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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: fobanger00 on April 27, 2012, 07:43:33 AM
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i dont have alot of money and can't buy any axles at the moment but i need something to upgrade the d35 so i can move... it says for the size tires i have i should have 5.38 gearing, i couldnt find that ratio for ring and pinion, is it worth doing this?
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Just do 4.88's. That is as low as you can go with the D30/D35.
I had 4.88's with 35's for a while it's not to bad.
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http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,10612.0.html
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,10508.0.html
???
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If you have a manual transmission, it is better to just make due until you can get a better rear axle. If you have an automatic transmission, it is better to make due until you can get a better rear axle. Don't put a cent into the D35. It would be better to get some cheap used wheels and used 31" tires for daily use and just put on the 35s for trail use.
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I would agree with not spending any money on the D35 unless you need to buy parts to get back on the road.
If you don't wheel much and do mostly daily driving then you would be OK. But sooner or later the D35 will give you problems if wheeled hard.
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What size tires do you have? I do remember responding on a similar thread you started, so my response is going to be quite similar. To keep it relavent to the ring/pinion topic i will say this: unless you are willing to dump money into the D35 to beef it up, ie Super35 or the like, i would NOT advise spending the $$ to regear. The average person usually takes their axles to be regeared by a shop, so i assume you are in the same boat. The average shop will charge around $600-800 in labor only PER axle. That doesn't include the gears and master overhaul kits needed, that will run you an extra $250 or so. Now even if you DO have the $$ laying around to beef up the D35 and regear, my only question would be..why? You can still get a Ford 8.8 from a junk yard for about $120-200 that will be stronger than that beefed up D35, buy a bracket kit (easiest would prob be the truss kit from IronRock off road) and weld it on yourself or have a weld-savy friend do it...or a shop, and save yourself the cash from upgrading the D35. Im thinking you're prob running 35s on that D35? Junk that axle and swap in an 8.8 and don't look back.
Oh, and a BUNCH of 8.8s are available with 4.10 gearing too, so that wouldn't be bad right there if you wanna save some more $$ and just regear the front to 4.10 and just live with it not being at its full potential gear-wise until you have enough $$ to do it properly.
Oh, i like that fat chicks/tint signature :lol:
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What size tires do you have? I do remember responding on a similar thread you started, so my response is going to be quite similar. To keep it relavent to the ring/pinion topic i will say this: unless you are willing to dump money into the D35 to beef it up, ie Super35 or the like, i would NOT advise spending the $$ to regear. The average person usually takes their axles to be regeared by a shop, so i assume you are in the same boat. The average shop will charge around $600-800 in labor only PER axle. That doesn't include the gears and master overhaul kits needed, that will run you an extra $250 or so. Now even if you DO have the $$ laying around to beef up the D35 and regear, my only question would be..why? You can still get a Ford 8.8 from a junk yard for about $120-200 that will be stronger than that beefed up D35, buy a bracket kit (easiest would prob be the truss kit from IronRock off road) and weld it on yourself or have a weld-savy friend do it...or a shop, and save yourself the cash from upgrading the D35. Im thinking you're prob running 35s on that D35? Junk that axle and swap in an 8.8 and don't look back.
Oh, and a BUNCH of 8.8s are available with 4.10 gearing too, so that wouldn't be bad right there if you wanna save some more $$ and just regear the front to 4.10 and just live with it not being at its full potential gear-wise until you have enough $$ to do it properly.
Oh, i like that fat chicks/tint signature :lol:
Still want to know where you get a 8.8 for that cost. Most around me have it for much more. even this guy paid more for it.
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html#price
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Still want to know where you get a 8.8 for that cost. Most around me have it for much more. even this guy paid more for it.
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html#price
just looked here http://www.car-part.com
low: $150
high: $1000
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Most are not 4.10 and the lowest priced ones are the front Diff.
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Most are not 4.10 and the lowest priced ones are the front Diff.
there are 2 of them with 4.10 listed ratio for $250, there are some for $150 with the ratio unknown ( i selected 8cyl 4.10 ratio in search EDIT: unless that's not 8.8 ).
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yeah i am running 35's, i will check the junkyards around me. how much in totaly would you think i would be spending to get it all geared and fitting into my jeep? they make an 8.8 for tj's that bolts right in with anything you want on it but it is around 2000$ i have about a 1000$ and its not growing quick enough
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I got my 8.8 for $175 at a junkyard in New Milford CT, 1 week later i found out i overpaid when a kid in my town went to a junkyard close to my place and got his for $135. I was dumb for not checking my local yard. They are a very common axle. Mine happened to be 3.73 gearing, his was 4.10 and posi (limited slip). $1600 or so will get you one all dolled up and ready to swap in from ECGS, add 200 or so for a locker if i remember. Basically i figure as follows: an 8.8 under 700 bucks will still save you money if you figure $700 for axle, $250 for gears and parts, $200 for bracket or truss, and $500 for labor (though labor would be less if you are swapping in the axle yourself).
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The 4.1"s are usually found on the V8 Limited. I dont think they were offered on the lesser models. You could also get a disc brake 8.8 from a Lincoln town car, grand marquis or crown Vic. If you look at older ones from those models you'll find ford 9's with discs. Newer V8 mustangs should also have the 8.8 as well I think. The v6's have the 7.5.
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Does Explorer have the 8.8? That's what i used in the search and specified v8 w/ 4.10
if you select 6cyl 4.10 there's tons of them but i have no idea what axle is that.
EDIT: i googled and apparently Explorer 8.8:
- comes with 31 spline axles (compared to 28 spline in some other vehicles like the Ranger)
- '95 and newer have disc brakes
- most come with Limited Slip (Traction Lok) diff
- has thicker 3.25'' axle tubes
- 5x4.5 bolt pattern
- 59.5'' width between wheel mounting surfaces (not sure what the Jeep is at but for the record was mentioned that the Explorer 8.8 is 1.5'' narrower)
- pinion has 30 splines, 1.625'' diameter
- upgrade to 33 or 35 spline a/m axle shafts available
- larger bearings compared to D44 (and so are the axle shafts, ring and pinion)
Found this very good info here http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235261
The axle shaft strength tested by Warn Ind:
F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)
D44= 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)
D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)
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COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating
(Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.)
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500]
drawbacks
axle tubes should be welded to the diff housing as apparently the plug welds fail in time
pinion yoke needs to be replaced
all the mounting tabs and brackets need to be cut and new ones welded on (for suspension arms, shocks, etc)
pinion is offset 2'' from the center (as i understand that's not really an issue though)
they are c-clip shafts, there are eliminator kits available though
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Anybody use these guys.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-4764225-ford-8-8-rear-axle-bolt-in-yj-assembly.html
Good way to get every thing I want Disk brakes and Locker while getting a stronger set up. And its the 8.8
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Anybody use these guys.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-4764225-ford-8-8-rear-axle-bolt-in-yj-assembly.html
Good way to get every thing I want Disk brakes and Locker while getting a stronger set up. And its the 8.8
I bought the bracket set and gears from them. I'd suggest the truss from Ironrock as it's one piece and would be less labor than welding on seperate brackets. ECGS will set you up with a complete, ready to swap in axle with posi and disk brakes for around 1600 and a few hundred more for a locker. Still cheaper to pull it from a junk yard and just order parts from ECGS.