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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: black99tj on November 02, 2006, 08:35:00 AM
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Has anyone bought the hack and tap SYE from Rubicon express? It's a lot cheaper, and I am thinking with a four cylinder the added strength of a new tail shaft is not that important to spend $150 more on. I believe with this SYE, a different type of drive shaft coupling is needed, similar to a ford. Any experience with this?
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ive heard that they tend to leak quite a bit....
go for the gusto, get the HD SYE....
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I've had mine for a couple years now, never had any problems with it.
How does it leak? It's a "hack and tap"...
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I havn't heard many complaints about them, mostly positive reviews. Those PORC HD SYE have been getting good reviews also, and those are relatively cheap. I know i've seen used hack & taps go for real cheap.
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ive heard that they tend to leak quite a bit....
Great job of posting what you 'heard' with facts to back it up. On a TJ, the H&T uses the stock rear output housing and seal, so it's no more likely to leak than the stock configuration.
I've had a H&T for a few years now, using a TJ mainshaft and tailhousing on my YJ's transfer case. No problems. Biggest weakness over a HD SYE is the stock TC mainshaft, and how often do those break?
You will need this: www.rockforddriveline.com/Shopping/R2-21-1229.asp to attach a shortened TJ or XJ front CV driveshaft to the RE H&T.
(http://www.rockforddriveline.com/Shopping/images/CntrAssyFY1.gif)
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Thanks for the information guys. Sounds like a good deal to me.
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Thanks for the information guys. Sounds like a good deal to me.
I would heavily consider the PORC HD SYE for $185 w/free shipping (http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?products_id=82&osCsid=380862ed05b60ebde067372bd51cfea7). By the time you do the H&T and buy the appropriate CV flange to mate to it, you're pretty close to the PORC price. Not to mention the HD SYE is an inch or two shorter than the H&T allowing for a longer driveshaft.
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I snapped the stock mainshaft in my transfer case, so I was forced to replace the shaft... I went with the JB SYE kit bacause the shaft is stronger. Only like $200...
From my experience, I would not do a hack and tap.
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What were you doing to break the mainshaft?
I've replaced one in another jeepers transfer case, and he was jumping the jeep so it is unusual.
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I am doing an Advance Adapters SYE with a Woods driveshaft today and will post pics when done.
(http://www.danasoft.com/sig/BinaryGeeks.jpg)
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What were you doing to break the mainshaft?
I've replaced one in another jeepers transfer case, and he was jumping the jeep so it is unusual.
I was climbing a huge hill er.. small mountain... hit some rock embeded in the face and compressed the rear HARD. Busted off a bumpstop, broke off the shock mount from the axle, and nearly $hat myself... :shock:
Here is a pic of my budies Rubi at the base:
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/mighty4banger/P3050370.jpg)
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hit some rock embeded in the face and compressed the rear HARD. Busted off a bumpstop, broke off the shock mount from the axle, and nearly $hat myself... :shock:
Rear driveshaft too long?
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It was more of the combo of losing the bumpstop and full compression of the rear suspension.... sunk it deep.
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We finished my friends SYE & Woods Drive shaft today and here are some pictures we took during the process. As a complete kit it's Cost was $525 from Tom Woods.
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/HD4X4/Nuts%20and%20Bolts/SYE%20Conversion/PB030388.jpg)
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/HD4X4/Nuts%20and%20Bolts/SYE%20Conversion/PB030391.jpg)
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/HD4X4/Nuts%20and%20Bolts/SYE%20Conversion/PB030393.jpg)
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/HD4X4/Nuts%20and%20Bolts/SYE%20Conversion/PB030394.jpg)
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/HD4X4/Nuts%20and%20Bolts/SYE%20Conversion/PB030389.jpg)
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/HD4X4/Nuts%20and%20Bolts/SYE%20Conversion/PB030395.jpg)
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/HD4X4/Nuts%20and%20Bolts/SYE%20Conversion/PB030396.jpg)
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/HD4X4/Nuts%20and%20Bolts/SYE%20Conversion/PB030397.jpg)
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PORC SYE and shortened front shaft run about $300 :shock:
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Hope you sealed the xfer case with anarobic sealer... RTV will squeeze ou and can starve the case for fluid.
I pulled mine and re-sealed b/c I used RTV... There was RTV stuck in the filter screen.
You can get anaroic sealer at NAPA... The way it works is that it only dries w/o oxygen.
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I read that in a mag once and I think it's mostly hype, as they're sealed with RTV from the factory, thousands of transfer cases. Chances of RTV blocking the pickup screen are close to nil.
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Aren't you same guy that said main shaft breaks were rare? - JK :lol:
For $15 I did not want to take a chance - all depends on how much you apply. Too much and it does ooze out.
I think we saw the same article - was it in JP?
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of course if you put the improper amount of RTV you can have issues, just dont be dumb lol.
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Even when the RTV squeezes to the inside, it generally stays intact and does not make it to the pickup tube. And I'm that same guy, never to take word for gospel just because it's printed in a rag :wink:
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I am doing an Advance Adapters SYE with a Woods driveshaft today and will post pics when done.
On a 4 cylinder YJ? I only ask because I'm doing the same thing over break and would like to have a ballpark driveshaft length when I call to order (the length to give to Tom Woods..not the overall ). I'd measure myself, but we have 1/2 a foot of snow on the ground :roll:
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I would have to go with might4banger, a sye from JB conversions is hard to beat for price and reliability. They have Super SYE if you need it.
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there is a alumn sealer that is supposed to be used on the 231 but if you look in the service manuals for different years, chrysler recommends rtv for some and alumn sealer for others and they all run the same case. i recommend the alum sealer but the guy next to me uses rtv and neither of us has ever seen problems.