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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: JWJeeper94 on May 10, 2006, 06:23:31 AM
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I have a 94 Wrangler, 2.5 I have been learning about alot of things and doing moderately well, even changing the chocolate milk that came out of the tranny when changing the fluid, got jeep from auction. I have tried numerous times to understand where the bleeder is for the tranny.What it shows in the book and what I'm looking at seems to be two different things.they show a bleeder screw,and the line going in seperately. All I see is a black tube ( slave )with the line running into it. checked both sides of tranny and there seems to be no seperate bleeder. Now this slave seems to be bolted on with the two dust cap screws. but the line also seems to be immoveable.there is a zip tie around the line over the slave nipple.for the love of mankind please help me figure this out.Allthough this seems like a simple task it is just frustrating.I am under the immpression that it needs bled. When stopped and try to put into gear it won't go,unless you match rev the engine 2-3 times and find the right RPM's
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Some Late 94's and 95's have an external slave. This sounds to be what you are describing. Not all external slaves are bleedable. I have a TJ friend who bought a replacement and he had to bleed it before installation as the slave did not have a bleeder valve. Qtec used to have a pdf describing how to do this, my searching isn't proving very successful.
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I appreciate the help and now at least I know what it's called. The book I have (haynes) has served me well on alot of the things I have done. However it doesn't show anything on the slave cylinder except to bleed it.Do you know what's involved if I remove the slave cylinder ? can I bleed it that way or are springs going to fly, fluid loss, and can it be put back in easily?
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anyone know ?
how to bleed an external slave ?
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Does it have a hex worm in the side of the slave?
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yes it does , what I have tried was what the manual said ,,, depress the clutch and open screw , when nothing came out I assumed that wasn't the bleeder. Please tell me it is and you can enlighten me as to how it is done. The closest thing I can find that looks almost the same is an Omix-ada slave cylinder, couldn't find any info or diagrams on it.
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I think it is the bleeder. Pump up the clutch till it's firm then open the bleeder then close with the pedal still to the floor. Keep trying till, all the air is out. Might require several attemps. Are you atleast getting air to come out?
I've never delt with the non-zerk bleeders though. Can't pump fluid up the line like you can with the zerks.
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Well now my leg is ready to fall off, Jeffy I pumped that clutch endlessly even thought if I started the engine (don't ask) it would make a difference. It didn't, pedal goes down with little effort and doesn't "pump up" I have bled brakes in my day so I suppose I'm looking for that stiffness in the pedal, which I didn't find. If we figure this one out we should get a medal.I think I'm going to stop at the aamco and see what they say. If they can bleed it it'll be worth the money to save my sanity, I'll let you know what happens so you can pass it on.
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stupid I know but I've done it........ don't forget to fill your resivoure with fluid after every two or three bleed attempts.
(Pedal to floor-open bleeder- close bleeder- let pedal back up) Repeat twice then refill fluid.
This is what I've had the best luck with. I just did my clutch too. Good luck.
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thanks for the reminder, although when I open the bleeder ( I assume that's what it is) nothing comes out. And the guy's at aamco weren't even sure if an external cylinder could be bled, but they offered a $39.95 external diagnostic, which we know where that would end up ( in my wallet for anything related to the part in question) so I declined their generous offer.The quest continues!!!
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Let me ask my friend about it. He's a Service Manager.
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the qtec link is supposed to be www.quadratec.com/pdf/slave_cylinder.pdf
Some after market slave's have a screw that looks like a bleeder, but is not.
Try this. Take the slave off and cycle it in a "bowl" of DOT5 fluid till all the air bubbles disappear. Another theory is these slave's are self bleeding.(yeah right) Attache the slave to the line but not to the bell housing. cycle the piston by hand ensuring the fluis level stays up.
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Well my friend said that if it came with the tube, it's been preblead. If not then you're supposed to be able to bleed it through the allen.
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I talked to some people that wrench on a variety of auto's and the general consensus is to pull the slave out and see is the rod is adjustable, gonna try this when the weather is a little less wet here.I'm considerinf replacing the whole system, master and slave to just circumvent this problem, what do you think? and any prefered type ?
I appreciate everyone hanging with meto this point on this and going out of their way to find answers , thank you
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Hi mick here from across the pond,check that there is a hole drilled
below the grub screw.Ive changed two so far,( tj andxj) and both
had the grub screw but no bleed hole drilled under the screw.
Micky S
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Hi mick here from across the pond,check that there is a hole drilled
below the grub screw.Ive changed two so far,( tj andxj) and both
had the grub screw but no bleed hole drilled under the screw.
Micky S
Ok, that's a stupid design! :shock: I'm thinking that's the problem though. So, do you just drill a small hole?
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YES, the suppler told me to check it the first time i had to replace
one.
Mick S
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YES, the suppler told me to check it the first time i had to replace
one.
Mick S
Wow, that's a new one. Good first post too! Welcome.
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Well I figured I would just cut the ole' hog in the arse and buy a whole new master,slave,hose kit, and just be done with it. Well wouldn't ya know that no matter what the salespeople tell you it's not what your getting. Sure they said it can be bled ! and away I went with my order which required help loading inton the Jeep. Never figured on checking to make sure what sense would that make right !? well I got the same thing I already have but installed it anyway just to make sure it's not just a bad unit. Or out of adjustment, hey a guy can hope.
Gents, my hats off to ya for continuing through the nightmare of wrenching on things yourself. Jeeps are tough going sometimes but ya gotta love-em, either that or they would be dredging them off the bottom of every body of water.
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So did you get it? Seems weird that you'd have to drill a bleeder hole.
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I know this topic is a bit old, but I was having an issue where I could normally shift ok if I was quick about it, but if I had to hold the clutch in (at a stoplight or something like that) it would slowly release on it's own. I'd have to pull it out of gear, let the clutch pedal up for a minute, and then it would be driveable again. I figured it was because either the master or slave was leaking internally around a seal.
I got the slave/master kit from tellico4x4.com and it comes pre-assembled and bled. I did notice that it came with a place for the allen screw but without a hole under it, I took the screw out of my original and put it in just to be safe. The original had a hole under it, so some fluid came out. The new system worked great right away and I can hold the clutch as long as I want, but I have a feeling that it's still not disengaging the clutch as much as it should. I wonder if we could just replace the screw (after putting a hole through to bleed with) with a one-way self bleeder screw and then bleeding more easily that way? Any body ever tried that?
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When you replace a master or slave you always have to bleed the system to get all air bubbles out of the system (air compresses rendering a hydraulic system less or non functional). If there are no bleeders you bleed by cracking lines, starting at the top were the line connects to the master and working your way down. Bleeding air from a brake or clutch hydraulic system is normally a 2 person job, unless you buy one of those pressure bleed units, someone has to hold the peddle down with there foot while you crack lines and/or bleeder valves. Reading this thread I didnt see mention of this 2 person process anywhere? If you really want to bullet proof your hydraulic clutch and/or brake system use the DOT 5 Synthetic brake fluid, it's amazing stuff and repells water unlike normal brake fluids which absorb water and are made from water soluble compounds.
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Looks like ive got the same situation.
How does one bleed the clutch when your set up looks like this? (http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e44/327amc/jeep/DSC00278.jpg)
Occasionally, my clutch (which always has to go to the floor when used) will not completely disengage. The jeep still idles, but causes a rough idle. This only happens occasionally. Like at a stop light. The clutch is all the way in to the floor, and i gotta yank it outta gear. Other that that happening about 1 out of every 30 shifts, it shifts fine. No grind ever.
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there should be a bleeder line coming out the other side of the bell-housing... atleast that's what my 1990yj has
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right you are. thanks. :hitit: