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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Mozman68 on September 09, 2012, 04:49:55 PM
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Hex is now rounded out... :'(
I'm guessing my only options are:
1) weld a bolt on to remove...and I don't have a welder...or a bolt.. :thumb:
2). Drill out the center very carefully so I can at least fill it and use a rubber plug temporarily until I can remove the whole thing.
I think it had a slow leak and I was going to make sure it had fluid in it...at least enough to drive for another week until I could drop it off while I'm out of town.
Thoughts?
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Cut a notch in the side and tap it around? You could drill two holes stick bolts in them then wedge a screwdriver in there or something else and try to turn it...
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Hmmmm....may try that. have a tap I used when I added my rear lights. I think I even have a couple of extra bolts.
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i think you might be able to fill it if you take out the speed sensor, i can't remember exactly but i'm pretty sure it's not on the underside, if it's lateral it might work, only problem is you don't know what the level is.
Jeffy's suggestion with the notch is probably best, just a tiny bit and then use a punch to move it, i took off many rounded bolts like that (usually just use a chisel to put a dent in it and then with a punch just tap it)
i wouldn't drill, no matter how much you try there will still be shavings going inside.
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Try one of these stubby fat easy outs. should do the trick, then use a regular pipe plug to replace the current fill plug. Pretty sure it's 3/8 pipe thread
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Stubby fat easy out? Where do I get one of those? Can't fit screws in there...not sure where I would put them...not enough room on the "rim" of the plug.
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So...the easy out would drill into the recessed hex area?
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Yup you pound it in there and then spin the thing out.
Your local Sears store should carry those
These are the ones I am talking about, seems like Lowe's carries them too
http://www.lowes.com/pd_62982-281-53227_0__?productId=3732989&Ntt=Easy+out+screw+extractor&pl=1¤tURL=&facetInfo=
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Damn..that's a nice set. Checking my local Lowes online now. Thanks!
Edit: damn...not available at any Lowes within 45 miles of me. :(
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Have you tried tapping in the next larger size hex socket? Or tap in a torx bit that is larger than the hole. Tap in as far as possible and turn very slowly.
I've got extra rear case halves and plugs if you booger up the parts.
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Once you get it out replace it with a nut like on the YJ's. Doesn't require much torque to be tight.
(http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/771000-771999/771402_129_full.jpg)
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Look at Oreilly's Auto Parts Look for Irwin Extractors.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/IRW0/53226/N0673.oap?ck=Search_extractor_N0673_-1_-1&keyword=extractor&pt=N0673&ppt=C0099
Just a note this set may not be big enough but they do have them that will work just need to make sure.
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Problem is some steel plugs can get extremely tight in aluminum cases.
Road salt country doesn't help that gig either.
I have had to drill some of those buggers out once the threads start galling it's darn near impossible to screw that plug out.
If you stripped it because it was extremely tight, you just might be in for some extended fun
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I think I'll stop by O'Reillys on the way home....which is right by Harbor Freight...which is on the way to Sears....someone will have what I need....and if not, I do have huge torx bits in the drawer.
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so the plug is not sticking out far enought to be able to try and tap on the edge so it unscrews?
something like this if i can somehow explain properly
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^ hammer with a punch here
this works if you can, doesn't take much just a few taps to get it moving.
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yeah...maybe 1/16" at most proud of the case. Would have loved to be able to clamp the outside and turn.
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yeah...maybe 1/16" at most proud of the case. Would have loved to be able to clamp the outside and turn.
you can still try, make a small notch enough so that you can try and move it some, it's worth a shot imo
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Here's something else to try:
1. Using a hammer with a flat face, tap the hex plug firmly to push material back into the hole.
2. Make sure the hole is cleaned out all the way to the bottom (no mud, crud, etc.).
3. Drive a hex bit socket into the hole until it bottoms out.
4. Turn evenly and slowly - a "T" handle wrench works well for this.
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Don't be afraid to notch the plug with an angle grinder, enough to drive it out with a chisel. Heat from an LP bottle may help as well.
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Oh, let's not forget the PB Blaster...
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Using a punch is very effective. With a pointed punch you can hammer it in a bit, then turn it a little sideways and hit it with a hammer to get the plug to turn.
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I should also mention I'm trying to do all of this without removing the ungodly heavy Full Traction skid plate.
The easy out may be my best choice for this reason alone.
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Yell at it... till it falls out...
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Picked up a 3/8" breaker bar at Harbor Freight...just cause I didn't have one....as well as a extractor kit.
Then ran by O'Reilly's anyway and picked up a #7 extractor just in case I needed a bigger one.
Then the Jeep dealership was right up the road from there....picked up two filler plugs (just in case)..$5 for both!
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Did you get the old style or the new one?
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The same, new, recessed 10mm hex one...I'll just make sure not to over tighten this time.....
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The same, new, recessed 10mm hex one...I'll just make sure not to over tighten this time.....
You could add some anti-sieze to it as well. The plug doesn't need to be that tight though. just enough not to leak. I never check the torque on mine since I'm using a large adj, jaw wrench.
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Looks like they have anti seize on them already...still drinking beer...will head out in a bit to get the old one off.
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Well, you don't want to chance spilling that now...
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I like to have at least two beers in me before I start drilling into major drive components of my Jeep...
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Bounty Hunter FTW.
T55 torx bit and my new breaker bar did it...had to after I realized I didn't have the correct drill conversion piece to attach the #7 extracter bit.
Big squeak and it loosened right up...fluid level was fine...put a few pumps in to make sure it is full. Must be a very slow leak. Or I wonder if it is just a breather tube somewhere?
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Looks like they have anti seize on them already...still drinking beer...will head out in a bit to get the old one off.
it's probably dry sealant paste, i doubt they use anti-seize on them.
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I like to have at least two beers in me before I start drilling into major drive components of my Jeep...
It seems to be in the FSM somewhere - its my modus operandi :beers:
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I like to have at least two beers in me before I start drilling into major drive components of my Jeep...
Quote of the day! :thumb:
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please get rid of the damn recessed hex! worse thing known to man...
plug is a 22x1.5 metric. lots of options to go with for the fill and drain...
here is a thread i started on jeepforum:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/magnetic-transfer-case-drain-plug-np231-upgrade-1415119/
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link=topic=10757.msg95794#msg95794 date=1347321567]
I like to have at least two beers in me before I start drilling into major drive components of my Jeep...
[/quote]
It calms the nerves! :beer: :beer: