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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Tr00b on May 25, 2012, 10:34:18 PM
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I just scored a new job...Money is alot better, but.... The good old commute is going to go from 30 min each way to 1 whole hour each way. I also lose my carpool... Going to be a dramatic change.
All I've got to drive is my Jeep 1997. Its pretty much stock except a spring lift (better than a budget boost) and 31" Cooper STT tires. It needs to have some work done to it but it still drives great and runs great. I'd love to pick up another car but if I can get ok fuel mileage out of it (20mpg or above) I'll just use it.
What is a reasonable expectation for fuel economy for a 4cyl Jeep? How much to my knobbies effect it and does it merit their removal? I know one thing, with the 31's its a total dog on the highway...
Does anyone else drive that far each day in their jeep?
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even all stock with 28'' tires you won't get 20mpg (maybe in a test all hwy if you drive constant speed at 40mph but otherwise forget it, real life scenario won't happen), any lift and bigger tires you add will keep cutting out of your gas mileage. I think brand new was rated at 18mpg (don't quote me though), but I owned 2 other Chrysler vehicles (not Jeep) and i can tell you that all the factory claims are complete b/s, in a daily driving situation will never happen. You'll find the odd guy claiming 24mpg with a 4 banger 'cause his gauge shown 3/4 tank and he drove 120 miles, you get the idea. If you want fuel economy look for a car with some shape that is not resembling a brick wall and smaller frontal area, the smaller the vehicle the better the mpg (and it goes for the newer the better at the same specs for engine size, weight and overall aerodinamic efficiency - weight comes in play more in city driving as compared to being aerodinamic is better at higher speeds like during hwy driving).
EDIT: found the factory when new mpg ratings, 16 city and 19 hwy (17 combined) http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymake/Jeep1993.shtml, but keep in mind that's new and all stock, not to mention the ideal scenario in which the test is conducted (get on the hwy, top up, drive constant speed at 50mph for 50 miles both ways, top up again and calculate the mpg, something like that). If you get 18 you're doing good.
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When I was commuting around 45-1hr, I was getting 18-19mpg or so with 35's. But then I was doing 65-70MPH in some areas, which is pretty fast. Other times, I was sitting idle in traffic, wasting fuel. I still think you'll be able to get into the 20's though.
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I believe that the current mpg has got to be down around 14-16. The roads I drive are all fairly crapo, lots of hills, hard corners and other associated nonsense that I usually must stay in 4th the entire time to conquer, then a bunch of up and down hills on the highway. Also at least 1/3 of it is city driving. If I'm going to keep up with traffic on the highway portion 3rd gear and 5krpm is not out of the question at all. I used to get about 22-23 mpg with my Ford Ranger 4cyl 2wd.
The Jeep is fine at this point, but if I'm relying on it every day, I'll need to throw some money at some nagging things that are wearing out, I'd say if I need oem size tires too it'll be around $1000.
If getting ok fuel mileage is out of the question, I'll get some other buggy.
SharpX: I agree with you that the Jeep is a poor choice for fuel economy. Believe me. But I was wondering what people were truly experiencing.
Jeffy: Was your rig geared right etc with the 35's? Thats pretty darn good...
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SharpX: I agree with you that the Jeep is a poor choice for fuel economy. Believe me. But I was wondering what people were truly experiencing.
i'm getting 14.5 to 15mpg with 33s and 4.88, can probably get 16 in the summer if i'm light on the throttle.
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My yellow Jeep has been getting 16 mpg for years on 35" tires on mixed driving.
More than half city and mostly short commutes (5miles each way)
Just highway driving it will get around 18 depending on the speed I drive at.
Stock tires would be a good start should be able to find some 215/75/15 or whatever the stock size is cheap
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funny thing with manufacturer fuel "economy" ratings, very inconsistent from year to year
1992 4.0L 5spd manual: 15 city / 20 hwy (same for '91)
1993 4.0L 5spd manual: 15 city / 18 hwy
1994 4.0L 5spd manual: 14 city / 17 hwy (same for '95)
the '91-'92 is funny like hell
they're all the same so i have no idea how they come up with these ratingsa
1998 4.0L 5spd manual: 15 city / 19 hwy
2000 4.0L 5spd manual: 14 city / 18 hwy
2002 4.0L 5spd manual: 14 city / 17 hwy
2005 4.0L 6spd manual: 13 city / 17 hwy - you'd think this one should be better in the city with the 6spd
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Well from what most say its right around 16 MPG and that is what I get on average.
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,2827.0.html
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Jeffy: Was your rig geared right etc with the 35's? Thats pretty darn good...
That's with 4.56's. I did calculate my mileage out once with a 32's and stock gears to 26-27 mpg but that was all highway and speeds of 50-55mph. All flat and used some drafting. I think I can do better then when I had 35's since I'm running 33x10.5's now. My city mileage is around 16-17 mpg. Before I switch tires my city was 14-15 mpg.
2005 4.0L 6spd manual: 13 city / 17 hwy - you'd think this one should be better in the city with the 6spd
Well I believe the EPA does the testing and the Mfg. just posts that. As for a 6-speed getting worse mileage in the city, it's typical. You're shifting a lot more so that's a lot of wasted energy. It's why hypermillers skip gears. They'll go from 1st to 3rd so they won't have that extra shift. IIRC, the 0-60 time for the older Evo 9, the 5-speed is 0.1 or 0.2 seconds faster then the 6-speed.
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Well I believe the EPA does the testing and the Mfg. just posts that. As for a 6-speed getting worse mileage in the city, it's typical. You're shifting a lot more so that's a lot of wasted energy. It's why hypermillers skip gears. They'll go from 1st to 3rd so they won't have that extra shift. IIRC, the 0-60 time for the older Evo 9, the 5-speed is 0.1 or 0.2 seconds faster then the 6-speed.
i'm not sure how they do it but here's a good one: we were looking at replacing the Caliber (my wife's car) with something else, i picked up some brochures at the dealer and looking thru them i checked the liters/100km ratings (the metric equivalent for mpg but it goes backwards, the lower the better) and they also had the mpg ratings in there as well, somehow it seemed high for some of the vehicles (should have kept those, darn - can't remember which ones they were) so i converted the L/100km to mpg, were all off by about 5 mpg or so (higher and not lower) which is a LOT.
I still have the Chrysler 200 one which i picked a lot later, let me do the math - it says the Pentastar has 3.6ltr, 283HP/260ftlb and does 42mpg or 6.8L/100km on the hwy. If you convert 6.8L/100km comes to 34.6mpg, so how the hell they come up with 42mpg out of that, for 42mpg should be 5.6L/100km.
Same for the 2.4L 4cyl, 173HP fuel economy listed at 44mpg (geez, it's not a hybrid) or 6.4L/100km - again, converting 6.4L/100km to mpg gives you 36.8mpg, off by a big 7.2 miles per gallon.
Let me check the Chrysler website...
just did and there it says 20 city and 31 hwy, so in that case even the 6.8L/100km doesn't stand, if you conver 31 comes to about 7.7L/100km. so that's a big 11mpg comparing the claims in the flyer with the ones on their website (i wonder if that's regulated or something, dunno but it's a big difference)
EDIT: it's even worse, the 31mpg is for the 2.4L engine so the difference is 13mpg between the website and the brochure.
i don't know, but the Canadian mile seems to be a lot shorter than the US one, i wonder if they did km/gallon instead, i can take a picture of that page if anyone thinks it's b/s, can't believe they do that.
EDIT: 44/1.60934=27.34, so it's not km/gallon
(1 mile = 1.609344 km)
(1 gallon = 3.78541178 liters)
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Well, I would guess that each country has their own version of the EPA and as such do their own testing. Also does Canada use Imperial Gallons or US gallons?
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Well, I would guess that each country has their own version of the EPA and as such do their own testing. Also does Canada use Imperial Gallons or US gallons?
liters, when you refer to gasoline then gallons it's US gallons especially when you talk mpg. Same for any container for gasoline or diesel, marketing gimmick i guess.
but looks like you're right they use Imperial gallons (i recalculated and 6.8L/100km is 41.5 Miles/Imperial Gallon) :lol: what they can come up with
although in this case they should use the nautical mile (1nautical mile = 1.852 km vs 1 mile = 1.609 km)
hang on a second, my Jeep gets 18mpg anyday now that i'm enlightened :roflol:
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just quickly checked the .ca sites for some brands
GM, Toyota, Honda/Acura, BMW, VW, Hyundai don't list the mpg for Canada only L/100km (which is the standard)
Kia does not list the fuel "economy" at all
Ford does the same as Chrysler using imperial gallons (Focus is listed at 59mpg)
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What I was going to do to improve the economy was to run synthetics in the axles, trans and transfer case. Replace the U-joints I haven't replaced yet, fix all the shyt brakes and replace the unit hubs on the front. I'm afraid to run synthetic engine oil as I have some scabbed over oil leaks on the front cover and perhaps a rear main... I never have to add a drop of oil but don't want to start.
Then replace the 31's with sensible inexpensive road tires like these:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=CrossContact+LX&partnum=175TR5CCLX&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
And put them on some on some alloy wheels from the J-yard or Craigslist to keep the weight down, unless I can find some nice take-offs.
It doesn't really feel good to pussify the Jeep, though...
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It doesn't really feel good to pussify the Jeep, though...
Then don't.
My parents found an old camary for $300, and the thing gets 30+ mpg. Has good tires and hasn't left them stranded - yet. It's ugle but saves gas money.
Found one similar that's close to me for $600, http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/3040469527.html
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Good call on the rice burner... I've been looking for a Honda CRX Si. I have done extensive work on 80's 90's Hondas and this winter did a head gasket on my little brother's 88 CRX and have a transmission, heads and parts etc piled in my garage. Not having luck finding one worth picking up though.
Is anyone a die hard Jeep commuter? Like, its the only thing you will drive? Or do you only use it when its crappy out? Or do you drive jeeps every day no matter what?
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What I was going to do to improve the economy was to run synthetics in the axles, trans and transfer case. Replace the U-joints I haven't replaced yet, fix all the shyt brakes and replace the unit hubs on the front. I'm afraid to run synthetic engine oil as I have some scabbed over oil leaks on the front cover and perhaps a rear main... I never have to add a drop of oil but don't want to start.
Then replace the 31's with sensible inexpensive road tires like these:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=CrossContact+LX&partnum=175TR5CCLX&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
And put them on some on some alloy wheels from the J-yard or Craigslist to keep the weight down, unless I can find some nice take-offs.
It doesn't really feel good to pussify the Jeep, though...
Well all of that stuff is preventive maintenance and won't really help raise the mileage.
You're already running pretty small tires and changing them won't make much of a difference unless you're running bias ply tires and or you want to save your good tires.
As said before weight is not the problem. Case in point. When I was commuting, I removed about 300-400lbs from my Jeep and it showed little to no difference. I also removed the passenger mirror as well as spare to clean up the lines. No luck. The Jeep was a bit peppier but no real change in mileage. I also run a hardtop, which does get a point better in mileage then a soft top. Aerodynamics is your #1 enemy. At 30-35mph, wind resistance becomes more of an issue then weight. The power to overcome air resistance increases roughly with the cube of the speed. So it quickly increases as you go faster.
Also, alloy which usually means Aluminum cast wheels, are probably not going to me much lighter unless you're buying aluminum forged wheels. The difference isn't going to be measurable unless you're counting the money in your wallet.
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Good call on the rice burner... I've been looking for a Honda CRX Si. I have done extensive work on 80's 90's Hondas and this winter did a head gasket on my little brother's 88 CRX and have a transmission, heads and parts etc piled in my garage. Not having luck finding one worth picking up though.
Is anyone a die hard Jeep commuter? Like, its the only thing you will drive? Or do you only use it when its crappy out? Or do you drive jeeps every day no matter what?
Right after I Bought my 94 I drove it every day. But gas Prices were much better. Even then on real good days it was motorcycle weather.
But Right after my By-pass i had trouble getting in and out of the Jeep and it was really cold that year and I could never get warm. So Bought my truck it gets 4-6 MPG better than the jeep and is much more comfortable. So now the jeep is for really bad weather.
Right now after I get back to working I'm looking at getting a VW Passat TDI that 43 MPG is real inviting. Never thought I would buy a car on fuel Economy. Still not buying a smart car, well maybe as a casket.
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Mine's a daily driver (35's with 4.88) and I don't think I've ever gotten better than 15 mpg.
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Good call on the rice burner... I've been looking for a Honda CRX Si. I have done extensive work on 80's 90's Hondas and this winter did a head gasket on my little brother's 88 CRX and have a transmission, heads and parts etc piled in my garage. Not having luck finding one worth picking up though.
Is anyone a die hard Jeep commuter? Like, its the only thing you will drive? Or do you only use it when its crappy out? Or do you drive jeeps every day no matter what?
I'm diehard on daily driving my jeep. I've been told numerous times how dumb that is given the poor mpg. I've had (at best) 19mpg once on my 31s when driving down to Charlotte, NC from CT, all highway of course and there may have been some drafting. I did a trip to baltimore on my 33s and after a pretty long stretch it came out to around 18. Basically the 33s didn't change the mpg all that much. Around town mixed with highway and and daily driving I get 14-15, and now lower than that with the new gearing. THe gearing is what hurt me the most. I refuse to get another car, mostly because I love the Jeep so much but also because I don't really want to buy a new car and have a monthly payment for it just so I can get better mpg. Now if I buy one outright used, I can allow for up to $10k and no more. For $10,000 I'm gonna be looking at some very used vehicles-and I would have to find one I'd actually be willing to drive, but in their used condition,warranty wouldn't be great and I'd end up having to dump $$ in them too...i'm already dumping $$ in the jeep so why get another car that is going to bleed me out as well..
SO, diesel swap this summer. 28-30mpg sounds like a reasonable figure with the 1.9l. I've heard of 25-28 with the 4bt. Now if you are deadset on gettting a second car and while we are on the subject of diesel, a VW with a 1.9l (Passat or Jetta) would be VERY economical. I sailed with a 2nd mate who has a 99 Jetta TDI, 240k on the clock and gets above 50mpg with it. Sucks in the snow though, he says snow tires or chains make a little difference but he just drives his truck in the snow. My fiance had an 05 Subaru wagon, very reliable, great in the winter and got around 30mpg. She traded that for a Ford Fiesta and would get mid 40-48mpg (once we got 52mpg on a long highway ride). But that car sucked and was in the shop 3 times (less than 6 months of ownership of a brand new 2011 model with 12 original factory miles on it) and was a complete NO-GO in the snow, SO she traded it back for a 2012 Subaru Legacy and gets 30+ mpg mixed, the Impreza is cheaper, smaller, just as reliable and currently gets the highest mpg for an AWD vehicle at 36mph (if i remember correctly) and Subarus are well equipped and not terribly expensive.
So yeah, daily driving the jeep on 31s isn't great-i did that for 4 years, but it wasn't bad enough- and still isnt bad enough to make me want to get a new car. Now, if I had a commute like yours with my current 4.56 gears and 33s, and I wasnt doing my diesel swap...i think i would start strongly considering it, but my mpg are lower than yours. Like i said, if it comes to getting a 2nd car, VW with a 1.9TDI will return great numbers and Subarus as well if you need the AWD (but you have the jeep for that, right?).
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Agree on the VW Passat and the TDI. But running real close is Chevy Cruz or Malibu in the ECO model. Need to go down and compare then and see which I really Like.
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Some great replies, thanks alot!
Jeffy: Wow ok... Good point, well researched... and thanks for talking me out of it. No sense in two people trying to defy physics or make chickens lay square eggs. Truthfully, this is the real answer to the question.
Grumpygy, what kind of pickup do you have?
Stan, I think the same way, mostly because for the last 4 years I've had the Jeep, I have been pretty broke. Now that I will have extra income, I don't want to sponge up into another vehicle right away... The fuel economy was not bad enough to truly push me towards something else... Its "ok enough" and the Jeep is "all-purpose enough" to do everything, so why change it? I bought a trailer, so it can haul rocks, hay, wood, scrap, garbage etc and have no need for a truck.
I really am not a diesel freak... They are always WAY more expensive to buy that gas vehicles, and are always more expensive to fix and maintain. For instance, before I got this job I'd been looking at a V10 Superduty Ford. I could get it for 5 grand cheaper than a comparable diesel truck, pull just about as much, still start up on cold morinings, etc. Diesel is a superior fuel for energy potential and I won't argue with that, but with my luck and the price of parts, I'd never see "black" on the balance sheet with a diesel vehicle, especially an older one I can afford...
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2000 GMC Sierra 1500 4X4 with the 5.3.
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Grumpy...Nice... I like those, and I like the 5.3. Lots of power, easy to work on.
I did a rough estimate based on $4 fuel and my 330 mile commute. I am going to figure the cost of liability insurance for a $2000 beater (approx what I can afford cash and approx the level at which a reasonably reliable vehicle can be purchased) and license to be $580 for a year. We will assume that the car and the Jeep cost the same to maintain. I HAVE to keep the Jeep, I need it for farm work/wood cutting/survival so I am not figuring for its license and insurance costs.
I've seen as low as 12 mpg in the winter, and as high as 17mpg highway in the summer so average mpg is 14.5 lets say 15mpg is what I get now.
330 miles per week fuel (at) $4 :digdeeper:
12mpg 27 haf 110 per week $5720 yr
13mpg 25 gal 100 per week $5200 yr
14mpg 23 haf $94 per week $4888 yr
15mpg 22 gal $88 per week $4576 yr
16mpg 21 gal $84 per week $4368 yr
17mpg 19 gal $76 per week $3952 yr
18mpg 18 gal $72 per week $3744 yr
19mpg 17 gal $68 per week $3536 yr
20mpg 16 haf $66 per week $3432 yr
22mpg 15 gal $60 per week $3120 yr
24mpg 14 gal $56 per week $2912 yr
26mpg 13 gal $52 per week $2704 yr
28mpg 12 gal $48 per week $2496 yr
30mpg 11 gal $44 per week $2288 yr
35mpg 9 haf $38 per week $1976 yr
40mpg 8 qtr $33 per week $1716 yr
So if i get a sensible 30 mpg car, as opposed to my 15mpg jeep, the car's yearly fuel savings is $2288 minus $580 for license and insurance. The savings is STILL $1708 per year (or a weekly net savings of $32.85 per week) over driving the Jeep. But, if I have to purchase the car, it will take 61 weeks before that $2000 car pays for itself and begins to be profitable.
BUT the closer I get to 20 mpg with the Jeep... The less sense a second car makes. If the Jeep started getting 20mpg after "repairs," and the beater car still only did 30 mpg, a $2000 beater car would only save 1144 a year, minus license and insurance which is $564, or a savings of $10.84 a week. It would take 184 weeks to break even in that scenario.
So, given that analysis, it may still make sense to drive the Jeep, believe it or not, as I begin splitting maintenance pennies between two vehicles one is bound to get neglected (the poor stinkin Jeep), so its likely better to focus on one...
The better the Jeep can do fuel mileage wise of course, the better.
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Grumpy...Nice... I like those, and I like the 5.3. Lots of power, easy to work on.
I did a rough estimate based on $4 fuel and my 330 mile commute. I am going to figure the cost of liability insurance for a $2000 beater (approx what I can afford cash and approx the level at which a reasonably reliable vehicle can be purchased) and license to be $580 for a year. We will assume that the car and the Jeep cost the same to maintain. I HAVE to keep the Jeep, I need it for farm work/wood cutting/survival so I am not figuring for its license and insurance costs.
I've seen as low as 12 mpg in the winter, and as high as 17mpg highway in the summer so average mpg is 14.5 lets say 15mpg is what I get now.
330 miles per week fuel (at) $4 :digdeeper:
12mpg 27 haf 110 per week $5720 yr
13mpg 25 gal 100 per week $5200 yr
14mpg 23 haf $94 per week $4888 yr
15mpg 22 gal $88 per week $4576 yr
16mpg 21 gal $84 per week $4368 yr
17mpg 19 gal $76 per week $3952 yr
18mpg 18 gal $72 per week $3744 yr
19mpg 17 gal $68 per week $3536 yr
20mpg 16 haf $66 per week $3432 yr
22mpg 15 gal $60 per week $3120 yr
24mpg 14 gal $56 per week $2912 yr
26mpg 13 gal $52 per week $2704 yr
28mpg 12 gal $48 per week $2496 yr
30mpg 11 gal $44 per week $2288 yr
35mpg 9 haf $38 per week $1976 yr
40mpg 8 qtr $33 per week $1716 yr
So if i get a sensible 30 mpg car, as opposed to my 15mpg jeep, the car's yearly fuel savings is $2288 minus $580 for license and insurance. The savings is STILL $1708 per year (or a weekly net savings of $32.85 per week) over driving the Jeep. But, if I have to purchase the car, it will take 61 weeks before that $2000 car pays for itself and begins to be profitable.
BUT the closer I get to 20 mpg with the Jeep... The less sense a second car makes. If the Jeep started getting 20mpg after "repairs," and the beater car still only did 30 mpg, a $2000 beater car would only save 1144 a year, minus license and insurance which is $564, or a savings of $10.84 a week. It would take 184 weeks to break even in that scenario.
So, given that analysis, it may still make sense to drive the Jeep, believe it or not, as I begin splitting maintenance pennies between two vehicles one is bound to get neglected (the poor stinkin Jeep), so its likely better to focus on one...
The better the Jeep can do fuel mileage wise of course, the better.
Jetta TDI. Exccellent reliability and over 50mpg. Or Ford Fiesta, crappy reliability (but it will be under warranty if new) and looks terrible...but you'll be getting +40mpg so who cares
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I did a rough estimate based on $4 fuel and my 330 mile commute.
All those calculations are valid if that's all you're going to drive (how much extra are you going to use it aside the commute itself?),
in that case makes more sense and is probably cheaper to take the Greyhound (if you don't need the car during the week)
I have a 10 mile commute each way which i drive daily (means about 400 miles/month), but i end up with 1000 miles/month average
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Stan... I can't afford a new CAR like that. If i did spend big money on a vehicle, it would have to be a 4x4 with a good towing capacity (at least 2-3000lbs) where I would trade in/replace the Heep. I looked at CRD Libertys which have a 5000lb tow rating, but they have a fairly high cost of ownership due to crappy designs in the trans and several emissions system issues. There are known fixes too but it kina scared me away. Looking again at them though because of the outrageous pricing on the TDI's. People with modded (EGR delete, Eco tune, Suncoast Torque converter) Libbys are claiming 30mpg highway.
Sharp, I don't do too much extra driving and there is no greyhound available. I am hoping that there is perhaps a carpool I can take advantage of perhaps.
Has anyone hooked a Scangauge to their Jeep? I think i have the wrong speedo gear, will that effect it?
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How about a motorcycle? 60-70mpg...
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How about a motorcycle? 60-70mpg...
Not many really get that good of Mileage. Maybe a Sportster does get closer to 55Mpg. My Heritage classic only about 40-45. Lots of the sport bikes get really lousy Mileage. My old 750 Katana only got 30-35 on a good day most times it was lower.
Here is a guide.
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/MotorcycleFuelEconomyGuide/2012-MPG.htm
You will notice the High Mileage bikes are in the 250 Range. That size of Bike you need to stay off the freeway and no long distance 50 -60 Miles and it will get very uncomfortable.
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Not many really get that good of Mileage. Maybe a Sportster does get closer to 55Mpg. My Heritage classic only about 40-45. Lots of the sport bikes get really lousy Mileage. My old 750 Katana only got 30-35 on a good day most times it was lower.
I had a Suzuki 1000 Yoshimura long time ago (pistons, rods, cams & springs, carbs and exhaust) and was getting about 25mpg :lol:
idle was about 1500rpm
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Not many really get that good of Mileage. Maybe a Sportster does get closer to 55Mpg. My Heritage classic only about 40-45. Lots of the sport bikes get really lousy Mileage. My old 750 Katana only got 30-35 on a good day most times it was lower.
Here is a guide.
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/MotorcycleFuelEconomyGuide/2012-MPG.htm
You will notice the High Mileage bikes are in the 250 Range. That size of Bike you need to stay off the freeway and no long distance 50 -60 Miles and it will get very uncomfortable.
Suzuki S40, SV650, Honda CBR250R, Kawasaki EX250, BMW F650GS, G650, F800GS, ect... A CBR250R or a EX250 will easily keep up and pass on the highways.
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Stan... I can't afford a new CAR like that. If i did spend big money on a vehicle, it would have to be a 4x4 with a good towing capacity (at least 2-3000lbs) where I would trade in/replace the Heep. I looked at CRD Libertys which have a 5000lb tow rating, but they have a fairly high cost of ownership due to crappy designs in the trans and several emissions system issues. There are known fixes too but it kina scared me away. Looking again at them though because of the outrageous pricing on the TDI's. People with modded (EGR delete, Eco tune, Suncoast Torque converter) Libbys are claiming 30mpg highway.
Sharp, I don't do too much extra driving and there is no greyhound available. I am hoping that there is perhaps a carpool I can take advantage of perhaps.
Has anyone hooked a Scangauge to their Jeep? I think i have the wrong speedo gear, will that effect it?
Im not talking new about the TDI. I've known a handful of folks with late 90s/early 2000 model TDI with a ton of miles on the clock, superb mpg and very few maintenance issues. AS for the Fiesta, I wasn't real serious in that suggestion, but it can be had for around 14k.
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I had a Suzuki 1000 Yoshimura long time ago (pistons, rods, cams & springs, carbs and exhaust) and was getting about 25mpg :lol:
idle was about 1500rpm
But what was your 0-60. My old 94 750 Katana was right around 3 sec. I too had the Yosh Pipe and had it re jetted(which I had to do myself cause the guy screwed it up) and changed my Gearing went with a Bigger rear sprocket. Lost some of my top end but gained big on Acceleration.
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But what was your 0-60. My old 94 750 Katana was right around 3 sec. I too had the Yosh Pipe and had it re jetted(which I had to do myself cause the guy screwed it up) and changed my Gearing went with a Bigger rear sprocket. Lost some of my top end but gained big on Acceleration.
it was way too fast (at least for me anyway), had to replace the tire with a soft one as it was constantly spinning the one it had on when i bought it (really scary).
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Maintenance on bike normally eats up any savings you get by mileage. Chains gears and tires.
Sure those little bikes can stay up, but they will beat you up. Also semi's on a lighter Bike can be scary. Running on the freeway also wears them out much faster.
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After re-figuring my math, it was determined that the 31" tires are 13.9% bigger than stock (using an english to metric tire size converter and then a tire size calculator to find the % difference). So if thats a safe number, I multiplied the number of miles I drove by .139, added the result to the amount of miles from the last fill up on the odometer, then divided by the number of gallons went in the tank. Had been using 8% before.
Long story short the teal bomber got 19.6 mpg on the last tank of gas!!! Thats pretty darn survivable for a wrangler...
I did find 2 CRD Jeeps, a Grand Cherokee and a Liberty, as well as a VW Golf TDI I really like, all within the price range where I can keep the Jeep.
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After re-figuring my math, it was determined that the 31" tires are 13.9% bigger than stock (using an english to metric tire size converter and then a tire size calculator to find the % difference). So if thats a safe number, I multiplied the number of miles I drove by .139, added the result to the amount of miles from the last fill up on the odometer, then divided by the number of gallons went in the tank. Had been using 8% before.
Long story short the teal bomber got 19.6 mpg on the last tank of gas!!! Thats pretty darn survivable for a wrangler...
I did find 2 CRD Jeeps, a Grand Cherokee and a Liberty, as well as a VW Golf TDI I really like, all within the price range where I can keep the Jeep.
i have doubts about those numbers to be honest (both the tire percentage and the mpg)
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I am not taking them as gospel either, but my old method of google mapping the miles out... address to address.... then diving the amount of resulting miles by the amount of gallons purchased to full... That is just tedious as ****. Theres got to be something where I can get an accurate MPG.
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I am not taking them as gospel either, but my old method of google mapping the miles out... address to address.... then diving the amount of resulting miles by the amount of gallons purchased to full... That is just tedious as ****. Theres got to be something where I can get an accurate MPG.
if you have a gps you can calculate that percentage better (using the speed comparison), 31 vs stock is about 10.5% difference but i don't know for sure. the other thing is the sample size for which you calculated the mpg, if you only drove 100 miles it is very likely to get an error when filling the tank, the slight difference in the Jeep leaning to one side or the other or front/back can give you like a 1/2 gallon error and your calculations go out the door especially if you drove a short distance. The other thing is driving on the hwy if you start at 1 point and go only one way and fillup at the destination it could be that's more downhill, or fav wind, got to go both ways. 19.6mpg would be a really amazing achievement. Best is to get that speed comparison percentage (borrow a gps if you don't have one) and average your mpg over a few tanks, (at least 10 to 15 gal for each fill-up and add them up) and would be as accurate as it can get.
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Thanks sharp! Thats a killer idea. I forget those things exist!
Looking like the actual difference is around 6-7%. My parents have an old GPS they don't use anymore and I snagged that up. When I'm going 50mph the GPS it says 53. When going 45 dash GPS says 47-48. Which would make the original fuel fill up around a more realistic 17.5-18 mpg based on that guesstimate.
Will have to wait until my next fill up this thursday/friday, and then I can track actual miles via the GPS.
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Thanks sharp! Thats a killer idea. I forget those things exist!
Looking like the actual difference is around 6-7%. My parents have an old GPS they don't use anymore and I snagged that up. When I'm going 50mph the GPS it says 53. When going 45 dash GPS says 47-48. Which would make the original fuel fill up around a more realistic 17.5-18 mpg based on that guesstimate.
Will have to wait until my next fill up this thursday/friday, and then I can track actual miles via the GPS.
the GPS travelled miles are not always accurate (it will give you the distance between points if you lose the sattelite signal), that's why the best way to do it is by what you did with the speed and then use that percentage to add to your odometer, should be accurate enough,
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another thing you could do is use the mile markers on the hwy and compare to your odometer, if you have a trip of 50 miles that would be enough for a good estimation and probably the most accurate for your mileage reading. I've been tracking the mpg on my Camaro since last year in August, i've seen it as low as 18.7mpg and high at 24.6, in the end is the average that matters and it comes to 21.1mpg over almost 6900 miles and 326 gallons total - what's important is to accurately track the gas you put in at the pump, if it's 12.24 gallons don't use 12.2 or 12, and keep track of your miles reading for each fillup (i use the notes on my cellphone and write it in there every time i get gas).
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or you can use an old fashion vehicle log book they are all of $2.50 at office max and make it easy to look up gas millage trends and keep track of when oil changes are due.
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If you go by how many miles the GPS registers versus how many miles the odo registers, its about 9.8% differnence. This last tank yielded 17.2 mpg, 40% city, 60% highway. I was admittedly harder on it this week than i was last.
My whole perogative here is to know how truly bad or good it is, because I need to make a decision whether it will be better pinching pennies and driving this, or getting something else. Thats what it all boils down to.
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I got 17.2 last week sometime then the tank after that I got 15.9 with the top down all week. THAT was nice. I've had the Jeep for 4 years and had the top down once before that. Its coming off again... SOON!
I doubt this is a cliffhanger for anybody, but I decided to keep the Jeep and I ordered a Misch's Big Boy seat bracket, found a passenger side seatbelt at the J-yard for $30. Waiting on my first paycheck before I get any more parts.
For a long time I was looking for a replacement for Redline MTL for the AX-5 because nobody carried it locally but many people carried AMSoil. I finally found that AMSoil sells an MTG, which is an equivalent fluid. However, nobody carries the MTG specifically. So I wasted my time and will have to order the AMSoil just the same.
A still unanswered question...
Anybody have a ScanGauge in their 1997ish TJ?
Still torn on this...
Anyone with any more experiences/input on how going "back to stock tire size" has effected fuel economy/power/driveabilty?
Stage 1... This weekend!
Fix pass side seat belt
Install Big Boy Bracket
Flush P.S. Pump
Fix Leaky rear diff and put in fresh fluid
Change front diff fluid
Stage 1.5
Synthetic AMSoil MTG
Stage 2...
All new front brakes... MAYBE Black Magic brakes
New Unit bearings
Fix exhaust leak
Do an alignment
Stage 3 This summer
Find teal rust free fender and non- bent grille.
Clean and paint frame/underbody/axles
Penetrol the fenders/bumper ends/side steps
Install more than just 2 speakers...
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don't spend the money on fancy rotors, pay more for pads rather (they make a lot more difference than the rotors). Bendix TitanuMetallic II for me worked better than anything i tried before. I got refurbed Raybestos calipers and some generic rotors.
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Sharp, thanks for the advice on the brakes. I'll be ordering them this weekend.
18mpg this last tank. Pretty happy with that.
Got the Misch's seat brackets in, pass seat belt in, ordered the AMSoil. The rear diff leaks but i can't tell if its the old plug thats leaking, or not enough RTV thats making it leak. There is still plenty of fluid in there and it never needs any but the fact that its leaking period is freaking me out.
The Big Boy bracket is in.... I have plenty of room now and driving is now a much more comfortable affair. The only negative is trying to see stoplights when I'm "first in line", because my line of sight is on the top of the window. The bracket made it harder to see stoplights than before. However I am dialing in a route that only has 3 stoplights instead of 20. I'm going to write a review in the nuts and bolts section.
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Continual money problems have kept me from affording brakes. The ominous noises the brakes were making quit though, so I'm not as worried about it. The exhaust fell off, but continues to hang on, banging around in the undercairrage. The CEL keeps flashing on and off, its never on when I am near an auto parts store, as if its mocking me. The rusty body mount is now hanging in midair, the rust that made it look like it was attached to the tub got pulverized off of it. There are several totally asinine squeaks in the cab that have me trying to hold panels in the cab while driving to see where they are. The pinions seals now both leak significantly. One U-joint is on its way out, its weeping grease.
I had a 1988 CRX for two weeks, I had put a headgasket in it 3months ago... Well, it re-blew up with me driving the car, not the person I did the job for. Which is a relief and a slap in the face at the same time. 30 mpg was VERY nice while I had it....
Changed the trans fluid to Amsoil MTG. Huge improvement over what was in there. Honestly... The fluid that was in there was in good shape and I wouldn't have changed it. Shifts easier and better. Whole jeep seems to roll easier, doesn't lose as much momentum on hills. Its an incremental improvement. It cost around $90 for the fluid which hurt but so far, its worth it.
The Jeep still chugs on... Leaves a little trail of blood, but chugs on... Hopefully this weeks paycheck will get it fixed...
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Babied the hell out of it for a tank to see if I could pull 20 out of it. Got 14.9. Got mad.
Said **** it and bought a Subaru.
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Babied the hell out of it for a tank to see if I could pull 20 out of it. Got 14.9. Got mad.
Said **** it and bought a Subaru.
If you have 31's and were babying it, I bet you were lugging the engine all the time which isn't good. When under power, the key is to keep the engine running in it's optimal powerband without letting it drop too low or too high. If you have gravity on your side then you can keep the RPM's down without worrying about lugging the engine.
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Im with jeffy, with 31's I was geting 17mpg regularly with my yj and I was driving fairly normaly (not flooring it all the time but getting up to speed fairly quickly and keeping 65-70 on the highway with about 30 % city 70% highway. That is with a tbi 2.5l which your mpfi should beable to beat in mpg if everything is running correctly.
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Not sure what it was. I didn't lug it, (been on here long enough to know that) just took it easy 60mph instead of 70 on the highway, 55 flat on the country 2 lanes instead of 60-62 with traffic. I thought, hey, this tame driving is going to stretch this tank out. Wrong.
I was using the jeep for something its not designed for, so its for the better.
I still have the Jeep, for now it will just be a wood hauler. There will be no more whining about MPG's. :)