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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: sharpxmen on August 11, 2013, 09:25:36 PM
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I had installed an eBay chinese made aftermarket P/S tank a while back, it looked good but didn't work that well. The return was way too high , so much in fact that you had to fill the tank almost to the top to cover the return otherwise the pump would start to make noise (i think was blending in air), as a result the level was too high and was leaking like crazy. So i looked around to get a better one, a good one from Jegs or Summit was around $90 and i would still had to modify it to make it work so i decided to make my own.
I bought the following:
- weld-in P/S cap (Moroso $28, most expensive one)
- weld-in -10 and -6 AN fittings ($8)
- 3'' x 3'' .188 wall aluminum sq tubing - one 6'' long piece
- 3'' wide .188 thick flat bar (2 of 3'' x 3'')
- 1'' wide x 1/2'' thick flat bar, one 4'' long piece
- short aluminum pipe for return so it comes at an angle just like the stock one
($13 for all the aluminum above)
- magnetic disc from the stock p/s tank (free)
here's the collection of pieces, you can see the old tank to the right
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/Drivetrain_Upgrades/Power%20Steering%20Reservoir/47_PS_tank_1_zpseed2518a.jpg)
I installed the magnetic disc above the return just like the stock
this is the result
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/Drivetrain_Upgrades/Power%20Steering%20Reservoir/47_PS_tank_2_zpsc2501ce7.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/Drivetrain_Upgrades/Power%20Steering%20Reservoir/47_PS_tank_3_zps8d2c3926.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/Drivetrain_Upgrades/Power%20Steering%20Reservoir/47_PS_tank_4_zpsc026fe18.jpg)
we'll see if this one leaks...
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You're just showing off your TIG skills.
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I had a hard time welding it actually, not sure why but could not get the arc to stop wandering, once i got the bead going was fine. got it done in the end but wasn't easy.
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You're just showing off your TIG skills.
I agree!
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Looks good. I don't like welding aluminum. I like the steel family better.
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i got some gas lens but i think i'm switching back to regular cups, it's either i'm not used to them or something's wrong with my torch, don't remember having such a hard time starting the bead before i switched to gas lens so next one i'll switch back and see how it goes.
steel is def easier and nicer to weld
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Looks great.
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Did you put both the return and suction line in the bottom of the tank? Wont get much fluid mixing that way or dwell time. Probably not that important for a ps reservoir but in most hydraulic circuits you want to make the fluid mix a bit. But definitely dont want the return above the fluid level which results in aeration issues like the china unit did. looks good though :thumb:
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Did you put both the return and suction line in the bottom of the tank? Wont get much fluid mixing that way or dwell time. Probably not that important for a ps reservoir but in most hydraulic circuits you want to make the fluid mix a bit. But definitely dont want the return above the fluid level which results in aeration issues like the china unit did. looks good though :thumb:
i made it exactly as the stock one is, the return is at a 45deg angle and has the magnetic disc in a plastic housing right above it. that way there's no air blended in which is what the problem was with the other one. The other thing is if you have it at a 90deg angle on the side i was concerned would create a twirl or vortex and maybe draw air in, so i figured if i go like stock should be safe bet. most of the p/s tanks have the return on the bottom or on the side but no higher than 1/2 way.
so far so good, no leaks and no noise from the power steering, even with the tank full on the old one was still making noise at times so that means was probably creating a vortex or somehow blending in air, this one solved that problem.
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quick update:
no leaks whatsoever :driving:
the fluid is not foamy anymore (with the other one even filled to the top was still looking milky like was blending in air).
an unexpected expense but worth it in the end (i hate wiping oil off all the hoses and stuff in the engine bay).
EDIT: it is filled about 2/3 so there's some air on top to compress when it heats up, there's no pressure release on that cap so i guess that's the downside but i unscrewed it when it was hot and was not that much pressure (did a quick puff and that was it) - i assume the o-ring will let some pressure out as it is going inside the bore and is not squeezed by the cap when you tighten it.
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I think That round housing is not for street power steering.. Its the type used on a dirt track sprint car, the small fitting on the side is the vent which gets routed low so if the car flips it does not lose fluid. There is a baffle inside to let it vent and to help keep splash down a bit. I've helped maintain a bunch of dirt cars and thats what the ones we used look like. You can also use them to vent as well as fill a rear end or transmission.
Cheers
Dave
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there's no baffle in that one, it sucks major ballz but it was only $15 or so - if i knew then what i know now i would have welded a return fitting on the bottom with a deflector on top of it so it won't shoot fluit up to the cap (and with it filled 1/2 way would have probably been ok).