4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Tall Boy on October 17, 2006, 06:28:28 PM
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ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA IF ONE OF THESE WILL WORK ON OUR 4 BANGERS . FROM J.C WHITNEY.COM
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2011788/p-2011788/N-111+10201+600002080/c-10101
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no
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:yikes:
Looks scary...
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I LIKE THE LOOKS OF IT ENTIRELY MYSELF !!!! MORE BANG FOR THE BUCK YEAH. GET ZE TUBO POWAH YEAH LIKE VROCKET SHIP.
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throw it on then! Report back with a dyno sheet and how many kills ya got on the street!! :D :lol:
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There is also an Ebayer selling something duplicate. It doesn't do anything you think it would do. Adding air pressure to the cylinder does increase volumetric effeciency, you have to get more air in. Little fans don't.
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Oh!!!
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I think the one on Ebay was a boat fan or some sort. It's only good for wasting money and maybe fanning yourself.
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Maybe you could try one of these e-ram deals. Its at www.electricsupercharger.com. Comes in one and two motor versions. It only works at full-throttle.
The electric supercharger concept is not a terrible idea on a street vehicle. But, the modest air pressure you are going to generate with these little motors -- at least on the jc whitney thing and the e-ram thing - probably make it more trouble than its worth - ie., in this case, "great, I spent $600 to drop 3/10ths off my quarter mile time in a frigging 2.5 Wrangler that, stock, does 0-60 in a rocket-like 15 seconds... :lol: "
The Thomas Knight company, www.boosthead.com, seems to have the induction pressure equation worked out with the electric superchargers and Knight has apparently been working on the designs for close to 30 years. Course, he is using multiple electrical motors which total 20hp on his kits. And, the setup is apparently as costly as a regular supercharger or turbocharger or more. Still, its probably a concept that's going to see more action as vehicle electrical systems go from 12V to 42V on cars/trucks and battery technology improves.
Anyway, doing all this on a 2.5 Wrangler? Not sure If I'd want an electric boost "anything" on an off-road vehicle. But, I'm not going to knock it too much until I've tried it (course, don't plan on trying it on my 2.5 Wrangler). But, if you have the cash, don't mind rolling the dice, and don't plan on encountering any water, then fire it up -- eram or whatever -- and let us know how it goes. Will certainly be an interesting story
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Nice Turbo Blow Dryer! :shock: About all that would be good for :lol: ..............................That will give ya the Don King look..................................... :D
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The Thomas Knight company, www.boosthead.com, seems to have the induction pressure equation worked out with the electric superchargers and Knight has apparently been working on the designs for close to 30 years. Course, he is using multiple electrical motors which total 20hp on his kits. And, the setup is apparently as costly as a regular supercharger or turbocharger or more. Still, its probably a concept that's going to see more action as vehicle electrical systems go from 12V to 42V on cars/trucks and battery technology improves.
This one is legit and does work BUT it's not designed to be run all the time. it's more like Nitrus. Those starter motors will burn out if it's run for too long. The compressor is a real compressor unlike the others which are just fans. Those TK's are probably expensive and since it doesn't run all the time, pretty worthless for anyone looking for something more constant. In that case it's probably be better tto save your money and buy a boat fan. Interesting product none the less but needs more development to work for longer periods.
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Looks to me like someone hacked up a hair dryer and made it a few different colors, and took out the heating element. I'd buy it for my Girlfriend, not my jeep.
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I took a vacation trip from Southern Califonia to Denver and back prior to modifying my Jeep. So, full of gear and water and such, on the way back in this valley on the I -70 in Utah between Green River and Salinas this apparently fully loaded big rig hits 90 mph coming down a hill and I was in the fast lane , pedal to the metal going 60-70mph and he passed me and damn near threw me into the guard rail median. Nobody was around for miles, and it was in early January. After that I did everything I could to performance modify it, but can't afford a turbo kit. I got passed by loaded big rigs going up the eisenhower tunnel grade , and the vail pass.
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I'm still running little tires (29") and stock gearing, but my 4 banger, with 140k on the OD, will cruise at "80" ok and has topped out at the limiter, around "95mph." Can usually accelerate slightly up hills in 5th gear at highway speeds - course we are talking sea-level, not high-altitude Denver, Rockies etc.
If you can't get over 65-70, you must have big tires and stock gearing or you haven't cracked in to modifying the exhaust or intake at all or something. I had good luck getting better highway speeds doing stuff like adding a good cat-back (borla) and a decent intake (nowadays you have the AEM kits with the heat-shield)-seemed to make getting up to and cruising at 80mph a lot less of a chore for my 4Banger (once the engine adjusts for the mods). And, if you absolutely had to go 90 mph, then you could do that too with this setup - although, at that point, your engine is reving well past your torque peak at almost 4000rpm (oil- burning-RPMs for the 2.5 4 banger :lol:
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Right. I did have 30's on , without any modifications whatsoever from stock configuration. I have gotten mine to 95 when it was completely stock not paying attention coming down the grade into Indio. But I can get her up to 80 mph now I got the rock it intake and k&n filter, flowmaster muffler and airaid tbs with my 30x9.50x15's on aluminum rims. But now that I read here the write ups on the 4.0 throttle body I am going to look into getting one. The only problem is out here Scotty's jeep has cornered the market for Jeep junk yards. Well, scotty knows we are coming and marks his prices up to just under retail so we have the option to save a "FEW" bucks, or get it new.
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I got mine on Ebay for 35.00
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I spent $100 for a nice custom fab job, 62mm 4.0 TB on EBay - very nicely done (don't have the darn link though). Had to mail the core 2.5 back. You can probably find something like that on there.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-62mm-63mm-4-0L-2-5L-1991-04-Ported-Throttle-Body_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33558QQihZ016QQitemZ260045747684QQrdZ1
This is basically what I have, the 62mm fab job with brass plate. Has worked fine; helps low end a bit - not as deep in to the throttle to motor around town. Accelerating hard to get to highway speed is a bunch easier. Probably worth about 5 hp/5lbft on the stock 2.5, when all is said and done. Assuming the thing works as advertised, its a way better deal than dropping $400 for a 62mm TB with some of these online shops - basically every internet 4x4 retailer sells them at that price, $400 or more.
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Sweet, fifty hp must be for the cam modification for the 4.0's. I have never done any e bay shopping , so this will be the 1st and hopefully the most memorable. Although I must include that brass is not that strong, but now that I think of it, the old throttle plate may be copper. I have no idea but I know it is a soft metal by means of incorporating the geographical scratch test.
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The only thing with these bored throttle bodies is that the higher air flow, especially when you are using the bored TB together with a cone filter & wide intake tubing, may cause the engine to run lean.
The Wrangler computer budgets fuel based on "intake air temperature" (IAT) sensor and "manifold air pressure" (MAP) sensor readings. You install a bored TB and new intake gear, then the higher air flow yield may tend to lower the pressure readings on the MAP sensor, causing a lean running condition (IAT is a different issue that can be managed with a CAI kit or relocating the IAT sensor away from the intake manifold).
Apparently the way to fix this MAP issue, after such intake mods, is to order/install an "Adjustable MAP sensor" from a company such as Turbo City, www.turbocity.com. But, this sensor costs more than the EBay bored/fabbed TB:" $130 +." At some point this year, I may venture down to Turbo City in Orange County and get those guys to install an adjustable MAP sensor and modified Crank Position Sensor (another doodad they sell) and have them test and modify until they get the whole engine synched-up with Cal emissions laws.
Wish the danged YJs and TJs (2.5/4.0) came with (MAF) Mass Air Flow sensors (2.4 TJ may, actually) instead of the MAP/IAT setup. Would be a lot easier to deal with - MAF sensor's computer would fully, automatically adjust to reasonable air flow mods without a need for aftermarket sensors, etc. Guess the new JK's "6" is "MAF," though.
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The only problem that I know of with the mass air flow sensor is the needle that protrudes from the sensor and determines air temperature gets caked up from the oil from the cone filters and throws a trouble code. And apparently it is too difficult to clean because the air flow just bakes it onto the needle. I mean , there are aftermarket air flow sensors on the market, but I know they cost between $250.00 and $500.00 from what I have seen.
So, I am assuming that if I do get the bored throttle body, I will surely get the msd ignition and/ or jet chip to recalibrate my system. After all, I will only be short a turbo on my motor as far as aftermarket upgrades are concerned to me. I could get a cam to change the lobe duration , but I want it to have more torque , as opposed to top end.
I read about the heavier harmonic balancer, and flywheel ring gear being able to spin the crank harder and faster to produce more power, but I hear it could rip the crank out of it's journals.
On another note, I saw a white sleeper International scout a few years back I am jealous of that chirped in 3rd gear. I would love to throw some real muscle under my jeeps hood. I know you would too.
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Don't waste your money. I tried one on a 4 cyl VW with very little improvement. I found a homemade (out of pvc pipe) ram air system to be more effective and very cheap!
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Allright, I will not buy it. I have had too much good advice given to me as a warning against buying it. Done.
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TALL BOY- GO ON E-BAY AND YOU CAN PICK UP A 4.0L TB FOR $30 - 50 BUCKS. I JUST GOT ONE FOR $45 WITH ALL THE SENSORS. YOU CAN PART OUT THE 4.0 SENSORS AND PROBABLY NET OUT FOR $10 -15. ALSO, THERE ARE A # OF VENDORS THAT HAVE 62MM TBS FOR $25-35. GO TO 'E-BAY MOTORS' AND SEARCH UNDER "JEEP THROTTLE BODY"
GOOD LUCK!
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all a heavy flywheel will do is keep the engine from stalling at low rpms and high load kinda releases the stored energy at the flip side it kills throttle response. Since it has to try and speed this much heavier mass up
It would be good for rock crawling and such or mud bogging to help keep you going.
Art
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i had the idea of hooking up my dads electric leaf blower to my 88 ford ltd with a inline 6.
i got the car for 200bucks when i was 16. a year later i got the idea to hook up the old leaf blower.
it was not very hard to find a place under the hood to put it. all i had to do was cut off the pipe as close to the electric motor as possible and i found a intake pipe off another junk car and fit it onto the leaf blower. i didn't worry about putting any kind of air filter on because it was a peace of crap. i just hooked the pos and neg wires strait to the battery and ran wires for the on/off switch into the cab.
the hard part was getting the timing right so i didn't kill the engine by pumping to much air in without enough gas.
i fixed that problem by using a door bell button.
i simply made the door bell the on switch. when i held it down the blower kicked on. i put it behind the gas peddle so when i floored it the blower kicked on.
it worked well......for like 10 minutes before the battery completely died.
for 5 or 10 minutes i experienced acceleration like a ford inline 6 had never seen.
i could burn off the tires and power brake. without the blower my 0-60 time was lucky to be 15 seconds. with the blower it was worse because i spent more time peeling out than i did accelerating.
i didn't want to buy a new battery or experiment with a higher output alternator because the car was not worth it. and it was just for fun. but i would be willing to say that the reason the E-turbo. is not made for more than 30 minutes is because it kills the battery. electric motors can run for hours and hours with the available power.
i would love to do some more experiments now that i am in my mid 20's but i don't have a car i am willing to sacrifice or the money to get the right battery and alternator.
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wow now thats the kind of fun shit i wish i could get away with doing....
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If you really want power out of a 4 banger supercharge it. Find a kit with a superchager and an intercooler roughly for your size engine have a good dynotune performance place recalibrate the ecm and then pray that your engine stays together. If built right it will haul but no lopy idle lots of torgue from the bottom up. You can either throw good money after bad or get serious and built the thing right. My little 2.4 is fine the way it is. But then if it dies I will shoe horn a PT cruiser turbo engine in it. Not only for the turbo though it has a nice strong bottom end its worth it for that alone. Also the extra kick on the freeway won't hurt mind you my little girl has no problem cruising at 80 mph and still gets decent milage.