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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: DanMarino on April 28, 2015, 11:25:02 AM
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Help! My 1994 YJ with the 4 angry squirrels is suddenly leaking lots of oil down near the oil filter. I have swapped on a brand new filter and it is still leaking lots of oil. It is very difficult to see what's going on down there. Very black and dark and oily. I cleaned a bunch of oil off last night and my son drove the Jeep to school today, and the Jeep is now covered again. Drips are coming off the oil filter, as well as the thing to the left of the oil filter.
In March I just had the Clutch replaced and while they did the clutch, they did the rear main seal. I'm hoping this isn't the rear main seal. The oil is even sprayed on the top side of the distributor cap and plug wires.
The drivers side of the engine is clean.
It does not appear to be coming from the valve cover.
Any suggestions? Here are some terrible photos.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c367/TBlackJr/P1030058_zps8ykqxdsh.jpg) (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/TBlackJr/media/P1030058_zps8ykqxdsh.jpg.html)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c367/TBlackJr/P1030064_zpsqyykleyg.jpg) (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/TBlackJr/media/P1030064_zpsqyykleyg.jpg.html)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c367/TBlackJr/P1030065_zpsgs83hk9x.jpg) (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/TBlackJr/media/P1030065_zpsgs83hk9x.jpg.html)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c367/TBlackJr/P1030066_zpsviezbh4k.jpg) (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/TBlackJr/media/P1030066_zpsviezbh4k.jpg.html)
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Seems strange if it was the rear seal since the bellhousing covers it. I'm gonna guess it's coming from the dip stick. Was the stick pushed down all the way?
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Thanks Jeffy, I checked the dipstick and it was seated. I also swapped a different oil filter on in case the old rubber gasket from a filter was stuck on the block. But there was no double gasket and the filter housing seemed fine.
Yes, it is strange. I guess it could be coming from the gasket at the base of the distributor, or else the oil pressure unit sensor is cracked and leaking.
I think I'll go ahead and swap in a new oil pressure sensor and distributor gasket since the originals are now 21 years old.
This winter I also put a new CCV plastic elbow in the valve cover and checked the hoses up there for blockages, but all seemed fine.
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It could be the oil filter as well. Was it replaced when the drained the block? Maybe it's loose or if it was replaced, maybe they left the old o-ring in so it's doubled up. I'm gonna guess it's not the oil sender since most of teh oil seems to be between the distributor and the coil. Is there any fresh oil under the dip stick cap?
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Update. I put in a new oil pressure sensor but the old one seemed fine and not leaky. More oil around the distributor. I started taking the distributor off but ran into a problem. I can't get the bolt off the plate that secures the distributor to the block. I can't get a wrench or socket on it. What's the trick and what size wrench?
Thanks!
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Update. I put in a new oil pressure sensor but the old one seemed fine and not leaky. More oil around the distributor. I started taking the distributor off but ran into a problem. I can't get the bolt off the plate that secures the distributor to the block. I can't get a wrench or socket on it. What's the trick and what size wrench?
Thanks!
you might be able to get it with an S wrench but a 75 to 90 deg bent wrench usually works, can't remember how I did mine but if I recall correctly I had a shorty that I was able to fit in there.
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Socket with a universal and extension?
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I purchased a 1/2 inch wrench with a bigger off-set and could barely get the distributor bolt off. Had to go slow. Lots of PBlaster. No fun, but got it done.
The old distributor gasket/seal was rock hard and baked onto the distributor. It was very hard to get it off, but I managed.
There was lots of oil there on the block at the distributor mounting point. So while the distributor was out I cleaned the block off with brake cleaner. Cleaned up as much as I could reach so that I can tell better if the leak returns. Pretty dry looking now down there.
Got it all back together and let the jeep idle for about 25 minutes in the garage. No leaks observed. Keeping my fingers crossed that it is resolved.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Tom
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Update. Looked at the Jeep again this morning. There is a drip coming off of the oil filter. Can see that it forms at the base of the oil filter and drips down and off the top of it.
Also some oil near the starter.
I'll swap on another filter I guess in case this one is bad.
Is there anything about the place where the filter is mounted to the block I should look at?
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the valve cover leaks on the back side (towards the firewall) sometimes, check if it's tight, mine was loose at some point and was getting the same thing (drops of oil a the end of the filter) - with the fan blowing it all over the place it's hard to pinpoint it sometimes
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Still seems dry around the oil pressure sensor and at the base of the distributor.
The head gasket is dry.
Valve cover seems ok.
Did notice a slightest bit of oil at the dipstick, right where the dipstick cap thingy goes over the dipstick tube.
I put a MOPAR filter on and there is a slight drip at the base of it where it meets the block mounting point.
Also notice some oil coming off the starter.
It's not much at this point, but it's bothering me.
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Just to be sure is there any oil on the dipstick tube. I know you said it was seated.
Also is the Exhaust stock as in the Catalytic converter.
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Still seems dry around the oil pressure sensor and at the base of the distributor.
The head gasket is dry.
Valve cover seems ok.
Did notice a slightest bit of oil at the dipstick, right where the dipstick cap thingy goes over the dipstick tube.
I put a MOPAR filter on and there is a slight drip at the base of it where it meets the block mounting point.
Also notice some oil coming off the starter.
It's not much at this point, but it's bothering me.
Oil off the starter is because it drips from the oil filter seat. That's normal. You might consider putting a 1/8 turn on the filter if you think it's leaking.
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how's the blowby? - you might get enough crankcase pressure to spray by the d/stick
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So, what is the best way to determine if my leak is coming from the rear main seal?
Last week I replaced the oil pressure sensor, put a new gasket at the base of the distributor, and swapped on a new oil filter. Then I cleaned the passenger side of the engine and that side is now dry.
I still have drips that come off of the starter and drips off of the connecting point between the transmission and engine. The curved oil pan that goes from the rear main seal area, down to the drain bolt is oily and eventually drips off of the drain bolt.
So I'm not sure if the leak is from the oil pan gasket, rear main seal, or valve cover, but the valve cover seems dry though.
Is there a way to inspect the rear main seal area visually?
Also, how much of a pain is the oil pan gasket?
Thank you,
13
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One way would be to clean it all up and throw talc over the areas you suspect. Then drive it and then look for runs. I doubt a real main seal is going to spray oil all over the place.
The valve cover won't be wet. it will usually leak out the backside near the firewall then down the block. I don't think it's going to make it to the starter though. Oil filter is probably be the cause there. Make sure it's tightened properly. Didn't you say you already changed it?
You can inspect the main seal by pulling the engine or transmission and removing the flywheel. If the main seal is leaking you'd see drips from the inspection slot at the bottom of the bellhousing.
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One thing to remember, oil does not flow against the wind So it blows back not forward.
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Ok I think I found something. While searching around I noticed the oil pan bolts are loose. I tightened a bunch up but it looks like a few bolts are behind the starter. So how do I get the starter off? Looks like some strange bolts holding the starter on.
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Ok I think I found something. While searching around I noticed the oil pan bolts are loose. I tightened a bunch up but it looks like a few bolts are behind the starter. So how do I get the starter off? Looks like some strange bolts holding the starter on.
IIRC it's an external Torx E-12 socket. I've heard some people use a 3/8 12 pt but you risk stripping the bolt head using the wrong tool.
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IIRC it's an external Torx E-12 socket. I've heard some people use a 3/8 12 pt but you risk stripping the bolt head using the wrong tool.
I used the 12 point 3/8 No Problem. But then Mine was covered in oil so the bolts were well lubricated.
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I checked the Jeep again last night after driving it to and from work. Seems light tightening the oil pan bolts took care of most of what was left of the leak. There is slight dripping on the starter and I think it is coming from the oil pan gasket above where the starter is. The oil filter is dry and it is still dry at the distributor base, head gasket, valve cover, and oil pressure sensor.
So it looks like I will need to do the oil pan gasket when I get some spare time this summer.
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Additional follow-up here in case anyone cares.
Tightening the oil pan bolts helped reduce the oil leak tremendously. There is a slight drip now, that I hope will be cured when I replace the oil pan gasket later this summer.
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That's good news. I changed my oil pan gasket awhile back (used blue Felpro) and made some alignment pins to hold the gasket in position as described in FSM:
Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1/4 × 1 1/2 inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier installation and removal with a screwdriver.
Install two dowels in the timing case cover, install the other two dowels in the back of the cylinder block (near the four corners).
Install the 1/4 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 14 Nm (120 in. lbs.) torque. Install the 5/16 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 18 Nm (156 in. lbs.) torque.
Pull the pins and install the last four 1/4" bolts.
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That's good news. I changed my oil pan gasket awhile back (used blue Felpro) and made some alignment pins to hold the gasket in position as described in FSM:
Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1/4 × 1 1/2 inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier installation and removal with a screwdriver.
Install two dowels in the timing case cover, install the other two dowels in the back of the cylinder block (near the four corners).
Install the 1/4 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 14 Nm (120 in. lbs.) torque. Install the 5/16 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 18 Nm (156 in. lbs.) torque.
Pull the pins and install the last four 1/4" bolts.
Good Information, wish I would have had this a month ago when I changed mine! I found my oil pan cracked on the passenger side (appears it had been repaired by one of the previous owners). I just ordered a new pan, 133 bucks and it took two weeks to deliver.
AWK
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I had to replace my TJ's oil pan couple years ago...due to dents. I found one locally for $40.
Check out car-part.com. Website of local yards.
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Still leaking. Didn't do the oil pan gasket yet. Took it to a local shop and the guy thought it was blow by coming out of the oil dipstick tube. I agree with this. It is oily on things like the distributor cap and oil filter and that general area and it is dripping down towards the starter.
So I started checking the vacuum lines on the valve cover. I had already replaced the CCV elbow on the fire wall side of the valve cover, suspecting it was plugged. However, I did not check the brass fitting on the front of the valve cover, driver side. Last night I removed that from the valve cover and cleaned that sucker out. I blew a bunch of carb cleaner into the throttle body fitting on the other end too.
After that I pulled the dipstick and put a rubber glove over the dipstick tube. With the engine at idle it would suck the glove in at the dipstick tube. I gave the engine a bunch of throttle and it still sucked the glove. So I think that clogged brass fitting might have been the main problem. This weekend I will degrease the engine again and do some driving to monitor for leaks.
I think I need to take the valve cover off and clean the baffles out underneath.
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I pulled the valve cover off and cleaned the baffles inside. Put on a new valve cover gasket and got it all back together. The oil leak seems much reduced. That clogged brass fitting seems to be the main problem. I will clean the passenger side of the engine off and monitor for leaks.