4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: BOOGIE444 on October 24, 2007, 12:49:19 PM
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I plan on going with a rough country 4" lift, it comes with a transfer case lowering kit do I still need a sye & new longer rear driveshaft to avoid drivetrain vibrations and problems??? Oh and the lift is for a TJ.
Sorry for another newb quesiton......
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Not right away but if you want to remove that transfer case spacer you will need one. Well that really depends on how much offroading you plan on doing. If it's little to none then you should be ok with just the shims. Still it's best to do it right and get the SYE.
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I dont mind having the transfer case shims in there, I just dont want the drivetrain to shake itself apart. So when you install a sye a longer driveshaft is req's right? You cant just put a sye in by itself?
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I dont mind having the transfer case shims in there, I just dont want the drivetrain to shake itself apart. So when you install a sye a longer driveshaft is req's right? You cant just put a sye in by itself?
No, you need a new driveshaft. The stock one will not long work. Not only is it not long enough but it you're also moving from a slip-yoke to a standard U-joint. (or double U-joint aka: double cardon/CV)
If you go offroad then you will want to have the SYE.
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Why do you feel a sye and driveshaft is necessary for offroad but no so much for on road?
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bc on road you dont flex much and the angle of the shaft dont change much. off road the angle changes numerous amounts of times. plus if you blow apart you rear axle, you can simply unbgolt your driveshaft and drive home. w/o the sye you can't rlly drive w/o pluging the hole in the tcase., or you will loose all your fluid.
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Why do you feel a sye and driveshaft is necessary for offroad but no so much for on road?
First off you're raising the jeep 4" but you're only lowering the transfer case 1". This brings the driveshaft out of phase which can cause vibrations. You can get cam'ed control arms bolts to help move the pinion back into phase though. The angle is still fairly steep even with shims. This means the U-joints will be doing more work and wear out faster then normal. When you're on road, the axle moves very little. When you're off road it moves a lot more. Mostly twisting but also some compressing and extensions as well. With the stock driveshaft you lose that 1" of ground clearance because of the shims. You also risk having the driveshaft fall out when the suspension is in extension. Worst case the driveshaft will slide out as you're putting the power on and it cracks the slip yoke or twists the splines. The slip yokes don't have that much slip built into them. With the lift, there will be more shaft exposed since there is a greater distance to cover. When the driveshaft is removed, a 2" hole is exposed and if left unplugged, it will leak badly.
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Thanks guys, I actually understand why a sye is needed, other than just because quadratec says so.
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Looks like I better skip the locker / limited slip idea and put that cash towards a sye & driveshaft.
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Well if I am going to stick the money in a sye and driveshaft might as well stick a 1" coil spring spacer in there to get 5" of lift, or does this change other stuff too.
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There are several cases to be made for a sye and cv shaft the biggest is when lifting the drive shaft could end up being to short. Now on TJ's removing the rear shaft does not cause an oil leak like a TJ however the stock output shaft is very skinny and can break and will cause an oil leak a SYE addresses this problem with a thicker shaft.
You could lift it 5" if you want with a SYE and cv shaft
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There are several cases to be made for a sye and cv shaft the biggest is when lifting the drive shaft could end up being to short. Now on TJ's removing the rear shaft does not cause an oil leak like a TJ however the stock output shaft is very skinny and can break and will cause an oil leak a SYE addresses this problem with a thicker shaft.
You could lift it 5" if you want with a SYE and cv shaft
What? Does anyone know what that babble means? What size tires do you want to run with 5" of lift? For 33s you definitely won't need that much, and I wouldn't do it. That's just my opinion though. The less lift you can run for the tire size the happier and more stable you'll be.
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5" is a lot of height for a short-arm type lift, will cause lots of problems offroad and on. Like mentioned above, use as little lift as possible to clear your desired tire height. A 3" or 3.5" kit works well with a 1" body lift.
You can get a good SYE for as low as $180, and I recommend getting a used TJ or XJ front driveshaft and having it shortened for use in the rear with the SYE. Save you a lot of $$.
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Ok, I will stick with 4" lift, and if it looks to wimpy I will stick a 1" body lift on it at a later time. Where do they sell sye for $180? The lowest I seen is on quadratec for $219.00.
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http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?products_id=153
I've installed about a 1/2 dozen of these kits.
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4 inch will not look whimpy. What you also have to remember is that having a 4 banger you also have less weight up front. So when you add a lift that is designed to compensate for the extra weight of a six cylinder, you end up getting a little more lift out of the front end so you can get away with a little bit larger tire. I Bought my jeep with a 4 inch superlift already on it. Yes it dose have the spacers not the SYE, but if i could do it over i would get the 2.5 old man emu with a 1 BL. IMO Just the right ammount of lift so you can easily fit 33's and not look whimpy at all :thumb:
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Get a hack and tap Rubicon Express SYE with a CV RE driveshaft. Way cheaper, and with a 4 cylinder the output shaft doesn't need to be any stronget than it already is with up to 33 in tires.
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The hack & tap RE sye look alot different than other kinds, it doesnt look like they have a new shaft with them either, do they work??
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Does anyone have pictures of one installed? Does it make the output any shorter or does it just eliminate the slip yoke?
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Does anyone have pictures of one installed? Does it make the output any shorter or does it just eliminate the slip yoke?
You replace the output cone so the transfer case is shorter as well as eliminates the slip yoke.
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Thanks. I found this link too.
http://www.angelfire.com/nc3/84jeepxj/sye.html
I don't know, looks like the spline engagement gets reduced too much.
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I just looked at the hack & tap install linky...
Thats not for me, I will just order a regular sye if I need one.
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Thanks. I found this link too.
http://www.angelfire.com/nc3/84jeepxj/sye.html
I don't know, looks like the spline engagement gets reduced too much.
The reason for that length is because that's what the yoke rides on. You meed a minimum of 2" or so for the yoke. Since the new yoke won't be moving, it's fine.
Also, if you own a YJ, don't buy a hack & Tap. YJ's don't have the rear seal in the housing so the Hack & Taps are usually $100 more then the TJ kits. Strength wise, I've never heard of anyone having trouble with any of the SYE kits.
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Also, if you own a YJ, don't buy a hack & Tap. YJ's don't have the rear seal in the housing so the Hack & Taps are usually $100 more then the TJ kits. Strength wise, I've never heard of anyone having trouble with any of the SYE kits.
Unless you're like me and have dozens of TJ mainshafts and tailhousings sitting around to use with the H&T.
My H&T works just fine, but it's a little longer than the HD SYE kits.
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Unless you're like me and have dozens of TJ mainshafts and tailhousings sitting around to use with the H&T.
My H&T works just fine, but it's a little longer than the HD SYE kits.
Collecting them I see... :lol:
The length of the SYE's used to range from 5.5"-4.5". Then you have the super slim that give you another 2".
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Leftovers from all the SYE installs, spare parts never hurt :whistle: