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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: stan98tj on May 13, 2012, 06:08:52 AM
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New sound system isn't at the top of my list of things to do when i get home, BUT if i have a little $$ left over, I'd like to upgrade the system (or lack of system) that i have now and I'd like you guys to chime in on what you think is best.
AS for the deck: I kind of like the one Aka-Justin has in his Rubi: Sony DSX-S300BTX. I'm basically lookin for one that will play the songs off my Iphone and have bluetooth and phone capability. Being able to acess phone list from the deck would be nice and Pandora app would be nice too. I think the Sony DSX-S300BTX has all that.
For sound: I do NOT want a subwoofer. I don't want to give up what little trunk space i have to a sub. I was thinking briefly about the center console sub but i fear that i won't have much room in the console AND i may ruin it as i like to hose out the jeep interior. SO i am for now basically looking for the best speakers available that will fit the sound bar and the front dash (6" in the sound bar and 4x6 in the dash i think) and will provide the best sound without a sub.
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Being able to acess phone list from the deck would be nice and Pandora app would be nice too. I think the Sony DSX-S300BTX has all that.
DSX-S310BTX is the deck that has the Pandora control. The older model, DSX-S300BTX doesn't. I'd also recommend the external mic, unless you don't mind pulling over to talk on the phone - the internal mic doesn't work with the road noise.
For sound: I do NOT want a subwoofer. I don't want to give up what little trunk space i have to a sub. I was thinking briefly about the center console sub but i fear that i won't have much room in the console AND i may ruin it as i like to hose out the jeep interior. SO i am for now basically looking for the best speakers available that will fit the sound bar and the front dash (6" in the sound bar and 4x6 in the dash i think) and will provide the best sound without a sub.
The TJ had a stock sub option in the console. If you can get some 6x9's in the rear, you'll have enough low end to not worry about a sub. If you have a soft top, I'd recommend a 4 channel amp to power over the road noise or when you go topless.
http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Wrangler-6x9-Enclosure-Pair/dp/B001DYC7TO/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51ykJQvH1hL._AA300_.jpg)
Crutchfield also is great when you buy your deck or speakers through. You can save $20 from my refferal code, you get all the needed connections to adapt deck and speakers, and lifetime tech support. [ Crutchfield Referral Code: pghjc-qve6j-vsgyj ] www.sonicelectronix.com is another site that does the same, but I never pulled the trigger through them. My brother-in-law has boughten a lot from them.
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The TJ had a stock sub option in the console. If you can get some 6x9's in the rear, you'll have enough low end to not worry about a sub. If you have a soft top, I'd recommend a 4 channel amp to power over the road noise or when you go topless.
http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Wrangler-6x9-Enclosure-Pair/dp/B001DYC7TO/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51ykJQvH1hL._AA300_.jpg)
Crutchfield also is great when you buy your deck or speakers through. You can save $20 from my refferal code, you get all the needed connections to adapt deck and speakers, and lifetime tech support. [ Crutchfield Referral Code: pghjc-qve6j-vsgyj ] www.sonicelectronix.com is another site that does the same, but I never pulled the trigger through them. My brother-in-law has boughten a lot from them.
Ok, what if i wanted to stay strictly with the 2 speakers in sound bar and the 2 dash speakers (i also wouldnt mind putting a pair of those tweeters in the dash corners like the later model TJs have) what brand would give the best sound without the use of a sub. I dunno if im quite ready to even give up the wheel well space where those 6x9 u suggested are resting. Maybe i should upgrade to a multi speaker soundbar? Or does it not matter if im sticking 2 tweeters on the dash?
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I run a tri-way with two dash speakers and a sub in the back. If I was going to do it over, I'd get the 6.5" speaker boxes for the driver and passenger foot wells. Maybe components with the tweets on top of the dash. I still like the sub in the back. If I ever need the room, I disconnect two wires and the box comes out.
I had a custom setup before with some 5x7's under the doors on a MDF board screwed into the rocker. It worked well but if there is ever water inside the wood will get ruined if you don't seal it.
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I run a tri-way with two dash speakers and a sub in the back. If I was going to do it over, I'd get the 6.5" speaker boxes for the driver and passenger foot wells. Maybe components with the tweets on top of the dash. I still like the sub in the back. If I ever need the room, I disconnect two wires and the box comes out.
I had a custom setup before with some 5x7's under the doors on a MDF board screwed into the rocker. It worked well but if there is ever water inside the wood will get ruined if you don't seal it.
not much room as it is in the passenger footwells, also would prob ruin the speakers when i hose out the interior. The only sub i would consider at this time would be console mounted, but I would rather not even do a sub.
IF i want to replace the soundbar speakers and dash speakers, what brand gives the best sound possible given the lack of sub?
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Dash speakers and soundbars suck in general. If you're going to go thought the process of replacing the dash speakers make sure you get the 5.25" speaker adapters. The 4x6's suck and the 5.25"s are just a little better. At least they are more common as well. You might also see if you can upgrade the soundbars 5.25" with 6.5".
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Dash speakers and soundbars suck in general. If you're going to go thought the process of replacing the dash speakers make sure you get the 5.25" speaker adapters. The 4x6's suck and the 5.25"s are just a little better. At least they are more common as well. You might also see if you can upgrade the soundbars 5.25" with 6.5".
I replaced the stock 4x6 ones with Pioneers a while back and remembered the space was kind of tight, im surprised you can fit 5.25" in there.
I think my soundbar speakers are already 6.5".
So pair 5.25" up front, 6.5s in the soundbar, pair of tweeters on dash. Any particular brand speaker to go with? Just want the best sound available for the setup i'm considering.
And is my assumption that a sub in console will render very limited actual console space and make hosing out the interior impossible?
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I don't really like the console speaker idea. It's too small and takes up a lot of room. Not to mention, you can't remove it. Honestly, you could make a sub box and install a small 8" or a 10" and get decent sound. Unlike other speakers a sub is non-directional. This means you can mount it just about anywhere you want to. If you make a custom box, you can hide it easily.
Those boxes justin linked to could have been made with subs. Really though, those boxes are too big for 6x9's. There is a lot of wasted room in them. You could have done a two-chamber box and mounted a 8" on the side of one with a 6x9 in the front. Keep in mind that subs want to really be fired into something solid. Placement should be a few inches off a wall of some type for best performance. Down-firing boxes are popular and depending on the speaker and don't need to be that big. My 8" is in a 12x12x13 box but that really could be 6x15x16 so it would sit flatter. I'd like to actually switch up to a 10". I've seen some speakers mounted to the cage as well. 5.25" or 6.5" mounted above the driver and pass. in the front and same speakers behind. Integrated into the cage as gussets. I've also seen an SAS Bazooka bolted to the cage in the back. You can even get a marine SAS which is waterproof. The 8's aren't that big and do put out a decent thump since they are band-pass.
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I have ModPods under the doors and sound wedges for 6X9 speakers on the rear. Those two mods will improve sound drastically.
ModPods:
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/jfrabat/Jeep/DSC02247.jpg)
Sound Wedges:
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/jfrabat/Jeep/DSC02250.jpg)
Both of these pics were taken about 5 or 6 years ago, but these same components are still in there... As for the cup holders on the sound wedges, don't try placing bottles there; they will not stay there even on the road, much less off road!
Like Jeffy said, the stock location is not optimal for good sound, so if you plan to invest in your sound system, might as well relocate it to improve the sound quality. Just make sure you use plastic cone speakers for the ModPods if you expect them to last (mine have been underwater and undermud a couple of times and are still alive).
As for the sub, I run a 12" aluminum sub with an amp, but now a days, you can get the super slim subs and even make a box for them under the rear seat so you don't loose any space (there are a couple of threads on how to do this). You can also use the stock TJ location if you choose, but I would go for a 10" instead of a 8" if I were you.
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If those pods weren't so expensive I'd have them, too. I've added a board of MDF across that lower rocker area and it worked out pretty good. The only problem was rain from the doors being open and if the footwell flooded. I think something could be made with plastic or metal instead of MDF so water is less of an issue. Speaker, even paper ones are usually coated so water isn't a big problem as long as they aren't submerged.
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If those pods weren't so expensive I'd have them, too. I've added a board of MDF across that lower rocker area and it worked out pretty good. The only problem was rain from the doors being open and if the footwell flooded. I think something could be made with plastic or metal instead of MDF so water is less of an issue. Speaker, even paper ones are usually coated so water isn't a big problem as long as they aren't submerged.
You can always use fiberglass... not a fun product to sand, but final result works rather well.
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You can always use fiberglass... not a fun product to sand, but final result works rather well.
Not worth the effort. By the time you get the mats, resin and all the molds done you've probably wasted more time and money then $79.
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Ok, what if i wanted to stay strictly with the 2 speakers in sound bar and the 2 dash speakers (i also wouldnt mind putting a pair of those tweeters in the dash corners like the later model TJs have) what brand would give the best sound without the use of a sub. I dunno if im quite ready to even give up the wheel well space where those 6x9 u suggested are resting. Maybe i should upgrade to a multi speaker soundbar? Or does it not matter if im sticking 2 tweeters on the dash?
Most speakers that Crutchfield or Sonicelectronix sale sound good. If they don't, you'll see it in the reviews. I really like the Infinty Kappas and MB Quartz speakers. 6x9's add just a bit more depth over the 6.5" speakers, but it's not as much difference as a single 8" sub would add. Most speakers sound aweful without the amp - I'd stress that more over a sub, but a sub is like the cherry on a sunday. :trollface:
Adding tweeters without a sub is torture, in my opinion - as you don't wan't screaming highs without the depth to add to the volume. I'm only running a single 10" kicker sub in the rear with a custom box and it sounds awesome. Crutchfield sales a small predone 8" - 10" enclosures pre-amped and non-amped.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_663STEALTH/Select-Increments-Stealth-Pod.html?tp=131
(http://www.crutchfield.com.edgesuite.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/fixedscale/400/300//products/2007/663/x663STEALTH-o5.jpeg)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8PT/Sound-Ordnance-B-8PT.html?tp=114
(http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/fixedscale/400/300/products/2009/50/777/x777B8PT-f.jpeg)
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,10420.0.html
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Thb2wjtqkoU/TwP2hM2a87I/AAAAAAAACZU/gPf-dmhk8Ew/s512/2012-01-03_22-38-19_559.jpg)
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Will I need an amp if I add anymore speakers than the 4 I already have?
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Will I need an amp if I add anymore speakers than the 4 I already have?
No. Just souns so much better with some power. A deck has a hard time awakening speakers. You'll get better volume at higher levels - especialy when you have a soft top or no top on going down the freeway.
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Will I need an amp if I add anymore speakers than the 4 I already have?
if you have 4 outputs (2xFront + 2xRear) you can have 4 speakers, if you want more you need to take the pre-amp output(s) and add an amp. There's most likely a sub output as well (to which you would also need to add an amp to use it). The outputs are for a certain impedance speakers, so you need to match that rating when you buy your speakers, lower can burn your internal amp, higher you don't get the rated power out of them.
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I just recently saw a CJ that had boat speakers mounted to the rear diagonals of his cage. They were those boat speakers that mount on the wakeboard towers and look like pods or tubes. From where I was standing... about 30 ft away... it sounded excellent. They're also water resistant which is a big plus. Not sure on the rest of his set up though.
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i think I may also add sound pods on the front of the roll bar in addition to the soundbar which i have behind the roll bar
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if you have 4 outputs (2xFront + 2xRear) you can have 4 speakers, if you want more you need to take the pre-amp output(s) and add an amp. There's most likely a sub output as well (to which you would also need to add an amp to use it). The outputs are for a certain impedance speakers, so you need to match that rating when you buy your speakers, lower can burn your internal amp, higher you don't get the rated power out of them.
Its not ideal, nut you COULD wire two speakwers to the same output. Just dont do it parallel! But if you want good sound quality, then you need to go the amp route...
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Its not ideal, nut you COULD wire two speakwers to the same output. Just dont do it parallel! But if you want good sound quality, then you need to go the amp route...
Space is the issue, i don't want to take up too much space and i need everything to resist water. So an amp would be OK if it were thin enough and could be sealed. I dont think i want to mount anything to the floor of the trunk because i carry tools back there when I wheel. Maybe if there was an IKEA for sound system arrangement, that would help lol
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Its not ideal, nut you COULD wire two speakwers to the same output. Just dont do it parallel! But if you want good sound quality, then you need to go the amp route...
i might be wrong here but i thought if you have the amp rated for 4ohm speakers you can wire 2 speakers in parallel that have 8 ohm impedance - I meant to mention that in the previous post. On the other hand if you have 4 ohm speaker rated amp and you put 2 of these speakers in series you pretty much 1/2 the power output and in this case you shouldn't wire them in parallel (what you said).
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i might be wrong here but i thought if you have the amp rated for 4ohm speakers you can wire 2 speakers in parallel that have 8 ohm impedance - I meant to mention that in the previous post. On the other hand if you have 4 ohm speaker rated amp and you put 2 of these speakers in series you pretty much 1/2 the power output and in this case you shouldn't wire them in parallel (what you said).
Depends on the resistance of the speakers, but a few (OK, more than a few, but who's counting!) years back, I wired the stock stereo ofm Toyota CORONA to drive 2 speakers in the rear (series) and both the speakers and the stereo held up just fine. As I said, it is not IDEAL, but it works...
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Bought this cheap JVC "Digital Media Receiver" yesterday. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDX50BT/JVC-KD-X50BT.html?tp=5684 (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDX50BT/JVC-KD-X50BT.html?tp=5684)
Currently have a Kenwood receiver I paid 300-something for in like late 2003. Also have a Sirius tuner wired to it, but killed my satellite account awhile back -- just wasn't driving my Jeep enough and was using Pandora at my place anyway.
Was looking to get a new receiver that was compatible with Android phones and that would let you wirelessly play the Pandora app.
Wanted to get built in HD-Radio, but it didn't look like Crutchfield had anything along those lines in DMRs regardless of price.
So, got the $99 JVC unit that handles neither add-on HD-Radio or Satellite tuners (unless you maybe happen to be some kind of fairly l33t car receiver hacker)
Buyers at Crutchfield seemed to like this low-dough JVC unit pretty well. Let you guys know how it works.
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Bought this cheap JVC "Digital Media Receiver" yesterday. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDX50BT/JVC-KD-X50BT.html?tp=5684 (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDX50BT/JVC-KD-X50BT.html?tp=5684)
Currently have a Kenwood receiver I paid 300-something for in like late 2003. Also have a Sirius tuner wired to it, but killed my satellite account awhile back -- just wasn't driving my Jeep enough and was using Pandora at my place anyway.
Was looking to get a new receiver that was compatible with Android phones and that would let you wirelessly play the Pandora app.
Wanted to get built in HD-Radio, but it didn't look like Crutchfield had anything along those lines in DMRs regardless of price.
So, got the $99 JVC unit that handles neither add-on HD-Radio or Satellite tuners (unless you maybe happen to be some kind of fairly l33t car receiver hacker)
Buyers at Crutchfield seemed to like this low-dough JVC unit pretty well. Let you guys know how it works.
I've got this JVC receiver in and encountered an issue that you might experience if you have a tuffy center console with room for a receiver.
This JVC unit gives you the option of putting a little bluetooth plug in the front USB port or on the end of a wired USB cable at the rear of the receiver. If you install the JVC receiver in the tuffy center console and put the bluetooth plug in the front USB port, the metal lip on the Tuffy console obstructs the line-of-site between a windshield mounted phone and the receiver's blue tooth plug. This seems to cause significant reception problems between the phone and the receiver
What you do to get around this is put the bluetooth plug in the USB cable and stretch that cable underneath and out beyond the tuffy center console. Mount it under the carpet, etc. so that there is no real signal barrier between the phone and the receiver. Anyway, PITA and I've had to pull things out and put things back together to get this done.
Upside, though, with this JVC DMR is that the sound quality is surprisingly good.
No stretch here on my part, either. I'm using the same speakers as I used with my Kenwood and Sirius setup and somehow the Bluetooth/Pandora signal seems to be coming across with greater fidelity that the digital Sirius signal. Could be the JVC receiver, cheap as it may be, is simply technically "sorted out" better than the 8 year old, 3x more expensive Kenwood receiver.
Now, yes, I do have to admit I pay Pandora the $30 some a year for their higher quality signal. But even so, can't believe that's going to surpass Sirius digital in terms of sound quality. Anyway though, pretty happy with this JVC unit for $100 from Crutchfield -- heck I would have paid $300 for it and still thought I got my money's worth.
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I'm a huge audio junkie.
This is what I did: I gave up. Jeeps absolutely suck for getting any sort of sound quality out of them, due to several factors including a flat windshield, lots of metal surfaces, loud noises, limited space, as well as everything having the potential to get wet. Its hard to hide the speakers if you install them so I worry about parking in urban areas... Cause some people will do anything for crack rocks, and soft tops are a very small obstacle for a box knife. I just run junky 4x6's in the dash off of a CD headunit.
No great ideas here, sorry.
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I'm a huge audio junkie.
This is what I did: I gave up. Jeeps absolutely suck for getting any sort of sound quality out of them, due to several factors including a flat windshield, lots of metal surfaces, loud noises, limited space, as well as everything having the potential to get wet. Its hard to hide the speakers if you install them so I worry about parking in urban areas... Cause some people will do anything for crack rocks, and soft tops are a very small obstacle for a box knife. I just run junky 4x6's in the dash off of a CD headunit.
No great ideas here, sorry.
I was looking at rear speakers and amplifiers over at Crutchfield. One or two people there -- apparently with Jeeps -- sound like they got the audio output they were looking for by installing an amplifier. There are like 3 reviews for this pretty cheap Alpine amp used in TJs. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP445U/Alpine-KTP-445U-Power-Pack.html?tp=35782#customer-reviews-tab (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP445U/Alpine-KTP-445U-Power-Pack.html?tp=35782#customer-reviews-tab).
If I get some rear speakers -- nothing pricey, maybe the $70 Polks or Rockford Fosgates -- might spring for the Alpine amp or something small along those lines. The 4x6s I've got in the front are old Polk Momos that still sound good and the new JVC receiver is worth about one whole tank of gas :lol:, so my budget ceiling is staying pretty low when it comes to any additional components.
But you're right, long way from great environment in Jeeps for sound quality.
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my biggest concern is space. THat's why i don't want a sub. I want the best quality speakers possible to put into the dash and my soundbar. I may add pods on the sound bar as well, again with good qual speakers. If i can find a center console sub that resists water, then I MAY do that as well.
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my biggest concern is space. THat's why i don't want a sub. I want the best quality speakers possible to put into the dash and my soundbar. I may add pods on the sound bar as well, again with good qual speakers. If i can find a center console sub that resists water, then I MAY do that as well.
Well right off the bat, the stock locations for speakers is horrible. Not to mention the size limitation. Subs aren't limited to large wooden boxes. You can mount a sub just about anywhere you can think of. They are non-directional unlike regular speakers. Also, most speakers have treated paper or plastic cone with a foam or neoprene flex ring. There are even speakers that are waterproof. How do you think they put sound systems on ski boats? They have been making sound systems for SxS ATV's for a few years as well. All roll-bar mounted... Space really isn't an issue.
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So far, the downside on my cheap JVC DMR unit is a couple of things to do with bluetooth.
Lets say you have the vehicle started, you have the phone in the bracket like you were using it for navigation, the radio on, it still takes about 10 or so seconds before the radio gets a bluetooth connection with the phone. Then you've got to open up the Pandora or Spotify or whatever app on the phone and hit a bunch of things there. Oh yeah, and make sure the volume is all the way up on the phone handset since that controls volume as much as the volume knob from your receiver. Generally doesn't cut out once it is set up though.
So opinion using the JVC DMR bluetooth on the road is its a lot of work, but music is good and you don't mind so much once you get going. You can use any of the online music services, but Pandora seems to be the only one with display features worked in on the receiver. If you cut the voice on the phone navigation (which also starts to play through the speakers now) you can run navigation and music simultaneously -- just navigation is getting the display.
But...one thing. Kill the engine while you have phone and receiver connected by bluetooth. Phone stays on due to battery. Turn key back on so you can run accessories. Receiver comes back on. For whatever reason my receiver and phone don't get bluetooth going again. Have to -- IIRC -- dig around in "settings," and re-sync the phone and receiver, then you get a bluetooth signal again...
Certainly am going to go over the manual and so forth, because maybe there's a procedural error on my part. But, if so, then there you go: a new procedure, or more work, or new work to listen to music... :gimp: Given the thing was hitting 4.5 or 5 out of 5 on Crutchfield and Amazon on hundred-some reviews was figuring it'd be a slam-dunk.
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Well right off the bat, the stock locations for speakers is horrible. Not to mention the size limitation. Subs aren't limited to large wooden boxes. You can mount a sub just about anywhere you can think of. They are non-directional unlike regular speakers. Also, most speakers have treated paper or plastic cone with a foam or neoprene flex ring. There are even speakers that are waterproof. How do you think they put sound systems on ski boats? They have been making sound systems for SxS ATV's for a few years as well. All roll-bar mounted... Space really isn't an issue.
Was looking at my interior -- was going to put an amp in the tuffy center console and get some rear speakers. Well, rear speakers are going to have to sit in, probably, tuffy boxes on the wheel wells or I'm going to have to get a soundbar or TJ pods and gut those in favor of some other speakers. PITA. And my jeep isn't setup for a sub, so any new speakers would have be picking up the bass slack.
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I saw a real nice Jeep sub box in the back of the jeep many years ago... They used a house outlet on the box and hooked an old lamp cord up to the sub amp... when they needed to take the sub box out of the back, they simply unplugged it and carried it out, like unplugging a lamp. It was nicely carpeted and had handles. If you had time and some ingenuity, I bet you could make a quick disconnect harness (using say a 7 way trailer harness) for an amplifer to be mounted to the box too where that part of the stereo mess dissappears as well.
The bad part about sub boxes is, they take up space and they are a PAIN to hook back up. If that "pain" is reduced, when you can spare the space you can have a sub, its not a big deal to take it out/put it in.
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Besides the space issue, the only way I could run a sub with this JVC KD-X50BT receiver and an amplifier is if I powered the front pair of speaker and the sub through the amplifier without powering any rear speakers.
You can either do front speakers and a sub or front and rear speakers and no sub with this head unit, based on the connections it offers. This was an issue raised by a buyer in the Crutchfield forums; a Crutchfield forum manager said Crutchfield is going to emphasize this point in the Kd-X50BT listings now.
But frankly I was only looking to run front and "rear" speakers anyway -- just with the addition of an amp. But, not in love with my rear or overhead speaker mounting options...Don't want anything in the doors to dent, don't want a couple of speakers on the tunnel under the dash -- I'll dent those too, gets in way of air flow, AC install probably Lousy options. PITA PITA
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Chris...I think you have read my build thread. My Tuffy console was designed to House the standard Jeep sub (which I didn't have anyway...8"?) but I threw a Sony Xplod 10" in there anyway.
That was ok with my original Alpine head unit, but it wasn't until I added the Alpine amplifier (under my rear seat) and upgraded both front (dash w/adapters) and rear (sound bar) speakers to the 6.25"? That I had what I consider pretty decent sound.
About the only time I don't hear the stereo as well as I would like is when I'm doing 70 mph with the doors off and safari top on....and that's probably because I'm afraid to turn it up too loud and damage something. I can still hear it, just not as well depending on the wind.
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Chris...I think you have read my build thread. My Tuffy console was designed to House the standard Jeep sub (which I didn't have anyway...8"?) but I threw a Sony Xplod 10" in there anyway.
That was ok with my original Alpine head unit, but it wasn't until I added the Alpine amplifier (under my rear seat) and upgraded both front (dash w/adapters) and rear (sound bar) speakers to the 6.25"? That I had what I consider pretty decent sound.
About the only time I don't hear the stereo as well as I would like is when I'm doing 70 mph with the doors off and safari top on....and that's probably because I'm afraid to turn it up too loud and damage something. I can still hear it, just not as well depending on the wind.
Must have missed the part about the amplifier for the speakers, Moz. You talking damage in terms of damage to hearing ability maybe?
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Must have missed the part about the amplifier for the speakers, Moz. You talking damage in terms of damage to hearing ability maybe?
I think he refers to blowing out the speakers from too much power.
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I think he refers to blowing out the speakers from too much power.
That shouldn't be a problem as long as your peak wattage is less then the speakers.
Still with no top and doors, you might as well be wearing headphones. Even the crappiest headphones would sound better. Although wearing headphones is illegal in some states. I shake my head at the HD riders who have a stereo blaring while riding with straight pipes.
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With the windows zipped up on my old Sail Cloth top, interior noise isn't terrible. The top prop I picked up last year helps a bit with highway top noise, also.
Could see running 4 speakers (dash 4x6s, pair of 6x9s) through an amp, no sub and probably getting by ok provided the top was on, doors on, windows up. But, yeah, in terms of blocking highway noise interference to the ears, some "prize" headphones out of a Lucky Charms box would still probably do way better than any kind of amplified speaker setup. :lol:
Do see the merits of a hard-top and AC kit if you want audio quality and temps are up there.
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Have been messing around with the Spotify premium service -- fidelity with tracks is seemingly a bit better than Pandora. It has me seriously thinking: ah what the heck, buy a couple of tuffy boxes, a pair of 6x9s and a 4 channel amp.
The amp would need a direct connection to the battery. Am probably getting an electric fan on there before too long. And then I already have a lot connected to my Yellow Top as is...
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(http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg271/leeiaccoca/Winch.jpg)
I've got the winch mounted and it's wired up. Have a wired Warn remote. Winch sounds like it's running ok, but haven't operated it under any kind of load as yet (read the vinyl Warn covers were allegedly good at keeping rain out, but tended to trap moisture on the inside -- the vinyl winch cover doesn't "breath" like a good car cover. So, got the neoprene cover; it doesn't do much to block external moisture, but does breath some and presumably blocks UV.
(http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg271/leeiaccoca/Battery.jpg)
Was planning to install a MKVIII electric fan -- it'll be looking to connect directly to the battery, I guess. If I get a 4 channel amp, that's apparently going to have to be wired to the battery also.
Do have a 210 amp alternator installed. Haven't searched around on this question: What's the point where you install a second battery?
Daytime on-road driving, I'd expect the electric fan and amp to draw power. Nighttime it could be electric fan, amp, and headlights...
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Keep an eye on the neoprene, it's going to fade and dry-rot if you don't take care of it. So clean it and use UV protectant. You live in CA so moisture isn't a big deal.
You might also want to rotate all the the cables on the side post +12v so they're not stretched. The one red is at 12 and should be at 9-6 so it's not stretching the insulation. The main ground on top looks like it could be repositioned in the clamp as well. Is that Scotch Tape? Go to a hardware store and buy some electrical tape. Or better yet, buy some shrink tubing. You can slip it over the connector and add heat and it will shrink over the cable making it look professional.
As for the battery, I doubt you'll have any problems with your current setup. As long as your engine runs the alternator will keep up.
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That's actually "clear" Rescue Tape silicone tape. Had a partially used roll sitting around from something else. Will probably do some kind of shrink tubing when I get the chance. Will see about re-positioning the cables.
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depending on what the current drawn by the winch is 1 battery won't supply that current for a long time, even with the big alternator 2 batteries will provide that for a longer time (unless the current drawn by the winch is lower than the alternator output). And there's the odd case in which you can't run the motor when winching (on the side, tilted forward, etc when for example your oil pump is dry and you have no pressure) so that would shorten the time as well not to mention possibly draining it). but, with the 210Amp alternator (unless that's a typo) you're better than all (or mostly all) in that department.
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Have been messing around with the Spotify premium service -- fidelity with tracks is seemingly a bit better than Pandora. It has me seriously thinking: ah what the heck, buy a couple of tuffy boxes, a pair of 6x9s and a 4 channel amp.
The amp would need a direct connection to the battery. Am probably getting an electric fan on there before too long. And then I already have a lot connected to my Yellow Top as is...
Haven't picked up an amp, other speakers yet.
Will say that, once you get it sorted out, the little $100 JVC bluetooth receiver + a late model Android/IPhone (even Blackberry) is pretty great.
Using a service like Spotify where you can download/delete your selection of tracks to your phone for $10 a month is outstanding (imho); audio fidelity with Spotify comes across to me as better than what I was getting with Sirius when I had that going.
Couple of things my Android phone needed, though:
-App that let the Spotify menu screen rotate to landscape (thing was stuck in portrait; sideways music selecting was getting old). Went with "Smart Rotator."
-App that reconnects Bluetooth automatically. Went with "Bluetooth Reconnector."