4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Jesse-James on March 17, 2007, 04:59:54 PM
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OK, so I got the usual vibes and found the bad joint. Replaced it and the shaft side fits perfectly. Go to mount it up and the axle side is to narrow, there is a gap between the joint and the nubs it sits against on the outside. WTF???? I don't understand how this could be. 95 2.5 auto, stock shaft and turdy five axle. Joint was equal length on both sides, can't imagine it would be longer on the pinion side. Old one was too destroyed to tell.
(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i33/jlafaive/Trans/DSC01014.jpg)
(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i33/jlafaive/Trans/DSC01017.jpg)
(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i33/jlafaive/Trans/DSC01018.jpg)
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Yeah, that's not going to cut it. What U-joints did you buy?
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The pinion yoke looks bent in the pictures. Right side of the bottom 2 pictures.
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The pinion yoke looks bent in the pictures. Right side of the bottom 2 pictures.
Nope, not bent. I found my answer in part to some help on another forum. 94.5 and 95 have a different size yoke on the diff side that the shaft side. 1310 to 1330 adapter joint. I go to the part store looking for this and nobody carries it as it is a 1 year part. However we tested the theory that someone said on said forum, which was that Ford did the same thing in the 70's. So I had him look up a 78 Ford F250 and they had it in stock. Lined it up and it IS the same! I got my U-joint, learned something about Jeeps I did not know and spent quality Miller time in the garage. Today was a good day.
:clap:
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Good you figured it out, better go back and buy a spare. You'll find plenty of folks carrying an extra 1310 on the trail, but you'll be on your own with that joint.
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Plan on finding a spicer joint as a spare, dealer if I have to. This GMB crap will get me by for now.
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Hmm, so would it be better if he swapped the yoke for a 1310 then to run a combo U-joint? Does the combo U-joint add any strength and does that out weigh parts availability on the trail? :confused:
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Hmm, so would it be better if he swapped the yoke for a 1310 then to run a combo U-joint? Does the combo U-joint add any strength and does that out weigh parts availability on the trail? :confused:
If it were me I'd swap the yoke on the 35 and run a regular 1310. However, it's not like you break driveshaft joints ever day either. My big CJ had a Dana 60 with 1310 yoke/joint on it and I never broke either one through years of abuse.
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I'll (hopefully) be doing an 8.8 swap next year, so I don't think I'll be swapping the yoke. Ironically that means another screwy adapter joint. I'll definitely be carrying an extra from now on though.
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At least you got some Miller time in!!!
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Hey, someone noticed the important part of this story....... :beers:
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I had to buy the combo joint for my shortened XJ shaft. Luckily though i read that on another forum, so i didn't have any down time. I plan to swap to an 8.8 also sometime in the future also (keeping an eye out locally, missed a 4.88 geared 8.8 with lsd for 300 2 months ago...), so i didn't want to spend the money on a 1310 u joint dana 35 yoke to go to regular 1310 u joints...
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Thanks for posting this on the como joint. I thought I had all my spare parts in order. Time to look for this joint.