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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: jfrabat on April 23, 2016, 03:17:20 PM
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I was reconnecting all my stuff in the Jeep (since I could not wheel today courtesy of the wife needing me to take my son to a B-day that was actually NEXT saturday! LOL!), and I have noticed that my high speed fan side is not working properly. I googled for some time, but could not find a replacement motor anywhere. Any ideas where I could finf the motor? If just the motor is not available, I will get the whole thing (with shroud), but I did not find one either...
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I've heard it can be a PITA/semi-impossible to take the fan off the motor.
Looks like a new Dorman fan is about $92. - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C14FTO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00AY21P4E&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1QG8D1GS7CVYWZKZ97QP
Spectra has one for $77 - http://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CF15041-Radiator-Assembly/dp/B00Q64S5CO
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Both seem to be the single speed variety... Look at the cables coming out of the motor. I am looking for the 2 peed one. By the way, I know my mechanic replaced the motor, which is where I think I lost the 2 speeds at.
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The Dorman is the 2-speed cooling fan. I think the Spectra is as well. (Plug has three wires.)
Here's the same Dorman at Summit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-620-101
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I tested the fan today directly from the fan to the battery. It seems there is a short somewhere, because the fan worked in both speeds. Interestingly, though, it seems both speeds are running at the same speed (judging by sound; I can run it through my watt meter to be sure later on), but I dont mind. I just need 2 positives so that I can connect the automatic controller to one and the relay to the other as backup. The finding does mean that I have to re-wire the fan next week, though.
But now I have a new question; I went to refill the Jeep with gas (Air Conditioner), and the guy told me that it seems the air flow over the condenser is not enough with only the fan. I think the fan is taking air through the gap between the radiator and the condenser. Is there some sort of weather strip that can handle enough heat to put between the condenser and radiator so that the air flow is forced to go through the condenser?
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I tested the fan today directly from the fan to the battery. It seems there is a short somewhere, because the fan worked in both speeds. Interestingly, though, it seems both speeds are running at the same speed (judging by sound; I can run it through my watt meter to be sure later on), but I dont mind. I just need 2 positives so that I can connect the automatic controller to one and the relay to the other as backup. The finding does mean that I have to re-wire the fan next week, though.
But now I have a new question; I went to refill the Jeep with gas (Air Conditioner), and the guy told me that it seems the air flow over the condenser is not enough with only the fan. I think the fan is taking air through the gap between the radiator and the condenser. Is there some sort of weather strip that can handle enough heat to put between the condenser and radiator so that the air flow is forced to go through the condenser?
I would buy a thin pusher and set it on the low speed in front of the condenser
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I thought about it, but even the thin ones are half an inch too thick. But I did order a 1 1/4" insulating foam strol so try and seal the gap between the radiator and the condenser. Maybe that will force the air through the condenser and work a bit better there as well (I AM having problems with air flow over the condenser).
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I thought about it, but even the thin ones are half an inch too thick. But I did order a 1 1/4" insulating foam strol so try and seal the gap between the radiator and the condenser. Maybe that will force the air through the condenser and work a bit better there as well (I AM having problems with air flow over the condenser).
But that's only when you sitting still with the A/C on.
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But that's only when you sitting still with the A/C on.
Yup. That's when I have a problem...
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How long are you sitting around for though? You could always add a smaller A/C fan and attach it to the front of the condenser. When you're moving the fan shouldn't really need to be running. Although I have mine set up so it runs all the time when the A/C is on.
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I tested the fan today directly from the fan to the battery. It seems there is a short somewhere, because the fan worked in both speeds. Interestingly, though, it seems both speeds are running at the same speed (judging by sound;
mine has same speed on both wires, second one was meant to go to a ballast resistor (which is what i did in the end).
I just need 2 positives so that I can connect the automatic controller to one and the relay to the other as backup. The finding does mean that I have to re-wire the fan next week, though.
somewhat similar to what i did with mine, i have a lower speed on an adjustable controller and the high speed to a 95C thermocouple+relay
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mine has same speed on both wires, second one was meant to go to a ballast resistor (which is what i did in the end).
somewhat similar to what i did with mine, i have a lower speed on an adjustable controller and the high speed to a 95C thermocouple+relay
For me, it is actually BETTER if they run at the same speed. I just need the 2 positives to have 2 controlling options for the fan. I like the redundancy (plus, it's not like the controller have never failed in the past; one of them already did fail. The other time was not the controller's fault, but the wiring I did).
I am thinking about running the controller's positive through a relay. The previous version of the controller had a yellow wire that would connect to an ignition-controlled positive, and I could shut off the controller by cutting power to that wire. But the new one does not have that feature, so I am thinking about using the old control wire (that comes from the switch) to signal a relay and be able to shut off the fan. It should work out fine, as the fan is currently controlled directly by a relay of the same type I intend to use, and in theory, the controller should use less amps than running directly from the relay.
The idea is to have ON - OFF - AUTO like I used to have on my 3 position switch. The off part rarely gets used (basically for fording rivers only).