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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: omnisi on February 26, 2007, 06:55:19 PM
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'99 TJ, susp lift, 33s, stock axles...
A guy I know has a Powertrax Lock-Right he will sell me for $100.00....good deal? Does anyone have an opinion on, or experience with, this locker?
He said the number on the box was #2210, which does reference for the '99 D30. What are your opinions on installing this on the front? Will it interfere with highway driving?
I do a lot of highway driving in my Jeep, and intend to do a lot more mud, sand, and trails...no mountains/rocks here in Florida.
I appreciate your thoughts and experience...
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lock rights go for like 250ish new so yea 100 is a good deal, but for the front i'd think you want a selectable lock. i just got a rear lock right for 125 from a friend. im not too sure someone will be along to help
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I use an Aussie D30 in the front (not currently locked in the rear). The alloy and design of the Aussie may be slightly different than the LockRite, but the Aussie basically functions the same.
The front Aussie is invisible on the highway, so I'd guess that the Lockrite would be the same, give the design similarity. The Aussie, however comes with a replacement warranty regardless of what tire size you are running. I don't think the Lock-Rite does and I've read that people have had gripes with breaking the Lockrites and a couple of gripes with noise (at least when running one in the rear).
D30 Aussie runs $230 at Northridge4x4.com. If you really want a Powertrax lunchbox-type locker, maybe you should try the higher-end Powertrax No-Slip. It tends to run $400, but is made of a tougher alloy and is supposedly quiet versus the standard Lockrite. I was considering one of the No-Slips for the rear end on mine, but may do another Aussie there, too.
So, buy your friend's $100 LockRite? Well, sure, $100 is better than the usual $250 sticker price. But, you've got a lot more non-carrier replacement locker choices on the market these days -Aussie, No-Slip, Detroit EZ - versus 5 or 10 years ago, when LockRite was the only game in town. And, you don't really need a selectable because you are in consistently warm country. I'd personally spend another $150 and get the Aussie in the front - I don't think I've heard of one person having a beef with it and the warranty may come in handy sometime :thumbsup:
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Thanks...I wanst even really shopping for a locker. he just happened to mention that he had one chaep.
If thats not the ideal front locker for a lot of pavement driving, as well as off-road, then maybe Ill pass...
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we have lock rights front and rear in our cj3a. they work good but do click allot on road.. used to have a lock right in the rear of our old 1/2 Chevy dessil truck. it clicked allot and never actually Brock but go close and we had to send it in 2 times before getting a different locker for it.
just my experience with them.... work good off road but on road is tough on them
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I believe the Powertrax was the first. Then a bunch of the guy's who worked on the Lock-Right jumped ship and joined with Tractech and made the EZ-Locker. There was then a lawsuit and a settlement. There is now several other variations but they are all basically the same so go with whichever is cheapest. For a cheap locker it should be a problem. Front applications of the Lock-Rights (and other lunchbox lockers) tend to last longer then in the back.
I doubt you'd feel the locker on road with a TJ, The locker will unlock in turns like normal. You don't ahve to worry about the front driveshaft like on YJ's since TJ's are designed to turn all the time anyway.
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Thanks...look at the note at the end of page 3. Will this be a prob on the TJ on the highway?
http://www.powertrax.com/jeep1lr.pdf
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Thanks...I wanst even really shopping for a locker. he just happened to mention that he had one chaep.
If thats not the ideal front locker for a lot of pavement driving, as well as off-road, then maybe Ill pass...
What is really nice about this entire thing is that you can install the locker in the driveway on a sunny afternoon. It's not difficult. You can remove the locker in the same afternoon if you didn't like it on the street drive. Simple. Basically the locker replaces the spider and side gears within the case. If you don't like it there, simple reinstall the side and spider gears.
I'd suggest that you use new springs and pins. These are the bread and butter of the locker. Any fatigue will make the locker misfunction - make noises, bang its teeth, lock-n-release, etc. Same for the case rod.
Too bad you are in Florida. I've got these type of lockers in my TJ and I drive it on the street. Only time it saw a trailer was when I had a broken rear axle (completely another story). The front locker is not noticeable as a locker. There are some steering influence but its like you are low air pressure. The spinning of the axle when turning is at different speeds. This places a very slight drag on the steering. If you didn't know there was a locker you would think you had low air pressure. Its nothing at all.
For a $100 and probably another $10 for the springs and pins with gear oil and gasket, I'd install it. If you don't like it, you would definately get your money back out of it on resale.
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If you pass on that $100 lockrite, pass on the contact info - I'll take it.
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Thanks...I wanst even really shopping for a locker. he just happened to mention that he had one chaep.
If thats not the ideal front locker for a lot of pavement driving, as well as off-road, then maybe Ill pass...
I'd suggest that you use new springs and pins. These are the bread and butter of the locker. Any fatigue will make the locker misfunction - make noises, bang its teeth, lock-n-release, etc. Same for the case rod.
It this necessary if the locker has never been installed? Its still in the box.
OK, I pass on the info if I dont get it.
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It this necessary if the locker has never been installed? Its still in the box.
OK, I pass on the info if I dont get it.
No new or NOS is still new. There is no wear on it. Since you said it's new, that makes it an even better deal.
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Course, for a hundred bucks brand new, why not? 8)
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Does it affect mileage in any way?
And, you guys are sure its OK to run this thing in front WITHOUT installing manual locking hubs? Just want to be sure! lol
Thanks,
Mark
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Does it affect mileage in any way?
And, you guys are sure its OK to run this thing in front WITHOUT installing manual locking hubs? Just want to be sure! lol
Thanks,
Mark
No more so then spinning your front driveshaft when you don't have to.
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One more question...
I dont know for sure what gears I have, but I think theyre 4.56. Will the lock right work with 4.11, 4.56, and 4.88s?
Also, Ive seen two different install guides. The one for the rear does not require the whole carrier to be removed, but all the ones Ive seen for the front D30 do require the whole carrier to be removed... anyone know for sure on the front?
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One more question...
I dont know for sure what gears I have, but I think theyre 4.56. Will the lock right work with 4.11, 4.56, and 4.88s?
Your gear ratio does not matter with a drop in locker, they take the place of the spider gears which are the same no matter what carrier you have. With some ratios you have to either file a tooth on the ring gear or use a notched cross shaft to get the cross shaft past the ring gear.
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Here is an inside picture of a differential. The ring gear is the gear sticking out. It is attached to the carrier. The carrier is also the backwards looking darkish colored 'C'. The bearing caps are on both sides of the carrier holding it in. Inside this 'C' is the side and spider gears. As the ring rotates, the carrier rotates. That rod directly in the center is the center pin. This is secured within the carrier by a holding bolt. The center pin rotates as the carrier rotates. The little gears at the top/bottom of the rod are called spider gears. These circulate around as the carrier rotates. They ciruculate on the side gears. The side gears are splined to the axles. Underneath the carrier in the picture, you can barely see gear teeth. This is the pinion. This is a low pinion axle D30. If it was a hi pinion, the pinion would be above the axle centerline.
Ring gear rotates over pinion. Carrier case rotates with ring gear. Center pin rotates with carrier. Spider gears spin on center pin transferring the rotation to the side gears. The side gears rotate, thus the axle shafts rotate.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d99/jagular7/Stuff/dana30wide.jpg)
If a locker was installed, ie. LockRight, it replaces the spider and side gears with another set of side gears that work with no spider gears but another 'carrier' which clamps onto the center pin. The center pin is the main component that transfer the ring rotation to the axle shafts.
Hope this helps.
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Thank you...would you beleive ive been working on and building CJs since 1990 and never changed a set of gears or installed a locker?
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Here is an inside picture of a differential. The ring gear is the gear sticking out. It is attached to the carrier. The carrier is also the backwards looking darkish colored 'C'. The bearing caps are on both sides of the carrier holding it in. Inside this 'C' is the side and spider gears. As the ring rotates, the carrier rotates. That rod directly in the center is the center pin. This is secured within the carrier by a holding bolt. The center pin rotates as the carrier rotates. The little gears at the top/bottom of the rod are called spider gears. These circulate around as the carrier rotates. They ciruculate on the side gears. The side gears are splined to the axles. Underneath the carrier in the picture, you can barely see gear teeth. This is the pinion. This is a low pinion axle D30. If it was a hi pinion, the pinion would be above the axle centerline.
Ring gear rotates over pinion. Carrier case rotates with ring gear. Center pin rotates with carrier. Spider gears spin on center pin transferring the rotation to the side gears. The side gears rotate, thus the axle shafts rotate.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d99/jagular7/Stuff/dana30wide.jpg)
If a locker was installed, ie. LockRight, it replaces the spider and side gears with another set of side gears that work with no spider gears but another 'carrier' which clamps onto the center pin. The center pin is the main component that transfer the ring rotation to the axle shafts.
Hope this helps.
Great explanation jag. I also have had questions lately as to how all of this works. :thumbsup:
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Thanks Jag. You just made me more dangerous. In a good way. That explaination was great.
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Jag, I gave you a +1 Karma for that.
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The guy dropped the price to $75...cant find a reason NOT to put it in now!
So, Ive decided "what the hell" and am going to put the lock-right in tomorrow. I really dont have enough 'hard core' off road rocks and such around here and dont have time to travel right now, and probably will never upgrade the rear D35 unless/until it breaks. So I really dont see a reason to spend a lot of cabbage on selectable, or high dollar lockers. When I have more time and want to get into more hard core off-road, then Ill go from there.
But for now, the locked front will help traction on the stuff I do get into around here. I have a few install links, but do you guys have any good, detailed D30 install links I can refer to as well?
Thanks again, I appreciate all of the replies/info
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For install to the front, you won't need to break the large nut on the end of the axle. Just undue the 3 star bolts (12mm IIRC) for the unit bearing, remove the caliper, rotor will come off, and pull. You may have to get a slide hammer to help pull the unit bearing off the rusty knuckle. You don't have to pull the axle all the way out of the tube, but it would be best. Debri could be in your tube.
Good luck. Down in FL its going to be bluster hot and scorching tomorrow. So protect yourself......no wait that's in a couple more months when we have it good here in the midwest. :lol:
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Thanks for the heads up...
Weather-wise...Im used to it. 50-60s here at night now. I grew up here...I usually NEVER put a full top on the Jeep. But, I spent 5 yrs in Maine....lots of fridgid atv and snowmobile rides...