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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: 95 Lowbuck on February 04, 2012, 07:00:52 PM
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So my CAD quit working and I decided to just get
a TJ axle and the Napa seal and be done it.
At teardown of the CAD motor I noticed water coming
out of the ports.
So I cycled the diaphram upside down by hand a few times
to get all the water out and it started working again.
Would look there first if any CAD problems.
Still doing the axle swap, got all the parts.
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what's CAD?
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Central Axle Disconnect
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Central Axle Disconnect
i heard of it being called Quick Axle Disconnect or passenger axle disconnect, didn't know it's also called CAD or Central - good to know.
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I just put in a posi lok cable system. ditch the vacuum lines and switches
http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_jeep.html (http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_jeep.html)
(http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/images/Kits/kit900_lg.jpg)
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I just put in a posi lok cable system. ditch the vacuum lines and switches
http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_jeep.html (http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_jeep.html)
(http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/images/Kits/kit900_lg.jpg)
i've heard guys running this with a spool up front and use this posi lock instead of a selectable locker, is that what you did or just wanted to get rid of the vac motor?
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I only got rid of the vacuum
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i've heard guys running this with a spool up front and use this posi lock instead of a selectable locker, is that what you did or just wanted to get rid of the vac motor?
I've also heard of some people doing that but it's a weak point. Better to with a locker and swap out the shafts for TJ stuff. Most YJ's are going to have the 260x instead of the 297x U-joints anyway.
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Or simply install the disconnect upside down to hold the shift collar in the locked position and you save money and time.
I ran a front spool with my CAD for years, no problems. Had a manual vacuum switch on the d30 and now a cable to control the disco 44. Poor-man's selectable :smokes:
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Or simply install the disconnect upside down to hold the shift collar in the locked position and you save money and time.
I ran a front spool with my CAD for years, no problems. Had a manual vacuum switch on the d30 and now a cable to control the disco 44. Poor-man's selectable :smokes:
:thumb: good to know. I do highway with my yj and it vibrates cause I don't have double cardigan joints on my front shaft for the angle I am running but the cable works good for me.
with the spool does it spin the front shaft when the disconnect is disengaged?
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:thumb: good to know. I do highway with my yj and it vibrates cause I don't have double cardigan joints on my front shaft for the angle I am running but the cable works good for me.
with the spool does it spin the front shaft when the disconnect is disengaged?
yes, it would spin the front shaft
i don't think the problem is that you don't have a CV joint (you shouldn't need one in front unless you run some ridiculous amount of lift since the d/s is quite long), the issue as far as i know is that the YJ front d/s is not balanced, that would fix your vibration. not that a CV would hurt but i don't think you don't need it.
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:thumb: good to know. I do highway with my yj and it vibrates cause I don't have double cardigan joints on my front shaft for the angle I am running but the cable works good for me.
with the spool does it spin the front shaft when the disconnect is disengaged?
Yes
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X2, it is most likely that your front DS needs to be balanced, or worst case is slightly bent. I'm currently running the front with a single cardan DS and the front axle connected with no noticeable vibrations.
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yes, it would spin the front shaft
i don't think the problem is that you don't have a CV joint (you shouldn't need one in front unless you run some ridiculous amount of lift since the d/s is quite long), the issue as far as i know is that the YJ front d/s is not balanced, that would fix your vibration. not that a CV would hurt but i don't think you don't need it.
This is correct. The front driveshafts weren't balanced since they weren't designed to spin all the time. 4WD is supposed to be limited to 55MPH and only spins the shaft when in 4wd. Add a locker or a LSD and the front shaft spins 24/7. This can also cause pinion seals to leak if the shaft hasn't turned in a while.
So any vibrations are probably from an inbalanced driveshaft or poor U-joint angles.
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This is correct. The front driveshafts weren't balanced since they weren't designed to spin all the time. 4WD is supposed to be limited to 55MPH and only spins the shaft when in 4wd. Add a locker or a LSD and the front shaft spins 24/7. This can also cause pinion seals to leak if the shaft hasn't turned in a while.
So any vibrations are probably from an inbalanced driveshaft or poor U-joint angles.
I'm guessing mine is a bit of both it shakes before 55mph for me. but my angle isn't the best with my lift. I was thinking about finding a TJ front drive shaft with the double cardan joint
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I'm guessing mine is a bit of both it shakes before 55mph for me. but my angle isn't the best with my lift. I was thinking about finding a TJ front drive shaft with the double cardan joint
you would have to adjust the pinion angle if that is the issue, going to a cv joint at the t-case won't change that (for what is worth would be slightly more since you'd be pushing the outer CV u-joint forward) that also involves realigning the Cs on the axle to regain the caster angle (and not get the wobble issue) - TJ drivesaft would def help since it's balanced so that might solve your problem (i have no idea if it's CV or not but they are balanced since the pass axle is one piece).
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you would have to adjust the pinion angle if that is the issue, going to a cv joint at the t-case won't change that (for what is worth would be slightly more since you'd be pushing the outer CV u-joint forward) that also involves realigning the Cs on the axle to regain the caster angle (and not get the wobble issue) - TJ drivesaft would def help since it's balanced so that might solve your problem (i have no idea if it's CV or not but they are balanced since the pass axle is one piece).
Yup, if you don't rotate the inner knuckles (C's), you'll end up with less caster which will probably give you 0-1*. It would be better/cheaper to just get the YJ shaft balanced though.