Topic: Turbochargers

[chardrc]

I think someone talked about using a head gasket spacer / shim in a thread here but don't remember who or what build. It has been a few years

[sharpxmen]

Also has anyone thought of adding a head gasket spacer? I had to install one the other day on a 3.0l Mitsubishi v6 in a cat GP40 lift truck. My thoughts were instead of installing one to repair a bad head it could be just to lift one up? .020 plus some piston machining get close? I understand that one would need adjustable push rods also.

Dave

Occasionally, a technician may have to machine a cylinder head that's already been machined one or more times. This can cause such problems as mechanical interference of the valves and pistons, detonation or valve timing retardation in overhead-cam engines. The corrective method here is to add a spacer shim between the head gasket and the block to raise the head up to the original specification. Most shims are .020 inch thick, but other sizes may be available, depending on the block.

you're probably better off machining the piston dish like the stroker guys do with the L6, but you can add a spacer and you are correct about the need for pushrods.

[h20pumper]

howdy,

new member turboing a 99 tj

has anyone used the fuel controller by dccdpro?

http://dccdpro.com/zcart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=6

Looks like i can just add a 0-5v manifold pressure sensor and run a booster pump inline. Then controller the booster pump based on manifold pressure. Similar to a fmu but electrical

[sharpxmen]

howdy,

new member turboing a 99 tj

has anyone used the fuel controller by dccdpro?

http://dccdpro.com/zcart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=6

Looks like i can just add a 0-5v manifold pressure sensor and run a booster pump inline. Then controller the booster pump based on manifold pressure. Similar to a fmu but electrical

I read the description in the link so don't quote me on it but based on that is not similar to an fmu, the pump controller would adjust the flow while the fmu would adjust the pressure, they would rather complement each-other than be equivalent to each other.

[h20pumper]

that is what I thought. do you happen to more about the aem fic on a tj. with the cost of the pump, the controller and the transducer the aem is the same price.

[h20pumper]

I read the description in the link so don't quote me on it but based on that is not similar to an fmu, the pump controller would adjust the flow while the fmu would adjust the pressure, they would rather complement each-other than be equivalent to each other.

the plan was under non boost conditions, the inline pump has a internal bypass. When under boost the transducer sends a signal to inline pump which is now a choke point and creates pressure, the intank become a lift pump. So the plan was .50v the pump would start at 5v or my max boost the pump would be on full. But Im more interested in the AEM FIC now. The fuel controller i linked i found is not adjustable by me. I give them my spec and they burn a chip at $25 a piece. So it would be some trial and error. Other problem is a the gm 2-3 bar map are not zero volt at 0 psi. So It I would need a industrial transducer. I can get one for my spec 0-15psi 0-5v for $100. At that point its $170+100+100+25, So i might as well cut into my harness and get the AEM FIC.

[sharpxmen]

the plan was under non boost conditions, the inline pump has a internal bypass. When under boost the transducer sends a signal to inline pump which is now a choke point and creates pressure, the intank become a lift pump. So the plan was .50v the pump would start at 5v or my max boost the pump would be on full. But Im more interested in the AEM FIC now. The fuel controller i linked i found is not adjustable by me. I give them my spec and they burn a chip at $25 a piece. So it would be some trial and error. Other problem is a the gm 2-3 bar map are not zero volt at 0 psi. So It I would need a industrial transducer. I can get one for my spec 0-15psi 0-5v for $100. At that point its $170+100+100+25, So i might as well cut into my harness and get the AEM FIC.

all the map sensors are (pretty much) set to 0v at absolute vacuum or zero absolute pressure (which is 0psi or 0bar or 0Mpa and so forth) - you are thinking 0psi as in the atmospheric pressure at sea level (which is 14.7 psi)? None of them would be 0v at that value - you need a MAP sensor that is functioning for the entire range (from all the vacuum you get with the throttle closed which should be somewhere around -20inHg) to the full boost pressure (which would be 14.7psi+boost or 1bar+boost).
if you're talking 15psi of boost (so 29.7psi absolute pressure or something like 2bar) I would maybe rethink the injectors but to be honest I think that's too much for the compression ratio you are starting with.

[h20pumper]

found a really good price on an aem fic, so I'm going that route. the fuel controller map sensor is independent of the factory map. at 0psi the gm 2bar is at 2.45v. the lowest 0-5v pressure transducer that I could affordably find was 0-15 Psi. I wasn't planning on going over 7psi. I might even get an adjustable wastegate.

[sharpxmen]

found a really good price on an aem fic, so I'm going that route. the fuel controller map sensor is independent of the factory map. at 0psi the gm 2bar is at 2.45v. the lowest 0-5v pressure transducer that I could affordably find was 0-15 Psi. I wasn't planning on going over 7psi. I might even get an adjustable wastegate.

it has a built-in map sensor from what I recall, would replace your stock MAP sensor
0 psi is 1 bar absolute pressure so the 2.45v is about 1/2 scale on the 0 to 2 bar - something to keep in mind with the vacuum/boost gauge showing relative pressure to the atmospheric pressure and the map sensor measuring absolute pressure.

[h20pumper]

Yeah the aem has a internal map sensor. I called and talked to them today. You tap into the harness, they mentioned a few places to call about the harness its no longer available by them. But you can control injector pulse +/- 100% and have the ability to retard timing. When you turn it on, the software ask what size the factory injectors are and what size are installed. It goes from there. Also since i have an aem wideband coming there is an aem wideband input. But it is just for reference in the software, will not automatically adjust.

[ericegs]

Quick question for the turbo 2.5 guys. How are yall running your crank vents? I am getting a ton of blow by causing me to have to change oil a lot. Are you guys just putting a check valve on the hose that goes to the manifold? Also where/are you pulling vacuum while under boost?

[sharpxmen]

you should put a check valve on the line from the metered brass fitting (that will most likely take care of your problem and also stop the pressure bleeding thru the valve cover back in front of the turbo), but not on the large tube as it will cause your crankcase to pressurize and blow oil by the seals.

[ericegs]

Thank ya!

[sharpxmen]

Thank ya!

no worries - just to make sure I was clear: you want to install it so it will flow from valve cover thru the small brass fitting, thru the check valve and then to intake manifold (so you get air when no boost but vac in the intake) and blocking the other way from intake to valve cover (so boost from intake does not bleed back thru valve cover and out the other side).

[ericegs]

no worries - just to make sure I was clear: you want to install it so it will flow from valve cover thru the small brass fitting, thru the check valve and then to intake manifold (so you get air when no boost but vac in the intake) and blocking the other way from intake to valve cover (so boost from intake does not bleed back thru valve cover and out the other side).

Thats pretty much what I did, but I threw an oil catch can in the mix as well for good measure