4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: neale_rs on January 25, 2012, 09:59:54 AM
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Does anybody on this board have any references on:
RWK Haus Supply
http://www.rwkhaussupply.com/magento/
They are in California and they quoted me a very reasonable price on a HP44 for YJ but I would like to know if they are a good quality axle shop.
Thanks
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Does anybody on this board have any references on:
RWK Haus Supply
http://www.rwkhaussupply.com/magento/
They are in California and they quoted me a very reasonable price on a HP44 for YJ but I would like to know if they are a good quality axle shop.
Thanks
Never heard of them. Is it a custom axle or a OEM?
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They would build a Ford HP Dana 44 center with new 3" tubes, ready to bolt into a YJ, reusing the D30 outer knuckles and brakes. The alloy outer shafts would be shipped with the axle.
Some internet searching brought up nothing but good comments about them.
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They would build a Ford HP Dana 44 center with new 3" tubes, ready to bolt into a YJ, reusing the D30 outer knuckles and brakes. The alloy outer shafts would be shipped with the axle.
Some internet searching brought up nothing but good comments about them.
I have not heard of them.
The only thing you will gain with the D44/D30 combo is a bigger R&P and inner axle would be 30 spline. I guess the housing would be a bit stronger. Hard to say if that is worth the money.
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There are two things I'm considering:
1) Stronger housing -- just so it is harder to bend
and
2) Stronger R&P -- so that the R&P doesn't become the weak link once alloy shafts are installed.
Also, Reid knuckles could be added later to turn it into a full D44 with locking hubs. Not sure if the inner Cs and ball joints are any weaker or about the same as D44 inner Cs and ball joints.
But, I'm still not sure if it is worth the money.
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You would/could stay 5 on 4.5 for your wheels. That saves a bunch of money.
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Generally speaking you gain around 130% in strength by going with a D44 over a D30. You'll also save a lot by going with 30 outers but that would prevent you from going to manual hubs later on without having to spend a lot to get knuckles that fit the D30. I doubt you'll lose any strength with D30 outers. You gain some by going without the complicated manual hubs BUT then you lose the fuse as well as the reduced rolling resistance.
Not really sure if it's worth it unless you're really into your wheels. You could get your rear axle drilled to match and then swap to 5 on 5.5" patterns. If you're not going to/want to change a lot and are fine with your Jeep overall, then I don't see it as being an issue. IIRC, they will probably only cut the long side and use off the shelf SJ Wagoneer axles which helps lower the cost and give you standard shafts you can order from just about anyone.
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Going deeper than 4.88's is a huge plus. That was the #1 reason I did the HP44. If I was going to stay with 4.88's I would have kept the D30. Plenty strong for 35's and a bit of common sense. More so with cromo's and good joints.
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Maybe the best way to see it is: Upgrade the D30 (cheapest option) and if it bends or breaks too much, upgrade to D60s!
Overall, the D30 seems to have a very good chance of working out well for my tire size (33s) and type of wheeling (mid level rocks trails and scenic trips). I'll be keeping the 4.56 gears too, so one more point in favor of the D30.
Thanks for the comments.
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Maybe the best way to see it is: Upgrade the D30 (cheapest option) and if it bends or breaks too much, upgrade to D60s!
Overall, the D30 seems to have a very good chance of working out well for my tire size (33s) and type of wheeling (mid level rocks trails and scenic trips). I'll be keeping the 4.56 gears too, so one more point in favor of the D30.
Thanks for the comments.
Honestly, if you're not breaking it and you haven't had issues with it then you'll probably be fine keeping it. If you want to beef it up some then swap in TJ axle shafts and add some seals to get rid of the disconnect. Spare shafts would be relatively inexpensive compared to the cost of a D44. Truss the top if you want to. You don't want deeper gear and it sounds like you want to keep 5 on 4.5" pattern. It doesn't sound like a D44 is a good way to spend your money.
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They would build a Ford HP Dana 44 center with new 3" tubes, ready to bolt into a YJ, reusing the D30 outer knuckles and brakes. The alloy outer shafts would be shipped with the axle.
Some internet searching brought up nothing but good comments about them.
i don't know about the D30 brakes, it's one of the things it lacks so i would think an upgrade is in order if you go D44 anyway, why reuse the low performing rotors/calipers.
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i don't know about the D30 brakes, it's one of the things it lacks so i would think an upgrade is in order if you go D44 anyway, why reuse the low performing rotors/calipers.
The strange thing is that my YJ brakes really well. It can actually lock the front tires on dry pavement by really stepping on it. I've had trouble with the rear brakes skidding first, but getting lower friction shoes fixed that issue.
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Honestly, if you're not breaking it and you haven't had issues with it then you'll probably be fine keeping it. If you want to beef it up some then swap in TJ axle shafts and add some seals to get rid of the disconnect. Spare shafts would be relatively inexpensive compared to the cost of a D44. Truss the top if you want to. You don't want deeper gear and it sounds like you want to keep 5 on 4.5" pattern. It doesn't sound like a D44 is a good way to spend your money.
The thing is that with a locker going in, that changes the game quite a bit. But one thing is that I think having lockers actually makes it easier on the housing, as far as bending tubes is concerned (not for torque loads), because you can crawl more instead of using momentum to get over things. I'm tending towards the D30 upgrade right now.
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The thing is that with a locker going in, that changes the game quite a bit. But one thing is that I think having lockers actually makes it easier on the housing, as far as bending tubes is concerned (not for torque loads), because you can crawl more instead of using momentum to get over things. I'm tending towards the D30 upgrade right now.
Yes and no. Since you have that crawler box, you'll be able to control the speed much better. If you get a locker like an ARB or even a Detroit should be fine. It will crawl and slip very slowly. The problem with most breaks comes from a shock load. You'll usually break U-joints at that point which is better then breaking axle shafts, housings or R&P's.
So there isn't 3 threads on the same subject stick to the 30 or 44 thread. You've got three parts of the same conversation going on all over the place.
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He's in Yorba Linda,CA. He has done all my axle work and no one can beat his prices. Alot of SoCal guys use him, I have had him do 3 regears and refered him to alot of other happy Jeepers.
So you can be safe in dealing with him. He has a Bad ass Cheeroke that he does Rock Crawling in, so he is a fellow off roader.
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That's quite a recommendation. Thanks