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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: lanulos89 on February 24, 2007, 08:16:57 PM
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ok so about a month or two ago, my jeep started to hic up BAD. wehn i was accelerating it would just backfire and well hicup, like it wanted to stall or something. i ended up finding a bad plug wire and replaced that, and still did it. took off the dist cap and the electrode on the rotor was completely black so replaced that and the cap and it was good. also in the process my brother(ford mechanic) told me to do the fuel pressure regulator, but that did nothing but waste 65 bucks. well now its doing it again, not bad but it is deff happening. any ideas b/c i am dumbfounded?
:brick:
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lanulos,
I am definitely not a expert so that's why you'll get my guesses. My neighbor had a similar problem with his stratus. The wire to his CPS had a loose connection that would only show up when he drove it for a while. He used some aluminum foil at the connector to tighten it. He trouble shot that one for a several months.
When I changed out my ignition to the PD stuff it seems to resolve a lousy idle problem I had. When I pulled the coil wire I noticed that the coil side had gotten moisture to it at some point. Here in Seattle we get our fair share of rain and I love to barrel through puddles. I have gotten the check engine light after a couple of those and reset the PCM to clear it. It would definitely do the hicup thing then.
I think the PD was a good upgrade but definitely not light on the wallet. Good luck.
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ran seafoam through the intake gas etc. did nothing. i need more idea people, im stumped and its not stopping.
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Did you try to recover any error codes in the PCM yet? That's always priority #1. If it doesn't tell you wan'ts wrong specifically, it will give you a general area to look.
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throws No codes!!!! thats why im effing fed up with the effing thing. whole igniton from coil to plugs is fine. i have no ideas, fuel injectors/ filter????????? tps???????. cps????
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throws No codes!!!! thats why im effing fed up with the effing thing. whole igniton from coil to plugs is fine. i have no ideas, fuel injectors/ filter????????? tps???????. cps????
TPS will throw a code usually. CPS will too. Fuel filter won't. I'm not sure if the Injectors will either.
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ran seafoam through the intake gas etc. did nothing. i need more idea people, im stumped and its not stopping.
I realize you did this to solve the problem. Could doing this kill the O2? I would think a code be thrown though.
Maybe take off the TB and really give it a good cleaning. Might discover something. cheap try anyway.
Did you reset your computer at any point? Could it have learned something stupid and is causing the problem? Especially when you found the bad wire and stuff on your rotor. Keep trying.
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The fuel filter would be a good cheap thing to replace. After that, maybe check the fuel pump.
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the stuff is o2 sensor safe, i have reset my computer on many ocassiions, i never tried looking in the tb, i guess its worth a shot, ill do it morow at class. so fa no1 has any ideas, if only it was obdII
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When does it do it? Under load? Only when it is hot? When cold only? Both hot and cold? when a pretty girl walks by :hitit: ?
is the air filter clean? is the throttle body clean? how bout that butterfly valve?
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Resetting the PCM will not do any damage. It will throw up a code since the battery will have to have been disconnected. A Failing O2 sensor will through up a code for sure but it will be subtle. The TPS will make the engine run like crap and cause a code immediately. If the AIS motor is bad the engine won't idle right when it starts and will die if you're not on the throttle a bit. You should be able to hear the fuel pump prime with the ignition on ON. A guess would be the CPS. Unplug it and see if it throws a code or shows any difference. You could use the same technique for the other sensors.
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I had all sorts of problems with my engine when I had the rear-most bolt on my exhaust manifold shear off and cause a minor exhaust leak. I had a hard time finding this exhaust manifold problem and it took a bunch of mechanics observing and one putting weight on the intake manifold to finally diagnose the leak. It never crossed my mind that the exhaust could be the cause of the engine's operating trouble, emissions difficulties.
I don't want to knock the PaceSetter Exhaust (course 1 or 2 of those have been known to leak), but if their are leaks anywhere from the manifold/header on back, that might be causing you a backfire problem. It might also be caused by a leak on the intake side of the equation, but that's probably less likely and probably easy to spot, too.
If the fuel filter doesn't do it (and I kind of doubt it will) maybe check out the exhaust, get a friend to lean on the intake manifold, do the soap bubble and water deal. Good luck.
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A writeup I read said that during the seafoam process one would be able to find exhaust leaks. The guy wrote that the excess liquid would seep through the gaps. He even had pics where it had leaked on the ground and above. Did you check around to see if there are leak marks. The artical was on TJ Technical forum under Seafoam Mister I think.
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.mine will do it mainly in third gear and up if you hold the throtlle steady say at 3500 rpms it will hick up or even seem like you are turning on and off the gas to the motor as quick as you can.
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http://www.sierrajeep.com/trouble.htm
^that xplains it all chris
well went out the jeep at school,went to start it cranks slow as hell. so i think its the battery, of course being at school no access to a jump pack, i had picked up a battery from ford where my bro works the night before, was a perfect battery for a diesel, i just forgot to take it out the night before. so i hooked up jumper cables to both batteries turned it same thing slow, took out big 'ole hammer and wacked the starter a few times and started right up. so i guess i need the jeep to start before i can worry about the hic up, too bad i dont have money for a starter, so for now ill just wack the starter when it acts up. jeep=money pit
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In older jeeps a high speed miss was associated with a bad coil. You may want to check coil and coil wires.
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ok its back, only happens when its above 50 outside, if that makes sence???????????
im thinking about changing out my coil, but not sure. now the jeep has also developed a BAD miss, so i assume its the timing, but jeep you cant adjust timing. could my timing chain of stretched?? i dont know what else to do, its not like i can scan random parts like OBDII so im about to just start changing random parts..
please help
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ok its back, only happens when its above 50 outside, if that makes sence???????????
im thinking about changing out my coil, but not sure. now the jeep has also developed a BAD miss, so i assume its the timing, but jeep you cant adjust timing. could my timing chain of stretched?? i dont know what else to do, its not like i can scan random parts like OBDII so im about to just start changing random parts..
please help
So did you even try to recover any codes? (*echo*) Not all codes will cause the CEL to turn on but all of them will be stored.
Timing is controlled by the CPS which I mentioned earlier.
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ive tried codes more time than you guys would like to kno i never tested the sensors, yet. but wtf would a sensor work right and not right during different temperatures?
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Hey man, my 98 TJ is having the same issue, it only happens during acceleration and only occasionally like once a day it will pop a backfire and only when hot. I have just swapped the throttle body with a 4.0L keeping only the original AIS, new wires, new plugs, new exhaust/intake gasket. I have a new coil, cap and rotor coming from performance distributors tomorrow. Also I have checked the computer for any error codes. If the ignition parts don't fix it I will do the fuel pressure checks and then the catalytic converter to see if it's starting to clog.
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Guardian,
You might also consider replacing back to the stock air filter. The low end is much better since I changed my rockit out for the stock. My idle also smoothed out. I have the PD setup and love it. Not a balls out change but definitly was worth my while.
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Coil problems are often related to temperature. Your last observation on this makes it even more likely. Good luck zeroing in on it.
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coil replaced still no luck. so its safe to assume its not having anything to do with ignition system since evrything is new. fuel rail pressure is fine, fuel pressure reg. is new so my guess is injectors. maybe ill do the mustang 19lb injectors
cps is stealership only item??? autozone or any place like that doesnt seem to carry it??????
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I would go back to the stock Air Filter except the after-market AC unit is in the way making it a problem to mount the stock system. I may try to remount in a new location by building mount bracket for the filter box. Put the new coil, dist cap and rotor on today so now I need to drive it a few days to see if it cured the problem. My next mods will be the 4.0L tbs, jet chip, & electric fan which pretty much does it for the bolt on power mods without getting into any major engine work but I'm sure that will be coming later too.
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You also gapped the plugs to the .065 right. You will like it. :hitit:
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Also, try this: when you are getting drunk with your buddies out in the boonies, your gas tank filler tube is not a good urinal. :blbl:
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haha thanks guy plugs are gapped and nope havent pissed in mytank i have a locking cap jeep came with it, you think ill kow how to unlock it drunk haha
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:lol:
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You also gapped the plugs to the .065 right. You will like it. :hitit:
Does gapping the plugs at .065 help with it running rich? What is the benifit?
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so how do i test a CPS???
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You also gapped the plugs to the .065 right. You will like it. :hitit:
Does gapping the plugs at .065 help with it running rich? What is the benifit?
With the modified screemin demon coil you can run them at the higher gap. The standard coil does not have the ump to push the spark. The wider gap gives a larger spark and a more efficient burn of the gas dumped in. Suppose to mean less raw gas just passing through to the exhaust and more effective use of the gas sent in.
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so how do i test a CPS???
You'll need a multimeter I believe. Although you can quickly test it by disconnecting it and seeing if the engine even starts.
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how are you guys checking the codes? do all of you guys have a code reader? if not will you let me no how to read them or check them.mines kinda doing the same thing.no local mechanic shops around here has a code reader for my 92 i dont want to take it to the dealer thell charge a fortune.mine will do it mainly in third gear and up if you hold the throtlle steady say at 3500 rpms it will hick up or even seem like you are turning on and off the gas to the motor as quick as you can.
exactly !!!!! mine is doing that !!!! HELP ? What did you do the fix it ?
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we are still working on the problem, when we finally figure out the solution it will be shared with the world
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i just changed the o2 sensor. Seems to make a world of difference.
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my o2 is new doesnt do shit
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Okay my hicup is fixed! I believe it was a combination of 2 things but, I think it all started with the spark plugs. I had installed those Bosch Platinum +2 plugs a few weeks ago which is about when it started. After doing a bunch of Web research it seems a lot of Jeepers have tried fancy plugs like these and found their Jeeps run crappy. Putting in the hotter screamin deamon coil cured the problem which may have been created by using those fancy new plugs which by the way cannot be gapped because the ground electrodes are on the sides. So after some research on the Web the Jeep spark plugs most recommended seem to be the Champion Performance Truck Plug # 4412 which are the normal design you can gap. It is my belief now that the multiple electrode Bosch plugs require more power which creates more demand from the stock coil and it starts cutting out under load.
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n71/HD4X4/Nuts%20and%20Bolts/Ignition/plugsandgrease.jpg)
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i hav champion plugs now lol. plus its cold out so no sputter, maybe i just gootta move to anartica?
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I think Champions are made specifically for Chrysler/Jeep products. Auto Lite is Ford, Bosch is Chevy ?, and Nippenddenso is Nissan, and NGK is Toyota and I don't know the rest for Hyundai and KIA, and Daewoo, and etc...
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ok so apparently rain effects my jeeps performance, it hic ups more it the rain and stuters annd stuff.
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mine it still doing the same thing .... I am moving on to electrical, as it happens more when going over bumps.
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ok so apparently rain effects my jeeps performance, it hic ups more it the rain and stuters annd stuff.
Sounds like water or moisture in your ignition system someplace.
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That usually indicates the distributor cap or wires are getting wet and need replacing if rain causes it to spudder more which I have seen happen when steam rising off the hot exhaust gets into the dist cap or wires begin to arc to near by objects when wet but you cant rule out wiring either. Arcing wires can usually be seen when it's dark, try getting it wet at night then watching for arcs from the wires, cap, and coil areas in the dark.
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PROBLEM SOLVED. cheap auto zone parts suck, the rotor didnt fit snuggly on the distributor, whihc caused the timimg to be off, and me to spend like 250 in usless parts grrr but yay its fixed.
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:clap: :clap:.. good another jeep running good is an infinite number off good times added to the possibility's
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lanulos89,
What brand did you end up buying? I may replace cap, rotor and wires soon.
Thanks
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wen and bought stock oem from stealership, if you had the problems i was having you'd think it was worth it too. anyways i get discounts at jeep for being an auto student.
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Thanks. You are not alone doing this. I´ve heard from many who prefer to avoid problems this way.