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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Hockey1 on January 30, 2007, 01:38:57 AM
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hi folks, new to the forum. quick question. i have a 90 yj 2.5. i just had a new water pump put on. the mechanic said that i should change the heater core cause the fluid was nasty. (just bought it, it had sat in storage for 2-3 years) i told him that it threw alotta heat.
well, drove it home in 15 degree weather ( 4-5 miles) freezing my ass off! it has no heat at all. the engine was really hot, like it had an air bubble. tried to burp it. nothing. reverse flushed the heater core back and forth till water ran clear. still no heat. im getting a new t-stat in the morning. what else should i look for, i even bypassed the heater core altogether, to see if it was blocked. still ran hot. im sure its something simple. sorry its so long.
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try thermostat, now that you bypasses the heater core you will get absolutely no heat at all man. report back what happens with new t stat
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Sounds like a stat to me too.
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You need to make sure all of the vacuum lines going to the heater controls are working. If not you don't you won't get any flow through the heater core.
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have you put your hands on the hoses runnign to and from the heater core to see if coolant is actually flowing into the core?
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the hoses feel warm but not hot. its going to get flushed in the morning at a radiator shop. its still about 15 degrees outside and i dont have access to a garage. im gonna have them flush out everything. i bought a 180 t-stat, do you think that will help at all with performance. or should i stick with 195?
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Wait so what's the problem? Is the engine overheating? You say it runs hot, but what does that mean? Is it getting up to operating temperature? What does the temp gauge read is the big question?
What I'm now wondering is if it's cold enough to have the radiator too efficient at the temp. If that's the thermostat won't help and could cause other problem to mask the existing one. Might have to cover the grill to allow for the engine to heat up and be hot enough to run the heater.
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old trick is boil some water, put it in a container, and tie the thermostat to the end of the string and put the thermostat into the hot water and see if it is opening with the hot water after some ten minutes goes by. Take it back out of the water and let it cool to see if it is closing too.
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sorry if i wasnt clear. it started with no heat. so i flushed the heater core, still no heat. thats when i noticed it was overheating, hissing, boiling noises, lots of steam. the gauge doesnt work so i dont know the temp. it seems like its blocked internally somewhere, maybe the new water pump is bad? if i let it idle for 5-10 minutes it gets HOT! i didnt know if it was the head gasket or what. guessing gets expensive!
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if your water pump is working,water will be flowing through the radiator. Take off the cap,turn the motor on and let the engine idle, when the thermo opens the coolant will flow through if there is proper circulation. Coolant will leak out the radiator fill mouth until the thermo opens though so do not be surprised to see it leaking for a little bit. It'll steam too. It should take around 15-25 minutes at idle for the coolant to flow though so have a smoke while you wait. It should flow from passenger side to driver side. milky oil will be a head gasket, and weird colored smoke. the exhaust will smell different too.
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well i took it to a radiator shop where they flushed everything. found the problem. cracked block! he said that there was pipe dope filling it in. i know this sounds crazy, but i only put less than 50 miles on it since june. that was getting it back and forth to the garage. he said he didnt notice it till after the flush.
i can honestly see me going to jail, if i had the guy i bought this from in front of me , i would wig out!
so if anyone is interested in buying it let me know. i dont have the money for an engine swap.
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Ouch. Small claims court can get up to $5,000 in California. Do it.
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he said that there was pipe dope filling it in.
whats a pipe dope filling?.. im probably just being stupid in asking this but im curious.
ouch that sucks... if it was a few months down the road i might have been swamping out my motor anyways and i could give it to you... but im not there yet.
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ow i see. its that stuff used to make stuff leak free.. that cheap son of a.....
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i gave it some thought and im thinking of selling the ax-5. and just saving up for a 6 cylinder. with a matching tranny. im just physically ill thinking about this.
all i know is that i live in a very small town, ill see him eventually!
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it's always better to keep it in the courtroom.
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This whole mess sounds very strange to me, you may want a 3rd opinion. Does the mechanic actually know where the crack is and how did he find it? Usually you need to magnaflux in order to find cracks. I don't understand how someone could seal a cracked block with pipe dope either? I have been a mechanic for 30 years and have never heard anything like this one! I have seen pipe dope used on the heater hose fitting which comes off the water pump. The block & head are cast iron and can stand a few overheats. Your area does sound very cold which could cause coolant to freeze in the block possibly cracking it but that is what freeze plugs are there to prevent. Was the thermostat maybe installed backwards, could the mechanic have screwed up and not being honest about it :?
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the rad guy told me he flushed out the system and still overheated. he said he did a compression test and thats when he found the dope and the crack. he said its very noticable. and very large. ill take pics when i get it back home here. the guy i bought it from told me that it had been rebuilt. the rad guy said that all of the freeze plugs were new. all i know is that im out of an engine.
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Sounds like the block may have cracked from freezing since all the freeze plugs are new. Engines are not hard to find it's the work to install if you need to pay someone to do work. I just new factory short blocks on ebay going for $400 can you do the work yourself? All would need a $40 engine stand from Harbor Freight and rent a cherry picker when your ready to do the swap. If you have a garage you can construct a hoist with a 4X6 and couple 4x4's and a come along.
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do you think 450 is to much? i found a 2.5 out of a 95 yj. it comes with a 90 day warranty. they said that the engine can be seen running, and that they guarrantee against leaks, knocks and pings. but the guy said that ill have to do major mods so that it will work in my 90. is that true?
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you will need a new ecu and wire ring harness in your jeep.. because 1990 and older has tbi fuel injection and 91 and newer 2.5l have mpi fuel injection which used totally different ecus and wiring harness. but mpi does give you more power . but its alot of work to put in new ecu and wiring harness.
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You'll need a LOT more then a PCM and harness. You'll want to grab everything from the engine, harness, sensors, exhaust manifold, as well as the fuel line down the frame and the gas tank. It would also be good to get the harness to the transfer case (VSS) and you will probably want the harness behind the dash as well as both gauge pods. It's a lot of work but there is no fabrication and You will gain 12hp over your stock engine. Not to mention get slightly better gas mileage.