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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: littleredbeater on April 12, 2006, 12:44:19 PM
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I got in my 91 yj to head to the gas station and the check engine light was on at start up. After fill up it was gone. Next stop Sears, when I came out and started it I got the light again. While sitting at a light I shut it off to unlock my glove box to get my radio (I hate that!) and when I restarted it was gone. Anyone ever had this happen? I didn't notice it running any different. :?
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Hard to say. I'd see if the computer stored any error codes.
Follow these steps and the codes should be the same for the YJ.
http://www.kcjeepclub.org/info/tech/tj_error_codes.php
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I'm thinking she might be pissed that I'm spending so much on gas and not buying any jeep parts lately. haha If I find anythinginteresting I'll post it.
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I've had this problem before. Try taking the gas cap off and then putting it on and making sure it's on tight (3 clicks). I forget what code this is but it has to do with either using bad gas (mine came from Mobil twice) or just not having a sealed gas cap. Try that...btw my Jeep is mad at me for not buying parts also.
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I don't think that should matter or bring up a light on a ODBI. I think that's a ODBII 'Feature'.
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91 is OBDI compliant all the way up to 95. The number of codes the ECM stores is very limited. An OBDII on a 97 and up, however has 200+ reasons to make that light come on. The gas cap seal/no seal doesn't affect OBDI vehicles. There is another code flow chart for the YJ's it has to do with the number of times the engine light flashes after cycling the key in a certain pattern. Don't know off the top of my head where it's at though.
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That chart for the 97' TJ works for the YJ...
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Jeffy is right, the TJ will flash the engine light the same as the YJ will, the flow chart is just different in some ways. The 97 up will get more specific on the problem with a scan tool instead of just the number of flashes.
For the YJ though it's pretty straight forward, if you need help after you get the code with pulling some diag. info post it and I can try to dig it up from ALLDATA for ya.
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funny thing is the light clears on restart, usually it takes two drive cycles to clear a pending or stored code doesn't it? That's what was weird to me. start it.... there. restart it..... gone. start it...... there. restart it......gone. Hasn't happened since though. I was kinda looking for a reason to work on it some more. haha I still need to port match my intake, TB and spacer; and I figured I'd put on the header while I'm in there :lol:
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different codes can vary the number of drive cycles to auto clear it. some codes are hard codes and once they are set it's a done deal till it's cleared out.
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ok so now it's on solid and here's what I have.
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 Key-on cycles
33 An open or shorted condition detected in the duty cycle purge solenoid circuit.
41 An open or shorted condition in the generator field control circuit.
22 Engine coolant temperature sensor above or below acceptable voltage.
24 Throttle position sensor input above or below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor.
it seemed to be related to a rough start up, it runs fine though. any ideas?
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Where does your Volt gauge spend most of it's time?. If your reading somewhere around 13.9 or higher (no lower than 12.5) then your alternator is at least supplying enough voltage for your sensors to work properly (which would mean that the low signal voltage codes you have were not a low charging system voltage problem). The voltage regulator is built into the back of the alternator, so changing just it isn't very feasible for most people.
Have you started the engine with the CTS or TPS sensors unplugged (ie. did a TB swap and tried to start the jeep before hooking up the wires or had the CTS sensor disconnected while the engine was running using an ohm meter to test your CTS).
Not sure why your getting a purge solenoid code... check the wiring going to the purge solenoid to make sure it's ok. The solenoid itself is usually to blame though.
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i actually did start the jjep after a tb swap with those two sensors unplugged but shut it off and plugged them back in and it was ok. that was two months ago. could i have damaged something?
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OK so on the way home last night my volt gauge was reading about 10, I'm going to spray some brake cleaner in there and see if it's not just dirty brushes but if that doesn't help would you suspect the alternator or the voltage regulator?
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No, it won't hurt it. That just explains why you set those two hard codes in memory. So, you can probably ignore them as you trouble shoot the problem.
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Most definitely the alt or voltage regulator at that point
10 volts is terribly low. As I mentioned before; under high drain, with the alt full fielded working its balls off, you shouldn't see ANYTHING less then about 12.5volts. If it's below 11, you can rest assured your alt isn't doing a whole lot to put back the voltage your jeep is taking from your battery. I'm surprised you haven't noticed slower cranking speeds when you start 'er up in the morning :shock:
There is a tiny chance your volt gauge is off due to a poor connection. This would cause a little higher than normal resistance in the volt gauge circuit and cause it to read a deceptively low voltage reading. To dispel this possibility, I suggest getting your hands on a multi-meter (aka VOM, DMM, ect.).
Check the battery voltage when the Jeep is off and note what it's at. Then have an assistant start it (if your lazy like me 8) ) and check to see that the voltage at the battery increases. With everything off and just the jeep running, you should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 13-13.8volts. My jeep runs at 14v. A reading as low as 12.5v could be seen, this just means the battery is fully charged and the alternator isn't working very hard to maintain it.
The next check you can do to ensure your alternator full-fields properly is done while the engine is running. Have your assistant turn on all the electrical crap they can... The headlamps on high beam, the wipers on high, and the heater blower on high should do it. I don't like to turn on turn sigs. or flashers because it causes a rhythmic voltage dip which looks funny on the meter as your watching it. With all of this stuff running, the voltage shouldn't dip below 12.5volts (Especially if it read 13 or so before you put the load on it).
If the voltage falls on it's face when you do the last check (full field test) or if the voltage doesn't increase much or at all when the jeep is started, you can pretty much bet you either have a problem with the alternator itself, or the built in voltage regulator and you'll need to put a new one in. I think these are Jap Denso's or something similar, so they're probably $100+ (I would guess between $125 and $145). That sucks. Good luck and let us know what you find when you test it (or have it tested somewhere if you decide to do that instead)!
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well after a half of a can of brake cleaner with engine off, and the other half while running I managed to convince my alternator that it had some life left in it. haha Just thought I'd share that with you all. $3.49 for a can of brake cleaner is better than $100+ for an alternator.
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Here is an interesting one for you...
I had an '89 S10 Blazer 4x4 before I got my wrangler. Never had any problems out of it even though it had 196k on the odometer. But, when ever I went to the land that I bowhunt on, every time I came out, at the same place on the gravel road the check engine light came on. I could drive about 300 yards down the road and it went off. It never came on anywhere but this particular place on this gravel road. And it never came on as I was going in, only coming out. I suppose it must have been some type of electrical interference in that particular spot.
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33 is related to A/C and can be ignored. 12, 33, 55 normally pop up when there are no problems. That leaves 41 and 22.
Does your temp gauge work? What's it say? The sender for the computer is on the head located behind #4 cylinder. I think it's on the right side as you look at it. There should be one wire going to it. Even if the gauge works, the sender for the PCM migth not be working. That leaves 41. Alternator going bad?
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funny you mention the temp gauge. First, I thought the PCM uses the one in the thermostat housing? Second, my gauge is not working so I buzzed out the wire all the way back to the plug that connects to the gauge panel (purple wire) and it's ok, so I put a new temp switch in. (not sure why they call it a switch but whatever) even with the new sender in the gauge still doesn't work. I put a DMM on the sender and it is working so could I have a bad gauge? I think I must but can I just change the gauge or do I have to change the whole gauge panel? Anyone have a spare?
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aw specking of having bad gas... on vacation in colorado 2 years back we got a bad tank of gas in our 49 willys and when we got on the trail (not knowing of the bad gas) we started going up hill and as the trail got roffer the engine lost more and more power and ran ruffer.. so long story shortend we ended up frying the starter so we had to turn it around on the trail by hard and had to sitt al 4 of us in the jeep rollit down the hill bunching all over the place to pop the clutch to starrt the jeep......
luckly we have some relatives that lived cose by with a nice garage cumplete with a pit... so we rebiult the carb rebilt the starter and refined our trail mounted eklectric fuel pump instaled days later when going up mount blonka
but the next day we had to head home.. but we couldnt leave the trail un concered so we did it from the other side..but we didnt know yet that we had bad gas.. but we figured it out halfway up the hill.. buit after 2 on trail carb rebiulds we made it to the top of the trail...
well that was a bit long and off topic.. but there it is.