4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: bammerman on June 25, 2011, 01:56:06 PM
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Can an 88-89 xj fuel filter fit in a 90 yj
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Are the inlet and outlet different Sizes. Never mind. That would depend on what engine is in the XJ.
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Can an 88-89 xj fuel filter fit in a 90 yj
Easiest way to find out would be to go to Napa, kragen, etc's website and see if they cross reference.
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I need to change the fuel filter on my yj, thank you for reminding me
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I need to change the fuel filter on my yj, thank you for reminding me
Don't forget to get that stupd elbow.
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I need to change the fuel filter on my yj, thank you for reminding me
How many miles are they suppossed to last, anyway? I changed mine about 20K miles ago...
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According to the factory service manual, maintenance schedule B, the fuel filter should be replaced at 60,000 miles. Of course it should also be replaced if you suspect fuel contamination. This job is straightforward but messy with hazardous material involved. Tools required are a 10 mm. socket, needle-nose pliers, maybe a small flat screwdriver, plenty of rags, a spill container and safety goggles. You can go to Mopar for an OEM part or to an auto parts store for a like replacement such as this Fram part number G-7399.
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How many miles are they suppossed to last, anyway? I changed mine about 20K miles ago...
I'm not sure, but I know mine most likely needs changed heh
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I do not think they are compitable, fack!
90 YJ
Part Number: BSH N69301
Product Line: Bosch
88 xj
Part Number: BSH N69302
Product Line: Bosch
This is from Napa
Bummer too just got the jeep home and the 2.5 exhaust might not work with the 4.0 and same with the radiator. it gets really hot with an electric fan too. Might have to put the old belt powered one back on :(
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it gets really hot with an electric fan too. Might have to put the old belt powered one back on :(
1. make sure the fan is not spinning backwards (airflow should be thru the radiator towards the engine bay)
2. verify when the fan is turned on (what temperature)
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What all have you done to the radiator/ Cooling system lately.
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Bummer too just got the jeep home and the 2.5 exhaust might not work with the 4.0 and same with the radiator. it gets really hot with an electric fan too. Might have to put the old belt powered one back on :(
You wanted to use a XJ exhaust and radiator on your YJ? :uhoh: I can tell you that it won't work.
Early XJ's were prone to overheating as well. It's so common you could say it was the norm.
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All I did was flush it and add a fan, well the mechanic added the fan. Still using the original 2.5 exhaust and radiator from my 90 YJ with the 88 4.0
This is one of my few issues. at least it goes down the street, but back fires alot :(
the 2.5 exhaust might not handle the 4.0 and will need to be upgraded. The cooling system, and the fuel pump. If it isn't a crossover part I will have to get a new tank and fuel pump. This is what I get for listening to the first mec in nevada saying the 88 renix is fine, work just fine. fml
* I knew I should have went to mec school instead of computers... some days at least
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It's a big jump from your original question to this new predicament. If you were trying to get parts fro teh YJ you would have been better off just buying the parts. Fuel filters get replaced once in a while and seeing as how the XJ is older then your YJ, it would not be advisable even if they were compatible. Not to mention you were comparing a TBI 2.5L XJ to a MPFI Renix YJ. Just about everything is different between them. At least if you want it to be bolt-on.
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People keep getting the models confused and it could be because of me so let me go back to step one.
2.5 YJ 1990 was the original engine - everything else on it is for the 2.5 minus the engine, trans, t-case
donor 1988 cherokee, I have the engie from that - a Ax15 and new Tcase.
So radiator, exhaust, fuel system (tank, filter, pump) is off a 2.5 1990 YJ.
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People keep getting the models confused and it could be because of me so let me go back to step one.
2.5 YJ 1990 was the original engine - everything else on it is for the 2.5 minus the engine, trans, t-case
donor 1988 cherokee, I have the engie from that - a Ax15 and new Tcase.
So radiator, exhaust, fuel system (tank, filter, pump) is off a 2.5 1990 YJ.
how thick is your radiator? the 2.5 came with 2 different rads, 1 was the same as the 4.0 and the actual 2.5 one which was 5/8'' thick core (if i recall correctly) - if you have the latter then you need to replace it with a 4.0 one which is a thicker core
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I know it is a single core radiator. If I take a picture would that help? Not sure how to measure it. Oh one more thing if you all know. If I got a 4.2 fuel pump would it be the same as one for a 4.0 roughly? I was told the 4.2 will fit in a 2.5 gas tank.
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I know it is a single core radiator. If I take a picture would that help? Not sure how to measure it. Oh one more thing if you all know. If I got a 4.2 fuel pump would it be the same as one for a 4.0 roughly? I was told the 4.2 will fit in a 2.5 gas tank.
The 2.5L YJ and the 4.2L YJ as well as the 4.0L YJ all use pretty much the same exhaust. There is no difference other then the exhaust manifold and down pipe.
The 2.5L will usually have a 1 core or 2 core radiator. A 4.0L will have a 3 core normally.
The 4.2L is a carbureted engine and does not need as high fuel pressure. Also the 4.2L uses a mechanical fuel pump.
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Oh and just use the YJ's fuel filter.
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I know it is a single core radiator. If I take a picture would that help? Not sure how to measure it. Oh one more thing if you all know. If I got a 4.2 fuel pump would it be the same as one for a 4.0 roughly? I was told the 4.2 will fit in a 2.5 gas tank.
i think even the thin ones are 2 core - depending on the year you can even have a thick 1 core radiator (1.5'' or 1.75'' can't recall, I've seen them in the late TJs) - just different manufacturer
it's the thickness of the core that matters most, so like i said, if you have the thin core rad that was exclusive on the 2.5L you need to swap it with a 4.0 radiator.
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The easiest way to tell is to look at the core covers and the lower tank. If there is a 1/2" gap where the core stops short then it's a 2.5L core. The 4.0L core will cover the tank.
My OE radiator was a single core but it was a long tube. My newer radiator is a twin core but the cores are shorter so there is no real difference.
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The easiest way to tell is to look at the core covers and the lower tank. If there is a 1/2" gap where the core stops short then it's a 2.5L core. The 4.0L core will cover the tank.
My OE radiator was a single core but it was a long tube. My newer radiator is a twin core but the cores are shorter so there is no real difference.
yep, that's pretty much it (the visual check).
i think all the aftermarket ones are thick, at least i could only find 1 part number for both 2.5 and 4.0 when i looked but it is better to clarify the core thickness if he purchases one online (could be NOS in which case could still be a thin core).
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have you checked the fuel pressure at the rail when running to see if the tbi pump is keeping up? stock exhaust on the 4.ol xj's wasn't that big, no bigger than the exhaust on my 90 2.5l although everything behind the cat was replaced before i got it, so i wouldn't worry about exhaust much (although opening it up wouldn't hurt).
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So ya'll think a 2.5 fuel pump will be enough for the 4.0? Also here are a few pictures.
radiator. Also to the fan question it is blowing inward - that is a piece of paper in the picture
Think the fan is only 16" maybe that is why. I know it is getting hot proved it today... Also my mech said there was little to no fuel pressure at all. Said my fuel pump looked corroded
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My new cold air intake with crap parts from autozone and new custom bracket
(just wanted something working to cover tbi, will upgrade later)
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Also my mech said there was little to no fuel pressure at all
well there is a big problem. time to swap fuel pumps.
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well there is a big problem. time to swap fuel pumps.
Thats my issue, the drive home it was sputtering and backfiring (i think)
do I get a new gas tank and a 4.0 fuel pump (not what I want to do) or can the 2.5 (90 YJ one) push enough fuel to work with a 4.0 (88 cherokee engine).
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Thats my issue, the drive home it was sputtering and backfiring (i think)
do I get a new gas tank and a 4.0 fuel pump (not what I want to do) or can the 2.5 (90 YJ one) push enough fuel to work with a 4.0 (88 cherokee engine).
Someone has the PSI specs for the 2.5L TBI fuel pump. I remember it being lower then the MPFI fuel pump. If it was me, I'd remove the intake pump and add an aftermarket inline pump.
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Someone has the PSI specs for the 2.5L TBI fuel pump. I remember it being lower then the MPFI fuel pump. If it was me, I'd remove the intake pump and add an aftermarket inline pump.
Oh jeez, if we were talking about hacking computers or network security I could follow ya jeffy, I am lack their of without pictures or explanations :D
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tbi pump won't work on mpfi, the tbi is meant for lot lower pressure
i can't tell what that piece of paper does in that picture, the way you have installed the fan it should push thru the rad (put the paper on the other side and make sure it's blowing towards the engine
but if you're running lean that can be the reason it's getting hot.
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I am running VERY lean by what mech said. That is why I am about to say screw it and just get a 4.0 tank and pump if they fit in a YJ. I am way too confused currently on what to do with my YJ tank needing a pump replacement with the XJ 88 engine.
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I'll elaborate here since someone else might be interested as well. You remove the stock pump completely. Then you will need to extend the lines in the tank and extend the pickup line down and add a screen/filter. The mount an aftermarket fuel pump to the frame or cross-member near the tank.
Another option would be to buy a MPFI sending unit but really you'll be spending about the same for either. The advantage of the former is that if it ever goes bad you don't have to drop the tank.
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Another option would be to buy a MPFI sending unit but really you'll be spending about the same for either. The advantage of the former is that if it ever goes bad you don't have to drop the tank.
hate to keep asking but do you have a part number :D
Haven't other people done 2.5 to 4.0 swaps? I am sure someone ran into this problem.
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http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/25to40/25to40.htm
This gave me some guidance. guess I can swap out tank and fuel pump, or try to make out what jeffy is saying :D
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4-0-conversion-83898/
6 or 7 lines down. Is this what you are talking about Jeffy?
3) The 89 and 90 YJ had return fuel lines already so I just installed an inline fuel filter and pump.
Is this what you are talking about jeffy?
http://www.quadratec.com/products/55107_99.htm - it is a 4.2 fuel sending unit.
Or maybe this is more what I need http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=details&inventoryID=43049&catId=7902
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if i recall correctly the mpfi fuel pump may fit in the tbi sending unit (was looking to see if the tbi pump fits in the mpfi unit and the answer was no becasue the tbi pump was bigger in diameter) so reverse engineering that the mpfi pump may fit the tbi sending unit. but doing an inline pump like jeffy said would be easier..
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Well I do not know how to do that :(
but on another note will this fit a 90 YJ
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/2451822745.html
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Well I do not know how to do that :(
but on another note will this fit a 90 YJ
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/2451822745.html
based on that picture you posted i think you already have the thick rad, so most likely your problem is the mixture - if you fix that you might not need to swap the rad (especially if it's thick).
why don't you measure the core, just stick a toothpick thru the fins and stop when it come out on the other side, keep your finger flush and pull the stick and measure. Or use the visual reference Jeffy mentioned (how much of the tank is covered by the core).
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Well I do not know how to do that :(
but on another note will this fit a 90 YJ
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/2451822745.html
No get one that's for a YJ not a CJ. Stop mixing and matching if you don't want to run into problems.
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I was just following what that one guy did.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4-0-conversion-83898/
Anyone in Denver or by highlands ranch that wants to make some extra cash and help a brother out?
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Again what year was the 4.0 from.
Seems the one you are trying to copy is a 98 XJ engine
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Again what year was the 4.0 from.
Seems the one you are trying to copy is a 98 XJ engine
His is pre-1991. So it's Renix MPFI and not High-Output.
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I measured the radiator. From when I feel it prick my finger then I marked the other side it is 1 1/4 in thick
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His is pre-1991. So it's Renix MPFI and not High-Output.
What I'm trying to say is the link he posted about where he is getting his info is for a later engine not the one he has.
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I measured the radiator. From when I feel it prick my finger then I marked the other side it is 1 1/4 in thick
so you have the thick one, i don't think you need to change it unless it's clogged. fix the pump issue first and go from there.
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Listened to sharp and jeffy.
removed the tank and here is the unit inside.
The Top picture I have no clue what it is, it wasn't even hooked up. The unit - i know it is mechanical at least... making some progress as a computer guy :D
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The top pic is a breather for the tank. Although that tank doesn't seem to have a place for it.
Are you going to try to swap a MPFI pump in there or are you going to remove it and go external?
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Found a pic of that unidentified piece and how it hooks up.
(http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k448/rgs112/DSC01830.jpg)
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Ok did a little digging and at the napa site it give fuel pump specifications.
It is a little weird.
XJ 28 Gal per hour and pressure of 17PSI
YJ 15.95 gal per hour and 26 PSI.
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I just want an easy no fab replacement, was going to go to advance auto parts and tell them just to make it worm
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Also the two pumps look a lot alike, they may even just be able to be swaped out I would take the YJ Pump in and see if the XJ looks like it would fit.
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what's the pressure in the rail for this Renix MPFI? (the one installed in this Jeep)
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Well the book says it needs 19-39, there was 0 pressure. I went to release it and 1 drop just plopped out and tank full.
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well I did it - and it is working. downfall no oil pressure, and possible antifreeze in oil :( (head problem I was told)
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well I did it - and it is working. downfall no oil pressure, and possible antifreeze in oil :( (head problem I was told)
hmm, didn't you just rebuild it (or am i mixing with someone else's project)
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Nope that was me no f'n clue why unless original mec messed up bad somehow
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Nope that was me no f'n clue why unless original mec messed up bad somehow
how many miles did you put on it with the mixture lean?
if you run it like that it can burn the cyl head gasket (best case scenario if not cracking the head, less likely but it happens sometimes)
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only drove it 7 miles.
Here is a picture of brand new oil (on right) after only 5 minutes in my jeep and taken from the oil filter. The left is the same oil just not ran in my jeep. Out of the bottle. Hopefully it is just that and not the oil pump as well. I know jeeps are made not bought, but damn would a been cheaper to buy a new one lol
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only drove it 7 miles.
Here is a picture of brand new oil (on right) after only 5 minutes in my jeep and taken from the oil filter. The left is the same oil just not ran in my jeep. Out of the bottle. Hopefully it is just that and not the oil pump as well. I know jeeps are made not bought, but damn would a been cheaper to buy a new one lol
that just looks like it has dye in it, if it's coolant in the oil it would foam. doesnt look like coolant either, it's too dark. Are you missing coolant?
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Not sure if there is a dye but it was in my engine a max of 10 minutes. Did an oil change. Ran it for 5 minutes then pulled the filter and dumped that stuff out. We did it a previous times and saw bubbles so we wanted to try to replicate. Color the same but not bubbles but still "0" oil pressure.
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Not sure if there is a dye but it was in my engine a max of 10 minutes. Did an oil change. Ran it for 5 minutes then pulled the filter and dumped that stuff out. We did it a previous times and saw bubbles so we wanted to try to replicate. Color the same but not bubbles but still "0" oil pressure.
how can it have 0 oil pressure, doesn't make sense unless:
- the oil pump shaft is broken
- the pressure gauge is busted (did they put a mech gauge on it?)
still, are you missing coolant?
for a rebuilt engine you should not have that oil color after 5 minutes, not sure what is going on but it's weird
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At idle it has 0. If I push on the gas it will go up to about 40 then slowly come back down. I was going to go buy a tester just to be sure to check or replace oil sending unit. I added water into it. I am with ya on the color of the oil. called a friend of mine and he said it could be my head gasket like I said before but going to wait and show this to new mech to see what he says.
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I was missing coolant, not much maybe a few oz. I think that my mech, telling me to drive it home was a mistake and it messed up head gasket (at least pray not the head itself).
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Is there any test I can do to find out? And if so is there a tool I need to buy?
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Is there any test I can do to find out? And if so is there a tool I need to buy?
there is a radiator pressure test although not always relevant for this particular problem
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Just got to ask what color antifreeze you using. Also were you using straight antifreeze or premixed.
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Not sure the stuff he had in there was green I added a redish premix
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What was the type you added. Cause one good rule is not to mix colors.
Did it once and it cost me a radiator completly plugged it.
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It's prestone and says can be mixed with green.
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Sounds like you might have mixed Dexicool with Glycol (green) Never use Dexicool in your Jeep.
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Would that make the oil look like that though after running only 5 minutes, wait Nm I added the red after so that oil.was just from green
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Would that make the oil look like that though after running only 5 minutes, wait Nm I added the red after so that oil.was just from green
No but Dexicoll is bad stuff. GM had a recall for heads leaking after using that crap.
Really, I would expect to see the oil cleaner BUT I don't think you said if you rebuilt the engine or even bothered to flush it. Could be really bad carbon build up in there.
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Engine completly rebuilt from bottom up. Only been on road maybe a max of 10 miles. I can try to do a flush after I figure out the 0 oil pressure. What is more likely a bad oil pump or blown head gasket?
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Did you ever prime the oil pump when the engine was out of the Jeep? I wouldn't trust the stock dash gauges at all at this point. You need to put a mechanical gauge on the engine first. Otherwise. spin the pump with an electric drill and take the valve cover off and watch.
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Nope I haven't really done much to the jeep pegged than that fuel pump and an oil change
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He has no oil pressure at Idle. But did say when he reved it it came up to 40 then went back down. Me I would put on a mechanical gauge and make sure.
Also just thought of this is there not a problem with mixing YJ and XJ gauges and sending units. Think I read about this on another place while searching the web.
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I think I have the sending unit off of the 88 but I do still have the YJ gauges. I know I have some pressure because by mistake we started it without the filter on (someone moved a tad bit to fast) and it blew out all the oil. I would think if there was no pressure none would have come out. I am going to find someone with a tester so we can manually test it, and do a compression test as well.
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I think I have the sending unit off of the 88 but I do still have the YJ gauges. I know I have some pressure because by mistake we started it without the filter on (someone moved a tad bit to fast) and it blew out all the oil. I would think if there was no pressure none would have come out. I am going to find someone with a tester so we can manually test it, and do a compression test as well.
Does the XJ have an oil light and not a gauge?
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Well the gauges I got from it were aftermarket I believe. I went to try to hook it up to the YJ ones and there were no wires. need to look into my electrical book and see if it is possible.
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Not sure if.this is normal but my head gasket looks to be made out of cork and is almost a 1/4 thick. All the ones I have seen are not cork. Is this a normal practice?
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Not sure if.this is normal but my head gasket looks to be made out of cork and is almost a 1/4 thick. All the ones I have seen are not cork. Is this a normal practice?
cyl head gasket? ???
they are not made out of cork, post some pictures
they are not 1/4'' thick either so that's a red flag regardless.
who rebuilt the engine?
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I will take some pictures when I get off of work.
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Not sure if.this is normal but my head gasket looks to be made out of cork and is almost a 1/4 thick. All the ones I have seen are not cork. Is this a normal practice?
Valve covers or heads? How are you able to see the gasket for the heads?
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Valve covers or heads? How are you able to see the gasket for the heads?
i'm assuming he removed the head, it did cross my mind that would be the valve cover gasket but then i thought the head gasket is pretty specific
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This is the location that I can see cork, I think. Going to take an exact picture when I get home.
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here's a thought: what oil pressure sender do you have on that motor? did you put your's in there or it's the one that came with it - they are different between certain years
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I do not remember that was almost a year ago. I can take a picture if that will help too. I am leaving to go home now
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I do not remember that was almost a year ago. I can take a picture if that will help too. I am leaving to go home now
i'd say just put a mechanical gauge on it that will give you the answer right away, my guess is that is the wrong sender (doesn't make sense to go 40psi revved and 0 at idle, would be really noisy in that case).
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My new mechanic is coming over tomorrow or next day to pressure test it. Here is the gasket I was talking about - shit looks like wood.
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I'm going to guess it's a reinforced composite and not cork. If you really don't trust the work done to the engine, pull it apart and assemble it yourself.
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I'm going to guess it's a reinforced composite and not cork. If you really don't trust the work done to the engine, pull it apart and assemble it yourself.
what's interesting is that they do swell where not pressed between the head and block (if it sticks out a bit), however that doesn't happen in 10 miles of driving
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I will let you guys know what my new mechanic says if he comes over today to check oil pressure.
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What is the chance... no remember not so engine smart, that the gear lube (crank or cam forget which one) we used a black type of lube to put them in or the lifters? There are no bubbles and it doesn't look like it is taking on water. It can't be radiator fluid. Mech coming tomorrow so I will know more, but talked to a buddy who rebuilds old ass cars and he offered up that idea.
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What is the chance... no remember not so engine smart, that the gear lube (crank or cam forget which one) we used a black type of lube to put them in or the lifters? There are no bubbles and it doesn't look like it is taking on water. It can't be radiator fluid. Mech coming tomorrow so I will know more, but talked to a buddy who rebuilds old ass cars and he offered up that idea.
The Mechanic can pressure test the coolant system and compression test the cylinders.
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my mech did test and oil pressure is @ 8 when idle and 16 at 3k rpm's, have to dig thru the book to see what the stock pressure is for the 4.0L for him, but my guess oil pump bad. He looked at the head and says he will need to do a test to be 100% but looks ok visually.
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my mech did test and oil pressure is (at) 8 when idle and 16 at 3k rpm's, have to dig thru the book to see what the stock pressure is for the 4.0L for him, but my guess oil pump bad. He looked at the head and says he will need to do a test to be 100% but looks ok visually.
take it back to the mechanic who did the rebuild, 10 miles in and you have 8psi at idle and 16 when you should have over 50 it's obviously a rebuild issue.
oh, you can't tell visually if the head is ok without taking it off, neither can you tell if the head gasket is ok.
if what you said before is correct (that the head gasket looks 1/4'' thick) i am going to guess that the engine was not rebuilt unless you saw it being taken apart and put back together, that is not happening in that much driving, it takes some time for the gasket to swell like that.
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Sorry, we were looking for visible leaks from the head. We couldn't find them. I watched it being taken apart and put back together. I do not remember them replacing the oil pump during the build. I guess the reason that the gasket looks like wood is because there is some copper substance painted on it for it to stay in the correct spot and help seal.
Original mech in Nevada I had to trailer it here to CO when I moved. Wish I could see him again would put a boot in his ass for costing me so much damn money (could have done this easier with carb V8)
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so what was done to the motor? bearings, crank?
not sure why they put that much copper rtv on the gasket, shouldn't be any if you're asking me.
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I basically took a old running motor. Had the head decked, machined. 10 over on the crank. New everything else. Block, and valve cover only original thing not touched (just cleaned). Once I get the specs for the idle oil pressure we are going to try to narrow down what could be causing the issue.
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I basically took a old running motor. Had the head decked, machined. 10 over on the crank. New everything else. Block, and valve cover only original thing not touched (just cleaned). Once I get the specs for the idle oil pressure we are going to try to narrow down what could be causing the issue.
i think it's 20 or 25 psi min at idle and something like 50 revved up.
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Got this off alldata, sound right
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At Low Speed (600 rpm) 89.6 kPa (13 psi)
At 1600 rpm and Higher 255-517 kPa (37-75 psi)
Oil Pressure Relief 517 kPa (75 psi)
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Got this off alldata, sound right
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At Low Speed (600 rpm) 89.6 kPa (13 psi)
At 1600 rpm and Higher 255-517 kPa (37-75 psi)
Oil Pressure Relief 517 kPa (75 psi)
sounds right but that would be minimum acceptable, for a freshly rebuilt should be way better.
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Well ya learn something new everyday. I have doe a few oil pan gasket swaps in my day and just found out your suppose to torque the bolts. I have never once done that.
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Really watch what you use its probably Inch Pounds not Foot Pounds.
The oil pan has two different fasteners, each having their own torque values: 1/4-inch bolts and 5/16-inch bolts. The 1/4-inch bolts require 85 inch-pounds of torque and the 5/16-inch bolts require 11 foot-pounds. These values apply for both the 2.5 and 4.0 liter engines.
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The oil pump looks brand new, the strainer doesn't though looks really rought. Could that cause no oil pressure? here is a picture of the brand new one I bought and the one in the engine.
The one in the engine has a number stamp of 348 where as the new one has a 239. Could it have been the wrong pump from the start?
*UPDATE, they both say M-81A so my guess is it is the right one. just a different brand
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you can't tell unless you take it apart (if it's ok i mean) - inspect the gears and play in the gears and shaft. They look the same but then again you'd need to compare the gears to tell if they are different.
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If the pickup is plugged up it could restrict flow.
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I think the pickup is off of my 2.5 and not my 4.0. It looks really old and hashed
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I think the pickup is off of my 2.5 and not my 4.0. It looks really old and hashed
i don't think they fit between the 4.0 and 2.5.
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I am going to do a manual test. think this will work.
put some oil in the pan. hold the screen in the oil and spin in manually to see if it picks up any oil. That should tell me if it is working or clogged.
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I am going to do a manual test. think this will work.
put some oil in the pan. hold the screen in the oil and spin in manually to see if it picks up any oil. That should tell me if it is working or clogged.
you had some pressure so the oil was getting thru, imo the test is irrelevant.
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Well shit then I am at a stand still until I speak with my mech. Not sure what is next step.
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Well shit then I am at a stand still until I speak with my mech. Not sure what is next step.
1. wash the pickup
2. go to a parts store and see if they have a replacement screen if you feel that yours is busted
3. take the old pump apart and check it with feeler gauges (chech the fsm for acceptable tolerances)
if it all tuns out ok then there might be some other issue for which you did not have oil pressure, otherwise if you find the old pump to be out of spec it might explain the problem.
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What I've been wondering bad Main bearings wrong size whatever.
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Well here is an update, change the oil pump, still not enough pressure. Have to test with a manual gauge to be sure though
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also, have you checked the clearance between the pickup and the bottom of the oil pan? (just to make sure is not pressing against it).
your next step would be to check the bearing clearance using plastigage i think.
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Instructions from my guy: check manual pressure, if none or little pull value cover to see where and where oil is not coming up. Has anyone heard of a way to flush the block? Some guy at autozone was telling me I could do that. Then got a phone call and didnt elaborate.
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Instructions from my guy: check manual pressure, if none or little pull value cover to see where and where oil is not coming up. Has anyone heard of a way to flush the block? Some guy at autozone was telling me I could do that. Then got a phone call and didnt elaborate.
Sea Foam will clean it up. There are other products as well.
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also, have you checked the clearance between the pickup and the bottom of the oil pan? (just to make sure is not pressing against it).
your next step would be to check the bearing clearance using plastigage i think.
As I said either wrong bearing or wrong machining. Right on with the plastigage.
You could have oil coming to the valve cover area but you would not by sight be able to tell the pressure. Just because a lot shows up does not mean pressure.
Not sure what flushing will do.
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the fuel pressure sensor or port if you wish is on the main oil galley in the block, regardless if you have oil on top (which you should since your pressure is > 0) it doesn't mean anything (like he ^ said).
aside of the main bearings (which would be the most likely cause at this point), cam bearings and even rod bearings can cause the same issue and also the lifters [but less likely]. Clearance (or lack of) between the oil pump pickup and the oil pan is another reason for lack of pressure.
if you're testing the clearance between the crank and bearings and it's out of spec then you know the next step, if it's fine then you need to look at other reasons.
another reason could be (and this is a very long shot) an oil galley cap sipping oil or missing (but that would mean 0 pressure) - i think there is one behind the dist chain cover and 1 behind the bellhousing, if it's the latter you'd be losing a lot of oil so that's not likely.
Oil pump was changed so that is out of question.
EDIT: flushing won't do anything at this point, you already took the oil pan out, so there's no gunk on the bottom to prevent the oil from going up the pickup tube. If you had pressure (like normal pressure i mean) and no oil on top of the head then it would make sense to try flushing but in your case i doubt would do anything - if there was something blocking the oil from reaching a bearing or lifters it would make noise but your pressure would be high, this is not your case. You can try but slim chance that it would have any [positive] result.
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Thanks for the info guys, I will let my mechanic know of you ideas.
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Mechanic coming over and will most likely be pulling the engine due to limited space here in my garage. I let him know about the knock and no oil pressure (on manual gauge) after the new pump but on oil sending unit it moves (which is odd). I did find out the wire off the engine doesn't snap on the sending unit and is barely making contact so the sending unit or wire is off the old 2.5 I think (but most likely wrong).
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Another update.
Need to pull pan and head :(
There is no oil on the valves but pressure at the filter and the sending unit. Blockage or break. I have another block ready to go, but will be f'in pissed if I spent all that money at a fail of a machine shop
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pulling the head won't help you getting the oil pressure up though, should try and see if there's pressure loss somewhere and do the plastigage test to see if the crank is out of spec.
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Do any of you know where I can find a diagram of the oil passageways? I checked the rod bearings and they are find. I have a service manual but says nothing about the passageways or at least under engine it isn't there where it talks about oil pump and pan.
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how did you check the rod bearings? what about the main ones? it's not necessarily how they look but the clearance is mainly the issue, since they are new and you only put 10 miles on the motor I would expect they look just fine regardless.
EDIT: have you tried a new oil filter? i had an issue once with a new one that had a stuck or bad valve and was barely letting oil passing thru, if you replaced it already then disregard - long shot but you never know.
here you go, hope this helps.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/Misc/oilCircuit40L.jpg)