4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: chrisfranklin on February 11, 2007, 04:39:49 AM
-
Searched around here and found a few posts on cheap ways to accomodate larger tires.
I've seen the JP magazine piece where they managed to shoe-horn 35" tires on an unlifted TJ by performing major surgery on the body. You can pull off big tires on a TJ, no lift, if you are willing to get aggressiv with the Sawzall.
Here's my question: On a YJ, you think you could squeeze in some more modest 32's without a suspension lift by doing a 1" shackle lift, 1" poly body lift, TJ flares and some reasonable fender-trimming? Would these 32s work on the stock 15x7 factory steel wheels?
-
if you get rims with diff. back spacing you will probably be good, but with stock ris i believe you will be pushing it. but with the 2"inches of lift, and a lot of trimming i see no reason why the 32's wouldnt fit.
-
other than backspacing they should fit with the tj flares and 2 inches of lift.
-
I don't think wheel backspace is the way to go. All that will do is help keep teh front wheels from rubbing at full lock. You can correct that by turning the steering stops. Although, you will want to run a 32x11.5R15 on an 7" or 8" wide wheel. Keep in mind that in CA you don't want your tires sticking out. Some LEO's don't care while others are very picky and will ticket you. As for 32's, you could fit them if you do some trimming and convert to TJ flares.
When I ran 32's I had 3" and then 4.25" of lift. I used it all and with 3.75" BS, my tires rubber the stock flares but cleared everything without touching the stops. The tires were about 4-5" past the flares. Lift shackles of 1" will change the front end geometry and give you less caster which is bad and could cause wander. It will also raise the front pinion and that will mess up the U-joint angle for the worse since the two yokes won't be in phase anymore. You could shim the axles back with degree shims which would correct the problems listed above. Honestly, I'd rather run some beafy 31 MT's then some mild 32's, especially, if you're looking to get some oversized car tires.
-
I run factory 15x7 5-spokes off of an XJ with my 31's and they do rub the springs at full lock but otherwise fit without much else... the side lugs of my BFG MT's just barely stick out past the flares maybe 1/2". I for one wouldn't want to run bigger than my 31's without gears to get the RPM's back up there :biggrin:. Living on my budget means keeping away from the snow-ball effect of going to bigger tires. But with TJ flares(or tube fenders) I would/will be awfully tempted to try bigger!
-
Honestly, I'd rather run some beafy 31 MT's then some mild 32's, especially, if you're looking to get some oversized car tires.
The Revos are basically street tires classified as AT. But, da$% they are good - don't know if its the tread pattern, compound or what
Still, I could see doing some 31" Mickey Thomson Bajas. I've used BFG before, but it was just their "Long Trail" model and those were pretty awful in every condition. Perhaps the MTs are better
-
I'd look at some real tires. :blbl: BFG KO AT's are good tires and will last a long time (4-60K Miles or more) while still being a good offroad tire. If you want a more agressive look but still want good tread wear then look at the KM's. Long trails are working truck tires and are designed for load carrying on a work truck. MickeyT's Baja's won't wear as good as the BFG's and most of their line are bias belted. Revo's are street tires.
On the upper end, there are the Goodyear MTR's. These are not MT's. They work quite well on and do very well offroad. Toyo's are supposed ot be good too BUT they are large tires and I don't think they have anything under 33" and no less then 13.5" wide.
-
Yeah, I probably can't go wrong with 31" BFG MTs. So what do you say to fit those
-TJ flares, cut the body?
-small shackle lift & 1" body lift?
I'd run the stock 15x7 factory wheels and I am already using 1.25 inch aluminum spacers all around, so there's no rubbing on the springs
-
Yeah, I probably can't go wrong with 31" BFG MTs. So what do you say to fit those
-TJ flares, cut the body?
-small shackle lift & 1" body lift?
I'd run the stock 15x7 factory wheels and I am already using 1.25 inch aluminum spacers all around, so there's no rubbing on the springs
With spacers you should be fine on the BS. That would be around 4.25" BS which is a good number. You could do TJ flares, 3/4" shackle and or a body lift. If you did all three, that will give you a lot of room without putting all your eggs in one basket so to speak. You shouldn't have steering or driveline issues since you've spread the lift around. Since 31's can fit on a stock YJ you could even run them as is then see where you need to clearance them. If you did all three you'd be pretty well set up. With good tires and the locker, you should be ready for most trails out there.
-
My buddy has a stock YJ with stock flares some wider american racing wheels and 32 by 11.5 A/T's , will rub every so often but he hasnt had any issues at all, no lift as far as I know, he bought the Jeep this way.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v254/MonsterTamiyauy/IMG_0138.jpg)
-
JeepManMarc, so that Jeep YJ in the photo is the friend's Jeep you mentioned - the one running the 32's, no-lift?
-
Yes, at full flex it will rub the flares slightly but not enough to cause any harm as of yet and we have been wheeling it pretty hard. If it were mine and I wanted to stay with 32's I would probably do a 2 inch lift because it would look a little better, but as it sits it functions just fine.
-
Yes, at full flex it will rub the flares slightly but not enough to cause any harm as of yet and we have been wheeling it pretty hard. If it were mine and I wanted to stay with 32's I would probably do a 2 inch lift because it would look a little better, but as it sits it functions just fine.
I assume that's with the trackbar and the swaybar still on. I can see the tell tail sign of the tires rubbing the flares and that's not a lot of room there. I know I was rubbing the flares with 3" of lift and the trackbars plus the swaybars still on. Take them off and the tire really rubs the flares and eats the fender.
-
If you are worried about power, get the turbo, do an engine swap, or lower geared tranny/differential. I have seen rubicons w/ 35's have a top speed of 65 with stock gears. I know I can do alot with 31" tires and skid plates from experience, 33 and 35's will do the hardcore stuff, I have done hairy stuff with 30's too. If I get a turbo, or regear to 4:56 I will get 31's or the interco 32x10.50x15's and stop there. Too much meat on the tires takes away the power fast. Aluminum rims are not as strong as steel, but i have done some hillacious stuff on them without problems other than scratches, and aluminum gives back alot of power lost to turning those steelies. Steelies take alot to get to momentum speed, and keep the momentum going better than aluminum do, but I am unsure if it is enough to matter. I noticed a big difference switching to aluminum rims though.
-
dunno marc, from the pictures, they dont look like stock jeep shackles, i kno its hard as hell to see but look closely, maybe has a small shackle lift, if not like jeffy said thats with track and sway bars. with them installed a yj will barely flex.
-
dunno marc, from the pictures, they dont look like stock jeep shackles, i kno its hard as hell to see but look closely, maybe has a small shackle lift, if not like jeffy said thats with track and sway bars. with them installed a yj will barely flex.
Those look to be the stock stamped shackles. With that little room between the tires and fenders, it can't be lifted. My Jeep was a bit tight even with 32's and 3" lift.
-
Im almost positive the shackles are stock, I am wondering if this jeep has a rear dana44 and possibly a front, neither one look identical to the axles on my TJ, the front appears to have larger shafts but they may get thinner where they go through the bearing iand into the housing. I dont know axles well enough to tell at a glance. It does have all the factory sway and trac bars still in place, without them it would rub like crazy.
-
ok well once again proved wrong by jeffy :brick: ok i thought i saw a curve in the shackles figure maybe a set of boomerangs or something but nope jeffy was and is pretty much always right :'(
-
ok well once again proved wrong by jeffy :brick: ok i thought i saw a curve in the shackles figure maybe a set of boomerangs or something but nope jeffy was and is pretty much always right :'(
Hahah, I can spot those ugly stock shackles from a mile away! :dance: I went back to running them in the back after I raised my T-case up.
Im almost positive the shackles are stock, I am wondering if this jeep has a rear dana44 and possibly a front, neither one look identical to the axles on my TJ, the front appears to have larger shafts but they may get thinner where they go through the bearing iand into the housing. I dont know axles well enough to tell at a glance. It does have all the factory sway and trac bars still in place, without them it would rub like crazy.
I have to say that the axles look stock. It has stock bolt patterns. You can see how tight the pattern is around the center cap. Installing a 44 front would involve a lot of work unless it was a Rubicon D44 and even that has a lot of extra bits on it that would make it stand out on a YJ. I'm gonna say, it's all stock except for the tires and the aftermarket AR Gambler wheels.
-
The last run I was on I saw this guy with 31s and a rear locker get high-centered and tow-strapped off. Another guy with 33's and rear locker managed to scrape through ok.
I know as soon as I go 31s I am going to bite off more than I can chew, get high-centered and kick myself for not doing 33s. From what I've read, I think you can scrape and squeeze through the hardest trails in Southern California with 33s - this is on, for example, The "Sledge" and "Jack-hammer" Trails a bit east of the OC/San Diego area (as long as you are locked front and rear and have a winch)
But, of course a smart move to 33s means lift, axle swap, regear, new wheels, & drivetrain work. All that would easily run me $5,000+. I may have to be a bit more conservative and go 31s, something I can do for probably less than $1000 and just be selective with the trails (and/or borrow somebody elses Rubicon "King" and drive Sledgehammer with that instead :lol:)
-
The last run I was on I saw this guy with 31s and a rear locker get high-centered and tow-strapped off. Another guy with 33's and rear locker managed to scrape through ok.
I know as soon as I go 31s I am going to bite off more than I can chew, get high-centered and kick myself for not doing 33s. From what I've read, I think you can scrape and squeeze through the hardest trails in Southern California with 33s - this is on, for example, The "Sledge" and "Jack-hammer" Trails a bit east of the OC/San Diego area (as long as you are locked front and rear and have a winch)
But, of course a smart move to 33s means lift, axle swap, regear, new wheels, & drivetrain work. All that would easily run me $5,000+. I may have to be a bit more conservative and go 31s, something I can do for probably less than $1000 and just be selective with the trails (and/or borrow somebody elses Rubicon "King" and drive Sledgehammer with that instead :lol:)
For any of the Hammers you better have a minimum of 35" tires... I'd do the said lift above and then eventually tuck the transfer case up. That will gain you some more clearance. Anything more and you might as well go with a SOA and you'd be fine reusing all the above for 35-37's.
-
ok well once again proved wrong by jeffy :brick: ok i thought i saw a curve in the shackles figure maybe a set of boomerangs or something but nope jeffy was and is pretty much always right :'(
Hahah, I can spot those ugly stock shackles from a mile away! :dance: I went back to running them in the back after I raised my T-case up.
Im almost positive the shackles are stock, I am wondering if this jeep has a rear dana44 and possibly a front, neither one look identical to the axles on my TJ, the front appears to have larger shafts but they may get thinner where they go through the bearing iand into the housing. I dont know axles well enough to tell at a glance. It does have all the factory sway and trac bars still in place, without them it would rub like crazy.
I have to say that the axles look stock. It has stock bolt patterns. You can see how tight the pattern is around the center cap. Installing a 44 front would involve a lot of work unless it was a Rubicon D44 and even that has a lot of extra bits on it that would make it stand out on a YJ. I'm gonna say, it's all stock except for the tires and the aftermarket AR Gambler wheels.
Are those Gambler wheels worth anything? I am wondering about putting my 31's on them and slapping them on my TJ.
-
Are those Gambler wheels worth anything? I am wondering about putting my 31's on them and slapping them on my TJ.
Only if you like those wheels. They are maybe worth $5-75 each. Hopefully he has all 5 since they have been discontinued.
-
Was getting a little exercise this morning and came across an 18 wheeler flatbed trailor that three Military H1s on it. So I stop and look at these H1s up close.
Sure enough, the Military H1s are running BFG M/Ts "Miltary OZ" in 37."
-
If you want to get some cheap boomerang shackles, this guy sells them for $20 a pair. Don't come painted or with bolts, but a nice way to get a little lift and allow the shackles to stop hitting the bumpers. Seems to do good work, he's cutting the rock rings for my new rims.
http://copperheadfab.com/index.php?action=catview&cat=Boomerang%20Shackles
-
Was getting a little exercise this morning and came across an 18 wheeler flatbed trailor that three Military H1s on it. So I stop and look at these H1s up close.
Sure enough, the Military H1s are running BFG M/Ts "Miltary OZ" in 37."
You do not want to run those tires. They are extremely stiff and not DOT. They are also 16" wheels.
-
Was getting a little exercise this morning and came across an 18 wheeler flatbed trailor that three Military H1s on it. So I stop and look at these H1s up close.
Sure enough, the Military H1s are running BFG M/Ts "Miltary OZ" in 37."
You do not want to run those tires. They are extremely stiff and not DOT. They are also 16" wheels.
16.5" wheels I used to run one of the 36" Hummer goodyears as a spare on my last jeep (which ran recentered Military Hummer rims) you could run it with no air it was so stiff.
-
Was getting a little exercise this morning and came across an 18 wheeler flatbed trailor that three Military H1s on it. So I stop and look at these H1s up close.
Sure enough, the Military H1s are running BFG M/Ts "Miltary OZ" in 37."
You do not want to run those tires. They are extremely stiff and not DOT. They are also 16" wheels.
16.5" wheels I used to run one of the 36" Hummer goodyears as a spare on my last jeep (which ran recentered Military Hummer rims) you could run it with no air it was so stiff.
Damn! I was looking for this thread to correct it but got tied up on some other threads... :'(