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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: bammerman on December 30, 2011, 09:39:39 AM
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Well I am still running into the no oil pressure. I have a quick question, well 2.
1. My original mechanic never boiled the block and my current mechanic thinks there could be a clog. All my old mechanic did was douse the engine in about 30 cans of oven cleaner.
Will a 97-00 TJ 4.0 engine work with my computer (88 4.0) and mount to my AX15?
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found this and not sure if it is a direct bolt on or not.
1992 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE
4.OL engine-127k-good-$500 exch
it is out of an auto and mine is a manual but that should matter... right?
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Well I am still running into the no oil pressure. I have a quick question, well 2.
1. My original mechanic never boiled the block and my current mechanic thinks there could be a clog. All my old mechanic did was douse the engine in about 30 cans of oven cleaner.
Will a 97-00 TJ 4.0 engine work with my computer (88 4.0) and mount to my AX15?
there is an easy way to check if there's a clog before you buy another engine, take the oil pressure sender off, take the oil filter off, blow air thru the oil pressure sender port and it should come out at the oil filter. also, you could take out the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill (you'd need a shaft, easy to make and your mechanic might have one already) - oil should start coming out at the oil filter. Put the oil filter on and spin the pump again, oil should come out at the oil pressure sender port. put the pressure sender back in and spin the pump again - you should show some pressure (even if low), if it's zero then there's a problem with the sender
did your mechanic hook up a mechanical pressure gauge there to rule out the sender?
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Ya he did. He thinks it could be a blocked galley way. I still need to check the bearings. I was looking at that engine because it is an HO, just not sure if it will be a direct swap from my non-ho. It is a complete engine from back to front.
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Ya he did. He thinks it could be a blocked galley way. I still need to check the bearings. I was looking at that engine because it is an HO, just not sure if it will be a direct swap from my non-ho. It is a complete engine from back to front.
blow air thru the galley at the sender with the oil filter removed as i described in the previous post and then test if the oil pump is priming and pushing oil out at the oil filter (my guess is the latter is the issue).
you won't be getting the HO horsepower with the 88 MPFI.
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I will have to check and see if injection systems comes with it.
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I will have to check and see if injection systems comes with it.
try to figure out the oil pressure on this one first, could be as simple as the oil pickup to be pressed against the pan - no reason to spend a pile of cash on another swap if you can have this one running
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true, I do have to replace some of the bearings because with him driving it to my house with little oil pressure it scored the bearings and created a knock. this guy is out of business now so been just trying to do the little things via a manual I bought.
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true, I do have to replace some of the bearings because with him driving it to my house with little oil pressure it scored the bearings and created a knock. this guy is out of business now so been just trying to do the little things via a manual I bought.
if he drove it like that (with no oil pressure) i'm not surprised he's out of business. i don't think the bearings alone will do, if these got scored then the crank is most likely damaged as well.
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^ thats why I wanted to get the other engine until I get this one fully fixed. This one does come with the injectors, etc... and everything else. he replaced all the gaskets minus the head gasket. Says it runs like a champ and even warranty's it. 575.00 to be up and running again with the top off is worth it I think. That and then I can focus on this engine and try to figure out wtf is wrong with it.
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Well, he could pull the distributor, make an adapter rod and spin the oil pump safely without having to run the engine. Then remove the valve cover and or oil sender and see what leaks.
Might want to drop the pan and see if the screen is clogged if you're not getting pressure before throwing big money at it.
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Well, he could pull the distributor, make an adapter rod and spin the oil pump safely without having to run the engine. Then remove the valve cover and or oil sender and see what leaks.
Might want to drop the pan and see if the screen is clogged if you're not getting pressure before throwing big money at it.
if he's got a knock already he might need to pull it anyway, so I changed my mind and don't think would be a weekend job to get it fixed. On the other hand it's not clear what the other engine is like (running like a champ is not really a good way to evaluate how long will be running).
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well another question. The new 4.0 (said screw it and got the newer one). now the exhaust manifold is different. The 88 has some pipes going into where the throttle body is as the newer one doesn't. I do not think it will mount. Also are the computers the same or should I just take the manifolds off the 88 and put on the 92 engine.
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well another question. The new 4.0 (said screw it and got the newer one). now the exhaust manifold is different. The 88 has some pipes going into where the throttle body is as the newer one doesn't. I do not think it will mount. Also are the computers the same or should I just take the manifolds off the 88 and put on the 92 engine.
Completely different engine management.
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the tubes you are talking about i am guessing is the EGR system (again, just guessing, hard to tell what it is just by description).
like Jeffy said it is a completely different injection system, nothing would be interchangeable between the 2.
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I think you are right sharp about the EGR. What I was planning on doing was taking my manifolds and swapping them on to the new block, but a buddy asked why I dont keep the upgraded inject system and intake. I didnt think my computer would support that, so that is why I asked. Here are some pictures. Would love to swap the exhaust manifold only and cap that pipe that leads to the intake manifold but dont think it is possible.
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forgot to post my current plan in plain thought.
I plan on taking off the old intake and exhaust manifolds from the 88 4.0 and putting them on the new block from the 92 so I can use the same connections, etc.. from the 88 4.0 I had installed. I know I lose the HO but at this point just want it running. 2 years without my baby and just looking at it sit is sad.
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progress update --
Since I am now doing this alone (no help o.0, gonna be reading this manual a ton) I have replaced the valve cover and intake manifold gaskets. Going to replace the timechain gasket and oilpan gasket and throw this baby in. hopefully since I am using the old manifolds everything will mount up correctly (exhaust) and plug and play after that to run. fingers crossed
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progress update --
Since I am now doing this alone (no help o.0, gonna be reading this manual a ton) I have replaced the valve cover and intake manifold gaskets. Going to replace the timechain gasket and oilpan gasket and throw this baby in. hopefully since I am using the old manifolds everything will mount up correctly (exhaust) and plug and play after that to run. fingers crossed
it's a good idea to replace the front and rear crank seals as well, they're cheap and it's easy with the motor out.
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How easy when sitting on an engine stand?