4bangerJP.com
October 23, 2018, 09:01:52 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News: Did You see the FAQ Forum?                                                                               ...most likely not...                                                                              ...why not try it?
 
   Home   Help Login Register  
Pages: 1 ... 59 60 [61]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Jeff's '92 Wrangler  (Read 13982 times)
0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.
Jeffy
Administrator
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 14844



« Reply #900 on: February 28, 2017, 10:06:34 PM »

I'd like to find some drive shafts. I need some electrical connectors. I have some that the locking tab broke off on that I don't want to spend $75 for a new one
They have a '95 that's somewhat stripped but it's a 2.5L. I forget if it had driveshafts or not.  They have a 4.2L YJ that's less stripped and I think there might be another YJ. 
Logged

Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."
Desertrat94
Newbie

Offline Offline

Posts: 10


« Reply #901 on: February 28, 2017, 10:08:52 PM »

Is there a difference in drive shafts between the yj and tj?
Logged
Jeffy
Administrator
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 14844



« Reply #902 on: March 01, 2017, 12:54:59 PM »

Is there a difference in drive shafts between the yj and tj?
There are 3-4 different shaft lengths for YJ's alone.  One for 2.5L's and one for 4.0L's as well as manuals and automatics.  The longest rear shaft is the manual 2.5L while the shortest is the 4.0L Automatic.  This is reversed for the front drive shaft where the 2.5L manual has the shorter length and the 4.0L auto las the longest length.  I can't remember if the 2.5L automatic is the same length as the 4.0L manual though.  I think Qtech still lists OEM driveshaft lengths in their catalog still.  You might check there.

A TJ shaft will not bolt to a YJ transfer case.  The front of a TJ is a CV while the rear has a different slip loint.  To use the TJ front shaft you would need the CV yoke off the transfer case as well.
Logged

Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."
Desertrat94
Newbie

Offline Offline

Posts: 10


« Reply #903 on: March 01, 2017, 01:22:45 PM »

Cool thanks for the info man
Logged
Jeffy
Administrator
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 14844



« Reply #904 on: June 17, 2017, 07:34:16 PM »

Working on a bunch of little things that I needed to do since forever.  I had the front diff guard off for close to a decade if not longer.  I had a diff leak and I always thought it was the diff cover.  I was thinking that the diff guard was warping the cover enough to leak.  Turned out that it was the pinion seal but not the seal side.  It was leaking at the housing!  Since you can't take them out without damaging them, I jsut spread RTV over the nose of the diff so it's sealed.



I think I'm going to have to take the tip off the exhaust.  Good thing the tip unbolts.  The bad, the hanger is on the tip.  Gonna have to wire it up so I don't smash it or turn it into a shovel.



Oh, yeah, I took the hard top off my Jeep.  The last time I took the top off had to have been before 2011 since that's when I changed wheels and tires.  The Jeeps never had the top off in this configuration.  I threw on the old duster cover which surprisingly fits even without the soft top hardware under it.  Also put the bikini top on.  I have to figure a way to attach the top to the front rollcage so it's not attached to the windshield frame.  I want to be able to lower the windshield.  I might just zip-tie it for the tim being then put it back once I have the windshield back up.



We're currently having a heatwave so it's kinda nice to drive without the top on.  Although, it's also nice to be able to turn on the A/C.  Sitting at a stop light when the ground is 120* isn't fun.



Here's the Jeep with the old Bestop trail cover.  I don't think they make this one anymore.  The new ones have the flap for when the doors are off.  I like this one because it's heavy.  It doesn't flap in the wind like lighter weight covers tend to do.

So, if you've been following my build, I broke the OBA bracket as well as the A/C - Alternator bracket a year or so ago.  I got it fixed earlier this year.



I still haven't put the York back on the bracket since I don't want it to break before a trip.  I still have a bunch of little things to get done.  Mostly getting camping gear since I haven't been camping since 1998.  That was the first and last time I was at the Rubicon.  Hopefully, I if everything goes right, I'll be there this time next month...


Logged

Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."
Jeffy
Administrator
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 14844



« Reply #905 on: July 02, 2017, 01:30:16 PM »

More updates;


Cleaned up mounting the Hi-Lift so it fits better and looks nicer.  It's not hanging down as much anymore.




Also remounted my York.  It's been off for a year or so. This time the mount shouldn't break.



Went to Harbor Freight and got a new hose to reconnect the tank.  I also picked up a air filter which I've never run before.  The 30 wt oil smells really bad when it gets airated and will leak into the air steam.  The air/oil separator is rated at 100psi. The pressure switch shuts off at 100 psi so it can work with ARB's, which I don't have.




I did run into a problem though.  My old hose was 1/4" and the new hose is 3/8" and by barbed fittings are too damn small.  So I have to wait till I go to the hardware store to get some PCV for the airbox snorkel and some other misc. things.
« Last Edit: July 02, 2017, 01:46:02 PM by Jeffy » Logged

Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."
Jeffy
Administrator
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 14844



« Reply #906 on: July 05, 2017, 08:50:47 PM »

Did a little bit of work/prep on the Jeep.  The water crossing at Buck Island Dam is still a question mark.  We're hoping it drops below 3'.  News on its level isn't forthcoming though.  So, I did added a quick snorkel to the air box.  Cost less then $10.  2" 90* elbow of ABS and 24"x2" and a coupler to make it look nice. It raised my intake from 36" to over 44".  Not that I'm going to be fording water that deem but the initial dip shouldn't get into the intake.





Also removed the rear seat and mounts to make the back flush.




Also, had to figure out a place for my shovel.

Logged

Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."
Jeffy
Administrator
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 14844



« Reply #907 on: July 08, 2017, 10:31:02 PM »

Ended up redoing my OBA.  Put the oil separator on the compressor and the leader goes to the T's.  So now I won't have stinky oil in my air tank!  I need a new regulator since the one I have leaks.  At least it it does step the pressure down from 100 psi to whatever I set it for.  I also need to figure out how to ass a hose from the bottom of the oil separator goes back into the compressor.  The wires are a little janky but that's only be cause I changed the setup and I'm leaving tomorrow so there's no time to clean it up.



Everything's packed under the duster cover.  I've got a pretty good idea on how I want to build a drawer system for the back now.  The problem I have isn't having enough room but rather securing everything so it's not floating around in the back.  I've got a cooler, 6 gal of water and a 20L gas can back there too.



Also took the snorkel apart.  I just removed the vertical part.  I think it was too close to the bottom of the hood and with 100* temps, I think my Jeep went into limp mode.  It wouldn't rev past 2000 rpm and 20 mph.  No CEL codes.
Logged

Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."
Jeffy
Administrator
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 14844



« Reply #908 on: October 26, 2017, 05:27:48 PM »

So, it's been a few months since my Rubicon trip and I'm slowly fixing the Jeep.  It's a daily driver so I can't have it tied up too long at any one time.  When I was on the Rubicon my muffler started making a lot of noise.  Actually, it made noise prior but stopped making noise till the Rubicon.  Turns out the baffle inside broke loose and was moving around.  Also there was no baffling material at all in the muffler.  It's a Borla Cat-Back so it was all under their Million Mile Warranty.  I've used this a few times and they have always been great about it.  It's also nice not having to shell out $500 for a new exhaust every time something happens.

Inside the muffler and a shot of the inside of the catalytic convertor.




Also lost a grease boot and the drag-link had a slight bend.  Ended up replacing the tie-rods and drag-links with new ones from Moog.


Logged

Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."
Jeffy
Administrator
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 14844



« Reply #909 on: August 28, 2018, 04:17:20 PM »

I should really update my build page.

I was able to get the Borla warrantied and was able to get them to ship a complete setup.  The only difference I found was that the exhaust tip is now a 4-5" round tube rather than a 3"  square tube.  Here's the problem though.  Because of my shackles bolts, they go inwards not outward, the clearance between the exhaust tip and bolts was maybe 1/4" at best.  And as you can assume, the suspension moves around especially mine so it would every so slightly come in contact with the nice polished stainless tip.  The other problem was that the tip is angled down and sticks out past the back of the Jeep by a good 2-3".  I had hard enough time not crushing my old tip.  So I ended up using the old piece and cutting off the actual tip'.  This gave me plenty of room for the exhaust and no worries of crushing the tip closed ever again.






The other problem I had was with the clearance of the exhaust over the axle.  I have a 2.5" air tank under there which leaves very little room for clearances.  WIth bolt-on exhausts I usually end up having to revisit the install a few days later to make sure it hasn't shifted too much as it settles.   The exhaust pipe would either com in contact with the crossmember, air tank or floor.  To fix this problem I ended up reinstalling my 1.25" JKS/Currie body lift.  This made it so I only had to worry about making enough clearance for the tank.

The body lift also fixed some other issues like having the rear tire rub the back of the rear fenders while on the road.  The suspension is soft enough in the back that the tire moves a lot especially if I hit a 'whoop' in the road.  I probably should of left the body lift on from the beginning.  I wouldn't of had as much or any damage to the fenders or rockers.



Since I installed the body lift, I ran into yet another problem.  The York didn't have enough clearance from the fender and the way the A/C lines were routed there was no way not to have the pulley come in contact with it if I ever flop the Jeep over again.  It's been several months since I had the York in but I decided to take a look at it.  Ended up massaging the fender some more to make room for the compressor.  The inner fender is tapered like this '\' so when you raise the body up the clearances get taken up by the fender again.  A ball peen hammer made a big enough pocket for the compressor to have some room again.



To get the A/C line out of the way, I ended up removing the stock jack (yeah I still have a stock Jack) and routing the lines under the mount.  This moved the dryer up so I had to remove my fan controller relay and switch though.  I ended up lengthing some wiring and making it all fut under the jack so it's all hidden.

« Last Edit: September 02, 2018, 07:23:09 PM by Jeffy » Logged

Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."
Pages: 1 ... 59 60 [61]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
SMF Theme © Gaia
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!