4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: mrcabinet on July 04, 2011, 10:21:43 AM
-
My '01 has never had that full "return to center" action in the steering, and I've done alot of things over the past two years trying to cure it. It's better, but still not there. A couple of weeks ago I had to change the power steering pump. When I had it up on stands, bleeding the system, I noticed that at center, and about 1/4 turn either direction, the steering is very stiff. Past 1/4 turn it is smooth and easy. Without the engine running, it is very hard to turn in that spot.
Today, I disconnected the steering stabilizer and dropped the pitman arm. With the pitman and linkage disconnected, the steering wheel is still stiff at center. I do believe that this is the cause of no return-to-center. Everything else in the front end is smooth and tight. There doesn't appear to be any binding in the steering shaft. I even tried backing off the adjustment screw on the box, which didn't make any difference.
So, is it time for a new box? Is there something else I should be checking? If I replace it, should I go with a Durango box? I don't have the funds to go PSC (or really for a stock one either!) right now.
All suggestions / thoughts are greatly appreciated.
-
As best as I can recall, my 2000 has been pretty much the same way since new off the lot.
-
Having it trturn to center is a function of having toe-in and caster dialed into the front wheels.
-
Having it trturn to center is a function of having toe-in and caster dialed into the front wheels.
Think I need to check mine. If I move to hit the turn signal left or right its going that direction right now. But it does recenter.
I think they have to little toe in.
-
Toe is at 3/32" and I have tried caster from 4 to 10 degrees. At 10 the driveline vibes were terrible, but that was the best return I got - but still not all the way. Right now it is at about 7 1/2 degrees. The problem, as I can see it, is that there is so much resistance near center that it is preventing it from returning to center. You can actually hear the ps pump working harder at center. My 17 year old daughter is driving it now and, while I'm used to the "point and shoot" steering, she's not. It's bad enough that I'm not comfortable with her driving it.
-
Near the center is should be somewhat tight, if you look at the repair manual it gives an inch/ pound reading for that. Follow the directions for properly adjusting the steering box and go from there. Once that is adjusted correctly you can move on to the rest of the steering setup. Steering box has to be adjusted correctly for everything else to work as it should
-
The box is / has been adjusted correctly. If this is "normal", I don't want to waste my money on a new box. Honestly, the steering does not behave like any other vehicle I've driven - from Porches to Freightliners. And no, it's not a dead spot. The wheels move in conjunction with the steering wheel. I even did the extra-flow mod. on the pump (but not the extra pressure) when I replaced it. That had no effect.
-
It all depends how tight and if you are constantly over correcting your steering.
When the box is to tight it's almost impossible to drive in a straight line without constantly moving the steering wheel, lack of caster does this too
-
Yep, that's it. It's almost impossible to keep in a straight line unless you're really experienced with it and have a good touch. This thing will wear your wrists out on an hour long drive. I can't really adjust the caster out any more due to driveline vibes and the adjustable lower control arms would hit the plates on the mounts. Maybe I'll take it to the dealership (!) and see if they think it is within spec.
-
what's your caster as it sits right now?
you are on the right track though, it's either binding of the steering or caster angle.
-
Look at the manuals that were on here at o9ne time and adjust the steering gear according to that. The worms shaft having end play put the sector shaft being to tight will do exactly that
-
I have the gear adjusted to just touching, then backed off 1/8 turn. I've done this type of saginaw box this way for many, many years without an issue. I should add that it has the same feeling whether adjusted in or out.
-
Did you adjust the worm shaft? The big nut and cup that goes around the input shaft of the gear box.
-
No, I didn't know about that one until I looked at the FSM a little bit ago. I don't have an inch torque wrench or the wrench that they show. Any suggestions as to what would be the best way for a backyard guy like me to adjust it?
-
aw12345 - It says in the FSM that the worm gear / shaft is set at the factory and not able to be adjusted in the field. Do you know of a way to do it?
-
The plug on top of the steering gear with the big nut on it can be adjusted
Here ya go, as long as the worm part where the balls roll does not have excessive play, you start with this then adjust the sector shaft.
(http://hotimg23.fotki.com/a/76_172/88_38/steering.jpg) (http://hotimg23.fotki.com/p/a/76_172/88_38/steering.jpg)
This is step 2
(http://hotimg23.fotki.com/a/76_172/88_38/steering1.jpg) (http://hotimg23.fotki.com/p/a/76_172/88_38/steering1.jpg)
Dine this way the box is adjusted correctly
-
I'll give it a whirl. Thanks!
-
So, night before last, I pulled the steering box off. On the bench, it was so tight that I could barely turn it with a socket and breaker bar on the shaft. That's when I decided that since my daughter would be driving the rig, I didn't want to take any chances with the steering. I hit the O'Reilly's by my house yesterday morning. Turns out that the manager there has a '99 TJ and he had never heard of the Durango swap. He was so intrigued by it that he sold me a Durango box for the TJ price ($30.00 less) and even matched Advance Auto's 20% on-line discount. He didn't care what I brought in for a core, so long as it was "a chunk of metal that looks like a steering box". While I was at it, I exchanged and replaced the rebuilt pump that had been growling since I put it in three weeks ago (third times a charm!).
All I can say is WOW! That thing drives like a sports car now! I guess I've been fighting the gear box for almost two years now, and I never would have suspected it if I hadn't had to replace the pump because the reservoir kamakazied onto the pulley.
For those replacing the box by themselves, I found that it worked great to put the nose end of it on a floor jack, rest the body against the tie rod and connect the lines before using the jack to raise it in place.
-
Well O a, glad you finally got a handle on it