4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: chrisfranklin on December 19, 2006, 07:51:02 PM
-
Ordered 6 bottles of "0W 20" Mobil 1 Sythetic from Autobarn. Needed to do an oil change and thought I'd experiement with this oil used in hybrid autos.
It's hard to find at Walmarts, autoparts stores, apparently. JiffyLube type places generally don't carry it. I wasn't in to wasting a Saturday trying to find the stuff locally, so I spent 6.95 shipping and ordered a 6 pack online.
The 0W20 is supposed to flow almost like water and is designed for engines, typically hybrid, with extremely tight cylinder/cylinder wall tolerances. Cold startup flow rate and general efficiency (performance, MPG) are supposedly the best in existance. Used in hybrids because those engines will usually start-up and shut down several times even during the course of a short drive in the city.
Not exactly an oil designed for high heat environments. Will probably use this 0W20 during the fall/winter monthes in So Cal and then back to 5W30 or 10W40 during the summer monthes when I might be on desert OHV trails. Then again, I may be a little too conservative and find that the 0W20 is more than usable in the little 4banger, year-around, regardless of outside temp, trail crawling, etc. Then again, I may find that the 0W20 is so light that my normally solid gaskets get upset with me and start weeping oil :cry: :lol:
-
Dude! I was running 10-30 Mobil 1 and my valve train noise got worse on my high mileage 4banger the engine, the slop was to much and the stuff just pushed out to fast (like water). I found a case of Mobile 1 20-50 at Walmart which turned out to be the perfect match for my over 100K engine. I also noticed more power after running Mobile 1 for while plus it cleaned the engine really good compared to conventional oils. Watch your oil pressure at idle when the engine is hot, mine was dropping down to like 10 which worried me running 10-30
-
Mine might be a very short-term experiment with 0W20, Mark :lol:
I notice noise at startup in cold conditions here in the Los Angeles area. Lately the weather at night and early morning has been in the 30s-40sF. Once everything is warmed up, any valvetrain noise disappears - think I am running Mobil 1 "5W40" now.
Wanted to try an oil that flowed super-fast to help prevent startup wear in the cold; also didn't mind that this oil would probably allow the engine to rev more freely. But, if the engine starts running rougher, Ill pull the 0W20 in favor of a heavier Mobil 1.
-
No negative effects from running the 20-50? I was contemplating the same thing for similar reason once spring comes around. Too cold here for the thick stuff in the winter I'm guessing.
-
Just having a synthetic coating your moving parts will reduce startup wear, synthetic lubricates much better and that maybe why people experience more oil leaks when they switch to it.
-
Finally changed the oil. Had been on a trip to San Diego and returned a few days ago and the 6 quarts of 0W20 had arrived.
I was expecting that once I did the change from 10W30 Synthetic to 0W20 Synthetic, I'd hear a bunch of engine noise I hadn't heard before - valve clatter, etc because the oil would be too light.
But, I didn't really experience any new noise - if anything, the engine seemed slightly quieter at all RPMs. Did seem to rev more smoothly, better throttle response, felt like it was working against itself less, etc.
But, the most pronounced change with the 0W20 was obviously at cold startup. You turn the ignition key after the Jeep has been sitting in the cold all night and the engine comes to life like it was already warm and at around 210F - this even though the temp guage shows the engine is still cold. Am under the impression that most engine wear occurrs at start-up and start-up is looking pretty good, now, for this engine
About the only gripe I can see with this oil is finding it at a local retailer - Walmart, autoparts places, etc. Most don't carry it and they are not exactly selling it, yet, in those big econo jugs.
Note: I am using 5 quarts of the 0W20 since I am using the M301 oil filter which is larger than the standard filter. Also using one of those BearTrap deals to catch any metal.
-
BearTrap? I'm not familiar with that..... :?:
-
Here's a "Bear Trap" link :!:
http://www.funreports.com/fun/05-12-2006/1442-condom-0
-
Also using one of those BearTrap deals to catch any metal.
BearTrap is just one of those magnet attachment deals that you put on your oil filter so that any metal particles in the oil get pulled out of the flow. Probably do as well using cheap ceramic magnets from Radio Shack. :lol:
Bear Trap: https://secure.webcnx.com/thebeartrap/shoppingcart/scripts/
-
Chris, how is the oil pressure at idle when the engine is good and hot?
-
See it's running at "60" psi. Not a real change from before, but will keep tabs on it.
-
Here's a "Bear Trap" link :!:
Funny Guy.....
-
That link came up when I was searching for the Bear Trap company on Google. Ouch! The "Jackass" people ought to find a way to test that thing out for people's viewing pleasure :lol:
-
:baby: :baby:
-
you can get that oil at the dealers i'm not sure on price but it is mobile one, it is used in the crd motors
-
So, I am using this 0W20 stuff now, I have to admit it is nice. The oil seems like it circulates instantaneously, etc.
However, I was doing some reading which suggested that 20W oil used to be used on new engines to help cause slight metal-to-metal contact between pistons and cylinder walls, essentially breaking the engine-in. This is not such a big deal with newer engines that have tighter cylinder clearances. However, the old Jeep 2.5 is likely no poster-child for tight cylinder clearances
As such, I might stick with the 0W20 for 5-10,000 miles, but at the next change go to a 0W30/5W30 or higher to put a little more lubricant between the pistons and cylinder walls. May even give the Amsoil Synthetics a go (since this is supposedly a true synthetic and not derived from forms of petroleum, unlike Mobil 1 or Castrol)
Note: Course, some say that modern 0W20 synthtic is a different breed from the old 0W20 break-in oils: it flows great, takes the high heat, doesn't get to thick at temperature, thus minimizing drag. Still a very thin oil, but no metal to metal occurs This 20W "engine-wear" issue seems to be an ongoing argument on some boards out there, typically ford mustang, race car sites.
-
Send in a sample of your oil for an analysis, that will tell you if it is truely too thin. I think you will be fine though.