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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: KIWIWAYNE on July 30, 2007, 11:43:14 AM
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Ive searched the net and even downloaded the fsm. thanks for the fsm download. Im regearing my d30. my old pinion has a +2 on it. does this mean it is 002 deeper in the housing than the factory 2.250 ie 2.252. my new pinion has no +or_ marks but 2.261. if my math and understanding is correct does that mean an 009 thinner oil slinger would be a good place to start?? or an even thinner oil slinger with the difference made up by shims behind the rear bearing race? i dont have a pinion depth tool but i dont mind doing math or setting up a few times to get the right pattern on the teeth. just finished doing arb regear for my 9inch rear lot easier than the d30. thank you........WAYNE
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I used the original shims as a starting point... then checked the pattern. For me the front was easier and quicker, got it on the first try. Just lucky I guess!
I think the +2 does mean 002 deeper - BTW.
Good luck.
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I think Wayne's on the mark. If the +0 for the D30 is 2.250" (haven't checked) and the gears that were in it were +2 (.002") in addition to the 2.250", thats 2.252". So then you could either shim the additional .009" with shims or a slinger.
I recommend taking your stock bearings and honing them out to make setup bearings out of them. Although you'll need to make sure your new bearings are the same size. It will save time if you're first guess is wrong.
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The math is simple no markings 0 so if you go from a pinion marked +2 to one without markings you simply subtract 0.002 of an inchh from the pinion depth shimpack those are the large shims behind the large bearing cup for the pinion in the axle. If you would go from a +2 TO SAY A +5 YOU WOULD ADD 0.003" TO THE SHIM PACK.
Since the preload is set with a chrush sleeve that is all you have to do to get the pinion depth correct.
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The math is simple no markings 0 so if you go from a pinion marked +2 to one without markings you simply subtract 0.002 of an inchh from the pinion depth shimpack those are the large shims behind the large bearing cup for the pinion in the axle. If you would go from a +2 TO SAY A +5 YOU WOULD ADD 0.003" TO THE SHIM PACK.
Since the preload is set with a chrush sleeve that is all you have to do to get the pinion depth correct.
His confusion is that the new gears don't use the +1,2,3 but rather has the actual shim depth on them.
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Yes Jeffy thats correct. I thought i was close with my math but just wanted to ask people who have more experience with jeeps than i do. Also in the other post it was mentioned a crush sleeve my d30 pinion is adjusted with shims.Thanks for all the replies. This forum has to rate as the easiest to ask questions and get good answers without worrying about being shot down. Arent we all newbies at every new thing we try?
Once again thank you all.
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Yes Jeffy thats correct. I thought i was close with my math but just wanted to ask people who have more experience with jeeps than i do. Also in the other post it was mentioned a crush sleeve my d30 pinion is adjusted with shims.Thanks for all the replies. This forum has to rate as the easiest to ask questions and get good answers without worrying about being shot down. Arent we all newbies at every new thing we try?
Once again thank you all.
You should either have crush sleeves (TJ) or shims (XJ/YJ) to set the preload. For the crush sleeve, you need to set the pinion depth with the crush sleeve removed.(IIRC) Once it's set you put the crush sleeve back in and crush it so it will be compressed to basically shim depth. Then it adds pressure to the pinion and that's how it preloads the pinion.
If you have just shims then its a lot easier and once you set the pinion depth, you tighten the nut till the preload is on the money. Actually, it's the same process as the crush sleeve but a lot easier since you don't have to crush the sleeve first (+300lbs-ft required).