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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: bestos on October 10, 2012, 03:04:53 PM
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i have OME suspension i plan to put on this weekend. i tried to start the Tcase drop kit today. not a single of the 6 bolts will even budge, what do i do? i used my ingersol impact on removal setting 3. any ideas? i pulled the breaker bar out, put a 2 foot pipe handle over it, all i did was rock the jeep. what can i do? there is no way to get pb blaster to break the laws of gravity...
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are there any openings in the frame that you can shoot penetrating fluid to those bolts - those nuts in the frame will break if you're not careful, good luck with them.
if you can heat them up and then cool down that would help but should still try to spray some lubricant on them
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You could also try tightening them a bit first. The goal is to get them moving just a bit. Getting some penetrating oil on them will be the key. Heat can also help break them loose.
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You might try heating them up a little and see if that helps breaking them loose. You can try to soak them with penetrating oil as well. The head of the bolt is usually want locks the bolt in place not the threads. Well, unless there's a lot of rust in there. Just be careful not to rip the captured nut out.
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is my butane torch sufficient enough source of heat? never used heat.
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i'd would think oxyacetilene but butane might work too, would be hard to get them really hot though. make sure you cool them before breaking them loose, otherwise you'll end up twisting the bolt.
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is my butane torch sufficient enough source of heat? never used heat.
I've used butane, it seems to be enough.
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Hammer and Brass drift Smack the head of the Bolt. Works sometimes.
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You could try spraying PB Blaster into the holes in the frame and let it flow to the captured nuts (Mopar calls them nutserts). Put in plenty of PB and let it soak for a day or so. I had a similar problem on my TJ - the bolts started out and then the nutserts broke. Ended up going through several sawall blades and added a few new nutserts (welded in now). You can weld three regular nuts onto a strip of metal to replace the nutserts if you don't want to support the Chrysler employee pension plan.
When you put it all back together, put some anti-seize lube on the bolts.
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how long after heat up? few hours? how hot do i get them? any way to tell?
what is a hammer and brass drift?
ps, i tried to take my front trac bar off tonight too, doesnt budge a damn inch, this suspension shit is pissing me off. in MD, i guess, rust is bad enough. i do not have any frame rot, but it seems these nuts and bolts are NOT being friendly.
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how long after heat up? few hours? how hot do i get them? any way to tell?
what is a hammer and brass drift?
ps, i tried to take my front trac bar off tonight too, doesnt budge a damn inch, this suspension shit is pissing me off. in MD, i guess, rust is bad enough. i do not have any frame rot, but it seems these nuts and bolts are NOT being friendly.
a minute or so then put a soaked wet rag on the head so it cools.
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how long after heat up? few hours? how hot do i get them? any way to tell?
what is a hammer and brass drift?
ps, i tried to take my front trac bar off tonight too, doesnt budge a damn inch, this suspension shit is pissing me off. in MD, i guess, rust is bad enough. i do not have any frame rot, but it seems these nuts and bolts are NOT being friendly.
For the track bars, loosen the nut, not the bolt.
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shattered 2 torqs drivers on my track-bar bolts a few days of pb blaster soaking and some creative visgrip us i got them off. rust is an uphill battle
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i tried to loosen nut on driver side of track bar - damn, 7/8 wrench + a 13/16 hooked in for more torque, nada, craftsman wrenches were flexing, will try heat on that one too, hey chard, did you have to remove the sway bar links in order to get a torq bit and impact/or ratchet in there?