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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: YJmechanic on June 20, 2006, 03:21:29 PM
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I'm getting a ford 8.8 rear this weakend to fab into my jeep. This got me thinking about how strong the d30 is being that it is only a front axle.
i have the 456's for the 8.8 and d30 so I'm difiniteley going to run it for a while but should I look for a d44 before locking the d30? here's the plan, My 4cyl isn't going anywhere anytime soon and the tires are staying at 36X12.50 on the street and 35x16 on the trail. What do you guys think/ anyone got stories good or bad for he d30?
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The D30 isn't as weak as some people think. The D35 is a bigger problem for sure. You should be ok with a D30 and up to 36's. Although you don't want to be beating on it too much. Also, you'll probably want to make sure you're running 297x series U-joints and not 260x's. You might also want to run a one piece shaft for the passenger side.
35x16's would be really wide. I might be worried about the U-joints some.
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I'm not about to complain about the D30... But I've got so much invested in mine it would be stupid to bail on it now.
I'm sure but looking around you'll see all the fun stuff I've done. But to avoid having you search like a madman, here ya go.
Inside: ARB 30spline Air locker, Superior 30 spline inners, 4.88 Motive gears.
Outside: Nascar style (external) axle seals, OX u-joints, Warn 5x4.5 hub conversion.
Steering: GM tie rod ends, DOM tubing
http://www.4bangerjp.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1306&highlight=
Now all that's been invested, there is no question that I would have been better starting off with a D44.
D44 ring gear diameter = 8.5" OD - 5.56" ID stock 30 spline (1.31" dia)
D30 ring gear diameter = 7.2" OD - 4.5 " ID stock 27 spline (1.16" dia)
Edited to add: I'm running 35" BFG M/T's
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I have seen guys running 36s and an ARB with a TJ d30 with no problems. I believe Superior and Alloy both have 30 spline upgrade kits if you are worried
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The problem is how much do you want to spend. If you're wanting to run 35+ tires then you really want to regear properly. That means going lower then 4.88:1. That's the biggest problem with the D30. You can dump a bunch of money into the D30 but you will still be limited to 4.88:1. If you're planning on going big do it right the first time. You won't ever make up the money invested in a D30 if you changed your mind later.
I think I've only for $200 invested in might right now. 4.56's and a TruTrac...
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i have the gears for it already. I got them from the guy with the 8.8 as part of the deal and figure I'll use a cheap locker for it as to not waste too much on it. I'm not going to superior axles though because I think it is just not worth it for that axle. The one piece tj axles can bolt roght in? Is there anything esle other than covering the vacuum actuator plate? Does that also mean you can use those super seal axle seals for the tj d30?
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You can dump a bunch of money into the D30 but you will still be limited to 4.88:1.
I thought someone had come out with some 5.13 for the D30.
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(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c33/SMC4WD/Img_0463.jpg)
These?? These should work on the TJ D30. People have told me I can remove my inner seals and fill the whole axle with fluid. I don't buy that :roll: Nor would I recommend it.
And that 5.13 gear set for the D30... hahahaha That's scary. The reason I say that, I did a very lame comparision of pinion gears... The 9" that I built had like a 2.07 ratio. I compared that pinion gear to the 4.88 pinion on the D30. The D30 pinion looked like a walnut compared to the grapefruit sized F9" pinion. Now I know that's not a fair comparison, but a 5.13 pinion would have like 4 teeth and be the size of a peanut..
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yeah those are the seals I was talking about but for a yj d30. I heard that a xj left axle would be better than a tj.
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I didn't know there was a difference...
make sure you're running 297x series U-joints and not 260x's
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yeah those are the seals I was talking about but for a yj d30. I heard that a xj left axle would be better than a tj.
No difference in the seals between a YJ and TJ
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On this one, I think I should have been more clear...
Regarding the axles... I didn't think there was a difference between the TJ and the XJ...
Correct me if I'm wrong on that one.
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On this one, I think I should have been more clear...
Regarding the axles... I didn't think there was a difference between the TJ and the XJ...
Correct me if I'm wrong on that one.
I thought that all the axle shafts were the same for YJ, TJ, XJ, but the u-joint size changed in '94 when they went to the larger 297x joint
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I didn't know there was a difference...
make sure you're running 297x series U-joints and not 260x's
CJ D30's and most YJ's till 1994 have x260 U-joints. XJ's switched a year earlier then the YJ's, I believe. The 297x's are D44 series U-joints. So they are larger and subsequenty, stronger. There is also another U-joint that is a replacemnet for the 297x that is even stronger then it. It carries a 5 or a 7. I'd have to look up the actual number though. It wouldn't be recommended to run these in a D30 since you'll really be looking at broken gears and snapped axle shafts as your weakpoints.
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my point was running the straight axle to eliminate the vacuum disconnect. So I can use any xj or tj axle for that?
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my point was running the straight axle to eliminate the vacuum disconnect. So I can use any xj or tj axle for that?
Yes, that will worn BUT your front driveshaft will not turn 24/7. YJ driveshafts aren't balanced so you might get some vibrations at higher speeds. Also, some people add seals to the axle housing to keep them from leaking. I'm not really sure if this is necessary since mine don't leak.
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add seals where? You mean out at the end of the tube as well as the inner seal?
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With the vacuum disconnect axle there is a seal just past the actuator towards the knuckle. When you convert to a one piece axle you should add a seal inside the pumpkin to prevent lose of oil. The driver's side has this seal.
I have driven my Jeep at highway speeds in 4x4 with no problems