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 on: November 05, 2018, 06:30:20 PM 
Started by hiperon - Last post by hiperon
The factory are E12 external bit torx.  The size is 3/8-16 X 4", IIRC.  I'd get a standard hex head or capped allen head.

 on: November 05, 2018, 05:01:49 PM 
Started by hiperon - Last post by Jeffy
The factory are E12 external bit torx.  The size is 3/8-16 X 4", IIRC.  I'd get a standard hex head or capped allen head.

 on: November 05, 2018, 06:57:55 AM 
Started by hiperon - Last post by hiperon
Guys, I need some help. My 4-banger never had the original starter. Previous owner installed starter from Lada. I bought original one from eBay, but the thing is — I don't have bolts for it. So if anyone knows which bolt I need or can measure them, I would be very happy.

 on: October 21, 2018, 09:53:17 AM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Jeffy
Congrats!  I'm sure the Jeep will have you wrenching for a while.  There's always something to do on them.

 on: October 20, 2018, 10:17:39 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Kaveman
Hello all  my name is Joshua. Sorry about the late introduction, been busy here in Maine. Came across this site searching for info on the ‘89 wrangler 2.5 I just acquired for doing some work for my brother in law. I never thought I would own one but it has sure grown on me. Probably will only be a yard vehicle/woods work vehicle for now.My background has been mostly chevy’s Honda’s and bmw’s. I prefer to do my own work. Im happiest behind a wheel a wrench or a chainsaw. Been into anything motorized as long as I can remember.  I hope to learn and grow with everyone and maybe lend some info of my own along the road. Keep em dirty!  smokes

 on: September 25, 2018, 06:35:54 PM 
Started by TJsTJ - Last post by dwtaylorpdx
+1 My 94 YJ 2.5 ,,, its pretty much had a nice warmup, its better than stock, but when your starting at about 120,, its a lot to get anywhere without Pistons/crank/headwork.

There are a couple outfits that sell stroked engines in a crate long-block, but you will pay...

 on: August 28, 2018, 04:17:20 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Jeffy
I should really update my build page.

I was able to get the Borla warrantied and was able to get them to ship a complete setup.  The only difference I found was that the exhaust tip is now a 4-5" round tube rather than a 3"  square tube.  Here's the problem though.  Because of my shackles bolts, they go inwards not outward, the clearance between the exhaust tip and bolts was maybe 1/4" at best.  And as you can assume, the suspension moves around especially mine so it would every so slightly come in contact with the nice polished stainless tip.  The other problem was that the tip is angled down and sticks out past the back of the Jeep by a good 2-3".  I had hard enough time not crushing my old tip.  So I ended up using the old piece and cutting off the actual tip'.  This gave me plenty of room for the exhaust and no worries of crushing the tip closed ever again.

The other problem I had was with the clearance of the exhaust over the axle.  I have a 2.5" air tank under there which leaves very little room for clearances.  WIth bolt-on exhausts I usually end up having to revisit the install a few days later to make sure it hasn't shifted too much as it settles.   The exhaust pipe would either com in contact with the crossmember, air tank or floor.  To fix this problem I ended up reinstalling my 1.25" JKS/Currie body lift.  This made it so I only had to worry about making enough clearance for the tank.

The body lift also fixed some other issues like having the rear tire rub the back of the rear fenders while on the road.  The suspension is soft enough in the back that the tire moves a lot especially if I hit a 'whoop' in the road.  I probably should of left the body lift on from the beginning.  I wouldn't of had as much or any damage to the fenders or rockers.

Since I installed the body lift, I ran into yet another problem.  The York didn't have enough clearance from the fender and the way the A/C lines were routed there was no way not to have the pulley come in contact with it if I ever flop the Jeep over again.  It's been several months since I had the York in but I decided to take a look at it.  Ended up massaging the fender some more to make room for the compressor.  The inner fender is tapered like this '\' so when you raise the body up the clearances get taken up by the fender again.  A ball peen hammer made a big enough pocket for the compressor to have some room again.

To get the A/C line out of the way, I ended up removing the stock jack (yeah I still have a stock Jack) and routing the lines under the mount.  This moved the dryer up so I had to remove my fan controller relay and switch though.  I ended up lengthing some wiring and making it all fut under the jack so it's all hidden.

 on: August 26, 2018, 10:17:45 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Jeffy
Welcome!  Sounds like you run both ends of the spectrum.

 on: August 26, 2018, 05:22:08 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by JohnRodriguez
Hello there.  It's nice to find a forum where the members first reply to a 4 cylinder question with"get ride of it".  My driveway has two Jeep Wranglers in it.  A 2008 jk unlimited with a 5.3l motech conversion done back in December 2011 and has over 100,000 miles on the LS, and over 204,000 miles total.  My other Jeep is a 89 wrangler with 230,000 miles on it.  Just this last month i finally did my induction system up grade with a Clifford 4bbl intake (to forever to get one) and a brand new Fitech 2 barrel system.  It runs on 32" bfg AT km2 with weld racing prostar XP's,. Willlwood disc brakes, 4.56 gears with a Detroit in the rear and trutrack in front.  When I figure out how, I'll post some pictures of the engine

 on: August 23, 2018, 08:22:56 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Jeffy
It's not cheap but it looks like it's complete unlike Rimmer and Avenger kits were.  The 5th injector is a better way to do it especially for a YJ which can't take a tune.  THe pictures seem to be old and the detailed description is a cut & paste of the 4.0L.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/v/IWUyswgOErk" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/v/IWUyswgOErk</a>



Safe, reliable, affordable.
Low boost, instant boost, no lag
Easy install, 4-5 hours typical install
*4-6 pounds boost on the stock 2.5L
Utilizes heavily modified GM 3.8L Eaton M90 rotors for reduced displacement
Rotor pack and nose drive are easily rebuildable
Retains A/C!  No relocation of any engine components, uses stock tensioner pulley
Fully compatible with all bolt-ons, 62-70mmTB, cat back exhaust, 703/784 injectors, roller rockers, even cam and ported big valve heads
Completely stock EFI settings and function when not in boost
5th injector, 60lbs/hr, provides additional fuel under boost and liquid intercooling effect
Split Second FTC controls boost timing retard and auxiliary 5th injector control
Split Second FTC is fully laptop programmable
Split Second FTC comes with base tune pre-loaded
Split Second FTC clamps MAP sensor to prevent CEL’s
Split Second FTC must be hardwired

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