said better to wait and see with the new one.



Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 29, 2010, 06:29:58 PM
Well, the code came up with the 64mm TB.  I just had to drive it around town.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on April 29, 2010, 07:32:50 PM
it's probably that sensor then hope it works out for ya.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 30, 2010, 03:56:39 PM
Well, I got the new TBS.  Put the 4.0L TB in and reset the PCM and it works.  Idles at 700-ish.  Drop in the 64mm and it's at 900 RPM.  I backed the set screw back 3/4 turn and it may have dropped it 50-100 RPM.  I can't back it any further as the butterfly hits the wall of the TB.  The butterfly on the opposite side still has a 1mm gap which might be causing the higher idle.  The TB isn't leaking from the bearings or from the gasket, IAS or anything else.  I'll take it for a road test later to see if it settles any more.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 30, 2010, 04:13:00 PM
Well, I got the new TBS.  Put the 4.0L TB in and reset the PCM and it works.  Idles at 700-ish.  Drop in the 64mm and it's at 900 RPM.  I backed the set screw back 3/4 turn and it may have dropped it 50-100 RPM.  I can't back it any further as the butterfly hits the wall of the TB.  The butterfly on the opposite side still has a 1mm gap which might be causing the higher idle.  The TB isn't leaking from the bearings or from the gasket, IAS or anything else.  I'll take it for a road test later to see if it settles any more.

the stock idle is supposed to be at 750, if you get 800 with the 64mm it's fine

the butterfly touches all around the t/b (it's oval) and it's centered before tightening the 2 screws on the shaft - should be the same distance on both sides.

reset the 'puter and see if that helps in time though


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 30, 2010, 04:22:24 PM
Hmm, I don't think it's even all the way around.  When setting the screw I can clearly see the contact marks off one side but not the other.  When it's set like that, I can still see light out of the other side.  Maybe I'll take some pictures.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 30, 2010, 04:27:52 PM
Hmm, I don't think it's even all the way around.  When setting the screw I can clearly see the contact marks off one side but not the other.  When it's set like that, I can still see light out of the other side.  Maybe I'll take some pictures.

yeah, take some pics, it should touch all the way around when the screw is all the way down and not touching the lever (do that before taking the pics).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 30, 2010, 04:29:21 PM
I've had the TB on and off several times today.  It's like I've done 100's of swaps this week alone.  :lol:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 30, 2010, 07:11:00 PM
I've had the TB on and off several times today.  It's like I've done 100's of swaps this week alone.  :lol:

do me a favor and when you take the pics put it on with the screw as far down as it won't lift the butterfly at all (so it rests on the t/b) - if that's not lowering the idle below 750 then don't bother with it anymore, there's something wrong with the alignment in the butterfly, so somehow it's either machined wrong or is misaligned - i'll make another t/b and send it over in that case and i'll figure out what's wrong with this one once i get it back.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 30, 2010, 07:47:04 PM
Well, I backed it down and it was binding every time I had to open the throttle from a stop.  It was idling around 850-900 then drop to 800 after a while.  There was maybe less then 1 turn till the screw stopped working.  I had it a 1/2 turn.

This is a bit exaggerated but you can see how the light is leaking in.  This was with the TB binding a bit so the set screw was really low.  I think it was 3/4 turn.

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/S9uTQckRLvI/AAAAAAAANoQ/pDA-QqrzHGg/s640/CIMG1352.jpg)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/S9uTQuhEGVI/AAAAAAAANoU/ED615Jtu7_s/s640/CIMG1351.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on April 30, 2010, 08:18:31 PM
that's really strange, i wonder if something happened during shipping (but i can't really figure out how that can be). when i centered it before tightening the shaft screws it made a mark all the way around the inside of the t/b - so that's not even close to what it was. Don't worry about it, i'll get another core and bore one out - there's really no point in trying it the way it looks right now. I'll take a pic of the TJ one i have for a comparison, the butterfly for that one is made in the same fixture with same dimensions.

EDIT: one thing that you can try, assuming that somehow the butterfly moved in the shaft during shipping, is to loosen the 2 screws in the shaft and with the adjusting screw backed down far enough so it does not touch at all push on the lever so it forces the butterfly to center itself in the t/b - if that gets it to the point where it touches all the way around then it's fine, if not it means the shaft is bent and can't be centered (or maybe the butterfly is bent) - if it doesn't work i'll have another one made and will ship it your way.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on May 01, 2010, 09:29:50 AM
this is the way it should look like when it's fully seated (would touch both sides but there is a little bit of room on left/right so it is not rubbing against the t/b or otherwise would bind - the butterfly is oval for that purpose) - the space on the left/right is really tiny, shows more as there's light reflection on the t/b inside wall. when you tighten the adjusting screw a little bit just to get the butterfly off the wall it should be same distance/spacing all around - same with the stock 4.0 or 2.5

(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/Misc/64tb_Fully_seated.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 01, 2010, 03:53:03 PM
I took the TB off and put the old 4.0L TB on.  I was wrong about the idle. If the 4.0L is 700-750 then the 64mm has to be 900-875.  It never gets low enough to be in the middle at 750.  I haven't tried playing around with the butterflys yet.

I did see my gas mileage drop to 13.6 from 15 though.  :lol:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on May 01, 2010, 06:00:05 PM
I took the TB off and put the old 4.0L TB on.  I was wrong about the idle. If the 4.0L is 700-750 then the 64mm has to be 900-875.  It never gets low enough to be in the middle at 750.  I haven't tried playing around with the butterflys yet.

I did see my gas mileage drop to 13.6 from 15 though.  :lol:

shouldn't affect your mpg as long as you drive the same (not how far you push the throttle, the 64 would suck in more air for the same opening).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 01, 2010, 06:33:21 PM
shouldn't affect your mpg as long as you drive the same (not how far you push the throttle, the 64 would suck in more air for the same opening).

The mileage tanked from all of the random testing.  This last week, I had to replace my serp. belt on the road side, replaced the cat, replaced the FPS, replaced the TPS and replaced the TB several times over.  All that idling and leaking of fuel probably didn't help.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on May 07, 2010, 09:20:44 PM
got the t/b today - it's off by quite a bit, not sure what the reason is but i'll figure it out.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on May 09, 2010, 08:00:38 PM
did you get it fixed up ?? hope so


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on May 09, 2010, 08:07:36 PM
did you get it fixed up ?? hope so

just looked at it, seems that was dropped or something heavy dropped on it during shipping and it pushed the shaft all the way to one side - the butterfly is somewhat pressing off center and it can get recentered - loosening the screws will take care of it but i will take the butterfly out to see if it is bent or if the shaft is bent - no big deal, i have shafts and i can make another butterfly, the core is fine


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on June 04, 2010, 06:25:10 PM
New TB is in.  I didn't bother to clean it up so I just bolted it in.  Same goes for the TBS.  I did have a problem with the butterfly being too low.  it would catch on the sides and cause a jerky throttle response.  Cranked the stop up about 1 turn and it was fixed.  The new TB idles where it should.  Torque took a nice jump again, over the 4.0L TB and no TBS.  I still haven't bored out the intake but the throttle feels good.  I'm going to drive it around like this so I can get is SMOG'ed next week.  Then I'll bore out the intake to match the TBS and TB at 64mm.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on June 04, 2010, 07:20:22 PM
New TB is in.  I didn't bother to clean it up so I just bolted it in.  Same goes for the TBS.  I did have a problem with the butterfly being too low.  it would catch on the sides and cause a jerky throttle response.  Cranked the stop up about 1 turn and it was fixed.  The new TB idles where it should.  Torque took a nice jump again, over the 4.0L TB and no TBS.  I still haven't bored out the intake but the throttle feels good.  I'm going to drive it around like this so I can get is SMOG'ed next week.  Then I'll bore out the intake to match the TBS and TB at 64mm.

glad it worked this time - can't wait to hear the impressions once you bore out the intake.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on June 11, 2010, 02:58:24 PM
Went to get the Jeep's emissions tested.  They do a dyno test at 15MPH and 25MPH.  They check CO2, O2, HC, CO and NO.

 - - - - - - - - - -| %CO2 | %O2 | - - HC (PPM) - - - | - - - - CO% - - - - | - - - NO (PPM)
TEST - - RPM - - - MEAS - MEAS - MAX - AVE - MEAS - MAX - AVE - MEAS - MAX - AVE - MEAS
15MPH - 1722RPM - - 14.9 - - 0.2 - - 89 - - 28 - - 24 - - 0.55 - - 0.07 - 0.05 - 721 - 260 - 557 - PASS
25MPH - 2673RPM - - 15.1 - - 0.00 - - 75 - - 24 - - 7 - - 0.69 - - 0.09 - 0.01 - 623 - 199 - 227 - PASS

All passed with no problems.  The changes made to the Jeep since the last time are the 64mm TBS and TB as well as the FPR.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on June 11, 2010, 03:00:31 PM
Nice! I hope it goes well when it's my turn.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on June 11, 2010, 03:06:32 PM
Nice! I hope it goes well when it's my turn.
Also learned a few other things.  1999 is the cut off year for 'Test Only'.  It rolls up every year.
He was also telling me that they have had a lot of Diesels come in and not pass because of mods the owners said they don't have.  I paid $49 OTD.  That includes the EVAP test that the state has 1995 and older doing.  They pressurize your gas tank and check for leaks.

For those in the East Bay, I highly recommend this shop.  I found them on Yelp.com and they have a good rating.  I can't believe some people pay $150 for a SUV.

Official SMOG Station
www.smogdiscounts.com
1813 Mt. Diablo Blvd. Suite C, Walnut Creek CA. 94596

Post up your numbers when you get it smog'ed.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on June 12, 2010, 04:37:14 PM
Was able to drive it around on the highway with the 64mm TB and 64mm TBS.  There is definately a difference compared to my old unmodified TBS.  The Jeep will cruise in 4th at 65MPH and 3000RPM which is petty good.  I could probably swap to 4.88's and bring that up a few hundred and call it good though, I'm still wanting 5.38's or 5.13's minimum.

I'll have to get around to dremeling out the intake.  I'm wondering if that will really help open it up.  The torque has increased with each incremental mod.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on June 12, 2010, 09:24:14 PM
Was able to drive it around on the highway with the 64mm TB and 64mm TBS.  There is definately a difference compared to my old unmodified TBS.  The Jeep will cruise in 4th at 65MPH and 3000RPM which is petty good.  I could probably swap to 4.88's and bring that up a few hundred and call it good though, I'm still wanting 5.38's or 5.13's minimum.

I'll have to get around to dremeling out the intake.  I'm wondering if that will really help open it up.  The torque has increased with each incremental mod.

will help for sure - think of the race cars with restrictor, that's the way they lower the cfm by choking the intake (all cars run the same restictor per regulations). Some motorcycles have restrictors in the intakes as well depending where they are sold to limit the HP (some local bylaws or insurance limits). so in your case opening that up is the same as removing the restriction on the intake.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on June 13, 2010, 04:42:50 PM
Was able to drive it around on the highway with the 64mm TB and 64mm TBS.  There is definately a difference compared to my old unmodified TBS.  The Jeep will cruise in 4th at 65MPH and 3000RPM which is petty good.  I could probably swap to 4.88's and bring that up a few hundred and call it good though, I'm still wanting 5.38's or 5.13's minimum.

I'll have to get around to dremeling out the intake.  I'm wondering if that will really help open it up.  The torque has increased with each incremental mod.

I say live with it (after grinding the intake) and start saving up for more gear reduction in the T-case area.  :naughty:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on June 14, 2010, 02:22:42 PM
Yeah, that's not me.

(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TBadRPkh-BI/AAAAAAAAOOg/NUH7R3jg6nU/2010SMOG.jpg)
Tech was on the short side and had trouble seeing over the fenders.  At least he knew where to step.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on June 26, 2010, 04:49:00 PM
Went to get the Jeep's emissions tested.  They do a dyno test at 15MPH and 25MPH.  They check CO2, O2, HC, CO and NO.

 - - - - - - - - - -| %CO2 | %O2 | - - HC (PPM) - - - | - - - - CO% - - - - | - - - NO (PPM)
TEST - - RPM - - - MEAS - MEAS - MAX - AVE - MEAS - MAX - AVE - MEAS - MAX - AVE - MEAS
15MPH - 1722RPM - - 14.9 - - 0.2 - - 89 - - 28 - - 24 - - 0.55 - - 0.07 - 0.05 - 721 - 260 - 557 - PASS
25MPH - 2673RPM - - 15.1 - - 0.00 - - 75 - - 24 - - 7 - - 0.69 - - 0.09 - 0.01 - 623 - 199 - 227 - PASS

All passed with no problems.  The changes made to the Jeep since the last time are the 64mm TBS and TB as well as the FPR.

did you get a chance to open the intake?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on June 26, 2010, 09:16:27 PM
did you get a chance to open the intake?
Nope, I haven't had time to do it.  The weather is really unpredictable this year.  It was raining a few days ago and now it's headed back up.

I'll get it done sooner or later.  I did pull the venturi out of the airbox though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Eucalypta on June 28, 2010, 05:16:31 AM
New picture, nothing special...

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/S76Man4JnEI/AAAAAAAANfI/B2TFwr2zqOc/s720/DSC_0002.jpg)

Is that really a 35" 12,5" tire on your tail gate? How do the hinges take that?
I am always driving without spare; have 33" 12,5 on steel rims. Always afraid the hinges cannot take the weight...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Eucalypta on June 28, 2010, 01:58:03 PM
I have no problems other then the additional weight on the hinges making the latch hit the stud unless I lift up a little.  When I mean a little I do mean very little.  It closes normally otherwise except for the thud from the stud hitting the latch off center a bit.  If I remove the tire it closes fine.

Hmmm....would save me ALOT of money which I was going to throw at a bumper with sway away tire carier. They go here for about € 650,=.
Money I can now spend on my clutch, modifying my old bumper with tow eyes (shackle mounts or what ever they are called) and nescessary repairs.

Next new (smaller?) project  :clap:

@JFRabat: on the danger to go too much off topic: Nice rear bumper. I am trying to adapt my German Westfalia bumper and fit it with those shackle mounts so that when they have to pull me out of trouble, the forces aredirectly on the crossing of the rear crossmember and chassis.
My Westfalia bumper has a towingball just about 20 cm under the bumper. So any force on this ball makes the bumper tilt and thus shear off the crossmember off the chassis. A real crappy design from Westfalia.

Did you buy the bumper or manufacture it your self?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on July 13, 2010, 09:32:47 PM
I think I talked myself into going with 33x10.5R15's next time I need tires, which will probably in in a year or two.  I do more driving on lesser roads as well as normal roads then hardcore trails so it doesn't make sense for me to keep the 35's since 33's are still pretty capable.  Not to mention, I don't really like the wide look.  This would be a shift from a rockcrawler to more of a well rounded Expedition type vehicle.  One that I can drive cross country or even to Mexico and Canada, which I'd like to eventually do.  Not to mention the daily commute as well as just putting around town.  It does it all right now and most of the time it's too biased towards offroad which can really drain you on long trips.  Other then the 35's, I think it's pretty well rounded though.  Maybe change the Detroit for an ARB later.  I still want to double up on the transfer case but I also want to add A/C.  No, D60 since it would be a pig with 33's.  I'll keep my rear D44 and get some spare HD shafts drilled for 5 on 5.5", currently I have Superiors in 4.5" only.  The front, I still want to swap it out for a D44 so I can get manual hubs.  If I swap the front axle I might still go lower in gears to 5.13:1.  Although, if I want to do an engine swap then I should probably keep the 4:56's.

The only potential problems is making sure I can clear skinny tires with them being so far in.  I'm thinking that I'll reuse my stock 15x6 wheels which should be fine for the 10.5's.  The other option would be to get new wheels. Although I would want them to be 15x8's with something like 4.5-4.75" BS and be drilled for 5 on 4.5 as well as 5 on 5.5.  But that's $375 in extra costs for 5 new wheels.  They look like these.

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll4/IronWagon/DSCF0126_1.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on July 13, 2010, 10:34:39 PM
Pretty sure you will need to buy shafts that have a large enough flange for both patterns. I did anyway.  I do like the look with that wheel. Not sure I would go to 33's.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on July 14, 2010, 06:22:19 AM
I wouldn't trust a d44 with a V8. I say do a d44 front and 5.38's and 35's. Plenty of strength, good gearing for the 35's.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on July 14, 2010, 06:58:21 AM
That's the ultimate spare tire wheel!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on July 14, 2010, 10:12:28 AM
If you keep the 4-Banger, go to 5.13 gears.  I think you'll like it a lot more.  You may even not even want the 4:1 TC (well, maybe you will, but 5.13 is VERY nice!).

I like your spare idea, though...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on July 14, 2010, 12:14:16 PM
Pretty sure you will need to buy shafts that have a large enough flange for both patterns. I did anyway.  I do like the look with that wheel. Not sure I would go to 33's.
You can buy, from just about anywhere, spare shafts for my D44 that are drilled for 4.5" as well as 5.5".  They just didn't start till after I bought my shafts (Superior).

Like I said though, I'm not crawling much of anything these days.  I think 35's are a bit marginal for long distance driving as well.  They're nice for the trails but I'm looking for a bit more then just the trail at the end of the adventure.  I'm thinking more along the lines of a road trip with B or even C roads.  Maybe do the Trans American Trail http://www.transamtrail.com/ or head up to Alaska and run the Haul road to Prudhoe Bay.  That's probably one of the dream trips I'd love to do.

I wouldn't trust a d44 with a V8. I say do a d44 front and 5.38's and 35's. Plenty of strength, good gearing for the 35's.
Well, I'm really watching that VW swap.  I've looked into it last year but no one was making adapters then.  If you go into the Diesel Thread I've posted video of a Toyota with a VW swap.  If I did a V8, I'd keep it 100% stock and go with a 5.7L or maybe a 5.3L.  Nothing to big like the 6.2L.  Although what I'm thinking will happen is that I'll keep the 2.5L for a while then decide down the road.

If you keep the 4-Banger, go to 5.13 gears.  I think you'll like it a lot more.  You may even not even want the 4:1 TC (well, maybe you will, but 5.13 is VERY nice!).
I like your spare idea, though...
I've driven with 32's and 4.56's and the 33's are slightly taller but 2" narrower.  With the mods, I have, I think I could probably live with 4.56's.  Also, with an engine that has 100 more torques, it could easily make up the difference in gears.  But that's a wish.  I will eventually swap out the transfer case for at atlas though.  That's been the plan for a long time.  If I do that it will be a 4-speed so I'll have complete control over the gearing.

Not quite sure what you mean about my spare idea.  I want to run those wheels on all 4 corners.  The pic is of a 35" MTR, which I already have but what I want are the wheels.

A friend of mine drove a 4.0L with D44/D60's, 37's and 5.38's with wide Toyo's from CA to OK and said it sucked.  Not the Jeeps fault but it wasn't built to drive cross country.  I've driven mine on a couple thousand mile road trips and I have to say my Jeep doesn't like them much either.  Gearing and tires are the main culprit, I think.

(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs138.snc4/37257_423795516712_680046712_5058245_3186274_n.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on July 14, 2010, 04:56:40 PM
A friend of mine drove a 4.0L with D44/D60's, 37's and 5.38's with wide Toyo's from CA to OK and said it sucked.  Not the Jeeps fault but it wasn't built to drive cross country.  I've driven mine on a couple thousand mile road trips and I have to say my Jeep doesn't like them much either.  Gearing and tires are the main culprit, I think.

Well, I have driven my little 4-banger with 4.88 and 33X12.50's (as you know) from San José to Panama City (a bit under 600 miles with most of it on 2 lane roads, and about only a third of it on 4 lane highways).  It's not bad, especially the return trip, for which I fixed the cruise control (Audiovox aftermarket unit).  But still, I kept it most of the way on 4th gear.  It's not so much that I could not drive in 5th, but more so that in 4th, I did not need to worry about downshifting on hills.  Less driver fatigue (sounds stupid, but after 13 or 14 hours, it starts getting to you!).  Anyway, I am happy with the way my rig is working, as it lets me wheel around here, and make the long drive, and the long drive is good enough that my dad, who came with me on the return trip, wants to do it again (and he is 67!).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on July 14, 2010, 05:22:40 PM
Tire size is not necessarily what majes a Jeep road trip a weary experience.
It"s the  road noise from tires, flapping soft top and wind noise that makes it tough.
Gearing wise I am very happy with 35" tires,4.88 gears, 6 speed and 2.4l engine.
5.13 gears would be more of a choice for a better crawl ratio than anything else.
As it is my little yellow Jeep does very well for what it is, on the highway, on mountain roads as well as on it's favorite, them big gnarly rocks :lol:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on July 14, 2010, 07:39:55 PM
Well sometimes we have to reassess things.  In this case, I feel that less is more.  What do I mean?  When I bought the tires I was going on trails a lot more and the trails were with 30 minutes drive.  I'd drive to the trail, run it and then drive back home.  Now that I've moved, I'm not driving on much trails anymore.  95% is roads of some kind, paved and dirt.  In last 8 years things haven't changed much.  I'm using the Jeep as a regular car.  I only own one car and that's the Jeep.  I do not have the luxury of having another car right now so the Jeep pulls double duty.  And the need for new tires is coming.

If I change nothing else, I'll still reap many benefit.  Lighter tires means less wind-resistance.  Narrower tires have less roll-resistance as well.  The tires will also weight less so that's a lot of unsprung weight shed which helps acceleration, braking as well as not breaking.  Mileage goes up as well.  I don't think 33's will prevent me from trails like the Rubicon.  I don't really care about hard trails anymore.

Perhaps if I was going on trails every other week, I'd think differently.  It's nice to have a big jeep but living with it every day isn't always sunshine and rainbows.  I know this is going against most Jeepers.  Everyone wants to go big.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Eucalypta on July 15, 2010, 02:12:22 AM
Well sometimes we have to reassess things.  In this case, I feel that less is more.  
-------cut------
It's nice to have a big jeep but living with it every day isn't always sunshine and rainbows.  I know this is going against most Jeepers.  Everyone wants to go big.
:clap: Totally agree


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on July 15, 2010, 08:18:31 AM
It's nice to have a big jeep but living with it every day isn't always sunshine and rainbows.  I know this is going against most Jeepers.  Everyone wants to go big.

I have to agree with you here; I also built my Jeep for reliability, and long drives as well as some trails.  I find the little bugger to be more capable than I originally expected, and long drives are very doable.  Of course, AC helps me here, but you already mentioned adding this to yours, as does the hard top, which you already have (makes the ride that much quiter) and the Cruise Control (which I recommend if you plan on long road trips; it's an easy install and not that expensive - mine was something like $80 on Amazon).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on July 15, 2010, 11:28:53 AM
I hang out on a few other forums with international flavor and I've noticed the Jeeps on them are for the most part crawlers.  You mention TLC or LR and everyone congratulates you.  You mention Jeep and they ignore you.  For some reason Jeeps aren't really considered Expedition vehicles anymore.  Or maybe people are tired of seeing crawlers.

In any case, the only hurdle is seeing if the tires will clear with the stock 15x6's.  10.5's aren't that much narrower then 12.5's but I'm also losing 1" in the radius so I think they should fit without having to reduce my steering stops any.  If they don't clear then I'd rather buy new wheels then reduce my steering radius any more.

Oh my Kilby Enterprise Gas tank Skidplate arrived yesterday.  Too bad, I've got a full tank of gas in the Jeep so it will have to wait.  I'll also have to paint it since I got it without the powdercoating.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Mozman68 on July 15, 2010, 12:29:18 PM
Everyone wants to go big.



(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n254/faustus777/TheOffice-ThatsWhatSheSaid-Michael.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on July 15, 2010, 12:40:49 PM
I hang out on a few other forums with international flavor and I've noticed the Jeeps on them are for the most part crawlers.  You mention TLC or LR and everyone congratulates you.  You mention Jeep and they ignore you.  For some reason Jeeps aren't really considered Expedition vehicles anymore.  Or maybe people are tired of seeing crawlers.

A local jeeper does yearly expedition jeeping in various parts of Mexico.  His setup:

Rubicon TJ with 5.5 inch lift, 33 x 12.5 mud tires on beadlock wheels, winch, roof and rear racks.  He often goes with his family and the dog so most things are carried on the outside.  The beadlock wheels at first don't seem like such a great choice for an expedition Jeep but they have not caused him any trouble that I know of.  It doesn't take much to end up with a good expedition vehicle.



Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on July 15, 2010, 01:08:33 PM
He may actually use the beadlock feature because I recall he did one trip carrying a second spare tire not mounted on a rim.   But I have read many warnings against beadlocks for highway use.  Things like that you have to be tightening all those bolts to the right torque all the time and if you don't the tire could come off, etc.



Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on July 15, 2010, 01:40:12 PM
Beadlocks are fine for street driving. the original Jeep had split rims, was never a problem


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on July 16, 2010, 02:33:16 PM
Well sometimes we have to reassess things.  In this case, I feel that less is more.  What do I mean?  When I bought the tires I was going on trails a lot more and the trails were with 30 minutes drive.  I'd drive to the trail, run it and then drive back home.  Now that I've moved, I'm not driving on much trails anymore.  95% is roads of some kind, paved and dirt.  In last 8 years things haven't changed much.  I'm using the Jeep as a regular car.  I only own one car and that's the Jeep.  I do not have the luxury of having another car right now so the Jeep pulls double duty.  And the need for new tires is coming.

If I change nothing else, I'll still reap many benefit.  Lighter tires means less wind-resistance.  Narrower tires have less roll-resistance as well.  The tires will also weight less so that's a lot of unsprung weight shed which helps acceleration, braking as well as not breaking.  Mileage goes up as well.  I don't think 33's will prevent me from trails like the Rubicon.  I don't really care about hard trails anymore.

Perhaps if I was going on trails every other week, I'd think differently.  It's nice to have a big jeep but living with it every day isn't always sunshine and rainbows.  I know this is going against most Jeepers.  Everyone wants to go big.

The trend in my club is D60's and 40's. Now they are trailer queens. Personally I thing they should have spent the money on a buggy and kept there Jeep more steetable, to each his own I guess.
I started to get in the JV area but quickly realized the Jeep would take a severe beating in a short time. Plus I drive it everywhere so breaking down bad 3 hours from home is not what I wanted to get myself into on a regular basis. I look forward to the trips I have coming up in the next few weeks which are long and rocky. But I also like the easy stuff too.
I can see how you would want to do some epic road trips on some of the easier trails/dirt roads. I would love to do more expo type wheeling! I find myself being a bit jealous of Tsd in his upcoming trip. I would love to do the Mojave road. Maybe we could do that sometime.

I hang out on a few other forums with international flavor and I've noticed the Jeeps on them are for the most part crawlers.  You mention TLC or LR and everyone congratulates you.  You mention Jeep and they ignore you.  For some reason Jeeps aren't really considered Expedition vehicles anymore.  Or maybe people are tired of seeing crawlers.

Those other brands are well know for their expo type wheeling all over the world. I think a XJ would make a much better expo machine than a Wrangler.

You need to come up with a list of priorities for your upgrades. Then save up until you can buy/build whatever is needed. Then move onto the next upgrade. Personally I think a motor swap would be pretty low or not at all on my list. Mainly for cost and KISS.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on July 17, 2010, 02:56:42 AM
Well get some peeps together for a Mojave road trip. I am sure we can find a o few folks on myjeeprocks.com that will run it with you all. I am off the last week of October and up for dragging some camping gear down the desert


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Tsd on July 19, 2010, 06:06:42 PM
  I'd rather see the world then just go run a trail.

+1 on go see the world, every cent spent on traveling is money well spent.
Why stop at Mexico? you could drive all the way down the panamerican highway and make a stop in Santiago, I'll invite you to a Chilean asado (barbecue)
 :beers:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on August 02, 2010, 04:08:37 PM
So over the weekend, I installed my Kilby Enterprise gas tank skid.  It's been sitting in my front room for a few days since I can't really do anything till I'm low on gas.  (Takes me 3 weeks)

I was able to do the swap without having to remove the gas tank but I think that would have made things easier as it's a PITA to get the straps back on while under the Jeep.  I also was able to leave the gas filler on so no crap fell into the tank.  Overall it was pretty simple BUT that was probably because of my bolt-on exhaust.  Removing the exhaust tip and pushing the pipe out of the way made for a lot more room.  Which is why I was able to leave the filler neck on.

Overall, I'm happy with the skid.  I should have done it years ago.  Last time I was on the Rubicon, that's I remember hearing when dropping off the many small steps.  I was holding off till I decided on if I wanted to move the rear axle back or not.   I decided not to so I went ahead and got the skid.

I saved a few bucks by getting the skid unpainted.  Actually they powdercoat them but if it's getting scratched then I'd rather not have to deal with powdercoating.  Not to mention, when powdercoating chips and starts to rust, it turns purple and you have to strip all of it off to fix it.  So painting it was 1000x easier.

No bolts broke which was a good thing.  Although, I didn't realize how much rust is under the tank.  The mat just holds all of the water in place and it rusts out without you even knowing.

I didn't take any pictures of the install and I thought it was pretty straight forward anyway.  I'll take a pic of the skid to post later.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on August 02, 2010, 04:20:49 PM
They are a real tight squeeze to install with the exhaust in the way. Good thing yours could be removed. Do you think you gained some clearance underneath?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on August 02, 2010, 04:26:47 PM
They are a real tight squeeze to install with the exhaust in the way. Good thing yours could be removed. Do you think you gained some clearance underneath?
Probably not.  I know the TJ skid gives you an additional 1" but I don't believe it does on the YJ.  Although I did notice the skid is a lot skinnier then the OEM.  Going with aftermarket shackles usually causing some rubbing but this thing clears easily.  The skid is pretty tight, the tank isn't moving inside the skid.

The only thing you have to worry about are the vent lines on the top of the tank.  Those were easy to unplug though.  Actually one pulled out and I was left wondering where it came from.  Also, the line was placed under the strap for some stupid reason.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on August 03, 2010, 07:04:21 AM
It's a nice skid plate.  I've had one in since October 2009.  Pretty heavy, it would be nice to drill it full of holes in all non-critical areas.

How did you put it in without dropping the tank?   With straps under the tank?  Pretty amazing, actually.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on August 03, 2010, 10:59:46 AM
It's a nice skid plate.  I've had one in since October 2009.  Pretty heavy, it would be nice to drill it full of holes in all non-critical areas.

How did you put it in without dropping the tank?   With straps under the tank?  Pretty amazing, actually.
Yeah, straps on each side to hold the tank up then lower it into the skid.  I hooked the straps onto the rear cross member and the middle cross member.  I had to make sure the hooks were more inwards on the passenger side since easy for the strap to slip off since it's angled.   I made sure I had very little gas in the tank so it wasn't that bad.  It's more of a pain to deal with the awkward shape of the tank and moving it around between the leafs.

I was going to pick one up back in 2003 when I was visiting the shop but I got sidetracked and passed on it.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on August 24, 2010, 08:23:28 PM
Well, I washed the Jeep for the first time in 2 years.  Doesn't really look any cleaner.  At least I figured out where it's leaking from.  I'm going to have to drop the front windshield and use a thin coat of TRW under the windshield frame.  It's leaking on top of the seal.

Also took a pic of the skid plate.

(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/THSL8mDCYZI/AAAAAAAAOW4/UsL-GxFdcHg/s720/DSC_0119.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on August 24, 2010, 08:33:10 PM
Well, I washed the Jeep for the first time in 2 years.  Doesn't really look any cleaner.  At least I figured out where it's leaking from.  I'm going to have to drop the front windshield and use a thin coat of TRW under the windshield frame.  It's leaking on top of the seal.


i tried to seal that with silicone but it came apart fairly soon after i did it - what about the windshield urethane? would that be a better option? (just between the lip going upwards and the windshield frame)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on August 24, 2010, 09:18:04 PM
i tried to seal that with silicone but it came apart fairly soon after i did it - what about the windshield urethane? would that be a better option? (just between the lip going upwards and the windshield frame)
I've used silicon in the 'lip' that goes up before on my old seal.  it worked for a while but would leak as the seal was very old and cracked bad.  The seal is screwed to the bottom of the windshield frame.  I think I'll probably drop the windshield and unscrew the seal then add a thin layer of RTV to the underside of the windshield.  It's only leaking on the driverside a little but if there is constant water, it will eventually stream onto the floor.  The other option is to use petroleum jelly on the same area to seal it off.  This will eventually dry up but it won't be as big of a mess like RTV if I ever have to clean it up.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on August 25, 2010, 06:31:03 AM
In the skid plate picture it looks like you have some space between the shackle plate and bushing.  Is that some sort of spacer?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on August 25, 2010, 11:53:31 AM
In the skid plate picture it looks like you have some space between the shackle plate and bushing.  Is that some sort of spacer?
Just the metal sleeve.  The bushing shouldn't really be up against the shackle as that causes binding.  The gap looks big but I don't think my leafs are 100% centered in the shackle.  I'll have to go look at it later.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on August 25, 2010, 01:14:13 PM
On mine the shackle plates touch the bushings before it tightens down on the sleeve.  But what you say makes sense, it should bind less with the bushing free to slide a bit side to side on the sleeve.  I never thought about it before.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on August 25, 2010, 01:32:00 PM
On mine the shackle plates touch the bushings before it tightens down on the sleeve.  But what you say makes sense, it should bind less with the bushing free to slide a bit side to side on the sleeve.  I never thought about it before.
The stock shackles are punches so they wrap around the bushings.  So if you're using OE shackles and the sleeves are trimmed short, the shackle could be holding on by just the bushing which isn't good.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on August 25, 2010, 02:04:49 PM
I've got the RE greasable shackles.  The more I torque the bolts, the more the bushings compress, so they can't be tightening on the sleeve.  The shackle plates are pretty wide and seem to be made to sandwich part of the bushing between the leaf spring eye and the shackle plate. If the shackles plates tighten on the sleeve first, you should be able to torque all you want and never compress or bind the bushing (unless the sleeve bends or collapses).



Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on August 25, 2010, 05:03:00 PM
I've got the RE greasable shackles.  The more I torque the bolts, the more the bushings compress, so they can't be tightening on the sleeve.  The shackle plates are pretty wide and seem to be made to sandwich part of the bushing between the leaf spring eye and the shackle plate. If the shackles plates tighten on the sleeve first, you should be able to torque all you want and never compress or bind the bushing (unless the sleeve bends or collapses).
The sleeve is supposed to prevent the shackle from compressing the bushing.  All compressing the bushing does is stiffens the suspension.  This is also why people suggest torquing the shackle bolts to only 45lbs or so.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on September 08, 2010, 06:31:36 PM
Spent half the day taking the top off and dropping the windshield again.  This time, I think I fixed it for sure.  I used RTV on the windshield frame so it should seal any gaps in the cowl seal.  It's on the underside pocket so you can't see it and it's easy to clean if I ever have to redo it.  I also used petroleum Jelly on the cowl seal to help seal it also.  Didn't take any additional pics since I still have pics from when I originally replaced the seal.  Also had to readjust the top but I think I need to redo that as one of the door seals rubs against the top.

I found it really helpful to use tie-down straps to pull the windshield back and pull the top down.  This makes it possible to bolt the top down with only one person.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Mozman68 on September 09, 2010, 10:34:47 AM
This time, I think I fixed it for sure. 


 :roflol:



Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on September 09, 2010, 12:02:46 PM
I think i am going to weld my windshield frame to the tub :lol:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: 95yjman on October 01, 2010, 06:21:09 PM
cool gas tank skid! I know I have abused the heck outta my stock one.  I'm surprised at what all it can take at times.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on October 01, 2010, 06:49:41 PM
cool gas tank skid! I know I have abused the heck outta my stock one.  I'm surprised at what all it can take at times.
Well, I have a virgin stock plate if you want another one.  :lol:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 16, 2010, 11:02:24 PM
So, I finally stopped the leaking.  Or at least 95% of it.  I'm not certain if the water I found was from before or not.  In any case I can live with a little water as long as I'm not soaking my feet in it.

Ran into some other problems.  Blew the fuse for my fan for the second time.  Turns out I had my fan wired for Hi-speed for some reason.  Interesting that it takes maybe a year or so to blow a 30a fuse.  Actually it melts it and then the fuse fails.  I think the main problem is my fuse holder is crap.  I need to get a new one.  I think something happened and now it's arching and causing more resistance which is why it's heating up.  You can see where the clips are rusty now because of the heat treatment.  I need to get a better 30a holder.  Oh top of that I had to replace the relay.  One of the legs on the old one was a little loose which causes the fan to cycle on and off all the time.  This probably didn't help the connector at the fuse either.  I did get a new 40a relay though.  Again, interesting how it didn't spontaneously combust from running the high-speed.  Even once the amps settle, it's supposed to be pulling around 50a.

Oh and I also came across some thread on how to tell if you have a 2-speed or a 1-speed.  the easiest way to ID one is to look for a small inspection plate where the connector is on the motor.  If there is no inspection plate then it's a 2-speed.  I forget the year cut offs but I did find them as well.  Oh and here's a link to another fan that might be worth it to get.

http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135721

The guy sizes up a Taurus, MK8 and a HHR fan.  If the HHR fan is $50 at the Dealer then it's a smoking deal.  Haven't heard much about the fan though.  Looks nicer with the stiffer reinforced plastic too.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on November 17, 2010, 12:06:26 AM
Get an inline maxi fuse holder does a better job of handling the current, bigger spades on them and much larger contact area. Once a fuse holder gets hot like that it makes a poor connection and also the fan might drag a little. with the maxi fuse holder you can run a 40 amp fuse without issues and be happy


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on November 17, 2010, 07:47:08 AM
you can also get an auto-reset fuse


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 17, 2010, 01:02:52 PM
Well, I have a bunch of 30A fuses.  12 gauge wire should be able to handle 55a.  I think the cheap fuse holder is the problem though.

Looks like this:

(http://www.suncamper.com.au/parts/flexible-fuse-holder.jpg)

These are usually for 30a and less.  I don't think it has a rating.  I could move up to a 40a rated fuse holder with 10 gauge I suppose.  I was going to go with a weatherpack fuse holder this time as they are rated to 30a.


I thought about going with a autoreset breaker BUT the fuse holder is actually getting hot from the connection and not at the braking point.  This tells me there is a lot of resistance there for some reason.  Since the wires are sealed in the housing I can't see what's going on but I suspect some of the wires have broken.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on November 17, 2010, 03:46:20 PM
Buy a maxi fuse holder that is weather sealed use a 40 amp fuse and never look back. It does not matter what style smaller fuse holder you buy for the smaller spade fuses they will all fail in time. There just isn't enough contact area so they built resistance then the female spade end gets hot and looses it's grip which aggravates it even more


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on November 17, 2010, 08:30:21 PM
Buy a maxi fuse holder that is weather sealed use a 40 amp fuse and never look back. It does not matter what style smaller fuse holder you buy for the smaller spade fuses they will all fail in time. There just isn't enough contact area so they built resistance then the female spade end gets hot and looses it's grip which aggravates it even more

+1



Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on November 18, 2010, 06:32:12 PM
+2; that's what i currently run for my eFan when I use it with the relay (switch gives me the option to choose between the relay, which has a 40A maxi fuse in it, or the DC Controller).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 21, 2010, 01:58:43 PM
Spent about 30 minutes at the parts store trying to get all the parts together just to find out they don't have a maxi in stock.  Also, found some other issues with that setup.  The largest disconnects are 12-10 gauge.   Maxi fuse holders are usually 8 gauge.  So to get it to work, I'd have to step down the cable some how.  The counter guy in his 'wisdom' recommended using a weather pack disconnect.  Dumb idea as those are 18-12 gauge.  Good way to add a fusible link into the circuit.  I'll have to think about this some more.  Probably keep it at 10 gauge which is good for 55a.  Interesting thing I noticed was that the DCC and a few other builds, don't use a fuse but rather a fusible link.

Might be cheaper to just buy a amp install kit and use the wiring, fuse holder and such from that.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aka-justin on November 21, 2010, 02:36:50 PM
I have to run to the dealer tomorrow.  They have a whole selection of MAXI fuses on sale for $1 each (no holders).  I've been looking at them, but had no need.

Let me know, I can pick some up if you need.  I also have some parts to old ups batteries.  100 amp fuses and 10 GA quick disconnects.  You're welcome to those too.

-Justin

(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TOmQ6_fLJAI/AAAAAAAABcA/60h_Z6Adq-s/s640/IMG_1741.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 21, 2010, 05:09:49 PM
Thanks for the offer.  Still trying to figure out what I want to do.  I'm starting to think that I might run two circuits so I can split the load up with two 40a relays instead if just one.  It would still be a lot cheaper then getting an 80a relay, too.  It should draw less current that way.  Less of a chance of overheating connectors as well.  Still need to figure out the fuse though.  Need to find an electronic shop with parts bins.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on November 21, 2010, 06:24:54 PM
Try to find some 60 amp bosch relays they are a little bigger but very reliable


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 21, 2010, 06:42:09 PM
Try to find some 60 amp bosch relays they are a little bigger but very reliable
Didn't Bosch change to Tyco?

The only problem I'm having is finding disconnect terminals in 8 gauge.  10 gauge is easy to find.  I'll probably end up going with a good quality ATC fuse holder and not a cheap one like I had.  Then run some two relays in parallel to the fan.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on November 21, 2010, 07:00:41 PM
The relay, you would look for uses eyelets for the power wires
This is basically what I am talking about

http://compare.ebay.com/like/290499370197?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on November 21, 2010, 07:09:49 PM
Thanks for the offer.  Still trying to figure out what I want to do.  I'm starting to think that I might run two circuits so I can split the load up with two 40a relays instead if just one.  It would still be a lot cheaper then getting an 80a relay, too.  It should draw less current that way.  Less of a chance of overheating connectors as well.  Still need to figure out the fuse though.  Need to find an electronic shop with parts bins.

i got an 80Amp relay fairly cheap off eBay brand new for like $12 shipped

problem is that you won't really split the load over the 2 when they kick in or disengage which is when your problem probably is (or part of it) - there is no way to sync the relays so that the spike would occur on both at the same time, you'll still have one making contact ahead of the other


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 21, 2010, 07:27:50 PM
i got an 80Amp relay fairly cheap off eBay brand new for like $12 shipped

problem is that you won't really split the load over the 2 when they kick in or disengage which is when your problem probably is (or part of it) - there is no way to sync the relays so that the spike would occur on both at the same time, you'll still have one making contact ahead of the other
I'm still running on the Low-speed so it's not drawing nearly as many amps.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 21, 2010, 08:14:52 PM
The relay, you would look for uses eyelets for the power wires
This is basically what I am talking about

http://compare.ebay.com/like/290499370197?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
Might have to get one.  The eyelits are a lot nicer then dealing with disconnects.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 22, 2010, 09:06:26 PM
I think I'm gonna go with a 40a circuit breaker rather then deal with a fuse and fuse holder.  I noticed Painless and some others using them as well.  Seems a better idea since you're not limited to crappy blade connectors.  No fancy plugs to rattle loose either.

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21xzdJA%2BB%2BL._SL500_SL135_.jpg)

I also realized the way I have the thermostatic switch setup, it's getting beaten up.  No reason to really have it on the power side.  Need to move that to the switch side.   :wall:

Been driving for a month with no fan at all.   :lol:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 27, 2010, 03:39:42 PM
The relay came in and looks prefect.  Gotta figure out where to mount it though.  I bought some spools of 10 gauge and some rings and terminals.  So I'm ready to fix it!  Too bad I'm lazy and dont' feel like going outside.  I've been driving without the fan for two months now.  Jeep warms up when idling but doesn't overheat.  I haven't bought the 75A relay but I'll do the 40A for now and then replace it later.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 28, 2010, 04:22:48 PM
Well, I wired up the new CB and it looks nice.  I didn't want to drill more holes in my firewall so I used an existing one where my Alarm horn was.  Looks pretty clean.  Almost makes me want to redo the spider I have at the battery.  I should run an 8 gauge to an AUX fuse box then have everything go to that.  One of these days I'll clean it up.  I also rewired the thermostat so it's not on the fan side.  It's on the switch side where it should take less of a beating.  I should get a higher amp relay but I ran out of time so I'll stick with the 40A I have in there now.  I'll switch it out when it gets warmer.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aka-justin on November 28, 2010, 07:26:05 PM
Well, I wired up the new CB and it looks nice.  I didn't want to drill more holes in my firewall so I used an existing one where my Alarm horn was.  Looks pretty clean.  Almost makes me want to redo the spider I have at the battery.  I should run an 8 gauge to an AUX fuse box then have everything go to that.  One of these days I'll clean it up.  I also rewired the thermostat so it's not on the fan side.  It's on the switch side where it should take less of a beating.  I should get a higher amp relay but I ran out of time so I'll stick with the 40A I have in there now.  I'll switch it out when it gets warmer.

Where's the pic(s)?  I'm visual :blbl:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 28, 2010, 08:03:49 PM
Where's the pic(s)?  I'm visual :blbl:
I guess I could snap a picture of the circuit breaker.  I knew someone would be wanting pictures.  Maybe I'll do it tomorrow if I have time and it's not raining.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aka-justin on November 28, 2010, 08:14:26 PM
 :thumb:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 29, 2010, 02:54:28 PM
Here's the pics.  I really should add some loom to clean up the wiring.

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TPQeYeGMTII/AAAAAAAAOx0/lgMH12ZM4yE/s800/DSC_0268.jpg)

The first relay is for my lights which I don't have hooked up.  The second is for the fan.  It's a 40A.  The third thing is the thermostat for the fan cut off.  I currently have it wired to the 12v switched side so it turns on/off the relay instead of turning on/off the fan.  The terminal not connected is for the high-speed circuit.  I have it wired but not hooked up.  The 10 gauge wires are all soldered to the terminals and not crimped.  I didn't want to chance a poor connection again.

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TPQeXlALouI/AAAAAAAAOxs/PgnLBVboCFM/s800/DSC_0270.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: b.hog on November 29, 2010, 05:42:43 PM
I have been thinking of going with an aux fuse box also,but all I have found are the painless ones @ around 85 bucks.Have you found anything other then those?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on November 29, 2010, 06:44:27 PM
I have been thinking of going with an aux fuse box also,but all I have found are the painless ones  (at)  around 85 bucks.Have you found anything other then those?

i picked up another YJ harness (whatever was left, not complete) and am planning to use the PDC as the second fusebox (to be mounted right by the factory one). should give me plenty of options and relay slots to run the fan, additional lights, air compressor and whatever else i need - i figured it would also look stock.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 29, 2010, 06:55:54 PM
I have been thinking of going with an aux fuse box also,but all I have found are the painless ones  (at)  around 85 bucks.Have you found anything other then those?
Something like this: http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/productline/126


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: b.hog on November 29, 2010, 07:50:09 PM
Cool.I ended up finding those on amazon,but their description of items was really bland.That link was really helpfull.
 I am thinking 6 or 12 circuit.

  Thanks


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 30, 2010, 10:49:59 PM
Ugh, the fan works fine but something up with the thermal switch, I think.  Before it was starting up around 200* so basically as long as I was moving, the fan wouldn't run.  When I stopped, it would turn on a few seconds after.  Now, it seems to kick on at 212*.  I can't dial down the switch anymore and it's supposed to be switching on at 180* (at the radiator).  Not sure if I'll replace it just yet.  This seems to of happened after the fan stopped working in the Jeep overheated a bit which was a while back.  I'm sure since I had it on the fan side of the relay, it didn't like switching the fan on and off.

Oh and the controller went up $10 in price since when I bought it.  Oh and it's been just over a year so the warranty isn't in effect anymore.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on December 01, 2010, 12:12:24 AM
could be the thermostat too combined with the lower temps outside (so the probe doesn't get as hot as the coolant in the engine) - just a thought


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 01, 2010, 12:14:06 AM
could be the thermostat too combined with the lower temps outside (so the probe doesn't get as hot as the coolant in the engine) - just a thought
Yeah, could be that as well.  I also reseated it as it was sort of floating between the tubes.  At least the way it is, it won't turn on unless the engine really heats up which is never done.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 17, 2010, 07:47:35 PM
Damn you Scott!  because you mentioned the leak, it started leaking again!  This time from the cowl again.  So now I have to wait till late next week before I can fix it.  Maybe I'll just smear grease all over it.  I need to get the 3M stuff which is clear and run it all the way across, I think.  It's leaking on the driver side though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on December 17, 2010, 09:36:11 PM
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c331/FourbangerYJ/thread/Doh02.gif) That sucks! Don't blame me  :whistle:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 17, 2010, 09:48:19 PM
Have to find a paint-able sealant that flows.  Maybe I'll jsut use some silicone camp dry or something till it stops raining.  I've got to clean out all of the RTV before applying the new stuff.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on December 17, 2010, 09:50:49 PM
How about a tarp?  :wall:
These things are maddening! You think you have it fixed then next time it rains... back to square one.  :mad:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 17, 2010, 10:06:45 PM
How about a tarp?  :wall:
These things are maddening! You think you have it fixed then next time it rains... back to square one.  :mad:
Kinda hard to drive around with a tarp on.   :confused:

Funny thing is that it was raining so hard that people were driving slow and crashing into stuff.  PD was near my neighborhood and blocked the entrance.  Looked like someone may have taken the turn too fast and ate the hillside.  I drove by and couldn't see anything other then some crap in the road from trees.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on December 18, 2010, 05:36:59 AM
3M used to make some sealant for windshields that follows the water it will go where the water goes and then seal the leak that stuff is messy but seals really well


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 18, 2010, 01:16:05 PM
3M used to make some sealant for windshields that follows the water it will go where the water goes and then seal the leak that stuff is messy but seals really well
Yeah, they still make it.  If I tape up the area and apply that I think it will be OK.  I haven't looked to see if it's printable though.  I'm thinking no.  I'll have to check out the Kragens and maybe a body shop supply shop in the area.  If just for a temp, I could just use camp dry.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 18, 2010, 03:54:08 PM
Well, I got a chance to take a better look at it and it seems the RTV I used is holding so it must be coming from the cowl vent (again).  I taped it up around the edges so hopefully I'll be able to see if that is the problem.  When it was leaking it wasn't too bad.  Not enough water to even call a drink.  If that's the problem then I'll have to figure out something.  Maybe put a bead of caulk under the bezel.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 19, 2010, 09:23:32 PM
Ugh, more rain and more leaking.  I'm not sure what's leaking now.  I think the windshield cowl seal is leaking on the driver side.  It's the VIN plate that's not sealing properly I think.  I'm not sure what the water in the body seam is coming from.  I've got to tear apart the dash and see if I can figure out where the water is coming from.

What a PITA though.  I hate the rain forest feeling when sitting in the Jeep in the morning.  The steering wheel always feels nasty as the dried crud comes off in my hands.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: knotts89 on December 20, 2010, 07:32:17 PM
i read in a jp mag that the cowl i believe is wat its called behind the hood, can leak in through the air vents on tjs not sure about yours. They said u can upgrade to a later model cowl or get a air scoop from bushwacker and they said it would help but like i said that was for a tj hope this helps


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 20, 2010, 08:41:13 PM
i read in a jp mag that the cowl i believe is wat its called behind the hood, can leak in through the air vents on tjs not sure about yours. They said u can upgrade to a later model cowl or get a air scoop from bushwacker and they said it would help but like i said that was for a tj hope this helps
Yeah, it leaks for YJ's and CJ's as well.  The worse part is the whole pendulum is inside the passenger compartment  so if it leaks it going to leak directly into the Jeep.  I already have an air scoop which I got last year to help with the problem.  I don't really want to have to pull the pendulum out as that means pulling out my cage as well as the whole dash jsut to get to the top of the pendulum that sits under the vent opening in the cowl.  I'm definitely getting water coming in from the windshield frame seal as well though.  I'm trying to temp fix it so I can properly fix it once spring comes so I can pull the hardtop and drop the windshield.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on December 20, 2010, 08:44:35 PM
look for cracks between the windshield subframe and the cowl cover, also follow the seam down the sides there's another seam there where 3 pieces join, mine was leaking all the way down there, had to pull all the sealant out and put in urethane. Still leaks but that seam is fixed now, need to replace the gasket under the windshield frame.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 20, 2010, 08:49:13 PM
look for cracks between the windshield subframe and the cowl cover, also follow the seam down the sides there's another seam there where 3 pieces join, mine was leaking all the way down there, had to pull all the sealant out and put in urethane. Still leaks but that seam is fixed now, need to replace the gasket under the windshield frame.
You mean the cowl body seam.  Leaked from there last year.  RTV'ed it, still holding out.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 21, 2010, 02:36:59 PM
Well, since I don't really have time to fix it properly, I put a strip of duct tape across the top of the windshield seal.  That's where the majority of the water is coming from.  Somehow it's getting past the RTV I put on the seal.  The aftermarket seal is more like rubber while the OEM seal was more like foam.  It's a harder to get a good seal with the thick rubber seal as well.  I've got to use pull straps to compress the seal enough to bolt the windshield down.  They shouldn't have changed the material used.  The stock foam lasted 8-10 years anyway.

I also taped the cowl cent scoop down to the body so the opening is the only way water would be able to enter.  I sealed the screw holes with RTV last year as well.  Didn't bother to seal the whole duct to the body though.  Might have to think about doing that later.

I hate wasting time and money on stuff that should have been fixed the first time.  No wonder designers have almost eliminated the drop-down windshield.   :wall:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on December 21, 2010, 04:22:10 PM
Don't feel TOO bad; my dad took my Jeep to the shop so that they could (1) fix the water filtration issue, and (2) fix the hot air coming from the heater core when the heater was turned off.  Instead of fixiing anything, they stripped a bolt for my sport cage (which, byt the way, is HORRIBLY installed, because now it's not flush against the windhshield, which I now have to fix) and the solution for the heater issue was to simply disconnect all the heater controls so that I cannot turn on the heater or open the vent...  Also got to fix that now.  It seems my dad has very good intentions, but every time he tries to fix something he ends up making things worse.  unfortunately, since I leave the Jeep at his place 6 months out of the year, I cannot complain too much (lest he tells me to get the Jeep out of his place!).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 21, 2010, 04:31:08 PM
The trick to installing the side bars is to take the whole bar off then bolt the front on first.  This keeps you from stripping the stupid threads in the windshield.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on December 22, 2010, 06:29:15 AM
The trick to installing the side bars is to take the whole bar off then bolt the front on first.  This keeps you from stripping the stupid threads in the windshield.

I've always done it that way, but apparently, the "proffessionals" that did my Jeep were too stupid to figure that one out...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 22, 2010, 11:46:48 AM
I've always done it that way, but apparently, the "proffessionals" that did my Jeep were too stupid to figure that one out...
Yeah, I have one that is semi stripped because my Dad thought it just needed more torquing.

On the leaking front, it's still leaking from somewhere.  I've got the cowl vent taped up and the windshield seal taped up as well.  I'm finding water is still coming from some mystery place on the inside seam.  I think I'm going to have to tear into the dash some.  I have no clue where it's coming from at this point.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 22, 2010, 01:07:35 PM
Took all of the gauges out and I think I know where it's leaking from.  I think water is getting in from under the LH windshield hinge and then leaking in far enough that it goes to the windshield wiper harness which passes through the seal and instrument panel.  I'm going to have to see if I have any silicone to seal the seal to the windshield frame better...  I hate using silicone but there isn't much else I can use.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on December 22, 2010, 01:12:38 PM
I hope that's it. What a cluster*$ % ! trying to find that leak!

It's raining like a son of a gun right now!  :yikes:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 22, 2010, 04:20:44 PM
I hope that's it. What a cluster*$ % ! trying to find that leak!

It's raining like a son of a gun right now!  :yikes:
Well, I got it all back together.  I did see some signs of water inside the windshield frame but I'm not sure if it's leaking or it's seaming up from the seal.  I smeared silicone on the underside of the windshield frame so it should finally be sealed.  I know it was leaking past the seal by the windshield bracket and down my speaker face.  So I'm hoping that fixes it.  Otherwise I've got to pull the windshield cover/edging off and see if there is any leaking in the frame itself.  (The holes on the top for the soft top are sealed.  As are the holes down the sides.)

We're not expected to see rain again till Christmas so we'll see.  These leaks are a real PITA on older Jeeps.  I could probably write a book on it.  I've had leaking of some kind for 10 years now!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 24, 2010, 04:40:50 PM
Been thinking about tires again.  I had the Jeep hydroplane last month.  Luckily I shaved enough speed off and there was a median that I bumped off of to make the turn.  Front tires have maybe 1/4" tread left while the rear have a bit more.  Gonna have to get new tires next year I think.

At first I was thinking about going with 33x10.5R15's but Im currently running 35x12.5R15's and what I really want is something as tall but narrower.  Problem is there isn't any.  At least not for a 15" wheel.  SO, I think I'll be going to a 16" wheel.  There are a lot more narrower tires available in 16" and they have a pretty large selection, unlike how it was a few years back.

This brings up another problem, wheels.  Everyone has gone off to 17" wheels and Jeep has moved to 5 on 5" so you can't really use anything that's new.  Seems that Rubicon Moabs are a bit scarce as well.  Not sure if I want aluminum wheel or go with the more utilitarian steel wheels.  I'm leaning towards steel wheels though.

So, here's what I'm thinking.  For tires I'm thinking about going with 255.85R16's which depending on the tire are a bit bigger then 33" so it's more like a 34" but with a 10.5" section width which is pretty close to the actual height of my 35's.

Here's a 33x10 next to a 255.85

(http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/255-85/DSC02418.JPG)

For wheels, I'm been thinking about going with some cheap OEM 5 spoke steel wheels from an XJ.  You can but them for under $200 shipped.  Although I did find someone selling 5 Moab 16's locally for $100.  So very tempting but it being Xmas and such, money's a bit hard to come by.  :'(


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: knotts89 on December 25, 2010, 10:17:20 PM
no the feeling i need new tires bad, pretty sure thats y i have the death wobble but because of the holidays im trying to hold off. Debating on buyin the goodyear wrangler mt or bfg alt.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 26, 2010, 03:32:40 PM
Checked the Jeep after yesterday's all day of rain and found water on the floor.  Not too much but enough to see it.  So, I think my windshield frame is leaking on the driver side bottom corner.  SO I've got to pull the cover gasket off, clean it up then seal it.  Not gonna happen today though.  I"m probably going to tape the windshield and see if it stops first.

** used electrical tape so it doesn't look so bad.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 28, 2010, 08:57:29 PM
I have come to my senses so I'll probably not go p-metric.  I found some pics of some Jeeps with Moab's and 255's and it wasn't to my liking.   :uhoh:

(http://inlinethumb61.webshots.com/39804/2666811770069135097S425x425Q85.jpg)

I also noticed 35x12.5R15's cost less then most other sizes at Tirerack.com.  They're about $50 less then my old MT/R's and around $25 less then the new MT/R Kevlar.  I'm starting to like the looks of ARB's TJ which isn't much different then my Jeep other then being a TJ and having ARB stuff all over it.  I'll probably swap out my Warn YJ flares for TJ flares as they look nicer.  The ARB jeep looks too clean though.  It needs faded paint and mismatched doors.  :lol:  The wheels look to be Cragar 542 Beadlocks.  Cragar's seem to be considerable cheaper then ARE's as well.  Don't think I'll go through the hassle of beadlocks though.

(http://www.arb.com.au/media/products/3450070.jpg)

Oh yea, it's raining hard right now.  Looks like I'll know if my Jeep still leaks tomorrow.  I just realized I haven't posted this picture here.  Yet another project that I haven't gotten around to doing.

(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TAQRQkvEzVI/AAAAAAAAOQE/mFa-mm4oHyo/s720/DSC_0025.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on December 29, 2010, 12:26:45 PM
Are you still leaky?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 29, 2010, 01:23:37 PM
Are you still leaky?
I'm fine...  The Jeep on the other hand, still leaks.  I'm not certain where it's coming from.  It's running down the side of the cowl though.  Other then that I can't tell where exactly it's leaking from.  It's not leaking from the windshield seal anymore though.  At least not from the windshield side.  I'm not sure if water is getting under the seal and leaking though the wiper harness hole though the body.  It doesn't look like it's leaking through the windshield hinge.  They put enough sealant in the backside to stop just about anything.  I found about a shot worth of water inside.

If it was a bit warmer, I might be able to figure out what's leaking.  I've got till Saturday to do something.  Maybe I'll try taping the hinge up and see if that stops it.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 01, 2011, 03:44:04 PM
Checked on the Jeep after the new year rain.  I think I know where it's leaking now.  Seems to be leaking form UNDER the cowl seal.  I sealed the top side so it's not leaking from there.  I still find moisture on the cowl seam which if water runs will go form the windshield cowl seal to the seam.  It's the only place I don't have access to also.  Since it's 40* outside and raining duct tape won't stick to anything.  So I ended up taking a mallet and hammering the seal into the gap more.  The windshield seal was never perfect in that the underside stuck out a bit more then it should.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 02, 2011, 03:28:45 PM
So I'm still getting some leaks but at least it's nothing like how it was last year.  The gauges are dry and so is most of the wiring.  There is still s leak someplace though.  I'm starting to think it might be leaking from the passenger side, and running to the driver side.  I park with the curb on the starboard side.  So that's the high side.  (Rolled curb, not straight side.)  I couldn't get behind the glove box as there are 4 Phillips back there and it's a PITA to get to from the front.  I pulled the center cluster and it there is still moisture in the body seam.  (the seam on the underside is rolled into a J)  There is a 1" hole where you can access the seam from the center of the dash.  That's it.  The defroster blocks everything else so it's hard to say how far it's going.

At least I know it's not leaking from the top side of the windshield cowl seal as I smeared RTV all over it.  That only leaves the sides and the bottom.  One of the things I noticed with my new windshield seal was that it doesn't sit flush.  For some reason the bottom sticks out quite a bit.  I bought the seal from Qtec and I'm sure all of them are that way since there is probably only one company who actually makes these things.

(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TSDxauoIY2I/AAAAAAAAO1A/rCx0_YOPA0w/s720/CIMG1600.jpg)

If I leaned my windshield forward it would close the gap but that's not realistic as there is no way you can have the windshield that vertical and still have a top, any top on.  At least this seal doesn't leak as bad as my original one.  Although I don't really see why the seal needs to be so damn big anyway.  Although maybe they felt that the seal would degrade and the wind would push water into the seal...  Still, I don't think it can be much worse then what's there.

(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TSDxZo-ocuI/AAAAAAAAO00/VIqfiIkB9Yc/s512/CIMG1605.jpg)(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TSDxZwTQHGI/AAAAAAAAO04/nyioBmktV00/s720/CIMG1603.jpg)

You can see where the water is leaking from.  This is actually a common place for CJ's to rot.  (The chipped black paint is actually Duplicolor Truck Bed coating.)  Water collects at the roll cage support since it's a low spot but isn't able to drain.  I RTV'ed the foot pad before I bolted it down.  We had light rain so there wasn't that much on the floor.  Last year, the floor pan would have been under water.

Before I was able to tear into the dash, I thought it might be leaking from the cowl vent.  It was leaking from there last year, before I RTV'ed the screw holes.  So to make sure it wasn't leaking from here, I taped it up.  Only problem with this is that the heater doesn't work as well since it needs outside air to push through the ducting.  For some reason, they designed it so the heater isn't able to reuse cabin air.  Usually if it's leaking from the cowl vent, you'll get water dripping down onto the transmission hump.  Also, keep in mind that if you leave the vent open, there will be a direct opening into the driver side foot well from the cowl vent.  There are two flaps, the passenger side is the big one on the floor while the driver side is a smaller one up in the dash.  You'll also want to make sure the cowl vent drain isn't plugged.  The box only needs to fill up 1/2" before it starts cascading inside.

(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TSDxbmykTUI/AAAAAAAAO1M/UuROkdDY87U/s720/CIMG1594.jpg)

So getting back to the cowl seal.  With the top half sealed to the windshield frame there are only a few spots where water is able to leak in from.  The two sides where the hinges are and the underside of the seal itself.  I had taped up the driver side earlier but it was still leaking so it has to be elsewhere.  For good measure, I ended up taping the whole thing.

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TSDxZPxBCGI/AAAAAAAAO0w/zple3GGEcwo/s720/CIMG1606.jpg)

I should also mention that there is a small opening at the edge where the door meets with the windshield frame and body at the cowl seal.  You can usually see light out of it.  I ran some weatherstripping up the windshield frame and that helped to seal it.  You can feel the difference when closing the doors.  If it leaks from there, it will usually run down the face of the speaker and into the floor.  It's pretty easy to spot.  No leaks from there anymore...

Oh and the one annoying thing with the cowl scoop is that you can't lower the windshield.  Kinda dumb but it's not like I'm lowering it that often.  At least not when things aren't leaking.  The wiper hits the scoop.  One of these day's I'll get around to knocking out the hinge pins and install bolts so I can juts remove the windshield frame all together but that's another project.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on January 02, 2011, 04:18:23 PM
At least you have a smaller leak now. You have a lot of patients!  :eek:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on January 02, 2011, 07:36:49 PM
so did you actually locate this leak?

another thing it could be the windshield seal around the actual glass. causing it to leak into the windshield frame and out a seam in to your jeep.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 02, 2011, 08:20:58 PM
At least you have a smaller leak now. You have a lot of patients!  :eek:
Doesn't rain all the time.  :lol:

so did you actually locate this leak?

another thing it could be the windshield seal around the actual glass. causing it to leak into the windshield frame and out a seam in to your jeep.
Like I said before, windshield cowl seal...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 13, 2011, 07:58:50 PM
Well, I've resorted to taping up the windshield again and yes, it still leaks with no reduction in flow.  I'm starting to think it might be leaking from the wiper arm.  I still have the cowl seal and the hinge areas as well as the windshield taped up.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on January 14, 2011, 07:51:51 AM
Have you considred the seam on the side of the Jeep?  Mine used to leak from there until I sealed it with bathroom latex.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on January 14, 2011, 08:10:25 AM
so did you actually locate this leak?

another thing it could be the windshield seal around the actual glass. causing it to leak into the windshield frame and out a seam in to your jeep.



Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 14, 2011, 11:50:50 AM
Have you considred the seam on the side of the Jeep?  Mine used to leak from there until I sealed it with bathroom latex.
It's coming from higher up.  I can feel some water in the cowl seam but it's not coming from there.  I think it's coming from around the wiper motor area.  I can see moisture in the frame but I'm not sure where it's coming from exactly.  I taped up the windshield as a 'why the hell not' since I checked it before but it's not coming from there.  The cowl seal is also taped up as well as the hinges.  I can feel water on some of teh wiring that goes to the side.  I've got to tear apart the dash again I think.


I taped up the windshield, as in glass.  It still leaked.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on January 14, 2011, 12:51:08 PM
I've got to tear apart the dash again I think.

Shitty


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on January 15, 2011, 11:29:01 AM
It's coming from higher up.  I can feel some water in the cowl seam but it's not coming from there.  I think it's coming from around the wiper motor area.  I can see moisture in the frame but I'm not sure where it's coming from exactly.  I taped up the windshield as a 'why the hell not' since I checked it before but it's not coming from there.  The cowl seal is also taped up as well as the hinges.  I can feel water on some of teh wiring that goes to the side.  I've got to tear apart the dash again I think.
I taped up the windshield, as in glass.  It still leaked.

Try the baby powder trick; it's messy, but it will show you where the water is coming from...  Just cover the suspected area with baby powder, and the water will mark its trail...  Make sure to cover the seats, though, as its a real PITA to clean up later!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 15, 2011, 01:18:28 PM
Try the baby powder trick; it's messy, but it will show you where the water is coming from...  Just cover the suspected area with baby powder, and the water will mark its trail...  Make sure to cover the seats, though, as its a real PITA to clean up later!
That's kinda hard to do since it's behind the dash up high at the cowl seam.  I know where it's dripping down from and can trace it to the cowl seal but I can't see where it's coming from other then where it's going to that point.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 18, 2011, 05:06:14 PM
I should call this Project Sieve(y) Jeep.  Geez, this has been a longstanding problem.  I found water, yet again on the floor.  So, it's not coming from the windshield, cowl seal, hinges, cowl vent. washers, or wiper shafts.  It seems to be coming from the cowl seam, again.  Spent the say 'watering' the Jeep.  Tore apart the dash yet again and watched the water flow inside.  I still can't see where it's coming form exactly but it's using the channel created by the cowl seam to migrate to the driver side floor.  So it has to be leaking from the seam yet again.

So I pulled off all of the tape I had on the Jeep previously and reapplied some to the proper area.  Used electrical tape since it sticks well and doesn't look as ghetto as duct tape.

(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TTYlGGFcbYI/AAAAAAAAO9Q/_tgSmIdgcak/s800/DSC_0003.jpg)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TTYlGVIxKlI/AAAAAAAAO9U/aTJOC1NpYJw/s800/DSC_0002.jpg)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TTYlFahnUYI/AAAAAAAAO9M/w66_Nh26s08/s800/DSC_0011.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 18, 2011, 10:32:26 PM
Maybe I should explain the pictures a bit more.  The whole cowl area is what's between the hood and the windshield.  The area where the tape is is the end of the cowl.  The piece is removable to come extent.  The designers decided they didn't want to weld the body together there for some reason.  My guess is that it was easier to set the HVAC (heater and vents) into the body with it removed.  The panel is bent into a 'J' at the edge.  It gets tucked under the vertical panel and is sealed with a seam sealant.

(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TTYlGGFcbYI/AAAAAAAAO9Q/_tgSmIdgcak/s800/DSC_0003.jpg)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TTYlGVIxKlI/AAAAAAAAO9U/aTJOC1NpYJw/s800/DSC_0002.jpg)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TTYlFahnUYI/AAAAAAAAO9M/w66_Nh26s08/s800/DSC_0011.jpg)

The first two pictures are on the driver side with the speedometer and tach removed. The cowl seal is in the upper portion.  The cowl seam acts like a small aqueduct and water travels to the low side.  In my case it's the driver side as I'm parked on a curb.  The seam goes down the inside of the cowl till it hits a strengthening support.  This A shaped support is a common place to see rusted on a CJ and older YJ as this is were the water collects and can rust without being scene.

(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TSDxZwTQHGI/AAAAAAAAO04/nyioBmktV00/s720/CIMG1603.jpg)

It's really difficult to see exactly where it's leaking from as well.  The defroster duct covers the whole middle portion of the dash leaving you a 2" hole to see through.  Also, the passenger is locked in because of the grab bar.  There are 4 Phillip head screws on the backside that are just about impossible to remove without pulling the dash.  From what I can figure out, it's leaking from the middle of the cowl seal.  I had RTV'ed the seam but it's still leaking in someplace.  The proper thing to do would be to scrape the old calk out and then reapply some new stuff then prime and paint.  I easier way would be to get a liquid seam sealer that is runny.  There is a clear product on the market that is exactly that.  It's able to run into the cracks and seal the body back it.  Since it's clear it won't be as noticeable.

My solution was a quick and dirty way of doing it.  I use RTV... twice.  The first time I used some clear stuff and that left a mess as I didn't tape up the seam.  The second time I had to clean up the mess which also took off the paint in some areas.  The cowl seam seems to be lightly painted so using a Scotch pad might bring up the primer.  As another temp fix, I just put tape on it so I can see if that's the actual problem.  When spring comes I'll Dremel out the RTV and clean out the original sealer and then prime and paint.  Although the cowl and hood look pretty bad as it is.

So right now it's a waiting game to see if it leaks.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on January 19, 2011, 10:09:23 AM
I just HATE leakes!  I'm just glad I got mimne fixed; I was expecting a nightmare like you have had...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 19, 2011, 11:42:35 AM
I just HATE leakes!  I'm just glad I got mimne fixed; I was expecting a nightmare like you have had...
Not sire if I'd call it a nightmare.  It's more like a reoccurring dream that's slightly annoying.   :lol:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 30, 2011, 02:44:16 PM
Well, it rained all last night and into the day and is still raining on and off.  BUT the Jeep is dry inside!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on January 30, 2011, 03:13:07 PM
Well, it rained all last night and into the day and is still raining on and off.  BUT the Jeep is dry inside!

told ya is that stupid rubbery stuff in the seam. Scoop that out and refill with urethane body sealer (similar to the windshield one)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on January 30, 2011, 08:56:11 PM
told ya is that stupid rubbery stuff in the seam. Scoop that out and refill with urethane body sealer (similar to the windshield one)

(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TTYlFahnUYI/AAAAAAAAO9M/w66_Nh26s08/s800/DSC_0011.jpg)

was this what you did to fix it?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 30, 2011, 09:00:57 PM
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TTYlFahnUYI/AAAAAAAAO9M/w66_Nh26s08/s800/DSC_0011.jpg)

was this what you did to fix it?
Yes.  It stopped leaking after adding the tape to the cowl.  Over the RTV that's already there.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on January 30, 2011, 09:15:50 PM
Yes.  It stopped leaking after adding the tape to the cowl.  Over the RTV that's already there.

http://www.internationalepoxies.com/automotive_body_sealers.htm

i used something similar to the 1560 on that page, sticks like hell and won't come off or separate from sheetmetal, also fills larger gaps too. I put electrical tape on each side of the seam and ran my finger over (used gloves for that) once i filled the seam. took the tape off right after i finished running the finger over it (while is still unset and soft).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 30, 2011, 10:28:09 PM
I'm probably going to go with an actual seam sealer and do it right.  Probably buy some paint as well.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on January 31, 2011, 12:05:28 AM
I'm probably going to go with an actual seam sealer and do it right.  Probably buy some paint as well.

yeah, def paint over (i did that) - that is seam sealer and bonds properly with the metal, got the tip from a body shop guy, that's what they use on repairs when replacing panels that have seams. The factory one gets pressed between the parts, this one is a bit softer at the time you apply it and will fill the gap just fine.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on February 22, 2011, 11:25:41 AM
Well, it rained heavily with high winds and I found some water again.  I'm not sure if it's leaking past the tape or if it's getting blown in from the gaps in the door.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 14, 2011, 04:31:57 PM
Well, I can't seen to find the leak.  I think it's blowing in through the vent when it's really windy.  Otherwise, it doesn't leak.

On another front, I'm in negotiations with a got on CL for 5 2002/3 OEM 15x7 5-spoke wheels.  If I get these wheels I'll more then likely change from 35x12.5R15's to 33x10.5R15's.  I tossed around the idea of going with 31x10.5R15's but that would really limit me to certain trails which didn't seem worth it.  Wouldn't be able to run with the big dogs anymore if I went that small.   :doggy:
I'll know later this week if I get the wheels.  Good thing they're not sought after.   :lol:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 16, 2011, 10:42:02 PM
Well, it looks like the guy figured out no one really wants stock TJ steel wheels anymore.  He emailed me early saying to come and get them.  So I'll go pick them up tomorrow.  Then all I'll have to do is wait for BFG to make more tires.  Supposedly, the size isn't made year around and as such goes out of stock around this time of year.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 22, 2011, 04:00:47 PM
So I guess I should update this as I bought the wheels last week.  There is a little bit of rust on the edge of the rim of a few of the wheels.  I'll have to clean that up but it seems I have plenty of time to do that as no one has the tires I want in stock.

Here's the official word;
Quote
March 21, 2011

Hello Jeff,

Thank you for your email. We welcome the opportunity to serve you.

We have no stock available in the Mud Terrain T/A KM2 in a 33X10.50R15.  We also have quite a few backorders.  We apologize for the inconvenience.  This size went back into production 3/20/2011.  Please check back with us in a month.

We appreciate your business and thank you for choosing BFGoodrich.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TYJXdDzguuI/AAAAAAAAWjA/bG2VnKeNVTo/s800/DSC_0002.jpg)

So on a different front, I fixed another problem that for some reason came up.  My exhaust seems to have loosened up enough to slide back and not hits against the cross member fore the gas tank.  Fixed that today between the storms that we've been having here.  It's been raining just about every day with gaps of sun for an hour or three then back to overcast and rain.  I've had to deal with the noise for a month or so because of the rain.  Checked the gap and it was less then a fingers width.  Loosened up the clamps and gave it 2" of clearance.  Hopefully it will fix it.

There's also another problem that I've been having.  The Volt meter has been reading low.  It's at the 10v mark on the gauge with the ignition ON.  With the engine running it's at 14v.  I forget what the voltage was when I put the VOM on the battery.  My HAM has a voltage check and it reads 12v, IIRC.  I don't think it's a gauge problem though.  The alternator is charging the battery as I can hear the added noise when the alternator kicks in.  After driving it a bit it will stop.  So it's acting like the battery is draining.  It's an Optima Red Top 800U.  It's 13 years old.  It doesn't have any problems starting the Jeep up in the mornings even when it's been below freezing at night.  I'm suspecting it's the battery and not the Alternator as I replaced that a few years ago with a 170amp unit.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: 95yjman on April 22, 2011, 10:47:24 PM
are those off a liberty?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 23, 2011, 11:01:33 AM
are those off a liberty?
No.  Check out my Skinny tire thread and you'll see Liberty wheels.  These are 15x7 with 5.25" BS.  The Liberty  are 16x7 with 6.5" BS I believe. Unless you run spacers they will be really tight with anything over 31".

http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=9494.0

Right now I'km trying to sell some stuff to make room for the new tires.  I have the wheels and the tires have come back into stock.  I just need to get rid of my old tires and wheels.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 02, 2011, 08:19:34 PM
It's so small!   :lol:

The tires are covered by the stock flares which is exactly what I wanted. (notice they're stock and not my 7" Warns I usually have. I wasn't able to tell if the performance changed since I had all the extra weight inside as well as the Randy's Donuts up top.  I can tell it does feel different.  The tires are much softer and absorb bumps a lot better.  My speedometer seems to be 2-3MPh off at 40mph which isn't too bad.  I'll drop in my old speedometer gear and see how it does with the one I had for 32's.  The Jeep looks really small.  Even though they're 33's once you go to 35's anything smaller might as well be stock.  I also have to add some more washers to the steering stops.  It's really skinny as well.  I can probably squeeze between rocks I used to have to straddle.

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/Tb9uCH7OvZI/AAAAAAAAXz4/Lt6_kg7phqU/s800/DSC_0021.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/Tb9uAs0YKhI/AAAAAAAAXzY/vTWvYqxn-_Y/s800/DSC_0025.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/Tb9t-u8nKvI/AAAAAAAAXys/nY3TpEBwZ9w/s800/DSC_0030.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/Tb9uAJMOBXI/AAAAAAAAXzM/KCjpNWWlx40/s800/DSC_0026.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/Tb9t6s-YGFI/AAAAAAAAXyc/JXeJ09zzsQ0/s800/DSC_0032.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/Tb9xkuNYc1I/AAAAAAAAX38/a4qo0lLjqWQ/s800/DSC_0043.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/Tb9xjG9IkgI/AAAAAAAAX3Q/MlxP2zpGq5s/s800/DSC_0048.jpg)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/Tb9xgvkPVjI/AAAAAAAAX2Y/_wsQ9NUuGgs/s576/DSC_0059.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on May 02, 2011, 08:29:27 PM
I like the new look, especially the wheels...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on May 02, 2011, 08:39:17 PM
I would paint those a flat black, not sure why must be the wide spokes on them


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on May 02, 2011, 10:13:18 PM
Awe isn't it so cute with those tiny tires.  :wall: But seriously it looks great! I do like the look of the OE wheels. You should really like those tires. Should be a bit peppier too.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: knotts89 on May 02, 2011, 11:03:35 PM
just noticed the rack you have on your hard top and was wondering how you like it? I was looking at one for mine, by the way the new tires look good.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: chardrc on May 03, 2011, 07:26:13 AM
new tires and wheels look great.  :thumb:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on May 03, 2011, 07:48:09 AM
It looks great!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 03, 2011, 08:40:03 AM
I would paint those a flat black, not sure why must be the wide spokes on them
I didn't want to spend any money or time on the wheels.  They are as I picked them up.

Awe isn't it so cute with those tiny tires.  :wall: But seriously it looks great! I do like the look of the OE wheels. You should really like those tires. Should be a bit peppier too.
I have noticed how much quicker it is.  It's like a sports car in comparison.  It's quicker to accelerate as well as brake.  Lane changes are also very quick.  I think for a daily driver, it's a nice combo.  Especially with my 4.56's.  The tires seem to be a lot quieter then my MTR's.  There is very little road noise.

just noticed the rack you have on your hard top and was wondering how you like it? I was looking at one for mine, by the way the new tires look good.
It's an old Con-Ferr rack.  The company doesn't exist anymore.  The rack is good but a little heavy.  It has an extruded steel floor so stuff isn't sitting against the actual top.  I have looked at replacing it but it's not high on my list of things to do.  Garvin Wilderness makes a nice bolt-on rack that comes in 4" or 6" sides.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: WranglerCOdy on May 06, 2011, 05:08:20 AM
she is lookinggood my friend.  :hump:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on May 06, 2011, 03:06:35 PM
+1 on the rims vs the ones you were running!!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: stan98tj on May 06, 2011, 06:30:31 PM
i like the skinnier look. my next pair i think ill come down from 33x12 to 33x11 or 11.5 max.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: 95yjman on May 15, 2011, 11:47:36 PM
Looks good man! Do you still have a D30 up front or did you swap that out for a D44?  (I'm lazy and don't feel like going back through the tread to see if you did..you can slap me if you want)  :biggrin:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 16, 2011, 08:05:04 AM
Looks good man! Do you still have a D30 up front or did you swap that out for a D44?  (I'm lazy and don't feel like going back through the tread to see if you did..you can slap me if you want)  :biggrin:
Yes, I still have the D30 up front.  It has a Tru-Trac in it.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 16, 2011, 07:17:21 PM
Bought a new stereo for the Jeep.  There was nothing physically wrong with the old other other then not being iPod compatible.  Bought a new Alpine since they are one of the few mfg's. that makes a faceplate that doesn't look like the Vegas strip.  It's a Alpine CDE-121 CD Receiver.  Doubt I'll ever use the CD.  Has all the of features I want and none I don't, other then the CD player.  Works well and sounds a lot nicer now that I'm not using a FM modulator.  I bought it from Crutchfield since they supply the harness and any adapter brackets.  I really needed the DIN bracket as I was using the old rear hanger mount.  Didn't drill any additional holes even though you're supposed to drill one.  The bracket felt stiff enough and once the bezel was back on it was solid.  Splicing the two harnesses was a snap.  They're all soldered and shrink tubed then zip-tied together.  Probably could have cut an additional 4" off but I being able to plug in the receiver with the out of the dash.  Took half the day to install it since I had to align the bracket to the dash opening which required some modifications.  Overall, I like it though.  The install was clean and the deck sounds great.  I've heard some people complain about the screen not being able to display much but really, if you use playlists, it's easy to sort through the menu.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TdHXSkA3pNI/AAAAAAAAYEQ/hoebspwDwAg/s800/DSC_0041.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TdHXRpdnX3I/AAAAAAAAYEI/N72BuSTn5Vc/s800/DSC_0045.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TdHXQuGaokI/AAAAAAAAYEA/jf6eOXjvra4/s800/DSC_0047.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TdHXO00KeOI/AAAAAAAAYDw/Ki4dcKhdZLk/s800/DSC_0050.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: 95yjman on May 16, 2011, 08:56:19 PM
Thats the same one I have in my YJ! I like it, I still have the stock speakers in mine though..


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 16, 2011, 09:06:49 PM
Thats the same one I have in my YJ! I like it, I still have the stock speakers in mine though..
So far I really like it.  I'll have to get used to the nob.  I have Rockford Fosgate 4x6's in the dash and a Rockford Fosgate Punch 8" Sub in the back.  Sounds pretty good.  I want to switch to a 10" sub though.  The 10" sub is more the standard which mean they're also cheaper and I can lay a 10" down flat so it's not taking up much room on the floor.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on May 17, 2011, 03:58:01 PM
So far I really like it.  I'll have to get used to the nob.  I have Rockford Fosgate 4x6's in the dash and a Rockford Fosgate Punch 8" Sub in the back.  Sounds pretty good.  I want to switch to a 10" sub though.  The 10" sub is more the standard which mean they're also cheaper and I can lay a 10" down flat so it's not taking up much room on the floor.

lay down flat? do you have your rear seat out?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on May 17, 2011, 04:34:37 PM
lay down flat? do you have your rear seat out?

Seems like it; I have a small 10" thin profile one on my DD, and it will not lay flat back there with the seat on...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on May 17, 2011, 07:22:08 PM
Seems like it; I have a small 10" thin profile one on my DD, and it will not lay flat back there with the seat on...

I have a shallow 10 as well and it won't lay flat. that's why I was asking. I wanted to know what he was going to get that would give you more room!!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 17, 2011, 10:39:50 PM
I was thinking about using the floor space behind the front seats in a custom box.  Otherwise I could build the box into the rear drawers that I want to build.  Then I could stand it up.  It's pretty low on my list right now as I've got a few other things I need to fix.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: 95yjman on May 19, 2011, 11:47:14 PM
So far I really like it.  I'll have to get used to the nob.  I have Rockford Fosgate 4x6's in the dash and a Rockford Fosgate Punch 8" Sub in the back.  Sounds pretty good.  I want to switch to a 10" sub though.  The 10" sub is more the standard which mean they're also cheaper and I can lay a 10" down flat so it's not taking up much room on the floor.

Only thing I don't like is if you bump the volume nob when trying turn the radio up or down, it will change it to "sub" or what not.  I don't have a sub in my Jeep

95y"just has 4 speakers in his YJ"jman


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 20, 2011, 08:08:53 AM
Only thing I don't like is if you bump the volume nob when trying turn the radio up or down, it will change it to "sub" or what not.  I don't have a sub in my Jeep

95y"just has 4 speakers in his YJ"jman
Yeah, that's why I liked my old Alpine with the buttons.  Although I don't touch the radio much since I have it on AUX and control the music though the iPod. (iPod is on a TomTom mount so I can't control it with the receiver)  I do like how you can set the cutoffs for the treb and bass though.  I have caps in my front speakers since my old receiver couldn't do that.

I just have the 3-way since I never have anyone in the back.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on May 22, 2011, 05:42:22 PM
Only thing I don't like is if you bump the volume nob when trying turn the radio up or down, it will change it to "sub" or what not.  I don't have a sub in my Jeep

95y"just has 4 speakers in his YJ"jman

I got mine in a tuffy center security console and it's right at your finger tips I don't have that prob anymore and it's locked up & out of sight with the top off


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: b.hog on May 22, 2011, 06:04:06 PM
I would skip the 10 and build a down firing dual 8 box for the back.I had a 12 in mine before a 10 then built a dual 8 box,you can have the best of both worlds-decent sound and more free room.Most 8" subs just need a sealed box thats big enough to just have the speaker fit .24 cu ft. (i think,am a lil tired)
Ive got 4x6 infinity's ,fosgate 6.5" componets,and 2 fosgate 8 s and mine sounds pretty good.Not sure how that would fit with your future plans but just another idea.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 22, 2011, 06:36:03 PM
I would skip the 10 and build a down firing dual 8 box for the back.I had a 12 in mine before a 10 then built a dual 8 box,you can have the best of both worlds-decent sound and more free room.Most 8" subs just need a sealed box thats big enough to just have the speaker fit .24 cu ft. (i think,am a lil tired)
Ive got 4x6 infinity's ,fosgate 6.5" componets,and 2 fosgate 8 s and mine sounds pretty good.Not sure how that would fit with your future plans but just another idea.
Down firing 8's might be easier.  Either make a box on each wheel well or build a odd shaped box for in front of the step, behind the front seats.  My 8 is in a sealed box and is firing into the tailgate.  I'd like a bit more thump.  Although, I'm not sure how that's going to go with my other plans.

Right now, I'm having to rebuild the front brakes and then replace the battery.  2011 is becoming expensive for my Jeep.  Lots of stuff decided it was time to break.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 24, 2011, 04:30:14 PM
Ordered new Wagner rotors and Hawk HPS pads and they arrived in two days.  Hopefully if everything goes well, I'll have them installed tomorrow.

I jacked up my wrist last night some how and it's getting late in the day for me to do it today.  Tomorrow I'll have access to the garage even if it rains.  The new rotors are nice and pretty compared to my old ones.

The brakes are so bad that I can feel the metal wear indicators rubbing against the rotor through the pedal.  It's a bit unnerving.

Also, sold my 35's so their going away.  Sold my wheels a few weeks ago as well.  So once I have the brakes done I'll get a new battery then I should be done fixing things for a while.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 24, 2011, 05:16:58 PM
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TdxJjEYXDeI/AAAAAAAAYvk/DtdKTeS6hWg/s720/DSC_0014.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TdxJjprpUxI/AAAAAAAAYvs/o-0HvfoHEjI/s720/DSC_0011.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TdxJk--Nn4I/AAAAAAAAYwA/OcFDhDT5Cpk/s720/DSC_0003.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 25, 2011, 02:05:39 PM
Took my time and did the brakes in 4 hours.  Actually I flushed the front and took apart the brake lines while I was at it.  Ended up wasting my time with the brake lines since I couldn't get the twist out of them.  Not a big deal though.  Here's what was making the grinding noise.  :uhoh:  I didnt' realize these pads do not have wear indicators on them.  :whistle: :lol:

Here are the parts numbers:

  • Wagner BD125039 Disc Brake Rotor
  • Hawk Performance HB210F.677 HPS Brake Pad
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2GMDXPGQoyw/TdxJjEYXDeI/AAAAAAAAY1o/9KG_usAi-zg/s720/DSC_0014.jpg)

The rotor is toast but I expected it to be.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m8kj-TzuM3Y/Td1rdEidewI/AAAAAAAAY4k/XKdU-dcQfjc/s720/DSC_0005.jpg)

Here's part of what's left of the pad wedged in between the rotor and caliper.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dh2xpr_Lutc/Td1ramNvtbI/AAAAAAAAY4A/W86pS3O4vf0/s720/DSC_0009.jpg)

New and old
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EonoOGOHZzA/Td1rW-T7-pI/AAAAAAAAY3U/pSN6FFAjvVM/s720/DSC_0017.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7CP5IG4tWFc/Td1rVotGlTI/AAAAAAAAY3M/DBMB6uMJJKE/s720/DSC_0018.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QhZbBILR3To/Td1rSTQoDeI/AAAAAAAAY2o/gbXw1oV61zc/s512/DSC_0022.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bczuJRYA8sg/Td1rT_PL3JI/AAAAAAAAY24/uFYDalIrtts/s512/DSC_0020.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2LSBdZcLGLU/Td1rROV9C3I/AAAAAAAAY2g/dS2kOSsA_l0/s512/DSC_0023.jpg)(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qapG0xUalu0/Td1rPf3uP2I/AAAAAAAAY2I/f8Z2r2g4ccI/s512/DSC_0026.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on May 25, 2011, 04:30:56 PM
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c331/FourbangerYJ/thread/bling.gif) Looks pretty...good. How is the braking? I would imagine better.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 25, 2011, 04:35:30 PM
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c331/FourbangerYJ/thread/bling.gif) Looks pretty...good. How is the braking? I would imagine better.
The new rotors are bling but it's just how they're made.  I think they coat them now to keep them from rusting.  They're your basic OE Rotors.  Nothing fancy about them.  They're better then the composite OE rotors though.

Haven't driven it more then just around the block.  But there is no noise and it seems to brake better.  I need to seat the pads still.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on May 25, 2011, 06:07:33 PM
Took my time and did the brakes in 4 hours.  Actually I flushed the front and took apart the brake lines while I was at it.  Ended up wasting my time with the brake lines since I couldn't get the twist out of them.  Not a big deal though.  Here's what was making the grinding noise.  :uhoh:  I didnt' realize these pads do not have wear indicators on them.  :whistle: :lol:

Here are the parts numbers:

  • Wagner BD125039 Disc Brake Rotor
  • Hawk Performance HB210F.677 HPS Brake Pad
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2GMDXPGQoyw/TdxJjEYXDeI/AAAAAAAAY1o/9KG_usAi-zg/s720/DSC_0014.jpg)

The rotor is toast but I expected it to be.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m8kj-TzuM3Y/Td1rdEidewI/AAAAAAAAY4k/XKdU-dcQfjc/s720/DSC_0005.jpg)

Here's part of what's left of the pad wedged in between the rotor and caliper.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dh2xpr_Lutc/Td1ramNvtbI/AAAAAAAAY4A/W86pS3O4vf0/s720/DSC_0009.jpg)

New and old
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EonoOGOHZzA/Td1rW-T7-pI/AAAAAAAAY3U/pSN6FFAjvVM/s720/DSC_0017.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7CP5IG4tWFc/Td1rVotGlTI/AAAAAAAAY3M/DBMB6uMJJKE/s720/DSC_0018.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QhZbBILR3To/Td1rSTQoDeI/AAAAAAAAY2o/gbXw1oV61zc/s512/DSC_0022.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bczuJRYA8sg/Td1rT_PL3JI/AAAAAAAAY24/uFYDalIrtts/s512/DSC_0020.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2LSBdZcLGLU/Td1rROV9C3I/AAAAAAAAY2g/dS2kOSsA_l0/s512/DSC_0023.jpg)(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qapG0xUalu0/Td1rPf3uP2I/AAAAAAAAY2I/f8Z2r2g4ccI/s512/DSC_0026.jpg)

can't get over this was just noise while turning!!

also didn't you just have all the tires of getting new tires and no one took a peak at the front pads?

and I think it took ya 4 hours with all the pics you took.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 25, 2011, 06:56:47 PM
can't get over this was just noise while turning!!

also didn't you just have all the tires of getting new tires and no one took a peak at the front pads?

and I think it took ya 4 hours with all the pics you took.
Oh, I took a lot more pics actually, 40 or so.  Washed the garage floor and hand-washed my clothes too!

No noise unless I was turning right or under braking there was some chattering but only recently.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: 95yjman on May 29, 2011, 10:57:06 PM
Bet that thing stops a lot better now! heh my front drivers side caliper is hanging up.  gotta mess with that so I can drive the thing


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 30, 2011, 10:42:24 AM
Bet that thing stops a lot better now! heh my front drivers side caliper is hanging up.  gotta mess with that so I can drive the thing
It took several miles but I started noticing the brakes grabbing harder and harder with each stop.  After about 10 or so 30-0 mph stops they seem to be seated well.  I did a few 40-0 stops as well.  They grab a lot more then my old brakes and feel really firm which is really good.  I haven't tried to lock them up but I think they will at 40mph.  I still might try using a '95 dual diaphragm booster.  I probably don't need hydroboost anymore but that's also a consideration for later.

My calipers are A1 Cardon remans. from Kragen that I got for $12 with a core and has a lifetime warranty.  At that price, I felt it was better to just replace my calipers then to try to fix them.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on May 30, 2011, 10:46:04 AM
Sounds good, might try the same combo when it comes time to replace the pads.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on May 30, 2011, 10:49:37 AM
I still might try using a '95 dual diaphragm booster. 

If you pay for the shipping, I would be glad to ship you mine...  Dont need it now that I have hydroboost, and it was working just fine when I took it off!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on May 31, 2011, 12:58:15 PM
If you pay for the shipping, I would be glad to ship you mine...  Dont need it now that I have hydroboost, and it was working just fine when I took it off!
Is that the one where you had to modify the push rod?  I forget if the dual-diaphragm booster is drop-in or not.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on May 31, 2011, 01:58:47 PM
Is that the one where you had to modify the push rod?  I forget if the dual-diaphragm booster is drop-in or not.

I modified the push rod to make it adjustable length...  This would be drop in, and I have the master cilinder for it as well.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on July 06, 2011, 09:03:42 AM
Stop, hey what's that sound...

So, in my on again off again search for what's making the humming noise is coming to an end.  It wasn't the battery, even though it's older then some kids.  It's not the alternator either.  I'm 97% sure it's the secondary idler pulley used for my York.  It's a cheaper plastic pulley rather then the metal OE pulley.  I pressed my thumb against it and it rocks a little.  I can hear it flutter when I accelerate hard sometimes as well.  I'm gonna soak it in penetrating oil to see if the noise changes then replace it.  At least it's cheap.

We've been having a heat wave so I'm not keen on standing outside in +100* temps.  It's also making me think that I should consider installing AC next year.

I'll also mention that my gas mileage has jumped up a few points.  I'm going to have to put more miles on it to get a better average and also see what I can squeeze out of it.   So far I've managed a 16.5 MPG with the first tank and 17.3 MPG.  Most of it short 6 mile (x4) trips into town.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on July 06, 2011, 09:51:09 AM
it's like $12 or so for a metal one so i'd say just go for it. You can tell if it makes noise once you take it off and spin it you'd feel vibrations. or you can just take the belt off and spin pulleys, water pump and alternator by hand and see if/which makes noise.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on July 06, 2011, 10:07:34 AM
it's like $12 or so for a metal one so i'd say just go for it. You can tell if it makes noise once you take it off and spin it you'd feel vibrations. or you can just take the belt off and spin pulleys, water pump and alternator by hand and see if/which makes noise.
Yeah, I've had to replace the other one before.  Like I said this one rocks if I push against it.  I just have to wait till it cools down before I can go out there and take it apart.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on July 08, 2011, 04:20:11 AM
Take the belt that runs the york of if possible, if not take the belt of anyway and spin the idler pulleys if they spin really easy the grease came out of then and the bearings are shot. As far as milage goes ,y little put put does 16 mpg for all around driving about 5 miles street driving to work 2 miles highway and 3 miles street on the way back then throw in weekend driving to the mountains and about 30 miles of trail riding or so and I still end up with 16 mpg. Just highway driving at 52 to 55 miles per hour it will get 20 mpg easily


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on July 08, 2011, 08:03:06 AM
Take the belt that runs the york of if possible, if not take the belt of anyway and spin the idler pulleys if they spin really easy the grease came out of then and the bearings are shot. As far as milage goes ,y little put put does 16 mpg for all around driving about 5 miles street driving to work 2 miles highway and 3 miles street on the way back then throw in weekend driving to the mountains and about 30 miles of trail riding or so and I still end up with 16 mpg. Just highway driving at 52 to 55 miles per hour it will get 20 mpg easily
Well, I can't disconnect the belt as it's a serp..  But I was told and it looks to be right, if you turn the clutch on it will bypass the bearing as the whole clutch then rotates.  I still get the hum.

I'm going to try to take it apart today.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on July 08, 2011, 09:46:44 AM
you can put the short belt on (if you still have it) to bypass the york but from what you describe that's not the problem


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on July 08, 2011, 10:21:43 AM
you can put the short belt on (if you still have it) to bypass the york but from what you describe that's not the problem
I took it apart already.  The OE idler spins smoothly as well as the alternator.  The A/C idler makes some noise.  You can hear there is play in the bearings and it occasionally has a rough spot.  It's subtle but I think this is the culprit.

What a PITA though.  I get to idler out I had to pull my alternator out as well.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on July 08, 2011, 02:10:54 PM
Fixed it.  Turns out it may have been a few things.  I replaced the idler pulley as it wasn't spinning that smooth.  BUT the main problem seemed to be the rear bearing on my alternator.  So I ended up pulling the alternator twice.  Luckily I have my old 75A handy.  It's back in and quiet again.  Now I gotta figure out what I'm going to do with the alternator.  IIRC it had a lifetime warranty.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on July 08, 2011, 03:21:30 PM
Checked and it had a 2-year warranty.  That was 4 years ago...  So it's time to get another I guess.  Seems the 17A I had is still available.  They also have a 160a which is an OE application.  I can get a lifetime warranty from the local parts store BUT they only have 120A and 136A and they're about $50 more then the 160A-170A.  I would buy 3 and have change compared to a Power master or Mean Green.  Don't see that happening.  Decisions, decisions...

Oh here's a new link to the place I got my 170A as I need to fix the one in the Alt. Thread - http://myworld.ebay.com/starters-alternators


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on July 08, 2011, 04:35:23 PM
Checked and it had a 2-year warranty.  That was 4 years ago...  So it's time to get another I guess.  Seems the 17A I had is still available.  They also have a 160a which is an OE application.  I can get a lifetime warranty from the local parts store BUT they only have 120A and 136A and they're about $50 more then the 160A-170A.  I would buy 3 and have change compared to a Power master or Mean Green.  Don't see that happening.  Decisions, decisions...

Oh here's a new link to the place I got my 170A as I need to fix the one in the Alt. Thread - http://myworld.ebay.com/starters-alternators

can't the bearing be replaced?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on July 08, 2011, 04:43:53 PM
can't the bearing be replaced?
Not sure how much that's going to be.  I haven't taken apart an alternator in ages.  The nearest shop isn't that near either.  I'd want to have both bearings replaced.

I might see if I can get a core price if I get it from the same place though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on July 08, 2011, 05:15:36 PM
Been wanting to do this for a while now.  Replace that plastic idler pulley with a metal one.  The bearing was going out on it and it was a cheap fix.  $13 at Napa.  76mm 10mm bushing- https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=NBH38043_0158816300&An=0

I believe it's the same idler you would use on a 4.0L with AC which makes it easy to source.  The original was was a plastic Dayco.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yqwrCxO6kgY/TheaXHH0VYI/AAAAAAAAZGs/Xjg3C2-xTVA/s800/CIMG1657.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HgpAua4DZjc/Thead2tp73I/AAAAAAAAZG0/gg3jV3U7beM/s800/CIMG1659.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9NbeuCmWp9U/Theah4IJMLI/AAAAAAAAZG8/Tp5TBnCFdNw/s800/CIMG1661.JPG)

And the 75A Alternator is back in again.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SaJQ3pXD2_g/TheaqI8T0dI/AAAAAAAAZHE/FGZt_p0L02Q/s800/CIMG1664.JPG)

Oh and here's my vintage Optima 800U

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7BtnYOfLD70/Theazcr5RvI/AAAAAAAAZHU/FVo8bF-LcDo/s800/CIMG1667.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on July 12, 2011, 07:30:24 PM
Well with the alternator quiet I can hear all kinds of things.  One of them are my rockers or valves.  I think it's probably normal to have some noise but I'm getting paranoid since I couldn't hear them before.  :hahaha: :uhoh:  While I was there I checked my oil and it smelled and was black.  I noticed some spray all over the top of the valve cover.  Turns out my fan didn't turn on and the engine overheated and vaporized some oil and it condensed all over the valve cover and Fresh air tube.  I need to keep an eye on that or else fix the switch so the plugs can't come off so easily.

When I went to the parts store they were out of Mobile 1 5w30.  Ended up spending more and getting Castrol Edge with Syntec.  The old guy said oil prices have jumped about 12% in the last few months.  Spent $8.53 a qt.   :yikes:  Bought the Napa Gold/WIX PH8A filter as well.  I really like going to the NAPA in town since it's manned by a bunch of old guys and has been there for ages.  Bought the pulley there earlier and it was $1 cheaper then online said.

Anyway, thanks to the Fram Sure-drain I was able to sit inside while the oil drained into an older 5qt bottle.  The filter came off without a mess as well.  Took 5 qt's and started up fine without any leaks.  Still has the very light valve clatter which I'm going to have to convince myself it's normal.   :lol:  I don't remember what it sounded like before.

Been thinking that the next step is to install AC.  Been contacting ACKits in AZ and JeepAir.com.  AC kits don't sell an OE compressor with their retrofit kits.  JeepAir said they would be happy to.  I think JeepAir is where I'll be shopping.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on July 12, 2011, 08:17:39 PM
Been thinking that the next step is to install AC.  Been contacting ACKits in AZ and JeepAir.com.  AC kits don't sell an OE compressor with their retrofit kits.  JeepAir said they would be happy to.  I think JeepAir is where I'll be shopping.

That kind of reminds me that I have to get my AC checked; sometimes the compressor clutch seems no the get activated (nothing a little whack of a large screwdriver handle cant fix, but it is a bit of a PITA to be pulling over to hit the AC compressor 3 or 4 times during a road trip!).  My guess is that there is a bunch of mud in there as well, but I will have to check!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on July 12, 2011, 08:23:30 PM
That kind of reminds me that I have to get my AC checked; sometimes the compressor clutch seems no the get activated (nothing a little whack of a large screwdriver handle cant fix, but it is a bit of a PITA to be pulling over to hit the AC compressor 3 or 4 times during a road trip!).  My guess is that there is a bunch of mud in there as well, but I will have to check!
I should mention that one of the reasons I need an OE compressor is that I'm going to reuse my York and will need to switch brackets.  I have the main parts but I'll need to contact Kilby for an AC bracket that I don't have.  I have both a V belt as well as a serp. belt clutch for mine.

The clutches are easy to replace.  I'd guess there's a lose connection in the magnet if it works when you give it a wack.  It's good to wash out the clutch as you can rust up the clutch from the inside.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on August 06, 2011, 03:10:51 PM
Jeep just turned over 77,000 miles!  Got around to replacing the catylitic convertor gasket and all seems back to normal.  Also noticed the TQ band changed since it's not leaking anymore.  I think I'm going to take the front driveshaft out.  I think one of the U-joints is dry.  Might as well replace the U-joints since I have them.

Then the next big project is adding AC.  I'll be ordering it in the coming months.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eJm_woRVon8/Tj3S_ci9_HI/AAAAAAAAbXQ/uXiiYdUlTYo/s912/2011_ComicCon-0552.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on August 06, 2011, 06:50:50 PM
Jeep just turned over 77,000 miles!  Got around to replacing the catylitic convertor gasket and all seems back to normal.  Also noticed the TQ band changed since it's not leaking anymore.  I think I'm going to take the front driveshaft out.  I think one of the U-joints is dry.  Might as well replace the U-joints since I have them.

Then the next big project is adding AC.  I'll be ordering it in the coming months.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eJm_woRVon8/Tj3S_ci9_HI/AAAAAAAAbXQ/uXiiYdUlTYo/s912/2011_ComicCon-0552.jpg)

still a baby.  I rolled over 125 last year



Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on August 06, 2011, 06:51:48 PM
still a baby.  I rolled over 125 last year


Yup!  But all my miles.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on August 06, 2011, 06:55:10 PM
still a baby.  I rolled over 125 last year



I have 136k on mine...  But I bought it at 113K...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on August 06, 2011, 11:37:37 PM
I have 79900 right now. Next trip will push her over 80K.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: grumpygy on August 07, 2011, 09:52:07 AM
You all need to get out and drive some more.  Have not really driven  mine in the last 5 years and still I have 158,000 most are my miles as I bought it in 94 with around 10,000 miles on it.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on August 07, 2011, 10:30:49 AM
You all need to get out and drive some more.  Have not really driven  mine in the last 5 years and still I have 158,000 most are my miles as I bought it in 94 with around 10,000 miles on it.
I was putting a lot of miles on my Jeep when I was driving a 40 mile commute.  Now that I don't commute far, I don't rack up the miles.  The Jeep is still my only car as well.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on August 07, 2011, 05:38:55 PM
I was putting a lot of miles on my Jeep when I was driving a 40 mile commute.  Now that I don't commute far, I don't rack up the miles.  The Jeep is still my only car as well.

cool I'm the same now to just a few blocks from work now. keeps the miles down.. and we drive my wife car on long trips anyway for mpg's


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on August 07, 2011, 06:58:20 PM
Kinda like me I have this long 4.9 mile commute, life is tough sometimes lol


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Eucalypta on August 09, 2011, 05:58:24 AM
Hmmmm 75 mile commute, but I do not use the Wrangler for that...
Have a nice SEAT Alhambra with a diesel engine....

Our Jeep has 127k in Km on the clock....


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on August 09, 2011, 08:22:15 AM
Hmmmm 75 mile commute

you must be working in Germany  :wall:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on August 09, 2011, 01:28:33 PM
you must be working in Germany  :wall:
Nope, it's neighbor the Metherlands


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on August 09, 2011, 02:31:53 PM
Nope, it's neighbor the Metherlands
that was my point, after 75 miles he'd be in Germany  :lol:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on August 09, 2011, 04:00:59 PM
Or Belgium :driving:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Eucalypta on August 10, 2011, 05:48:54 AM
Nope, it's neighbor the Metherlands
Nope, I live near Arnhem (near German Border) and work in Vleuten (near Utrecht)
The milage isnt that bad but the traffic!!!
It takes sometimes over 2 hours to get in the office.

Glad I can work a lot from home ;)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on August 10, 2011, 07:37:47 PM
Well, I took a short drive with the doors off.  This 'Summer' has been so mild that I haven't really had the need to take the top off.  The biggest erk is the humidity caused by the cold morning that warm up to the 90's by the early afternoon.  At least it hasn't been over 100 much.  I can't roll down the windows while driving because of the cage.  With the doors off I was able to listen for any out of the ordinary noises which there was none.

Also, ended up disconnecting my exhaust to adjust it again.  It's kind of a PITA but ever time I disconnect it like when I replaced the cat gasket, I have to adjust everything so it doesn't rattle.  Being able to adjust it is a big plus though since it's all bolt-on.

Still looking into adding AC to the Jeep.  Hopefully, I'll have it before winter comes around.  Then I'll be able to do long trips a lot more comfortably.  Gotta go to LA early next year.  Might take the Jeep instead of renting a car if I have it up and running.  That will be around 370 miles plus whatever additional driving we do once we're down there.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 02, 2011, 09:24:27 PM
Still waiting to hear if my AC setup has shipped.  It's been almost a month now.  For some reason they're waiting on the compressors.

In the meantime,

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4TJRQYwaAac/TrFZ9aGPo0I/AAAAAAAAdxA/wAR1ndLQcvM/h301/11%2B-%2B1)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on November 02, 2011, 11:33:46 PM
In the meantime,

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4TJRQYwaAac/TrFZ9aGPo0I/AAAAAAAAdxA/wAR1ndLQcvM/h301/11%2B-%2B1)

134 miles on 1 tank?  :wall:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: chardrc on November 03, 2011, 09:03:40 AM
78k miles low millage jeep for sure. just hit 161k miles on my jeep this year and 180k on my s10 today. you've got many a mile left in that 4 banger.  :driving:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 03, 2011, 12:02:09 PM
134 miles on 1 tank?  :wall:
Not even half a tank actually.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on November 03, 2011, 06:04:19 PM
Not even half a tank actually.

i was just being funny as in what you're trying to show in that picture...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on November 03, 2011, 07:31:11 PM
i was just being funny as in what you're trying to show in that picture...
Oh, I got it...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 29, 2011, 04:38:31 PM
Boxes finally arrived, almost 4 months after I ordered them.  Since it was bought without the compressor, I'm going to have to figure out how to crimp the lines as well as rig up my Kilby OBA.  Good thing I already have the secondary idler pulley.  I need to buy some bolts as well as a new belt, I think.  I'll try it out with my current belt although it's 4" longer then the OEM.

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oW9L8y2krIE/Tvz2SBlJciI/AAAAAAAAeBY/bPV4tZgDtV4/s800/IMG_0281.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IH5FLOsgQwE/Tvz2d8ZmNCI/AAAAAAAAeCI/JYSJtp-R4nI/s800/IMG_0284.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bd3maPM-Vvk/Tvz2clypZCI/AAAAAAAAeCA/fqT0KYWupCI/s800/IMG_0285.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ft5MSVOxF6U/Tvz2Yqx9qEI/AAAAAAAAeBw/qH_WVDKynKA/s800/IMG_0282.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yEmsM_zIGvM/Tvz2V9AQWmI/AAAAAAAAeDA/vhayuumhzFU/s800/IMG_0286.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-L5NncxLRKYo/Tvz2au0xeVI/AAAAAAAAeDE/NpJ6uHxAhF8/s800/IMG_0287.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on December 29, 2011, 05:26:25 PM
ouch, the hoses are not crimped?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 29, 2011, 06:14:27 PM
ouch, the hoses are not crimped?
Nope!  Happens with custom kits which is what this is.  Basically they give you everything minus the compressor bits.  If it comes to it, I can buy a crimper for $150.  I did save $50 for not getting the regular kit though.  I'll have to see if I can rent one or find someone with one.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on December 29, 2011, 07:03:27 PM
Why not simply figure out the length of the hoses and how the fittings need to be indexed and then have an AC place crimp the hoses for ya


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 29, 2011, 07:24:56 PM
Why not simply figure out the length of the hoses and how the fittings need to be indexed and then have an AC place crimp the hoses for ya
I'm planning on mocking it all up before hand.  If I can get an AC shop to crimp them, then I'll do that.  I see them to vacuum test the system and charge it anyway.  If not I'll just buy the tool.  If I do an engine swap, I'll have to do it over again.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: stan98tj on December 29, 2011, 07:40:37 PM
Not even half a tank actually.
134 is pretty much a tank for me...unless i fill it passed the 15 gallon "limit" to the 20 gallon capacity.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 29, 2011, 10:43:10 PM
134 is pretty much a tank for me...unless i fill it passed the 15 gallon "limit" to the 20 gallon capacity.
On average I get about 300 miles with a bit left.  I've pushed it to around 325 and still had 1-2 gallons left.  Although that was with 35's.  I'm sure I can squeeze a bit more out of it if I did a long road trip.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: stan98tj on December 29, 2011, 10:50:10 PM
On average I get about 300 miles with a bit left.  I've pushed it to around 325 and still had 1-2 gallons left.  Although that was with 35's.  I'm sure I can squeeze a bit more out of it if I did a long road trip.
15 gallon tank or 20?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on December 29, 2011, 10:54:36 PM
15 gallon tank or 20?
20


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 03, 2012, 04:57:35 PM
You would think that since you're just bolting the duct and stuff to the underside of the dash, i would be easy.  It's not!  You have to cram everything up under the dash.  The motor is the biggest problem.  I have it all bolted up but the expansion valve it right up against the vent duct.  I think that's my biggest clearance issue.  I'm hoping this is the hardest part of the install.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-w16zAT27Mh0/TwOVSZsrTnI/AAAAAAAAeEg/98LLXKuYSKM/s800/IMG_0303.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aka-justin on January 03, 2012, 05:00:17 PM
Lookin sweet


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on January 03, 2012, 06:57:30 PM
Looks good so far.
Your Jeep is so clean. You should be ashamed!  :wall:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 03, 2012, 07:45:17 PM
Looks good so far.
Your Jeep is so clean. You should be ashamed!  :wall:
There were some crushed leafs but I cleaned that up.

I was looking at the grommets for the AC lines and they're HUGE!  I better get the hole placement right the first time.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on January 03, 2012, 08:59:02 PM
There were some crushed leafs but I cleaned that up.

that interior looks like it just came out of the factory floor

somehow i have the feeling you didn't really need to reinstall the ashtray  :wall:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 03, 2012, 09:55:52 PM
that interior looks like it just came out of the factory floor

somehow i have the feeling you didn't really need to reinstall the ashtray  :wall:
Nope, it's clean.  Holds a book of matches though.  I'll have to check and see where I put the lighter though.  The power isn't hooked up since I was in a rush and don't use it anyway.  I might just remove it all together but the location is OE.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 06, 2012, 03:01:08 PM
I've been putting this off for years.  I rebuilt the rear one last year or maybe it was the year before.  I know this one is worse because of the pinion angle before I went SOA.  Its been making noise and vibrations at highway speeds.  I should also fix that leaking pinion seal.  Been putting that off for years as well.  I bought a new seal back in 2002...   :wall:

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-giO6IQMnRk0/TwduCZ0WzqI/AAAAAAAAeGM/io7KU8v2Nk8/s800/IMG_0309.JPG)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9fED70IBrIk/TwduDJbSkCI/AAAAAAAAeGM/GZLz7V5CHUk/s800/IMG_0311.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on January 06, 2012, 03:21:37 PM
why is your downpipe under the bellhousing?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 06, 2012, 03:29:52 PM
why is your downpipe under the bellhousing?
That's how they made them.  ie. stock.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on January 06, 2012, 05:13:29 PM
That's how they made them.  ie. stock.

Mine goes under the oil pan...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on January 06, 2012, 06:01:51 PM
mine is between the oil pan and the inspection cover on the bellhousing.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 06, 2012, 06:09:33 PM
Mine goes under the oil pan...
mine is between the oil pan and the inspection cover on the bellhousing.
Like I said, it's stock.  I would have liked it to have gone under the oil pan but it's hasn't been an issue.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on January 06, 2012, 07:21:01 PM
mine is the same as jeffy's and I got the pacesetter header on it now to and it bolts to existing stock piping


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on January 06, 2012, 08:10:08 PM
mine is the same as jeffy's and I got the pacesetter header on it now to and it bolts to existing stock piping

i've got the pacesetter and is still between the oil pan and bellhousing with the pacesetter downpipe (stock was there also). that's weird, so your pacesetter downpipe is routed like Jeffy's?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on January 06, 2012, 08:11:46 PM
i've got the pacesetter and is still between the oil pan and bellhousing with the pacesetter downpipe (stock was there also). that's weird, so your pacesetter downpipe is routed like Jeffy's?

not sure mine is the same as stock anyway. might just go where stock was

really the header would make no diff it would all be in the downpipe


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on January 06, 2012, 09:19:27 PM
not sure mine is the same as stock anyway. might just go where stock was

really the header would make no diff it would all be in the downpipe

you're right, the header won't make a diff, just surprised as i didn't think pacesetter had 2 different downpipes for YJ (mine came with a downpipe, i assume your pacesetter had one as well).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on January 06, 2012, 10:07:05 PM
you're right, the header won't make a diff, just surprised as i didn't think pacesetter had 2 different downpipes for YJ (mine came with a downpipe, i assume your pacesetter had one as well).

maybe

I could check tomorrow the picture I have of mine might have been from before the header


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Torch_Ind on January 07, 2012, 01:40:56 PM
maybe

I could check tomorrow the picture I have of mine might have been from before the header

I checked today sharp and your right my pacesetter one goes not far behind my oil plug. been under there so long I forgot!!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 07, 2012, 04:57:44 PM
Drove the Jeep around without the driveshaft.  I have to say it's actually eerily quiet.  No ball bearings in a coffee can when I let off at 65-70MPH.  Luckily I bought 4 Spicer U-Joints when I did.  I think I paid $8 each, too!  Gonna take the pinion yoke off and replace the leaking seal as well.  Hate having to replace those things.  Luckily, I don't have any crush sleeves to worry about so it's cut and dry.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on January 07, 2012, 05:14:43 PM
Drove the Jeep around without the driveshaft.  I have to say it's actually eerily quiet.  No ball bearings in a coffee can when I let off at 65-70MPH.  Luckily I bought 4 Spicer U-Joints when I did.  I think I paid $8 each, too!  Gonna take the pinion yoke off and replace the leaking seal as well.  Hate having to replace those things.  Luckily, I don't have any crush sleeves to worry about so it's cut and dry.

It's nice to know what the problems is so it can be fixed. Trouble shooting can be such a pain sometimes!



Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 09, 2012, 06:12:26 PM
Worked on some little things while it's still warm.  You can see the mess the front pinion seal is making...

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q-onZvgI-Iw/TwuOZquQhPI/AAAAAAAAeJY/UDVJyjMswIs/s800/DSC_0771.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ayy0BfBaKus/TwuObW8T_7I/AAAAAAAAeJY/-ZhMHsl9Yfw/s800/DSC_0774.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uR7GflpUh8Q/TwuOcDC_DCI/AAAAAAAAeJY/KdqqP38tQSg/s800/DSC_0776.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DDO9yu8cyvo/TwuOdXBK4SI/AAAAAAAAeJY/VddW7Zxamqw/s800/DSC_0778.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zykivN5jWMs/TwuOdTx7wKI/AAAAAAAAeJY/dFX-FaynwOU/s800/DSC_0779.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7B6zBlVF6S8/TwuOgHPHROI/AAAAAAAAeJY/gT4bAFAUv2A/s800/DSC_0785.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xDgDbHJbJYY/TwuOgptpUnI/AAAAAAAAeJY/5XKJHOydMuU/s512/DSC_0786.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aka-justin on January 10, 2012, 12:06:27 AM
Like the pics. They all have a cool focus effect.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DDO9yu8cyvo/TwuOdXBK4SI/AAAAAAAAeJY/VddW7Zxamqw/s800/DSC_0778.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 10, 2012, 02:38:41 PM
It's a technique called bokeh and can be used to make the viewer focus on the important bit.

I noticed I reversed the U-joints so the zerk is pointed at the fixed end.  I switched one but it was a PITA.  These joints are beefier then the OEM's so you the caps don't just pop out and you need to get at least one cap out all the way to get the joint out.  Took me an hour just looking at it.  Luckily these are new joints so there isn't much resistance holding them in.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 10, 2012, 04:54:21 PM
Gonna wait on the pinion seal.  It's an OLD seal.  NOS I guess you could say.  Is the sealant on the seal supposed to be sticky?  I might have to get some RTV to apply a skin around the seal so it won't leak.

So, I've read, 160-200ft-lbs for the nut.  Should be simple as long as I can get the old seal out quickly.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on January 10, 2012, 09:56:58 PM
Is the sealant on the seal supposed to be sticky? 

nope
i run just a tiny bit of rtv on the inside rather than on the seal as most if not all of it will get scraped out anyway, you can do both though but you don't need much. let it set before running it so the inside bead won't be washed off.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 10, 2012, 10:00:40 PM
nope
i run just a tiny bit of rtv on the inside rather than on the seal as most if not all of it will get scraped out anyway, you can do both though but you don't need much. let it set before running it so the inside bead won't be washed off.
Ok, that's what I was going to do.  Need to get some RTV though.  I'm always out when I need the stuff. 


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on January 11, 2012, 07:59:45 AM
Are you putting in a new crush sleeve?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 11, 2012, 08:59:16 AM
Are you putting in a new crush sleeve?
There are no crush sleeves in the YJ D30.  Shims set the preload.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on January 11, 2012, 09:13:32 AM
Good to know.  I'm looking into installing a u-bolt style yoke to replace the strap style.  Thanks


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on January 11, 2012, 09:18:03 AM
Good to know.  I'm looking into installing a u-bolt style yoke to replace the strap style.  Thanks

i've seen it done in the rear where you drill thru the yoke and install u-bolts, not sure if it can be done on the front yoke but it could save you some money (you'd probably want to get u-bolt style yoke at the t-case output as well).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on January 11, 2012, 09:57:33 AM
Pretty sure it won't work on the front axle yoke.  One of my bolt holes was stripped due to the previous owner so I drilled it out and installed a grade 8 round head allen bolt so that it could turn on the yoke side.  I put a nut on the strap side but it can't turn.  It has held up great for the last 5 years or so with some occasional hard wheeling thrown in.  I've already got the rear converted as well as the TC outputs.  Thanks


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 11, 2012, 05:35:40 PM
Pretty sure it won't work on the front axle yoke.  One of my bolt holes was stripped due to the previous owner so I drilled it out and installed a grade 8 round head allen bolt so that it could turn on the yoke side.  I put a nut on the strap side but it can't turn.  It has held up great for the last 5 years or so with some occasional hard wheeling thrown in.  I've already got the rear converted as well as the TC outputs.  Thanks
You know I've never had problems with the straps.  As long as you don't over-torque the bolts you should be OK.  You don't want them getting lose either.  Still, I'd rather have to replace a strap then have a broken axle or worse.

In other news, I sold my CJ hood and grill.  I decided to stick with the squares.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on January 11, 2012, 05:37:38 PM
In other news, I sold my CJ hood and grill.  I decided to stick with the squares.

good choice


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on January 12, 2012, 07:46:38 AM
I agree, Jeeps are about function.  Cosmetic changes are a waste of time and money!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 12, 2012, 06:03:50 PM
Well, I replaced the pinion seal that's been leaking for something like 8 years.  So hopefully, I'll get several years out of this new seal.  I didn't add RTV last time so that's probably why it leaked after a while.  The only problem I had was torquing the nut.  I just hit it with the impact and I'm sure it's in the neighborhood of 160-200ft-lbs like it's supposed to be.  I didn't have any way to hold the yoke and since the Jeep was on the ground, didn't have much space under there.  It's good enough I think.

On that note, I think my Jeep is actually in good shape.  The noise I keep hearing occasionally is still there.  It has to warm up and then it only seems to happen when I lug the engine a little or coast it in gear with backpressure.  Coast in neutral and it may or may not happen.  Out of all of the bearing in the rear end, the passenger axle bearing is original.  That's the general area where the noise is coming from.  I turned the wheel and it felt OK.  Although that little movement could be what's making noise.  I didn't feel any rough spots.  I think I'll be replacing that axle shaft or BOTH in the coming year.  The driver is a Superior already but I want them drilled for 5 on 5.5" as well as 4.5".

Other then that, I think the Jeep is running well.  Just turned over 78K as well.  It's nice to finally get those little things fixed.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 23, 2012, 01:08:41 PM
On another front, the Jeep still leaks!  I think I've figured it out this time though.  I think it's the door seal.  Always sucks to open teh door and have a puddle in the foot well.  Then have all the gauges fog up and a few days later the smell of mold.  New door seals are $24-39 each though.  I might try to add some stick on weather stripping to the windshield frame where it meets the door.

New ducting from JeepAir should come in a week.  They sent out a new one today.

Also, I'm 99.999% sure I'll be doing an Atlas 4.0 this year.  I've already sold some stuff and collecting funds for it.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on January 23, 2012, 04:28:34 PM
I might try to add some stick on weather stripping to the windshield frame where it meets the door.

I tried this with mix success; while driving, and on regular days, it works.  But if the jeep is leaning to one side, I get a puddle.  Still have not been able to figure out exactly WHERE it is leaking, though...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 23, 2012, 04:33:16 PM
Took some pics of the pinion seal that I fixed last week.  No leaks!  The oil on my leaf is from the pinion.  It's made a big mess under there since it's been leaking for years.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iWuYsTwQ4rk/Tx3gtEOuuFI/AAAAAAAAeZA/E1BRl5QQ59Q/s800/IMG_0426.JPG)

The street in front of my house has a bunch of oil patches from my Jeep.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mRJhGTzZsJc/Tx3gsnYboMI/AAAAAAAAeVY/mnk8XHFI92I/s800/IMG_0428.JPG)

Also bought one of these for my iPhone which my Alpine controls for music.  I can also use the TomTom App for navigation.  This thing is really sturdy.  I might do a quick review if there is interest in it.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hGIXraEFc28/Tx3ghJkJwMI/AAAAAAAAeU0/hw5GftEppXM/s720/IMG_0424.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 23, 2012, 04:35:57 PM
I tried this with mix success; while driving, and on regular days, it works.  But if the jeep is leaning to one side, I get a puddle.  Still have not been able to figure out exactly WHERE it is leaking, though...
I felt around and can tell it's not leaking from under the dash.  It's definitely leaking from the area where the windshield frame, dash and door meet.  I put a larger foam seal in there just to see if it leaks anymore.  if not then I'll move up to a 1/2" seal instead of the 1/4" I had there before the additional foam seal.  I can't see spending $40 on a door seal if I can fix it with $1-2.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on January 23, 2012, 05:27:18 PM
I felt around and can tell it's not leaking from under the dash.  It's definitely leaking from the area where the windshield frame, dash and door meet.  I put a larger foam seal in there just to see if it leaks anymore.  if not then I'll move up to a 1/2" seal instead of the 1/4" I had there before the additional foam seal.  I can't see spending $40 on a door seal if I can fix it with $1-2.

mine feels like is leaking (just by sticking my fingers there) somewhere on the tub rear of the fender, where it is actually coming from i have no idea. it's not the cowl since that was sealed a while ago with urethane and it reduced the leak by a lot but it still puddles in my catch-all on the driver's side. This year i noticed that i have a few drops on the passenger side as well if it rains over night, very little but that is new so i don't know what the heck - maybe that is the windshield gasket which i didn't get to replace yet, driver's side does not seem that is from there but you never know. I will do the w/s gasket first sunny day on the coming weekends, hopefully will fix my problem (i doubt it will entirely though) - still thinking if i should add any rtv between the gasket and the w/s frame (not the tub) - did you end up using any there or not?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 23, 2012, 05:43:26 PM
mine feels like is leaking (just by sticking my fingers there) somewhere on the tub rear of the fender, where it is actually coming from i have no idea. it's not the cowl since that was sealed a while ago with urethane and it reduced the leak by a lot but it still puddles in my catch-all on the driver's side. This year i noticed that i have a few drops on the passenger side as well if it rains over night, very little but that is new so i don't know what the heck - maybe that is the windshield gasket which i didn't get to replace yet, driver's side does not seem that is from there but you never know. I will do the w/s gasket first sunny day on the coming weekends, hopefully will fix my problem (i doubt it will entirely though) - still thinking if i should add any rtv between the gasket and the w/s frame (not the tub) - did you end up using any there or not?
I still have a strip of electrical tape across my cowl.  It held fine and I didn't feel like messing with it this summer.  Actually I forgot.  It's not leaking so I'm not going to deal with it until later.  I need to clean teh RTV out of the crack and reseal it then paint it.

When I replaced the cowl seal, I added RTV in the gap where it grabs into the lip of the windshield frame.  This should keep any water from getting inside from the top of the seal.  I forgot what else I did.  I think I used some Vaseline to the bottom.  The seal doesn't sit flush like the original which kinda sucks.  At least it's tight across the top though.  There's no way to realign it either as the screw holes are pre-drilled and you'll risk tearing the seal.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 24, 2012, 05:40:16 PM
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x0innyTYxR4/Tx4iCRtPOhI/AAAAAAAAeZs/UVQVrMikQeY/s800/12%252520-%2525201.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 29, 2012, 01:43:13 PM
Well, after doing some thinking, I think I fogured out why my AC duct wasn't going on correctly.  The problem is the bracket on the duct itself is an L bracket that grabs onto the bottom of the instrument panel.  Well, that's not the problem but the stereo is.  The stereo is after market and sits on the ledge of the instrument panel.  So when you try to bolt up the duct the bracket presses against the stereo and then flexes enough to push the duct towards the firewall.

Can some of you check check your YJ's and feel where the stereo is in relation to the instrument panel.  Mine's aftermarket but that's how it aligns with the mounting bracket.  There is no room to bring it up.  I'm wondering if the stock stereo is a lot narrower.

If I have to I'll trim the L bracket some but I want to see if this is normal for YJ's and if it is, I'll relay my findings back to Jeepair.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on January 30, 2012, 02:17:03 PM
Got the new duct in from Jeep Air.  They moved the bracket inward about 1/4"-1/2" which should not clear the expansion valve.  Like I mentioned before. I think the L bracket is a bit too large and is hitting the HV Controls and the stereo.  I'll have a better idea of what's happening once I can line up the unit.  I'm 90% sure that's what's happening as well as the vent being pushed further under the dash.  I don't see any reason to have the vent pushed that far back in anyway.

If you look at the front of the vent in relationship to the bracket you can see how it's off.  Yes, that little change makes a bit difference in the back.  There just isn't a lot of room back there.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QJ84sYuhm9s/UFJ0NjcYHhI/AAAAAAAAlEA/1t-nUOHUEM0/s800/IMG_0553.JPG)

vs

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QJ84sYuhm9s/UFJ0NjcYHhI/AAAAAAAAlEA/1t-nUOHUEM0/s800/IMG_0553.JPG)

and

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qV-tvTDK90E/UFJz4c9z9vI/AAAAAAAAk-c/xP5hVBLZqbs/s800/IMG_0557.JPG)

vs

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-M0CUuCCSbDE/UFJ0NtiIOSI/AAAAAAAAlEA/qonMYpCKO9Y/s800/IMG_0559.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on February 01, 2012, 09:31:54 PM
Still had some problems with the new AV unit.  I think I got them squared away though.  Trimmed the L bracket since it was 1/2" tall.  Turns out the HV Controls, vacuum switch as well as the stereo were less then 1/2".  So out came the dremel.  What a PITA it is to cut a steel bracket.  Also has to bend the expansion valve in a little.  I highly recommend taking the blower motor off when fitting it.  Makes a huge difference.  I noticed a crack in the housing where the blower attaches.  Not sure if it was me or them but I'll fix it with some JB Weld.

You can however just bolt the duct to the underside without trimming the bracket which I guess everyone else does but that puts a lot of pressure on stuff that doesn't really need any.  Although, you don't see it, I think it's a bit halfassed to leave it.

Also, I cleaned up under the dash and removed an extra harness I had.  Once the duct goes up, you cannot get to any of the wiring very easily so it's best to do it now rather then later.  I also cut and soldered longer wire so I can use the cigarette lighter once everything is in place.

Since my seats don't have slider, I ended up removing the driver seat to make life easier on myself.  You can see the extra holes to move the seal outboard.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m63_2MqZq-A/TynoSi8A3sI/AAAAAAAAeiQ/fVqWVBJh43k/s800/12%2520-%25201.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on February 02, 2012, 09:19:29 PM
Wow, what a PITA.  What ended up being an AC install turned into an epic, fix everything else on my to-do list it seems.  I ended up rewiring and rerouting a bunch of wiring.  Added leads to the switch panel which how have blade plugs.  Because the switches are so close together it's hard to use blades to the terminals.  Actually the terminals are designed for wires to be attached as they are too small to use a blade plug.  I did it anyway and sometimes they would come off.  So I fixed all of that.

Painted the AC Eveporator unit's mounting bracket since I cut a large section out.  The Jeepair said they never had any issues and that's how Jeep used to do it but I can see where the paint is scraped off and a line in where the edge is pressing up against some stuff.  Mainly the vacuum bracket for the Heater Vent control.  It's depth was maybe 1/4".  The old ashtray bracket was just shy of 1/2" and the stereo was about 1/4 to shy of 1/2" if I pushed it up.  So I cut the lip down to 1/8" or so to clear everything without pressing on stuff that doesn't seen stuff pressing on it.

I also noticed a crack in the duct where the blower motor attaches.  Not sure if it was there before.  Add some JB weld and it's fixed.  So I got the evaporator installed.  It's nice and solid and isn't going to be moving.  Everything seems to be clearing this time.  It still was a PITA to get the blower under the dash without a second set of hands.

I also managed to melt a slit into my shifter boot with my work light.  It's the old type with the cage and light bulb.  Well it's a better heater then anything else.  I also melted a circle in my floor mat with the same lamp.  I seem to replace this POS.  Oh yeah, I also melted a spot in my carpet with a blob of solder.

Been thinking about making another switch panel and bolting it to the underside of the dash under the headlights.  It would be nice to have a rear defroster and wiper sometimes.  The defroster would really be nice for these cold days when it's either iced over or fogged up.  I was afraid that I'd need a timer circuit but the setup in the Blazer I borrow has no timer.  It just has a dummy light.  So I figure I could do it like that.  I'll have to see if the defroster gets a full 12v or not though.  Wiper motor works as I've jumped it a few times.  IIRC, it needs to be wired so it parks the wiper arm and not just cuts out.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vJO96QpNE_0/UFJz4ewIuzI/AAAAAAAAk-c/Re8QWOfppt4/s800/DSC_0794.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oebVd41qy8A/UFJz4a6P9FI/AAAAAAAAk-c/PrIAui1nI6k/s800/DSC_0795.jpg)

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KDimAoPpqwA/UFJ0NkxLhkI/AAAAAAAAlEA/U2oX30k7ZOo/s800/DSC_0796.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on February 02, 2012, 09:43:11 PM
At least you wont be sweaty this summer.  :wall:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on February 02, 2012, 09:44:44 PM
At least you wont be sweaty this summer.  :wall:
I'll probably drive around all year with the AC on to make up for the times I didn't have it.  I've got 20 years to make up for.   :lol:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on February 03, 2012, 08:14:10 AM
It looks good and will be great to have in the Summer.  But now you have even less space under the dash for the Atlas planetary shifter.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on February 03, 2012, 09:05:33 AM
It looks good and will be great to have in the Summer.  But now you have even less space under the dash for the Atlas planetary shifter.
I don't honk it will be a problem.  The evaporator takes up a lot of room but it's all hanging up high at the front.  If I had clearance issues with the shifter mounted under it I could  it the shifter shorter or put a bend in it.  I might also be able to mount it on the pass side of the shifter if I make a platform for it.  Well see.  Most of the lost room is right above my shin.  If I lift my foot too high I'll hit the back of the ash tray with the tip of my shoe


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Mozman68 on February 04, 2012, 05:46:03 AM
Even if I've only used it 5 times since I've had my Jeep, I'm really appreciating my factory installed AC right now.  Nice looking unit.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on February 04, 2012, 11:58:24 AM
Even if I've only used it 5 times since I've had my Jeep, I'm really appreciating my factory installed AC right now.  Nice looking unit.
Yeah, the only problem with CJ's and YJ's is that the unit is a complete self contained system.  So you have two blower motors.  You can have AC and the Heater/Vent on at the same time.  Would be nice to have it all intigrated into one unit but that's not possible unless you redo the whole HVAC system and build your own.

Summers here are usually around 100 which is somewhat bearable.  Then we get a week where it might be around 110-120.  It can really suck when you need to go someplace.  Long road trip with +100* temps and you're driving for 5-7hrs suck.  This should make it a lot more bearable and probably downright pleasant once I add some heat shielding and insulation to the floor.  I'm still undecided on what to do in the back.  I'm thinking a drawer box that can be slid out if I need to have rear passengers.  Might intagrate a 10" subwoofer into the back so I can retain some base.  I also want to add a fridge/freezer back there as well.  At least that's the plan.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on February 29, 2012, 01:10:19 PM
Well, it's raining again and it looks like my Jeep STILL leaks!  At least it's not as bad as before.  it's coming from the cowl seal that's right behind the windshield hinge.  Not sure if pulling the windshield back will work or not.  Otherwise, I'll have to leave it and wait till I can drop the windshield again.  It's not a low of water though.  it rained all night but there seems to be maybe a few oz's of water.  Just enough to be more then damp but not enough to really pool.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on February 29, 2012, 03:01:33 PM
Well, it's raining again and it looks like my Jeep STILL leaks!  At least it's not as bad as before.  it's coming from the cowl seal that's right behind the windshield hinge.  Not sure if pulling the windshield back will work or not.  Otherwise, I'll have to leave it and wait till I can drop the windshield again.  It's not a low of water though.  it rained all night but there seems to be maybe a few oz's of water.  Just enough to be more then damp but not enough to really pool.

I feel you...  Mine is leaking as well, but not every time it rains, and I know how it feels to get into a rig that smells like rotten eggs the next day.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on February 29, 2012, 05:22:07 PM
I feel you...  Mine is leaking as well, but not every time it rains, and I know how it feels to get into a rig that smells like rotten eggs the next day.
It's like being in a swamp actually.  Very humid and damp.  Then a few days later it starts smelling moldy as the mold starts to grow on the carpet/mats.  I'm not sure if mine is all the time or not.  It didn't puddle the last time it rained.  Either it wasn't raining enough or there was less wind.  This last time there was more wind but it didn't rain as much.  My Jeep sits outside 24/7 and is driven daily so getting it sealed up is fairly high on my list.

I also, still need to get bolts for my AC Compressor, new belt and see if I can retain my OBA.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on February 29, 2012, 08:01:18 PM
It's like being in a swamp actually.  Very humid and damp.  Then a few days later it starts smelling moldy as the mold starts to grow on the carpet/mats.  I'm not sure if mine is all the time or not.  It didn't puddle the last time it rained.  Either it wasn't raining enough or there was less wind.  This last time there was more wind but it didn't rain as much.  My Jeep sits outside 24/7 and is driven daily so getting it sealed up is fairly high on my list.

I also, still need to get bolts for my AC Compressor, new belt and see if I can retain my OBA.

i bought a set of catch-all rubber thingy set from quadratec, it puddles in there and not under to soak the carpet, i need to get whatever it's in there out every couple of days or will go over the lip and make it under - hopefully i'll have some time to replace that seal once the weather permits, but sounds like is not a done deal since you did it already and still have this issue, hoping to minimize the leak though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on February 29, 2012, 10:37:25 PM
i bought a set of catch-all rubber thingy set from quadratec, it puddles in there and not under to soak the carpet, i need to get whatever it's in there out every couple of days or will go over the lip and make it under - hopefully i'll have some time to replace that seal once the weather permits, but sounds like is not a done deal since you did it already and still have this issue, hoping to minimize the leak though.
I've got a 6pt cage so those rubber floor mats don't work too well.  I'd have to use rear floor mats for teh front because of the smaller space.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on February 29, 2012, 11:03:19 PM
I've got a 6pt cage so those rubber floor mats don't work too well.  I'd have to use rear floor mats for teh front because of the smaller space.

mine is dripping right under the underdash light so probably about where the foot of your tube goes on the floor - i was thinking you can cut around that but would probably find it's way under the mat. I feel like welding the w/s frame to fix the leak(s) :lol: (it drips a little on the pass side too but nothing like the drivers side).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: jfrabat on March 01, 2012, 10:04:50 AM
Mine drips from the passanger side, around the door area.  But only when the parking is tilted a certain way or the wind catches the Jeep in a certain angle.  When driving, there is no drip.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 01, 2012, 02:04:03 PM
Well, I found that if I don't park with the pass. tires on a curb, it doesn't seem to leak.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: neale_rs on March 01, 2012, 03:49:21 PM
Well, I found that if I don't park with the pass. tires on a curb, it doesn't seem to leak.

Seems like you just found the easy and cheap solution.  lol


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 05, 2012, 06:49:33 PM
Two steps forward, one step back.

I'm running into fit issues with the AC again.  You'd think that it would be a slam dunk since the OEM AC has been out for decades but you'd be wrong.  Very wrong.  I installed the condensor or tried to.  It's in BUT there is no way I can hook up the hoses to the fittings.  The way it sits now, the fitting is pressed against the radiator.  Problem is the radiator isn't vertical.  It's actually set at an angle.  The condensor is set up to mount vertically.  So at the bottom, they come into close contact with each other at the fitting side.

I think installer's just say f*ck it and mount the hoses and bolt it all together with everything pressed up against each other.  No one would be the wiser until someone had the replace something.  Then they would find they would need to remove the radiator to get the line off and inspect for any other damage.  At minimum, some things would self clearance to some extent since it's all aluminum.

I also don't see why the condensor needs to be so far back anyway.  If the brackets were flush with the condensor the condensor would sit in the grill where there is more room.

So I'm going to have to take it all apart again and see if I can bend the brackets so the condensor sits a bit more forward.  Then I'll be able to get to the fittings from underneath.  At least I was able to make room for the condensor without having to remove the whole radiator.  So it stayed filled, saving a lot of time.

Once this is done, I'll move onto the compressor which I hole will be a simple install.  Knowing how everything else has gone, I'm sure it won't be smooth as I've got to mount my York as well.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 05, 2012, 08:42:42 PM
I'm wondering if I have the condenser mounted upside down.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rwpRypNQedg/UFJz4WqztiI/AAAAAAAAk-c/e0aw09QKSxs/s800/IMG_0811.JPG)(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FcVd-TNQ5SE/UFJ0NkYhQ3I/AAAAAAAAlEA/16j9u7OUjgw/s800/IMG_0821.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PeEpvVotLH0/UFJ0NtBWfdI/AAAAAAAAlEA/9Cou-7nMwKQ/s800/IMG_0812.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: aw12345 on March 06, 2012, 06:12:56 PM
Aftermarket stuff hardly ever fits perfect. You probably have to holesaw some holes to get the hoses to hook to the condensor


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: sharpxmen on March 06, 2012, 07:05:37 PM
don't you have to get the fittings hooked up before you install the radiator?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 06, 2012, 10:38:18 PM
Aftermarket stuff hardly ever fits perfect. You probably have to holesaw some holes to get the hoses to hook to the condensor
Yeah, it's looking like I'll have to 'fix' just about everything to get it to fit right.  Luckily, I think this is the only other piece that will need some coaxing.  I had to drill out some of the holes for the mount as the supplied bolts were too big for one side.  They also required you to trim from metal off the back side of the grill to get the threaded clips on.  I was thinking about maybe flattening out the brackets and rebending them but that's a PITA.  I need to move the whole thing about 1/2".  I'm questioning the whole OEM condensor.  If they're all like this, and I'm sure they are, then they aren't gonna fit without some help.

don't you have to get the fittings hooked up before you install the radiator?
You should be able to bolt everything up then install the hoses since they are supposed to be somewhat easily accessible.  Now if I install the hoses it would probably push the condenser out of the way enough to force the hose in place but there would be pressure on the fitting and preloading it with vibrations is just asking for something to crack.

Oh and I do have the condenser mounted correctly.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 13, 2012, 06:05:53 PM
Ok, it's been pouring all day and well I found some water in the Jeep...  again.  I don't know where it's from though.  No drip lines and nothing feels wet under the dash.  I've resorted to putting a rolled up SHAM-WOW by the floor.  I had probably a 1/2 cup of water worth.  I'm thinking it's the door seal.  No way to really check though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on March 17, 2012, 04:35:24 PM
Threw talc all over and checked it this morning.

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xbEn1NHdrn0/UFKZBbguYQI/AAAAAAAAlj0/zOaw2rLVJOc/s800/IMG_0847.jpg)

Looks like it's definitely leaking from the door seal someplace.  I'm not sure what teh damp spot under the ebrake is from though.  It's very light so I'm not too worried about it.

I'm still wondering where this all came from though.  It was from a previous day.  Not sure if it's coming from the cowl seal or the windshield frame.  From the looks of it, it's running down the back side of the dash and onto the speaker grill.  Might be leaking from where the wiper motor is.  Can't be leaking form further down as I saw nothing with a flash light.  If it's leaking in the wiper motor area it's either the seal below it where the wire passed into the body or maybe the windshield frame has a leak someplace.  Wiper arms, or windshield seal.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3WYJ0M7qd9U/UFKZNea_rwI/AAAAAAAAljo/DQ5JaH8s26A/s800/IMG_0965.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 13, 2012, 12:56:43 PM
Had a huge storm come through last night and look what I found in the morning.  Popped the top and dropped the windshield to take a closer look.  Still not definitive though.  It looks like it's leaking from inside the windshield frame.  You can see where it's draining out at the wiper motor.

And after getting all that out, I found no holes in the windshield frame!  :brick:  At least it's cleaned out so it can be painted.  So either I'm missing where it's leaking from or it's coming from the wiper arm.  It was kinda hard to tell it if was coming from there or the water just traveled there.  Although, now that I think about it, it's probably a good place to check as t's exposed and water would collect there as it runs down the windshield.  I could feel it damp from the wiper arm area down to the end.  Actually I couldn't feel it but I could see it.

Oh and yes, it's also still leaking from the door seal which has been getting sopped up with a sham WOW placed on the floor.  After this rain though, it was probably holding a cup or two of water and there was still water all over the floor.  At least I confirmed the cowl seal is holding fine.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GZAX8YIS1Aw/T4hAB4vRuCI/AAAAAAAAiHs/nLScUpsCXQE/s512/12%2520-%25201.jpg)(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jsYPKBJP8T8/T4hABzKpZ7I/AAAAAAAAiHs/VGuB87QhLWA/s512/12%2520-%25202.jpg)(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t51zEHuD4AQ/T4hAB5fRPbI/AAAAAAAAiHs/K3dHUb8Xyyg/s512/12%2520-%25203.jpg)(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-L5W5oDnhKLY/T4hAB6MuObI/AAAAAAAAiHs/eLaSReanAjc/s512/12%2520-%25204.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-F1cc_SiH_E0/T4hRELTzRKI/AAAAAAAAiIU/TvncE9eH9kk/s512/12%2520-%25201.jpg)(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VOT6LgyD4l4/T4hREEU8-rI/AAAAAAAAiIU/F--oxx2ac8c/s512/12%2520-%25202.jpg)(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Qr9MJMa3gJs/T4hREORlbKI/AAAAAAAAiIU/Aa7p5z5TW84/s512/12%2520-%25203.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-o3c51GqgIp8/T4h8FHCVUGI/AAAAAAAAiI0/armHLBP1BdM/s640/12%2520-%25205.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tVEFQYSoig0/T4h8FCdOCxI/AAAAAAAAiI0/8emSBWr_a3g/s640/12%2520-%25204.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qugq96UVRWI/T4h8FB5_6tI/AAAAAAAAiI0/bNgGdoN3q5k/s640/12%2520-%25203.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_3Psn5jvvbg/T4h8FP2na9I/AAAAAAAAiI0/8vqOhcL86PQ/s640/12%2520-%25202.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wSnB27JhZ2U/T4h8FJOKJuI/AAAAAAAAiI0/1ykkSk9NzJo/s640/12%2520-%25201.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: grumpygy on April 13, 2012, 01:15:29 PM
Wish You had not started posting about this.  I have a lake on my drivers side now.  Lucky I have not installed the carpet.  Do have the drains open.  But I still have way to much water on the floor.  This heavy leak is something new.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 13, 2012, 01:30:36 PM
Wish You had not started posting about this.  I have a lake on my drivers side now.  Lucky I have not installed the carpet.  Do have the drains open.  But I still have way to much water on the floor.  This heavy leak is something new.
Well, removing the floor plugs get rid of the water but it's still running down the backside of the dash and into the gauges.  Not to mention, if you've never taken the instrument panel out, it's probably rusted on the backside.  Jeep never painted them on the back so they rust.  The "carpet" is more like a large mat.  It's the carpet that Jeeps got when they didn't have a rear seat.  It only covers the footwell.

I've cleaned out the area between the glass once before but that was more then 10 years ago.  I then just used RTV to fill the gap.  What a mess it's making now.  I've got to scrape out all that crap out now.  The weather isn't helping any either.  It's sunny for maybe 30 minutes then it's a downpour for 1hr.  Then sunny again.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: grumpygy on April 13, 2012, 06:09:05 PM
Do know if I park up by my Garage(seep incline to get to it) and put the front down hill the water is not there.  But if I face up hill is fills with water.    Its facing down now.



  No real rust behind the dash Have had it out several times.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 14, 2012, 09:01:55 PM
Got everything cleaned up, primed and painted.  Went with Krylon's Flat OD since it blends in well with the oxidized paint.  I really like this paint since it sticks to everything and dries really fast.  Not to mention looks cool.  I sprayed primer then did the Krylon.  I feathered the edges with the Krylon so it blends in instead of having a harsh line.  Once the OD ages a little it will be hard to tell the difference at 5ft.

Here's what I think is happening.  All the RTV and rust is trapping water instead of letting it flow out of the seam.  I think it's backing up and leaking into the inner seam of the windshield frame.  IIRC there is a gasket that fits over the seam and the windshield is attached to that.  From the underside it seems like water is following that seam.  You can see it in the pic with the wiper control arms.  Getting all of the RTV and cleaning up the rust was a real PITA.  There is very little room to work with and you have to be careful with the glass right there.  You can pry on the glass side.  I thought maybe water is leaking through the shaft of the wiper but I'm not so certain anymore.  In any case I added a thin coating of RTV to the big nut.  There's no leaking on the passenger side though.  I also, didn't find any rust holes when cleaning out the channel.  At least now I have a better idea of where it's leaking from.  Oh and yes, that's electrical tape that I applied last year to the cowl seam.  It's held up great.   :lol:

You can see in the earlier pic with the wiper control arms, there is rust at the bottom.

My door seal still leaks as well but I haven't had time to mess with it.  It's either leaking where the windshield, body and door meet or it's leaking further down.  I can't tell if it's leaking down from above and just filling up the space between the seal and the body then dripping in or if it's running on the outside and then leaking in at the bottom.  In comparison though, it leaks a lot less then the windshield frame.  Although only when it's really windy and pouring.  Otherwise it doesn't seem to leak.  The door on the other hand leaks even when it's light rain for a long period of time.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jQa1QKJiFeY/UFKZdebcVaI/AAAAAAAAljo/W7cXR8NcDVo/s800/IMG_0982.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RIZah-lAHfw/UFKZdjBRseI/AAAAAAAAljo/fYamyLc_dPw/s800/IMG_0983.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4NCdncoBpF0/UFKZhVpsu3I/AAAAAAAAljo/gQzI8C5znYg/s800/IMG_0986.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UChsWEhfBxU/UFKZpFjawCI/AAAAAAAAljo/eN30LhVKq3I/s800/IMG_0994.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jhfsTwZe3qg/UFKZq4_w2EI/AAAAAAAAljo/dnrSMW5OOfs/s800/IMG_0995.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tccL3ffJvkI/UFKZ0Y9QfMI/AAAAAAAAljo/Eew_AJYsKcg/s800/IMG_1005.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 15, 2012, 08:27:47 AM
I hope that is it. That leak has been  :deadhorse: for a long time!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 15, 2012, 12:44:12 PM
I hope that is it. That leak has been  :deadhorse: for a long time!
There's been several leaks though!   :lol:  If it can leak, I've probably had it.  :uhoh:  I have noticed the dampness in the windshield frame since maybe last year but I never dropped the windshield.  I thought maybe it was getting in there from the cowl seal.  When I dropped the windshield the area under the seal was dry.  I had "fixed" the windshield once before.  I think that was maybe back in 1997.  I'm still debating on if I should lean out the passenger side as well.  The driver side took a few hours and if there is no problem with the passenger side then I might as well leave it.

The other problem is, it's stopped raining.  I'm not sure when it will rain again.  I'll have to either wait or consider washing the Jeep, which I haven't done in several years.   :lol:  I might just wait for it to rain again.  :truck:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: Jeffy on April 19, 2012, 04:49:04 PM
So here's the after pic when I got done with it.  Not bad for being different colors.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--8caXlWy-A4/T4884FiADUI/AAAAAAAAigY/g2U2QG552lg/s856/B4489517-E7F2-4089-939E-0986BBC3FE69.JPG)

Also, did this today as well.  :thumbsup:

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Zft4r8sVOB4/T5CgRH6S0vI/AAAAAAAAihY/NwZyh6OKyco/s800/12+-+1)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: aka-justin on April 24, 2012, 11:36:41 PM
The windshield seal repair and paint looks like it came out great! May the bastard water find someone else to torment. It was a never ending anxiety with my old mobile home and RV.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 25, 2012, 07:14:24 AM
I like the title change of your thread.  :thumb:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on April 25, 2012, 07:12:10 PM
I like the title change of your thread.  :thumb:
Yup, it's a bit more fitting.  It started raining again today.  So we'll see...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: stan98tj on April 26, 2012, 07:09:57 PM
Yup, it's a bit more fitting.  It started raining again today.  So we'll see...
Just move to southern Cali or Death Valley. Problem solved.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on April 26, 2012, 07:13:08 PM
Just move to southern Cali or Death Valley. Problem solved.
Yeah, but that would involve living in Socal.  Can't do that.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: FourbangerYJ on April 26, 2012, 11:11:56 PM
Yeah, but that would involve living in Socal.  Can't do that.

It's not that bad... :lol:  ;)
We had a bit of rain today.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on April 27, 2012, 10:44:57 AM
Well I did find some moisture under the carpet again.  I'm not sure if it leaked from the windshield frame or the door seal though.  It looks like there won't be any more rain for a while so I'll have time to check it at my leisure now.  Maybe it will force me to wash the Jeep.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Joop
Post by: stan98tj on April 28, 2012, 12:06:03 AM
It's like being in a swamp actually.  Very humid and damp.  Then a few days later it starts smelling moldy as the mold starts to grow on the carpet/mats. 
Why are you still running carpet after all these years you've owned it? Line the floor with herculiner or get it sprayed with Line-X or Rhino and then throw in some heavy duty rubber mats. Makes clean up a whole lot easier AND does away with that moldy smell. As for your leak, i've heard that once you take down your windshield, it wont seal back up esp if you take it down late into the jeep's life when the seal is old and dry. You posted a pic of it coming out of your speaker, that would worry me a bit if it's leaking on electrical parts. I had some leaks when I first got the jeep, i think it was due to a drain by my wiper motor being backed up. The motor actually failed and when i went to replace it, i noticed a ton of debris and moisture around it. Also get some water from around my door seal (upper part) but i have half doors, so it may be less of an issue for you. It was hard to track that last leak down cause it pools in the floor pan and by the time i get to see it the next morn, the door is dry and the pool in the floor pan is all that is left. Sitting out inside the jeep in the rain one day allowed me to notice it coming from the top of the door.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on April 28, 2012, 10:17:03 AM
Why are you still running carpet after all these years you've owned it? Line the floor with herculiner or get it sprayed with Line-X or Rhino and then throw in some heavy duty rubber mats. Makes clean up a whole lot easier AND does away with that moldy smell. As for your leak, i've heard that once you take down your windshield, it wont seal back up esp if you take it down late into the jeep's life when the seal is old and dry. You posted a pic of it coming out of your speaker, that would worry me a bit if it's leaking on electrical parts. I had some leaks when I first got the jeep, i think it was due to a drain by my wiper motor being backed up. The motor actually failed and when i went to replace it, i noticed a ton of debris and moisture around it. Also get some water from around my door seal (upper part) but i have half doors, so it may be less of an issue for you. It was hard to track that last leak down cause it pools in the floor pan and by the time i get to see it the next morn, the door is dry and the pool in the floor pan is all that is left. Sitting out inside the jeep in the rain one day allowed me to notice it coming from the top of the door.
The carpet isn't what you think.  The S model basic carpet just just a strip of carpet for the front.  There is no other carpet under the seats or in the back.  The front carpet pulls out easily and can be dried quickly.  Not to mention it was free and fits the Jeep as it came from the factory that way.  If I get the water out and lift the carpet a bit it dries quickly.

The windshield seal isn't a problem.  What you've heard is only an issue if you've never dropped it and don't know what to expect.  The first time I had my windshield down was in 1992.  It's been up and down a few times since then.  I've had to replace the instrument panal and the cowl seal over time as well.

There are no drains like that on the YJ. The wiper motor on a YJ, like a CJ is inside the passenger compartment, not outside.  You can't just pop the cowl cover off as there is none on the older Jeeps.  Under that sheet metal is the back of the dash.  The water isn't coming out of the speaker.  It's coming out of the windshield frame, running along the backside of the dash in a trough and out the side like a water fall.  There is also water running  down into a hole in the dash where the wiper motor sits.  This is above the gauges.  It then seems to be flowing down the instrument panel and either out near the light switch (which is why that switch tends to fail) or on the backside into a lip.  Luckily when I replaced the instrument panel I painted both sides of it with Hammerite.  It's not going to rust again.

The Jeep was pretty good for about 15-17 years.  Then things started leaking more and more.  I've been trying to track down all the leaks for years.  It hasn't been just one leak.  I think down to one or two now.  It's a slow process since I haven't really sat down and tried to make it leak yet.  The Jeep is 22 years old come Nov.

Oh another note, I've noticed a little bit of surface rust (it barley noticeable) along the seam of the windshield frame.  For you YJ guy's its the flange that the soft top plastic piece screws into along the sides.  I added some RTV to see if that's where it's leaking from.  I know it's leaking somewhere on that side of the frame.  The gap usually has some sealer smeared into it but it doesn't look like there is much of anything there anymore.  I'll snap a pic of it to add to the collection later.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: YJWralph on May 06, 2012, 10:05:13 AM
If it'll help, here's where some of my water comes from...

(http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/YJWralph/Untitled.jpg)

(http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/YJWralph/Untitled-1.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 06, 2012, 10:37:55 AM
If it'll help, here's where some of my water comes from...
yeah that was one of the problem areas that I think I have fixed.  It rained recently. It not that hard.  No leaks yet.  I'll have to check it though.  With the rain season over I've got to finish my AC install.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: FourbangerYJ on May 06, 2012, 07:43:38 PM
yeah that was one of the problem areas that I think I have fixed.  It rained recently. It not that hard.  No leaks yet.  I'll have to check it though.  With the rain season over I've got to finish my AC install.

Did you find those metric bolts you were looking for?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 06, 2012, 07:47:47 PM
Did you find those metric bolts you were looking for?
Not yet.  I have a friend that's going to see if he has any.  I did find http://www.boltdepot.com/ but I haven't looked into how good they are.  Everyone else wants you go buy 20-50.  I need 2 or each.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: FourbangerYJ on May 06, 2012, 07:50:17 PM
I saw some at the Do-it center the other day. I don't remember what size you needed. But I know they had some that were 120mm long. What size are you looking for? The ones I saw were $4.00 each.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 06, 2012, 07:53:10 PM
I saw some at the Do-it center the other day. I don't remember what size you needed. But I know they had some that were 120mm long. What size are you looking for? The ones I saw were $4.00 each.
M8 1.25 x 110 and M8 1.25 x 100 in 8.8 and Zinc.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: FourbangerYJ on May 06, 2012, 07:57:31 PM
M8 1.25 x 110 and M8 1.25 x 100 in 8.8 and Zinc.
I'll check and see.

Did you try fastenal?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on May 06, 2012, 07:58:45 PM
what are those for?
8.8=Grade 5
you can make them out of 5/16 bolts that are 6'' long (cut the standard thread and rethread with M8). I can make you some if Scott can't find them, how many do you need and how long the thread?

EDIT: I might be able to find them here, got some M6x50, not sure if M8x100 is available though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 06, 2012, 08:04:41 PM
I'll check and see.

Did you try fastenal?
Nope, they are closed on weekends.

I forgot to mention they need t be partial thread.

Yes, 8.8 is Grade 5.  They're for mounting my AC Compressor onto the stock mount. With a plate and spacer for my OBA.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: FourbangerYJ on May 06, 2012, 08:07:11 PM
Nope, they are closed on weekends.

I forgot to mention they need t be partial thread.

Yes, 8.8 is Grade 5.  They're for mounting my AC Compressor onto the stock mount. With a plate and spacer for my OBA.

Do you need the nuts too? Do you need 2 or each size bolt?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 06, 2012, 08:18:03 PM
Do you need the nuts too? Do you need 2 or each size bolt?
I'm looking for 2 of each, no nuts.  If they're cheap enough then maybe 4 of the 100's.  I need to figure out how to do the top strap for the compressor bracket.  I don't have the Kilby top bracket.  I was thinking an adjustable-rod setup.  You can see it here: http://onboardair.com/web-instructions/ke-1000.pdf  The problem Brad had with the kit was that the 2.5L broke those upper straps.  I think it was because of the tension the strap was under and the vibrations from the engine.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on May 06, 2012, 08:25:24 PM
you can also use threaded rod with nuts on top


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 06, 2012, 08:42:43 PM
you can also use threaded rod with nuts on top
I'm thinking maybe using small heims so it looks cleaner.  Wish I had a welder but I bought something else with my welder money, again.    :lol:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: FourbangerYJ on May 06, 2012, 09:06:06 PM
I'm thinking maybe using small heims so it looks cleaner.  Wish I had a welder but I bought something else with my welder money, again.    :lol:

 :deadhorse:  :lol:

If they have them IIRC they are around $4.00 each. I can swing by there tomorrow afternoon.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 06, 2012, 09:09:41 PM
:deadhorse:  :lol:

If they have them IIRC they are around $4.00 each. I can swing by there tomorrow afternoon.
Well let me check around in the next couple of days and see what I can come up with.  The ones from boltdepot.com are $1.00 and $1.10 each but I need to see what kind of reviews they get.  Fastenel's within 15 minutes so I'll give them a call too.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: FourbangerYJ on May 06, 2012, 09:12:14 PM
Well let me check around in the next couple of days and see what I can come up with.  The ones from boltdepot.com are $1.00 and $1.10 each but I need to see what kind of reviews they get.  Fastenel's within 15 minutes so I'll give them a call too.

I would imagine one of those places would have them. I'll wait until I hear from you.

Why do you need to review- reviews? They are bolts??


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 06, 2012, 09:21:31 PM
I would imagine one of those places would have them. I'll wait until I hear from you.

Why do you need to review- reviews? They are bolts??
A review of the company before I order from an unknown.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on May 06, 2012, 10:01:04 PM
I'm thinking maybe using small heims so it looks cleaner.  Wish I had a welder but I bought something else with my welder money, again.    :lol:

i meant threaded rod instead of the 100mm long bolts

i wouldn't bother with the heims though, you just need a sturdy bracket (i would go 1/4'')


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 06, 2012, 10:13:37 PM
i meant threaded rod instead of the 100mm long bolts

i wouldn't bother with the heims though, you just need a sturdy bracket (i would go 1/4'')
I'd rather use bolts.  I don't need something else to go wrong.   :lol:

Like I said the strap bracket had a tendency of snapping off.  And yes, they were 1/4".  They would break the at the weld leaving a clean weld on one side.  It needs to be adjustable or custom so as not to pull the compressor bracket at all.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on May 06, 2012, 10:41:27 PM
that's b/c that flat piece was too long and was vibrating, you will need to gusset that or if i was to make it i would have a gusset welded from the middle of that bracket to a flat bar bolted to the other 2 bolts as well, would give it more strength and cut down on vibrations or resonance even (which could have been the issue). small heims use either 3/8'' or 5/16 NF thread, too small for what you need, there are the ones that have a rod rather than a threaded hole but the cost is prohibitive from what i saw, and they aren't solid (which is what you need since your mount is prone to vibrating, your heims will not make it rock solid since that mount even though it's thick will still bend when you tighten the heim rod).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 06, 2012, 10:56:12 PM
that's b/c that flat piece was too long and was vibrating, you will need to gusset that or if i was to make it i would have a gusset welded from the middle of that bracket to a flat bar bolted to the other 2 bolts as well, would give it more strength and cut down on vibrations or resonance even (which could have been the issue). small heims use either 3/8'' or 5/16 NF thread, too small for what you need, there are the ones that have a rod rather than a threaded hole but the cost is prohibitive from what i saw, and they aren't solid (which is what you need since your mount is prone to vibrating, your heims will not make it rock solid since that mount even though it's thick will still bend when you tighten the heim rod).
It was a fairly common occurrence which is why the design was changed.  Although, I'm not sure if they had the same problems with the ones with AC as they did without AC.  The bracket for the AC kit is a lot shorter then the one for without.  I think it also helped that the AC bracket is basically pulling parallel and not at a 45* angle like the non-ac.  If I had a welder I would probably weld a new support bracket as I have both end flanges.

On another front, I still have to get some bearings for my alternator as well.  Since the serp. belt has to come off anyway, I'm trying to do it all at once.  Swap the York pulley to a V as well.  Luckily I have both pulley's already.  If I don't get the bearings I might just swap the alt. pulley then do it again once I get my HD alternator running again.  I hate having to do things twice though.

All these projects are one in the same though as they are hand in hand.  The AC is the priority though.  Need to get that installed and charged before summer.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on May 07, 2012, 07:33:42 AM
you could use the serpentine belt on the york if you add an extra idler pulley


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 07, 2012, 07:59:31 AM
you could use the serpentine belt on the york if you add an extra idler pulley
I'm already using one now.  Can't with AC though.  The belt is already 105".  Stock with AC is 97".  BTDT, ive run this setup before back in the 90's.  The only difference is that I have AC now.  Just broke the old bracket and ended up switching kits rather then fixing it.

Here's an old pic of the OBA before it broke.  The welds broke at both ends.
(http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/kilbyyork00/bracket.jpg)

And here's the current belt routing with two pulley's.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-f2tN6TpCoQQ/Theax8chPpI/AAAAAAAAeWg/_jeLl0s2qsw/s720/CIMG1665.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 07, 2012, 12:09:11 PM
Looks like Fastenal is the place to go.  Although they don't have any in stock.

Why are the socket $.10 cheaper then the Zinc Hex?  I do like the socket heads...

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=38629
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=39600

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=39601
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=39601



Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on May 07, 2012, 12:28:29 PM
Here's an old pic of the OBA before it broke.  The welds broke at both ends.
(http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/kilbyyork00/bracket.jpg)

Tacoma Narrows Bridge - same reason, resonance and not load related


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 07, 2012, 02:54:06 PM
Tacoma Narrows Bridge - same reason, resonance and not load related
Yeah, I know why it broke, just need to figure out how I'm going to fix it.  It's been boxed for over 10 years.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 07, 2012, 03:42:48 PM
Well, I placed an order on the bolts.  Won't be in until friday.  $8-something plus tax.  Not bad.  I order 4 of the 100's and 2 of the 110's.

Local Fastenal was extremely easy to work with.  I highly recommend them.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: FourbangerYJ on May 07, 2012, 03:47:36 PM
Yeah, I know why it broke, just need to figure out how I'm going to fix it.  It's been boxed for over 10 years.

There has to be someone local that can re-weld it.

How long did it take to snap the welds?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 07, 2012, 04:14:07 PM
There has to be someone local that can re-weld it.

How long did it take to snap the welds?
Oh the support bar is long gone.  I think I lost that back in the 90's!  (I think it took several months to a year before it broke) Now that I have an AC compressor, it needs to be more like this:  Which is why I need to mount the compressor so I can route the AC lines and make sure they clear everything.  Once the AC is charged, it will need to be discharged if I ever need to move a hose.

(http://www.onboardair.com/images/kits/ke-1000/yorkinstall4.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: FourbangerYJ on May 07, 2012, 04:19:39 PM
So your plan is to add a support bar with some heim's and some sort of bar in place of the steel strap?
I wonder if some rubber grommets would help keep the vibes down enough to keep it from snapping things?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 07, 2012, 04:39:20 PM
So your plan is to add a support bar with some heim's and some sort of bar in place of the steel strap?
I wonder if some rubber grommets would help keep the vibes down enough to keep it from snapping things?
I'm not sure what I'll do just yet.  Really, I could just hang the compressor on the mount and not have the belt hooked up, till I figure something out.  I forget if I added the OBA before or after the MM's though.  I did the York in 2000 and the MM in 2001.  I think the bracket broke around then.  If that's the case then the mounts probably didn't help.

Maybe see if I can add some small L brackets and use small heims.  Or do a U bracket maybe.  I think as long as there's no preload on the support, it will be fine.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on May 07, 2012, 05:04:55 PM
Yeah, I know why it broke, just need to figure out how I'm going to fix it.  It's been boxed for over 10 years.

from the other set of bolts go with another bracket to the center for the existing one (this will shorten the length which can vibrate). If you want to make it rock solid go with a 1/4'' flat bar, 1/2'' wide welded at 90 deg on the existing one on one of the sides, will be literally indestructible.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 07, 2012, 05:09:23 PM
from the other set of bolts go with another bracket to the center for the existing one (this will shorten the length which can vibrate). If you want to make it rock solid go with a 1/4'' flat bar, 1/2'' wide welded at 90 deg on the existing one on one of the sides, will be literally indestructible.
Well, I don't want it cracking the alternator bracket either.  Seen that happen a few times as well.  I think some flexing is OK.  I just don't want it throwing the V-belt when not in use.  The belt tension is adjusted by moving the compressor up and down on the bracket.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on May 07, 2012, 05:47:10 PM
Well, I don't want it cracking the alternator bracket either.  Seen that happen a few times as well.  I think some flexing is OK.  I just don't want it throwing the V-belt when not in use.  The belt tension is adjusted by moving the compressor up and down on the bracket.
you mean the combo support for alt and a/c? i would think it would crack due to vibrations also and not from reinforcement, the strain on that mount would be the same imo with the mid bracket or without it since you already have the horizontal plate going under the a/c compressor.

EDIT: i think i know what you mean now, i meant have the additional bracket to the other 2 a/c bolts (the ones towards the inner fender) and not to the york mounting bolts. you would need 2 more 110mm long bolts though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on May 29, 2012, 04:12:58 PM
Woo, hoo!  The Jeep passed it's emission test.  I didn't think it would fail but AI was wondering how the smaller tires would change things.  Doesn't look like it changed things much at all emission wise.  Now I can start getting my AC finished.  Well, if I can get rid of this cold I have.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 12, 2012, 10:32:24 PM
Well my Jeep kicked my butt today.  Tried to install the AC Compressor and ended up not getting it done.  First problem was getting the old OBA bracket out.  There are two allen head bolts that sit flush under the York.  Well those weren't moving.  I tried using a SAE allen socket set and ended up stripping out one.  Turns out they are M8!  I forgot all about that.  Still when I tried an metric allen socket on the other side, it wasn't budging.  At least I was able to get the York removed.  I ended up taking the alternator off and taking the bracket out so I could work on it on the bench.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cFibcms6Zgk/UFK0FM-N87I/AAAAAAAAluM/o_idopVV5W4/s800/IMG_1167.jpg)

I noticed that the bolts could be seen on the underside so I started drilling.  I did a pilot hole and worked my way up.  Ok, got one side done.  Now the other...  While drilling the pilot the drill bit snapped.  Crap!  Now what?  Well maybe I can drill it out still. No such luck.  Tried some special bits and they weren't working either.  Drilled a larger hole from the top and hit the drill bit.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SsI2_SxVd3Q/UFK0GBVkLpI/AAAAAAAAluM/TfUcE2-JJhI/s800/IMG_1168.jpg)

So I tried the EZ-outs.  I hate these things.  With a pop, the first bolt came out clean.  I thought things were going well for once.  Tried the second one.  Instead of a pop, I hear the snap!  Now the EZ-out is broken in the head while the drill bit is broken through the rest of it.  OK now what?

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XyoPh1WWrmU/UFK0GlXsSuI/AAAAAAAAluM/LTDHyZdt954/s800/IMG_1169.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TVZfXCVmCuE/UFK0J1Y3A3I/AAAAAAAAluM/xF5DwbYIfJI/s800/IMG_1172.jpg)

Had to think about it for a while.  Since it was the only bolt holding the plate on, I tried smacking the plate.  It turned!  Smacked it around a few times and it came out!  Now I had to put the bracket back on as well as all of the pulley's I took off.  Not to mention the alternator!  Got that all sorted so now I'm back on track!  I found a 1/4" steel bar that I had used for light mounts at one time.  Turns out the holes matched up nicely to the bracket and I could use it as a spacer.  The sun had already gone down but I managed to paint the bar.  So I get the old OBA bracket that I've had in storage since 1998 out and place it under the new compressor now sitting on the AC bracket.  Used the bolts I sourced and new washers I had just picked up.  Somethings not right!  Only one bolt is threading in.  Turns out the spacing on the compressor is 1/4" out too far!  I think the compressor is for a TJ!

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FNZ9CAa_eGw/UFJ4eBx_s6I/AAAAAAAAlNU/t5xFvqlcO2c/s800/IMG_1177.jpg)

So, since I buggered up the bolts for the other OBA bracket the York isn't going back in.  I don't seem to know where my original serp. belt is.  I have a 90", 100.5" the new 97" but no 71"!

I wrote an email to Jeepair to see what they say.  I also ordered a 71" belt from Amazon since no one has one locally.  So now my Jeep sits in the driveway with no belt.  Hopefully the new belt will come on Thursday.  Maybe I'll get the compressor sorted out by the weekend.  In either case this week was a total wash.  Nothing really got done other then making the Jeep non-op.  Now, I've got to borrow a car.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on June 13, 2012, 05:11:57 AM
that sucks big time, they totally messed up your kit. i can imagine how you feel.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: neale_rs on June 13, 2012, 06:56:46 AM
I hope Jeepair gets it sorted out quickly for you. 



Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 13, 2012, 08:26:41 AM
that sucks big time, they totally messed up your kit. i can imagine how you feel.
I got a reply and he, the owner wants to see a pic.  I think the compressor is for a TJ.  Strange that they changed the compressor for them and not just carried over the YJ.  In any case, I'm hoping to get a reply back.  It has been several months since I ordered my kit but I'm hopeful.

Here's a recap.  I ordered the http://www.jeepair.com/air-conditioning/1987-1995-yj-wrangler-ac-kit-no-compressor-1991.php.  The kit doesn't come with a compressor but should of had crimped hoses.  I ended up buying a crimper for $155 although I could have sent my hoses back and they would crimp them.  Locally, they would have charged me about as much.  At least I'll have the tool and will be able to make my own lines.

I think this is the compressor they sent me.  http://www.jeepair.com/air-conditioning/cherokee-wrangler-brand-new-compressor-1007.php.  I asked specifically for a compressor that would fit my '92.  It was also the part that supposedly delayed my order since they didn't have any.

The reason for getting an OEM style compressor was so I could reuse my York.  The compressor that they usually use with the kit has tabs instead of mounting studs and has to sit on an additional bracket.  They also stagger the compressor outboard so it makes using my OBA bracket complicated.  I don't want to be stacking adapters onto adapters.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on June 13, 2012, 09:41:53 AM
i'm pretty sure the TJ bracket is the same as the YJ (but i could be wrong since i never measured them), maybe it's a GC one


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 13, 2012, 10:08:20 AM
i'm pretty sure the TJ bracket is the same as the YJ (but i could be wrong since i never measured them), maybe it's a GC one
I'm gonna say they're different.  I looked on Kilby's site and they show two different brackets for the mount I have.  One for '91-'95 and the other '95-'98.  The mount uses the AC bolt pattern.

Oh and here's a pic of the rest of the puzzle I'm dealing with.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a3B5pG8SyQI/UFJ4eNeeYEI/AAAAAAAAlNU/7NU3c4BVABk/s800/IMG_1180.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 14, 2012, 04:54:26 PM
The owner emailed me back saying I should have the right compressor but he's going to get to the bottom of it tomorrow morning.

I got my 71.5" belt today so the Jeep runs!  I'm getting quite the collection of serp. belts now!  Also I seem to have stripped the upper bolt on the PS pump.   :brick:  I'll have to see if I can put a longer bolt in there since it's threaded all the way through.

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iOUbiGr6aIs/UFKySXpi2kI/AAAAAAAAlso/XqaSDeKEqXg/s800/IMG_1183.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hBkuybrLAo4/UFKyTqCpxRI/AAAAAAAAlso/I9v_m5We3KQ/s800/IMG_1185.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: FourbangerYJ on June 14, 2012, 05:06:34 PM
Can you return the ones that won't fit?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 14, 2012, 06:53:00 PM
Can you return the ones that won't fit?
The compressor?  I'm talking to the owner about it.  He's going to get a resolution tomorrow for me.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: FourbangerYJ on June 14, 2012, 08:10:52 PM
The compressor?  I'm talking to the owner about it.  He's going to get a resolution tomorrow for me.

Belts.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 14, 2012, 08:37:54 PM
Belts.
They're all different ages.  I seem to manage to replace them before they wear out.  I don't think I've spent more then $20 for each.  The one in the 715 sleeve dates back to 98 or 99.  The 1005 is from 2006 or so I think.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on June 14, 2012, 11:44:44 PM
they're good for lifting stuff, i'd be cautious with using them after 14 years of sitting on a shelf


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 15, 2012, 07:58:15 AM
they're good for lifting stuff, i'd be cautious with using them after 14 years of sitting on a shelf
in any case, none have cracks or dry rot.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 15, 2012, 05:09:16 PM
Well, I feel stupid!  The owner asked if I tried flipping the compressor over and I thought I did.  I guess in all the heat I flipped it twice and didn't notice!

So the compressor is in!  One thing I have learned is to be very careful with tightening the bolts.  I tightened one bolt and heard the pop.  I broke 2-3 threads out of the top of one of the holes in the Au mount.  Luckily, I had longer bolts and 75% of the thread was OK.  I don't think I even got to 25lbs-ft before it popped.  Unless my torque wrench wasn't reading it.  I tightened them all by hand.  I think I got them around 18-20lbs.

The other thing I've noticed is that with all the compressors, my engine looks twice it's size now.  There's a lot less room to move around in.  I need to tap out my fender a little to clear the York again.  It's rubbing a bit....  OK, it's resting on the fender.  I also think the 96.5" belt is a bit too long.  It was supposed to fit and it does but I have the tension bolt all the way out to get the .5" flex I need.  I think a 95.5" or even a 95" would have been more correct.  Funny thing is you get a huge range of sizes that say they will fit and I went with what I thought was one size up from middle ground.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on June 15, 2012, 09:04:26 PM
Well, I feel stupid!  The owner asked if I tried flipping the compressor over and I thought I did.  I guess in all the heat I flipped it twice and didn't notice!

So the compressor is in!  One thing I have learned is to be very careful with tightening the bolts.  I tightened one bolt and heard the pop.  I broke 2-3 threads out of the top of one of the holes in the Au mount.  Luckily, I had longer bolts and 75% of the thread was OK.  I don't think I even got to 35lbs-ft before it popped.  Unless my torque wrench wasn't reading it.  I tightened them all by hand.  I think I got them around 25-30lbs.


35ftlbs is way over the limit for an M8 bolt, that would be for a 3/8 grade 8 bolt (with oiled threads) which is close to an M10 10.9 grade. For M8 if it says 8.8 on the head (similar to 5/16 grade 5 bolt) you should torque to 18ftlb or about 14 if you lube the threads. M8 10.9 goes up to 27 and 20 if lubed threads. Even with a 12.9 grade you'd go up to 31 ftlb dry or 24 lubed.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 15, 2012, 09:32:25 PM
35ftlbs is way over the limit for an M8 bolt, that would be for a 3/8 grade 8 bolt (with oiled threads) which is close to an M10 10.9 grade. For M8 if it says 8.8 on the head (similar to 5/16 grade 5 bolt) you should torque to 18ftlb or about 14 if you lube the threads. M8 10.9 goes up to 27 and 20 if lubed threads. Even with a 12.9 grade you'd go up to 31 ftlb dry or 24 lubed.
I think I'm probably closer to 16-18 if anything.  Hand tight then 1/8.  They're supposed to be 20lbs.ft


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on June 15, 2012, 11:05:26 PM
I think I'm probably closer to 16-18 if anything.  Hand tight then 1/8.  They're supposed to be 20lbs.ft

fyi the metric socket head (the black ones) are 12.9 (in case you buy other ones in the future).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 16, 2012, 12:13:45 AM
fyi the metric socket head (the black ones) are 12.9 (in case you buy other ones in the future).
nope don't need them but good to know.  I doubt I'll ever go back to the old OBA setup since I'll have AC soon.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 19, 2012, 08:37:22 PM
It's finally coming together.  I don't have any hardware left other then the hoses.  The Dryer went in without too much trouble.  Although it uses self-tapping screws.  Problem is I can just imagine the screws ripping my sidewall open when I have the tire stuffed.  I'm going to have to swap them out for bolts and put the head in the wheel well.
 Oh and my new belt arrived.  94.5"  Boy was that tight.  I barely for it on with the tensioner all the way in.  Once it was on I had to adjust it out so it looks good.  I can see it's going to be a PITA to change belts since I have to unbolt the AC compressor to loosen the York to get the small V-belt off.  Also, it's going to be a PITA to change spark plugs with the AC compressor in the way.  Oh, well!

Also my hose crimper arrived a few days ago.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-clGcWuUEzyc/UFJ4eLGYVMI/AAAAAAAAlNU/HP0jGwuTBb4/s800/IMG_1205.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on June 19, 2012, 11:05:12 PM

Also my hose crimper arrived a few days ago.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u2bFcDnNKe0/T-FDD4432EI/AAAAAAAAjc4/TCm0dNy7lr0/s720/IMG_1205.jpg)
that's a nice crimper, what's the min/max size it can take? got a get me one of those one of these days.

EDIT: just checked on Amazon and it's $197+shipping, somehow i remember you mentioned something around $150 - was it sold by aToolCrib or some other seller? I don't need one right now but just wondering.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 19, 2012, 11:42:32 PM
that's a nice crimper, what's the min/max size it can take? got a get me one of those one of these days.

EDIT: just checked on Amazon and it's $197+shipping, somehow i remember you mentioned something around $150 - was it sold by aToolCrib or some other seller? I don't need one right now but just wondering.
It was sold by Amazon.  It sells for $155 but I had a $100 gift card.  I figure it was worth it to get the crisper I case I need to redo the hoses for an engine swap or something.

It has dies for 6, 8, 10 and 12, iirc.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 22, 2012, 12:57:45 PM
Ok, I've looked and can't find my hole saws.  Should I go with a bi-metal hole saw or a step bit?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: grumpygy on June 22, 2012, 01:31:55 PM
Ok, I've looked and can't find my hole saws.  Should I go with a bi-metal hole saw or a step bit?

Up to say 3/4 Go step Bit much larger go Hole saw.  But it also depends on the metal thickness you are working on.  If its thin go the hole saw as the step bit will grab and bend the metal.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 22, 2012, 01:54:24 PM
Up to say 3/4 Go step Bit much larger go Hole saw.  But it also depends on the metal thickness you are working on.  If its thin go the hole saw as the step bit will grab and bend the metal.
Ok, it's 1-1/4" so I'll stick with the hole saw.  I have to drill two holes through the firewall.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: grumpygy on June 22, 2012, 04:22:24 PM
Ok, it's 1-1/4" so I'll stick with the hole saw.  I have to drill two holes through the firewall.

Just checked and the Step Bit I have goes to 1 1/8".


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 22, 2012, 09:03:40 PM
Just checked and the Step Bit I have goes to 1 1/8".
They go up to 1-3/8" from what I've seen.  But I need a clean hole.  I'll just get he bi-metal hole saw.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: grumpygy on June 22, 2012, 09:45:44 PM
Do know anything over say 3/4 will almost rip your arm off.  I used to use a 7/8 daily on Aluminum maybe 30-40 holes a day.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 22, 2012, 09:52:29 PM
Do know anything over say 3/4 will almost rip your arm off.  I used to use a 7/8 daily on Aluminum maybe 30-40 holes a day.
Good deal, that's what I wanted to know.  Hole saw it is.  Funny thing is after a week of 100* temps, it's dropped to the 50's and will be in the 70-80's for a while.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on June 22, 2012, 11:45:01 PM
or get a knockout punch kit from H/F

http://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-91201.html



Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 23, 2012, 12:52:45 AM
or get a knockout punch kit from H/F

http://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-91201.html


judging by the reviews I'd be better off with the hole saw.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on June 23, 2012, 06:59:01 AM
judging by the reviews I'd be better off with the hole saw.

I looked at the reviews, the 1-1/4'' is fine since it's using a larger bolt, the smaller ones are stripping, but it's $15.
brand names are lot more money.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: chardrc on June 23, 2012, 08:11:07 AM
or get a knockout punch kit from H/F

http://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-91201.html



I have a few of those (name brand ones though) and they work quite well. left a nice clean hole in the rear fender well of the yj... :driving:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on June 23, 2012, 08:44:11 AM
obviously H/F is lower quality, i think people strip or bend the bolt on the smaller ones as they don't mark the position and the punch is not lined up with the die. They make a clean hole and the diameter is the actual one (with the holesaw it's always larger thank posted diameter).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: grumpygy on June 23, 2012, 09:46:12 AM
Only Problem with a punch kit, you need really long arm to get to both sides of the Fire wall at once. :slapfight:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on June 23, 2012, 10:05:10 AM
Only Problem with a punch kit, you need really long arm to get to both sides of the Fire wall at once. :slapfight:

not really, just put the bolt thru and use some tape across it or lean something on it so it won't fall out, you just need to start a few threads on the other side and then figer tight the bolt, line it up and you're good to go.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 23, 2012, 11:04:13 PM
I ordered one of these. Couldn't find one locally.  Lots of wood hole saws and some impact hole saw for some special tool.

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31Sbuo2EA4L._SL500_AA300_.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: grumpygy on June 24, 2012, 09:37:12 AM
Since you are waiting for the hole saw anyway.  Order a tube of this.

http://www.itwfpg.com/acculube/hand_applied/stick.html


  It will save your hole saw.  Keeps from burning it up.  I used this stuff all the time at my last place it also helps the Teeth to clear material so it cuts better too.   If you are drilling or cutting aluminum this stuff works wonders, aluminum will not build up on the drilll bit or saw teeth.

One tube will last you a very long time and it does not go bad.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: aw12345 on June 24, 2012, 11:22:34 AM
I ordered one of these. Couldn't find one locally.  Lots of wood hole saws and some impact hole saw for some special tool.

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31Sbuo2EA4L._SL500_AA300_.jpg)

Lowes and Home depot or any decent tool store carries hole saws for metal.
They do not come cheap though


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on June 24, 2012, 12:08:05 PM
Lowes and Home depot or any decent tool store carries hole saws for metal.
They do not come cheap though

the thing with home depot is they only carries standard sizes for construction work (at least here in Canada that's the case) looked for an odd size there and the selection was slim - you can get a set but that's way too expensive and not sure if 1-1/4 would be in the kit. I usually get them at KMS tools or KBC tools but like you say any tool store should have them. Not sure about lowes since we don't have them here.

Since you are waiting for the hole saw anyway.  Order a tube of this.

http://www.itwfpg.com/acculube/hand_applied/stick.html


  It will save your hole saw.  Keeps from burning it up.  I used this stuff all the time at my last place it also helps the Teeth to clear material so it cuts better too.   If you are drilling or cutting aluminum this stuff works wonders, aluminum will not build up on the drilll bit or saw teeth.

One tube will last you a very long time and it does not go bad.

for cutting lubrication in steel i use buttercut tapping/cutting fluid, it's not cheap but you only need a few drops now and then, i use the stick for zip cutting or grinding aluminum, for sure it works some magic from having the chips load up or sticking to the disc.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: grumpygy on June 24, 2012, 01:55:39 PM
Really surprised me how well the Stick lube worked I used to use WD-40 but the stick lube is 100% better.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 24, 2012, 01:58:27 PM
Really surprised me how well the Stick lube worked I used to use WD-40 but the stick lube is 100% better.
WD-40 isn't a lubricant.   :lol:  I have some 3 in 1 I might use...   :wall:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: grumpygy on June 24, 2012, 02:46:11 PM
Thats all they would allow us to use at one place.  I would pick ip some cutting fluid as was said above.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: aw12345 on June 24, 2012, 02:57:26 PM
If all you are cutting is sheetmetal use a slow turning 1/2" drill motor and no fluid is needed. Key is to keep the cutting speed low. If you try to cut through a 1" or something similar cutting fluid would be a good thing


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 24, 2012, 03:21:12 PM
If all you are cutting is sheetmetal use a slow turning 1/2" drill motor and no fluid is needed. Key is to keep the cutting speed low. If you try to cut through a 1" or something similar cutting fluid would be a good thing
Yeah, it's just two holes through the firewall.  Not a big deal


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on June 28, 2012, 08:52:02 PM
Drilled away.  Stupid arbor bit bent at the flat spot where the grub screw holds it when it grabbed.  I tapped it straight and continued to drill.  Man, those are some BIG holes in the body.  A little bit of over-spray on the duct but no one will really see it.

Now I have to build the hoses.  I wish they were pre-crimped.  The good thing is they gave me a lot of extra hose.  I'll probably keep the extra length so I have room to move things around a bit when I have to move the compressor or evaporator.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7l9w_osMotM/UFJ4eGGBc_I/AAAAAAAAlNU/5GhQEbjC_x8/s800/IMG_1239.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ohFWb4tLeVw/UFJ4eFerIPI/AAAAAAAAlNU/Tai15qi9A1U/s800/IMG_1242.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BqckHsn42kk/UFJ4eMGhFSI/AAAAAAAAlNU/ZzzWOOsZXPA/s800/IMG_1244.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LIGS1Uh93F4/UFJ4eJx9B2I/AAAAAAAAlNU/y0sk1a6Vlz0/s800/IMG_1246.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on July 06, 2012, 08:49:35 AM
Another minor update.  Tried to run the lines so I can get an idea of what lengths I need to cut the hoses.  I'm glad that I didn't get the pre-cut kit as I needed a lot more hose to get around my York.  Running the hose straight under the York brought it really close to the belt.  So with the extra length I was able to route it around the York with enough clearance not to be an issue.  Then I ran into a show stopper.  The compressor fittings didn't match the compressor.  The compressor has two #10's while I had a #10 and a #8.  Also, one of the #6 for the Evaporator was a straight and I needed a 45* which it does mention in the instructions.  So I sent off an email to Joe at Jeepair and he's working on it.  I sent him pics of the fittings to make sure I'm not mixing them up but I don't think I did.

The other things I had to do was re-route some wiring and the disconnect cable which was good since they needed to be tidied up a bit.  I think I need to raise the dryer up a bit so the switch can go on the fender side as well.  Might have to drill some new holes again as well.

This project sure is dragging on longer then I expected.

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wpBtAJmygbU/UFKZ3QeK-TI/AAAAAAAAlkA/TJ_KEUuw2NU/s800/IMG_1274.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b7qMgOooBpc/UFKZ4MhwzqI/AAAAAAAAlkA/aV4kkFV_znE/s800/IMG_1275.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4UoE6EGNlvM/UFKZ6iNKVNI/AAAAAAAAlkA/TJaCrDhBOiU/s800/IMG_1276.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: grumpygy on July 06, 2012, 10:29:09 AM
Winter will be here soon :blbl: :slapfight:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on July 06, 2012, 10:45:44 AM
Winter will be here soon :blbl: :slapfight:
Well, summer isn't here yet.  The York has complicated things but in the end I'll have OBA & AC.

Oh and Joe/Jeepair is sending out new fittings.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on July 09, 2012, 08:20:58 AM
Well, I saw signs that Mt. Vesuvius is about to erupt today.  That can mean only one thing.  Pancakes! What a huge set back!  At least it happened now and not after I have the AC charged!  I'm supposed to get my new fittings today as well.  Not to mention we're supposed to have a mini-heat-wave that peaks on Tuesday.  Couldn't get the steam in the pic.  No waterworks yet so it must be just a pin-hole.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0Hwy6hOR4M0/T_r2hNop3dI/AAAAAAAAjtI/rnC5rgtbqq0/s640/IMG_1286.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on July 09, 2012, 12:04:41 PM
Back to square one.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Jz5GE_VRn6U/UFKaCCI-WqI/AAAAAAAAlkI/oPqnTQgmBto/s800/IMG_1289.jpg)

Battery Tray is out!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jDTZ-kqmO3g/UFKaEGMw0AI/AAAAAAAAlkI/sUG1BAgSUoM/s800/IMG_1291.jpg)

I didn't know there was a drain for the vent.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Fi4WD0EXRmA/UFKaG1kd3zI/AAAAAAAAlkI/pOs_4H49q-4/s800/IMG_1293.jpg)

Golden Showers for everyone!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qWKSUNsMmV8/UFKaIJq4v-I/AAAAAAAAlkI/vkJ3SSoJDcs/s800/IMG_1294.jpg)

Still love my Optima.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_43jORJbbao/UFKaJ8vrlsI/AAAAAAAAlkI/F5HbLPGV4bA/s800/IMG_1297.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: neale_rs on July 09, 2012, 12:11:54 PM
Haven't been able to figure out what exactly happened. 


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on July 09, 2012, 12:43:05 PM
Haven't been able to figure out what exactly happened. 
Heater core crapped itself.  Better now then later though.  It would have been a real PITA trying to get the duct past the evaporator housing.  Just picked up a new core for $46.  If I don't slack off too much I should have it all back together by either today or tomorrow.

It is nice to be able to get under the battery for routing the AC hoses but I want to have some slack in the lines so if something like this ever happens again, I'll have some room to be able to pull the evaporator away from the dash while still connected.  Well, that's the plan at least.  I know I can't change the #1 spark plug with the compressor in the way.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: neale_rs on July 09, 2012, 02:54:50 PM
Yeah, better now than later.  Good luck with the repairs.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on July 09, 2012, 09:17:16 PM
Well, I broke one of those clips that holds the cable to the duct.  Actually couldn't figure out how to get it off, wasted too much time looking at it and just pulled till it came off.  Then after I get the dust out I figured out how to get it off without having to resort to breaking it off.  I used RTV to hold it in place now.  The duct wasn't too hard to remove.  Had to take the battery tray out which is a bit of a pain in and of itself.  Got a new core that happened to be aluminum.  No screws which is a bit weird.  I added some foam RV strips to one side since I could't get the foam off the old core without tearing it.  So it's all back together and looks good.  Well, it looks like it did before which is to say without green coolant all over the place.

I took a bunch of phone pics so I might put something together as a how-not-to:.

Tomorrow I'll have to reinstall the evaporator but at least the Jeep runs again.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on July 20, 2012, 08:25:23 PM
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EnLogq5SL6M/UFJ4eL-CrsI/AAAAAAAAlNU/TIGNa5Pt_R4/s800/IMG_1375.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sOSvUXGZR6o/UFJ4eK6_oEI/AAAAAAAAlNU/XiSaCd9cYD4/s800/IMG_1377.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--2GJBUfVinI/UFJ4eLTHGzI/AAAAAAAAlNU/uWGKeOE44UQ/s800/IMG_1378.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-idXp72pNaG0/UFJ4eGr5tZI/AAAAAAAAlNU/KvTlH6MNSzo/s800/IMG_1384.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-dCBAgctXAIk/UFJ4eJ9PQ-I/AAAAAAAAlNU/-EO7vKmAwn4/s800/IMG_1387.jpg)

Ran into an issue with one of the fittings though.  When tightened down to the compressor it wobbles which I'm thinking isn't going to cut it.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/s6Hg0KIQCUiRyu_zBXmK19MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: aw12345 on July 20, 2012, 11:21:04 PM
looks to me you are either missing something or the compressor should have a 45 degree type taper at the end of the fitting


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on July 21, 2012, 12:41:11 AM
Did some searching an it looks like blue is supposed to be on thightower pressure/ suction side and red on the high pressure side.  I think I have it reversed.   Anyone can confirm?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Mozman68 on July 21, 2012, 05:43:43 AM
I don't have any tube fitting to do...but I really want want of those machines in my garage.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: aw12345 on July 21, 2012, 06:13:42 AM
Blue is low pressure/ suction side and should be a larger dia hose
red is the high pressure side and is a smaller dia hose. What's confusing is that the charge fittings are reversed from that small is low press and big high press


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on July 21, 2012, 10:31:10 AM
I don't have any tube fitting to do...but I really want want of those machines in my garage.
It's really nicely made.  All aluminum.  I paid $55 for it since I had a Amazon card for $100.  Amazon is still the cheapest place to get it.  It comes with a #6, #8, #10 and #12 dies.  That pretty much covers all your fittings.

Blue is low pressure/ suction side and should be a larger dia hose
red is the high pressure side and is a smaller dia hose. What's confusing is that the charge fittings are reversed from that small is low press and big high press
The compressor has both sides using the same size, I think it might be metric as well.  I have the other fittings that have the red cap on a #8 and the blue on a #10 but they don't fit the OEM compressor.

I sent an email to Jon at Jeepair yesterday and he said it shouldn't rattle like that and he'll send me a new one.  That takes a week which kinda sucks but I've still got to pull my radiator back so I can tighten the fittings back there.  I'll wait and swap the lines once I get the new fitting.

I guess I'll mention it here as well.  I found a nice trick to get the #10 hose and grommet into the 1.25" hole.  The grommet is supposed to be put on the hose before slipping it through the hole.  I found it very difficult to get the grommet in.  The small space you have to work in doesn't help any either.  I even pulled the passenger seat to get a bit more room.  I found that if you slide the grommet to the compressor side fitting and push it over the crimp so it's on the tubing, you can get the grommet into place and then push the rest of the hose through.  Just add some Windex or soapy water to ease the hose through.  It goes in so easy and takes just a minute to do. 


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 02, 2012, 09:05:37 PM
Finally getting it all together.  Got the replacement fitting and had to reroute the hoses which turned out for the better.  Pulled the radiator off the mount (while full) and was able to tighten all the hoses.  Good thing I tripple/quadruple checked all the O-rings as one was pinched.

Mounted the pressure switch and pushed the wires through the firewall.  I still have to extend two wires from the pressure switch to both the harness and the compressor.  Having to route it better because I've got to route everything past the York.  Once the wires are extended, it will all be good.  I need to add a fuse tap and see if the fans kick in as well.  So, I' thinking by next week I should have A/C.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--eaLqxyt3-Y/UBtHyteP6EI/AAAAAAAAjyk/eNt5l6kPAQg/s512/IMG_1423.jpg)(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FH6NSVk3LMQ/UBtIFpPrEHI/AAAAAAAAjzA/1jiDuGn56zQ/s512/IMG_1426.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3d19Qys4wHs/UBtI020QNBI/AAAAAAAAjz0/woO11vwwi8s/s640/IMG_1411.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 02, 2012, 10:14:15 PM
you gonna fix that brace on the York?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 02, 2012, 10:19:17 PM
you gonna fix that brace on the York?
It's not very high on my list right now.  I could take the compressor off but it's a place holder so I can properly route all the hoses and wires.  I need to replace the hose going from the compressor to the air tank as it was rotted out.  Might use copper tubing for that.

The next big project is probably the transfer case though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: FourbangerYJ on August 03, 2012, 08:36:35 AM
Are you up grading it or swapping it?



The next big project is probably the transfer case though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 03, 2012, 08:57:10 AM
Are you up grading it or swapping it?
I've specifically not put any money into it over the years so I can swap it out.  I think the yoke is making noise and maybe a bearing.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 03, 2012, 09:00:15 AM
It's not very high on my list right now. 

you can just go with 2 braces and get rid of the plates that had the central one welded on. 1/4'' flat bar is strong enough, if you triangulate them to another point would be better or at least have another flat bar piece welded perpendicular to those so it won't resonate on the length - unfortunately the mount will vibrate and you might get other cracks in time if you don't do this.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 03, 2012, 09:24:13 AM
Well, like I said it's not that high on the list right now.  If I get access to a welder I might fix it sooner rather then later.  Having a bracket over the top shouldn't be a problem.  It was only the kits without AC that were prone to breaking.  The design goes back to the mid-90's and is only slightly changed from the Therold mount.  If I don't get access to a welder them I might do what Therold did and have two straps so I wouldn't have to weld.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 03, 2012, 09:29:46 AM
i can weld one for you if you want, just need some dimensions - let me know and i'll tell you what to measure.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 03, 2012, 09:39:13 AM
i can weld one for you if you want, just need some dimensions - let me know and i'll tell you what to measure.
Sure, if you're up to it.  The A/C project has lasted a lot longer then it was supposed to so I haven't worried too much about it.  The transfer case/driveshaft is starting to make noise so that's getting pushed up to the top once I finish with the A/C.  It's always something with these Jeeps.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 04, 2012, 12:50:09 AM
 - distance between bolts on the York mount (the ones that hold the brace plate)
 - distance from the A/C bolt holes to the york mount face (perpendicular to the face, horizontal line - you can use the bolts closer to the york, i can figure out the distance between the a/c compressor bolts)
 - distance on vertical from the top of the A/C mounting hole to the center of the bolts holding the brace plate on the york mount
 - (this is probably the toughest) on the direction of travel, need an offset from one of the a/c bolts to one of the holes for the brace on the york (or i can leave both braces without holes and make them a bit longer so you can drill them on the spot, maybe that would be easier and in that case just give me a rough idea what the offset is, still need the other dimensions though).

I can triangulate it from there


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 04, 2012, 06:31:07 PM
I'll try to get those measurements next week.

On Monday, I'm going to go get the A/C tested then charged.  Supposed to get into the 100's later that week.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 08, 2012, 09:14:57 PM
Took two days to get it done.  Passed the vacuum test BUT leaked like a mofo when pressurized.  The crimp on the high pressure side leaked bad.  Took it back and tried to crimp it again.  I didn't realize until later that I was using the wrong die, a 10 not an 8.  Took it back and it leaked.  Wasted about 6hr's there.  Went home and took the hose off and crimped it again using the right die.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U23U4RgIkGc/UFJ4eOBYmqI/AAAAAAAAlNU/cmQrik5zgp4/s800/IMG_1450.jpg)

I called MasterCool on the proper use of the tool and they were really nice.  Funny thing is the shop called 200psi high pressure while MasterCool said it's relatively low pressure.  I crimp the hoses a bit tighter then recommended.  MasterCool recommended to tightening it a bit more but not too much.  So I gave it an extra turn and brought it back the next day.  It passed the vacuum test as well as the pressure.  Win!  The shop, a small local garage, I took it to was very accommodating in that I was able to bring it back just for the charge and no labor.  Not sure if a big shop would do the same.

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-T74yyHi8WWA/UFJ4eDGz9AI/AAAAAAAAlNU/4UZTvW4YvlQ/s800/IMG_1455.jpg)

I've been running the system and I think I'm going to leave the fan running on the low-speed on the thermo switch.  I found that once the Jeep is warmed up, the fan kicks in quick enough that the AC isn't warming up.  At least not enough for me to notice.  The other interesting thing is I can hear and feel when the compressor is cycling.  You can hear the refrigerant get released like a pressure leak when the compressor kicks in.  When that happens it's like having two fat guy's in the back of the Jeep.  You really notice it when accelerating.  I lose the kick when I rev it past 3000 rpm that I used to have.  If you drive it like an old person then it's okay.  I haven't taken it on the highway yet but I bet it's going to be okay as well.  When I turn the temp down all the way it gets really cold.  My knees are almost freezing.

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6D2pDLMP_U0/UFJ4eNbjR6I/AAAAAAAAlNU/J_Mp-Tj8Iy0/s800/IMG_1453.jpg)

Was it worth it?  Hell, yes.  It's slow but I'm comfortable when it's over 100* outside.  I'd rather be comfortable then fast.  Not to mention I leave the hard top on year around.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 08, 2012, 10:16:05 PM
you need to have the fan running when the compressor is running


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 08, 2012, 10:21:46 PM
you need to have the fan running when the compressor is running
For the whole 5-10 seconds it's not on when not moving?

I'll have to rethink the wiring then I think.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 09, 2012, 07:51:00 AM
on commercial HVACs i've seen condenser fans controlled by a pressure switch or a PWM controller and some of them with a 2/3 stage speed (0, half, full) based on temperature, in that case i guess you can have it off at times but you can't rely on the engine coolant temp to control the pressure in the A/C, it has to be based on the pressure in the system component (condenser in this case), on top of that in the Jeep the radiator will induce more heat in the condenser if there's no airflow. Some older models refrigerators had a large vertical condenser on the back with no fan but it was unobstructed so the airflow was naturally upwards, most if not all the new ones have a more compact one force cooled. not sure if you have this (probably you do) but is very likely that there's a pressure switch that trips (and the compressor will stop) if there's not enough airflow, might be the reason you hear it cycling on and off.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 09, 2012, 08:04:06 AM
Well I talked to Jeepair and he said I should run the fan any time the AC is on.  If the fan isn't on the condenser won't condense and the pump will heat up and kill the clutch.

So I guess I need to figure out how to get the AC to switch on my fan.  I guess Would have to run a second relay.  Or could I just use a Y and have two trigger sources?

I know the pump stays on if I turn the temp control down all the way.  I believe this is normal for the AC system to cycle.  Otherwise I'd get frozen with it on all the time.  It gets really cold when the temp control is all the way down.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Mozman68 on August 09, 2012, 08:20:42 AM
Mine is set to run when the AC is on...Not sure if it the same in the YJ, but I have the info on tapping into the AC wire on a stock setup.  Yours should be even easier since you added all of the wiring for the AC after the fact.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 09, 2012, 08:21:14 AM
if it stays on all the time and the fan is off then you don't have a pressure switch (protection, if the condenser does not condensate the agent then the pressure rises),

you can use 2 trigger sources but you'll need a diode (or 2 depending how your connections are) to isolate each circuit if your current fan relay is controlled by +12v (solenoid connected to ground permanently) or maybe (i think) an intermediate relay if your fan is controlled by a ground signal (relay solenoid connected to +12v) - i'm not familiar with the Jeep a/c wiring but you get the idea. You don't need the fan on when the compressor is off so you could use the clutch control wire to activate the fan, doesn't hurt if it runs all the time when you turn on a/c but its not necessary.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 09, 2012, 09:04:45 AM
Mine is set to run when the AC is on...Not sure if it the same in the YJ, but I have the info on tapping into the AC wire on a stock setup.  Yours should be even easier since you added all of the wiring for the AC after the fact.
Sure send me it.

if it stays on all the time and the fan is off then you don't have a pressure switch (protection, if the condenser does not condensate the agent then the pressure rises),

you can use 2 trigger sources but you'll need a diode (or 2 depending how your connections are) to isolate each circuit if your current fan relay is controlled by +12v (solenoid connected to ground permanently) or maybe (i think) an intermediate relay if your fan is controlled by a ground signal (relay solenoid connected to +12v) - i'm not familiar with the Jeep a/c wiring but you get the idea. You don't need the fan on when the compressor is off so you could use the clutch control wire to activate the fan, doesn't hurt if it runs all the time when you turn on a/c but its not necessary.
The system does have a pressure switch.  it sits on the dryer which I believe is on the high pressure side.  I haven't run it long enough to see what happens when the fan isn't running.

In any case, yeah, I would have to put a diode in there.  What size do you think?  It's on the trigger side on the fan relay but I'm thinking there's no relay on the AC side.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 09, 2012, 11:08:41 AM
Sure send me it.
In any case, yeah, I would have to put a diode in there.  What size do you think?  It's on the trigger side on the fan relay but I'm thinking there's no relay on the AC side.

the relay solenoid is probably using in the tens of milliamps (probably no more than 100mA so 0.1Amps) so any diode should work (well of course not a surface mounted one :lol:), just solder and shrink wrap twice over it so it protects the terminals from bending. size isn't an issue here since you don't need a power diode with a heatsink attached to it.

where do you have your adjustable probe connected? is it to ground or +12v, if the latter then you're fine, otherwise you need to put an intermediate relay (this is assuming that your A/C on wire provides +12v, if it's ground then it's the other way around).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 09, 2012, 11:24:10 AM
the relay solenoid is probably using in the tens of milliamps (probably no more than 100mA so 0.1Amps) so any diode should work (well of course not a surface mounted one :lol:), just solder and shrink wrap twice over it so it protects the terminals from bending. size isn't an issue here since you don't need a power diode with a heatsink attached to it.

where do you have your adjustable probe connected? is it to ground or +12v, if the latter then you're fine, otherwise you need to put an intermediate relay (this is assuming that your A/C on wire provides +12v, if it's ground then it's the other way around).
The AC clutch wire is +12v as well as the thermo switch for the fan.  Could I have two diodes, one on each lead going to the trigger on the relay?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 09, 2012, 12:17:19 PM
The AC clutch wire is +12v as well as the thermo switch for the fan.  Could I have two diodes, one on each lead going to the trigger on the relay?
yep, that's probably the safest way to do it


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 09, 2012, 12:31:49 PM
yep, that's probably the safest way to do it
Think I'll have to go with a higher rated diode on the AC side?  (No relay on that circuit.)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 09, 2012, 02:09:40 PM
Think I'll have to go with a higher rated diode on the AC side?  (No relay on that circuit.)

nope, you're not going to the fan directly, you go to the command pin on the fan relay so therefore your current is whatever the relay solenoid will draw. Do not go directly to the fan, just use the same relay that you have for the fan thermo switch and isolate the 2 command wires with those diodes, but just so we are clear that is if both the thermo switch (the adjustable flex-a-lite) and the a/c on signal wire are providing the same polarity (either both ground or both +12v when "ON").


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 09, 2012, 03:24:38 PM
Well, I bit the bullet.  I ordered a DCC FK-55.  So the wait begins.  With the Fan and the AC, I think it was inevitable.  I hate waiting but the PWM and the AC bypass make it worth it, I think.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 09, 2012, 03:45:12 PM
curious how long it will take.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 09, 2012, 03:49:54 PM
curious how long it will take.
Well, the norm was 4-6 weeks.  The website really sucks too.  I guess he changed it.  They not only have a 55a and an 85a.  No FAQ anymore either.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 09, 2012, 06:15:03 PM
hmm, looks like he changed the design (they look different). 85A is still available
i wonder if he sold the business or partner with someone.

you're right, the site sucks a$$, no menu or contact information (contact us link or such).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 09, 2012, 06:17:35 PM
hmm, looks like he changed the design (they look different). 85A is still available
i wonder if he sold the business or partner with someone.

you're right, the site sucks a$$, no menu or contact information (contact us link or such).
The 85a looks like it has been updated and the 35a has been replaced by the 55a.  His descriptions could be a lot better as well.  I think the only reason to get the 85a is if you're running two high-amp fans.  Otherwise, you're safe with the 55a.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 09, 2012, 06:26:48 PM
Here's another observation with the AC.  When idling and the AC compressor kicks in the idle really takes a hit.  It drops to probably 300-400 rpm with the fan on.  Anyone know how they idle up on the OEM versions?  Trigger on the PCM?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: chardrc on August 09, 2012, 06:50:04 PM
could you tap into the power steering pressure sensor that kicks up idle when try to turn past pull lock? i think there is supposed to be an input for ac also but idk if they include that in the harness when the jeep comes without ac.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 09, 2012, 11:15:42 PM
Here's another observation with the AC.  When idling and the AC compressor kicks in the idle really takes a hit.  It drops to probably 300-400 rpm with the fan on.  Anyone know how they idle up on the OEM versions?  Trigger on the PCM?

there's a trigger wire that goes to the power steering but it's set to ground, you use that to idle up by shunting the 2 wires with a relay triggered by your compressor clutch control wire.

or you can go with the dealer install option, you send 12v from the blower switch (when you when you turn on your a/c) to pin 27 on the PCM (it's  called circuit C91 and wired with an 18 ga Light Blue wire and it is going to pin 1 in some empty connector in the cabin) - this is called the a/c request signal, it tells the PCM that the a/c is in operation. then you need to connect pin 28 at the PCM to the compressor clutch control wire, this is called a/c select switch and it tells the PCM that the compressor is in operation, it's circuit C20 and it is wired to an 18ga Brown with Red stripe wire and it goes to an empty connector in the engine compartment on pin 5.

These 2 should tell the PCM to increase the idle, that's what i take from the FSM but i can't tell you for sure - it should force the idle to 1000rmp (without the clutch and fan running so with no additional load, not sure what the actual idle is when those are in operation but i guess that value is to test the increased idle), the power steering sense only increases it to 850 with no load (just by closing the switch by hand) so that's a bit lower than the a/c sense idle (i tested the power steering but never the a/c sense/select). If you want to have a look it is in the FSM docs for '95 the file is 95YJ-8W.PDF on page 78 (8W-42-2) and diagrams 8W-42-4, 5 and 6 on the next few pages. i don't have the '94 docs at home, i can have a look tomorrow at work and see if its the same for your year, i doubt there are any differences but i can double check.

The other thing you can try is to see if only pin 28 at the PCM would increase the idle, that's the one that sends the signal telling the compressor is on, not sure if that alone would work, if you want to do just like a factory setup then use both 27 and 28 pins as described above.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: grumpygy on August 10, 2012, 09:13:22 AM
The fan controler I have

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flex-A-Lite-31165-Electric-Fan-Variable-Speed-Control-Module-w-Temperature-Prob-/221088336694?hash=item3379e44b36&item=221088336694&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

  Has a place on it so All you need to do is add one wire from the AC and the fan will run when the AC is on.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 10, 2012, 11:29:57 AM
there's a trigger wire that goes to the power steering but it's set to ground, you use that to idle up by shunting the 2 wires with a relay triggered by your compressor clutch control wire.

or you can go with the dealer install option, you send 12v from the blower switch (when you when you turn on your a/c) to pin 27 on the PCM (it's  called circuit C91 and wired with an 18 ga Light Blue wire and it is going to pin 1 in some empty connector in the cabin) - this is called the a/c request signal, it tells the PCM that the a/c is in operation. then you need to connect pin 28 at the PCM to the compressor clutch control wire, this is called a/c select switch and it tells the PCM that the compressor is in operation, it's circuit C20 and it is wired to an 18ga Brown with Red stripe wire and it goes to an empty connector in the engine compartment on pin 5.


so i'm looking at the 94 FSM, it's a bit different from what i can tell but the circuit names, PCM pins and wire colors are the same.

PCM Pin 27 a/c request signal from your on/off a/c switch blower motor switch (Circuit C91,  18ga Light blue wire) - goes to an unused connector left of the steering  column to pin/cavity 6, it's a 10 way connector (2 rows, 5 pins each) and it has 2 rounded corners at onr end where pin 1 and 6 are and 2 square corners at the other end where pins 5 and 10 are located

PCM Pin 28 a/c sense signal from your compressor clutch command wire (Circuit C20, 18ga Brown/Red Stripe wire) - goes to an unused 6 way connector (2 rows with 3 pins each) in the engine compartment to pin 5 on that connector, the connector looks almost round, it has both ends rounded and looking at the diagram i think i've seen it before on my wiring harness somewhere around the distributor but don't take my word for it although would make sense since it is close to the compressor mounting location.

it might be that i misread the 95 diagram or there is a typo in either the 95 or 94 FSM as everything is the same except for the pin cavity in the in-cab connector for circuit C91, however you can identify it easily by the wire color and size (maybe they changed the wire location between the 2 years, no big deal since you're doing a custom install anyway).

Reference: 94 FSM, 94XJ-8W.PDF file, pages 125 to 127 (8w-125 to 8w-127), for system operation see 94XJ-24.PDF pages 43 to 45 (there's compressor bolt torque info on this last page also :lol: - says 20ftlb). there's no electrical operation description in the 94FSM that i could find, but the 95 has it and that's how i figured out which pins need to be connected.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 10, 2012, 11:36:17 AM
so i'm looking at the 94 FSM, it's a bit different from what i can tell but the circuit names, PCM pins and wire colors are the same.

PCM Pin 27 a/c request signal from your on/off a/c switch blower motor switch (Circuit C91,  18ga Light blue wire) - goes to an unused connector left of the steering  column to pin/cavity 6, it's a 10 way connector (2 rows, 5 pins each) and it has 2 rounded corners at onr end where pin 1 and 6 are and 2 square corners at the other end where pins 5 and 10 are located

PCM Pin 28 a/c sense signal from your compressor clutch command wire (Circuit C20, 18ga Brown/Red Stripe wire) - goes to an unused 6 way connector (2 rows with 3 pins each) in the engine compartment to pin 5 on that connector, the connector looks almost round, it has both ends rounded and looking at the diagram i think i've seen it before on my wiring harness somewhere around the distributor but don't take my word for it although would make sense since it is close to the compressor mounting location.

it might be that i misread the 95 diagram or there is a typo in either the 95 or 94 FSM as everything is the same except for the pin cavity in the in-cab connector for circuit C91, however you can identify it easily by the wire color and size (maybe they changed the wire location between the 2 years, no big deal since you're doing a custom install anyway).

Reference: 94 FSM, 94XJ-8W.PDF file, pages 125 to 127 (8w-125 to 8w-127), for system operation see 94XJ-24.PDF pages 43 to 45 (there's compressor bolt torque info on this last page also :lol: - says 20ftlb). there's no electrical operation description in the 94FSM that i could find, but the 95 has it and that's how i figured out which pins need to be connected.
Yeah, that's exactly what I'm looking for, the Factory way.  I have a '92 FSM so at least it gives me an idea on what I'll need to do.  The stumbling is a little annoying at lights but is liveable.  A factory fix would be awesome though.

The fan controler I have

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flex-A-Lite-31165-Electric-Fan-Variable-Speed-Control-Module-w-Temperature-Prob-/221088336694?hash=item3379e44b36&item=221088336694&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

  Has a place on it so All you need to do is add one wire from the AC and the fan will run when the AC is on.
I've been through this a lot and that controller would probably burn up with the Lincoln MK8 fan on HS.  The PWM is one feature I really like about the DCC though.  Not to mention it's high-amp rating and other features.  The only part I hate is their whole marketing or lack of it as well as the LONG wait period and no Customer Service.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 10, 2012, 11:41:57 AM
Yeah, that's exactly what I'm looking for, the Factory way.  I have a '92 FSM so at least it gives me an idea on what I'll need to do.  The stumbling is a little annoying at lights but is liveable.  A factory fix would be awesome though.
I've been through this a lot and that controller would probably burn up with the Lincoln MK8 fan on HS.  The PWM is one feature I really like about the DCC though.  Not to mention it's high-amp rating and other features.  The only part I hate is their whole marketing or lack of it as well as the LONG wait period and no Customer Service.

do you have a 92 YJ? (somehow I recall yours was a 94)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 10, 2012, 11:46:55 AM
do you have a 92 YJ? (somehow I recall yours was a 94)

Yes, I have it in Analog form though.   :lol:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 10, 2012, 01:31:22 PM
OK, I'm looking at the FSM.  I see three wires that relate to the A/C.  Looks like the colors are the same as with the '92.

34 - A/C Clutch Relay 18BL/WT
28 - A/C Select 18LB/RD
27 - A/C Request 18LB/WT

From looking at it I concur with what you're saying.

So 27 needs to be hooked up to the Blower +12v and 28 needs to be connected to the +12v to the A/C Clutch.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 10, 2012, 01:36:13 PM
so it's yours a 92?

colors are different on that one by the looks of it, connectors i think are the same.

looks like you got the idea

EDIT: it's a 92, read your first post in this thread


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 10, 2012, 02:05:31 PM
I'm gonna have to think on it a while.  The fan controls are inside the evaporator and that's sealed up.  I don't remember if the blower was two wires or three.  If it's three then I'm good.  If it's two, then the amp load is going to change with the fan speed?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 10, 2012, 02:18:58 PM
I'm gonna have to think on it a while.  The fan controls are inside the evaporator and that's sealed up.  I don't remember if the blower was two wires or three.  If it's three then I'm good.  If it's two, then the amp load is going to change with the fan speed?

the voltage output for the blower motor will be 12v on all leads, however you can't connect them together (there are supposed to be 3 wires going to the motor for lo/med/hi speeds), but there is an integrated ON/OFF switch there as well so that will output +12v as soon as you start the blower and on any speed, if you look at the wiring diagrams the a/c request going to PCM pin 27 is fed from the ON/OFF contact on that switch, that wire goes to the thermostat in the evaporator housing, you need to tap in there before the thermostat. (page 127 in the 94 FSM)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 10, 2012, 02:22:39 PM
the voltage output for the blower motor will be 12v on all leads, however you can't connect them together (there are supposed to be 3 wires going to the motor for lo/med/hi speeds), but there is an integrated ON/OFF switch there as well so that will output +12v as soon as you start the blower and on any speed, if you look at the wiring diagrams the a/c request going to PCM pin 27 is fed from the ON/OFF contact on that switch, that wire goes to the thermostat in the evaporator housing, you need to tap in there before the thermostat. (page 127 in the 94 FSM)
Problem is I can't get inside the Evaporator.  That's where the switch is located.  I have a +12v, -12v and the Clutch +12v off the Evaporator.  I also have acces to the wires going to the blower.  That's it.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 10, 2012, 02:24:01 PM
Problem is I can't get inside the Evaporator.  That's where the switch is located.  I have a +12v, -12v and the Clutch +12v off the Evaporator.  I also have acces to the wires going to the blower.  That's it.

let me check the diagrams again and see if i can find it somewhere else, i doubt it but who knows.

EDIT: no luck, it's all in the housing, can you take the switch out without taking the housing apart?

other alternative would be to measure the 3 wires going to the motor to make sure they get full 12v (looks like it by the diagram but i don't know for sure) and if that's the case use 3 shottky diodes to isolate each lead, but to be honest that's overkill to a simple problem (although i wouldn't take the housing apart just for that either). I'd say try and test it first and put + on the a/c select wire and maybe that suffice, you don't need a/c request since your control portion is not using the PCM but it might be needed (unless you test you never know). If you put + on 28 and idle goes up then you're good, if it doesn't then add another + signal to 27 and see what happens. you could potentially connect both 27 and 28 to the compressor clutch control wire, i don't see why that wouldn't work though (and same argument here is that you don't need the PCM a/c control functions).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: grumpygy on August 10, 2012, 03:54:19 PM
Remember I went with the control I did cause I could not get any response on my order from DCC.  I finally did get a refund  But only cause I paid thru Paypal He never did get in contact with me.

http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,9917.0.html


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 10, 2012, 04:05:18 PM
let me check the diagrams again and see if i can find it somewhere else, i doubt it but who knows.

EDIT: no luck, it's all in the housing, can you take the switch out without taking the housing apart?

other alternative would be to measure the 3 wires going to the motor to make sure they get full 12v (looks like it by the diagram but i don't know for sure) and if that's the case use 3 shottky diodes to isolate each lead, but to be honest that's overkill to a simple problem (although i wouldn't take the housing apart just for that either). I'd say try and test it first and put + on the a/c select wire and maybe that suffice, you don't need a/c request since your control portion is not using the PCM but it might be needed (unless you test you never know). If you put + on 28 and idle goes up then you're good, if it doesn't then add another + signal to 27 and see what happens. you could potentially connect both 27 and 28 to the compressor clutch control wire, i don't see why that wouldn't work though (and same argument here is that you don't need the PCM a/c control functions).
Yeah, that's what I was wondering about.  The A/C is actually two separate and independent systems.  You can turn on the blower without turning on the compressor and vice verse.  I sent an email to Jon/Jeepair asking him about the switch.  I see two ways of getting it done if I have to have +12v on 27.  One is to cut an opening in the Evaporator housing then reseal it.  The other is to just wire +12v to it with a switch maybe.

Remember I went with the control I did cause I could not get any response on my order from DCC.  I finally did get a refund  But only cause I paid thru Paypal He never did get in contact with me.

http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,9917.0.html
Well, I've got time.  I have my fan setup and with the A/C, I just have it on 100%.  That's not really a problem since it's been over 100* this whole week.  When I'm not needing A/C for a while, I can switch back to my thermo switch. easily.  In other words, I don't need a solution right away.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 10, 2012, 04:38:14 PM
Yeah, that's what I was wondering about.  The A/C is actually two separate and independent systems.  You can turn on the blower without turning on the compressor and vice verse.  I sent an email to Jon/Jeepair asking him about the switch.  I see two ways of getting it done if I have to have +12v on 27.  One is to cut an opening in the Evaporator housing then reseal it.  The other is to just wire +12v to it with a switch maybe.

or just power both 27 and 28 from the clutch wire, remember that you don't need them connected at different times, the only reason that is with the stock setup is b/c the PCM controls the compressor clutch relay, no need for that with your setup.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 10, 2012, 04:46:32 PM
or just power both 27 and 28 from the clutch wire, remember that you don't need them connected at different times, the only reason that is with the stock setup is b/c the PCM controls the compressor clutch relay, no need for that with your setup.
Is that what triggers 34?

I think I'll probably end up doing it in stages.  Do 27 first, then see if it does it without anything else.  I would think that 28 is done so that the clutch only engages when the blower is on.  This seems to make the most sense as it tried to combine both circuits instead of having them work independently. Not that they uses sense when designing it.

I might pull this stuff out of my thread and do a A/C thread for the FAQ later.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Mozman68 on August 10, 2012, 06:13:26 PM
The AC12v wire in my Jeep is the blue wire with black stripe...I mentioned in my electric fan install and took a pic.

http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,2750.225.html


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 10, 2012, 06:56:56 PM
The AC12v wire in my Jeep is the blue wire with black stripe...I mentioned in my electric fan install and took a pic.

http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,2750.225.html
That's going to be another issue I'll be running into.  To have the fan turn on with just the clutch or to have it on when the blower is on.  If it's the later I'll run into the same problem with getting the signal to the PCM.  In which case I might just have to wire a new switch that sends +12v to the fan controller and the PCM, making another step to do before turning on the A/C.  Not that it's easy as it is with two separate controls.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 10, 2012, 07:50:47 PM
Is that what triggers 34?

I think I'll probably end up doing it in stages.  Do 27 first, then see if it does it without anything else.  I would think that 28 is done so that the clutch only engages when the blower is on.  This seems to make the most sense as it tried to combine both circuits instead of having them work independently. Not that they uses sense when designing it.

I might pull this stuff out of my thread and do a A/C thread for the FAQ later.

both 27 and 28 are inputs to the PCM, 34 is output from the PCM

when 27 is activated (the blower switch _sends_ +12v) the PCM "knows" you started the A/C. at that point it triggers output 34 to gives command by ground to the clutch relay. the clutch relay +12v command comes from the blower switch (same connection as the one that goes to pin 27) but it is in series with the thermostat in the evap unit and the pressure switch on the canister (so if either one trips the circuit is interrupted). When you start the a/c by turning the blower switch the relay will activate and the +12v output from that relay goes to both the compressor clutch and to pin 28. That tells me that pin 28 is the one that senses the compressor is in operation and increases the idle but there is a strong possibility that you would need 27 activated as well, however i don't see any reason in your case to not do both at the same time since your clutch relay command is outside the PCM. I think that the PCM is in the picture on dealer installed A/C so it can cut out the compressor in case the engine overheats, that's just my guess as i can't think of any other reason for it (is not doing anything other than providing command to the ground side of the clutch relay). You could implement that in your setup by linking pin 34 (wherever that goes to, probably one of the 2 connectors i mentioned before) to the ground side of the command terminals on the clutch relay and in that case you will need the 2 stage signal setup to the PCM (27 a/c on, 28 compressor on)

That's going to be another issue I'll be running into.  To have the fan turn on with just the clutch or to have it on when the blower is on.  If it's the later I'll run into the same problem with getting the signal to the PCM.  In which case I might just have to wire a new switch that sends +12v to the fan controller and the PCM, making another step to do before turning on the A/C.  Not that it's easy as it is with two separate controls.

well, you can do it on the clutch signal but i don't think any a/c shop would recommend that, but it would be way better than what you have today.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 10, 2012, 08:15:39 PM
both 27 and 28 are inputs to the PCM, 34 is output from the PCM

when 27 is activated (the blower switch _sends_ +12v) the PCM "knows" you started the A/C. at that point it triggers output 34 to gives command by ground to the clutch relay. the clutch relay +12v command comes from the blower switch (same connection as the one that goes to pin 27) but it is in series with the thermostat in the evap unit and the pressure switch on the canister (so if either one trips the circuit is interrupted). When you start the a/c by turning the blower switch the relay will activate and the +12v output from that relay goes to both the compressor clutch and to pin 28. That tells me that pin 28 is the one that senses the compressor is in operation and increases the idle but there is a strong possibility that you would need 27 activated as well, however i don't see any reason in your case to not do both at the same time since your clutch relay command is outside the PCM. I think that the PCM is in the picture on dealer installed A/C so it can cut out the compressor in case the engine overheats, that's just my guess as i can't think of any other reason for it (is not doing anything other than providing command to the ground side of the clutch relay). You could implement that in your setup by linking pin 34 (wherever that goes to, probably one of the 2 connectors i mentioned before) to the ground side of the command terminals on the clutch relay and in that case you will need the 2 stage signal setup to the PCM (27 a/c on, 28 compressor on)
That's what I figured.

well, you can do it on the clutch signal but i don't think any a/c shop would recommend that, but it would be way better than what you have today.
Well, I don't think it's any better per say.  Right now, the A/C is fine and if you were going to have one installed, that's how it would be done on a old Jeep.  I've just complicated it as I have an electric fan to deal with as well.  I'd like to have it more automated keying off the blower though.  I think that would be the best way to go about it.  2.5L's borrowed the 4.0L's A/C so they would have all the harnesses and plugs on them, making it a lot easier.  I don't think prospect owners would like having the RPM's drop at stops.

So it seems my best bet is to luck out and have a +12v on signal from the blower switch to the blower.  Otherwise I'm going to have to figure out how to get to it.  Option two would be to have a three-way switch for the fan, ON-OFF-A/C that is separate from the other AC Controls.  More convoluted but not by much more.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 10, 2012, 08:26:43 PM
 why not just try to connect both 27 and 28 to the clutch control wire, i don't see how it would make a difference in your case (and same with the fan). then next time you work on your dash to fix the leak you can pull that feed out as well and separate them.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 10, 2012, 08:44:30 PM
why not just try to connect both 27 and 28 to the clutch control wire, i don't see how it would make a difference in your case (and same with the fan). then next time you work on your dash to fix the leak you can pull that feed out as well and separate them.
To fix what leak?  All of the wires for the A/C unit are inside the evaporator housing except those going to the blower, IIRC.  There are a bunch of wires for the blower though.  I think 5 but three are to control the fan.  I may or may not be able to get to the back of the controls through a vent.  Haven't really looked into it.  Though just having the PCM connect to the clutch shoudln't be a problem, I don't think.

The other problem is getting the fan to stay on when the A/C is on.  Unless I can get a trigger of the A/C, I'll just wire up a three-way switch for the fan.  Not a big deal.  The DCC will run the fan at 50%.  I'll use the HS once that comes.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 10, 2012, 08:55:35 PM
To fix what leak? 

didn't you take the dash off twice to look for the water leak? (the one in your thread title "leaks a lot") you'd have to take out the evap unit to do that again, right?

The other problem is getting the fan to stay on when the A/C is on.  Unless I can get a trigger of the A/C, I'll just wire up a three-way switch for the fan.  Not a big deal.  The DCC will run the fan at 50%.  I'll use the HS once that comes.

just use the clutch wire for the fan control, it will be fine.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 14, 2012, 12:09:32 PM
Talked to Jeepair and he said I could access the blower switch from the nearest vent which is the one on the far right.  He didn't elaborate but I suspect that you can take the vent off and push the switch over to take it out.  If that's the case then it will be easy to get to the wires and add a wire for the A/C Request and A/C Fan controller.  Just need it not to be over 100*.

I also took some pictures of the plug for the A/C Select and A/C Clutch Relay.  It was easy to find.  it's located right next to the bulkhead bus.  It had a "cap" on it which I thought was interesting.  The cap was a female connector but no terminals.  Didn't have time to look for the A/C Request plug.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-99LCCy_j6tY/UFJ4eHZ2ojI/AAAAAAAAlNU/NZAdahucQr0/s800/IMG_1498.jpg)(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-40XM5doTPR4/UFJ4eDK6DvI/AAAAAAAAlNU/KpxlToUNqEE/s800/IMG_1499.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 14, 2012, 12:14:25 PM
you could wire it as stock thru the PCM, the only additional wire for that would be 34 for the ground on the command side of the clutch relay (don't know much about the Jeepair kit but I assume it has a relay for the clutch). only problem is that 34 i think it's wired directly to the PDC for the clutch relay, you could tap into it. I assume the PCM is just going to protect the engine in case of overheating.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 14, 2012, 12:24:08 PM
you could wire it as stock thru the PCM, the only additional wire for that would be 34 for the ground on the command side of the clutch relay (don't know much about the Jeepair kit but I assume it has a relay for the clutch). only problem is that 34 i think it's wired directly to the PDC for the clutch relay, you could tap into it. I assume the PCM is just going to protect the engine in case of overheating.
I'm not going to bother wiring the clutch into the PCM.  There's no reason to do that other then to do it.  The Jeepair setup is straight forward and clean.  I just want the idle-up feature so the engine's not stumbling at stops.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 14, 2012, 12:45:54 PM
somehow i thought the clutch relay is in the PDC (at least for '95 it is). also the connector i remember seeing it on the distributor side, but that's just from memory, they changed the harness on the later years though, the colors are different on the wires too.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 14, 2012, 12:52:01 PM
somehow i thought the clutch relay is in the PDC (at least for '95 it is). also the connector i remember seeing it on the distributor side, but that's just from memory, they changed the harness on the later years though, the colors are different on the wires too.
The factory clutch relay is in the PDC but I'm not using it.  The Jeepair setup was 3 wires and dead simple.  Easy to trouble shoot as well.  I'd rather have everything as simple as possible and easy to get to.  In the FSM, it states the connector is on the right side of the engine.  I haven't looked at the '94 or '95.  There is one two-wire connector on the left side next to the battery box but I'm not sure what that is for.  I think it's the underhood light.  I have nothing near the distributor.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 14, 2012, 01:08:05 PM
the one in the pic matches the size and wire color you listed for pin 28 (a/c select) for your year so i'm pretty sure you got it right, the other one is supposed to be by the steering column on the left side according to the '94 FSM.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 15, 2012, 04:57:50 PM
Took some pictures and did some poking around.  Looks fairly easy.  The lead I'm looking for is the one that triggers the thermostat.  Now that I'm looking at it, I think it's that black wire nearest the camera on top.  Interesting that there are no relays.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BAPXaCoGJgE/UFJ4eAnkw0I/AAAAAAAAlNU/SfRECgMPtpM/s800/IMG_1519.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UUaBT7e9THk/UFJ4eJDdP1I/AAAAAAAAlNU/IpTQbEjzriQ/s800/IMG_1521.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 15, 2012, 08:24:01 PM
looks like there's an inspection cover there as well (unless it's for something else) - oddly enough it's on the inside so you can't take it off. Or is it just backing for the ashtray bolts?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 15, 2012, 08:36:13 PM
looks like there's an inspection cover there as well (unless it's for something else) - oddly enough it's on the inside so you can't take it off. Or is it just backing for the ashtray bolts?
It's the backing plate for the ash tray.  I'm going to put a mirror in there to see where the wires go.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 16, 2012, 01:01:06 AM
It's the backing plate for the ash tray.  I'm going to put a mirror in there to see where the wires go.

can you reach on the terminal with the multimeter probe? you need to find the wire that is 0v when the switch is off and that gives +12v on all speeds. Or maybe you can take the nut off the switch and pull it out thru the vent (you'd need to tap into it so that might be easier to do that way).

Interesting that there are no relays.

so how do you power this thing? i assume you have a switched 12v that is on when the key is in the run position, do you also have a permanent 12v connection as well or not? if you don't then there's no relay.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 16, 2012, 03:13:42 PM
can you reach on the terminal with the multimeter probe? you need to find the wire that is 0v when the switch is off and that gives +12v on all speeds. Or maybe you can take the nut off the switch and pull it out thru the vent (you'd need to tap into it so that might be easier to do that way).
It's easier then that.  +12v is required at the thermostat to turn on the clutch.  It turns on when the blower is on and off when the blower is off.

so how do you power this thing? i assume you have a switched 12v that is on when the key is in the run position, do you also have a permanent 12v connection as well or not? if you don't then there's no relay.
Three wires.  One +12V Key, -12V Ground and a +12v that goes to the clutch.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UUaBT7e9THk/UFJ4eJDdP1I/AAAAAAAAlNU/IpTQbEjzriQ/s800/IMG_1521.jpg)

As I suspected the wire nearest to the opening is going to the thermostat.  You can tell it doesn't follow the rest of the wires that go to the blower motor.  That has to be +12v as it turns on the A/C Clutch.  So I just need to get some larger connectors and make a Y cable to splice in there.  Shouldn't be too hard as I can get to the wire without removing anything.  I still haven't looked for the A/C Request connector yet.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 23, 2012, 02:26:42 PM
Well, I took out my OBA so I could take come measurements.  It looks like the main bracket bent a bit at the weld over time.  I bent it back but it seems to flex a lot more then I remember.  Not sure if that will matter once the upper made and installed.

*edit;  Talked to Brad and he said it's probably normal.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 29, 2012, 08:23:23 PM
Well crap!  That wiggle just jumped up several slots.  Of course this happens right after I get the top bracket solved. (thanks Sharp for the offer)  Funny that it happens after I get the AC set up.  I think it was fatigued before I even installed it this second time.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xXlJa3u_A2s/UFJ4eGIVrqI/AAAAAAAAlNU/f2Ok4IqWxbE/s800/IMG_1619.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-AVqnuMwv9fE/UFJ4eGMxKpI/AAAAAAAAlNU/v1dLpY60lgw/s800/IMG_1621.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 29, 2012, 08:49:49 PM
here's a new offer :D
ship it over and i'll fix it so it won't ever break again, i'll tig the frig out of it like it was never tigged before :lol:, i'll make the top bracket too while i'm at it, just need the thickness of the thru holes in the compressor close to the valve cover (i would have all other dims with the bracket).
bit overkill for you to send it over not to mention the cost of shipping but it's free and you'd still have to pay someone to weld it, if you want i'd be glad to help.

EDIT: if you decide to take me up on the offer run a marker around the bottom of the compressor on the bracket so i know how much room i have for gussets (which this thing should have had to begin with).

EDIT2: it's the vibrations and the resulting resonance that makes it crack, my initial supercharger mount cracked just being bolted up there on its own without the s/c, whatever end is free and not held solid will oscillate with the rpm until it destroys itself (see Tacoma Narrows Bridge collapse, i might have mentioned this before, sorry if i sound like a broken record).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 29, 2012, 09:17:46 PM
here's a new offer :D
ship it over and i'll fix it so it won't ever break again, i'll tig the frig out of it like it was never tigged before :lol:, i'll make the top bracket too while i'm at it, just need the thickness of the thru holes in the compressor close to the valve cover (i would have all other dims with the bracket).
bit overkill for you to send it over not to mention the cost of shipping but it's free and you'd still have to pay someone to weld it, if you want i'd be glad to help.

EDIT: if you decide to take me up on the offer run a marker around the bottom of the compressor on the bracket so i know how much room i have for gussets (which this thing should have had to begin with).

EDIT2: it's the vibrations and the resulting resonance that makes it crack, my initial supercharger mount cracked just being bolted up there on its own without the s/c, whatever end is free and not held solid will oscillate with the rpm until it destroys itself (see Tacoma Narrows Bridge collapse, i might have mentioned this before, sorry if i sound like a broken record).
Thanks for the offer.  I actually got the top bracket done.  I'm asking around to see if I can get the main bracket welded back together.  I'll see how that pans out.

The main bracket was probably broken when I removed it from my Jeep back in '98.  The york is heavy and that probably didn't help with the vibrations and no top bracket.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 29, 2012, 09:44:40 PM
i suggest a few gussets on top and bottom (center and ends going as high/long as you can).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 30, 2012, 04:19:45 PM
Well, I pulled the bezel off the dash in hopes of finding the connector for the AC harness.  Well, I didn't find the 2x5 but I did find the 2x3  I'm guessing the 2x5 is much lower on the column.  I found the 2x3 behind the speedo and tach.  So it looks like all I need to do is run a Y harness from the blower to pin A on the connector which turned into pin 6 on the lower connector and eventually 27 A/C Request on the PCM.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4z1Ynystcgg/UFJ4eEpGRAI/AAAAAAAAlNU/1OMJosPp-QA/s800/Pages-from-94XJ_08W---Wirin.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zw80jqaRnGg/UFJ4eNWt7xI/AAAAAAAAlNU/4SpJPnRrQlI/s800/IMG_1623.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-fnpBzlIDLE0/UFJ4eJeOkqI/AAAAAAAAlNU/h2a6HAq2Loo/s800/IMG_1626.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 30, 2012, 04:24:58 PM
sounds right. but god, i would have just splice into the harness somewhere in the engine bay rather than taking all that stuff off, you have way more patience thank most


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 30, 2012, 04:48:15 PM
sounds right. but god, i would have just splice into the harness somewhere in the engine bay rather than taking all that stuff off, you have way more patience thank most
Oh, it's really easy taking off the driver side.  I've taken it apart so many times, it's pretty easy and fast.  You don't have to take all the pieces off to it out.  6 screws for the two main bezel parts then 4 more for the gauge cluster.  You can to carefully flex the tabs for the light switch panel but that's it.  Pull the bus plug and the gauges are out.  I'm also trying to keep the wiring clean.  I hate messy wiring.  At one time, I almost became an E Tech so I've picked up my anal trates from there.

IIRC, the 2x3 connector is normally clipped into that hole below the tach.  I've replaced the whole instrument panel, which is why it's all painted and not an OE color so I never bothered to clip it back in.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 30, 2012, 04:52:46 PM
yeah, it's good to keep it clean, you approach is for sure the right way to do it.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on August 30, 2012, 05:15:46 PM
yeah, it's good to keep it clean, you approach is for sure the right way to do it.
Just takes twice as long but then again, I don't want to have to worry about fires.   :lol:

This has been pretty easy though.  The wires are hidden but accessible without too much hunting.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on August 30, 2012, 05:35:13 PM
Just takes twice as long but then again, I don't want to have to worry about fires.   :lol:

This has been pretty easy though.  The wires are hidden but accessible without too much hunting.

i'd be interested in hearing what the high idle result is without the fan, blower and compressor running to have an idea what and if its higher than the p/s sense - can you do such a test when you're done with the wiring? (i guess by unplugging those 3)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on September 01, 2012, 10:58:47 PM
Picked up some diodes.  It was a bit of a pain to find some.  They're either really small or really big.  I ended up getting some NTE5806's.  R-600V PRV 3A industrial rectifier axial lead.  I don't think it really matters what I use since it's low amp and 12v and they're used as a one way path.  While I was looking I did find some 70A relays which were $8 instead of $25.  I was tempted but then I'd have to get some larger terminals for the power side and I don't really want to screw with that.

Oh and I got my OBA replacement bracket but need to send out my other OBA bracket to get fixed.

Also, need to install the new 200a alternator and get rid of the 75a stocker.  I also need to make a new high-amp cable to the battery.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on September 04, 2012, 08:33:56 PM
Got it installed.  Was a bit more difficult since the AC compressor pins the Alternator harness down low.  I still need to add a #4 wire and a CB later.  Interesting enough, there is less stumble when the fan kicks in.  Nice to have a beefy alternator again.

I removed my OBA bracket and will be sending that out to get fixed later this week.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lCg_qTaeKS8/UFJ4eEWNd1I/AAAAAAAAlNU/up2ZP1IkjXs/s800/IMG_1660.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SDsnVvh822g/UFJ4eG4MZ1I/AAAAAAAAlNU/9Oj-jwpOPns/s800/IMG_1661.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on September 11, 2012, 05:13:29 PM
Here's just a minor update.  In short, I added 2 diodes to the fan controller I had made so I could run the fan when the A/C clutch is activated. http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,10745.0.html

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MOdbsIUkYB0/UFJ4ePVxGXI/AAAAAAAAlNU/-YUDy5FKgzw/s800/IMG_1697.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N64VXp_zVzo/UFJ4eFJYrJI/AAAAAAAAlNU/5wyEazw1AwQ/s800/IMG_1698.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on September 18, 2012, 05:06:14 PM
Getting a little closer.  I ended up pulling the terminal from the connector and just soldering the A/C Blower to the A/C Request.  Because there is a long tab, I can remove the wire and return the terminal into the connector housing easily if I need to.   I did some investigating and noticed that the A/C Relay socket has no terminals in it so there is no wiring in there.  That means I'm going to have to run a wire from the A/C Clutch all the way to the connector above the PCM under the brake booster.  I'm also going to have to figure out how I'm going to connect the two.  There is a connector with terminals and the male side of the plug BUT I'm not sure what kind of terminals it takes.  They're definitely pin style though.  I'm trying to to cut any of the OEM connectors off even though I'll probably not need them, ever.  Oh and the tab off the Blower Switch was in fact a standard .25".

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4h3tjp0fmxk/UFkJ-4JV5YI/AAAAAAAAmHE/KPWvsndYGig/s800/IMG_1714.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bDWWK83udqw/UFkKAjSTB0I/AAAAAAAAmHE/xwiyc2yoBhs/s800/IMG_1719.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-16R6d7hQgWE/UFkKA-mBocI/AAAAAAAAmHE/Svj3HC3XxMQ/s800/IMG_1720.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kh3PUQBu3xk/UFkKBC7t1_I/AAAAAAAAmHE/REL4CxUsx4Q/s800/IMG_1724.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tGi37Xmv2Nw/UFkKDM_5DDI/AAAAAAAAmHE/faQI02O6iTw/s800/IMG_1725.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-IeforZvw5Dc/UFkKDBHuzaI/AAAAAAAAmHE/9ncRe7D0QC8/s800/IMG_1726.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on September 18, 2012, 06:15:58 PM
that looks like 16ga metripack or weatherpack, but can't tell you for sure. you could scavange some at the j/y and use a pin removal tool to try and take them out without destroying the pins. is the male side a blank or you can add a wire and pin in there? (looks like you can but can't tell if the plugs are glued or just pressed, probably the latter)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on September 18, 2012, 06:29:17 PM
that looks like 16ga metripack or weatherpack, but can't tell you for sure. you could scavange some at the j/y and use a pin removal tool to try and take them out without destroying the pins. is the male side a blank or you can add a wire and pin in there? (looks like you can but can't tell if the plugs are glued or just pressed, probably the latter)
I think it's just pressed into the blank.  You can pull the black pins out and gain access to the holes.  I doubt I'll find one in a JY as they're going to have to have A/C which is a rare on an already rare vehicle to find at the JY.  I think I might just press a 16awg wire through and see if it tin the end and get it to stick in there.  Otherwise I might be able to find a terminal at the electronic store.  Worse case would be to cut it and add a QD connector.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on September 18, 2012, 06:51:31 PM
i didn't mean the same connector, just salvage a pin off a connector of the same type (not same shape/pin count). Strip about 1/8'' from the existing wire attached to the pin and solder yours on it, then push it in to the blank you have.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on September 19, 2012, 03:37:04 PM
Decided to go a different route.  Instead of making a splice at the high-pressure switch like I did before and run it back to the firewall I cut the clutch lead as it leaves the evaporator housing.  Then I put a QD on it and ran a short lead to the same connector that I had soldered the A/C Request to before.  The wire next to it is the A/C Select.  This allowed me to keep the wires to a minimum and not have to cut any OE connectors.

This is a definite mod if you do install aftermarket A/C.  The problem is when you're in neutral slowing to a stop and the A/C kicks in.  The PCM isn't able to compensate and the RPM's drop to around 500 RPM and sits there till the compressor turns off.  It's also annoying to have the rough idle which is what breaks stuff over time.

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BrCA2uxudgo/UFpF_H5js7I/AAAAAAAAmH4/1QfPzQ5pZbE/s800/IMG_1728.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2aLkA1NIAfw/UFpGAoSzjSI/AAAAAAAAmH4/YFNAHwBsvoA/s800/IMG_1731.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: neale_rs on September 19, 2012, 03:59:22 PM
Could you run the A/C on signal to the power steering pressure switch output in some way to make sure RPMs go up when the A/C comes on?



Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on September 19, 2012, 04:05:59 PM
Could you run the A/C on signal to the power steering pressure switch output in some way to make sure RPMs go up when the A/C comes on?


I guess you could but I'm not sure why you'd want to run wires all the way to the PS switch when everything is right behind your gauges.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: neale_rs on September 19, 2012, 04:15:05 PM
The connection could go anywhere that's convenient but the general idea seems like it could solve the low idle problem.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on September 19, 2012, 04:21:03 PM
The connection could go anywhere that's convenient but the general idea seems like it could solve the low idle problem.
For running A/C it's not worth it.  The distance from the A/C controls to the A/C connector is probably less the 8".  If you just wanted an up idle then you could run a +12v from a dash switch to the A/C Request and A/C Select easily as well.  No splicing if you do what I did.  I have a hand throttle for that though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on September 20, 2012, 12:25:17 AM
Could you run the A/C on signal to the power steering pressure switch output in some way to make sure RPMs go up when the A/C comes on?



it's backwards, you need a ground for the p/s switch and the clutch gives you a +12v, you can make it work with a relay (that was one of my initial suggestions). the other thing is that i think the p/s is not increasing the idle as much as the a/c select input, so that's another matter to consider the proper input to the pcm. And what about when you have the a/c on and the steering wheel turned all the way, i assume the 2 would add up and both increase the idle, otherwise if you just use the p/s switch you'd end up with rpm going low again in that scenario.

Decided to go a different route.  Instead of making a splice at the high-pressure switch like I did before and run it back to the firewall I cut the clutch lead as it leaves the evaporator housing.  Then I put a QD on it and ran a short lead to the same connector that I had soldered the A/C Request to before.  The wire next to it is the A/C Select.  This allowed me to keep the wires to a minimum and not have to cut any OE connectors.

This is a definite mod if you do install aftermarket A/C.  The problem is when you're in neutral slowing to a stop and the A/C kicks in.  The PCM isn't able to compensate and the RPM's drop to around 500 RPM and sits there till the compressor turns off.  It's also annoying to have the rough idle which is what breaks stuff over time.

did you tested it yet? where's the idle now?


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: neale_rs on September 20, 2012, 09:58:14 AM
There is often a point where it takes too much effort to get the last possible benefit so I don't know if its worth it, but it seems there is still that idle detail that keeps it from being like a completely stock A/C system like in many regular cars.    Shouldn't the vendor have a standard solution for all these things?



Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on September 20, 2012, 10:16:26 AM
the idle is controlled by the pcm, the YJ has the inputs/outputs provisioned for a dealer installed unit, if it's aftermarket and not 100% direct fit then you'll have to connect the request/select pins with a custom wiring job (and it is usually the case when you buy something equivalent but not identical to save money).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on September 20, 2012, 03:38:00 PM
did you tested it yet? where's the idle now?
Well yesterday I thought I got it setup but it didn't work.  I spent a few hours today going over it and found my problem   It wasn't with the wiring I had just added but rather that plug in the engine compartment next to the PCM.  I had to make a jumped since that plug is for one of the pressure sensors which I don't have hooked up there.  So after I bent some solid wire it worked!

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vAVoGbr3P1Q/UFuVGJ3FJoI/AAAAAAAAmIs/MAUJ4KDg3DA/s800/IMG_1732.jpg)

I'm going to have to watch it but it seems to rev up 1100 RPM then settle below 1000RPM when it gets the A/C clutch signal (compressor disconnected).  With the drag of the A/C Compressor it falls below but I didn't see how far.  I'll get a chance to do that later today when I drive it into town.  No rough idle when the engine is idling and the compressor kicks in though.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AmMAvijvSkc/UFuVGJUpQuI/AAAAAAAAmIs/KOWLV4zNQ_Y/s800/IMG_1733.jpg)

The reason the AC kit doesn't have provisions is for liability I think.  The kit isn't hard to install but it isn't easy either.  If you've done it before, then that's a HUGE advantage.  Even though they say the unit is drop-in, it's not 100%.  You've got a lot of things to consider and can overlook.  I wasted a day of testing at the A/C Shop with my leaking hose.  That's 10AM to 6PM.  Then another hour the next day when I got it fixed.  Because there's no way to add an idle A/C Solenoid, it's all done with the PCM which complicates things.  Really, you could drive around without it like I have done for a few months but it's annoying.  I don't blame the vendor at all for not having a solution.  Unless you know what you're doing you can easily fry something expensive.  The vendor would probably end up cutting the connector off and installing a new one since it's probably a lot easier then trying to source some hard to find specialized connector.  You'd also need to add the jumper could easily be screwed up if you don't pay attention to the wires.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: neale_rs on September 20, 2012, 04:12:52 PM
Great job with the install. I think the last details were pretty complicated overall.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on September 20, 2012, 04:16:26 PM
Great job with the install. I think the last details were pretty complicated overall.
It's not that hard really but you want to double check everything.  It's also good to have someone else double check as well which Sharp was a great help with.  I haven't seen anyone else do this which makes me wonder if they just live with the rough idle.

When I get some free time I'll pull this all together and do a writeup for the FAQ.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on September 20, 2012, 04:38:26 PM
i wonder if you got them wired backwards (select and request that is) as i think the idle should not go up when the compressor is off but only when it kicks in

EDIT: or maybe it has 2 levels, one for request and another for select (or backwards, i'm always getting them mixed up).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on September 20, 2012, 04:54:36 PM
i wonder if you got them wired backwards (select and request that is) as i think the idle should not go up when the compressor is off but only when it kicks in

EDIT: or maybe it has 2 levels, one for request and another for select (or backwards, i'm always getting them mixed up).
Nope, I got it right.  The reason I mentioned that was you wanted to know what the RPM was with the compressor not bringing the idle down.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on September 20, 2012, 05:17:03 PM
Nope, I got it right.  The reason I mentioned that was you wanted to know what the RPM was with the compressor not bringing the idle down.

got it, cool - good to know. It's higher than the P/S idle select (did that manually and it doesn't go that high). There's another place (pin) on the PCM that has high idle select and was only available on the police vehicles and it is mentioned as only on the 4.0L models and it goes to 1000rpm if i remember correctly, i wonder if that's available on the 2.5PCM, could be an alternative to the 2 connections for a/c.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on September 20, 2012, 06:01:06 PM
I need to watch it and keep track of how it works.  The idle can still drop low and shutter but it doesn't seem to drop as low and not all the time.  The worse was when coasting to a stop and the compressor kicks in.  I notice the idle does definitely bump up instead of dropping low.  I think there are some situations where it still get caught out.  Most likely it's because there's no speed signal so it's more reserved.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on April 03, 2013, 02:53:31 PM
Ugh, my A/C isn't working!  I think there was a leak and now there's not enough pressure to trigger the LP switch.  I bypassed it and it's still now cold.  So I'm thinking it's more likely I have a leak rather then a bad switch.  I had an issue with the HP line coming from the compressor early on but I though I fixed it.  The system passed the vacuum and pressure test.  I've got a A/C pressure gauge in a box somewhere.  I'm wondering if it's empty or if it's just low.  If it's empty then I can cut the old fitting off and replace it.  What a PITA.  I thought I was done with it.

Oh and my door seal still leaks.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: dwtaylorpdx on April 04, 2013, 10:54:50 PM
Check the driver side of the condenser right by the power steering box fittings,
mine would hit there when wheeling and eventually cracked the tube.. Had it soldered at a local AC shop.

Rotated the power steering pump hose to miss..

Dave


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on April 04, 2013, 11:15:18 PM
I'm pretty sure it's the HP hose at where is comes off the compressor.   That's where it originally leaked from but I fixed it.  It passed both the vacuum test and the pressure test.  It seems to be the only place I can see some oil residue.  All the other connectors look OK and feel dry from my initial inspection.  I'll have to do a more in depth inspection so I'll check there as well.

I think I'll probably just cut the fitting off and replace it.  It's a $5 part IIRC.  What a PITA though.  I'll do a low pressure test and see if there is anything R-134a in the system at all.  I'm thinking not since when I bypassed the switch I got no cold air.  Not even the pshhhh sound from the expansion valve.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: Jeffy on April 22, 2013, 08:50:33 PM
Well, it looks like the leaking streak continues.  The A/C is empty and not working.  What a PITA.   I decided to just bite teh bullet and buy a vaccum pump and manifold/gauge set and do it myself.  I consulted with a few friends who have done it and it's fairly straight forward.  I'm going to run the vacuum test overnight to see if it leaks.  15-30 minutes is way too short to get an actual picture of what's happening.  It only takes 2 cans (1.75lbs) of R134a so that's about $20 worth.  Even if I have to chase another leak down, it's still cheaper then $150 to get it "tested" at the mechanic.  So I'm going that route.  I figure I can fix a few other vehicles that have non-OP A/C while I'm at it.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leaks-A-Lot (was: Joop)
Post by: sharpxmen on April 22, 2013, 09:12:12 PM
sounds like you can put together a new "how-to" thread in the FAQ  ;)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on April 22, 2013, 09:39:35 PM
sounds like you can put together a new "how-to" thread in the FAQ  ;)
I could dedicate a whole site to my Jeep.  :whistle:

I have to buy about $250 worth of new tools...  :hump:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on June 04, 2013, 10:08:23 AM
OK, so I installed A/C in the Jeep last year and I got a whole 2 months of use out of it before winter came. Now it's not working. Wasted money on getting it tested and charged ($120). They say it should be vacuum checked for a minimum of 45 minutes. (At most it was tested for 30 minues). I saw a 5 Hg drop after a few hours. There was still 20 psi still in the system before evac. it out. What a PITA. Hopefully, I can fix the leak. Ended up buying a vacuum pump and manifold to test and refill it myself. ($150 and 6 12oz cans for $40)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m5AlPdrBT0o/Ua1T1auZ0BI/AAAAAAAAtGk/za6llSXyu2k/w884-h663-no/IMG_3451.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oJGXvqwXQ7U/Ua1T01W8HfI/AAAAAAAAtGQ/IijJhY1OQ7M/w884-h663-no/IMG_3450.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--mIpy9f77pQ/Ua1T1uGV6PI/AAAAAAAAtGg/4_AXFix4iYA/w884-h663-no/IMG_3453.JPG)
After 20 hours...  :brick:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rNpDKbbcMSo/Ua4eSQzXRgI/AAAAAAAAtIE/g1pxj2fH6cQ/s884/IMG_3463.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: neale_rs on June 04, 2013, 11:17:00 AM
My Neon had  a leak recently and the shop detected it by noticing an oily residue near where some o-rings are used to seal.  They replaced the o-rings and problem solved.  Maybe you will see some oily residue somewhere.



Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on June 04, 2013, 11:49:44 AM
My Neon had  a leak recently and the shop detected it by noticing an oily residue near where some o-rings are used to seal.  They replaced the o-rings and problem solved.  Maybe you will see some oily residue somewhere.


Yeah, that's what you normally look for.  I'm pretty certain where it's leaking.  It was a problem area from the beginning.  There was some oil residue at the connector for the hose.  I've got to re-crimp it and see if it will hold.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on June 04, 2013, 02:35:47 PM
Re-crimped the hose and am in the process of retesting.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--E1nwCBg3HQ/Ua5cX0zZlOI/AAAAAAAAtIo/dvh9acIfZgc/s844/IMG_3467.JPG)

And one hour later;

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gVjJ6Wzdm24/Ua5cZWTxenI/AAAAAAAAtI8/PI1LMCsS38E/s844/IMG_3469.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on June 04, 2013, 08:00:47 PM
After 5 hours...

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dnetSNm3lGY/Ua6pqEDmXMI/AAAAAAAAtJk/paO7oSDJWgI/s640/IMG_3470.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: jfrabat on June 05, 2013, 06:57:09 AM
Seems to be holding up....


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: neale_rs on June 05, 2013, 08:16:08 AM
Looks like it may be solved....


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on June 05, 2013, 01:13:14 PM
Ok, it's been 24 hrs.  Seems to have dropped less then 1 in/hg in that time.  From what I read a good system will hold for 30 minutes.  Anyone know?

Before:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_qoEPevVbLY/Ua5cX_cu2LI/AAAAAAAAtI0/C7RirfuOUk8/w810-h608-no/IMG_3468.JPG)

After 24hrs:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Xx33DbRodlI/Ua-Y4x_joiI/AAAAAAAAtJ0/9ZQ6UTRcvXw/w810-h608-no/IMG_3475.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: sharpxmen on June 05, 2013, 01:55:46 PM
could be ambient temperature related (i hope). Leave it longer and see what the result is (if it keeps losing vac or would go up/down) - i think if it loses it will eventually leak out, but seems to be very minimal.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on June 05, 2013, 02:09:38 PM
could be ambient temperature related (i hope). Leave it longer and see what the result is (if it keeps losing vac or would go up/down) - i think if it loses it will eventually leak out, but seems to be very minimal.
It's not going up and down, just down.  I think I may have found the problem area, the manifold hose wasn't tight and would leak if I moved the gauges.  In any case 24hrs is supposed to be pretty extreme.  No shop would it it more then an hour.  More like 30-45 minutes.

I've started vacuuming it for an hour to get the moisture out now.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on June 06, 2013, 02:40:49 PM
Ok, retested and it's coming up on 24hrs.

Before:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zkPZ3fQR6Fw/UbDaO5UQLAI/AAAAAAAAtKQ/M4_I838Xy0w/w884-h663-no/IMG_3482.JPG)

After:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mcQL5zkgnI4/UbDaQCtOU_I/AAAAAAAAtKo/pTV8yBOQi0c/w884-h663-no/IMG_3486.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: neale_rs on June 06, 2013, 03:08:52 PM
Looks like you fixed it!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: sharpxmen on June 06, 2013, 04:28:03 PM
seems to be right on the money  :thumb:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on June 06, 2013, 05:48:22 PM
Vacuumed it for an hour again just to make sure.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9Zy7xkcccXA/UbEsV9uWdTI/AAAAAAAAtLU/uSQxFZX-0xs/w497-h663-no/IMG_3491.JPG)

Here's what went in.  Pure R134a from DuPont.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DJolqKaemS0/UbEsWkAxqII/AAAAAAAAtLo/Ok9LCAVf850/w808-h606-no/IMG_3493.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LWKYA_UuXok/UbEsW7-z_CI/AAAAAAAAtLs/cR6qNZ7kBFM/w808-h606-no/IMG_3497.JPG)

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1xNPcqa5wHI/UbEsW6LL2NI/AAAAAAAAtLw/DQ47D4yrGUY/w497-h663-no/IMG_3498.JPG)(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ty7VEkc8Kqw/UbEsXrJR1QI/AAAAAAAAtMI/Nq7h10K4RzA/w497-h663-no/IMG_3499.JPG)

Once both cans were in and the tools put away it settles at 39*.  It was 80* outside.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nBzwAoth-lc/UbEsYZEJzHI/AAAAAAAAtMY/5YQj2k--_Ck/w808-h606-no/IMG_3502.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: aw12345 on June 24, 2013, 12:40:39 PM
Vacuum testing can test good and it will still leak under pressure, my advice would be to add dye and test it with a black light after it leaks down some. Is the easiest and best method to find ac leaks. Most sniffers don't work very well with R134A.
Main reason for the vacuum pump is to boil moisture out of the system. It does a somewhat reasonable test for leak testing. As faar as it leaks down you know there is a leak. By capping areas and retesting you can zero in on the location. Still dye is the way to go, Vato zone sells relatively cheap testing kits


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on July 11, 2013, 10:16:17 PM
Vacuum testing can test good and it will still leak under pressure, my advice would be to add dye and test it with a black light after it leaks down some. Is the easiest and best method to find ac leaks. Most sniffers don't work very well with R134A.
Main reason for the vacuum pump is to boil moisture out of the system. It does a somewhat reasonable test for leak testing. As faar as it leaks down you know there is a leak. By capping areas and retesting you can zero in on the location. Still dye is the way to go, Vato zone sells relatively cheap testing kits
Well, I fixed one lead then it was OK till it leaked elsewhere and blew out.   :lol:  I've got to redo all of the fittings to make sure they're all crimped well enough.  This leak was on the low-pressure side at the evaporator.  Oh well, I was prepared for this.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: sharpxmen on July 13, 2013, 04:43:24 PM
i'm installing the windshield frame seal - how the hell you got the frame back in place, it is 5'' away from the bars, not to mention the seal being somewhat different than the stock one, holes were way off  :rant:

going to try and pull it with a ratchet strap, wish me luck


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on July 13, 2013, 07:32:18 PM
I used ratchet straps to pull the windshield back.  Make sure you unbolt the spreader bar from the main tube before using the small bolts.  Otherwise you'll probably strip the threads.  I'd go ahead and replace the torx with Allen heads while you're at it.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: sharpxmen on July 13, 2013, 09:04:49 PM
I used ratchet straps to pull the windshield back.  Make sure you unbolt the spreader bar from the main tube before using the small bolts.  Otherwise you'll probably strip the threads.  I'd go ahead and replace the torx with Allen heads while you're at it.

i got it done just like you describe, had to redo one side as the frame was off from the door by 1/2'' but eventually came in place. The lip on this new seal is curved as opposed to the old one which was flat, dunno if i got a bad one or this is how is supposed to be.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on July 26, 2013, 09:37:43 PM
So here's an update.  I reinstalled my OBA.  I removed it when I was installing teh A/C Compressor because there were cracks in the brackets.  I had them fixed and a new top strap made since I never owned a Kilby kit for A/C.  I finally got t back together.  I've yanked my lines to my tank though.  All of the rubber hose had dry-rot.  So I'll do without till I can get some brass line and make new lines to the compressor.  I'll need to get a flare tool for that though.  :thumb:

Other problems.  I got my new hoses for my A/C but they screwed up and sent me two of one hose.  I don't need a 3ft hose to span a 1 ft distance.  So I'll have to get them to fix that.  Kinda sad but, I can never seem to get anything right the first time with them.  :brick:

I also noticed an exhaust leak at the rear of the manifold.  Luckily it was jsut a loose bolt and not a missing one.  For some reason my Jeep seems to loosen the manifold bolts rather then snap them off which is good.  THe engien is so quiet now.   :lol:

Still waiting on the SYE.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on July 30, 2013, 05:56:04 PM
Well, Jeepair sent me a new hose and I got it on Monday.  Notified them on Saturday so that's pretty fast.  NOW I have a new issue.  Looks like the hoses they sent me were for a 4.0L.  I would have thought that the hose between the evaporator and the compressor would be 4.0L length (longest distance) and the line between the condenser and the compressor would be a 2.5L (longest distance).  Well it turns out that second hose is 2-4 inches too short and won't reach even with some stretching.

Luckily, I have all of the other hoses installed and can install the last hose without having to remove my radiator.

Hopefully someday I'll have everything sorted that should have been sorted 3 years ago.  What a PITA.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LFovb3jY9ic/UfhgAiZV75I/AAAAAAAAtuU/AFPyIK-JCzY/w496-h661-no/IMG_3782.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: neale_rs on July 30, 2013, 07:27:26 PM
Eventually it will work out.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on July 31, 2013, 01:06:48 PM
On the plus side, this arrived.  I'm going to hold off installing it till I can get the AC sorted.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-NWcf4NYkDXk/UfltwPVsKEI/AAAAAAAAtv0/OmMH4Pn-vY4/w881-h661-no/IMG_3787.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on August 27, 2013, 05:13:27 PM
So I finally got the A/C line.  It only took 4 weeks with 4 weeks of pestering.  I'm not sure if I mentioned this but their trick was to add RTV onto the fitting to help seal it.  The little hole uses to make sure the hose is all the way in had RTV in it.  Wish I knew about this trick a year ago.  So I ran the vacuum for 4hrs and then let it sit for around 20hrs to see if there were any leaks.  It passed so I filled it up.  It doesn't seem to be leaking anywhere yet.  The true test will be on the road trim I have planned in 2 weeks.  I'll have the A/C on the whole time as it will probably be over 100*.  It's about 100* here and the A/C brought that down to 40* at the vent.  So I'm hoping this is the final time I have to do this.

If so, I'll probably end up doing more and longer road trips.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on September 02, 2013, 04:59:54 PM
So I did a 100 road trip just to see how the Jeep will do.  Here's my thoughts.  I wish I had 50-100 more ft-lbs of torque.  The roads were all highways but with lots of ups and downs.  The biggest slope had be doing 50 in 3rd towards the top.  Except I was accelerating while everyone else was sluggish.  It's a 2mile slope where everyone else up slowing down.  I had some woman pull in front me me then not know what she was doing.  Every hill she'd slow down to 50mph then figure out she's holding up everyone then jet off.  Problem id I'm at 60-65 and have to slow down then I lose all momentum and have to down shift and rev to get back up to 55.  Very annoying but that's all power and engine issues which can't be helped right now.  Still, I've noticed how much slack was in my driveline with the old SYE.  I can feel the difference.

Other news, the A/C seems to be holding up.  I think I could fill a liter bottle with all the water that the A/C made.  I haven't made a drain through the firewall yet so it collects onto the pass. footwell.  On the plus side though, because of the exhaust heat, you get a nice steam bath going.  So I need to drill a hole for the drain sooner or later.  Shamwow's do hold a lot of water though.

The heat from the floor is a little annoying.  I'm wondering if I want to insulate the floor, at least for the front.  I'm thinking maybe use some adhesive heat shielding.  When you're on the road for more then an hour it does wear on you.  The other advantage of the heat shielding is that it deaded sound as well.  Also, I'm thinking about insulating the underside of the hardtop.  I'm glad it's not black, but it still radiates some heat when warmed up.  That will also help absorb sound.  With the sound of the road, tires, engine and drivetrain it does get a bit loud in the Jeep.  It's funny that you don't notice it at all on short trips.  I can even hear the stereo but after an hour you can't heat anything but all the noise.

I'm tempted to just throw in a 2Lo kit and call it done.  Then I see someone selling a D300 for cheap.   :rage:

I think the Jeep is as ready as it's ever going to be on my 600 mile trip next week.  I'd like to do Route 66 with a large chunk of the Lincoln thrown in sometime soon.  That's about 5000 miles...

With that in mind upgrading the brakes would be nice.  Dual batteries and a freezer.  I thinking about a Tuffy rear cargo or a under seat drawer to carry tools then put a freezer/refrigerator on top of that and on the other side maybe a Rubbermade actionpacker or two.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: neale_rs on September 03, 2013, 09:25:02 AM
Sounds good, it should turn out to be a very good expedition Jeep.  The fuel economy of the 2.5 when off road is a big plus. This is one thing the British Land Rover desert explorers always mention about big V8s not being good for "serious desert work" as compared to some tiny petrol or diesel engines.





Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on September 05, 2013, 07:29:54 PM
Packed the important stuff.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aHalxfTWC5g/Uikq_gRdqOI/AAAAAAAAuhU/7eOkxYhnRHE/w850-h638-no/IMG_3910.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: jfrabat on September 05, 2013, 09:01:10 PM
Packed the important stuff.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aHalxfTWC5g/Uikq_gRdqOI/AAAAAAAAuhU/7eOkxYhnRHE/w850-h638-no/IMG_3910.JPG)

Good luck!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on September 05, 2013, 09:14:27 PM
Good luck!
Thanks! I think it should be uneventful.  I did a 100 mile shackdown earlier in the week so it should be good.  I'm also adding an extra 100 miles to this trip.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: neale_rs on September 06, 2013, 05:15:30 AM
Will you be doing any off roading?   


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: FourbangerYJ on September 06, 2013, 07:10:38 AM
Packed the important stuff.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aHalxfTWC5g/Uikq_gRdqOI/AAAAAAAAuhU/7eOkxYhnRHE/w850-h638-no/IMG_3910.JPG)

You need more stuff!  :wall:  :lol:

I hope you have a great trip and your AC does not fail.  :busted:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: jfrabat on September 06, 2013, 08:16:50 AM
I am jealous of how much space he still has in the back; between my spares, the BIG ARSE Subwoofer box, and the high-lift in the rear, I don't have ANY space behind the rear seat!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on September 06, 2013, 12:18:16 PM
Will you be doing any off roading?   
Nope, it's all B roads.  Gonna take a side trip into the Sierra's though.
You need more stuff!  :wall:  :lol:

I hope you have a great trip and your AC does not fail.  :busted:
It's been holding pressure so far.  I get about 6oz of water pulled from the air.  I still need to drill a draim for it instead of having it drip into the floor.

I am jealous of how much space he still has in the back; between my spares, the BIG ARSE Subwoofer box, and the high-lift in the rear, I don't have ANY space behind the rear seat!
I removed the tool bag since that's just all of my electrical stuff like wiring and connectors.  My sub takes up only about 1ft cubed which is why I got it.  I left the rear seat in so it pins my toolbox in the back.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: neale_rs on September 06, 2013, 12:29:20 PM
Enjoy the trip.  Good luck on the road!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: aw12345 on September 07, 2013, 06:48:30 PM
Yall complain about lack of room try this when going camping  :yikes:

(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p289/aartw12345/tinkertoy/camping001.jpg) (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/aartw12345/media/tinkertoy/camping001.jpg.html)


(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5444/9692525951_f72f7582a8_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/19491564@N00/9692525951/)
camping 044 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/19491564@N00/9692525951/) by aartjestaartje (http://www.flickr.com/people/19491564@N00/), on Flickr



Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on September 08, 2013, 07:12:07 PM
Yall complain about lack of room try this when going camping  :yikes:
I just said I packed and Scott said I didn't pack enough.  I filled the back with food and clothes for two though.  Will be better once I get a freezer then I can get bins to fit the back.

Drove about 300 miles the other day. The jeep did well. Did 65-70mph most of the way.  Was able to actually pass and keep speed on hills.   Could probably do 80mph.  My tease is leaking a little though at the tail where the shift fork is.  Might take the take it apart again and do a 2lo while I'm in there. Have another 200 miles tomorrow then another 200 mile run home.

Oh here's something I found out.  If I run the ac for about .5-1hr I can fill a 17oz water bottle with the here.  Temps have been 100* every day now.  I'd hate to live in the Central Valley.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: neale_rs on September 08, 2013, 09:28:18 PM
Can you drink the water?  It should be good as long as the surfaces are clean.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on September 08, 2013, 09:49:49 PM
Can you drink the water?  It should be good as long as the surfaces are clean.
:lol: in an emergency I bet you could.  It's condensation on the aluminum condenser that travels through the plastic duct.  It smelled ok.  Might be good to purify it.  It's interesting though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: jfrabat on September 09, 2013, 12:02:34 PM
My tease is leaking a little though

Maybe she's not teasing then...   :blbl:

Glad to hear your trip is going well!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: neale_rs on September 09, 2013, 12:27:10 PM
:lol: in an emergency I bet you could.  It's condensation on the aluminum condenser that travels through the plastic duct.  It smelled ok.  Might be good to purify it.  It's interesting though.

It's now the ultimate desert exploration vehicle, with self renewing water supply!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on September 11, 2013, 06:46:04 PM
Well, Im back!  THe good news is I'm back and the Jeep did alright.  The transfer case is leaking a little at the shift fork area on the rear housing.  I need to RTV it again.  A/C held pressure and worked great.

The bad.  The A/C Compressor took a dump and seized up about 40 minutes from home.  It got hot enough that the paint on the clutch melted and was flaking off.  Works find if the compressor is off so the clutch is working.  I'm not sure what I'll end up doing.  I contacted JeepAir again and will see what they say.  It's pretty obvious that the compressor crapped the bed.  This means I'll have to get my system drained and recharged again!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: jfrabat on September 12, 2013, 06:56:58 AM
Well, Im back!  THe good news is I'm back and the Jeep did alright.  The transfer case is leaking a little at the shift fork area on the rear housing.  I need to RTV it again.  A/C held pressure and worked great.

The bad.  The A/C Compressor took a dump and seized up about 40 minutes from home.  It got hot enough that the paint on the clutch melted and was flaking off.  Works find if the compressor is off so the clutch is working.  I'm not sure what I'll end up doing.  I contacted JeepAir again and will see what they say.  It's pretty obvious that the compressor crapped the bed.  This means I'll have to get my system drained and recharged again!

If I was in the US, I would offer you a compressor I got sitting in the garage...  but the shipping alone is probably more than the compressor, so I am not even going to bother offering!


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: aw12345 on September 13, 2013, 08:42:37 PM
Well, Im back!  THe good news is I'm back and the Jeep did alright.  The transfer case is leaking a little at the shift fork area on the rear housing.  I need to RTV it again.  A/C held pressure and worked great.

The bad.  The A/C Compressor took a dump and seized up about 40 minutes from home.  It got hot enough that the paint on the clutch melted and was flaking off.  Works find if the compressor is off so the clutch is working.  I'm not sure what I'll end up doing.  I contacted JeepAir again and will see what they say.  It's pretty obvious that the compressor crapped the bed.  This means I'll have to get my system drained and recharged again!

Probably ran out of oil after the repeated bleed downs and vacuuming


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on September 13, 2013, 09:07:40 PM
Probably ran out of oil after the repeated bleed downs and vacuuming
I don't think that much oil if any was lost.  The leaks didn't have much residue or signs of oil.  This was also 3 days after a 4hr drive followed by another 4hr drive.  I was at around 3.5hrs on the third day.  The A/C was also turned way down compared to the first two days.

I'll know more once I'm able to disconnect the compressor though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on January 05, 2014, 01:20:14 PM
Okay, so I've been having FI issues since I got back from Yosemite a few months ago.  In another thread I mentioned getting 12,27,33,55.  Then I started getting 12, 27, 27, 33, 55 and could feel the stumble in the engine.  I checked all of the wiring.  In the meantime I re-gapped all of the plugs and it went away for a few weeks.  I'm not sure why since they're not related.  So the stumbling came back and I ended up swapping out all of the injectors.  I didn't want to go through the trouble of finding which ones were bad since it was intermittent at best.  luckily I have the other 4 injectors from when I bought the initial 8 years ago.  It seems to be running fine again.  A bit stronger since it's firing on all cylinders now.  Took about 15 minutes with all the futzing I did.  That's with disconnecting the while fuel rail and then trying to pull the old injectors out which was really tight.  They will slip off the o-rings and you'll have to fish them out.  To get them back in be sure to add some grease to the o-ring or else they won't want to go back in.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-bMCmIc5-t1M/Usm4ZdHO87I/AAAAAAAAwi0/Dm03Xr0oTrs/s912/IMG_4177.JPG)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ao_-ofqB_IQ/Usm4Zc4G5LI/AAAAAAAAwi8/zS-FsasWaV0/s912/IMG_4178.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on January 05, 2014, 07:57:06 PM
Bought another A.C compressor and a new Filter.  After all the problems I had with leaks, enough lub escaped that the compressor seized when coming home from Yosemite.  Next month I'm planning to drive down to LA (350 miles) so I get to redo the A/C.  At least I know the system isn't leaking as it's still pressurized from the last time.  Now I've got to discharge it and then recharge again...  I seriously hope this is the last time.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on January 06, 2014, 06:12:32 PM
Nothing too exciting.  Got some Rugged Ridge greasable shackles just so I could use the bolts.  They're .5" dog-legs which I don't really want to run so I reused my old 0" plates that are custom made.  I run the same rigged ridge shackles in the back and the greasable bolts made a noticeable difference in the ride that I wanted the bolts up front as well.  Buying them this way was cheaper then buying the bolts alone.

The fittings are all on the inside so they're a little less likely to get ground off.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cA6466UHxaM/UstTPTDmsII/AAAAAAAAwj0/aWmJE4Wptqc/s512/IMG_4183.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: sharpxmen on January 06, 2014, 08:51:54 PM
you have poly bushings?
are these grade 8 bolts?
are those locking nuts?

just a heads up on the last 2.

also
bushing sleeve needs to be drilled half way (if the shackles didn't come with one)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on January 06, 2014, 10:00:25 PM
you have poly bushings?
are these grade 8 bolts?
are those locking nuts?

just a heads up on the last 2.

also
bushing sleeve needs to be drilled half way (if the shackles didn't come with one)

Bushings are all poly
Hardware is Grade 5
Yes, they are locking.  They are a PITA to install because of it. They're Center Locknuts.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: sharpxmen on January 06, 2014, 11:55:49 PM
by the book should be at least grade 8, a lot of us are running 5 there as it seems to be the norm for aftermarket shackles or most of them anyway (i had grade 5 also but replaced them eventually with 8)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on January 07, 2014, 12:05:28 AM
by the book should be at least grade 8, a lot of us are running 5 there as it seems to be the norm for aftermarket shackles or most of them anyway (i had grade 5 also but replaced them eventually with 8)
IIRC, Stock are Grade 5's though.  I prefer Grade 5's since you can tell when they're getting stressed unlike a Grade 8.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: sharpxmen on January 07, 2014, 08:41:10 AM
IIRC, Stock are Grade 5's though.  I prefer Grade 5's since you can tell when they're getting stressed unlike a Grade 8.

can't be grade 5, torque spec in FSM says 100 ftlb and you'd be 10 over for max allowable for grade5 (which is 90 for fine thread at 1/2 inch diameter), grade 8 is 120 max.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on January 07, 2014, 12:48:30 PM
can't be grade 5, torque spec in FSM says 100 ftlb and you'd be 10 over for max allowable for grade5 (which is 90 for fine thread at 1/2 inch diameter), grade 8 is 120 max.
Okay, you're right it's a Grade 8. 

(http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/178874/178874-lg.jpg)

But no one torques them to 100 lbs unless you want a really stiff ride.  Which is probably why MORE, Currie, Rugged Ridge, All-Pro and Crown (who makes the OE bolts as well as HD shackles) use Grade 5.  I think the bolts are 9/16" and not 1/2" though.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: sharpxmen on January 07, 2014, 11:13:37 PM
they're 1/2 inch. With poly, the bolt tightened at 100ftlb and the bushing greased you should be able to move it by hand really easy (the shackle) so it won't make a difference in the stiffness, you're right with the stock rubber bushings, it binds there since they won't move freely like the polys. if you really want no binding at all with the poly you can get the ones that are for stock shackles and they have the sleeve about 1/8'' longer than the bushings so you don't have side friction at all (they are also somewhat round or at an angle at the ends vs the other ones which are flat), when you torque the bolt it will tighten on the sleeve in both cases. I found that the energy suspension ones have the best inner sleeves which are solid, the cheaper ones are rolled out of soft steel and they tend to collapse when tightened at spec and in that case it will bind (had that happening and i replaced them with the solid sleeves).


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on January 07, 2014, 11:21:16 PM
they're 1/2 inch. With poly, the bolt tightened at 100ftlb and the bushing greased you should be able to move it by hand really easy (the shackle) so it won't make a difference in the stiffness, you're right with the stock rubber bushings, it binds there since they won't move freely like the polys. if you really want no binding at all with the poly you can get the ones that are for stock shackles and they have the sleeve about 1/8'' longer than the bushings so you don't have side friction at all (they are also somewhat round or at an angle at the ends vs the other ones which are flat), when you torque the bolt it will tighten on the sleeve in both cases. I found that the energy suspension ones have the best inner sleeves which are solid, the cheaper ones are rolled out of soft steel and they tend to collapse when tightened at spec and in that case it will bind (had that happening and i replaced them with the solid sleeves).
The greasable bolts are 9/16".  The bolts I removed are 1/2" though.  I still don't torque them to 100 lbs.  I've always done 45-50 lbs.  It's the old school way...


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: dwtaylorpdx on January 08, 2014, 12:29:35 AM
+1 I use grade 8 bolts, and self locking nuts, on top of the main nut, tighten till play is gone. (I grab the shackle with a big crescent wrench and pull side to side. )


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on January 08, 2014, 12:35:14 AM
+1 I use grade 8 bolts, and self locking nuts, on top of the main nut, tighten till play is gone. (I grab the shackle with a big crescent wrench and pull side to side. )
Now this is turning into a Grade 5 vs 8.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Mozman68 on January 08, 2014, 07:32:04 PM
I drive a TJ.... :wave:


I don't have shackles and felt left out of the discussion.


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: sharpxmen on January 08, 2014, 08:13:41 PM
I drive a TJ.... :wave:


I don't have shackles and felt left out of the discussion.

well, you can always replace your suspension arm bolts with some from home depot :lol:


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: dwtaylorpdx on January 08, 2014, 11:55:54 PM
Now this is turning into a Grade 5 vs 8.

I use the grade 8 only because they are available flanged, 5's would be fine..
On my front shackles I also have a lock mechanism I built that prevents the bolt
from turning so it has to turn inside the upper front and lower front bushings.
I had 1 stick in the frame bushing and the shackle tried to cut the bolt off..

 


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on January 17, 2014, 10:06:00 PM
Well, I started work on my on again off again A/C.  It went tits up on the way home after doing 600 miles.  I was about 45 minutes from home when I got a squealing and a heavy burning rubber smell.  The A/C compressor stopped turning at 65 mph and about 4000 RPM.  Most likely ran out of lubrication.

Jumped forward to today and I've got a new compressor and filter.  JeepAir won't warranty a compressor unless you get a new filter as well.  The Jeep doesn't use an orifice tube like on most modern cars today.  Basically it's a small inline filter.  So when your compressor explodes it sends bits of metal into the system.  Luckily it wasn't the case with mine and all the lines were clear.  Jeep Air recommended partially disassembling the system and blowing air though it to make sure there aren't pieces of 'black death' inside.  What most likely happened with my compressor is that with all the leaking issues, enough PAG oil was lost to cause the bearings to seize.  The biggest PITA was taking the expansion valve off.  It's attached to the condenser which is under the dash.  To make it a PITA, they cover the valve with this tar substance so you have to dig it out of the crap.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Recy09LZRpE/UtoFDiwbKmI/AAAAAAAAwqY/-_LYq6SQl8E/s800/IMG_4196.JPG)

The other problem I had was that I didn't put a plug connector on all the wires and so I had to work on it sitting in the Jeep.  The other good news I had was that even though the compressor took a dump, the leaking issues I had was gone.  The system had held pressure and the A/C clutch could be heard turning on and off.  Since all of the hoses and o-rings were essentially new, I left them in place.  They had only been in the Jeep for 3 months.  I took special care not to spill any PAG oil.  Of course you'll lose a little when connecting the hoses to the compressor though.  Normally you'd add the oil when you fill the system.  The way Jeep Air does it is puts all the oil in the compressor so you have to be a little careful.

I did notice that the new compressor isn't the exact same model as the original one I had.  This was a 02 while the other was an 01.  The only difference I could find was that the wires for the clutch were facing out and not in.  It wasn't an issue since I'd prefer to have them on the outside, closer to the harness.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6qU7FdmnGLk/UtoFFafZ6lI/AAAAAAAAwqg/NNA2O1-BUeA/s512/IMG_4198.JPG)

Here's the old compressor.  It was over a year since I bought it so it wasn't covered under Jeep Air's warranty.  Too bad too.  It had very low mileage on it.  I'm sure the internals, sans the bearings are still good.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-92QzV2js4oQ/UtoFDpdGkLI/AAAAAAAAwqQ/w8WMKb3Pz-0/s800/IMG_4197.JPG)

So, I'll have to vacuum out the system and then recharge it.  I saved that for another day since I usually like to let the vacuum run for an hour or two and sit overnight.  I'm hoping this will be the last time in a long time that I'll need to rebuild the system.  It's only 3 years old and I've had issues for all three years.  I also need to buy another box of R134a before it becomes hard to find as the auto manufacturers are moving away from it.  I get a case of 6 cans for about $30-40 shipped.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ne0B_xog2go/Utt3SWnxeoI/AAAAAAAAwsY/5Vzvvlav6Do/w889-h667-no/IMG_4200.JPG)


Title: So, I got to work on the Jeep today...
Post by: Jeffy on August 28, 2014, 12:16:48 PM
It's always an adventure... says someone who doesn't need to get anywhere in particular at any given time.  Drove home and noticed the Jeep peeing on my driveway.  It wasn't too bad so took a peak to see what was up.  It was coming from the passenger side which isn't where anything in particular is located.  Then I noticed the plastic bung on the radiator was leaking.  I reached up and it felt loose so I gave it a turn.  Yeah, well that was a bad idea.  The head snapped off in my hand and it started leaking even more.  I ended up just throwing a bucked under it and went inside.

So, there were two ways yo fix it.  One was to lay on my back and try to reach past everything and then figure out hot to turn the threads.  This involved draining the radiator first though.  Since I had to disconnect the lower radiator hose, I decided to just pull the radiator.  There are 6 bolts holding it on, 4 for the fan and one extra for the PS reservoir.  Since the mechanical fan was long since gone it was easier to do it this way and took no more then 15 minutes.

With the radiator out and laying down, I found I could wiggle the threads so in theory it would be easy to remove.  Because the bung is tightened down, the top of the threads weren't flush with the top of the hole.  Tried using the hot screwdriver trick but it failed.  On a few other big forums people recommend getting the screwdriver hot then melting a groove into the top of it.  They also tell you you can use a lighter to heat it up.  Well, I can tel you it's not going to work.  If you want to heat it up enough to melt a groove, you're going to have to use a torch.  Since I didn't have a torch, that idea was nixed.

I ended up taking the screwdriver and tapping on the outer edge of what was left of the top of the threads.  I was able to get it to more in sixteenth's of a turn increments if I was lucky.  You don't need to turn it more then say 2-3 rotations though.  Once you can feel teh threads, you can use duck bill pliers to grab it and rotate it the rest of the way.  Once it out, you can burn the plastic with the lighter or you can take it with you to the auto parts store.

I ended up buying the parts on Amazon and should have them tomorrow.  All of the auto parts stores say they only have to plastic 1/4 turn bungs that are used on cars.  So, I'll waste a day.  I looked around for brass fitting but couldn't find any.  Though maybe I might have the petcock on my old radiator but if I had one, I wouldn't find it.  I probably could have gone to the hardware store and into plumbing to find a brass bung though.  I think it might be 1/8 NPT but I'm not sure.

So in the meantime, I put the Jeep back together.  Again it was very quick.  So quick that I ended up cleaning up the garage a bit.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f2rXiLds4ys/U_94qtqqq4I/AAAAAAAA6Mg/a29T-owLBZw/h1800-no/IMG_5930.JPG)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-fjGM7rgewH4/U_94yjSfg1I/AAAAAAAA6Nk/6gDZEdHRyYQ/h800-no/IMG_5940.JPG)

There's almost enough room for another engine in there.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZSWVKWDUGYo/U_94uQGLXGI/AAAAAAAA6M4/4Y1BBSPZZnA/w1032-h774-no/IMG_5935.JPG)


Title: Re: So, I got to work on the Jeep today...
Post by: neale_rs on August 29, 2014, 09:37:32 AM
So is this was not with the original drain plug?


Title: Re: So, I got to work on the Jeep today...
Post by: Jeffy on August 29, 2014, 01:37:59 PM
So is this was not with the original drain plug?
It was a radiator I got for free.   I think it was from Radiatorbarn or the other online radiator place.  Tanks are metal unlike the original though.


Title: Re: So, I got to work on the Jeep today...
Post by: sharpxmen on August 29, 2014, 05:12:03 PM
It was a radiator I got for free.   I think it was from Radiatorbarn or the other online radiator place.  Tanks are metal unlike the original though.

I don't think it's NPT but if it is just use a metal plug (preferably brass if that's what your tanks are made out of).


Title: Re: So, I got to work on the Jeep today...
Post by: Jeffy on August 29, 2014, 07:11:50 PM
I don't think it's NPT but if it is just use a metal plug (preferably brass if that's what your tanks are made out of).
I ordered a Omix-Ada brass fitting.  It's OEM.  I checked the plug and it's a lot coarser then 1/8 NPT.


Title: Re: So, I got to work on the Jeep today...
Post by: Jeffy on August 30, 2014, 03:25:49 PM
Well the part I ordered was an OEM but was the wrong size for my radiator.  The fitting was 1/4 NPT but for some reason my radiator uses a M10-1.50.  Funny since nothing seems to use that size anymore.  I see M10-1.25 but hard to find one that's 1.50.  I bought a socket bolt that I might just use and forget about it.  It's easier to drain from teh bottom radiator hose anyway.  I'll keep looking for a little while though.


Title: Re: So, I got to work on the Jeep today...
Post by: Jeffy on August 30, 2014, 05:49:32 PM
Got fed up.   :thumb:  Used the M10-1.50 bolt Allen bolt that I got from the hardware store.  It's done and back together.  No leaks.

While it was down, I also rewired the A/C to the idle up turns on whenever the A/C is on no matter if the compressor is on or not.  The idle was a real PITA with it triggered by the compressor.  Sometimes it would be kinda smooth and other times it was down right boggy.  Now you don't even notice it when it kicks on.  I think this is the correct way to do it.  The other way was almost as bad as not having it idle up at all.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d-7d5ARsnkg/VAJu_Yr5DAI/AAAAAAAA6Rk/k_9oQm7Yko0/w905-h1207-no/IMG_5948.JPG)


Title: Re: So, I got to work on the Jeep today...
Post by: 95 Lowbuck on September 25, 2014, 04:54:17 AM
Just wondering,
From you pic I see you run A/C and OBA.
Your OBA compressure runs a standard V belt.
What pulley is that driven off of?
I'm looking into adding A/C but currently I'm using a stock A/C compressure
in the stock location for my OBA.


Title: Re: So, I got to work on the Jeep today...
Post by: sharpxmen on September 26, 2014, 06:48:19 AM
Just wondering,
From you pic I see you run A/C and OBA.
Your OBA compressure runs a standard V belt.
What pulley is that driven off of?
I'm looking into adding A/C but currently I'm using a stock A/C compressure
in the stock location for my OBA.
he's using a combo pulley on the alternator (serpentine + V belt to OBA) - sold by Kilby http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/pulleys.htm
if I'm not mistaking the bracket is also from kilby, this is the kit with the belt, bolts, bracket and pulley included for 91-98 models with A/C http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/KE-1000.htm


Title: Re: So, I got to work on the Jeep today...
Post by: Jeffy on September 26, 2014, 12:47:31 PM
Yup, my OBA is Kilby though I'm not sure if the company is still in business.  Brad sold the company to another guy and last I heard he fell on hard times IIRC.

I have both Kilby kits though.  One that uses the stock A/C compressor location and the one that allows me to OBA and the A/C compressor.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ne0B_xog2go/Utt3SWnxeoI/AAAAAAAAwsY/5Vzvvlav6Do/w940-h705-no/IMG_4200.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on February 17, 2015, 11:10:28 PM
Ran out of gas...  (you can see the gas station off in the distance where the dark trees on the left horizon. Less then 2 miles away.) Too much WOT and heavy winds.  Got a whole 12.1 mpg.  :lol:  Made it up by doing a stretch from LAX to Buttonwillow, around 130 miles and got 23.5 mpg. Got 16.3 mpg when I was driving around LA.  I haven't calculated the 246 mile leg on the way back though.

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kr4LIotXnO8/VOQKwNgSp1I/AAAAAAAA69Q/a4wGhTKYUTc/w836-h627-no/IMG_6310.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VwTBXKrS-tI/VOQLamD6wQI/AAAAAAAA69k/JncYQj76K4g/w836-h627-no/IMG_6312.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s17QY8m4EyU/VOQKwFsJhwI/AAAAAAAA69A/CBC9uJau2Zo/w470-h627-no/IMG_6311.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on February 20, 2015, 08:37:11 PM
Here's some pics of my endeavour.  The sender seems to work for the most part.  When it's F it reads 97 ohms.  When it's on E it reads about 5 ohms.  Though for some reason I say it jump to 20 ohms.  That could have been because of the ground though.  At the gauge I added a wire off the signal line so I can get an ohm reading  without taking the whole dash apart again.  It too shows 20 ohms sometimes.  I cycled it several times and the gauge does work like it's supposed to.  I'm think that I might just replace the sender.  Something is up with it as it's not consistent.  I also noticed that when it reads E, there is about 3-4 gallons left in the tank.  Also my seal has seen better days but it will seems to hold.  I'll replace it when I order a new sender.  I did manage to lose one of the bolt for the skid plate.  I have no idea where it went.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oJw8lcPBSjY/VOftAIG1rRI/AAAAAAAA7L8/IBS0zfscOFU/w836-h627-no/IMG_6567.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QYKpPffG_y0/VOftAC13CcI/AAAAAAAA7MI/tdcwMWglzZI/w836-h627-no/IMG_6568.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gaFgNO4ppgs/VOftBOEbDtI/AAAAAAAA7SE/VdjlZBIxVw4/w836-h627-no/IMG_6570.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nRULFm9z4zk/VOftJGiTa3I/AAAAAAAA7Ng/vYKOz50uQXE/w836-h627-no/IMG_6581.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4mSaBkzCNXo/VOftCizW2FI/AAAAAAAA7MY/_yTvKzdJP8k/w836-h627-no/IMG_6572.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eKITpISxPnI/VOftX-FbHGI/AAAAAAAA7RM/XGx76cHAg5w/w836-h627-no/IMG_6608.JPG)

Check out all the bugs I picked up on the roadtrip.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wM3ot1mfyow/VOftZLaElII/AAAAAAAA7Rc/WbTfJ-e32zE/w470-h627-no/IMG_6610.JPG)


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: grumpygy on February 21, 2015, 01:58:23 PM
Get the gasket at a dealer.  There is also an upgrade with a metal spacer to strengthen it and keep from damaging the gasket.  Its recall 94V106000.

also found this.


Quote
After weeks of problem solving, and changing everything from spark plugs to fuel filter, I finally figured out why my 92 YJ was running so bad.
 After dropping the fuel tank, I discovered the sending unit gasket had deteriorated. I purchased a new gasket and sending unit ring. Inside the bag was a letter from Chrysler. A recall has been issued for 1987 through early 1994 model year Jeep Wrangler vehicles , built through August 1993, equipped with a plastic Fuel Tank. My pump and assembly looked fine, but I changed them along with the gasket. The gasket and ring cost me $13 + tax. The pump assembly cost a wopping $500 after taxes. Doing the work myself saved me several hundred dollars.

 Hope this info will help anyone with their Jeep problems.


Fuel Tank Sending Unit Gasket
 Parts package c3906240
 Safety recall #624
 California safety and emissions recall #625

If you look at this you will see the kit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-JEEP-FUEL-TANK-SENDING-UNIT-GASKET-RECALL-624-625-N-O-S-87-93-WRANGLER-MDL-/400820658043?nma=true&si=1s1GJRpOWFIQb3UVgn1ygXYQmE0%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


Title: Re: Jeffy's Project Leek(s-A-Lot)
Post by: Jeffy on February 21, 2015, 08:13:26 PM
Get the gasket at a dealer.  There is also an upgrade with a metal spacer to strengthen it and keep from damaging the gasket.  Its recall 94V106000.

also found this.


If you look at this you will see the kit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-JEEP-FUEL-TANK-SENDING-UNIT-GASKET-RECALL-624-625-N-O-S-87-93-WRANGLER-MDL-/400820658043?nma=true&si=1s1GJRpOWFIQb3UVgn1ygXYQmE0%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

I don't need the metal ring.  I had the recall done back in the 90's and already have it.  You can see it in the first pic.  It sits on top of the sending unit flange.


Title: Fuel bowl- fuel sender not working
Post by: Jeffy on March 01, 2015, 03:52:30 PM
So, after taking the tank down and doing some testing, I found the sender to be working properly.  Raise the arm and the gauge reads Full.  Lower the arm and the gauge reads Empty.  Unplug the harness and the gauge goes to Full.  Problem is when I put everything back the arm must have gotten stuck in the empty position.  Looking at the picture, the arm should swing next to the fuel bowl on the upper left side.  Right where it's bulging out...  So, here's the dilemma.  Do I bend the arm on the sender to pass by the bowl (I think I can add a twist so it's moved away from the bowl,) or do I just remove the bowl.  The other option would be to maybe trim the bowl a little although not that easy to do on that side.

From what I've read, pre-91's don't even have the bowl.  I've read that sometimes the bowl breaks away anyway.  Mine doesn't look as deformed as some I've seen.  When the gauge reads Empty, there is still about an inch of gas in the tank.  I'd imagine that the bowl is just going to deform more over time, though it will only interferes with the sender arm.

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gaFgNO4ppgs/VOftBOEbDtI/AAAAAAAA7SE/VdjlZBIxVw4/w836-h627-no/IMG_6570.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oJw8lcPBSjY/VOftAIG1rRI/AAAAAAAA7L8/IBS0zfscOFU/w839-h629-no/IMG_6567.JPG)


Title: Re: Fuel bowl- fuel sender not working
Post by: 95 Lowbuck on March 08, 2015, 08:49:51 AM
Forgive me for asking, but what is the purpose of the bowl.
I just did a FP on my Ford Ranger and it didn't have one.
Might want to call Crown or another supplier to see if their replacement do.


Title: Re: Fuel bowl- fuel sender not working
Post by: Jeffy on March 08, 2015, 01:04:27 PM
Forgive me for asking, but what is the purpose of the bowl.
I just did a FP on my Ford Ranger and it didn't have one.
Might want to call Crown or another supplier to see if their replacement do.

It's so the fuel pump doesn't starve when low on gas.  If you take a hard turn, the bowl will hold enough gas.  No, it's not replaceable.  You have to buy a new gas tank.  It's welded to the bottom of the tank.


Title: Replacing the Fuel Pump and Sender Unit.
Post by: Jeffy on April 20, 2015, 10:46:28 PM
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4mSaBkzCNXo/VOftCizW2FI/AAAAAAAA7MY/_yTvKzdJP8k/w721-h541-no/IMG_6572.JPG)

So this is the second time I've had to drop the gas tank.  Hopefully this will fix everything.  The main problem was the fuel sender not working.  Strange thing is, when I pulled the pump, the sender worked.  Dropped it back in and it stopped working.  I ended up getting a Crown Auto. replacement pump with a 20 gal. sender.  Mine was a 15 and had been kinds wonky since 1993.  For some reason it stopped working when you put the ignition to ON.  It would work when the engine was started.  Then it started not working but would start after a few bumps and miles.  I tested the sender with some string and the arm seems to move freely.  I didn't have to do anything to the tank.

Dropping the tank is fairly simple with my Jeep.  I can disconnect the exhaust tip and remove the hanger without trouble.  This makes it a lot easier to drop the tank.  Otherwise the tank will hit the hanger.  On a stock Jeep, you'll have to deal with the exhaust in the way.  You could tip the tank to the driver side and get it out that way but it's a whole lot easier to get back up if you can just jack it straight up.  That brings up the jack.  A floor jack placed in the center will be able to hold the tank up.  Just make sure the tank is low before doing it.  When lowering the tank pay attention to the thinner rubber hose.  This is the evap line and will hang up on the right side of the tank if you lower it without disconnecting it.  Since my Jeep has a 1.25" body lift, it's easy to disconnect the sender/pump harness before dropping the tank.  You'll have to reach up there and disconnect it as well.  If you're careful, you can lower it without disconnecting the fuel line and return line.  Just shift the tank to the driver side once it's far enough down.

There are 3 1/2" bolts on the front of the tank skid and 3 in the back.  Don't bother removing the two long bolts those just hold the tank straps on.  I usually end up undoing the screws in the filler neck so it drops down with the tank.  It's a PITA to disconnect the hoses from the tank with it up, but it can be done.

Once the tank is down, there should be 8 screws holding the pump in place.  They happen to be the same size as the ones that hold the filler neck on.  If your YJ had the recall done it should have a metal ring on top of the fuel pump flange.  It keeps the flange from flexing and the seal from leaking.  Also, make sure the seal is intact.  Mine was original from the recall and was badly cracked.  When replacing the pump, before to pick up a new seal, they're cheap.

Take a peak inside the tank and see if the fuel bowl is still attached.  There should be a beige square cup welded to the bottom of the tank.  If yours is broken or floating around inside the tank, fish it out.  The seal and the metal retainer can only go one one way.  The bolt spacing on one side is wider then the other.  Other then that, it's pretty simple.

If you want to test the sender you can do it with a multimeter.  Set the meter to ohms.  When the arm on the sender is down, like when it's empty, it should read 90 ohms.  When the arm is up it should read about 7 ohms or less.  You can test this from the harness on top of the tank as well.  Also, to test the gauge, you can unplug the harness and the gauge should move to 'F'.  You can also test this at the gauge.  There is a screws on the back of the gauge where you can probe with the multimeter.  The other probe goes to ground.

Hope that helps the next guy.


(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CksP5CwlLXs/VTW9BdHoIFI/AAAAAAAA7dg/nmwbGkGCsWE/w400-no/IMG_6812.jpg)(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qB48W0_8fzQ/VTW9CFjxMkI/AAAAAAAA7cA/aMmlKIfHYbg/w400-no/IMG_6815.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-C6BqalPaPQQ/VTW9BbGvBKI/AAAAAAAA7b0/-og3iuoXzbc/w400-no/IMG_6814.jpg)(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pf7uP6i-8QY/VTW9CbiXh3I/AAAAAAAA7cQ/ZJxKnvhjmnc/w400-no/IMG_6816.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gaFgNO4ppgs/VOftBOEbDtI/AAAAAAAA7SI/PfySIZDod3U/w400-no/IMG_6570.JPG)(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oJw8lcPBSjY/VOftAIG1rRI/AAAAAAAA7L8/IBS0zfscOFU/w400-no/IMG_6567.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vJz5b2RHZkg/VTW9DF6d9CI/AAAAAAAA7dQ/0r7dcb3NJQo/w400-no/IMG_6818.jpg)(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ngcveM3CIbc/VTW9ChDb3YI/AAAAAAAA7dE/P_3gvnoiMaw/w400-no/IMG_6817.jpg)


Title: Re: Replacing the Fuel Pump and Sender Unit.
Post by: bootguy on April 22, 2015, 09:01:32 PM
Thank you for the write up, as I have been looking at putting in the 20 Gal sending unit.  I also need to trim the vent hose to utilize the whole 20 Gal.  Question, there is another opening on the tank (3rd photo down on the left side) the white plastic piece.  Is that where the vent hose attaches, and what kind of condition was the rubber in?


Title: Re: Replacing the Fuel Pump and Sender Unit.
Post by: Jeffy on April 22, 2015, 09:36:39 PM
Thank you for the write up, as I have been looking at putting in the 20 Gal sending unit.  I also need to trim the vent hose to utilize the whole 20 Gal.  Question, there is another opening on the tank (3rd photo down on the left side) the white plastic piece.  Is that where the vent hose attaches, and what kind of condition was the rubber in?
There are two vents on either side of the tank.  That's where the rubber vent hoses connect.  The second pic. is of the vent lines.


Title: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: Jeffy on April 23, 2015, 06:02:20 PM
Well, after fixing the gas gauge issue, I'm moving to the next one.  The leaking windshield frame.  I'm still not certain where it's leaking from.  Today, I did some poking around and found some rust holes.  Now, I'm not sure if this is where it's leaking from but I'm sure it isn't helping.  When it rains really hard and it's windy, rain is forced inside and it drips from the wiper motor mount and down the speaker face then onto the floor.  If it's raining hard it will almost stream.

We're supposedly going to have a storm this weekend so I'll be able to see if it's actually leaking from where I think it is or somewhere else.  I've taped off the windshield so it should leak inside.  If that fixes it I'll try to patch up the rust.  Though as a back up plan I checked the torx bolts and all of them can be loosened so I can, if all else fails, replace the whole windshield frame.

You can see more holes opened up after cleaning it with a wire wheel.  :yikes:

Anyone buy this kit yet?  http://www.quadratec.com/products/12501_0001.htm  It's supposed to be everything you need to swap the windshield frame.  I'll still have to dig out the wiper motor and arms but they're not damaged.  Seems like a decent price for the glass, frame and gaskets.

The one good thing is I don't rely on my windshield or frame for roll over protection.

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9YAJKwkPxCI/VTmSV3sf4sI/AAAAAAAA7ec/Q9mInFj7zoc/w500-no/IMG_6828.jpg)(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--xbsoMEIOi4/VTmSVuRxQwI/AAAAAAAA7eU/mHfC55KMi0c/w500-no/IMG_6829.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-i0Q8LF1Q5qc/VTmSXQvi9QI/AAAAAAAA7es/fOB8v_tXS6E/w500-no/IMG_6831.jpg)(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NAR0oRNo_Nw/VTmSYPMyplI/AAAAAAAA7ew/q-f37y5_rDg/w500-no/IMG_6834.jpg)


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: neale_rs on April 24, 2015, 07:21:11 AM
I need to check mine, it has plenty of rust in other spots, so it might have the in this place too.


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: Jeffy on April 24, 2015, 11:06:16 AM
I need to check mine, it has plenty of rust in other spots, so it might have the in this place too.
It's pretty common for there to be rust in both corners and in the center.  Water isn't able to drain from there and it collects silt which holds the moisture as well.


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: grumpygy on April 25, 2015, 03:40:04 PM
  That's exactly where the rust was in Mine.  And yes I seemed to always have water on the floor.

  Got the windshield frame and windshield kit from Quadratec.


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: Jeffy on April 25, 2015, 03:54:31 PM
Well, I taped it all off but water still got behind it so the test was inconclusive.  I had rain water on the floor.  Actually, I put a ShamWow and it sucks it all up.  What a PITA.  I'm not sure if it's leaking from the frame or the cowl seal, which was replaced a few years ago.  It's frustrating.


Title: Re: Replacing the Fuel Pump and Sender Unit.
Post by: jagular7 on April 25, 2015, 06:35:58 PM
Did you forget to take a pic why this is a 15gal tank compared to the same size 20gal tank?

Could have showed what makes it that way, I guess. YJs have a 'soft' line you can cut. Whereas the TJ has a 'hard' line. My TJ gas tank mod is somewhere in this forum from years and years ago. My YJ mod was done some 2 yrs ago. Should have pics of that as well. TJ you have to drop tank and access through sending unit. YJ mod can be done with it in Jeep.


Title: Re: Replacing the Fuel Pump and Sender Unit.
Post by: Jeffy on April 25, 2015, 07:35:05 PM
Did you forget to take a pic why this is a 15gal tank compared to the same size 20gal tank?

Could have showed what makes it that way, I guess. YJs have a 'soft' line you can cut. Whereas the TJ has a 'hard' line. My TJ gas tank mod is somewhere in this forum from years and years ago. My YJ mod was done some 2 yrs ago. Should have pics of that as well. TJ you have to drop tank and access through sending unit. YJ mod can be done with it in Jeep.

I did a write up way back in 2000 for 4x4wire.com.  http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/fuel/15to20gal/   This wasn't supposed to be about converting the tank, just checking and replacing the sender.


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: sharpxmen on April 26, 2015, 12:04:16 AM
i bought the frame and gaskets individually from Amazon, but still yet to get it painted and install it (need w/shield also) - i'm missing the hinges and all I could find were aftermarket ones which in the reviews everyone was complaining they are thinner than stock and little flimsy.


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: Jeffy on April 26, 2015, 01:35:16 PM
i bought the frame and gaskets individually from Amazon, but still yet to get it painted and install it (need w/shield also) - i'm missing the hinges and all I could find were aftermarket ones which in the reviews everyone was complaining they are thinner than stock and little flimsy.
You aren't able to reuse your stock hinges?  I think it really depends on the brand.  Kenrol is usually cheap stuff.  I'm pretty sure Crown Auto. uses 16 gauge which is what the OEM panels are.  I'm not certain about Omix-Ada but they own a bunch of other companies and I think do have some 16 gauge stuff.  Those are the only two companies that I would trust with OEM parts since they grabbed all of the NOS and supply lines from Jeep.

Again though, with stock parts you're looking at the newest one being 17 years old.  Hinges were painted while on the vehicle so the backsides aren't protected.  Many rust so bad that they break when lowering the windshield.  Stock hinges are really thick though.  I just looked at Kenrol and Smittybilt and both are thin.  I'd go with Crown, http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Exterior-Parts-Accessories/Windshield-Hinge-Kit.aspx?t_c=3&t_s=470&t_pt=3334&t_pn=CRO5462424%2f25K  These look like the OEM's.  Though they are CJ hinges since they have the extra mount.

Strange though, this hinge looks thinner.  http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Exterior-Parts-Accessories/Windshield-Hinge.aspx?t_c=3&t_s=470&t_pt=3334&t_pn=CROJ5462425


Title: Re: Replacing the Fuel Pump and Sender Unit.
Post by: Danny in Galveston on April 27, 2015, 02:40:32 PM
I did the 20 gallon mod on my 01 TJ about three years ago.  The write-up was very helpful.  So far no problem with the sending unit or pump.


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: grumpygy on May 01, 2015, 11:03:36 AM
I had my Frame Powder Coated.  Since my Jeep is red I went with red Wagon Red.  Matched just bout perfect.


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: sharpxmen on May 03, 2015, 05:04:36 PM
You aren't able to reuse your stock hinges?  I think it really depends on the brand.  Kenrol is usually cheap stuff.  I'm pretty sure Crown Auto. uses 16 gauge which is what the OEM panels are.  I'm not certain about Omix-Ada but they own a bunch of other companies and I think do have some 16 gauge stuff.  Those are the only two companies that I would trust with OEM parts since they grabbed all of the NOS and supply lines from Jeep.

Again though, with stock parts you're looking at the newest one being 17 years old.  Hinges were painted while on the vehicle so the backsides aren't protected.  Many rust so bad that they break when lowering the windshield.  Stock hinges are really thick though.  I just looked at Kenrol and Smittybilt and both are thin.  I'd go with Crown, http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Exterior-Parts-Accessories/Windshield-Hinge-Kit.aspx?t_c=3&t_s=470&t_pt=3334&t_pn=CRO5462424%2f25K  These look like the OEM's.  Though they are CJ hinges since they have the extra mount.

Strange though, this hinge looks thinner.  http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Exterior-Parts-Accessories/Windshield-Hinge.aspx?t_c=3&t_s=470&t_pt=3334&t_pn=CROJ5462425
my hinges are beat up, p/o took the hammer to one of them to try and get the bolts out, didn't work, so i'd like to get new ones while I'm at it. the frame is omix-ada and got all the gaskets either crown or omix as the cheapo one I got before (for under the frame) was really sucky.


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: Jeffy on May 06, 2015, 07:18:46 PM
I inspected the windshield hinges today.  Didn't find anything but there are some large holes where if water gets behind the hinges would leak into the frame.  The bolts were pretty easy to remove which was a huge plus for once.  Looks like if I was going to replace teh whole windshield frame, it would be fairly simple.  I did have one hinge stick to the frame and was a PITA to get loose.  I ended up taking the bracket off the backside and giving the frame a few wacks with the dead-blow hammer.

You can see Jeep paints the windshield frame once it's mounted.  That's the original black primer behind the hinges.  With the back plates off, you can feel inside the windshield frame.  With the side bolts removed you can see down the length of the windshield frame.

So I'm hoping to be able to look inside next time it's leaking.  I'm still not discounting it leaking from the cowl seal.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--CXKxBYirqk/VUrEOi99IEI/AAAAAAAA7hk/NI5oMjUuMjI/w500-no/IMG_6903.jpg)(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AYO10XbTdJg/VUrENeH2ZbI/AAAAAAAA7hY/-urSR8nMxfs/w500-no/IMG_6901.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-knXHIRIVvIo/VUrET6QA4tI/AAAAAAAA7iQ/Fe4yTQdR_4Y/w500-no/IMG_6912.jpg)(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cRErl_KlkKs/VUrEShxRDgI/AAAAAAAA7h8/qSmm3g0lOYs/w500-no/IMG_6907.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4uOZ2_gYsac/VUrESz9v3VI/AAAAAAAA7iA/gAuKRLpLJgE/w500-no/IMG_6908.jpg)


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: neale_rs on May 07, 2015, 10:29:19 AM
It looks like they do paint the frame under the back plates though.  It makes me wonder about the assembly/paint sequence.



Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: Jeffy on May 07, 2015, 01:48:00 PM
It looks like they do paint the frame under the back plates though.  It makes me wonder about the assembly/paint sequence.


Yeah, at least they do that but I think that's because it's a hinge so they need to make sure the back of the joint gets painted.  YJ's and CJ's are known to rust back there behind the hinge though.  I was a bit surprised to see no rust.


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: Jeffy on May 15, 2015, 08:32:02 PM
Well, there was another rain and while it didn't leak, I did see some signs of water.  When I removed the brackets that hold the windshield frame down, there was some moisture between them and the cowl seal.  Now, I'm not sure if it's a defect in the cowl seal or what but the seal has never sat right.  The bottom lip is supposed to sit flush against the body but doesn't.  It's about 1/2" away for some reason.  After some investigating, it seems the seal can easily be displaced with very little pressure. I was able to push the seal enough to where I could see inside.  When driving on the highway in rain, I'd get a steady stream of water dripping on the driver side.  It looks like it was pouring in from the seal under the wiper motor and from the hole where the wiper harness passes through.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TjtUk1XSKX8/VVaqRAhj2yI/AAAAAAAA7lY/rsAkYV9LOEY/w500-no/IMG_6940.jpg)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xv169lgIukM/VVaqRwf0w3I/AAAAAAAA7lU/d2H1tKyBbgM/w500-no/IMG_6942.jpg)

You can see the line where the seal actually contacts the body.  In places this was less then 1/8".  It's hard to see in the pic but if you look at where the pollen line is it gets close to the edge of the seal.  Keep in mind that the square edge of the seal doesn't sit flat.  It sits angled as it follows the angle of the windshield frame.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lRhTrqT3ZVc/VVaqVoQ7-LI/AAAAAAAA7mI/HCRiQdIoPn8/w500-no/IMG_6948.jpg)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zyRH7CM9me0/VVaqP10GPYI/AAAAAAAA7k8/GNa4wWnip98/w500-no/IMG_6937.jpg)

So, here's my fix.  I added a 1/4" D-shaped seal that I was using to seal the door.  I didn't have enough to run the full width so I had to improvise and use two.  I used some RTV to seal the two together.  With the seal in place, you can actually see it from under the cowl seal with the windshield seated.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ar4cEjAZLn8/VVaqS5itr4I/AAAAAAAA7lo/Ejf0wkj8Yd0/w500-no/IMG_6943.jpg)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sihk5944Zc4/VVaqakycj_I/AAAAAAAA7n8/-k-bRbfKrPs/w500-no/IMG_6961.jpg)

Yes, that's RTV on the cowl seam as well.   :wall:

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BXZKEZuacH4/VVaqZLFGiuI/AAAAAAAA7nM/3BXPlfw46sA/w500-no/IMG_6956.jpg)

It will be a while before I'm able to confirm if this did the trick but I think it's what's been leaking for a long time.  I should also mention, even though I had holes exposed in the windshield frame, not much water actually entered the frame.  I still need to patch those holes.  I'll probably end up using epoxy.


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: sharpxmen on May 15, 2015, 09:07:22 PM
I don't have that seal on the bottom side (tub side) only the one on the w/s frame, I wonder if that's partly to blame why mine is leaking (changed the main seal but still leaks). do you have a p/n for that one?

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sihk5944Zc4/VVaqakycj_I/AAAAAAAA7n8/-k-bRbfKrPs/w500-no/IMG_6961.jpg)



Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: Jeffy on May 16, 2015, 12:20:10 AM
The weatherstripping I'm using is from M-D Building Products.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HE7YQM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=WG3JTMMB3ZB8&coliid=I30D80OHAEUF44


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: Jeffy on May 16, 2015, 12:17:58 PM
I'm gonna try one more thing but it's going to be a PITA.  After thinking about it, the reason teh seal is sticking out at the bottom is because the windshield is sloped further then just inline with the tub.  This causes the top to sit a little further back and allows my doors to close without hitting the top.  You can sorta see where this is going.  I think I'm going to try and see if I can set the windshield frame so it's more inline with the tub which means it will move my top forward and I'll have to adjust the doors.  The doors are a PITA to set up.  If you look at the windshield hinge pics you can see the nuts are plates that actually float around in the 1/2" holes.  This allows you to adjust how far up and down you set the frame also in doing so the cowl seal.

I've also got to deal with a stripped torx bolt on the door hinge.  Hopefully I can fix that without too much trouble.  Thie whole thing's a lot of trouble though.  If I was running a soft top I'd only have to set the frame angle and maybe the fraim height.  Everything else could get sucked up by the tension of the soft top.


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: Jeffy on May 16, 2015, 08:33:53 PM
Okay, I spent the day futzing with the top.  Turns out unlike the TJ, which has the windshield frame and body parallel, the YJ has them at two different angles.  The tub is at about 19* while the windshield frame is around 22*.  I got 22* from the angle of the front edge of the door.

This is with the windshield frame parallel to the tub angle.  You can see the huge gap it leaves between the door frame.  Also, there's a big gap at the bottom where the cowl seal isn't even seated.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QIgCDCPe1Bk/VVgAG-vEOyI/AAAAAAAA7pM/IEmlluP1Knk/h600-no/IMG_6969.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Zy4cQgS9d9w/VVgAI_Qgi1I/AAAAAAAA7pw/jHB9jAcbBSI/h600-no/IMG_6973.jpg)

Here's with the windshield frame set to about 22* to match the door frames.  The cowl seal is fully seated and doesn't stick out nearly as far as it once did.  The top of the cowl seal is RTV'ed to the bottom of the windshield frame so there's no chance it will leak from there.  I left the weatherstripping that I had installed yesterday since it was squished flat and sealing.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KtTgpECLxtU/VVgAKPoWYcI/AAAAAAAA7qE/rbqddFmDVQs/h600-no/IMG_6976.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rr7yVmfLAAg/VVgAPIZZ9kI/AAAAAAAA7rg/4_YT83I5-o0/h600-no/IMG_6990.jpg)

The gap between the windshield frame and door is now even all the way up.  It's really easy to notice the difference be looking at the VIN plate.  The gap between the plate and dash pad is much larger.  Like I mentioned before, with a soft top it doesn't really matter what angle the frame is since the soft top will tension properly either way.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xcrwJnXwKU8/VVgAQNLIntI/AAAAAAAA7sg/aqytSX4hNyk/h600-no/IMG_6993.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QjCtiaflHVg/VVgAP7c0pNI/AAAAAAAA7r4/fUw8QbXbWzw/h600-no/IMG_6992.jpg)

With the windshield frame set further forward, the back of the top now sits flush with the body.  The only downside to this is that the lift gate sit flush against top.  I don't think this will be a problem but I'll have to check and see if it leaks any.

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LqNQwQh8EkU/VVgARMTSc0I/AAAAAAAA7sE/wfgmRVd6Jr0/h600-no/IMG_6995.jpg)(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4saiEBombpU/VVgASSH497I/AAAAAAAA7sY/aQ0YQNIUIPE/h600-no/IMG_6998.jpg)

The other problem I have is that the door seals are really old., circa 1995.  The door seal is squished flat so it sticks out past the windshield frame.  Now with the door gap reduced to about 1/8", it hits the top then rubs till the door seats closed.  This will wear out the seal as it's already done this once before and I fixed the hole with some RTV patch work.  I think I'll end up getting a complete door seal set.  At least that's cheaper and less work then buying a windshield frame and glass.

I should mention that setting the doors can be a PITA with full doors as they are awkward and heavy.  I usually close the door then loosen the hinges. The door will drop when all the bolts are loosened.  Don't remove them as you'll need to tighten them as you're wrestling with the door.  I lower the window then push up on the frame.  Then try to tighten the bolts enough so it holds it's own weight.  You'll need to open the door and see where the catch is.  You want to try to center is as well as you can.

If you're lucky enough to have a Jeep that came with a hard top and full doors then you shouldn't have had to do any of this.  For those of us who bought doors second had, you'll find once you loosen the hinges, you'll expose bare metal.  The doors were painted with the hinges installed.  I haven't bothered to paint mine since I live in dry California.  If I was going to paint them, I'd take teh hinges off completely then paint them so you don't have to worry about rust back there.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kBD2Kb6ptMo/VVgAMICc5iI/AAAAAAAA7qg/_IQl-Xshdzw/w923-h692-no/IMG_6983.jpg)


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: sharpxmen on May 18, 2015, 11:02:05 PM
The weatherstripping I'm using is from M-D Building Products.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HE7YQM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=WG3JTMMB3ZB8&coliid=I30D80OHAEUF44

so that's something you added and not stock?


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: neale_rs on May 19, 2015, 08:33:58 AM
Yeah, adjusting the doors is not easy.  I did it once and it helped a lot to have lots of small 5/16 inch  rectangles of metal to use as shims between the door and tub to hold up the door before tightening the bolts.  It was not a simple process but somehow it ended up good enough.


Title: Re: Rust, the never ending battle...
Post by: Jeffy on May 19, 2015, 11:35:52 AM
so that's something you added and not stock?
No, it's not stock.  But the whole seal arrangement for the cowl is silly.  That's why they got rid of the giant foam seal on the TJ.  With the windshield frame at the new angle, I'm not sure if it's all that necessary but then again, when driving down the highway with 20-30 mph gusts, I don't really want to chance it again.  I was getting a steady flow of water pouring down the side of the dash while driving.


Title: Well, that didn't go as planned...
Post by: Jeffy on September 15, 2015, 05:53:09 PM
So yesterday, I decided that I wanted to work on my Jeep.  I wanted to remove the 1" JKS Budget mounts I have.  There's really no reason for having them anymore.  I've got a CV Driveshaft and an electric fan.  To do that though, I ended up taking my OBA off.  Well, I soon discovered that the OBA and broken it's support bracket AGAIN and had managed to flex enough to cause the A/C bolt which sandwiches the OBA bracket broke.  This also allowed the OBA bracket to flex and it broke the cast aluminum tab off the AC/Alternator bracket.  Yeah, not good...  Judging by the corrosion, it's been cracked for a while now.  Luckily the piece fell under the AC unit and was trapped so I still have it.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nl0URlwwbkM/Vfiya-o5ORI/AAAAAAAA-0k/vh1N54sHTgo/s800-Ic42/IMG_7718.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Baq3_KcXCHo/Vfiyb05ZzCI/AAAAAAAA-xs/sJlThhY5eqw/s800-Ic42/IMG_7719.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Nz5Rag1Jx3I/VfiydjeJAFI/AAAAAAAA-zo/u8I14Oxe1-g/s800-Ic42/IMG_7721.jpg)

So, here's what the JKS Budget book looks like after it's been in in the Jeep for several years.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V_lpGFSSyPI/VfiyeKOWS1I/AAAAAAAA-1Q/rOaWe3RaWpE/s800-Ic42/IMG_7724.jpg)

I ended up having to buy new bolts for the stock mount since I don't know where the stock bolts got to.  They're 1.50" pitch for those wondering.  For those that don't know I ended up drilling out the stud on that spacer bracket and running a bolt through it.  This allowed me to use the JKS Budget Boost kit.  Nothing exciting with the stock mounts though.  To get to the bolts, I had to remove the alternator while means taking the serpentine belt,  aka PITA.  Gotta loosen the PS pump to get the tention off the belt.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-flCN23XKkk8/VfiyfgT9EYI/AAAAAAAA-yc/fRHKlt69wvY/s800-Ic42/IMG_7727.jpg)

So, since the alternator was off and the belt removed, I decided to go ahead and swap in the new PD FireWire set I bought earlier in the year.  I just love the setup.  I R&D'd the setup before they went into production.  It's really simple and clean.  After 10 years, there was some noticeable erosion on the contacts.  Went with red this time since it's the color of the OEM wires.  I originally had yellow but they get dirty quick and look crappy.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9VE4kvBEn1o/VfiyhbepQiI/AAAAAAAA-zc/e1GFspAslk4/s800-Ic42/IMG_7732.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ylAws3CBmbc/VfiyiXVzJMI/AAAAAAAA-zg/DCXKlVff3YE/s800-Ic42/IMG_7734.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K0W9jTbR37A/VfiyiKLPGwI/AAAAAAAA-zM/u4QuMdIKg-g/s800-Ic42/IMG_7733.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ADYm4i4BQ3g/Vfiykwr4xrI/AAAAAAAA-z0/w6RYPxSMlkY/s800-Ic42/IMG_7738.jpg)


Title: Re: Well, that didn't go as planned...
Post by: neale_rs on September 17, 2015, 07:03:14 AM
The wires look good.   Are you going to get a new bracket?


Title: Re: Well, that didn't go as planned...
Post by: Jeffy on September 17, 2015, 12:37:45 PM
Currently, it's bolted back together with the broken bracket.  The brackets are scarce and some people think they're made of gold.  I think they're made of paper mache.  It's been like that for a while and is stable so I'm juet running with it till I come across a new bracket or if some other solution comes up.


Title: Re: Well, that didn't go as planned...
Post by: Jeffy on September 20, 2015, 06:20:10 PM
Well, drive the Jeep around and it felt better until, one or two cylinders dropped.  The 2.5L will run on two cylinders.  With one cylinder down, you don't even really notice the change in idle until you try to drive.  Two cylinders cause the idle to get really rough though.  That's why I think two cylinders weren't firing.  Also, I get two Code 27's which are for fuel Injectors.  So it look like I'll be changing out my injectors yet again.  I'm going to test them with a multi-meter to see what's up.  It's annoying though.  If I rev the engine, it usually clears up the issue for a while.

I haven't decided if I'll run the stock Denso's for a while or wait for new Bosch.  I did notice that there are 'new' bosch that are supposed to be better then the Gen III's.  They're black and the same price as the Gen III's.  I'm not sure how much better they can actually be though.  I think I'll be getting new injectors this time though.  The takeouts lasted me several years.

I forget my fuel pressure off the top of my head (I think it's 44psi)but if I put the stock injectors in they should be around 19.6#, if I do put them back in.


Title: Re: Well, that didn't go as planned...
Post by: Jeffy on September 21, 2015, 07:38:31 PM
So I ended up ordering these. - http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/bosch-0280155884-jeep-4.0-2.5-chief-pioneer-laredo so hopefully, I won't have to deal with changing out my injectors ever few years. All of my other sets were take outs with unknown mileage.  They seam to be the same spec as the Bosch yellow's but are black instead.

FUEL INJECTOR SPECIFICATIONS:
Flow Rate: 19 lbs/hr at 43.5 PSI, 197 cc/min at 3 BAR
Coil Resistance: 14.5 OHMS
Fuel Nozzle: 4-Hole, wide cone fuel pattern
All brand new Viton 14.5 mm o-rings


Title: Re: Well, that didn't go as planned...
Post by: neale_rs on September 22, 2015, 08:17:30 AM
It's good to only have to buy 4!   


Title: Re: Well, that didn't go as planned...
Post by: Jeffy on September 22, 2015, 12:09:58 PM
It's good to only have to buy 4!   
Yeah, but I was buying 8 for much less.  Still, I was replacing them fairly quickly.  I'm hoping to get maybe the life of the engine out of these/  I'm sure the cars the 19# were taken out of hat probably 60-100K miles on them.  If you clean them up no one could really tell.


Title: Re: Well, that didn't go as planned...
Post by: Jeffy on September 24, 2015, 12:25:37 PM
Since I removed the 1" MML earlier, I noticed some vibrations in the driveline.  So I took some measurements and my pinion is at around 11* and the shaft is at 19*.  I also measured the pinion degree shim and it measured out to 5.3* for some reason.  I ended up buying new 8* steel shims and 5/16" bolts from Rubicon express to replace them.  I think that should get me within a degree or two of lining up.  The only PITA part is having to take the centering pin out of the leafs.

Then the nect job is to either remove the body lift or replace the door seals.  Since I readjusted the top and removed all of the additional seals I added over the years, the doors will whistle under heavy wind.  I bought a complete seat set from Qtech.  It was from a company I've never heard of, Fairchild.  Their set was cheaper then the Qtech kit as well as the Crown and Omix Ada.  Not only that, it was more complete.  So far the only part of the kit I've used is the cover seal for the windshield.  I never realized that the seal was supposed to be flexible.  It's so much easier to install.  The only down side I found is that the new seal is slightly narrower then the old one.  This isn't really a problem unless your frame is rusty.  I cleaned up all of the rust and made use to put a good later of paint in there.  They always seem to rust on the outer edge of the channel.  I'm a bit hesitant to taking the seals off the doors though.  Some of them look to be a bit of a PITA.  Though most of them have dry rotted and are severely cracked.

I'm also thinking about painting the doors OD green.  It's not a perfect match to the Sage Green but when it fades it blends in nicely and isn't Forrest Green.  From 10ft, you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference.  Since I'm probably going to replace all of the seals, I'll have teh doors 80% disassembled anyway.


Title: Re: Well, that didn't go as planned...
Post by: Jeffy on September 28, 2015, 05:50:54 PM
Did some more maintenance on the Jeep.  So far the injectors are working fine.  No weird idle issues or error codes.  Seems the vibration I was feeling was the engine not running on all cylinders.  I'm till going to replace the axle shims but after I get some other things fixed.  Spend the day removing and measuring all of the body bolts.  Well, all of them on one side.  The front bolt under the grill was badly eroded.  I suggest everyone check them after 10 years or so.  This is why the bolts snap if you use an impact wrench on them.  All of the square 'nuts' were fine.  They float around in their slots.  This is the other problem area if you have a lot or rust.  The square nut is floating and stops turning after 1/8 turn or it should.

I remember when I installed the body lift and all of the OEM boles had about 1/8"-1/4" eroded from them.  All of the bolt bolt's looked good.  I'm not sure if I replaced the front bolt with a new bolt or reused one.

For those wondering you'll two different bolts, at least for a YJ.  The bolt under the grill as well as the two bolts under the rear and infront of the gas tank are 7/16" while the rest are 1/2".
 
5 - 7/16"-14x2.5"
6 - 1/2"-13"x3.5"

This will be the first time since 1992 that my shifter has been the length it left the factory though the floor.

I PS'd an inch out of the body.  I can see the difference but I also know what to look for.  Otherwise, it doesn't look that much different.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bRDTQCvQ_AE/Vgw4OSVW-FI/AAAAAAABAH8/VtCfDomJd9o/s720-Ic42/IMG_4414.png)


Title: Re: Well, that didn't go as planned...
Post by: Jeffy on September 29, 2015, 11:09:18 PM
Well, I got it all done.  The only hard part was getting to the torx that hold the small bushings under the grill.  Had to remove one of the steering box bolts so I could get the torx screwdriver up there.  Other then that all of the bolts came out easy and they looked okay.  The only rust was with the front bolt and metal sleeve.  The bolts were nickel but I got zinc this time.

Next on the list is to take replace the door seals.  I think I might just keep the doors Forest Green.  Summer's coming to an end and soon it will be rainy season.  I want to replace the seal that goes around the door as well as the outer scraper's.  That's the main problem.  I don't really want to have to remove the glass to get to all of the other seals like the track.

Oh and it's rained twice since I fixed the cowl seal and the Jeep doesn't leak anymore.  So, it's safe to say, that was the problem.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C5cvadM71IM/Vgs9urL1b0I/AAAAAAABAGI/f_ZIYO6FauY/s720-Ic42/IMG_7853.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: neale_rs on September 30, 2015, 07:36:41 AM
Sounds good, but for some reason, I can't see the pictures.


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: sharpxmen on September 30, 2015, 08:41:03 AM
Sounds good, but for some reason, I can't see the pictures.
same here


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on September 30, 2015, 12:02:58 PM
Sounds good, but for some reason, I can't see the pictures.
How's that?


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: neale_rs on September 30, 2015, 04:31:05 PM
How's that?

Now it works. I like the moving picture.    On my Yj the 33s do hit the bottom rear part of the rear fenders.  They have gotten bent but it is well hidden by the plastic flares.



Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on September 30, 2015, 04:41:58 PM
Now it works. I like the moving picture.    On my Yj the 33s do hit the bottom rear part of the rear fenders.  They have gotten bent but it is well hidden by the plastic flares.


That's common for YJ's. I used to have that happen with my 35's.  It's not really a big deal though.  You can trim that portion off and not have it noticeable.


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on October 01, 2015, 08:28:11 PM
So this started to happen...

Finally got around to replacing all of the door seals.  After decades of aging, the original seals were stiff and crumbling.  I was at first just going to replace what needed replacing and leave the rest.  Then while taking the doors apart, I found it would be be easier if I removed some other thing.  Well that continued to happen till all that was left was the shell of the door and the crank mechanism.   :uhoh:

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DrrQF0YhFb8/Vg31Q9UM_LI/AAAAAAABAJs/SdbKo-ACe1M/s576-Ic42/IMG_7855.jpg)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Pf-pncagDcY/Vg31Q5r1Y8I/AAAAAAABAJs/LvO8178_8uM/s576-Ic42/IMG_7858.jpg)

Here's the good.  I was able to get all of the seals to work even though some were a few millimeters too big.  The biggest problem was with the track that goes on the wing window.  The new track is a few mm's too wide but I'm guessing this is done to account for any shrinkage over time.  The biggest difference is how soft the rubber is compared to the old stuff.  Getting it into the channel was a PITA but it worked out.

The hardest part of the whole ordeal was getting everything back together in the right order so it all goes back together.  Otherwise, things jam up.  Since I had everything out I figured I might as well paint the doors so they match better.  I've had these Forrest Green doors since 2003 and never bothered to paint them.  I think the Krylon OD green matches a lot better.  When it ages, it will blend in even more.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GzYNcftR1Y4/Vg31Q1f2uLI/AAAAAAABAJs/jkk23sEdNWg/s720-Ic42/IMG_7859.jpg)

I've now become an expert taking the doors apart since I had to do it over and over because of clearance issues and changing my mind about using all of the new stuff mid-project.  The hardest part is probably trying to get the wing window back in with the glass in the door.  I ended up unbolting the glass from the crank so it's able to move a little.  If you're going to replace the track, do it before putting the wing window back in otherwie, it all has to come back out again.  Also decide if you want to replace the track on the wing window before you put it all back in.  Again, I didn't until everything was back in.  Overall, it's not hard you jsut need to know the tricks to get it all in once the tracks are in place.  There really isn't much room otherwise.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cFQuGbnROew/Vg31Q41TE7I/AAAAAAABAJs/yJ7QZz8_rkA/s720-Ic42/IMG_7862.jpg)

Taking out the lock and handle are a cinch once everything else is out of the way.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jFnEPsO484U/Vg31Q-K48HI/AAAAAAABAJs/7eJLPt3zQF8/s576-Ic42/IMG_7863.jpg)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b0yaIws_7jM/Vg31Q00sXBI/AAAAAAABAJs/zRN6CQauxbU/s576-Ic42/IMG_7856.jpg)

You can see how rotted out the old seals were.  I had RTV holding them together.

The only problem I have is with the door seal.  It still rubs the hard top and pinches it.  I'm probably going to try to move the top back a little more to give the door more then a 1/8" clearance.  The Jee was never designed for that tight of a clearance anyway.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0BQxjg5Zx44/Vg31QzmrOMI/AAAAAAABAJs/_G7qi-jo2jk/s720-Ic42/IMG_7864.jpg)

I didn't bother to paint the inside of the door since it really doesn't need to match anything anyway.  I still have to go buy some more paint so I can start the other door.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t0p136QQ76k/Vg31Q3y1kSI/AAAAAAABAJs/92n9mbtrVKE/s720-Ic42/IMG_7866.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: neale_rs on October 02, 2015, 10:22:54 AM
Looks good.   I replaced the door perimeter seals but the outer window "lip" seals are in really bad shape...should replace them at some point.


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on October 04, 2015, 08:30:48 PM
Got around to doing the other door.  Still took a few hours to do though I'm not an expert at replace the door tracks and seals.  I need to brush them off and get the matte dust off.  Though I'm not in a hurry.  I also had to readjust the hard top again.  The gap between the top and the door was too tight and the seal was catching then getting stuffed into the jamb.  Getting the top adjusted is a PITA.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6B_thH6F86w/VhHrfF4kOMI/AAAAAAABAKY/JEJC-E2piDk/s720-Ic42/IMG_7874.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lMcJRB4Uxls/VhHrgh2Ri4I/AAAAAAABAK0/yUVPFuCUGhQ/s720-Ic42/IMG_7885.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: sharpxmen on October 14, 2015, 01:30:19 AM
is that like a camo paint?


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on October 14, 2015, 02:04:47 PM
is that like a camo paint?
Yup, Ultra-Flat Krylon

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VMuZuZaN2O4/VgXSqhwMjeI/AAAAAAABACE/HKxvMHbPSM0/s800-Ic42/IMG_7764.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: sharpxmen on October 16, 2015, 02:53:31 PM
you should paint the hood also and put a big ass star (flat tan color) on it.


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on October 16, 2015, 07:24:18 PM
you should paint the hood also and put a big ass star (flat tan color) on it.
A star would have ot be white to be correct.  The hood is Sage green which is the original color of the Jeep.  The only reason I painted the doors was that they were Forest Green.  They match a lot better now that they're OD green.  The patchyness is caused by the spray particles that don't adhere to the door.  You can brush the paint dust right off.

So, after I removed the JKS MML that screwed up my driveshaft angles.  On a recent trip I was able to feel vibrations from it.  Basically, when accelerating and under steady throttle, the pinion rotates up a few degrees which was fine.  But if I lugged the engine, the torque wouldn't rotate the pinion so the angle became 4* down.  I swapped my old 6* Trail Master aluminum shims for 8* Rubicon Express steel shims.  This required taking the center pin out and putting bolting the shim to the spring pack.  I ended up getting the Rubicon Express 5/16" bolts and using them.  I ran into a problem though.  The spring pack isn't flat at the shim and it took some extra work to get the leafs to flatten out enough.  As I was tightening one of the bolts, I felt it let go.  This was with a ratchet box wrench so there wan't that much torque.  Instead if packing up, I ended up using the leafs center bolt with the spacer they add removed.  It's not super tall but it's tall enough and the bolt was the right length.  The other side worked better since I kinda knew what I was doing that time.  I don't think the bolts are worth the cost.  I probably should have bought some grade 8 Allen head bolts like everyone does.


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V3SBInKhb9U/ViGuzqM9PGI/AAAAAAABAME/QHz5J3zCujo/s800-Ic42/IMG_7908.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1vfwk_Uipi0/ViGuzoofUcI/AAAAAAABAMI/Q59H4niSVw0/s800-Ic42/IMG_7909.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RbAWOXJ_Mac/ViGuzR2By0I/AAAAAAABAL8/Yfg3WJ6RqtQ/s800-Ic42/IMG_7910.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9QjbsO-S_60/ViGu0TsztLI/AAAAAAABAMM/l9SnL9ZjfQk/s800-Ic42/IMG_7913.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on October 24, 2015, 07:47:32 PM
Been getting a lot of front end clatter.  Turns out it's my disconnects.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UIgAAaZu_Y0/VixBjcKh5iI/AAAAAAABANo/mSPC-OkFWGE/s800-Ic42/IMG_7942.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bJZhn2xEbtY/VixBja8N6RI/AAAAAAABANk/OdJ2cJ21EHI/s800-Ic42/IMG_7943.jpg)

The ends look alright but the center sleeve is pretty loose.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JEBPEY9PzsQ/VixBljAqcsI/AAAAAAABAOY/C81hdG9VLsA/s640-Ic42/IMG_7950.jpg)

I wonder if Rubicon Express will warranty them.  If not I can either get new centers for $24 or I can get the new Gen 2 JKS's...


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on March 16, 2016, 11:07:37 PM
Ugh, this is getting tiring.  So we've been getting torrential downpours and the Jeep is leaking again!  Everytime I think I got it, it seems to come back the next year.  I've resorted to taking apart my dash piece by piece to see if I can spot the areas where it's leaking from.  I've got an idea but nothing is 100%.

So now I'm driving around like this:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2u3pqVAX-WQ/Vui9-2HVpaI/AAAAAAABCDg/i34rrqFNZ603j8IzSVg-jM5mTb7pIZVogCCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_8730.JPG)

I also ended up replacing the cowl seal that I replaced a few years ago since I had one from when I bought a complete seal kit last year.  This time I RTV'ed it to the bottom of the windshield frame.  I also put a small amount of RTV on the body of the Jeep where the seat contacts it so it should be sealed.  It's not like I'm lowering the windshield for anything other then fixing the leaks anyway.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xRp8kb6dAi0/Vui9-8Ty-oI/AAAAAAABCDg/HzowCngkxt4z-s51AagMdjMKNh7INYyuQCCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_8724.JPG)

Here's the bottom edge of the windshield frame where the seal sorta clips onto.  There's some old RTV there.  I made sure to put some RTV in the screw holes as well.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-elMk50r6nKU/Vui9-w84okI/AAAAAAABCDg/Sl3LxDgmbMUS-V4CjoLfisKwFqPvjuCEQCCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_8727.JPG)

There's another storm coming next week so I'll get a better idea of I fixed it.  If it still leaks it's not from where I thought it was coming from.


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: jfrabat on March 17, 2016, 06:04:38 AM
wait a second; so it's NOT supposed to leak?  After all these years, I thought leaking was just a feature...   :wall:


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: neale_rs on March 17, 2016, 10:26:26 AM
Good luck.  I though I had solved my YJ's leak after sealing the wing window but then it leaked again...


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on March 17, 2016, 12:10:20 PM
I could see the water running down the side of the body kinda where all the sealer is.  When it rains hard I get water coming form the back corner of the plastic dash and spills over the speaker grill.  I think it's leaking from the cowl seal and is spilling out where the wiper motor cord comes out from under the seal.  Where I pack the Jeep it's usually has a slight incline on the passenger side so water should run to the driver side.  I'm also guessing water under the cowl seal is either coming down the hole where the wiper cable goes or it's seeping in from the edge of the metal instrument panel.  I noticed a gap there that didn't seem to have much silicone from when I installed it many moons ago.  The other problem I see is that all the screws for the instrument panel cause the top of the instrument panel to be pulled down so there's these low spots kinda near where the seal is touching the body.  I put some RTV on the leading edge where those divots are to ytry to seal them off.    Right now I'm getting about a cup or more of water when it rains hard over night.  If I could get it to a shot glass worth or less I'd be happy.  All the moisture causes condensation and then mold in the Jeep and it smells aweful.


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: jfrabat on March 17, 2016, 04:03:22 PM
You have hard doors, right?  I found in mine (among the many places that water goes in) that some water gets in from the top of the door, where the hard top meets the windshield.  I have yet to be able to seal this leak, though.  I already bought some weather strips to try and seal it (along with the adhesive).  Hopefully, this will stop the leaks.  But I am not to positive that it will, as the darn thing is ALWAYS leaking!


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on March 17, 2016, 04:16:15 PM
You have hard doors, right?  I found in mine (among the many places that water goes in) that some water gets in from the top of the door, where the hard top meets the windshield.  I have yet to be able to seal this leak, though.  I already bought some weather strips to try and seal it (along with the adhesive).  Hopefully, this will stop the leaks.  But I am not to positive that it will, as the darn thing is ALWAYS leaking!
On an OEM top there's actually a big rubber seal in the top corner.  The only other place would be where the cowl seal meets to door seal in the door jam.  I've got brand new door seals though.  I don't think I mentioned it here but I took my doors completely apart and put new seals in everywhere.


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: stan98tj on March 18, 2016, 09:32:00 PM
You still got carpet in there? I would just pull the carpet, bedline the interior and pull the plugs out. Works for me  :weee:


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on March 18, 2016, 11:58:32 PM
You still got carpet in there? I would just pull the carpet, bedline the interior and pull the plugs out. Works for me  :weee:
Kinda cold when you're daily driving it and you have a water fall coming down on your legs.


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: stan98tj on March 20, 2016, 01:25:59 AM
Oh, I didn't realize it would actively leak while driving. Figured it would just puddle up when the vehicle wasn't moving.


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on March 20, 2016, 09:22:28 AM
Been having some other issues after I removed my 1.25"JKS body lift.  I couldn't tell if it was my rear axle, driveshaft, exhaust or something else.  Luckily, I was able too take my cat-back off and flip it over so the output points down directly after the muffler, removing the back pipe all together.  Turns out my exhaust was making all the noise.  The other thing I noticed was how much easier the engine spools up and I've probably got a bit more torque in the sweet spot of the power band as well.  The downside is I'll more then likely readjust the exhaust so it's not hitting anything.  I did notice that Magnaflow sells a cat-back for around $350 that ends right after the muffler.  Very tempting though I probably won't do it.  Oh and the exhaust note is a lot louder wince it's echoing off the pavement back up towards the floor.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ri91RSmvraTg41PUvRjQBx7tqfjq5gQZqdWrqUmPnaGg1oRb6BM6Uu1euuPWnkc1c_21pVlMVbyf2y-FuEWM3NjGc7DwUGsuZ532fE_5xZf0mt73Xy6iamuM2_6z3qz3We2hHBvFSSLJlbyYBF5iuZW5zZr3GMgo9vWC7J0X5d4PyXAi8v6O6yN-_3rpfrDxEcGio6pVtioe--WDKkv52rb4-12LsRwNqj1xGqQQe9DSXdLwFbVKie5ovOyszZpRX8d3fMAtZiXEklEQvIRd6ZqF9n4RkBaOe1W-Bo6pAYe7VwRnug_80hLse849eoO8BSAq0LHO6fLIAyttEV3sfyOT83HCXecTedH4btYnF5EDgZIrSstm3T3JpsJPczhsvBWwQnKl7hi9_O8nSi0I7PewGqOcq4xWyEuYLjFR2G3NPc0vWcpFqp8_tRcQ98RQfzVy0bKFLGyj2auUoxpwKB-cNvF-ndvYLSSD1IlTeGtBwUNuYwWBnWTZrVJ2LZ2gXtWwnl2b7pE1MlBdC8Ohx573614tvsLpnfjmgTd2GQyZTLCcRTGn8HvtaABeMvsbZrnklQ=w1195-h896-no)


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: stan98tj on March 21, 2016, 09:01:40 PM
Don't dump the exhaust right after the muffler. I cut mine that way and hate it because of the echo off the pavement


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on March 21, 2016, 09:55:02 PM
Don't dump the exhaust right after the muffler. I cut mine that way and hate it because of the echo off the pavement
Well, I was using it to diagnose another issue.  Like I said, I'll probably go back but it was really interesting.  Maybe aim it put the side more.  I really like how it changed the torque band though.

I've got to rehang the cat and get the muffler to hang further down.  Currently the muffler hangs so high up that it's hitting the metal hanger bracket and not hanging off teh rubber bushings like it's supposed to.

In other news, the Jeep still leaks.  Well, some of the leaks are gone and because I'm able to look up behind the dash, I can see what's not wet.  You can see a puddle on the horizontal bracket behind the white and black wires.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m16jh9QLFFI/VvDPeVCUAzI/AAAAAAABCVM/DaoNxuq5OsssOmYCyIF5-mj2sUbRR9ByQCCo/s1152-Ic42/IMG_8750.jpg)
The leak is against the side of the body and is dripping from above.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bH4eKzZGsoU/VvDPeWawkwI/AAAAAAABCVM/rREkbp6f_9EARXFd9G9OWQfIRaTujxDagCCo/s1152-Ic42/IMG_8755.jpg)
Here's where the windshield hinge bolts to the body.  You can see they sprayed a lot of body sealer and I'm sure they knew it might leak from there.  They apparently didn't put enough.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Xr0gEoKWsYI/VvDPeSJs82I/AAAAAAABCVM/HHMkOU-0bqQAPloOiULsD1r7WRUg0EUVACCo/s1152-Ic42/IMG_8758.jpg)
This is outside, where the hinge bolts to the body.  You can see they use seam sealer on the outside as well.  After 24 years, it's dried and shrank so I'm thinking it's leaking in here.  P put some duct tape across the area to see if I get any more water inside when it rains again.  We'll see if it works.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xTy5VYtJldY/VvDPeQYcrvI/AAAAAAABCVM/Zd_uzCN8bawVe6WPvVTtRGa2173-g8H3ACCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_8759.jpg)


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: dwtaylorpdx on March 25, 2016, 10:47:31 AM
Hey there, been a while, but a suggestion.  When it comes to sealing the body,,, throw all the RTV in the garbage ...
Polyurathane Is what the OEM's use, its way tougher, lasts way longer and it sticks,, I mean STICKS you'll be wearing it for a couple weeks... :D I use disposable gloves and my fingers to push it in to grooves etc. Its the stuff they glue windshields in with, you can buy it in many good hardware stores, comes in white/clear/black, does not stay shiny. Takes about 2 days to dry.COmes in caulking gun tubes. about 7 bucks a tube typically. I use the 3M brand as my first choice, Loctite as my second.

My 94 has no leaks and funny thing,,, I have the original windshield to cowl gasket..

Good luck chasing the water!

Dave


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on March 25, 2016, 10:55:40 AM
Hey there, been a while, but a suggestion.  When it comes to sealing the body,,, throw all the RTV in the garbage ...
Polyurathane Is what the OEM's use, its way tougher, lasts way longer and it sticks,, I mean STICKS you'll be wearing it for a couple weeks... :D I use disposable gloves and my fingers to push it in to grooves etc. Its the stuff they glue windshields in with, you can buy it in many good hardware stores, comes in white/clear/black, does not stay shiny. Takes about 2 days to dry.COmes in caulking gun tubes. about 7 bucks a tube typically. I use the 3M brand as my first choice, Loctite as my second.

My 94 has no leaks and funny thing,,, I have the original windshield to cowl gasket..

Good luck chasing the water!

Dave

Well, the thing is I don't want it to be permanent.  I'd like to be able to lower my windshield without tearing the seal up.  I've even thought about going to a silicone calk since it's more rubbery and can be pulled off easily.  You don't seem much more then a thin film to seal out water.


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on April 03, 2016, 12:13:56 PM
Was finally able to drive the Jeep around and I think the exhaust is finally fixed.  No move noises.  I ended up cutting about 1/4" off the end of the mufflers output pipe which points up.  This made it possible to bring the tailpipe down and forward so it's not touching the floor or the rear cross member.

Now I have to figure out where the leak is.  The rain season is almost over but I want ti fixed.  Them maybe I can take it all apart and then put my dash back together.


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on June 11, 2016, 06:51:24 PM
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gn-1s0Rev0M/V1y1CdeVFPI/AAAAAAABEhc/U98SguEpDO4kYhZwm0z1eutqCe7sCFdiwCCo/s800/IMG_9011.jpg)

It's that time of the year again.  I always dread the bi-yearly emissions tests since you never know with an older vehicle when something is going to go wrong and that CEL will appear.  Although, last year I replaced a lot of the basics and the engine has been running really strong since.  It's still a time to worry though.  They will fail you for the dumbest thing these days.  The Jeep failed a bout 3 years ago, not because it was a gross polluter but because a rubber fitting was cracked.  It still passed the sniffer test but it didn't pass the visual.  That's one og my biggest issues with the emissions tests.  As long as you're not polluting, why should it matter what engine modifications have been done?  The actual answer is of course money.  To be legal in California mfg's of parts need to have them tested and they pass if without a doubt they don't cause higher emissions and of course they pay the state for the certification.  It's an extortion racket.

My other complaint with the state is with the actual fees charged by the stations.  It's completely up to each owner how much they want to charge.  Before the state would set a price.  At the time I think it was around $19.  Okay, the state made a deal with owners so the owners would buy the equipment instead of the state helping them.  If you have a car less then 1999 then you can find places charging around $39.  If you have a SUV, they charge more.  If you have a car older then 1999 then they charge more.  If you own a SUV that is older then 1999, then you can easily be paying $150.  The certificate has a set price of $8.25.  Some charge for the phone call the computer makes to upload the certificate, too.  Older vehicles have to do what's called an EVAP test where they pressurize your gas tank with NOx and test for leaks.

So, what's the best way to get the lowest price.  Yelp or Craigslist.  Yelp is better since a negative post has more weight.  With a few email, the highest price was around $83 and the lowest was $68.  Still seems crazy high for what amounts to about 10 minutes of work.  by work, they look under the hood to make sure it's all kosher.  Law on the ground to check the cats.  Tun the vehicle on the dyno at 15 and 25 mph.  Then if it's older the 1999, they test the gas cap and pressurize the gas tank with the evap. canister clamped off.

Oh yeah, it passed.

https://www.youtube.com/v/q6CdaPZlCpc


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: stan98tj on November 06, 2016, 04:54:12 PM
I've had my jeep fall into a rough idle and stall out seconds after the emissions guy finished the test and unplugged his sensor. He said i was lucky he had finished, had it occurred while he was testing i would have failed.


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on November 06, 2016, 08:07:45 PM
Parked next to this Bro--Jeep the other day. I don't think it's ever been off-road.(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JLnLB8-l1LGd1YNx3ji3MdKKk-roRuOZ6Rnlvzs2Awh0TPL64A--680Ucb5ctkQPJI-4orI4o5oHNxrhrL7_l-2IxZN-qpRyQsv4DgNVRqkE_CBymw0nsj2OYHTk_VrA6PSL1CaHfiBksnjVUcQH_lkc61MTpgdfGalexusTC3wUtPiJF56PMAj2te133mBm6NLoidGFjS_jRu48MoFXydZukcHNXD5feqnI-aX-COocw5sA-YGHL8Hpa2SRa-55S_0zfthESyuI7OXJ2G4K1KpVKehX5zrTvu5o0_Z5EX7HmnD0fNEO5AHq9eT-ZPQ0zPX3okud3u3rfur-eB5jBYxkZf0MY7bkpGvWRnhmNVj3JO9Ld5VTrEn3ukd3lZGhWg8uGY6nO28WYS0j-llNQTzO86bTCVJO-k-GjehOt1x_neINv7qt871ukRqCqjpkrIOawBXEjRRu3n_KZL9gQi7r1_FCMPtN98IfMq-DWFG61rvkWJTreI-cp-GCUt7g4q16cQOKk57NMhcELCCEnzrUzvUh8I5ztfoL3bzhTPrPsHXsurvTdIz3DHIBTB0bGnOTOJg57RLgTsAi4YqLVtYpf_IZwfNphabTeCYofkbi1i1jPQ=w1794-h1346-no)


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: neale_rs on November 07, 2016, 10:36:24 AM
It looks impressive!


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on January 11, 2017, 04:51:32 PM
Here''s a little update on the Jeep...  The little things.

We've had several days worth of heavy rain.  Lots of flooding and trees falling down.  Jeep leaks a little.  I sealed the dash with RTV and without the plastic, I can somewhat localize the issue.  I think it's coming in from where the windshield hinge bolts to the body.  I'm guessing the sealant is dried up and is now bringing the water in directly from the outside.  The problem is those bolts are passing though some enlarged holes which help them align the windshield frame at the factory.  They spray a bunch of sealant into that area from the backside but I think it's leaking in where it's a little thin.  Might have to try that can of spray-on sealant since there isn't much I can do.  It's a PITA to remove the bolts with the factory sealant still on there and it will probably make a bigger mess then what's already there.  So yeah, it's leaking in the same place I took pictures of before.

In other news, I finally got around to reinstalling my front driveshaft.  It's been in and out a few times in the last 2 years.  I first removed it when I was trying to fix a pinion seal leak.  I've had this leak for many years and thought it might have been the yoke that was causing the leak.  I ended up smearing  RTV where the pinion seal holds onto the housing and the leak disappeared.  This was also the second time I replaced the seal.  Both times it leaked.  Note to self, add RTV to the seal and not rely on what crusty sealent is used from the factory.  It's not enough.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/r4MqAHJkmqFsYiCB8xeWJi6nAjNQS8MpynXzE0e0y3yoErj9Wwfxe8sVykoiD_GrNi2U7eG6-CrSV_1FgNSnBKC2Mrp98MUyUhUh98IQvD9n7vGwMMsO80pjA7gZEcThnQRzgR-gNpxBeqPHZjlw6HCGG0IInAPSPXjtteCDKFv-qrlnRHKyFPt15SeMJ8l12vap4gfrYOdjDk2dxim45-HyS1ssR_Zm-iEz-2HMGH29J9x2sB_tmprm9Bu_n761a2W1asams76-xjeMhFIZqD-iQM6NIA_eOyG4SKe-NozsOj0dnYcrOY0xW0oaA9FW7lvNsx9KKq8dXcHArq5cpsaq7vVZsPZ5euAPqXPJ189OXZiJ_MH8HFpuLxwV_da79XRTnaBQc_6uGI85pzDS40IchSBzuqLuFFEbsluCiaH07nCZywcNtZlNx7V6xHVKrZNUFU6OtHmsNCQON6GXbW8E91-I5962vK1Z_hXObd09NTpCXyRm2Cjf2aHlLHhfK5jRa-do11qzYGxkryYGkTL4K-9RxB9p_gt904rBO0jWZwTuUiGFBr9a42zf-lWMj8diXghFJ97E_g4kfGj7V1_B8dZnOEEsJQA53ktukaUCRyOuOO601Q=w600-no)

Also, it's the first time I've really had the driveshaft in since taking out the 1" motor mount lift so the driveshaft angles should be stock.  I did run into some vibrations.  They would appear around 45 mph and stop around 55 mph.  Typical out of ballance issue.  The temps are in the 40's so the grease in the sleeve wasn't distributing itself properly.  Taking the Jeep up to highway speeds and driving around like that seems to have cleared that up though.  Angles are pretty flat for still having a SOA front.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HQkvkXaBwe41fTUY_nSVlo61dMQ_zXi1f6AvFnfjM-_FqZYvUcCp5plXIoNcy7D6Kr3NjBE2074kswCQqyJ6DExMKmSoQOt6fnUPvqJCgYPtsmq-wNgQezr1bcO25HDhRUW3HwVEOPkQeaz4p-IGseqgeS7bcur8KGL9UiRE6OzaN6TPHVxd9TGgP5CmHAoQumDsrvQJ3yz3Yo8JRFcogSfu_Lug0SGQwmr4kp7DCc0ZtbrMJaP8tDxOqcKjU_5ACbmvZ4bHaWKYQLmSh-NtmJv6-V7EEzqhoL65mFo6XiOphS0hdL-RA_AaKdv1B66fAVu2rizSop5z4moV01JmbTlEU1hPpaMXEi6KcOxn0qetxi-3obbUZgn34fq220K_YGAKP2bf_ClzFWdMDEy130vjL6WJoZiWZQ-W3WbzDeouz1QspdzYxbiWKe_ZX6gaBxtDJQW7cWl2STLvQH5sEyvijd-ZP2lspu8G60tUErrBBT00DOFrR1Yy0P0Rn_dISo8Xt-9M8_ZI8Ue_nUXmv6wQhw1e7AL8HywfCpTUDy7bhcR3szl518rGPpMdTG7TilH8crFqQey0la-rVR8oZvq4i2wPeITlHf9whY3LD-ymTkS3__TMAw=w600-no)


The other issue I've been having since taking teh 1.25" body lift off is that whenever I hit a whoop in the road the tires rub against the flares.  This is mainly causes by the greasable shackles allowing the leafs to absorb bumps.  I doubt it would have been a problem with regular shackles.  Anyway, there are a bunch of different ways to cut the flares.  I used tin snips and I think that's the best way.   I've heard of people using jig-saws and such but they cut really easy with the snips and you have total control.  The other option is to use a box cutter but I think that too doesn't give you the control to cut a clean line smoothly in one go.  I jsut snipped off about an inch at the trailing edge.  I don't care if they rub when offroad since it's slow but when going at highway speeds and get you that 'bbbrrrrrtttt' it's a bit unnerving.  I could go with TJ flares and chop the body to clear but I kinda like the YJ flares.  I'm not rockcrawling nearly as much anymore.  Dealing more with flooding and mud now as it's rainy season.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BInD9EDLS1RyB64OmtJ3aIhf2XdQrlP-xbIETaps_8c26wHdGSIllJdcEHb3syNlB6RmTl1JLAu86pG9HT6Lqs40PexSI4fnBAFxXUwq8W4wXzu-ob21-QfCYt0kntH3_LOLJOkKv8XmSchoA5sBhUyRz3sOkvd0u4TTx4SBQe-PUAtppXx6e6Anej6Obga31sBjfbacdFSc5_rtaetqbW5lER9fCzl2LSgalAFCFPQ3nNDGQsTCDB4TTTwex-eoLay5ujRyC8oZcpeMWPftAaFP2_Wie_Apki2bHEeylt3CGbqxJbIDSbOPWQOf-TbPIL2XishjTj5K0CX4JxH2xN1q9D-BSsTikcKy3lUGKLTeCwa4psaB_neSI2kdOO7VBMFJjNNyTSEjxD9-nc8tlb1hAa8kgq_0iBDBKzP2RrUyIoAcQ5bSo3AE8KuXwO4lkAUKChw4fATV_bCiGL8u76_WzqS6HrbIiq_vd8WiQFNbywcTwxEeg00bbNpNc70Iwf6xUC53r-2ARF9aZ81VsITOsyo__rxGR2ZKt9fxbH2pKbuwzvxECw3jJz1t_E_ciP8mvo7esI_JOqmhfL6foP_JTvwn8lHdp2IuGOXvuqKl34aqX8apsA=w721-h961-no)

Oh, and here's another thing.  With my dash apart, I decided to try to fix my column.  The locking mechanism isn't engaging all the time.  THe springs either too weak or there's enough friction in the column that the key isn't turning far enough to cause the pin to engage the sprocket.  I also noticed that Acc. doesn't work anymore.  Probably has something to do with the lock cylinder.  The good thing is I don't really use Acc. much.   But the real problem is that when I was taking off the horn button two of the plastic clips broke.   This is a common problem you deal with when working on older cars.  Plastics harden and break over time.  The other problem is that because it's an older vehicle, there is no source for a replacement.  I take that back, there are two replacement from Omix-Ada and Crown Auto but both of these look nothing like the original.  I'm guessing the reason they didn't want to make a replacement was that there is a 'Jeep' badge in the center of it.  Seems kinda stupid to make a replacement part but not bother to make it look like the part it's replacing.

To fix this, I ended up using JB Weld, a cpuple times....  First was some Quick 5 min JB Weld.  The problem with this stuff is that it's flexible.  It flexed too much or else I didn't add enough and the clips broke again.  Did it again and it held better but still broke.  Went a third time and added even more and I think it held.  It's on and it isn't flopping around so I think it's good.  I'd need to take it back off if I wanted to see if it indeed held and that's not going to happen.  I think if I had a 3D printer I could create new pins and then glue the whole thing to the back if the button and have it work.

Here's what it looked like the first time I tried to fix it.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NrfZK_nglycaTkejCPLenE-PCuN4W9ck9anoytrryQDHE0e3hmTeZ9RUOAXtchMWX3HUzZxKcUmkQ1z-dgm_yuGNFHC0T_A9Hg7jy7l2w9qw-ShSDXObP_TarrfczfhyyNccViPJY6isIbl5GH8LoFES8pFljXUjLbg9Z_swtaYLPWadbeisIhzzdO90hWuRRbsuGZkxJJce5QBTnVMA39lAaMrpioJjKW1h3jXdOWIdk76xlQF85moSully2jH6Msnk2VoCeGoEdKNfr_l2jkvLO58dvz1_iVd0SQb-lplEnhmbs3IJhKMb2pfhaKCNqeZbwS8eZmlidbAKoZDiilht5LfpXid1Gx0baqr6yl8YPKhtqvtwZuPMDBRB3LbN9PrO8aG4kubTVdVKZfDGEjmWfe3LcVvEgE7yA99Jrpq81yduu7yi4d3p5AC-X1C7dnauQUftnSYnbJcm0XSFl8pZvSfNcmjshJNIo00eLmmi0aHXGEnDIQ1UvvL6YAhZlP4e7uYjsVHahYRqqy1RsPSpBEWEjfir2WV_Su3II_VNffet-XgBIIGMBY0Eo7IqaEHsef-KvmqEwxNQCk7sHbs7SEgTIm4vzf0rOYs3gsFwj7zAZiGxhg=w400-no)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8C9-L5HR2EOVvfFtSb6aN_kL1fPQKAvU2mt54aTYDZLHZkAZtICOrhTt40YdHCbWmoVdCfaqxxoOL028HgNfSdqK9W90NKtKzJ3kN5N0Ff7o6KhlpYuU-Ab-CfbFVQKXiCnPQ3XMGu_c-GI-AfDT0nhP_BxWvEWOH5gDUwfL3ZpXsoRfVjjfr-VGw4CAzaUdzGjBOrSiUa2xiSmFW-5o2iyKSL_jsIZF3BBrzNn9zAphx0x98a0ZoQn_qohhu5U9UEdyhpimR3b6N5m3WvBonAM0ZDB27NiFuLZ-qC4lV_dVGFmk-ydnE9mSTdC4ltu_NxaKimkfbA9j6nU7Unc_2kaZcgGUIjkoU_pBxPd1U47vZ-n29ujRKHbuArUXOMy0xZPRF3Y9zVGJV9of4tNuO3zCYZPJYiTV3XH9nSTeq0KUZcuY2TmFsfMKz3InsuwkL2b4E4h5VLIF769wk-qq_wxkHJpYCTmXC63q-2rDay_1Wj9hE-sNDABRX9zFFolm6eqxxkGO8gNxW7HBZzQW6OR0Xxhjl1uu94RVzLj4jezW630MKxQWr9fToHow_zqil1AMAa6RxCZeQ5vPXdv6fwTp8HJgAZKQGN1Z9DO-MoaytdokpFrpwQ=w400-no)

Have you ever noticed that the column shaft has a marking telling you what's up?  Yup, the wheel is off center and had to come off again.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nu2wmPiSM_BZx3WG_Qvw2oYHZnkZMtC6TkgQAyKU-JnmUQxFUZ4Zrcxg5B8ocOBrue6nxCseOyXglqJu_AN25to8TsVsqiKnBgtSo3qPCltD2b5_4ih54AAQvgCswukOPzidXzgL_g-NmXXlERWtxHfJMTBNtWysK95xoLGTyCPKpKcRcOV9niFB6f7eEL41U6P4_u39B3HHpbML6KONa5LrYXPnS_DPdqlVgyTB7ghDmtW32HA2KMFds4BMraNixGqphRHtgPnxCL9WULVNdQ4KC1jkPVtCWFzAQxFqlFAwgzg0wm5OE6Wx54NEnxiHETllzfb0xLXw4iYb_RKeNu3-M3xStv9vO_jw2MoStjEVSSXPcckiFb6q_-miudbWy6WOTq7NSffPr6BqUc4f-91dtcDG_q4q7KxXNTF-Imp0Y7eiU6PRpnWDpn4BraWiO2DCix-ORnXDD5Q-WIppnsi4vqb_glpxE_2nHW_ayLDfIbWPSY9_OLN5KO3rQ6cOOYL0OSoIQ3nTjFF9hEpvZbIC7-ADR5Ozs_ZU38ygtyGTCfusTPiZLATQrmRr6DEkEa08fiuEpIP7jNg8GrA2h2x5NkcVbs2Qo9AfOJfB1U6ArACRIb77aQ=w1282-h961-no)

Take two...  Yeah, it broke again.  Not enough JB Weld.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IBEQgJEXFKKLeaOrCEXmQvHOeKhn6rCw9JeeKrgY52_XMzkglgUWodk7BRqsa1b-nNvght0qTRFPKopf9icjJ6-IEE6sX_-_tgPlc9SeUYoQ6itX5bOK-X_s3fCdCnZOS3OuNXcyw-lrbdMW3RP7cCDFv8RbA2y2KUlOsm900kQHCZ-jHIB-ibz8L2OYyoKusQeqEJ4xs7iAYWVYRzCDw33trpAwDutZTi7scs7ZU_rzRkIgcP7No5PPavgkPeQC7rR2exNxMnDt3V0ljYf-QO5f2mBfXG4CRzRdMpdcEREhnp5bKve5pw25CU3_FHtqZ7d9ol-1yjWI2rniOkomAguzsNKl-qQGQIlSMrT_5m5Mik9ZmcEvgdJ2-23S86YIX3w-SCHSunepwrKuSejKur8C2BRECEmokdi3aHWbBpQx244ZRDcDtn-xRJczlDJ1hV0_wuYWRnZQPA6DVKhixA4IbVeY4ESNt9jaWs7UXK9VZSROvX77vKaTxSbvi-4EgijAvgtsh4VFUcy0D7wZ8v6ai90YAxerznuMp7SnB0uT0Q5HFKdUjFYAERcRvDd5cWhGN_zOUdtJ7DV9Fs6x97SmBGuAKneaxJIM42n8k0PjbzMHXyVlsw=w400-no)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PkMwFsGv4-vlAtEZWBVORuqk00mWmI_7kDqpgBeozbxZVwYXZrzh76K5H4zoJKTOklz9szwLVLlVNCp7VnHvmP_rpzxM2m9KFzt-mUbgjH3GFkKYlhJT-LRxouQgboH9X9r-paYlXLI4wPVR_T4zEB5bysICR_z3H_K62azashLNa4lGr-3t1ZbPuC0P55-AukczAuXqm0bw_gMjXfbUpZlVAyP-uCZrx9dDyHRjQUT8Q0HE6STrIetdIDcR7XFUqLCoRJPZSN39bXb0EnlLfzvUwJRYeH-U654kFyu113R3SQHRWv3QCp0K1mnrlTHemYo635D2RuL9UCuxrSHLwJDzz4SyqEG5FKtEyN4z3c2j6NY0u6_9GzZaqwdffXSnsPqCt8ESyPMGfBf2JAVObOV1FFp9agSb0LW5TkguMIly2gPwQ93-w_2jjENncmqzifj-cTyStmHWe0yyGaUPYfwlQ4DGSQB4CaMxgjtFkpIQ3El8FAg1aKmhoMmp4wKcXR1-69loQLP4lMIYCdl0l-M9zDyfiUqwOAg2v_GyxHBEcoVd_fRFanbjFE547Js-iC9hPflSoKu-mFZyB460RseVMMfzGuifq8zwUIJvKfVZsfKw_OKZNg=w400-no)

The key is to get as much JB Weld to support the pin but not enough to prevent the clip from clipping onto the metal ring.  If any JB Weld is on the clip side, it needs to be ground off or else the additional JB Weld will force the clip to flex even more and more then likely break again.  Also, make sure you give the JB Weld enough time to cure.  I'd recomend more then a day if it's cold.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fEDeKtd0p4N4l0zs0szLYdyq3cn9NPzTy9FZGeWnd2cD_xgvWjpqKgvSR4mwHJ-_MH2v7_TeFN1VwB9249BaGOQO9xbCk4A6TMMTlFKBEG25K-okAIXki-Gkqpn-6p45JcDaBzHQb8dT43HAzM-jsHH_CDq70SBp5HsLHiYRnBvjKzLfuBisvqllyKfbEmZTXTG20pDyDsn_aOUfVthLC7hIzh8A4YqiExFlT1wvg0jIGTEk4o5fW_J2DBsTlZ62EJGhjyeAt9vHX7OfBHMmNMbdrvawcEqkeDvlUe6Yf2tqCwyn8Oyib8yjCdWcEr-CHEbJpfN4y0jKk7hKmgy8sm47GE8a-jqSVrMtUnjyVKPsmQUqr1nZ1Gmn1ECYuZFSc-0nXGhIXuYpMNd0UNEzg2DbHHYqFQdWWND7uTLbTY8XN4ytIxnK1X1lTCq9FZz4AKi0A8edWTp0ZUYfTmWGowQe7YY1GQsYKYQbkTLAFss8sJGW8ua36dOeSNu6hMEFFOx-s0dPV6xc9u9JgxcyU0G6bbjWvCHq-oCAaxTzN1k0xWg8Pq-3-saBCvkTJ9GvEtvag0CkC4cRkFqt7rpfzt810KOG5OhsBBL-HbZEZGk14CKiZzIdbQ=w1282-h961-no)


Title: Road Trip, Junkyard Trip and fixed my OBA Trip...
Post by: Jeffy on February 21, 2017, 04:46:16 PM
So the 700 mile trip turned into a 900 mile trip.  Man, driving up 99, I barely made it out of each town as they had flood advisories and Mantica was evacuated right after I left.  The rain was heavy and the wind was fierce.  Ended up getting my AC bracket replaced while in Burbank since there was a yard that specialized in Jeeps.  Got a decent price on the bracket and it was from a '95 so it was the newest one you could get.  They actually had several of the ones I needed and many others.  Cowl seal isn't sealing and was pouring water onto my leg as we headed up Altimont Pass.  So many stupid people flying through the pass.  I think at least one person hydroplaned into the grazzy median.  I think there were around 15 cars total with many small fender benders.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A-IIMz7qU1eXBdogVGN93kCfIe_FXPzl3FNqgnbIssulXCYmihBkUaL8YHxBQO20Pn6nCwfE3Xt939oVt9INZizU6xL90TVjM_oqG_tLYpCNf4S06QJIYT1qQ3EmZcCPRKeGSMHqEgCmiuF9oPjnnwPxB4SR1tpdmQYR-GkOjufDUOZsOj0sQ3EDCRh4bz46bid5QFyGQ0hGLzjzrksfN5oEmVQqO995VulETs9lPKbd3sZAhyX2RGpQbYuRvmD9u9T3sjyHtJZzJPuxKkSEqAX77O6zI4l9dzpg49ilcYUkvjFxspXcY8lw4zkIAPyUQBJ4UHlg7qFr3II2vs7UZEGEcg9EhjDEuUmguwP05xER-VUD7A-QwxAnQeH382fAjPGh2T5poVQgyXBwy8T1ARJ-LGqPeA9LknZJ748UOUQlaPbgMBmJiOIyw9g_L9ntaf7aZjm25WU9YF1BXBmWiwj9xlsmff5wgETxQduR4kuFCMDOTLU2On5HX2x8HDdHMNR4hdbxUkAAZM_WPG7rOVPnV28EnxG0r3Wb0RaFDER7-f55MfXb7ws0uNVpY-4O6WNxzAnj-xaA4bmubZjyJjS2iwLTtzB8aDQlJFfw98QgXBD28nAp7cl75pyDlYEzDE4dCxc_pXbyFqzy33qzSr_NS5Bnh36d7NnhYL0UHO4=w500-no)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gJHIO1mPlo50voEO5gyU8dEo3lW5iiyoD1vGW1vm6q9cOnO6wfjt67BP7kmvlwrp13Zmx1I-uPIDRXz-RIQQm-ptNfTZ5r1-deJVvVGdWcnTeTdkUT4dM4J_WQpEsN4bnBjnMYyemEv0ZJlP1Hpl0wLwcD_gKVC3giu28Zs1dltvhq5AzOkKp_nR6yur7xVsnwFWXXhZZCaf4_F7-W6L-HE1qp-nPIM0-eoZDjPZogKYnQtuMrQKJsDKrx1HHnYsZhc_buFOZ91eEmBQlb7EKtOVul3b_7sFjiuANm99xsbw7LEdEQRsktOs0wSkXKUyy1Vy1dSsCXwoRGQFDQWKUiP0trcASDbOJRrlnP0uPNpkyX1NoIx0U1LvvkITEf9bFhmGhIu170mpTM0geKMmx4GKEr5YA_cMHcZtvnNAtSrRm3OwPn3lEh3Z9TKcmTKMmbR8Xk_dHUs0NNzMvHqtWHdogltFIW8h21wQYgJ85C2TGOInqobI1UhNFRY4YxMKTqI5NllDikBXI_H679pgYqO6tnQGySWl4I41iev_AfeAOLuJHPwXT6QIXMmnKDfeih4fiyZw0KbMAOCpT7GhDZt9lQ6_8CnzR-zntJ1gcn8G_RTDlx-Rb8YAjDynbyK5E5Kv_nj-PI3C_bkViySFEq8pw5q4DGq-YqlFgxQbiRc=w500-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z6HS8GE7wANn2rtheJUTyiaAumpJPVZFvAtezZS0Jb26RQaNyn7hajftbNW4gbW-FY4boUttSdN0-K2XTC4vEaKSXU0A1vk0i3tK3hGrizOxze0Z8RB27HEJIseVei5Zj9Efqxe9tMtQkV1IwXvNN0MgTqUrubB68Po_2C5ebcXqS7pKpMsMNyrKwNO5Jt8Z31rPsauTz0gabe6xICr9RQj3sI3oyU1M2POD-t2ifNV5sDvMMcxjW1EqUyAauHAulbll93yOzHmGKrmsmSMxUPUArCflFYmtQWDOwPfVg2oPAcGa1nGrJVoeam8iPylA5QFZo5Ty5qO9A4gz0QuJgczeB_dndmBQAXfoO8mTN1jtEsr1Tn-n6qbyOlDchWBKziuthfyqr557TQHRnKbxhGxRVJneMQKJ3SiPAxlu5mG7YydJmAfeFhCN7F0u2ONEgBdRuszMaSA82_rxVe9wbDNmXLo5lSQkdgj_ovHhZhHNzrQ6fefV7InjpznO-OtSTLeAy7nLRBeLmSrg_VCkyMJxotbOquf0x-1rwKa0McxMbJJ9FGysnkzJ3keoIQAcJjuUgnRSgttwBk_SnWJMJVGr8DNzJmlpRnwaOdfLt1tpy4AIs3Ti-yO5T51wcyBXocL668NESn0INmJvehTiO1Zlqz8jsoE48nM_7Kl7Pbw=w500-no)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3pWDg1yaS_N9BaeIXIW56fVqLaS1q4a4TDUfAF5SXfrjNhxA-ol6_oZwwBlBl2bdFZWIM_bCgFron_9xyrHifU1e0WSIPV2LMx-t5ZVAsfr9IGg5IX4spXDr_0xc7n3afRcm3Ff4FcGf37a_f5o-567g0VYhyyGxFgZrJleLOCGDCOzRD3OhmmHu2Q29AHzDZ5qEQkvpSsJdW4bf4uwx-iw9C2eK06lADzpMeHlnbGCJL2kD0AR2mT2v2ycbpm9n15gNVkbpm2BDQGk_HebXb42ngRmHgwiwmoGic5Xe7BHBjP3TBHenaQ7vdyRa4OmaZlS4Ey3Rl6kypEkhkYq7Y-YUkROtoxiyBXQyD4VkQUx6PZ2I99jPjfzSu2X8mCX28dpZsxatdDCmfjAEdvkM7sqBlU3rQbgc5gj6EBxYnIfRMdOAixikrJIHTntM2thMPcWMYk4TgtsiyFfHcefcxdoT3KH2dKO7jIm6Rjj3B2nLoPc68f9K6-ImkpP1lynmqiJ-8_PRW7PyBDAhzsTJQuGI2OMjaAwK3pn3VWI40UTAaz91bm6K_DCtz8LNt3NdgFfa_nuzP4gro_JQ5DNs7Pm6UKskYnZn9BQPhbor1vIvKOfvnXDLPAuexP1dpS66c14xRXm7ARuFihreIMEBflPLCsEZmZNmqkAks2rS96w=w500-no)

Look how clean the cowl is on this YJ.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jgX4iAPOYascTtmNSpjR3Edq-hINNEaLb3CXcwXLvqufTSWvPcZ2NwFyQMCA9t9DGqrPyZhgpOoee_a-PkZs4EmBlxFcd-n1IpomykraecY3wroy8F6_ydgAey9Kem2fkmBKFNcr74uaBQGLOtq-BLTIhWvfXTCuboH2OgmgrWsGzuLegW8OTL3qiahLz-v_qNS9q2yyUe6_BOr-diDxZ9uD6r94N_SPExmXS73EErKm3ouTbNdfd412oUMUC1URBw8C6uMA-0nbbaD2eBDuB91AL-rXmL6OwBl8gI_CdIc3c_j36yf70EJ6k4vgQfaqvJV44IQYjPdYksFEyLVMsJ-fZqtj8fzyJPC8rqlG6zF4ISDfeXqpXONsirNK9iBrwkV37TkQVr1g24jNssCS7Tm0NgYieO9vldZd-hKBgbRZmwBqj2XOEoF8vYCo7Y0ZAJLemMaJx0rcGZpVYYsQ5UuW83GDIl8vKCqWJX_YJDApXlgBuY3NbMmI2rSy4ANua767lOK0VL95NhSpmuHzqjNoqVtHrhQrD-UJc-ZgG6Uk_J5SpswyoWGGaT3tgazgopSqz5vVSsy57UkNzDzm5eHywVISazkAj4I-JLF3f1SjXZTkGHhuRZ76ZpSjrTEIKJDufjAomFN7b4Hwi33kEx8nIiCOHpaVMExAfP90hng=w500-no)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O6DFY7cVX87comufy6BKypEt6liky-3OoEKA0urF8n_GFGlMC5wYjqcBfBvpnmvIteuFAEJIl46u0gvZ3KD95gvoISQU2ewZkQ1xYV1mmVxIgvpGSQztA43ESmR2_lp2mmkJDHBIdm0XAtEvHxeGl_lwiwaJsnS-dFFusIFzFj-kzpbwyLbudoFRjud9v3n0x5BoKZc9vuC87ZAlPZ2nKkY4DfMfYSm-FwsNGFmTKfXCCovTUBKUBWqHYBAjRV--Gc0O7jh9qTsyOfjwhTwnJ8A4gVmdQH4FEcKbbeBynocFoA_z96CWQMdWuiTZz26yahde5yaTOe9LXYiQdzluzll_9J2HxqJssq5AcjwzbGwO-2JpW4xQ4gDUjktV8H0Fd41jNZrLImCNYAnnOksnygUq92vSXvquGqpdJFewMb-ylEf3lmm2bY1Hb5dT4yscXvlPxbsfdvC6mL-tenR5ChU2IfEc8eC7469i3AM41bY6UWXEX4mMGNosQRVHwRrJ8nKmUvZ2g-b0C_G7_-6paDp2djSs0_7Y1fKF375I8BlAv7_pG4Z-yRlfNrP9wXC6XWZ3IH4nVnJxVdI5HuuLWU1cfzFblaFZ4STx9dUI7_bwndNH7A4oP_4jS_cT22nmndWwOSjQ7izbQbSsTCPp8DqHESI0NOcfKE0B8w661T0=w500-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zOM4KBbxIlzCkkGSuY22IamUCHxnGGWdaYV0WaDuk1WhKm2leQBH04GgyFFxsLE4np8gwwDjgZI5sLsEPD8fy8nIZYiIrx1YmFXc9XaQ7_MRy71FqLG4VssuJVM3SvWk7Tq-LXIwDcXYTjLkuTm2bmu3aWTGEh6Fcj3ziPKP0rZdWNbHDEAdNKXea3SZ3Xhv7_kFqPccpXynqp7c9QUWmchfIP0uy7tAlKkmkpUn5uNHSgTlLjxeukltfnq8m59nClkB1KLQPq_LZC9h3-kOidHzjDTfZ7VmdcSRrwzlXYY4LxyGvYtFSPXHYG-GbULiB1eDJ0iCxkY7Rc0OGPpY7stNgK4Nr1wUnmyzVeZcQA9vB20qx7cY7GYHExWl7SA6V7YIyondp2kfzJkAOqXoUQJKe2ymxQcCpAJIEFGK_iIFdqHRUdpoyuoFQlYUhVwr4qecFjK83JtZ6shAnajmBN1YXCF56ASxCzeOqfYbIcl7YVxXmuA72PD87us82Pr2dPkyTBpuH8T0x8IK6lnOmyj1F1sO5iyCifWpbHGSJ5xuOwZWDPk_GLEpBsC1T9swuS2fjA2ocaq_71Oj_Yl6xbfOVsVtozU5cDsgnRVrHw8YGLrXgTZtPw8u5zxJ1KltapHQWavVgCv3WNqzvw9MvKtNRi3Cbvz03hx8TvAPEkU=w500-no) (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vGIee4RCRVpIzlnHuvLnpLsv5m44NXyQwd5oC7Dq4HhnBGnP0A45ZzCLZzAnz7Z1qrm9h-nSGGmMGrk157Z5kWFPEQTWIHuS-kpYQGRwIriASDl7YeLgX7x5oQBKpSl9z84aNkUBEfBcsmruc5jaNL2LxYvERG6Hz7x7jO5FCn-FEGQenpEGLNrhOFD0xGs6ad_BFFaIopHErefQ-dHZ25WAr1BK5DR-oS0VRYqVSvA04_g1OUSk8yuYYloqR7twP_JpqfQD5k_GgHQ73jHU6Xor5X7LWAK73w_4koHitOE10IoaA5yVCSUkyKZmNyqMfMvRHq4_tCGc2fDU-er4vIK2qhtwQMUJWGaLk_Q0rUCU8wx-iG0_-3FQ8yZwSkczrCg6WwwwDFGhmE6AwTSfmibsFApCa4e4RzyPzyhYAoEfd-H3Hgal5F2CV2XoSTvVqIKn75S5RPYTB8q-u2W988bhqCQqrMNp76wjHDtUKI6m7d5tJCkK7zO5eh1d6qaTljJKz2zQzfYb8mtKeyWkToXvN622NRzOWeZc6v2ICzFw-HtQt77HD5OwfqzFsvjl7NT8CD7TzFysV5HRPCN5pIZvpTySZoeWmaFSh856nBST95wJbSywSmwk0BF2zUCZ4NwmOnCz9nr6f8RhONx42-gAR2f3QUwS7nvIkTqoOX4=w500-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_GjP8pHTfrTtddDH6c47OsAaSEUlSSSag91AcoI0xhfDMjMTRmBfi9NVmn5dWyqZR32rZkz2-605xgbKmoiqER3U5Bj7TQXf2-co0Uoz0ol2OKn5q5XkzYQOzqePUaPTzLPyAcfC2JM-O8vhsVn37hlyufiP9KLkWaxqxBGlAdH2APnShph9hhic8CQjPJLFedt0m7V4MwdbYwyrJQK6p2oMKDj99BXo5Eqa1bqZ_IUZOELgdGqNb-VX_km34ToKoaHq7-EJWgF_38RcMxKTxwbEbIxwlZr_4pwybBMngEAJz-BI0r64_857Mye52wsQnWr6kUfE6zbBvAjtkrj9IQzceHDm4SPua25kL2-88Tm9IrLsfQRIo30VqLsxiKuGDnlpMzTI4An7gpoxCVjJ6BSKcW7XVFOIwYVhg786vePHXlqsCJgtINUYIq5mE1CHvbUkWMX0Ydv9SSwb8aexQ_Ao9XqFHFwofhGqwe3cPrNAuNsNstTVOHRxkFrEADMkq01e2ggKwNzTx0YDRcPgq2h6JVQqjGoKA-YQYtIkykmLcwQqDh093DS6onmfn6Hz68Zy_GLByh5jWVlmPtGI2Nxz0QaD31vmQZFHzRsRsm9Nn_lLpQ0BwRvnbFORri7z4N6jmMXjhoZwDyvqQ7ozgAJatHxjIAWZ-uCxlo4LHuU=w500-no) (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1WbkOZcz-PvMjxRqJQV7PIO97NnAmMuanb7VA1isDbubxmJkHQ0Bn2WS1-jsMf_zjoIaMQyAPE2YloFyeUa7ZWko5k3hRRkWsopd0IFZsEj3m18i7_RbaMV_8UDKcaG5Qem1jwug9h4XkvQDx_g_2zqbOWGdeFcllY8GNi5wTIOOGRJ9sBJB-eInMLgKYvbKdqxB-Q5aDT_vxGziVNI_3G_b_Tm9k1g7o2e98e53-jeIIPazDlsWiYa94sGFH2iYDdlF53NalhXpnj-3w79WuwzbkyQFLUxRzjoFJPulfhR--368eR37CObC22UroGY4zYG2m_5SNBHDI_WbKCdfyN0wOqu4lXyaEdBrv64vepq2xxY9tz9TGvm4lz-JBHvRdHdP-zZdKG2pk2EfA4GQLoDJ2uL7euPPNiMiUdLffu3gP5Rpc8xBMXNVhJFiW6KZiM2d0Z2xeb6zZFqIea7yx3n9MUg4OgeEzO8f__GUSV_WviW_mbG_1UT_ezUh_vmGyKEJspKIsMkqqGja9Gyj5Cejxsau7B3F9F_HXMzULI5KGWMRZfF5I2WmflxnsQ4VTEgnxKN6xLsdljLDXMOn40QfZbfhQ05ggDrKBbMr3TVvVewnJTvZb_5rzc7S8y297vvPNn722pIOd1p_RJZqKuFOOETTdGvuod_e2LX5WJI=w500-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PKWEkfPHv4vL_-iazx71C09FOPhK6aiDh7I_wqM6f1DGtm1qmoxWibASclN1Tdz6uFtuuLeG6zDUmzNbH8EDSSeQMk1L02fodq05y8klVl4jjvtYbbbWkSxzgIeRfbbskv-AnFpyD1dTwirsVGAKbpDhFfZX_DF4NRftHZdCpcia7vJrzkoEExWcxze2zJH9UDUTPKH7a8Ml0tWiky626Fiib3SkZ0grO4-E_-o9G-OUQUbUX2w5o7XD_b3QUcJG4seQnexbGRryWVVX1AmdXuyqudvJB94tAoVQrT9-Onquxujst-28CZ-nAHLYqBNdZuq_Bici7cArQNc4TTMKllWl8WDuzWqbogji1JxrKjxCZRdEKW3r6GqKgVYDzPdR9NH5FKVsdR6KN_eahSaZ_jVnb1VmOk-ALCnpzvU8mCPplHQw6CBIi-gl5rGRUbZODbtbXyEwshN9Oa7HKUYPqMkLGdkTYz1Bvqjg5La3L8Mcok2e7Zh6HjIBUgVLcMQtw4g0VJsMr0gj5mVwIHd04cApRHmupz2ZlPYjZYqLxZuZz7CrZbjSkLFEE2mX5Nq3urPyQ_eDvHpHEOByMs6f2ml4VEEgy1t6dUVLKMDKFN_5m2OQVGZLULkiwOxo_4AmR0yfCtjWdXTnK0f9wDn6V1thmicDn_BX8zQQ9GJ5nH0=w500-no)

The new bracket is so pretty.  All we did was beadblasted it and it looks brand new.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nwIqwqW7uybe3_JGACppP3OBrcFYtP1xBECBPTsmCLkOmQPaOYWlsQ9mpU90AA5liABmXcjmyKz0BpL_fR9f0S5MeQWbzQM4S-v7LfTUeT-3SmehUJ_D41jIgDqzB-RxtfiiE_3_f4v9cUflWQrH4eSpc4qACO0-vS5Z4rIvj2jlJDqD2zfiG9YRp--mbiKLrJUZ8ihtgdswPACh6bGz-j1FBuO_9Nqls0FwtZbSq-bMfu_aVlswEO1PcIRZ0aR90Zg-Ps8Vp0laSxEPYLQ-KF_iWtqVXVypIjS5FCkZr3xMR_cj_A-nQbpTiWXssuv2jR3_rL8bMWXgHcNVVEFFL9WyFSb1QrehW0ODd_FD_OoL1-5bjSYVccgKqGG1SZ43p2xfDckklg9ZwplzVd0s2eBqsTOSt48Gjtv8xKsU1CAm8STe0BD1ip185Pq-XWgHj3yVwP5WMn9XXDs3FMzf5clZPVJZAtgOqA4xLMCp9sGHwJ8aDQ1czXvN6YabsCW0AppyMnjIoXMPD4jET7Furh2_24md-eGr7Xi6jOdpARX99_Q7hubNldevckTdtTO79RZOE02Unu37515vzvJGPr1CZqJSGtZcnXQzdM8OCT5sDP1oGYN5h-wvKC4zfInsqwjPb8S5wr3jWxWY2WWoZMyy1Dx-PIpS4CMEfe2X3Kw=w800-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fl-I9v_UKAU8k2hdOSngujFNuJJ3qk_sQ47OUGl4kBsVJ-W3134s15LHC0AnpeV0Pb0aIWX-UWY-VmwMDvyOiKMAutDVmpL93yBvAKoNx7Et1lilKGYfXqwGVd9mkD8sqpqmB2hOytqDNPcvMvVKL2yvN4oqj__fI14xM7PLPGeFgeZLJNsqXYALCAqmPF_QP-U0MS_8jwEVtxwsZfvAtzTSdvKh7KMU8OizgJnhxi6zV8c9G7O3GE2f4O1MHExOyBymQugiKODBW5pdeqXYa5lOFRKH3X9Nrsh9Cvb4aASZYjiV3AYIJjWsKE4HByNiwdr12dvwKmv6VO0eYmaGsYisiEhjYiDJ-TjojxLAeqLyRPxjQqr2e38Zl3dDmdtMPWWnHrzZpdIKxjFDtQlqbbKII4CL8_NjG2fQWt9GSMokM5T5EzvUQ7Ofd3Py09jecSj2f57DivaoAw69CcyWWkFLoOlifts88U2kmbTJywFN4BhEddOhhJczsc1bn1ws8JNEW1FwgbJBEr1aeaLj6D6zjeqQnV2iMl12kCB9yd97UaZa45keZlLePtIGIDyb4EoEK4MsnWNBLcbWVc4dt2Fxm1p4yPJgYioi4YJnf5iuibyx7d5x6iHhLGsxE7sGBuQGM5PR5lqIlTYl2Yk2yUiRi2UCHF7LRyJFrLFUBag=w800-no)

Here's what happened to my second OBA bracket, which is what broke the A/C Bracket.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aMCqSZJ1BKN6sj24f8b58z-uDbzocl_wLmrx6kaH4DpxF7PLsAMK36Us9BOl4wgqbhac6N3gILdCab5TkJvAyB_iGm2BQdIxZk5NlLtHxl31UXfiTRK-LD2n5bpEMkHUlUk0GDXhJ1DhJt6_PC8vtrLwNrv4r4PGX74T2CUWHXUBdEVtZQ4tzEvVTiakUSX3WhNG6YvvovpXO73yvaJyiI6o_S-Hk3KjqR9ntbffNvVpY1HraxIcAJoGAv_DJyHZycoZ4b1Y9huLZwV1iBHeTUoKC0HZ5fMMgWx868u10hycnQXy3kskWDFj-huKPqtLj_WMHcTXbGo9qE-8EbjUI1kueXUf5iVKwOaZoRjx3M2xz3GAB0puAlfnrh0dtzI44Ktlf9uVozBjFfX-nwtwy-3h10BXTHElR1AqofaWKIoQUN1JsLaJ6bZPgGzhE0GyLKpvUmAMH8Mu6OyZU7rhKVzxSbkdOytpXHce0Iv-9HUZzp8naFBjeBAAXIAxOBCK7ApnF_DQTbuT5BFymxiGE1C8oBkopaGSw7Q9Lxipd5Q4BhUCoMtg6ao1525792Pxl5NCTn_ioWF7AzlvEDdhAUj2yKMOiHVlL-vwQsML-Ei56wjVCUJjRvMSD0sz7PaAZd7sFuNzUVQO4hAEYpAzXhefXZBCOFGFyE61_osSuyY=w400-no)

Welding the new bracket in place this time.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GqGYAc1AHkcC-gLs8_MWBOzliAr0lf9I1xytz7BAkO2KEgjnjaK5HnldZCX3D--gQiOUSlMwkHWx780h-4uy5BcJ0kPwzF7ysU_MTpTuFoXJhORHkuvaMrm1PvFG5UG45hHQku2aLhGNEtYzit7fv8AioF_tDmGSNlp-oRy7prbyn-sMAvcf8yraWVdBl1rmT7fkxSWU7Q466dWCkJXvEQtuRHkzZHZ2ExKGZ98JB9vsVVW63g_EpbWrUPtOM3j8WFdoArzWutSt6sDZtucuiVdp_kqwt8x0m6RdhisDdJvudmOhZ97h-qb-nQznuwkmzY8U-ISXmnyTsD6PiSThY265Vcc04ozAPYy6ITNtXpW2B3JBd_L2suyay6IZG3IHQPM-6Skulih-G71Em5OVby3Z6VDhDRCQcAR1FfA5GHLhYXFVNopElqk-CjeU39KIm0yxwSNOg4cXRFV5UlloXqIK1F9MBDPcrH8sW-r_WQdCxTL_BwK2B6MDM9166AEDUz3r8yXr57KQCJbgeaq44ofdajFEa4ydliNtGYtmugN4mHxKVEjdoXA8aDOW_HV3f3dAWsDaS_4J3hHTAVBWkykcyF6-6HZCI9LejkXvOCRgtfFTZIafVtfGMJRYt1R6xJBh4_9t2ba-ZjWuoQzVWDMSOaCpzOMzZ_C48QZZVNw=w800-no)

Here's the new bracket.  The deal is, if this one breaks we're going to do an engine swap...  maybe.  :lol:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mosgRLdSIhRfV7sfa2Q71BhC7gldNvStkBrH3wM2KLUNejHFXJUfZC-6WSe_lrTPbBkQDohcoYo4FLNv1LPzWuLSitMym1GcNqtIFNdyhIH25XeYh80ewtLStfg7XQNzawdgs54S4WS5tOOhVxFM-Gf1X-vzCoC5azF6lsYCCC7DXPktN4S9OWc8kmRdsAtuoWLYdwSvNj_bccIVfU9ibfMl9fQWaaeptgyfaPJNv_ZlLJbkbLdaR3EKmjgjIalngOXBSisHYNg9aAM3xQtcKUIc4cgdFPUM13a-BGC3OnvzvHrLBAnSSUZ-raCiw49zjnnvCUU5f-z_3LxkIwsOOPczLiECVU7QzeAZ9xwLmkokJMEnmLFa0uhAwApUOlrvLszY_ckSkV_frVZP49K7Pn5fkCNFo_bhv0smE4FqWkZ8Xuqn3GidYRBnjWbMbZGa6wvnpm1ELm3h2NkhYm6LNE3wUzKwHR1Lrk-MnS_JkWJt5W_5iNvBnL2atEAMngqoGpyi5F_xgIWOYKSlo6JxSKALvd1yLDE_jv_ST69GPgF6Ch1SMliTrsJ5SDvvabgrbqPfXiMCzyebwTMfvv3AqyCnar3vQvgk3yGqFg4ALzyGeBB1WMqKV5u8FPvmdscwk58hl7xthY_suyes8KQFg7A1hMoUVte4uTUPQbcNwnU=w800-no)


Title: Re: Road Trip, Junkyard Trip and fixed my OBA Trip...
Post by: bootguy on February 23, 2017, 09:21:15 PM
Was it self pick or did they pull the parts for you?  I am going to visit family in SoCal later this year, may have to take a side trip one day.


Title: Re: Road Trip, Junkyard Trip and fixed my OBA Trip...
Post by: Desertrat94 on February 24, 2017, 08:33:55 PM
Jeep part depot or jeeps only?


Title: Re: Road Trip, Junkyard Trip and fixed my OBA Trip...
Post by: Jeffy on February 25, 2017, 04:53:42 PM
Jeep part depot or jeeps only?
Jeep Parts Depot, IIRC.  It's the one that does PT Cruisers as well?


Title: Re: Road Trip, Junkyard Trip and fixed my OBA Trip...
Post by: Desertrat94 on February 25, 2017, 09:36:56 PM
I'm going to have to go check them out one weekend. They are only about an hour from me


Title: Re: Road Trip, Junkyard Trip and fixed my OBA Trip...
Post by: Jeffy on February 25, 2017, 11:10:16 PM
I'm going to have to go check them out one weekend. They are only about an hour from me
There's another place, Jeep Parts Only on the corner, walking distance from them.


Title: Re: Road Trip, Junkyard Trip and fixed my OBA Trip...
Post by: Desertrat94 on February 28, 2017, 09:29:14 PM
Do they pull the parts for you or do I need to take tools?


Title: Re: Road Trip, Junkyard Trip and fixed my OBA Trip...
Post by: Jeffy on February 28, 2017, 09:58:46 PM
Do they pull the parts for you or do I need to take tools?
It depends.  They have some tools there but you're better off bringing some tools.  What are you looking for?  For the A/C bracket, they had them all on a shelf in the back.  You have to sift through the pile looking for the right part number.  There's a few Jeeps in the back, XJ's, YJ's, TJ's, JK's etc...


Title: Re: Road Trip, Junkyard Trip and fixed my OBA Trip...
Post by: Desertrat94 on February 28, 2017, 10:02:12 PM
I'd like to find some drive shafts. I need some electrical connectors. I have some that the locking tab broke off on that I don't want to spend $75 for a new one


Title: Re: Road Trip, Junkyard Trip and fixed my OBA Trip...
Post by: Jeffy on February 28, 2017, 10:06:34 PM
I'd like to find some drive shafts. I need some electrical connectors. I have some that the locking tab broke off on that I don't want to spend $75 for a new one
They have a '95 that's somewhat stripped but it's a 2.5L. I forget if it had driveshafts or not.  They have a 4.2L YJ that's less stripped and I think there might be another YJ. 


Title: Re: Road Trip, Junkyard Trip and fixed my OBA Trip...
Post by: Desertrat94 on February 28, 2017, 10:08:52 PM
Is there a difference in drive shafts between the yj and tj?


Title: Re: Road Trip, Junkyard Trip and fixed my OBA Trip...
Post by: Jeffy on March 01, 2017, 12:54:59 PM
Is there a difference in drive shafts between the yj and tj?
There are 3-4 different shaft lengths for YJ's alone.  One for 2.5L's and one for 4.0L's as well as manuals and automatics.  The longest rear shaft is the manual 2.5L while the shortest is the 4.0L Automatic.  This is reversed for the front drive shaft where the 2.5L manual has the shorter length and the 4.0L auto las the longest length.  I can't remember if the 2.5L automatic is the same length as the 4.0L manual though.  I think Qtech still lists OEM driveshaft lengths in their catalog still.  You might check there.

A TJ shaft will not bolt to a YJ transfer case.  The front of a TJ is a CV while the rear has a different slip loint.  To use the TJ front shaft you would need the CV yoke off the transfer case as well.


Title: Re: Road Trip, Junkyard Trip and fixed my OBA Trip...
Post by: Desertrat94 on March 01, 2017, 01:22:45 PM
Cool thanks for the info man


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on June 17, 2017, 07:34:16 PM
Working on a bunch of little things that I needed to do since forever.  I had the front diff guard off for close to a decade if not longer.  I had a diff leak and I always thought it was the diff cover.  I was thinking that the diff guard was warping the cover enough to leak.  Turned out that it was the pinion seal but not the seal side.  It was leaking at the housing!  Since you can't take them out without damaging them, I jsut spread RTV over the nose of the diff so it's sealed.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W9AYhfUr3kqkBDPWGUxfeEUdr6DcBCECv_SNjYE9WzN4blyylrLZl8UarDXhJBet_p7exaQvNRXU4VgxTTGoWlgU-9FeypErAWeWZpBGJCSYGqYAiu7keXqWiqGxNP9HKF20Clk6uZOzLxSA10UkOicB9GJD7X52HbsFPc0Nzoynb5vPud-98dAQKSXpciJg7MRWU5Za6vEd9Wf7bfALqbMcEOg6UyWgowFjwHW6ZPNVI3plAnC-URFWBqExKX1wL4IwOmteAxmYhFOsTLf1clBZaWvGbIr9jn4c5Xm4fYhKoQc3G3O5-1lZUAZZ-T9nadRe5EXeAGPHGnXVW8qqOg45F0vx1vPTw8DFFUE_KX8RfNw41qqufiV-JCpaOK4lgIQruXG8WQ_Soh_5-IPsMf39aXMEe6-1ZH9Ej8pO9TIrLNZaQRXKFyftqy3QhFuMxexm1Zep40Av7Tmru7Eh3EWxwkfOE1qoMMKv_c-goBI-kQQSqg5oWJssRJ_-GfJmiiMyLkGwy3JI6iiLTnpgwwWnxlDlRRkMuQX0fGbGS2HhtRKsEmmCpSVNv2yT17i5lDJupll-9zM3EYu0Yqr15T_e-MgDoWtDSbeaXyFN191NDmSdOZiiA=w1292-h970-no)

I think I'm going to have to take the tip off the exhaust.  Good thing the tip unbolts.  The bad, the hanger is on the tip.  Gonna have to wire it up so I don't smash it or turn it into a shovel.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6OQifqf5MNPh5iDYRDJUgJT_MyCoudUrAsk42vJn9af0xGhKu9GsIpp5t1BhdLNfldktpintOYvoErfn87k0KGz8uA1aTxn_BpBwgLTL2QCYnvV6rOjKTBdD-aDvC8izw4TatW89Ne4iHmroC1Z5NZps6Jzn7OELDWUujFHhdkSfJhTDFhZfOtHLT6Z3Wo_NLCVY-Vnsz7T6MGJEIdRQat4pNxyD7m-1ZjuQa7sSmx2kFY4OuW3vgsjax7D_qyVdFyANlrlkbXRnvM--ALOxEAmwSEAUfImdsnCVZjJ3YXipli0j8C-_SwTSWvGqYDuvkpNXyT26ANflUtnjgeqDN75MYTud2CcOG_LYU5yL5ntuBza74xOLO-x_QcWT9rJZD1LtNuOm6ltbZ3sgnoJrUPfuIUPh0fhFDqkCS_uVbqHQETAhxAs_EtY6bfjQfCp1DglIGwNqNizKPtXeNJNtPlJVmnUk932mKUBJgNP87UDLGoY7i7up4ZTdVFAYlcJriskzZXfp6tSrefbribrmg1Yqgx6LkWklQzILDwIS16XJaAG9To-hk3Fv1pFSvyYjkqWceyCC8tk3D2aokLm0t6vZ-mrQpaParWvDSTJrbwg09VaXxg=w1292-h970-no)

Oh, yeah, I took the hard top off my Jeep.  The last time I took the top off had to have been before 2011 since that's when I changed wheels and tires.  The Jeeps never had the top off in this configuration.  I threw on the old duster cover which surprisingly fits even without the soft top hardware under it.  Also put the bikini top on.  I have to figure a way to attach the top to the front rollcage so it's not attached to the windshield frame.  I want to be able to lower the windshield.  I might just zip-tie it for the tim being then put it back once I have the windshield back up.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tfvkaVHRmpC-aZSiV2TOzobLzrFXNlt3YWqOpIMT8XWwufG_kv2l2rRbduno3OaVtusupHtvc4LtNG3Be_9StgbIWiHtUUkX6umqxxXxNS3RDdH68dk-nVONaGS6GT2fDyHpOECs-TNmqO6_inqxIeSEJHhfc845im1fKRAF771vxR2F6uSk99W3JwPV0KSidoYijH_9GkqjtsHk2EQJs_vmgbw6eaB8Aqa36xsq7G-f5JWxsElaq5KuxQByIzXxmWGZghMUMI_lKVcIAdQREtu9PFUPo042VhPeJm_9_YKCxMgUuSDEIB0WhmxP0PZ-yT3J7hQyzFulfrmdRTl3i-gXmSYYSI2eb_LcS9VOrNOnUtQxzio3glzY89bHmvperXHBn0L-IdQEW4uYFqLbqGoSoQokv9f4VS2svtoIyiGepJgLVTf9FTHmoYTLlVQu2z06C3p57YgxsAggihzXY4RRgBwrc--sIkbYr-hRtnubf9DDa_u_ezhtX_BBtLUEmI_vGwYOoxh2E_2sWO7-ccJvbkyN9pUCCUp7MChJ3oGsZjH1XfVro0CH7EjZXHdGqofUIbG_g3Wak32OaFAfA8ayP8ZTGgfDL0jKttajocInDovLp46Ltw=w1292-h970-no)

We're currently having a heatwave so it's kinda nice to drive without the top on.  Although, it's also nice to be able to turn on the A/C.  Sitting at a stop light when the ground is 120* isn't fun.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z4E5YpcuDrlYGKMp9UhLbD9NzTCDHvbpcU2tp8TlEFRuyklEkqswyQh_OshBxk2e9wo2cPcGmPVRUC2fJW_67dVcHsQbC2Q16pP1zbbc-XZevkZYqPuqBdOLEwERFfMTrzEjn6fkGIna67QZhoZTTo5KMqQwNmC78tUrlyx24zaXc8EKP9BK0blWfjDqYabahy726dAbv125I_h86XcWklt1GoY2ybjkhPfA64Z257TEvTtWQhggGlrQmxjbC2Qus61KaELX64OjTXaWqzSdPYC1-WltEVKUbjidPAQ4OV_4NvA9JE6Z6M330RChSgoRX_G0TRoDkRv_urRZEnIMI-ZLTv0isjqDVuQ2o_ltyhnU8jG42QKNNE-wGqA7crdXf0n1fYa8-yXPps27E697TCqeLZsrxrW2J_zWBuQvgBkuHtTLXWufb8pD0NeaYuMb8dVoo6o52uS_7hQ7BsGbVXktL49NCBM3qLjs5Ukkv-l2lMzb34_fHZldwvrFuVHhZEySrx48_ZSGKkI2Tv1vsrSvWFwADk3Le_mbMmp8erjPeBpQVxpHNv0NBFqt7pMs1N-kIBKwmjiW-ybuPFUZoUKIX3Esgw4_VOjjZ5CdXbUPd89IQw=w1292-h970-no)

Here's the Jeep with the old Bestop trail cover.  I don't think they make this one anymore.  The new ones have the flap for when the doors are off.  I like this one because it's heavy.  It doesn't flap in the wind like lighter weight covers tend to do.

So, if you've been following my build, I broke the OBA bracket as well as the A/C - Alternator bracket a year or so ago.  I got it fixed earlier this year.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zqcSZxLuZADoxJsmjNNAGlSaYnUtRlYrRkboPQiVthD-DjLQgUegly4snS3Q-hc-WIK_68KNN0ltcVcBBSt4_cnxnQ_rlbkcr3RfIvQ_Y64W84kb2HV8gI6FSXwpu4kOmlIbepdd1Sj5ceoaJI9ZWD4sr9Qunqqf7wAdEXEjorXkWi0VEo21ph8QKDRobPtzvHKp49Clb9dGZwCstZaEVM5O2LvOzzZ3uE51KiOQCZKkin_LUcHZuVkmawo_kKJik7mcNUoUtu_Zc3-swglEenXVbmKuhPeMUkfFWpNqJBH8J0Az1damt6H7j8Au9IRO19iZNOHEzQgtRP3uSs50b5rE2Qny9J1ViIWagPG1CMUd3QqbfJXOU4ahgMfYMG5KleU_U1gj-4n8L13KJwvb-sz8AwI_a9Bs8H0ecgObNAexT3VZ24H-L9bKki-_VquNbFHzufZGrqWbgEv6RibfREpXkl2eZ_fbq8aCfTnkKSjc7rKTnjAdZXEUkJRZ5Tm0EU0erCuX8nKGWznTUxIyLDXfMG-AlzoeY-U0YVtdhywVmkp1r1PrQeZITTRHRL7GXuzMl0lVXBjTeEAvOZbwve_AB_pgA-WhvmUNsYkjboHHeIl1yPTxF3Okj7MjCR4uGfPo9djjixnkeI1B5GKsp69fijHFPXYFf8vU51OB3b0=w1292-h969-no)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tRdxnXI1HBqfF-9ZyoK6DFCZV6SlQUKqdhiEN8zvW6U-ulixLxc2Nhj9HqnKeDJqGeu0fs33MYBo3HL16UDcg9pEs9BcXEjj_-7EefAsVVJ0ZoCGEDjyPjm0Kdn13bPnbZw08W3srE-OcdSr_47Z3T4IAaNPVNu0eK2m-y3WX_yewaxgoo1fIvRZ2h8M-do58jaHO9c4PyWWvL3zsfMzGlnGoBUxFfnzse9k6ndB14zk4p3CdXUNMmBFp4U3bdYccMuCl-rx8dWemGVsDuxvkCwFMw6qvqteIdJ_hs-9sF9o9Y8aRp5o6f8eTAUHFtW5Jv3LJFVz6KyMbWbeDeSs_JCQZ0hqnmpKt1th5Y7qEoAC5E55J4e5x-ofmWusbR1csrYCbVaW1YaWw4itKf4JaI50A6vIYSZICIOPcCylKMQlBB9Hkh8mrjYjosldIjdY02LOmYzJyOlGeQHMpE5b2osejgfz5qNcurfF-esal1S4ip7NugjIkBvw6FjHdXzpQ7U1x_Ieo1pxpb6v9ozsB7FzexcBkeq61Nru79M-hLR2oBRZPaYH7KS4OhR2u4TfRRDSt97dUoM6-9Oc8fA_Oz2cPeKWllBdrM8RXjv_q8xynvy_TPu8oGhr8VElEg6aXw6RVeKHq1zte3QQgwZf3lbcxn5NBz8VIirxKdfmUxw=w1292-h969-no)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fqWOcyZF_GgzaVGZEhX0QzeEOZHpGrFtFKWGx6mAC492lVfp3MQ5D9zxEl1Tw6M4rAPIrj0XJwX26I7aZjvY7F2PpNV1KJkLnRsMX2U_k-m0OFwaPWxjnW8iCzgRk7pHUet84LJ582FjMkgeGPRjNQp227N3OIGM1Dg9D6VM30yKMsGxX4ADQWGERte7F6h2ue29jeie3cnSo8DBsY4ok_sn2TKjQ97a10GTcxzLuzvd-FHsnbX13L7YWaopZnR3M88Sj04-cSZcTs5A7Sq6tc83yGtk875P5L-uk--tOTvuiuufcdYOnW-K8zNctPP_1Of223nWJK336zWdydCjjGD08U9MVxIDXVhd_TJNI_0_6vsWSvYf6hJj1qUlCR2aUKxGlMJ8KfN8QR6DzEX7CJ__j4uCTywBBFMyH46NF7-80wwkMGjbOwS3RrM12U0hFdHSoTH0Gd16wfoQYbSAHcKdve20F-l8-B9o3lFMYqPW3mYBxseorrT_RUVJfUCi1_RnbT5mq2Fl4PX1Mnuvc8WOO-XiPUbpi1Jfyl-s33pwZR5X0vraFvYEdEAvpo1Xvmvk9yobiTnlGPjzZybf2BLH6yrByXzBSqRmP1HijfjHlmC5GQ6zLWVb12zQRk0Dcr_qYHl5nGgRV9PiiftRCuayWq-cqJo8hGX91cmGfAw=w1292-h969-no)

I still haven't put the York back on the bracket since I don't want it to break before a trip.  I still have a bunch of little things to get done.  Mostly getting camping gear since I haven't been camping since 1998.  That was the first and last time I was at the Rubicon.  Hopefully, I if everything goes right, I'll be there this time next month...




Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on July 02, 2017, 01:30:16 PM
More updates;


Cleaned up mounting the Hi-Lift so it fits better and looks nicer.  It's not hanging down as much anymore.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QBvNm45OUV9kA7ehkL9Eyhg0ekagTQwjTNrm45FmVsBOMYuMlXeo9dUvZp4ryx2BoFggGtdr_qJfl0tvEBIATXaLLo-6NDP_XlQD07dvifDaoq8TJg7_tt8RZeZio9ouFd02aOmNiFXA_CaVlCP6EGpaQjl3IcWhP1vrzolhvlwBWD7qURBKo1A7fyQkL9-tJImP3oqWgaFeb2sTfE41djoj-DmXvU7oG1Cv4pdBNn_nkYvCVushjNtX7vxFI2eLY6fVn3vNUcv_zD5bwCXzHv79UogLfQI2dWQR1O2in46VUPo6F6XjLFwf3bjkw67jWZXSlQtl_B0PJImhDBnIcqygST10YIsunvLe7psYJvYxeQvqz5NIgG0DK6s1f3978qc0vDiT6YxMmUtQHwkuyWVlddIz-9BpG_W35ItrXR_o-X8Pag9C_ME8FViD9rFxOkOQQVizyWw3Qn4ldEoBlGtzvibggijr1yFSB1jWSvqLdd0w8ACiK1-ASC8GgZX7DSsFfIBhSm-jYt9zgzAsN_HTaqzmR9EpmshfDGcbbbq4eGkOCU0xg5C0pWqNtx3fetU12QmwhUHchpydkIsMoRzF_www5uKBVkj6kkh9NHPU2NeL7kWAaq7nNB4Gflq4pKZeHuFnbU9-CaQSNmlzbd-U8hFk9ryUiMY-sz-aIVU=w1291-h968-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T7wYVbarxKwjcPIVOsuAzorty38tjS6lc-QGvw-Ad1k001-ai74J9Kr1wxX__AAUnztd4MGVQBPsTodUYCrykpBle_fPwm_2NdI-t6eNZsndEJwGx3KBpEGoZV0FIu4l8FA5n2alyEvvSX5alzhYWGQNKuh4q_h_wjm5SwHpfyTxhuLB2B5GJBjSIAR2KwUUy_8-0fk2ExV8coIy_W7iF7qzbD9mbmvwMQHHNu4bgTg3MMqf_3aTvcdv4eQyVTsRrqcCBZFVR5oEUAlM4hK1X-b-TboFU4kqfFWTVBqm6_5wXr6WLYDG3FzTDu5F7wZory7AJd_IjN7cts3RTS8DbPFJ_HjBpxzr8ktQBLSps_JyEN47oQe9cJziKzPdFKzzFh8vQ38NoFrhcLEfbHl-nPcLRVBko5o-eDpbGJlZvJYUqtfCs8Qk8T05Zm6NZbPhwE_Iel8Jh8Tph_fFzeeZZlNnjbZaaVOk4MGBmpOXZmYDQpVtPDNo5xncORUqVfbeQeIrtbQFewUFK3dww0n3cde5J9_P5HjvT87iuaEtV0SBNxbs3faMyxOcdxUwNtBpQnHgv_54zZx2rQ-25ZxnKhnwF4PuhDU1JVCNZ6cQGcDsYqt3yQxJDor8EPPqDlTfx0M51lEm-ItD8ADUv6Uxe1g46hrV3vtJlU_Rbq56nwc=w1032-h774-no)

Also remounted my York.  It's been off for a year or so. This time the mount shouldn't break.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aKMt3mAXseo-4bOB99c3igGFrs59vzYWK0p_UdL9u5YZZ_40gmbdJ6XuD93lPMwEOeGp9DB0gND_FHykBNjqObX8hKzFfHzXsfjPNGtI53_UlaWG3ezaQBYWDTl9S9rzCG-ZaHlf_ZdU66WGZpLj4tJUbJjrNdw8VCVf_COkH2qrJU65pq5uVNxURzUSgVLsaYUWjcLliclZa580QSrzqcjnD4HgMr71kE_bejpYklt2nl5HF2ebeWTTJg6zCuS8wJZ6Bx3HowVdxB874Zx69N1iRaIdgTKPlvvKD0uj9bvv6YK47JsHSX8__UIaA7Ynma8AGXSJ3n8_NVO1-QdhQiraT_bes2W6-cZLhGQDt6QspzDaB4g2edruoLE5LgX6X2-t2cK_2oeUiRzsSzkat89RBf8x2-yFKdExp4wB37WaLMfKe9kMiweWZQNZJSv2dWiZPZ64ZLboicK8eizfwYQzLSB0YWraOEGLQ5eXYHoa5i5rJ-qT2JnZgAa0a1QZn5k1U_DudnLwwkP9L-XaTtqb5fdLxrDsQv9B9M9A3Z5f_RNd7788qiO56-36hdCaWV8XgCPiiHf-pdFXhjXjF69JbS-c3wqytsd_m-0_dy5rKBD8OoL4JWprwrQUQVWu-evph72jLKSooHYmzQYL-p_pSorCLIrS7oN2ofghvVA=w1291-h968-no)

Went to Harbor Freight and got a new hose to reconnect the tank.  I also picked up a air filter which I've never run before.  The 30 wt oil smells really bad when it gets airated and will leak into the air steam.  The air/oil separator is rated at 100psi. The pressure switch shuts off at 100 psi so it can work with ARB's, which I don't have.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LF-6z4FxWOyQwVQ6zG9gXroCwGApbXIcGf1FeV2gczcOptBGdZaUwgkKuQSCWQzZGF6CnP_DAUItBYWWF7l43guk9tCBOW4kZZ_JEFDM_Gx-ZH-JqyGJxMZJd8z3Dvf19ZhE8s6tiO1DouO4ldW7biPVtD3qZvADq8JebhPI9ghr6aqHVKKFbPhaKiC0LRCf-3WviVhdNP4wJffMeatIbY7Jz8uljtJYoBRsUwylc4r1u-cnFQ0ClpudDLMiTHlfP4_h_LqdonAFnXi7zLKHfZmGDZDN1nJZQ8hry852uEpkmLBpp8B30MAGe5ZNqFyz-Za7GtyDWSwwJcUcVGzqorE_OpyMUfntOycEr0c2E31yfiCK4uEKrxomo8vjYbzQpnHqQEA7qJZWuZ6k-SlF2TaRZVRv2a42DHtqZJ89g1dvLX-5JJaFFUmLPjdxB6haH_icKcy5bOsO7ty3LTboh7oTOfuT4KBmoFDvWcbQFx2XAPBfiphKHHT_-2JKkULHR-DGTY7e8zNxct6_wi-NgfzCDB7gH_5Id5WjOaqLWa7i23lu69-4ovkjedMIXVPGkF_OzfTnw_Cz5_P4Nb-b_2H5kLIX7LaZGJWXguj8Nj3B54HiryZzgjl5wnR3n98tXjFdn9mCEsiwYbdiccNLgyJMXoHPE8ZmprWwMROSrDk=w1291-h968-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eDdWrL3FrN_JahkF-3TIIfoL7Shz2aOtnuGO9ke-D2iq6E8pomVnUMB13ubigi4_w1fHiOIa1g1NUVRd7QL9RJPuIvL2DoD8rOQJiPvEk7aOGrqUIhyHuB7ypMrnb2gvJRCUVjGSgQcFAds1WpMgab5DMZEQMgBxbjk8tNo_d90gN4JTnUuWo3kHOmglMSZzIQFAflWllCeBsKmuaS4XqG5WwKNiwMgnZg-93E2jnO2ybQ2CqqK9pchM3W_NgwhlnC9drPehqn1Np5C3vtVK68BdtYTsnBibl0ZbaPJHxAw9g8gSssDRlYCOJeMVjEz-f7dQhCML4yFghaedN9wCuPkZWGjIv0gI3EN1n41SHgeCkEFG1PBr3Qok666NxLPwyHZFGSE_B0HJ4TUG4t_IlYwOGGCpOgTmL13Bz04L6SdPuYOh4rd7StCAZFExw6fqHLqtAtQejiywID73dS98zj7FjMLGn09PMiYze8gPoRlOrJZwGmsNBxNVH1erI4sPuUTeFrDOKE0R60PsFoK4-kFDbDh3-w4-l9q0NVgOTnZSASHbKRGyiyI0neuGKGlB8X-PxwKDiz2HHVqxsbckS8EU-COfMnWGvpVnixaLO4vHJ6n9Vi0PB4MN6TIvmSYSFtjl2pCJSFFW0Z01MOUHPeokic7XG6_LgXOsDxY2zjc=w1291-h968-no)

I did run into a problem though.  My old hose was 1/4" and the new hose is 3/8" and by barbed fittings are too damn small.  So I have to wait till I go to the hardware store to get some PCV for the airbox snorkel and some other misc. things.


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on July 05, 2017, 08:50:47 PM
Did a little bit of work/prep on the Jeep.  The water crossing at Buck Island Dam is still a question mark.  We're hoping it drops below 3'.  News on its level isn't forthcoming though.  So, I did added a quick snorkel to the air box.  Cost less then $10.  2" 90* elbow of ABS and 24"x2" and a coupler to make it look nice. It raised my intake from 36" to over 44".  Not that I'm going to be fording water that deem but the initial dip shouldn't get into the intake.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PNlU6Q35hkqR_n5Eh42H_0JlYzzTEc3CECdUEfeVJc9ySyIufsQ8CQmvRCjjwTKl8fazVZ9AvsJejLSEkx-c5YpCLv9IDCAm8kKzDzNoEP5_XpcQ_i5zPmrIdADLBfrAwwKqicWh6egmGIVA9tPEYybri9XaNyhEua4h296l7cgNOohTybpluPr8iE-rIfV1JidCmLxj01zGqPGpCxAkvodMrmCYcPSfjXfcE0JVwSR_JnbltQU_OvhjO2yvaNQxDY-QQWlL55SvzAy1n9C6N0efS9mtAdXOW22S5ACQjD4P0Ayoy3xZhPKrGaB3qFZVdI7VA16RLAHw59zlYevXhwM0rXjyMhnvSt4DlpcOjYvBUUflBQi0he9gj1Ci_P6zmjmQgq-R9Yq-bgk9dsvHF1Z0OjPQexgumnGOqjq0I7FR41TNNrczqvuJABBHC0mLC_xIat1kylnuN0-iiDoWbarK8a_Az8qmqd6q7bKBTJQIWEnqQI_PZs7yU7Esii88KgVvHJEJ4PUzOfXAlEDT1Oiv-pqj-QKO7cAyWnT1QKxe4kqbvwsL5fmqfZzREXeBCdW9vRMNWYnXhzcWnh7pI6gkxTPRbN-G_tl0lgdxQRZS7kdFBSR-ZrOUSaXJVYEXiXGMVLU6-K7nn-KqTWqZym4D1CkHIhb1pWfTErsd6vk=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VwIbwBpyOUoFGfbvevPX0Z_4CIIUpMop6YpFgInq-CuQx1UskQ_e3uSTB9N8SkPd3hfjDPwMTajvbmDLkQNc4wSbwbG92PnMk1YJaHqdIZZFFuA_K8kzZoChVT92SQkdTGSX9xz6dFff0OUGaj_N1YtnWHD0Q6tbhQCnLUXkYLv90scpK95Gf1EmWKo0mxi5XX1fm1tTWcjwHl8Q44IUQ9XN62RfdXw-m0qqj4exBXjE3LrsqhYTEjGLvLNTqY7igKmhGoMEuS6ukS9PRzReoxdQDOgxQrP5g5MbQQTzQk0RL5K_A4wvRJPGAjTblReyJOjrJedNCsrlJ1M9VrCCNGpe_la5_z-WXcfTZX4hN22RL5yXGWuBUuUJWbTpbwJ7VtUWqwLjpKW0Zs8Lqs-GaWuafFJZX5BXrmMyeLYyikeIPbM4NBIjUvw0r9uX0oaRlu5FwwcZmMXQP9eJBPiQdG62UagW-16PQ3eHphPYef-fotxdA1vEr4tp4ueMtYQUkTraqGH7y8gHWtQLBhv6fI_GBLVYXothclKZwtkmxhmhdtre637Hwsk2yL4RzaJgsmI3tyVQs1wAuhCS6_BHfGr3jojwGjV1TFwiByluAdLrrz7xAbWgSaey3sYOknaO-2ohQ91wt7is8DTLBfpFHobTb485l50K8BqvnZqK_jI=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VZZX8_WbRefPNjCPLG2v0CsiOMOOEXkvmcgq1inYAIZMhNzo53ACylikRK1rodkiUp0ZCv_aXplDiO05TpQ1bF2Pzup25AJ2wYZ0F1-jx7pwVZo4iYHvkvGkvZf4Z_ESybrY89zOXH6anfRMgDGlz_tlpTqnSV16zp8Xd3JeIXofBV6K8l00oksJ0d7yqkMcb_ak0L6G0u0TxGwdSf1ksuubxQy1KlJ6EzlHlxrybKjb6H9qcxHMax4YC4-uZCdbY6ZBiCMo8MxBDUa7zkXEuM9L0mYyi0WhLNCGjR8fsfH2tMRGgR9NaeeU4TeBbxFDKeDvVQfs8sisLKsJ8EwsxyzZFbG987bmlQHGeY1Ipj26DVXHc6oGGO3SrynnSPA3auztTMzaINf0BKduhneL52wEM0YD52F33Frwvw_7cU4IJvmr1BUFGxIOE1a6GNvp5DYsWacMtx3WKjYlOcuKQD92sLYU4FA_hsMKVYQCaWh2aUJql8E3MjWv5-tYcaLMGyFVF66kP26Psf73bkJ_ZQlHysUC8-RG_VsP-PinrGNQMosQ1fbm3ewjr_HUKJTvYXkLB_PGGT6mBaFnZEijV7px1USGapgRGXcjHtKJ9izI0V94ccIbSaA2im59l_lnmb2dc3RVlAggxTob9sZyJwLCs7bpEQ9Nz6h1MrF3TDs=w800-h600-no)

Also removed the rear seat and mounts to make the back flush.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/to3Kc9rf9MboZlE1M4ylz555ng_pTTSnzXmwYxvIoZtKNYDaM-MQ3E-qxLvq8Ehbjbbzp1PaeDGW4qLEzZtT0fyGMxldhu8H5RNQwS9RM8WRpRclOFcZTDYZTalAJh0q9LhpsnB9SY37c5RU62skg8MwcibukV-QwnEW5idcQ4DvDytrp_rN5cYjQQwSRBEtWAf06E1pwig0-eLYqXZPv_J1ZpYVix0iqUNE1lmyRVmZfoMEsnoEudQbOCv3F17GK8XM40IXK7SGSRM93MjZ53ZgGjnLxCfl6KIeCeiJyCn0IKrUKJJ5E_VAtsyabD9FvJGVQGB-81qOiTzZkb1-0vYnznXy0jBtP9AzE355O9x0Kdz-vT22sc_yFcOi1EaRXp6cmK4kFhZdbhAtXb8AOIMCZZljMnAD33Uuf5aAHhtxnKSHwvXrk1NM6I7yN2P051bfEnAtS4FsTXlfjEV8pfnvdQkUVttwUNH_WWLaIg5L43QFfHHT4V21h6G44bRtKGWuVMuTdIkJMEe-5s1TlZwHYMtDv7iaWI3d43bMmVRAAt8rYCcFquJ2Xna8iQ94fl2sLmQyR0gENwUzBZppgnH5Yg8y90hXejVklWNHPP1acMx5iZTdVwfXvTj1FFy1Fr7jMtXNoYw3hIgyQwBwb5c7UHrxLGmcDLEmoEuCLyI=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/l4o06enREKtvcaEBPvirGHrKKRjQ0hWxZY4sxXxbVtX4CVHGql3kfYsL-twGcViSNqOJXGsToIYu2OcQHt90h7eQ0Oyu_NokOFGI7bTJJJpejn1TZlPCfkeWUATOO1NS7pVC4q159c4QcsN9BYMn1xxE6Ds3giuQn84FrZjPdqBgdtEaUITOHgpiqyTSl_bY9hSQmU9tmCphHktVyzNr6NWNRPMgOjvl3yKv-wRPnf4GOFPJQc5bigBAP1U7gGuxXqQgBl3CStWDlYPgzj1bzXgzajttnMD6j5HLnJXQQrw5_9pyjoOa1QcnoXD8TvsEi_iIzQN8uHojI4gBvidY1aJPOgA9ASzSmw8EPGxXgiSa4Hsd1NefPxNuuerHCo34hhJQpX_ev3UV3cMXvJVpMmNl25um1w50e5NpJjK4DvGptFYrf0GjmPq50H6UFF7vtyvdcV-0yHDvUVl16eKhwfS_dkSdjad7gCKC7bYt2b9UbprwxkLkJ6s5TXsoxExmmCN8v09mMX4DO8_0mlQQoDdFazntbV2Fu5VuOkiSZgGlCNhzTXz20Voalpj_cwwq_Zd29G-RpBixYJbztfEtmr7u-mlwss71jztD5eycZYztLi7D46OP1ibOoarR6IO77Qssbx9qrL7HV78enFJ0Zt6FwUjLErg0HJjfTb9Vy7M=w800-h600-no)

Also, had to figure out a place for my shovel.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UPcDgD0T5wl0yhBuyPLaP6qImZlyIh5P-2LeUg9Ea_ybWjfbUr60fqJKWrkZo9Cvil5CNnpX2u9MChdytt1Z0W8CWkOJCcI6pJw6kDtCLm5HMmcP1XseFbK1RTkHLKLt-p3XK6xT2TpwuLB5M36FQx_IrjbU4eEmLn2zP-QBNDM8c-L1s7N3EbJrtjbjgwrWiudt_LA91lJsIpwbju8QzgsDrsMZIx89UsFIOHXVGhuOSDlzyjq8Xr3OHbzls4-24RhUhVYdDST_ZA0gtVqaCQvo9SLzJ_xY0_E-Yts1DQ_6qj09AhnQcAN28gJq7GUqbMsL9mCtm8jFE5IoE-fRIxWcLcUrMlizywx7E8pKwCB1QwjeAznUILUEuyjMWxlTkZj6hSoZX7h3ISsaM1pO14FhFgn9Y7oaiQiS9HMp7o_-9TKHeKRfxIDk6CFhugKS3ACihMjPZmxm6h0FnzpW-Rr57z2EWcpKputbwWOYKyQF8ukzdBCbu6Hy8YJh2vcM5IDmxmfeUkdI7kzzXjZeu4HrFnosndIPhHszhbAzgWcjKwLx4PZuQZXZGsQAMjDtXkb1MJhD_U9uX5ZiXs30jZR19g6Y-weCJII-qCSoS0ksB2_gRKb2MmDTYQc-cad1o-1dTMC9ds3wTlMEiGpbz55K_IaXUHD2eUhg-hs08As=w800-h600-no)


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on July 08, 2017, 10:31:02 PM
Ended up redoing my OBA.  Put the oil separator on the compressor and the leader goes to the T's.  So now I won't have stinky oil in my air tank!  I need a new regulator since the one I have leaks.  At least it it does step the pressure down from 100 psi to whatever I set it for.  I also need to figure out how to ass a hose from the bottom of the oil separator goes back into the compressor.  The wires are a little janky but that's only be cause I changed the setup and I'm leaving tomorrow so there's no time to clean it up.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_ScQVsD8C9wd5-ZvAcC2LsjwQyC73VZlZA6f9rWQyes5hX9X2GjaTj05fg5OcjTtONPrL6uKmp4UxCN3oEERzaAkTF6oHTTPgZ9Lk_yHsTa2t5RJr7GfydWlxKGtzldrd-aiaF-Qb9O6mD8JL1Y9W7LMlf2VSyDEQ9ibJ63XwQJh_C33MbPYapaXUYleblbmk_iic-RGtguu3VNFMv6vVjyP2K6nHP7cjc9jGqz0aN5rifPKAX0LD-ydbEXROoOvutJj8B1uFEaWqbQcEKqLDVfbyi4m2txWV11Nu9ivzBVZyyhN93Jvif8ZsFIHkGoHPCayZ6kf0XzMHRPppojBzg6kdWx864ZLZHL7yp6xqYBTbBLyLFHubF1cgVi8z1wGFpwgOnBQQFhSOX5CAXwxxycBGIDfg_RxRVkFKEn247jgbUI_pqwLZKZ2AoR9LjmIrFXoemt3LXn0f2wNzLQaZD_pEe0IvPW2AGm6eXKEQXBeADW7ptdLhe3vw3jHWtCCyVotP1p0e42Ix2GpNVCI9G_7oYZR_m6yu95fzVR-40MVuym7W3FS-kBh5a6UpI8wwifkjY4NWLlXvZeEqLpAk7SE8dtnjmWxBnccDFOpbTXtaAxywGbK7uBTcN9zyzSUg74sMnAEY2qXnhgkaSZOCy5hkdyq1J2Vjb4zHQqbG8CokxI=w800-h600-no)

Everything's packed under the duster cover.  I've got a pretty good idea on how I want to build a drawer system for the back now.  The problem I have isn't having enough room but rather securing everything so it's not floating around in the back.  I've got a cooler, 6 gal of water and a 20L gas can back there too.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hxby_k0jbBWXiJOl0YrdQTMNBlpEjp8H1I0jh9lx35AOu-Xf3W-pwFh1cVcxTgxo9YgPyr2WuwYqi7NBMq24YuCZIob-aGAEPoOKArweOBMigsHTiKnjtb_CxbE0N-s7IskffR3V3bt1tWrK3y3vYFOBlhugnLKpEoPg81FsRcWupdsqVtNNgGo4RWCka8BnvlxElZM0r9LyWHVZ4vFcJUE_skNjXwRaUA5yC44a_D3XanzfEo8z4kx2pbj-DwDKXkd_ZssNqv2ss8IRhUCYsQEEw3iU65PtRi2fAJjk2qlQqIhgnfrHfkBijd3RHLBw-H7KKQe2I8GPRA1b4pdMGgx0iD0YDpdu0Kvy9jGnrn16m5Wi1DudGnhyOrlsL3zDOpTH239tlzCsq7BZi9seCMcRcKXG5DybYU_aOeo_TbIZtrZgNurXrd8eF7qYMLvsHaBNHOlCSqweXwqVY2o0MkpF9B6wDUFXy0DWYrUbdmi_PqN5Ug3pk91t_6Zkmgc0xZa9KHQtkmcd84nFrDmGGqCnKyXXbcM3lDqkm1o9BaWMQluNj4Rs77didIq7NcbFmwZhOg8V-haNy_CCUJmoQrAoH3QYkx4xobvVbiColRYUkjUZbgoouKintcnc6wFcf8I8yUUxGOPXXX638mK0YZsU_5-EYrcH00IJJsdUPthsUYQ=w800-h600-no)

Also took the snorkel apart.  I just removed the vertical part.  I think it was too close to the bottom of the hood and with 100* temps, I think my Jeep went into limp mode.  It wouldn't rev past 2000 rpm and 20 mph.  No CEL codes.


Title: Re: Jeff's '92 Wrangler
Post by: Jeffy on October 26, 2017, 05:27:48 PM
So, it's been a few months since my Rubicon trip and I'm slowly fixing the Jeep.  It's a daily driver so I can't have it tied up too long at any one time.  When I was on the Rubicon my muffler started making a lot of noise.  Actually, it made noise prior but stopped making noise till the Rubicon.  Turns out the baffle inside broke loose and was moving around.  Also there was no baffling material at all in the muffler.  It's a Borla Cat-Back so it was all under their Million Mile Warranty.  I've used this a few times and they have always been great about it.  It's also nice not having to shell out $500 for a new exhaust every time something happens.

Inside the muffler and a shot of the inside of the catalytic convertor.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I7Ksa2hiMQedjcXiM08fXry077DeL9HaPKKLrohizvYoHpBqbFxHBE8cyItfOzA55_kZ1Ka5TfjGsM_E-ZOjWV7-n0cF2nSwnBVRSeUEAGhM1Ya4NueKF0aXyqoqMieJxtBHMRNIFmYlRbUQxFAnM4Uz7Q8grQeJpqpJNj57uKHjDqb-OncmZHY8yrZU9nR20g-H2oOhKD1fCiITcgICDi8zjUJMhrysGu7ZxyHNUYo8hncTx29dXgaPSc6JVbFKAhV9ZAFWZitLn6gjdI8cIFrCXVK8OGLHUnmGz82QJAZPGewfca23F_eQ95CFcGjI039pxQ6DDyMCNuvJPC0v3pu72UprKJt3pCFV2U_6gclZ5WmXK0ipYhbTaTrDb2yIfKMsEzaIkpVqhfQ6ZfQzXsgujOQtZFPCuGaN-vdp1TdxY06j-68I_xFEkTYdFamRjziCyurPFM_Y0B5QV07u1TZ2Fek0k2fbBiA1Sk579P7aKv-qEG9agH5UrhrGwcdD45rYLe4x5rqLP4Lr1oqCuihvX4Hn18Hid1Dm_qb2lz4T7kA_pZ-0CjMKdHlQoznkUu3G4g8dDTa3TvCuuw2Y7zhBhCf_yLpV2dpR8ikpK8W_8G_gmAswfoMI2V4t2mYcUxVBIofpUcjTKytkS-ic456llY74nGOG3ioH=h450-no) (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ec8phM83fsRC5jUZnu8tMuNYDKEuoV82QAfAFmD8ddiv17vY3mRja5W48UsGAJFyiOu9ZjR3vOAaIudJjmSwPfcx17Pqo7DMHILnVRXwCe4VzrLi7xNHbNVvhN6FmCcImqiCV9viuRDCFCcBU4r08P6mw6OaUyjOEE0ROAxxaX5luFJ07zu_y_dpg7NoIRIpCe1MTjGG27uOv3KzoaIoYyZaG4VL9_nvIT2bkg2yjHrG_Q1pfKZrj4hIiKFyDBP5NAAVIcOHL5Z25FOjgUEnUVWt6f9gAMQ2Sfnpy9GED1r4wIJZmoNaf9DruSK8h4WFuMroKiZcS8g5E9dFG-JO1B-CMeaqUyfYUIqr6-UvM77rEaN5h0IqADoqZoNBSX3ErNN7D2DxSSwA8BfBHVxcjuupjUqr3lhYO_dDQY68bSxEIPXJhw-UlJLOF2bn3VkIASMTtSVrxt4RygazOLWp8nIr1PmfmfEjMLfogSpe8NqIqhZFboInRxyiF5qKHwZqcCROGrK-qvz8NofD-q8d0q9_n53LJ7C5pYLJ6XWu32mFwfzPKsLzcrboS23GtT3WsoLT0_RQTBLjIRRFq2OZ338uFoIwqifchPTrxa_LZDRz8yW2EHhU6O_RFbYSSpfReHE9Q3j420orJLbGNGR9KTuvCysgh-RUH9-j=-h450-no) (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XWiB-dpFnE1vDHhAC18fo_59ATajXpYdODEk_OS7okOE5tTdL4Ixboy5VR7osIsuY2nxVJlbjxByPBLDvuwgcaEfeUy3RDd5ziCAZ32jVHSC00gYt5jxeLP3T7FOlB5oc5WGReOhsGYN1XZZXw9DydRx4pADm5MBsUKVZDR-195Zyyqnb2-1D_M6-3Rbt9rZr8WiJga8E8fbcWHuVs2-gINjdar7CTydi6m9UfwAQceBzKV-JEx7In0DnXKo3v0t3Sf-GUNDJBZSsZ9AYg4JzvqD6OpkSEoiIxeO0rNlMcXhWuRv2GBhAx0P-4RgyxsNarUQoc3VTdIrdui3IA3W2raRCTDATH-FBm4m19_ueOY5pB6xgFyQR_q_ev_vMQjCVD9RDStuDIcNPo5xfjUyxrhCKQihx1E4ZL9EDrMLVoOKkTKzAoxBIqfoZVpsRb8qRmxPT0yCbQoAMu4TPWda5aMr8fsu142tbEYiprf2LYMBTGmToNcio3dBkj4psIE08B-n_bFfdzcNa9EYl2kQPr1cX656s8ZQvSGULw2MlpKE3ckr624BESI4CL7zRVIYelfNNER37vOiru5_v8NgY_TAfH1uW3X2rpI-Db-ReBB-F5NUtIIHYYWUE4QcwZmcOfD9K-6X8kM-WtSOCPOm5XcjM3Y-fUyNRb1A=h450-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/evjvnrzZAfaBanedaoAoH_TGyHRMzAzC3bFvbRzBz140oHfIKRVJ1KzfcjE7h79fgTVXKmtqwYB1He2xa8q6QJ0HEKi-xGwv8f5sph8y2VS-2ExoL94fhHvutw6HmgBbY8VwV3Jg5W32ueoR0VAtfzEaYfn-khACPEd8EpwS8KpF-XwSHvmJRFguuCJSKfPD0FTWZOnLIUzO5-GvqnGS0a57xyTskrwjFGBPabVOyDuWpv84IB9ujmw306VZp_ubjPbV06W3TK-nolHEVLVdOyj33ZUBum0bC88JW88TWXkQOsLfWwLtKY2m0r_xyhy7T5-jgvTyUYB4OIi-a8smwptFvE1NOO7RaTovuBaEMCsWE9vib0gMlf_WtvXZPUSaX78CZHV0q5g5cy8B3tNGORE1XG1U7qAVAEFzPFf2hWnVsBW7Je-fxNj71nEvKSuaP_2l_PPGROVkrcpOCHoNKMON3O8YpW756f0uWPsVDrx6qeI2Dc1ZpvhscxfFYhrEfJ68EnfY2_kGzTJPSF80HttBIQXJZc0xAPF1EvGgEqYlWljy53JHIe9d8FdPcbjUqvJKrng3nlKyvgdQ7ezkNCvcJRb97xqOIsdzDFbqa028mutZ18nMSyzmVEhaLLP06nvauZjTKUVOwQAIBg86rzx-UgZ_h3hWmZPu=w1350-no)

Also lost a grease boot and the drag-link had a slight bend.  Ended up replacing the tie-rods and drag-links with new ones from Moog.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SVtCMYI9SnTuVrEjuhPFa7ji_D90M0-MpHec6-TJDdBxvjeL3J22n9ImLtY6LR_8zq0HO88RsXmBU80tlhzky5JU9c6LNmHPtk5pRLFOkd1QCyTZAdRdBFt52lKCriGJNcCgcElRTQnB0oiQGGQwYBcUNH7pjop-9D_UbLHKw4lhl74fzWvjp6UssSMeElbV7uw_9bjSxuUvfxodM_BTHGK-hBj-wtKgamDMyucoOpdJhghtyPlTH-EjqFmxBa-8ABnf8p8AZmQcRg1Eln5QwoXl2Iz-rTF9TO_XnTt5g1S3kFu9CVh-o5qNNjG07oUnDnv6hygearmh2IGfwFZ-L67jua8cFKS68K42YHwayc8mgi807m69JenEvlRFwq-QM1pMwsa1XpqaMCRGFBdm9bVupMkX0LxOaMbKebtNlFsnYgg7tWyUGgSGQUyMA-PV4vNxH1IAPirHw7xoyzt9Vq2u5cpe9oaiygPoraID7MNQAqvfZn1tgRVXpoYZ0HgtU_cWqR_UBfennLtWOwcZ2pCHj8ciFMBmF91n0O39NCmuLnRH0lLKFBUqLyfvB_XAlHoqOOiRck54kfhtHuO-2thXGpBmePidpecaxnFld2DPQtuGsmfEh4W_BN-bcj3HFJse4BGw5dcVyODDTVvew6ntzUX61y-sneS9=w1350-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XlrZtCfoJ0jmTOGhHu4QXTw6Fpg1VDStaJPq1nIlx0Df4cjCNVFiolLbxgEPe5Hg4fYe4SftsXEpzGFqGG2ruKjiecL0ETRFsSUF7TSQHeP_ZdwIvcodm0qzycJimiBitEw2EHSwbzHEJmscuRD30Gfnfc7pHqaRvqOEozl9YnIp6rleBRBLTuRZ7wGCrLsGX1Uscjhz1Y-EidmqNb_39VaBocbIUlf-dhKlpDT4kFbNDovULgG1WC-vBdKcxou7ydiZ4rT1xLRRdyWFC-h6lBaKInkr5-qnYBfa1MyMG3YlyxXQPZXj4w4YOhOZy_lxnnlWtti3kebUN5vOoh1c1mhedd-0AKPr3RMSoIz86jYXCrGsUHGFKR_r9b4NSrniVvWZJqGcHsudet0ZuaVO9G00dYx52cgRaT3iCAR7o_2hC2DdudyyU_7ogkEfqXdt3_Bju1yJcfctFqLc-K5giTjHU-DydgPWCfboMtgCv2t62Z0IPXBLc-k2I6sIbClb7qM94gzfciwPgtlHGJV4p3yP9qpAWw3pIIqB0rUQbytX5Ne72UQTOKJF2ZAnvuL87ucC69stDed1g962ksOT0mdSkH0BO165btVy5M12gRnwzzL9bB5lwiozEqGYw1Mina5GyX5xKBBT9qCGqVb_u0uUX-EmjlVLXMf0=w1350-no)