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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: dexetr30 on September 24, 2007, 07:29:53 PM
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Does anyone know where I may be able to find a write up on d.i.y. rocker guards. I know it's just easier to purchase a set and bolt them on but doing so lacks a sense of achievement for me. Besides, I've gotten pretty good at welding and fabricating. I have a few ideas I'm kicking around in my head but I'd like to see how others may have done it.
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Large piece of angle iron or get some 3/16 plate and have it set at a 90 degree angle. that way you can slip it under the 2 body mounts of the tub gives it more support and strenght. I could send you a couple a pics of how the poison spider rockers that I have are put together and how they mount
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Large piece of angle iron or get some 3/16 plate and have it set at a 90 degree angle. that way you can slip it under the 2 body mounts of the tub gives it more support and strenght. I could send you a couple a pics of how the poison spider rockers that I have are put together and how they mount
Pictures would be great. I was thinking angle iron with plate welded to it extending towards the frame and then mounting to it in some way for strength and support.
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My friends have 6"x4" 90* angle iron. I like the clean look of them. If you need a step you can go old school with a fold down step. On the inside you'd want to use a strip of flat metal so the bolts have something to hold onto and not pull out through the body. The plates would go under the doors.
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My friends have 6"x4" 90* angle iron. I like the clean look of them. If you need a step you can go old school with a fold down step. On the inside you'd want to use a trip of flat metal so the bolts have something to hold onto and put pull through the body.
Excellent idea. I'm going to have to look into the price of some iron.
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Angle iron with a plate welded to it will work I like how these sandwich between the body mount and the body gives it pretty good support underneat and nothing sticks out. As for the tube on the side, I am sure it makes it stronger is it necesary? I doubt it, I simply like the look of it
(http://hotimg12.fotki.com/a/76_81/94_48/tweety-001.jpg) (http://hotimg12.fotki.com/p/a/76_81/94_48/tweety-001.jpg)
(http://hotimg12.fotki.com/a/76_81/94_48/tweety-002.jpg) (http://hotimg12.fotki.com/p/a/76_81/94_48/tweety-002.jpg)
(http://hotimg5.fotki.com/b/76_81/94_48/tweety-003.jpg) (http://hotimg5.fotki.com/p/b/76_81/94_48/tweety-003.jpg)
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I made my own from 4"x4"x.25" angle iron, then welded on 2" square tube for a step and tree standoff. Makes for a 6" skid across the bottom. Mounted to the tub only (no body mounts). It's taken some hard hits, as evident by the scratches in the paint.
(http://sija.org/bounty/jeepmods/DSCN3174.JPG)
(http://sija.org/bounty/jeepmods/DSCN3175.JPG)
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Angle iron with a plate welded to it will work I like how these sandwich between the body mount and the body gives it pretty good support underneat and nothing sticks out. As for the tube on the side, I am sure it makes it stronger is it necessary? I doubt it, I simply like the look of it.
aw12345I like the way these mount to the body/frame mounts. However, I don't understand why they don't tie them into the 3rd body mound below the "Jeep" logo shown in your photo. I really like poison spiders products but for me they are overpriced. I'm pretty sure I could come up with a rocker guard that is comparable. The only problem is I have to depend on someone else to make all the cuts (I need a good chop saw) and I don't always get my projects back when I want them. ???
I made my own from 4"x4"x.25" angle iron, then welded on 2" square tube for a step and tree standoff. Makes for a 6" skid across the bottom. Mounted to the tub only (no body mounts). It's taken some hard hits, as evident by the scratches in the paint.
Your design and fab is great. I just may go this route or something very similar. I especially like the step/standoff feature. Since I don't have a tubing bender I was trying to come up with a way to bend tubing to make the stand off in my design. You ended my pondering with the 2" tubing.
Thanks for the help guys. :thumb:
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I made my own from 4"x4"x.25" angle iron, then welded on 2" square tube for a step and tree standoff. Makes for a 6" skid across the bottom. Mounted to the tub only (no body mounts). It's taken some hard hits, as evident by the scratches in the paint.
Good looking design. Is it bolted to the bottom of the tub too?
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Good looking design. Is it bolted to the bottom of the tub too?
No, just the side of the tube using grade 8 bolts. It gets a lot of rigidity due to bolting ahead of and behind the firewall, and through the boxed section that the seatbelt attaches to. You can stand on it, jack under it, slam it on boulders, it's stout.
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For cutting the steel in lue of a chop saw you can do reasonably weel with a regular circular saw witha metal cutting blade in it. The blades are dirt cheap at harbor freight, use a piece of angle iron or a 2x4 even clampen on to the metal as a guide and it makes pretty nice cuts. Not as fast but gets the job done
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I did mine basically like bounty hunter but i never got around to putting any kind of step on. Was going to do a tube type step but seriously i will ever got around to it. As long as you make sure the guards are tight up againgst the bottom of the tub it should be fine. I have dropped mine pretty hard on rocks before and it has held up fine. Sorry, i dont have any better pics.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v623/ncjeepinyj/DSCF0126.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v623/ncjeepinyj/Wheelin%20trips/Beech%20Mtn%207-14-07/IMG_8138.jpg)
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For cutting the steel in lue of a chop saw you can do reasonably weel with a regular circular saw witha metal cutting blade in it. The blades are dirt cheap at harbor freight, use a piece of angle iron or a 2x4 even clampen on to the metal as a guide and it makes pretty nice cuts. Not as fast but gets the job done
You can even do it with a hack saw. I've done it a few times and it is slow but it does the job.
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For cutting the steel in lue of a chop saw you can do reasonably weel with a regular circular saw witha metal cutting blade in it. The blades are dirt cheap at harbor freight, use a piece of angle iron or a 2x4 even clampen on to the metal as a guide and it makes pretty nice cuts. Not as fast but gets the job done
You can even do it with a hack saw. I've done it a few times and it is slow but it does the job.
Well, I wouldn't go that far. But I would use a reciprocating saw. Does anyone think a good recip saw would have a problem going through 1/4" hot rolled? I've got two of them from when I was working construction a few years back.
On another not... I got the bumper cut, drilled and painted. I'll post pictures of it later.
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Well, I wouldn't go that far. But I would use a reciprocating saw. Does anyone think a good recip saw would have a problem going through 1/4" hot rolled? I've got two of them from when I was working construction a few years back.
On another not... I got the bumper cut, drilled and painted. I'll post pictures of it later.
It might take you a few(several) blades.
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(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s261/sreices/snikers.gif)
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(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s261/sreices/snikers.gif)
Then I'll just keep giving the work to my bro to cut while he's at work. I don't have the cash right now for a chop saw and I don't like Snickers. lol
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The circular saw with some angle iron or a 2x4 as a guide will make straighter cuts and is quicker. With patience a saws all will work but straight cuts might be a bear. They work like a charm for sheetmetal and exhaust work though
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The circular saw with some angle iron or a 2x4 as a guide will make straighter cuts and is quicker. With patience a saws all will work but straight cuts might be a bear. They work like a charm for sheetmetal and exhaust work though
I have a 10" compound mitre saw that may be plenty powerful. I think I'll give that a try.