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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Bigboi on January 15, 2015, 06:49:32 AM
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so ive rebuilt my engine Twice, and i keep having trouble with the intake/exhaust gasket, First it was the front most bolt that had an issue, now its the farthest bolt back on the bottom side which has dissapeared, all of my other bolts seem to be secure, but i have a terrible exhaust leak, and my idle is running around 1-1.5k, i believe the gasket is to blame, because with temperature difference the idle fluctuates, cant tackle a vacuum leak with a bad gasket..
What do you guys recommend for the bolts to the manifolds, i had meant to ask this on my 2nd rebuild, but it skipped over my head
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I couldn't tell you the size of it, but you can use Google for that.. I had a bolt that had been broke off that was nearest to the firewall. I had to remove the head to get to it. I just replaced it from a bolt from my bucket. If they keep backing out, use loctite on them.
For the record, I didn't brake the bolt, the dealer I bought the Jeep from failed to mention it..
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Make sure it didn't just snap off. Those two 'bolts' should actually be studs. They get the most stress and the heat cycles don't help. There is a Mopar replacement that came out much later as a replacement but I'm not sure if it's still available. Actually, I just did a quick search on Amazon and it's available but shipping is going to he expensive.
6036193-AA STUD NONE 9004007 $1.60 each - Stud
6036171-AA NUT&WA NO 18050022 $3.95 each - Nut & Washer
http://www.hesco.us/products/7539/fuel-and-intake/136602/6036193aa--4042-exhaust-manifold-stud
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181554480088
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131403762733
My advice if to source it locally or get it on ebay.
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i had 1 stud in my other head, this head has 0 studs, in the FSM it shows similar to what i pulled out, a bolt with like 4 washers on it, The Rearmost bolt that is
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Both of those are common to break on the 2.5. The dealer does still offer the parts. I know at least for the TJ's there was a TSB with updated part numbers. TSB 11-07-98 Rev A.
2 needed PN 06036193AA Exhaust manifold stud
2 needed PN 06036221AA Flat washer
2 needed PN 06036171AA Nut and washer
2 needed PN 33003332 Spacer
1 needed PN 53020112 Intake gasket
This bulletin involves replacing both outer mounting studs, clamps, and nuts **with new parts** and tightening the outer studs to a reduced torque of **20 Nm (180 in. lbs.)**.
Remove the intake/exhaust manifold per service manual procedures to gain access to the broken stud(s).
Remove the outer studs from the cylinder head. Use a stud removal tool if possible or drill the broken stud from the head.
Install two new outer studs p/n 06036193AA into the cylinder block. **Torque the studs to 14 Nm (126 in. lbs.)**.
Clean any carbon deposits or debris from the exhaust manifold.
Reinstall the exhaust manifold. **Use only the new parts listed above to attach the outer ends (Figure 2).**
Torque the bolts in the order and specification as listed in Figure 2.
**NOTE: THE TORQUE SPECIFICATION FOR THE OUTER EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUDS HAVE BEEN REDUCED TO 20 NM (180 IN. LBS.)**.
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from the FAQ's
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,86.0.html
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$32.00 for the studs, nuts washers, minus the gasket and spacer the spacer is no longer available from mopar
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The "spacer" was nothing more than a hard plastic insert that went over the stud and was pushed into the gap around the stud in the manifold by the nut and washer. I never really understood its purpose.
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The "spacer" was nothing more than a hard plastic insert that went over the stud and was pushed into the gap around the stud in the manifold by the nut and washer. I never really understood its purpose.
so i should use a few more washers
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I never seen no spacer on mine :yikes:
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im Finally gonna have a Go at this issue today.... $35 in TINY parts from the Stealership, $5.00 @ hardware store and a new intake gasket... i DO NOT Wanna deal with this EVER Again... its not that big of a deal, but when you Keep getting exhaust leaks and vacuum leaks from the intake ports (I find NO OTHER Explanation as to why my engine is idling at 1500rpms) i find No other obvious vacuum leaks Anywhere
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I never seen no spacer on mine :yikes:
(http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/20/97/c1/medium/0996b43f802097c1.gif)
Me either.
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I know about the spacers.. My old man worked for Mopar as a mechanic for 20 years, I replaced a head on a '92 4.0 I had, and got the new hardware and spacers from mopar. I asked my dad what they were for. he told me that they keep the exhaust in place on the stud. They are meant to melt.
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I have to do a exhaust on my '91 soon.. have a broken stud in the front and the manifold is cracked.. thinking of buying a header instead of a factory manifold
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I switched mine out to stainless steed studs and bolts, you need to check the thickness of the intake and exhaust flanges, if they are the same you use the full length manifold gasket that goes under both the intake and exhaust manifolds. if the intake is thinner you only use gaskets on the intake the exhaust manifold goes on without a gasket. (My 94 came stock this way.) My clifford header (NLA) requires the full length gasket.