4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: aka-justin on September 26, 2012, 12:51:53 AM
-
I don't know what this is. Iginition / Fuel / or Valvetrain? It's been doing this and getting worse. Seems to be non-existant after warming up, but almost always when it's cold. My feeling is a non-pumped up lifter. I've changed the oil recently too. The strangest thing is how it suddenly goes away then creeps back.
http://www.youtube.com/v/YxZdwrphad0?version=3&hl=en_US
-
i hear 2 distinct noises there, 1 i believe it is a lifter (higher pitch) unless it's one of the exhaust manifold runners either a bolt or a crack and that would explain the low pitch noise as well (you can hear both high/low in that case as when different cylinders are in the exhaust cycle).
-
I do have a small exhaust leak at the cat. Would a compression test confirm the lifter?
-
I do have a small exhaust leak at the cat. Would a compression test confirm the lifter?
i don't think so, the valve would still open and close
-
Ok, thank you. This will be my next immediate project.
-
The puffing noise sounds like an exhaust leak at the manifold maybe. The tap could be lifters but I'd say that's normal.
-
The puffing noise sounds like an exhaust leak at the manifold maybe. The tap could be lifters but I'd say that's normal.
I didn't answer cause I was thinking nthats the way mine sounds and its running good.
-
Normal for the 2.5 but maybe not for the 4.0. I used to have a 4.0 in a '96 Grand Cherokee and it did not sound like the 2.5.
-
Back when I had the stock exhaust manifold ,, mine got a nasty metalic noise,
When I put the header on I found a 1/2 inch hole on the back side of the
manifold just above the collector... It had cracked and a piece fell out..
Dave
-
Tomorrow is D-Day. New lifters arrived yesterday alongside of head gasket, assembly lube, and break in oil additive. I also picked up oil, filter, coolant, head bolts, and spark plugs. I scored a new valve cover gasket and lightly used ignition coil pack for $75 too (busted a pin last spark plug change and shoved it back in, so been meaning to replace it.)
I'm going deep into the unknown so I'll post an update as I progress. Kinda of throwing everything at this - I hate hearing the noise at only 66k. We'll see how bad... I mean... good I do... :puzzled:
UPDATE: I RTFM and saw I should have picked up a intake/exhaust gasket. I'll have the wifey do that later in the day.
-
Use a shop vac to suck the water out of the cooling jacket before
you pop the head loose and after to get it out around the sides of
the block. Use a shop vac constantly while cleaning the top of the block.
I put assembly lube on the cylinder walls and a bead around the tops
of the pistons to keep stuff from getting down there while you clean
the top of the block.
Spray gasket remove (Nasty stuff) is good for cleaning the top of the block.
I always take the head to a shop and have it boiled out and I put new valve
seals in and new springs. (Springs are cheap and they lose a bunch of their
"spring" after 50K miles.)
Chase the head bolt holes with a tap before install.
If the head has many miles at all, a good 3 cut valve job is a good investment.
Dave
-
I always take the head to a shop and have it boiled out and I put new valve
seals in and new springs. (Springs are cheap and they lose a bunch of their
"spring" after 50K miles.)
At 66k miles? I'm a little heasitant. If it was 100k+ I'd be game. How much has it run you to get it done?
-
you're not taking the head off just to replace the lifters? :yikes: a $5 magnetic pickup will do the trick just fine and save you about 4 hours of work. I can only hope you're reading this before starting the work in case that's the only reason you plan to do it.
-
you're not taking the head off just to replace the lifters? :yikes: a $5 magnetic pickup will do the trick just fine and save you about 4 hours of work. I can only hope you're reading this before starting the work in case that's the only reason you plan to do it.
4.0L supposidly have to take the head off. Look at this 2001 head - the castings are too small to pull the lifters out. I've also read through the FSM.
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4047/4522680012_75b46fd781_z.jpg)
(http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZxI6OUrtCoQ/UGaOWtN8JjI/AAAAAAAAFBg/MG1ZU9P7hLo/s576/2012-09-28_Jeep_03_FSM_Remove_Lifters.jpg)
-
4.0L supposidly have to take the head off. Look at this 2001 head - the castings are too small to pull the lifters out. I've also read throught the FSM.
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4047/4522680012_75b46fd781_z.jpg)
god, looks like you're right - that's completely retarded. I guess you don't have a choice. The head does look different than the older ones, they are machining the valve cover gasket seat on it which was just raw casting before. downside are the smaller pushrod holes, darn
-
Never done this before... but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night, so I wiped think I'm good.
-
Made some progress before it hit 97 degrees and beer 30...
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_o1x4GwE89A/UGeyb1sBvPI/AAAAAAAAFB0/agys0eURN60/s800/2012-09-29_08-27-38_353.jpg)
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-busyNDBws3s/UGeycHfLWiI/AAAAAAAAFB8/ttQOKb6E7KY/s800/2012-09-29_12-35-55_197.jpg)
(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yqL25UBo8nc/UGeycu444KI/AAAAAAAAFCE/lyzAduuIkzI/s800/2012-09-29_12-36-06_277.jpg)
-
I had the valve cover off, removed the rockers and push roads, and broke free a few of the head bolts before I quit. Everything is sorted with some card board I turned into bolt holders.
-
i can't remember so i'll ask - did you get new pushrods? if you didn't they're like $2 a piece so might as well do it.
-
Nope, I didn't get new ones. They all look ok, wiped them down and blew them out with air. I'll see whats local before I button it up.
-
Nope, I didn't get new ones. They all look ok, wiped them down and blew them out with air. I'll see whats local before I button it up.
that is a must, you should get new ones (they're dirt cheap anyway).
-
I forgot to mention that my nose picked a fight with an exhaust manifold flange bolt. I didn't realize it did anything other than hurt till later.
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-PdBU71Y3xKA/UGfdOEikOzI/AAAAAAAAFCU/sWmCiKNO3NE/s320/2012-09-29_22-44-26_109.jpg)
-
At 66k miles? I'm a little heasitant. If it was 100k+ I'd be game. How much has it run you to get it done?
Most valve springs are down 1/3 of their rate by their 5th birthday running them or not. (Biggest weakness in buying a crate motor, a few of those springs have been fully compressed since the motor was built...)
By comparison, the sprint car I take care of the springs are replaced each season, that's like 12 hours of runtime... BUt at 9000 LOL
If you take the head apart yourself, and take the bare head to a shop a boil out is like 20 to 40 bucks.
Valve springs are a few bucks, set about 140.. Your stock ones can be bench tested at a machine shop for probably 20 bucks... Or if you have a high school with a auto shop I've hit the teacher up to have a student test them for me and made a "donation" to teh shop fund... ;)
Valve seal kit about 20 bucks.
If I pull a head I have a shop check it for straightness and maybe have them hone it .005 just to open the surface up for being re-seated on the engine. Not a big deal... if you don't have that done, make sure the new metal is lightly sanded to open the pores of the casting back up for the sealant on the new head gasket.
CHeers
Dave
-
Most valve springs are down 1/3 of their rate by their 5th birthday running them or not. (Biggest weakness in buying a crate motor, a few of those springs have been fully compressed since the motor was built...)
By comparison, the sprint car I take care of the springs are replaced each season, that's like 12 hours of runtime... BUt at 9000 LOL
If you take the head apart yourself, and take the bare head to a shop a boil out is like 20 to 40 bucks.
Valve springs are a few bucks, set about 140.. Your stock ones can be bench tested at a machine shop for probably 20 bucks... Or if you have a high school with a auto shop I've hit the teacher up to have a student test them for me and made a "donation" to teh shop fund... ;)
Valve seal kit about 20 bucks.
If I pull a head I have a shop check it for straightness and maybe have them hone it .005 just to open the surface up for being re-seated on the engine. Not a big deal... if you don't have that done, make sure the new metal is lightly sanded to open the pores of the casting back up for the sealant on the new head gasket.
CHeers
Dave
Thanks for the info sir. Its just a daily driver and I rarely hit over 3k rpm in my travels to work - I top out around 60 mph. I work at a college that has a full autoshop and I'd like to rebuild the entire motor later in it's life, but, for now, I just want to attack these lifters. I agree with you on the spring rate and I'm sure it could use the vavles being turned, but I'm not racing and it has a lot of power right now which I'm happy with until it wears down more. I think I'd be a bit premature to go so deep into the valve train.
I did notice, after pulling all the stuff off the block, the front of my cyclinder head is leaking oil down the front. I was hoping it wasn't my rear main seal, but now I can see a trail of oil down the front of the block, to the timing cover, and along the pan. I'll watch for the oil collecting around the exterior of the pan afterward.
-
that is a must, you should get new ones (they're dirt cheap anyway).
So, I talked with my father in law, a retired mechanic, and he wanted to look over the push rods and rockers. He inspected the push rods and said to rotate them and the ends look ok - along with 20 million things to do, not do, look for, clean, blow out, .......... he said it probably would still make the noise... hahaha
-
they break in with the lifter, it will work without replacing them but that's the recommendation. if you don't replace them you should at least keep the rockers in the same spot and the pushrod ends in the same spot (on the same cylinder and the end that went in the rocker placed the same way).
-
they break in with the lifter, it will work without replacing them but that's the recommendation. if you don't replace them you should at least keep the rockers in the same spot and the pushrod ends in the same spot (on the same cylinder and the end that went in the rocker placed the same way).
I put everything in order into cardboard. Got it. Almost done. Had to come back in to get the rocker arm ft. lbs.
-
She's alive and no more TAK TAK TAK TAK TAK TAK.... but I did manage to toast the TPS sensor when I went crazy at the car wash with degreaser. So, one last sensor and it'll be purring like a kitty. ;)
http://www.youtube.com/v/viZxBt3wY0M?version=3&hl=en_US
Pics of earlier that day once I pulled the head initally off. A lot of carbon. I got all that I could off but the top of the pistons had a lot - I even soaked them with carb cleaner. Scraped the top and head too. Would have been smart to have the head boiled - but I'm too dumb. :whistle:
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a1F8pFw8ypY/UGkb6M5tBII/AAAAAAAAFC0/8AxToEWgn8c/s800/2012-09-30_10-14-42_411.jpg)
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QGKvRSc-oDY/UGkb5LXV8hI/AAAAAAAAFCk/rUJdHedlHi8/s800/2012-09-30_09-34-45_427.jpg)
-
Probably need to take it on a road trip and get the engine nice and hot to clean the carbon out.
-
Good work!
-
Replaced the TPS. It's been running cooler - takes longer to get up to temp. Drives easier - felt jumpy before with power and it is more relaxed but goes if you put your foot into it. I thought it was all normal prior. It's responding more like my old YJ used to - add two more cyclinders. :biggrin:
http://www.youtube.com/v/GNGmV5imcYA?version=3&hl=en_US
-
It sounds healthy.