4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: tbirde7 on July 27, 2012, 08:00:51 PM
-
Hey everyone need some advice here, kinda stumped.
The Jeep was funning fine since the day I got it about a month ago.
Today is the exception.
Today I installed my new Pacesetter Header and since I had to remove the intake manifold I cleaned it up and decided to add
the 4.0 TB I got form a friend which I had already cleaned eariler.
I swapped the IAC assy, the TPS and the MAP sensor from the 2.5 TB.
Installed everything back on the jeep ran the new downpipe extension into the CAT and double checked all connections and
hoses twice.
Started Jeep in ran at a little high idle for a few minutes through a code and settled back down I let it run for about 5 mins.
I cut it off and cleared the code.
I started it back up and backed it off the the car ramps it ran for about 15 mins and just died.
It will crank but will not start, so i checked all connections under again and everything is good.
I poured some fuel down the throttle body and still nothing not even a attempt to start.
So at that point thinking electrical, so check all fuses behind glove box and they are good.
Checked fuses in PDC and #21 is blown 20a, replaced it and blew again when when I turned it over.
So replaced it again and this time I didn't turn it over just turned key to "on" poition and yep blew the fuse again.
Now under the PDC cap it doesn't tell me at all what this fuse does, nor does the owners manual.
So I'm at a lost on what to check next until I find out what this fuse controls.
Any help would be appreciated as I am suppose to get the rest of the exhaust replaced in the morning.
Thanks
Mike
-
Please forgive the spelling it's been a long day.
Thanks
Mike
-
comes from the ASD relay and provides 12v to your ...
EDIT: ignition coil among other things
it's the ASD Relay 12v output and powers the following
- ignition coil
- Oxygen Sensors
- fuel injectors
unplug one at a time and see what happens, i put my money on the O2 sensor in the header, maybe you burned the wiring or it got busted and it's grounded now, i would start with that, coil next and injectors last (unless you can think of a reason to start with these first).
-
You know I had a feeling the O2 sensor was going to be an issue as it was real close to the header, so until I could make an extension or buy one pre-fab, I used zip ties to keep it away from the header. Cool, I was getting up early in the morning anyhow and start back tracking so I will start with that first. Good to know about that fuse controlling those other items as well.
Thanks for the help
Mike
-
there's another o2 sensor past the cat, that would be the last one to think of but just in case
-
You might also check to make sure the new header is not touching the crank position sensor CPS wire. It could be burned.
-
so what's the word, did you fix it?
-
Good news the Jeep is ALIVE!!! Got up Saturday morning at 0530 and started with the header O2 sensor and worked backwards turned out to be part of the main engine harness had layed on top of the exhaust at the rear cylinder, burnt about 4 wires one of which is orange/striped ( have seen that color in other places ) so fixed all that and extended the O2 sensors wires also. Made my exhaust appointment just in time, got 2 1/2 just about all the way back and OMG that's got to be the baddest sounding 4 cylinder I have ever heard. Hard to believe how much more pep that little engines got now, sorry for late reply had to work. Appreciate the help once again.
Thanks
Mike
-
cool.
-
Update on the exhaust it sounds great had small high idle problem, retightening of header/intake bolts fixed that.
Electric fan project will be next, like the Taurus setup will search the forum for best wiring setups with AC or on Internet for pre-fab kits.
Mike
-
Lincoln MkVIII is another good choice, i run one and so does Jeffy. Mine is a single speed with a ballast resistor for low speed, Jeffy's is 2 speed (which is the better one but either works about the same). I have an adjustable controller for low speed and a regular thermocouple for high speed(more as a fail safe as it never gets that hot, low speed is plenty with this fan).
40Amp relay for low and 50 amp for high speed (this is important, lower will fail).
-
Sharp the type of wiring setup is exactly what I will want, plus will need to tie the AC into it. I have done a few searches and found some heavy duty switch threads and some straight wiring fan runs all the time, that just not going to work for me. On my old F-100 I was able to find a thermostat housing that a spot for a temperature sensor and wired it up using a factory wiring setup from a Chevrolet citation. Was gonna look for something similar for the jeep, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
Also, got a CEL tonight coming to work TPS High circuit code, it's gonna be my luck that it's from that harness that laid on the header pipe.
Nice
-
Lincoln MkVIII is another good choice, i run one and so does Jeffy. Mine is a single speed with a ballast resistor for low speed, Jeffy's is 2 speed (which is the better one but either works about the same). I have an adjustable controller for low speed and a regular thermocouple for high speed(more as a fail safe as it never gets that hot, low speed is plenty with this fan).
40Amp relay for low and 50 amp for high speed (this is important, lower will fail).
Do you need to worry about having both the high and low on at the same time? I'm asking since I might need to run my HS for the AC and might consider a second trigger from the AC compressor. With AC on a really hot day, I was told that LS might be too weak for really cold AC.
-
Do you need to worry about having both the high and low on at the same time? I'm asking since I might need to run my HS for the AC and might consider a second trigger from the AC compressor. With AC on a really hot day, I was told that LS might be too weak for really cold AC.
in my case not (with the ballast resistor), not sure on yours
-
Sharp the type of wiring setup is exactly what I will want, plus will need to tie the AC into it. I have done a few searches and found some heavy duty switch threads and some straight wiring fan runs all the time, that just not going to work for me. On my old F-100 I was able to find a thermostat housing that a spot for a temperature sensor and wired it up using a factory wiring setup from a Chevrolet citation. Was gonna look for something similar for the jeep, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
Also, got a CEL tonight coming to work TPS High circuit code, it's gonna be my luck that it's from that harness that laid on the header pipe.
Nice
get the thru fins probe controller, i had the part number of my controller listed in my writeup for the e-fan, there is one just like it with a thru-fins sensor (mine is thread in) - that one works for the low speed just fine with the relay that is on it (just looked and it is Hayden 3651 for the thread in probe, Hayden 3647 for the thru fins version $30 at Amazon)
there is also a 2 speed one Hayden 3654, this one is $45 but the high speed relay i believe would need upgrading, i didn't use this one and i don't have any info on it, seems to be the same concept as 3651/3647 but for the high speed you'd probably have to have a remote relay with thicker wires and 50Amp rating relay.
-
I have the Flex-A-lite which for all I know is probably made by Hayden or at least the same place. The thru-the-radiator probe works fine. Just make sure to wire it on the switch side of the relay and not the power side. I'd just get a Tyco 75 amp relay and be done with it.
I've heard some people using a Volvo 2-speed relay setup. Kinda pricey though.
-
This is the one I used and only use the low speed side. That has been plenty.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flex-A-Lite-31165-Electric-Fan-Variable-Speed-Control-Module-w-Temperature-Prob-/221088336694?hash=item3379e44b36&item=221088336694&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
-
Found this tonight while working. Check it out
Also my apologies for taking thread off topic.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/ford-taurus-wiring-solution-cheap-1325896/
Very interesting
Mike
-
that is not a controller but a double relay, you can do the same with 2 single relays and can get 50 amp ones for $8 each brand new and brand name (even cheaper if you don't go for Bosch or similar, so i can't see how this would be cheaper than that other than having the integrated connectors). Problem is that you can't control the ON temperature, where the actual efficiency lies - it's the probe that gives that threshold where you run the fan when you shouldn't or just right so it doesn't turn on when the vehicle is moving, otherwise you fight the thermostat by closing and opening it unneccessarily.
-
Yea that's true, I haven't read the whole thread yet (IPhone) but from what I did read the issue is finding the right sending unit switch with the right temperature. That would be cool though to get everything from one car.
Mike
-
the sending unit for that relay is a 2 stage, 3 terminal thread-in probe with a 22mm thread (aprox 7/8''). I also don't think the amperage is appropriate either as he mentioned something like 30Amps. The other thing is that if you need to replace that relay block a new one will cost you $100+
-
Yea LoL, that would be a bit pricey, it someone did do it they better get a spare.
Mike
-
Well thought my problems were over but between working and having granddaughter down the jeep finally threw a code for the TPS after weeks of idling high off and on. Replaced sensor and so far so good.
Mike