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 1 
 on: August 28, 2018, 04:17:20 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Jeffy
I should really update my build page.

I was able to get the Borla warrantied and was able to get them to ship a complete setup.  The only difference I found was that the exhaust tip is now a 4-5" round tube rather than a 3"  square tube.  Here's the problem though.  Because of my shackles bolts, they go inwards not outward, the clearance between the exhaust tip and bolts was maybe 1/4" at best.  And as you can assume, the suspension moves around especially mine so it would every so slightly come in contact with the nice polished stainless tip.  The other problem was that the tip is angled down and sticks out past the back of the Jeep by a good 2-3".  I had hard enough time not crushing my old tip.  So I ended up using the old piece and cutting off the actual tip'.  This gave me plenty of room for the exhaust and no worries of crushing the tip closed ever again.






The other problem I had was with the clearance of the exhaust over the axle.  I have a 2.5" air tank under there which leaves very little room for clearances.  WIth bolt-on exhausts I usually end up having to revisit the install a few days later to make sure it hasn't shifted too much as it settles.   The exhaust pipe would either com in contact with the crossmember, air tank or floor.  To fix this problem I ended up reinstalling my 1.25" JKS/Currie body lift.  This made it so I only had to worry about making enough clearance for the tank.

The body lift also fixed some other issues like having the rear tire rub the back of the rear fenders while on the road.  The suspension is soft enough in the back that the tire moves a lot especially if I hit a 'whoop' in the road.  I probably should of left the body lift on from the beginning.  I wouldn't of had as much or any damage to the fenders or rockers.



Since I installed the body lift, I ran into yet another problem.  The York didn't have enough clearance from the fender and the way the A/C lines were routed there was no way not to have the pulley come in contact with it if I ever flop the Jeep over again.  It's been several months since I had the York in but I decided to take a look at it.  Ended up massaging the fender some more to make room for the compressor.  The inner fender is tapered like this '\' so when you raise the body up the clearances get taken up by the fender again.  A ball peen hammer made a big enough pocket for the compressor to have some room again.



To get the A/C line out of the way, I ended up removing the stock jack (yeah I still have a stock Jack) and routing the lines under the mount.  This moved the dryer up so I had to remove my fan controller relay and switch though.  I ended up lengthing some wiring and making it all fut under the jack so it's all hidden.


 2 
 on: August 26, 2018, 10:17:45 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Jeffy
Welcome!  Sounds like you run both ends of the spectrum.

 3 
 on: August 26, 2018, 05:22:08 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by JohnRodriguez
Hello there.  It's nice to find a forum where the members first reply to a 4 cylinder question with"get ride of it".  My driveway has two Jeep Wranglers in it.  A 2008 jk unlimited with a 5.3l motech conversion done back in December 2011 and has over 100,000 miles on the LS, and over 204,000 miles total.  My other Jeep is a 89 wrangler with 230,000 miles on it.  Just this last month i finally did my induction system up grade with a Clifford 4bbl intake (to forever to get one) and a brand new Fitech 2 barrel system.  It runs on 32" bfg AT km2 with weld racing prostar XP's,. Willlwood disc brakes, 4.56 gears with a Detroit in the rear and trutrack in front.  When I figure out how, I'll post some pictures of the engine

 4 
 on: August 23, 2018, 08:22:56 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Jeffy
It's not cheap but it looks like it's complete unlike Rimmer and Avenger kits were.  The 5th injector is a better way to do it especially for a YJ which can't take a tune.  THe pictures seem to be old and the detailed description is a cut & paste of the 4.0L.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/v/IWUyswgOErk" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/v/IWUyswgOErk</a>

https://www.boostedtech.com/superchargers/jeep-wrangler/wrangler-yj-2-5-liter-4-cylinder-supercharger/?v=402f03a963ba
https://www.boostedtech.com/superchargers/jeep-wrangler/wrangler-tj-2-5-liter-4-cylinder-supercharger/?v=402f03a963ba

$3,295.00

Description
Safe, reliable, affordable.
Low boost, instant boost, no lag
Easy install, 4-5 hours typical install
*4-6 pounds boost on the stock 2.5L
Utilizes heavily modified GM 3.8L Eaton M90 rotors for reduced displacement
Rotor pack and nose drive are easily rebuildable
Retains A/C!  No relocation of any engine components, uses stock tensioner pulley
Fully compatible with all bolt-ons, 62-70mmTB, cat back exhaust, 703/784 injectors, roller rockers, even cam and ported big valve heads
Completely stock EFI settings and function when not in boost
5th injector, 60lbs/hr, provides additional fuel under boost and liquid intercooling effect
Split Second FTC controls boost timing retard and auxiliary 5th injector control
Split Second FTC is fully laptop programmable
Split Second FTC comes with base tune pre-loaded
Split Second FTC clamps MAP sensor to prevent CEL’s
Split Second FTC must be hardwired

 5 
 on: August 13, 2018, 01:40:54 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Jeffy
I am new to this forum, just recently found it while trying to nail down a no spark/no start problem with my renix system. I have owned this low-mileage/rust-free 1990 Wrangler YJ w/2.5 TBI since 2006. Except for the '06 stock wheels this YJ is all stock, no lifts or mods. I find it easier to work on something that resembles the shop manuals. Do all my own work. This vehicle has brought me into the late 20th century, learning to use my multi-meter to track down problems in the engine bay. My first car, age 18, was a '55 Willys station wagon, inline 6 with overdrive. Great car for a young longhair in the '60s. Next up was a similar 1953 model.

After that it was a series of British sports cars, all 4-bangers except the TR6. Learned to rebuild engines on these cars. Currently keeping a '68 MGB on the road as my daily driver. The YJ is my tractor, working around my property doing fire abatement and other chores. Generally runs well and is reliable, handy in the snow here at 6000 ft in the San Jacinto Mtns. of SoCal. Nice to know there is a group appreciates the four cylinder engine.
Welcome.  You should be a master at electronics after working on British cars!  Wink

 6 
 on: August 12, 2018, 10:29:38 AM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by RedRangler
I am new to this forum, just recently found it while trying to nail down a no spark/no start problem with my renix system. I have owned this low-mileage/rust-free 1990 Wrangler YJ w/2.5 TBI since 2006. Except for the '06 stock wheels this YJ is all stock, no lifts or mods. I find it easier to work on something that resembles the shop manuals. Do all my own work. This vehicle has brought me into the late 20th century, learning to use my multi-meter to track down problems in the engine bay. My first car, age 18, was a '55 Willys station wagon, inline 6 with overdrive. Great car for a young longhair in the '60s. Next up was a similar 1953 model.

After that it was a series of British sports cars, all 4-bangers except the TR6. Learned to rebuild engines on these cars. Currently keeping a '68 MGB on the road as my daily driver. The YJ is my tractor, working around my property doing fire abatement and other chores. Generally runs well and is reliable, handy in the snow here at 6000 ft in the San Jacinto Mtns. of SoCal. Nice to know there is a group appreciates the four cylinder engine.

 7 
 on: August 03, 2018, 01:15:11 PM 
Started by TJsTJ - Last post by Jeffy
Regearing makes a big difference but costs a lot.  If you're running larger tires you're already in the red.  Mods help but gearing will get you back.  Electric fan, larger Throttle bodies, Injectors, Hot Ignitions, etc... help but you have to be realistic.  You're not going to get I6 power unless you're going to be tearing into the engine.

Best cost effective option? Sell the Jeep and buy a 4.0L.  Barring that, buy another TJ and swap the engine over.  You can reuse a lot of parts from your 2.5L on a 4.0L.  I've seen TJ's for around $3000 which is double a regear. 

If you can fabricate than a Turbo or Supercahrger might be an option as well.

 8 
 on: August 02, 2018, 06:50:02 AM 
Started by TJsTJ - Last post by TJsTJ
Want to increase power in '97 Wrangler 4 cyl.  Looking for best, cost effective tips.

 9 
 on: July 16, 2018, 12:59:31 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by trailsrus
Glad to be a member and look forward to learning from the community. Purchased a '93 YJ. Body is solid. Been out trail riding and have had a bit of summer enjoyment. This winter I will be installing new seals on the front diff, transfer case, oil pan, main, and valve cover. Also needs some small stuff like a new water pump and ball joints. Might put in new synchros. Good winter projects. 

 10 
 on: July 12, 2018, 07:57:50 PM 
Started by Jeffy - Last post by Jeffy
Welcome!

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