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Author Topic: Future Floor Wax as an Automotive Paint Protectant/Restorer  (Read 7421 times)
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chrisfranklin
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« Reply #15 on: March 09, 2006, 02:40:03 AM »

Going on three weeks with this stuff on the Jeep and I'd definitely say the Future gets points for durability.  Gone through two rains and a car wash and the tires still look like I just hit them with Armor All; the body finish is still deep and water beads.

I didn't do a perfect job applying the Future the first go around; I used a bristle brush and, as a result, I can still see evidence of brush marks on the hood in the light.  Will use a foam brush on round two which should effectively eliminate any brush streaks.  But, I'm fairly impressed and will work on rounding up some photos of my very, yes, "new-looking,"
YJ. lol
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jackhammer
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« Reply #16 on: March 09, 2006, 05:04:42 PM »

photos,seeing is beleiving
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chrisfranklin
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« Reply #17 on: April 28, 2006, 10:28:13 AM »

So, its been a couple of months since I posted on the Future Floor Wax.  And, I have since drawn a few conclusions about the stuff.  First off, I live in Los Angeles where the smog and pollution, etc is the worst of any city in this country (but apparently is gradually improving), so the average car may be exposed to more than the average amount of environmental fall-out.

Anyway, did the Future wax on the Jeep in February and it looked like a million bucks, people coming up and going, "damn, did you get it painted, looks great!"  So, I was really positive on the stuff.  Only trick is that strange white spots began to appear on the hood after about a month or so; the best I could tell it was the floor wax reacting to something in the air or in a liquid it had been exposed to (Like I said, LA so it could have been frigging anything causing it).

I did also use this Future floor wax on the tires, flares and other rubber surfaces and it definitely gave a great shine that lasted about 10 times longer than armor all; no problem with spots there either, probably because those surfaces didn't receive any exposure to the whatever hit the hood.  

I didn't have any trouble removing the floor wax from the paint during a recent polish job and it doesn't appear to harm the paint.  So you may want to give it a go if you live in clearer, cleaner environs.

Anyway, in sum, I'll probably keep using the Future on the dark, rubber surfaces and, instead use (the frigging expensive) Liquid Glass for the paint (Liquid Glass is Acrylic-based like Future Floor Wax, but its designed for use on cars and gets rave reviews, so hopefully its been engineered to handle environmental fallout.
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Mozman68
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« Reply #18 on: April 28, 2006, 10:52:19 AM »

Still useless without pics...what's the deal-i-o?? :?:
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2000 TJ...4" Full Traction long arm, ORO swayloc, HP D60's front and rear, 37x12.5 KM2 MT's on 17x9 AR Teflon Chambers, MasterCraft Baja RS front seats, ARB lockers front and rear, JCR off road flat fenders, sliders, rear fenders installed over PSC crusher corners
chrisfranklin
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« Reply #19 on: April 29, 2006, 02:34:52 PM »

You will get no pictures and Like It, mozman68!!  lol

(But, I will say this, if people post opinions or experiences online without pictures, it doesn't bother me...so, understandably, this is how I "do unto others."  However, Rome being Rome, I am looking for an opportunity to incorporate digital photos in to my online communications repertoire.  Could be sooner than you think)
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SMC4WD
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« Reply #20 on: April 29, 2006, 05:34:38 PM »

Whoa...  Looks like Chris is trying to make his way boldly into the 20th century  Wink

If you can't get a digital picture for us, do you thing you could draw a little something?
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chrisfranklin
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« Reply #21 on: April 29, 2006, 08:01:10 PM »

Nah, SMC, all I'm saying is that if you guys don't put up photos, I'll buy what you are talking about...You are in my "Circle of Trust"  lol

(First photo I provide will show my Jeep and me giving one fingered salute to all the unfaithful :)
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JWJeeper94
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« Reply #22 on: May 04, 2006, 04:06:29 AM »

I would remove ALL wax before doing this , otherwise wouldn't it be like painting oil over latex ? I don't know , there isn't that much metal to a jeep waxing doesn't take that long, however if thats what your after is a shine more power to you and your quest, hope it works out.
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Guardian7
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« Reply #23 on: September 17, 2006, 12:18:46 PM »

Okay Chris it's now September, how is the Future Wax looking on your Jeep? Is it turning yellow or flaking? Almost forgot, what color is your Jeep? we need to test this on a white Jeep or we may not see stuff like yellowing.
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2006 TJ, 6 Cyl, Auto, 4"Full Traction Tri-linked, GenRight Rockers, RE GEN2 QD’s. 9.5ti
chrisfranklin
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« Reply #24 on: September 17, 2006, 02:36:32 PM »

Decided to try the future floor wax based on a write up I saw on a different jeep 4x4 site, don't recall which one.  whole point of doing it is that its supposed to serve as a cheap way, 27 oz for $6, to get an acrylic based wax coating vs,. paying out the nose for the expensive 16 oz of $20 liquid glass product (an acrylic-based auto finishing product).

Acrylic waxes (floor or car) are supposedly self-leveling, so you get a "glass-like" finish or whatever.  

Guardian, since you are in So Cal, I probably wouldn't recommend using the Future Wax.  It's acrylic, but I think pollutants in the air may react with the wax and screw up the finish in So Cal.  Did mine and it looked like a million for a few days and then very pronounced white spots (not water spots) started to appear - perhaps the wax reacting to something.  Tires and plastic surfaces stayed ok, though.

So, frankly, I'd just use Future on your tires, if anything if you are looking for an Armor-all finish that lasts for like 3 months vs the typical few days.   I'm not using Future except for tires if I am in a Waxing mood.  I use Liquid Glass (expensive, but you can get 2 or 3 outstanding wax jobs for your $20 and it doesn't seem to react to anything)
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Guardian7
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« Reply #25 on: September 17, 2006, 03:22:30 PM »

My Red paint is looking oxidized on my hood and I want something to bring back the shine. How does the Liquid Glass compare to the future wax?
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2006 TJ, 6 Cyl, Auto, 4"Full Traction Tri-linked, GenRight Rockers, RE GEN2 QD’s. 9.5ti
Jeffy
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« Reply #26 on: September 17, 2006, 03:25:03 PM »

Quote from: "Guardian7"
My Red paint is looking oxidized on my hood and I want something to bring back the shine. How does the Liquid Glass compare to the future wax?


How about just wet sanding and polishing it.
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Guardian7
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« Reply #27 on: September 17, 2006, 03:58:39 PM »

I would need to go buy a buffing/polishing unit because doing by hand would take alot hard work and long hours. I understand there is a learning curve with this type of work and I have never been into body/paint work much. My entire hood and the front top of the fenders look faded and oxidized.
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2006 TJ, 6 Cyl, Auto, 4"Full Traction Tri-linked, GenRight Rockers, RE GEN2 QD’s. 9.5ti
chrisfranklin
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« Reply #28 on: September 17, 2006, 06:46:40 PM »

Guardian, I'd use the Liquid Glass wax, not the Future wax.  I've use both and like the Liquid Glass better, just because it does not appear to react to the outdoors environment at all in So Cal.

Thing is Liquid Glass is just an acrylic wax and not a "cleaner" or "polish" type wax.  So, probably a good idea to sand/polish you ride and then apply Liquid glass, or skip the sanding and just  apply Polish and Liquid Glass.

Course, you could just skip all that and get decent results just doing a single coat of Mother's California Gold Carnuba Wax/Cleaner.  It's one of the best non-acrylic waxes out there; won't last as long as Liquid Glass, but it ain't bad and does a pretty good polish job too.
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Jesse-James
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« Reply #29 on: September 17, 2006, 11:47:40 PM »

Only huge mistake made while buffing is heat. As long as you keep feeling the hood while you do it and not concentrate on one spot you should be fine. Keep the paper good and wet while sanding and keep that buffer moving and you should be fine. If you get nervous about burning through the paint you can also turn down the speed. It'll just take longer.
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