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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: aka-justin on September 03, 2011, 12:03:43 PM
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I've been feeling a vibration at highway speeds since I bought it. My wife said it looked bad when she was following me yesterday, so took it to a buddy at a tire shop. Sal, my buddy, said the axle looked bent, but need to take it appear to confirm. Took off the wheel and confirmed his prediction. :bs:
http://www.youtube.com/v/RYNm6Tpzj3I?version=3&hl=en_US
Thinking about just going to go pick-up a G2 Rear Axle Kit at 4 Wheel Parts with the weekend "Labor Day" sale and all.
Anyones 2 cents if valued. Thanks,
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http://www.quadratec.com/products/52465_6603_07.htm
G2 Axle & Gear 30 Spline Rear Axle Kit
For 97-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ & Unlimited with Dana 44 Axle
Quadratec Part No: 52465.6603
Manufacturer Part No: 962033130
These Dana 44 axle upgrade kits are forged from Chromoly steel for added strength and feature screw in wheel studs and big spline options. Jeep TJ applications included dual bolt patterns to accept 5on 4.5" and 5 on 5.5" wheels.
Parts Included
- Axle Shafts
- Wheel Bearings
- Seals
- Wheel Studs
(http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/132752/132752-lg.jpg)
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If the axle is bent double check that rim. Thought I had a bent Axle and it ended up being a bad Rim. Drives so much better now
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shaft could be bent or could be just the bearing. try looking for a used shaft to try first?
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If the axle is bent double check that rim. Thought I had a bent Axle and it ended up being a bad Rim. Drives so much better now
You can see in the video the flange is wavering without the tire on it. It's not that bad though. Mine was worse. Swap the shaft and keep the old one as a trail spare. I wish they had flanges with two bolt patterns when I bought my axle shaft.
The hardest thing about the install is having the bearing pressed on. Some places like Superior will do this for you for $10. Also make sure they use Tomkin bearings (The best). If you get the bearing pressed then you could swap the axle on your driveway in 15 minutes. No opening the diffs with a D44.
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You can see in the video the flange is wavering without the tire on it. It's not that bad though. Mine was worse. Swap the shaft and keep the old one as a trail spare. I wish they had flanges with two bolt patterns when I bought my axle shaft.
I was thinking the same thing. I wonder what G2 gives as far as the bearings go.
If this was going to be just a toy, I'd probably buy the parts and wait for it to get worse, but I'm driving this to work.
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did you try another rim of your rig to see if it did the same ??
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I was thinking the same thing. I wonder what G2 gives as far as the bearings go.
If this was going to be just a toy, I'd probably buy the parts and wait for it to get worse, but I'm driving this to work.
they usually come with Timken bearings but with G2 you never know (depends on the batch, they are rebranded kits), they are cheap though.
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I was thinking the same thing. I wonder what G2 gives as far as the bearings go.
If this was going to be just a toy, I'd probably buy the parts and wait for it to get worse, but I'm driving this to work.
If money's an issue you can but one shaft at a time. At least I know Superior does this. I think I drove a year with my 35 wobbling. The only problem wither then balance was that the bend caused the seal to leak then soak the pads and drum. If you let it go too long it will wear the drum at an angle and then you'll want to replace the pads and drums which I ended up doing anyway.
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If money's an issue you can but one shaft at a time. At least I know Superior does this. I think I drove a year with my 35 wobbling. The only problem wither then balance was that the bend caused the seal to leak then soak the pads and drum. If you let it go too long it will wear the drum at an angle and then you'll want to replace the pads and drums which I ended up doing anyway.
When I took the rotor / drum (e-brake) off, you could see it was a little wet.
I bit the bullet. $319 and I should have it (hopefully) by the end of the week. That includes the kit mentioned above, $5 freight fee, and $27 3yr/36k mile warranty that covers any and all of the parts. I'll snap pics during the install with a follow up. By the way, Jeffy, the told me it includes the Timken bearings.
I have to be honest. As much work as I did for fun and for repair on my '95, I really wasn't looking forward to this. I had some plans [upgrade to a 4-link in the rear, rear Fox Shox, HIDs, Belly-Up Skid, Diff. Covers, on-board air], but they are miles and miles away. Right now, I'm still focused on moving, but I can't shake this Jeep illness. :driving:
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I can't shake this Jeep illness. :driving:
I hear ya.. it's a addiction!!
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I have G2's on both axles and they have held great so far...
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The whole pot full came today. Installing it all tomorrow. More pics to follow.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HtNDtJZKnCo/Tmrs20QAnuI/AAAAAAAACFQ/VdhwHIikyNI/s512/IMG_2490.JPG)
Noticed the race is now part of the bearing as one, not in 2 pieces (Timken.)
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Noticed the race is now part of the bearing as one, not in 2 pieces (Timken.)
so it's not conical bearing then?
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so it's not conical bearing then?
It looks tapered (conical), but the race is not removing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-18FJPD5O9t8/Tmr6jgJ62aI/AAAAAAAACFY/zTJKOKBx8RY/s640/IMG_2491.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2fzaqhtzPRY/Tmr6jz3bX2I/AAAAAAAACFc/pujmSbupz7w/s640/IMG_2492.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ykJFLTBsI0w/Tmr6kZNqijI/AAAAAAAACFg/cioVW5KUET0/s640/IMG_2493.JPG)
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That is how the bearing looks, it's a set 10 bearing and that ring holds the bearing together
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That is how the bearing looks, it's a set 10 bearing and that ring holds the bearing together
Yup, it's a better design. That's how mine were as well.
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Pressed on the new bearings (f***ing scary on a harbor freight 12 ton press.) Everything was cake, except the emergency brake shoes. Went to put on the wheel, and the wheel studs are too short - only catching a few threads through the crappy look-at-my-microscopic-penis god-awful bling-blingin' wheels. The wheel studs are threaded. Could only find Alloy USA selling what I need. They are 1/2" dia. 20 pitch 1-1/2" long, Alloy USA sells 1.5" and 2.0". Ordered 12 up (2 spares) from Summit for $2.95ea; should be here Wednesday. They listed for 4.99ea, but I spoke with Dakota in SummitRacing sales, and he was able to match some other random online competitor I found in Google.
For now, I finished putting on the new axles with the suicide length wheel studs. It'll stay parked until I'm all done next weekend.
Here are some photos and the wheel studs. Will take a photo of the 1.5" wheel studs next weekend to show you how short they are.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nOVITk2NWLA/TmwIp_GFQ1I/AAAAAAAACFo/H2HlfxMD83M/s800/2011-09-10_10-56-51_898.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TNKJjb6m4Gs/TmwIqlHkpSI/AAAAAAAACFs/RmIv4sC0PkI/s800/2011-09-10_11-02-29_328.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tN-i2zR5Kws/TmwIq4XrzJI/AAAAAAAACFw/VtKbuZU6iQE/s800/2011-09-10_11-02-57_838.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9W3ohqj_A0Y/TmwIrcuCFsI/AAAAAAAACF0/8Ucxs1e8ZNE/s800/2011-09-10_11-13-18_585.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-09S50gulpvA/TmwIr--WwdI/AAAAAAAACF4/HLdcMFT3-f4/s800/2011-09-10_11-13-25_445.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n10P3C6X87M/TmwIsH6XB8I/AAAAAAAACF8/U0dnrq5YiIk/s800/2011-09-10_11-22-35_576.jpg)
Ha! Race fell out in my hand. Didn't get as lucky on the other side, but the bearing puller was unnecessary - going back to Harbor Freight.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uZwRTN0K-EE/TmwIszbtMSI/AAAAAAAACGE/WNwOIuWI1HQ/s800/2011-09-10_12-26-28_841.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E17VW0oG-NA/TmwItXoR_UI/AAAAAAAACGI/papvxstVqyM/s800/2011-09-10_12-26-32_264.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fi9my75Rzqc/TmwItgrHk7I/AAAAAAAACGM/v6lmzWG0gTY/s800/2011-09-10_12-41-19_77.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6mATmYK1tfM/TmwIuLidYDI/AAAAAAAACGQ/T5lpqQia_Yg/s800/2011-09-10_12-51-37_804.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lnCdyY6T0cg/TmwIuRDRejI/AAAAAAAACGU/K7WeU6uxR3M/s512/2011-09-10_12-51-42_405.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AEFBY-rNsqg/TmwIuxIB6AI/AAAAAAAACGY/9rMcVYnAd2U/s800/2011-09-10_12-51-49_757.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qBt9kaqRlHc/TmwIvMs0x3I/AAAAAAAACGc/-QkTJKjzrqQ/s800/2011-09-10_13-25-48_882.jpg)
Here's the bolt I need for my crap-tastic alloy wheels:
Brand Alloy USA
Manufacturer's Part Number 99STUD2
Part Type Wheel Studs
Product Line Alloy USA Wheel Studs
Summit Racing Part Number ALY-99STUD2
UPC 804314215361
Wheel Stud Style Screw-in
Wheel Stud Thread Size 1/2-20 in. RH
Underhead Length (in) 2.000 in.
Quick-Start Nose No
Quantity Sold individually.
(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/norm/aly-99stud2_w_m.jpg)
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The race just fell out? They should be a little snug in the holes but not pressed in by any means.
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The race just fell out? They should be a little snug in the holes but not pressed in by any means.
Probably not a good sign, huh? :lol: I used a cheap seal puller and a small hammer on the other race.
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Probably not a good sign, huh? :lol: I used a cheap seal puller and a small hammer on the other race.
Was it the bad side? What you have to worry about is the bearing seizing up then honing out the hole.
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Was it the bad side? What you have to worry about is the bearing seizing up then honing out the hole.
The driver side race fell out. That bearing looked like it was ready to come off the inner/shaft race - all sloppy. The passenger side race - bent axle - had to be tapped out. That bearing seemed to be ok.
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The driver side race fell out. That bearing looked like it was ready to come off the inner/shaft race - all sloppy. The passenger side race - bent axle - had to be tapped out. That bearing seemed to be ok.
Did you look at the race and the hole? Usually you'll see signs of scratches going around the outer part of the race if it was spinning. If there were none then I wouldn't worry about it too much. It could have caught on the rollers and popped out with it.
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how long were the stock studs? I assume they were fine since you've been using these wheels before - if that's the case you should call the store you bought the axles from and let them know.
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Did you look at the race and the hole? Usually you'll see signs of scratches going around the outer part of the race if it was spinning. If there were none then I wouldn't worry about it too much. It could have caught on the rollers and popped out with it.
The tube looked perfect. It was probably the later of the two - I had tapped the axle with a mallet to work it out.
how long were the stock studs? I assume they were fine since you've been using these wheels before - if that's the case you should call the store you bought the axles from and let them know.
It looked like the lugnuts grabbed about a 1/2" prior - I hadn't checked previously, since I haven't had the occastion to. I already made a review on 4wheelparts and planned on calling the sales guy on Monday.
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FYI the stock bearings race are made to break on install. (Its normal) it allows the race to stay aligned with the bearing when you press it on.
My 44 has the same loose driver side race issue. They dont fit real tight, since they use a retainer flange to hold them in..
Dave
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FYI the stock bearings race are made to break on install. (Its normal) it allows the race to stay aligned with the bearing when you press it on.
what do you mean break?
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One side of the bearing outer race has a ring that keeps the new race and the core together, once tightened in the ring shears off and acts as a spacer and the outer race floats. (Mine is that way anyhow and so was my other 44...)
Mine is a 1987 Cherokee limited axle, if that makes a difference..
Dave
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Well, just spent half the day removing both axles, switching the wheel studs, and reinstalling. Took a quick test trip, everything seems good. Time for some PBR :beers:
Dave, one of my bearings had done exactly as you said. The race stayed in the housing upon removal of one of the shafts.
Here's the photos of the supplied 1/2" dia. 20pitch 1-1/2" length wheel studs next to the 1/2" dia. 20pitch 2" length wheel studs by Alloy USA.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Nlosk32uNTk/TnUdyVHhpUI/AAAAAAAACG0/VW2zi6h6uVY/s800/2011-09-17_11-26-52_706.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-77dIWjgsx-Y/TnUd3DP0mJI/AAAAAAAACG4/1zzBhGwNfEY/s800/2011-09-17_12-39-42_8.jpg)
Forgot the flash, but that extra 1/2" makes a world of difference.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5i1MAxVPSI4/TnUeALeuofI/AAAAAAAACG8/dfat6R0d7As/s800/2011-09-17_12-23-11_978.jpg)
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Wow, those are some tiny studs. Glad you got it all back together.
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Wow, those are some tiny studs. Glad you got it all back together.
+1 I want to see if this actually fixes your problem! are you going to try it with the same rims and tires you did before?
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+1 I want to see if this actually fixes your problem! are you going to try it with the same rims and tires you did before?
I brought it up to 65-70 and there's considerably less vibration. Tires and rims have not changed position.
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I brought it up to 65-70 and there's considerably less vibration. Tires and rims have not changed position.
:thumb:
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One side of the bearing outer race has a ring that keeps the new race and the core together, once tightened in the ring shears off and acts as a spacer and the outer race floats. (Mine is that way anyhow and so was my other 44...)
Mine is a 1987 Cherokee limited axle, if that makes a difference..
Dave
Dave, one of my bearings had done exactly as you said. The race stayed in the housing upon removal of one of the shafts.
Ok, I've gone OCD on this one. I've had a sinking feeling all day about this. To squash that feeling, I've pinged both Timken and G2 Axle. Hopefully I'll get a response and I'll share it too.
I found a great tapper bearing damage guide in the process. http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/maintdiag/Documents/6347.pdf
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Six states told me it supposed to work that way, its to make installation easier....
Dave
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Six states told me it supposed to work that way, its to make installation easier....
Dave
that makes sense actually