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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: damon54 on March 24, 2007, 12:10:26 PM
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I am replacing the under dash wiring in my '92 YJ and I want to replace gauge cluster in the center with the round CJ style gauges. Supposedly the new gauges have to have the correct electrical resistance to read correctly. Does anyone know if there is a brand of gauges that will wire in directly? Also when trying to remove the windshield the star bolts that hold the sport bars to the window frame are stripped out. Is there and magical way to remove those or am I just going to have to drill them out? That seems to be the biggest problem on my jeep is broken bolts and stripped screw heads.
Thanks
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I am replacing the under dash wiring in my '92 YJ and I want to replace gauge cluster in the center with the round CJ style gauges. Supposedly the new gauges have to have the correct electrical resistance to read correctly. Does anyone know if there is a brand of gauges that will wire in directly? Also when trying to remove the windshield the star bolts that hold the sport bars to the window frame are stripped out. Is there and magical way to remove those or am I just going to have to drill them out? That seems to be the biggest problem on my jeep is broken bolts and stripped screw heads.
Thanks
I don't think anyone makes plug in gauges that look like CJ's.
As for the windshield spreader bars. the best way is to remove the huge bolt that connects them to the main bar. This takes all the pressure off. Or most of it. Then the torx will have an easier time coming out. If you've screwed up the heads already then I'd try using some screw-outs. These look like small auger bits that should be able to grab the bolt. Replace them with harden steel allen heads.
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but thats a security torx bolt thing.. whats the easiest way to get that bump in the middle of it out so you can use a regular torxs on it.. or do i need to stop thinking and use a drill.
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I got to remove a rusted bolt on my windshield frame too one of these days, and when it broke the Jeep was only three years old.
As far as wiring is concerned, I wonder if you just can't use a different fuse to lower the resistance. other than that you must have bought a new dash because yj's shouldn't accept round guages if I remember right.
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but thats a security torx bolt thing.. whats the easiest way to get that bump in the middle of it out so you can use a regular torxs on it.. or do i need to stop thinking and use a drill.
No, it isn't. Look on the main hoop behind where the front spreaders attach. There is one large Torx back there. I think it's a T45 or T50. The tamper-proof tors are on the intermediate pieces between the spreader and the main hoop. Taking those off will leave you with a 4" chunk of metal sticking out of the main hoop.
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I got to remove a rusted bolt on my windshield frame too one of these days, and when it broke the Jeep was only three years old.
As far as wiring is concerned, I wonder if you just can't use a different fuse to lower the resistance. other than that you must have bought a new dash because yj's shouldn't accept round guages if I remember right.
Fuses won't reduce resistance. You will need new senders or gauges that can accept the current senders. The only gauge that would be any problem would be the gas gauge. You need to make sure you get the right ohms range.
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I've got a custom metal center panel that was fabbed to take individual round gauges. I have seen pictures of the round gauges in a YJ before I just didn't know how they wired it. Jeffy do you know what the ohms range is for the fuel gauge?
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ow i guess i didn't look into it enough.. sweet
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I've got a custom metal center panel that was fabbed to take individual round gauges. I have seen pictures of the round gauges in a YJ before I just didn't know how they wired it. Jeffy do you know what the ohms range is for the fuel gauge?
1 ohm empty and 88 ohms full, I think.
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Thanks
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Could always put in a CJ dash........ :naughty:
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I like the CJ style better. How hard would it be?
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Could always put in a CJ dash........ :naughty:
I've thought about doing something in between them. Leave the YJ heater levers but use a 5.25 or 6.5" speakers. I'd reuse the dash pad since that is used for the defrost and CJ's had a similar dash pad. The other option is to leave the speedo and tack in the stock place and use flat steel or aluminum to cover the center. Then use something like a Tuffy glovebox. You'll need up with a pod in front of you. Lots of options actually.