4bangerJP.com
July 15, 2018, 12:39:18 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News: Don't feed the Trolls
 
   Home   Help Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: 50 Shades Gets a Kubota  (Read 413 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
JC93YJ
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 67



« on: December 11, 2017, 03:32:13 PM »

It's about time I started a build thread on here. After flip-flopping back and forth between a bunch of different swap ideas I finally found what I was looking for.  I have a bunch of other information on 4btswaps and dieselbombers (same user name as here), which has a bunch of technical info on the swap so far.  I've spent a lot of time gathering parts to make this conversion as seamless as possible and retain as many OE parts as possible.

To start off, my Jeep is a 93 Wrangler YJ with the required 4 banger. I've owned it for three years already and it's mostly stock minus a rear bumper and a set of 31" Cooper's.
The engine is a 2001 Kubota V2203DI out of a Carrier Ultra Phoenix refrigerated trailer.  The engine had 62 hours on it, which for diesels is practically brand new.  I've had people tell me these engines, if well maintained, can go to almost 30,000 hours between rebuilds.  Not sure how true that is, but it's definitely overbuilt for what it is.  My plans are to make 100hp and 300ftlbs with a turbo.  Speaking of which, the turbo I'm using is an IHI RHF5 off of a Euro Ford Ranger diesel. I will be using a Kubota L4200 dual sump oil pan to make the engine fit nicely between the frame rails and be able to handle some off camber situations.

As for the transmission, I'm going to be running a Ford NP435 coupled to a Bronco Dana 20 transfer case.  The flywheel housing on the engine will be drilled for a Jeep 4.0 pattern and I will bolt the whole shebang together with a CJ7 258 bell housing.  I will then make an adapter to turn the Kubota flywheel into a Jeep crankshaft and make up the required distance to space a Jeep flywheel out from the face of the flywheel housing.  It sounds complicated and doesn't make a whole lot of sense in words, but trust me on this, it's easier than it sounds.  For an overdrive I plan on using a Ranger Torque Splitter from Advance Adapters.

I'm going to use the original Jeep frame mounts and rubbers and just make new block mounts.  The Kubota is drilled along the length of the block for motor mounts, so positioning the engine is quite easy. I also plan on adapting all of the OE sensors to the engine and running everything through the computer to retain the original gauge functions and what not.  Unless the sensors run straight to the gauges and bypass the computer, still not sure on the whole wiring issue.

This will be a slow build that I will try to document as best as I can for anyone that is interested.  Dieselbombers has been a huge help as there's a bunch of guys on there that have put these engines in Ranger's, S10's, two Cherokee's, and even a TJ.

Here's a video of the engine finally starting after battling a wiring issue going to the starter (I seem to have luck with power wires  stick).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZ6W3fbGfik

Joe
Logged

93 Jeep YJ- 50 Shades of Black.
Stock 2.5....for now
sharpxmen
Chief Squirrel BlowerŪ
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 7093



« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2018, 07:04:14 AM »

great find thumb , sounds really good. What HP/torque does it put out as it stands? other specs?

Here's what i know about the sensors (based on my 95 YJ)
Water temp sensor in the thermostat housing goes to the gauge, the second temp sensor on the cyl head close to the firewall goes to the PCM (I think the PCM one is this one but don't quote me on it).
Oil pressure goes to the gauge directly.
The rpm comes from the PCM/ECU (which uses the crank and cam sensors).
Intake temp goes to the PCM but I assume you don't need it.
Speedo uses a sensor from the transfer case
Voltage is just that and fuel tank level is directly to the gauge.
And then there's 4wd indicator which comes from the front axle disconnect.

looking forward to more updates on your build
Logged

'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats dance keeping warm the rear end
JC93YJ
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 67



« Reply #2 on: February 14, 2018, 08:29:45 AM »

great find thumb , sounds really good. What HP/torque does it put out as it stands? other specs?

Here's what i know about the sensors (based on my 95 YJ)
Water temp sensor in the thermostat housing goes to the gauge, the second temp sensor on the cyl head close to the firewall goes to the PCM (I think the PCM one is this one but don't quote me on it).
Oil pressure goes to the gauge directly.
The rpm comes from the PCM/ECU (which uses the crank and cam sensors).
Intake temp goes to the PCM but I assume you don't need it.
Speedo uses a sensor from the transfer case
Voltage is just that and fuel tank level is directly to the gauge.
And then there's 4wd indicator which comes from the front axle disconnect.

looking forward to more updates on your build

Thanks for the info on the gauges.  The majority of the wiring going to the PCM will get cut out, it will be there strictly to run the tach, but even then I might go Dakota Digital and use an aftermarket tach set up.  I contacted them about a mechanical speedometer drive to Jeep electronic sending unit to retain the stock output shaft setup on the Dana 20, so that should solve that issue.
As of now, NA the engine makes between 40 and 50 hp at 1800rpm continuous.  The ratings vary depending on what it was used in; refrigerated trailer, tractor, skidsteer, generator, ice cream truck (gotta keep everything cold somehow  thumb).  It's tiny at only 2.2L, but it weights around what the 2.5 weights, and that's with a massive two gallon oil pan and the heavy cast SAE flywheel housing and a massive 3 inch thick flywheel.  I've been working on getting all my adapters drawn up and modeled in CAD so I can have the parts machined.  Once I get the final designs 3D printed, a new hobby for me, I'll put up some pictures of my three ring circus all put together.

Joe
Logged

93 Jeep YJ- 50 Shades of Black.
Stock 2.5....for now
JC93YJ
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 67



« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2018, 04:10:40 PM »

Update time, I just got my stuff back from the machine shop.  I had the flywheel housing drilled with an AMC 258 bolt pattern so I could bolt up any Jeep I6/V8 I want, and I got my adapter plates machined to bolt the NP435 to the Dana 20.  Ford didn't make the Dana 20 plate easy, none of the four holes were in line with each other, and the center bore isn't in the center of the bolt holes, go figure.  I got really good printing that adapter plate over and over on my 3D printer until I got it absolutely perfect.  I just picked up a 4.0 flywheel today, so now all I need to do is finish designing my flywheel adapter and have it machined and the drivetrain can be completely mocked up, minus the Ranger Torque Splitter. 
If anyone is interested in doing any similar conversions, mainly the DANA 20/NP435, let me know and I can give you the engineering drawings.

Joe
Logged

93 Jeep YJ- 50 Shades of Black.
Stock 2.5....for now
JC93YJ
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 67



« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2018, 04:13:45 PM »

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/v/8MD2z2kw7_c" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/v/8MD2z2kw7_c</a>

Since my pictures are too big, here's an update video.
« Last Edit: April 19, 2018, 12:22:05 PM by Jeffy » Logged

93 Jeep YJ- 50 Shades of Black.
Stock 2.5....for now
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
SMF Theme © Gaia
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!