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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: tanbuffsidriva on September 18, 2006, 05:48:27 PM
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whatsup guys. ive got a shitload of questions? im pretty new to the jeep thing i bought a 2000 wrangler 2.5l put a 4" lift on it with 33x13.5x15 super swampers ive also put a banks exhaust , jet stage 2 chip, and aem brute force intake on it. it does alright around the city but once i go uphill im screwed. i tried driving down the freeway a couple days ago and i could only go about 30 uphill if i was lucky. and eventually it overheated over and over again. so im thinking i need to regear right? what all do i need to regear? how much will it all cost? and how much of a difference will it make? i mean will i be able to cruise down the freeway at a decent speed? id like to learn everything i can about this so i appreciate any help. thanks
peace
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Regearing can get expensive but it's well worth it. The only consideration that you need to decide on is if you to ever upgrade the axles or not. That will determin if it's worth it to regear the stock axles.
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4.88s....that'll get you everything you'll ever need...with 33s itll be lower than stock but still ramain somewhat normal with the gas milage...4.88s and 36s would be the same as stock (well close anyway...)
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Yeah...I need 4.88's.
I've always been thinking of 4.88's as that is the limitation for my D30....does anyone know what the Ford 8.8 will take....anything to be concerned about if I make the Ford conversion? I really want to start working on this so I can then save for 35's.
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buy the 9" from Currie...itll be easier than the 8.8....
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..yeah...but I could get the Ford rear-end complete for about $300....$300 for brackets....$300 for gears...$300-500 for fab work and install....damn...what does that add up to??
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..yeah...but I could get the Ford rear-end complete for about $300....$300 for brackets....$300 for gears...$300-500 for fab work and install....damn...what does that add up to??
Other option would be to go leafs in the back. Probably cost the same, too. :stick:
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..yeah...but I could get the Ford rear-end complete for about $300....$300 for brackets....$300 for gears...$300-500 for fab work and install....damn...what does that add up to??
Other option would be to go leafs in the back. Probably cost the same, too. :stick:
...and then I could add square headlights.....
JUst got back from my local 4x4 shop and the reccomendation was to go with the D44...housing...complete...whatever...just for the fact that it will slide right in as there is no reliable person around here to weld new brackets on.....and the fact that I will never probably wheel it so hard that I need to concern myself about the difference between a D44 and Ford 8.8.
Good news is that it looks like I'll be able to do my SYE with the D35 and not worry about getting a new driveshaft when I put a D44 on there....the difference is negligable.
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...and then I could add square headlights.....
Actually, going to leafs will solve many problems with the TJ on and offroad. It's not that uncommon to see. I new a few members here have done it.
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what would leafs fix onroad??????
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what would leafs fix onroad??????
Tire lift. When you start lifting a TJ and don't move to long arms, you'll start to notice it. You can actually induce it on road by cutting the wheel left and accelerating hard. The driverside front tire will actually pick up because of the suspension geometry and engine torque. It looks pretty cool though.
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oic.. well the only ty we have is the rubicon and we have a long arm kit on it so we cant experience that...
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what would leafs fix onroad??????
Tire lift. When you start lifting a TJ and don't move to long arms, you'll start to notice it. You can actually induce it on road by cutting the wheel left and accelerating hard. The driverside front tire will actually pick up because of the suspension geometry and engine torque. It looks pretty cool though.
I did that the other day turning around in someone's driveway. It's rather easy to do to. Neat to see people's eyes wide open when you do it in the middle of the street at a light. You are waiting for an open window to make a left turn through oncoming traffic. The other cross street traffic sitting there watching you inch you way into the intersection. When the time comes, turn left and punch the accelerator. With the sway bar attached, you'll lift the left front off the ground. You don't really floor it, but a punch will do. If the streets are flat, you won't have a problem laying it on it's side as when you start to straighten out the wheel, the tire comes right back down. And you smile at the other sitting driver's just awing at you.
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Why are you overheating is my question? My 4 banger is nearly impossible to overheat unless the fan stopps working altogether.
When I had the clutch fan it never overheated. When I switched to electric, the motor barely gets to 180, BUT I did change my thermostat down to a 165 degrees. The 165 is a little low for winter but it's great in the Summer. Will go up to a 180 in the winter for heat.
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damn ive never noticed the tire lift before! what happens if u remove the sway bars? same thing?
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Here's my friend's old TJ.
(http://highlift.com/photos/cool/tjwheelie.jpg)
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Ok, Ok... Tire lift is fun, it is cool to see and a blast to do but....
Tire lift is, no traction on the ground. Not traction means no forward motion. No forward motion means... your stuck! (well, lockers excluded on this one).
Those pictures that I showed (that the right word, right?) showed?? Shown, had shown... The pictures that you guys saw of that red Jeep Renagade... He has a Warn 4 coil conversion... We used to get his tire to lift and drive it for many a feet... Like almost 50 feet I'm guessing... Ya, it was a real head turner!!
It's cool that you got a picture of that Jeffy... You don't see it too often.
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Ok, Ok... Tire lift is fun, it is cool to see and a blast to do but....
Tire lift is, no traction on the ground. Not traction means no forward motion. No forward motion means... your stuck! (well, lockers excluded on this one).
Those pictures that I showed (that the right word, right?) showed?? Shown, had shown... The pictures that you guys saw of that red Jeep Renagade... He has a Warn 4 coil conversion... We used to get his tire to lift and drive it for many a feet... Like almost 50 feet I'm guessing... Ya, it was a real head turner!!
It's cool that you got a picture of that Jeffy... You don't see it too often.
Actually this is a bit different...
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Actually this is a bit different...
Oh?? what do you mean? Are you talking about off road, tire lifting, no traction compared to on road, tire lifting fun?
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Actually this is a bit different...
Oh?? what do you mean? Are you talking about off road, tire lifting, no traction compared to on road, tire lifting fun?
Well, it was a question on the validity of a leaf conversion on a TJ in order to stop induced tire pick up. Which is a bit different then being off camber situation since even a leaf sprung Jeep will exibit some tire lift. Does that make sense? I'm not even sure anymore. LOL! :nothing: :wave:
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4.88s....that'll get you everything you'll ever need...with 33s itll be lower than stock but still ramain somewhat normal with the gas milage...4.88s and 36s would be the same as stock (well close anyway...)
Naw, 5.38 is the route to take with 35" and 36", 5.13 is closer to ideal for 33" and a 4banger. 4.88 are only popular because that's as low as you can go in stock axles, and barely adequate if at all.
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i am overheating because going uphill im at such high RPMs for so long . my jeep is constantly at 200 usually at 210 just driving around town even if in the mornings when its cold. so if i use the 4.88s i can use the stock axle but if i go with the 5.13s ive got to swap the axle? how well will 4.88s do for me? will i be able to make it uphill at 50mph? and maintain my speed on the freeway? and where can i buy 4.88s at? what all do i need to swap gears? thanks for your help.
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i am overheating because going uphill im at such high RPMs for so long . my jeep is constantly at 200 usually at 210 just driving around town even if in the mornings when its cold. so if i use the 4.88s i can use the stock axle but if i go with the 5.13s ive got to swap the axle? how well will 4.88s do for me? will i be able to make it uphill at 50mph? and maintain my speed on the freeway? and where can i buy 4.88s at? what all do i need to swap gears? thanks for your help.
Hmm, never had the overheating problem but it's something to take into consideration. You are correct that going to 5.13 or lower will require an axle swap.
Without knowing what size tires you currently have, it's hard to determine what you'r RPM's and speeds will be. BUT with 33's you should be ok. You'll be on the higher side but generally it shouldn't be too bad. This will be a huge change for teh ebtter if you currently have stock gears.
For 4.88 gears you will need to buy them from Superior, Yukon or USAllow, I believe. They are sold by different 4x4 shops like QTech and 4wdH, etc... ,as well as gear warehouses like Randy's R&P, West Coast Differential, etc...
You will also need to buy a 'Master Install kit' and make sure it has new carrier bearings with it. You will need two kits, one for each gear set. You will also need someone to install them. Prices vary greatly depending on where you look. 4X4 shops will be more expensive then speed shops. If you can bring the axles into the shop out of the vehicle, you can usually save a bit more. You can see prices anywhere from $50-400.
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You might want to think about electric fan conversion like flex-a-lite for the heating issue. http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/jeep-wrangler.html
The Black Diamond Xtreme Coil Link (XCL) X2 system is now for the CJ, YJ, & TJ actually puts leafs on the rear for the TJ kit and has shown some advantages for hardcore rock-climbing at Moab.
http://www.superlift.com/suspension/jeep/BD-X2.asp
http://www.4wheelonline.com/jeep/Categories.aspx?CategoryId=25810
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You might want to think about electric fan conversion like flex-a-lite for the heating issue. http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/jeep-wrangler.html
The Black Diamond Xtreme Coil Link (XCL) X2 system is now for the CJ, YJ, & TJ actually puts leafs on the rear for the TJ kit and has shown some advantages for hardcore rock-climbing at Moab.
http://www.superlift.com/suspension/jeep/BD-X2.asp
http://www.4wheelonline.com/jeep/Categories.aspx?CategoryId=25810
Wow, that kit is really interesting. Kinda like the Fabtech for the YJ.
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www.completeoffroad.com is a good place for gears, lockers, and install kits.
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thanks alot for all your help youve helped alot. ill be getting it done soon
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If you're not going to be ready for a front axle swap anytime soon, get the 4.88's. They make a WORLD of difference. I used to lose speed going up overpasses in Houston with the stock 4.10's after my lift. I can cruise all day in 5th with no trouble now!
Yea, the 4.88's for the D30 are thin, but always take into account that we 4bangers don't have the torque to hurt anything like that (well..not very often anyway).
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If you're not going to be ready for a front axle swap anytime soon, get the 4.88's. They make a WORLD of difference. I used to lose speed going up overpasses in Houston with the stock 4.10's after my lift. I can cruise all day in 5th with no trouble now!
Yea, the 4.88's for the D30 are thin, but always take into account that we 4bangers don't have the torque to hurt anything like that (well..not very often anyway).
+1 I have never heard of anyone, 2.5L or 4.0L that has broken their gears because they were "thin". So I really wouldn't worry about that. You'll probably break something else before the gears anyway.