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 on: January 10, 2018, 06:46:36 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Jeffy
That's why I mentioned at the end a bit about wheel speed.  I think if you're wheeling in mud, the 2.5L isn't a good choice anyway.  That's why all of the Atlas Pro series only has 1.5:1, 2:1 and 3.8:1 so they have the wheel speed.  Lower gears are strictly a torque multiplier.  If you have more like with a V8 or diesel, you don't need as low gears.  It's also why Unimogs have extremely low gears since they have 100hp engines.

 on: January 10, 2018, 06:38:50 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by chardrc
Great New Thread. I would note that the SM420, SM465, and NV435 are actually 4 speed transmissions. In reality you will only use gears 2-4 unless you are off-road crawling as the low first gear is generally unneeded on the road. As Jeffy mentioned they are not great options for on road use with the lack of overdrive.

Another thing to keep in mind is how much wheel speed you want to maintain in reverse which will depend of the type of wheeling you do. If you wheel in the mud 4:1 low range can be a real hindrance to rocking back and forth with enough wheel speed unless you have the torque to use high range (A problem I have with my JK when I unexpectedly find mud). That being said if you stick to the rocks low gears are a great thing, Proto-2 has a SM465, Dana 18 with 3:15 teralow gears, and 5:13 gears in the axles for a crawl ratio of 105.8:1 with 35s which is great for crawling with only using 1st gear for real technical crawls but if you need to back up it is a slow process unless you jump to high range.

 on: January 10, 2018, 05:48:09 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Jeffy
This has come up several times on the FB page as well as in the forum so I'll give me 2 cents.

First you've got to ask yourself, where are you having problems.  Is it onroad or off?  For onroad you'll want to look at your axle gears.  When installing larger tires from stock, you effectively change the ratio to a higher set of gears. 


In stock form, your stock tires were probably 27" (205.75R15, aka: base stock tires) and then you change them to 33''s.  Those stock 4.10's are now are equivalent to 3.35's.  To get the gearing back to stock you would need 5.01:1.  Since they do not make 5.01's, and to compensate for the extra weight of the tires you'd probably go with 5.13:1.  This will give you close to the same RPM as you would have at a given speed as stock.  It however doesn't account for the decrease in aerodynamics.


Now, your final crawl ratio would be the combination of the transmission gear x transfer case gear x axle gear.  In this case, in first gear (3.92), 4-Low (2.72) and stock axle gears (4.11), you would have a final ratio of 43.8:1.  Now if we changed the axle ratio to 5.13:1 the final ratio changes to 54.7:1.  Not that much of a difference. 

If you change the transmission to something like a SM420 (7.05:1) , SM465 (6.55:1), NP435 (6.681:), etc.. this would give you a final crawl ratio of 78.8 to 1, 73 to 1 and 74.5 to 1 respectively.  Keep in mind that these are 4-speed transmissions so for a daily driver, they aren't going to be optimal with a non-syncro'ed first and a huge jump to second and no overdrive.  Most people who go this route are doing it in conjunction with transfer case gears and or are towing their Jeep to the trail.

For most people I recommend looking for lower gears in the transfer case.   Options would be a Rubicon 241OR, TeraFlex's 4to1, Atlas 2, doubler boxes: like the KluneV, Rooster, Blackbox, etc.., or go all out and get an Atlas 4.

Again stock Jeep with a Teraflex 4to1 (3.94 x 4 x 4.10) would have a final ratio of 64.7:1.  You can already see this makes a huge difference.  With 5.13 axle gears that jumps to 80:1 which is very respectable.

Now with the doubler boxes you can have some extremely low gears which are great for the 2.5L.

Again a stock geared 2.5L with a 2.72:1 doubler would have (3.94x2.72x2.72,4.10) would have 119:1 final crawl ratio.  A better option would be to have them different ratios so you have more choices in your gearing.  The cheapest would be to keep the stock 2.72:1 in the transfer case and add a 4:1 KlineV David.  This would give you a 176:1 final crawl ratio.  The downside is that you'd need to beef up the stock transfer case with a Heavy duty output shaft and upgrade the chain and sprocket set from the 1" wide chain to the 1.25" chain on the Heavy Duty versions.

The best option though is the Atlas 4.  This is an Atlas 2 (4.3:1) with an integrated doubler (2.72:1) attached to it.   A stock 2.5L would have the stock 44:1 with just the doubler, 69:1 with just the main Atlas or a compound crawl ratio of 189:1.

Here's the cavit though.  If you need speed, ultra low gears aren't going to help.  Lower gears help by multiplying the torque.  With an engine that has 140 lbs-ft at peak, you have to gear lower than a V8 with 300 lbs-ft at peak.  Even off peak, they will have more than your peak torque.


Crawl Ratios at a glance:

Stock -44:1
Stock w/5.13 - 55:1
Stock w/Teraflex - 65:1
Stock w/SM465 - 73:1
Stock w/NP435 - 74.5:1
Stock w/SM420 - 79:1
Stock w/Teraflex & 5.13 - 80:1
Stock w/NP435 & TeraFlex - 107:1
Stock w/SM420 & TeraFlex - 110:1
Stock w/SM465 & TeraFlex - 115:1
Stock w/Doubler - 119:1
Stock w/Atlas 4 (4.3) - 44:1/69:1/189:1

Anyway, food for thought.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/v/HmmXsX1auzc" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/v/HmmXsX1auzc</a>

 on: December 15, 2017, 09:08:17 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Jeffy
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/v/qW4lIMA5-24" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/v/qW4lIMA5-24</a>

 on: December 14, 2017, 10:05:39 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Jeffy
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/v/C3ZsPa_cyng" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/v/C3ZsPa_cyng</a>

 on: December 13, 2017, 01:21:39 PM 
Started by 95 Lowbuck - Last post by Jeffy
Do you ever take the Jeep on long highway trips?  That helps get rid of the carbon.  Or else seafoam.

You can check the fuel pressure on the fuel rail.  There's a schrader valve.  You just need to get a fuel pressure gauge or set up a permanent one on the fitting.  That will tell you if the fuel pressure is correct.  Might want to run some FI cleaner through the system.  Or else get new injectors.

 on: December 13, 2017, 01:16:06 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Jeffy
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/v/EACu8ejOAU8" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/v/EACu8ejOAU8</a>

 on: December 12, 2017, 06:46:00 PM 
Started by 95 Lowbuck - Last post by 95 Lowbuck
Well after a new Cat it passed, just barely.
Still very high on the NOX.
They said it was running too lean preventing the Cat from working properly.
All other smog levels were way below average.
Checked for exhaust leaks before the Cat, nether the muffler shop or I could find any.
If it's too lean could it be injectors (original), 02 sensor (replaced after a cracked manifold 4 years ago),
weak fuel pump (original)?
The smog station told me it was most likely carbon build up from running cheap gas.

 on: December 12, 2017, 01:41:18 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Jeffy
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/v/GVu21UadhwM" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/v/GVu21UadhwM</a>
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/v/Ako-zDau8Xg" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/v/Ako-zDau8Xg</a>

 on: December 11, 2017, 03:32:13 PM 
Started by JC93YJ - Last post by JC93YJ
It's about time I started a build thread on here. After flip-flopping back and forth between a bunch of different swap ideas I finally found what I was looking for.  I have a bunch of other information on 4btswaps and dieselbombers (same user name as here), which has a bunch of technical info on the swap so far.  I've spent a lot of time gathering parts to make this conversion as seamless as possible and retain as many OE parts as possible.

To start off, my Jeep is a 93 Wrangler YJ with the required 4 banger. I've owned it for three years already and it's mostly stock minus a rear bumper and a set of 31" Cooper's.
The engine is a 2001 Kubota V2203DI out of a Carrier Ultra Phoenix refrigerated trailer.  The engine had 62 hours on it, which for diesels is practically brand new.  I've had people tell me these engines, if well maintained, can go to almost 30,000 hours between rebuilds.  Not sure how true that is, but it's definitely overbuilt for what it is.  My plans are to make 100hp and 300ftlbs with a turbo.  Speaking of which, the turbo I'm using is an IHI RHF5 off of a Euro Ford Ranger diesel. I will be using a Kubota L4200 dual sump oil pan to make the engine fit nicely between the frame rails and be able to handle some off camber situations.

As for the transmission, I'm going to be running a Ford NP435 coupled to a Bronco Dana 20 transfer case.  The flywheel housing on the engine will be drilled for a Jeep 4.0 pattern and I will bolt the whole shebang together with a CJ7 258 bell housing.  I will then make an adapter to turn the Kubota flywheel into a Jeep crankshaft and make up the required distance to space a Jeep flywheel out from the face of the flywheel housing.  It sounds complicated and doesn't make a whole lot of sense in words, but trust me on this, it's easier than it sounds.  For an overdrive I plan on using a Ranger Torque Splitter from Advance Adapters.

I'm going to use the original Jeep frame mounts and rubbers and just make new block mounts.  The Kubota is drilled along the length of the block for motor mounts, so positioning the engine is quite easy. I also plan on adapting all of the OE sensors to the engine and running everything through the computer to retain the original gauge functions and what not.  Unless the sensors run straight to the gauges and bypass the computer, still not sure on the whole wiring issue.

This will be a slow build that I will try to document as best as I can for anyone that is interested.  Dieselbombers has been a huge help as there's a bunch of guys on there that have put these engines in Ranger's, S10's, two Cherokee's, and even a TJ.

Here's a video of the engine finally starting after battling a wiring issue going to the starter (I seem to have luck with power wires  stick).


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