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Author Topic: Jeff's '92 Wrangler  (Read 13046 times)
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Jeffy
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« Reply #870 on: October 24, 2015, 07:47:32 PM »

Been getting a lot of front end clatter.  Turns out it's my disconnects.




The ends look alright but the center sleeve is pretty loose.



I wonder if Rubicon Express will warranty them.  If not I can either get new centers for $24 or I can get the new Gen 2 JKS's...
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Jeffy
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« Reply #871 on: March 16, 2016, 11:07:37 PM »

Ugh, this is getting tiring.  So we've been getting torrential downpours and the Jeep is leaking again!  Everytime I think I got it, it seems to come back the next year.  I've resorted to taking apart my dash piece by piece to see if I can spot the areas where it's leaking from.  I've got an idea but nothing is 100%.

So now I'm driving around like this:


I also ended up replacing the cowl seal that I replaced a few years ago since I had one from when I bought a complete seal kit last year.  This time I RTV'ed it to the bottom of the windshield frame.  I also put a small amount of RTV on the body of the Jeep where the seat contacts it so it should be sealed.  It's not like I'm lowering the windshield for anything other then fixing the leaks anyway.



Here's the bottom edge of the windshield frame where the seal sorta clips onto.  There's some old RTV there.  I made sure to put some RTV in the screw holes as well.


There's another storm coming next week so I'll get a better idea of I fixed it.  If it still leaks it's not from where I thought it was coming from.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."
jfrabat
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« Reply #872 on: March 17, 2016, 06:04:38 AM »

wait a second; so it's NOT supposed to leak?  After all these years, I thought leaking was just a feature...   wall
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'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost
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« Reply #873 on: March 17, 2016, 10:26:26 AM »

Good luck.  I though I had solved my YJ's leak after sealing the wing window but then it leaked again...
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'95 YJ, 33 x 12.5 BFG MTs, RE 4.5 ED lift, Atlas 4 speed, rear D44, ARBs front and rear, 4.56 gears, 8000# winch
Jeffy
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« Reply #874 on: March 17, 2016, 12:10:20 PM »

I could see the water running down the side of the body kinda where all the sealer is.  When it rains hard I get water coming form the back corner of the plastic dash and spills over the speaker grill.  I think it's leaking from the cowl seal and is spilling out where the wiper motor cord comes out from under the seal.  Where I pack the Jeep it's usually has a slight incline on the passenger side so water should run to the driver side.  I'm also guessing water under the cowl seal is either coming down the hole where the wiper cable goes or it's seeping in from the edge of the metal instrument panel.  I noticed a gap there that didn't seem to have much silicone from when I installed it many moons ago.  The other problem I see is that all the screws for the instrument panel cause the top of the instrument panel to be pulled down so there's these low spots kinda near where the seal is touching the body.  I put some RTV on the leading edge where those divots are to ytry to seal them off.    Right now I'm getting about a cup or more of water when it rains hard over night.  If I could get it to a shot glass worth or less I'd be happy.  All the moisture causes condensation and then mold in the Jeep and it smells aweful.
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jfrabat
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« Reply #875 on: March 17, 2016, 04:03:22 PM »

You have hard doors, right?  I found in mine (among the many places that water goes in) that some water gets in from the top of the door, where the hard top meets the windshield.  I have yet to be able to seal this leak, though.  I already bought some weather strips to try and seal it (along with the adhesive).  Hopefully, this will stop the leaks.  But I am not to positive that it will, as the darn thing is ALWAYS leaking!
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'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost
Jeffy
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« Reply #876 on: March 17, 2016, 04:16:15 PM »

You have hard doors, right?  I found in mine (among the many places that water goes in) that some water gets in from the top of the door, where the hard top meets the windshield.  I have yet to be able to seal this leak, though.  I already bought some weather strips to try and seal it (along with the adhesive).  Hopefully, this will stop the leaks.  But I am not to positive that it will, as the darn thing is ALWAYS leaking!
On an OEM top there's actually a big rubber seal in the top corner.  The only other place would be where the cowl seal meets to door seal in the door jam.  I've got brand new door seals though.  I don't think I mentioned it here but I took my doors completely apart and put new seals in everywhere.
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stan98tj
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« Reply #877 on: March 18, 2016, 09:32:00 PM »

You still got carpet in there? I would just pull the carpet, bedline the interior and pull the plugs out. Works for me  weee
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98 TJ 35"Maxxis Trep.Old Man Emu 2.5""+1"BL,IronMan Fab control arms,4.56gears,Ford 8.8+ARB,Currie/IronMan steering, WARN VR10,HP D30 sleeved+ RCV,Body Armor Rock Rails WISHLIST:TDi.Girlfriend hates it :) If you can read this don't flip me over i dont have any $$ left to fix it
Jeffy
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« Reply #878 on: March 18, 2016, 11:58:32 PM »

You still got carpet in there? I would just pull the carpet, bedline the interior and pull the plugs out. Works for me  weee
Kinda cold when you're daily driving it and you have a water fall coming down on your legs.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."
stan98tj
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« Reply #879 on: March 20, 2016, 01:25:59 AM »

Oh, I didn't realize it would actively leak while driving. Figured it would just puddle up when the vehicle wasn't moving.
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98 TJ 35"Maxxis Trep.Old Man Emu 2.5""+1"BL,IronMan Fab control arms,4.56gears,Ford 8.8+ARB,Currie/IronMan steering, WARN VR10,HP D30 sleeved+ RCV,Body Armor Rock Rails WISHLIST:TDi.Girlfriend hates it :) If you can read this don't flip me over i dont have any $$ left to fix it
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« Reply #880 on: March 20, 2016, 09:22:28 AM »

Been having some other issues after I removed my 1.25"JKS body lift.  I couldn't tell if it was my rear axle, driveshaft, exhaust or something else.  Luckily, I was able too take my cat-back off and flip it over so the output points down directly after the muffler, removing the back pipe all together.  Turns out my exhaust was making all the noise.  The other thing I noticed was how much easier the engine spools up and I've probably got a bit more torque in the sweet spot of the power band as well.  The downside is I'll more then likely readjust the exhaust so it's not hitting anything.  I did notice that Magnaflow sells a cat-back for around $350 that ends right after the muffler.  Very tempting though I probably won't do it.  Oh and the exhaust note is a lot louder wince it's echoing off the pavement back up towards the floor.


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stan98tj
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« Reply #881 on: March 21, 2016, 09:01:40 PM »

Don't dump the exhaust right after the muffler. I cut mine that way and hate it because of the echo off the pavement
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98 TJ 35"Maxxis Trep.Old Man Emu 2.5""+1"BL,IronMan Fab control arms,4.56gears,Ford 8.8+ARB,Currie/IronMan steering, WARN VR10,HP D30 sleeved+ RCV,Body Armor Rock Rails WISHLIST:TDi.Girlfriend hates it :) If you can read this don't flip me over i dont have any $$ left to fix it
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« Reply #882 on: March 21, 2016, 09:55:02 PM »

Don't dump the exhaust right after the muffler. I cut mine that way and hate it because of the echo off the pavement
Well, I was using it to diagnose another issue.  Like I said, I'll probably go back but it was really interesting.  Maybe aim it put the side more.  I really like how it changed the torque band though.

I've got to rehang the cat and get the muffler to hang further down.  Currently the muffler hangs so high up that it's hitting the metal hanger bracket and not hanging off teh rubber bushings like it's supposed to.

In other news, the Jeep still leaks.  Well, some of the leaks are gone and because I'm able to look up behind the dash, I can see what's not wet.  You can see a puddle on the horizontal bracket behind the white and black wires.


The leak is against the side of the body and is dripping from above.

Here's where the windshield hinge bolts to the body.  You can see they sprayed a lot of body sealer and I'm sure they knew it might leak from there.  They apparently didn't put enough.

This is outside, where the hinge bolts to the body.  You can see they use seam sealer on the outside as well.  After 24 years, it's dried and shrank so I'm thinking it's leaking in here.  P put some duct tape across the area to see if I get any more water inside when it rains again.  We'll see if it works.
« Last Edit: March 21, 2016, 10:00:16 PM by Jeffy » Logged

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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."
dwtaylorpdx
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« Reply #883 on: March 25, 2016, 10:47:31 AM »

Hey there, been a while, but a suggestion.  When it comes to sealing the body,,, throw all the RTV in the garbage ...
Polyurathane Is what the OEM's use, its way tougher, lasts way longer and it sticks,, I mean STICKS you'll be wearing it for a couple weeks... :D I use disposable gloves and my fingers to push it in to grooves etc. Its the stuff they glue windshields in with, you can buy it in many good hardware stores, comes in white/clear/black, does not stay shiny. Takes about 2 days to dry.COmes in caulking gun tubes. about 7 bucks a tube typically. I use the 3M brand as my first choice, Loctite as my second.

My 94 has no leaks and funny thing,,, I have the original windshield to cowl gasket..

Good luck chasing the water!

Dave
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94 YJ - 2.5 Hesco Cam B&B Ported - AX5 Trans w/Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch - 4" Rough Country Lift W/Skyjacker Shocks - D44 Rear/ARB - D30/ARB - ARB Compressor - Warn M8000 in Custom Bumper - Reunell Rear Bumper - Metalcloak 6" Body Armor Kit - Tuffy Console - 265x85-16 Tires - 2M Radio
Jeffy
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« Reply #884 on: March 25, 2016, 10:55:40 AM »

Hey there, been a while, but a suggestion.  When it comes to sealing the body,,, throw all the RTV in the garbage ...
Polyurathane Is what the OEM's use, its way tougher, lasts way longer and it sticks,, I mean STICKS you'll be wearing it for a couple weeks... :D I use disposable gloves and my fingers to push it in to grooves etc. Its the stuff they glue windshields in with, you can buy it in many good hardware stores, comes in white/clear/black, does not stay shiny. Takes about 2 days to dry.COmes in caulking gun tubes. about 7 bucks a tube typically. I use the 3M brand as my first choice, Loctite as my second.

My 94 has no leaks and funny thing,,, I have the original windshield to cowl gasket..

Good luck chasing the water!

Dave

Well, the thing is I don't want it to be permanent.  I'd like to be able to lower my windshield without tearing the seal up.  I've even thought about going to a silicone calk since it's more rubbery and can be pulled off easily.  You don't seem much more then a thin film to seal out water.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."
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