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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Bob416 on January 16, 2008, 12:25:15 PM
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in the next few months ill probably be looking into gettin rid of my stock D30/D35 to something a bit stronger. eventually i want to have 35's or 36's but in the mean time i dont wanna buy a locker or gears for an axle that ill be getting rid of.
Im pretty sure ill get either a ford 8.8" or 9" rear depending on what i can find but my problem is with the front. i know a D44 would be plenty strong enough but that would limit me to 4.88 gears and i dont think thatll be low enough. does anyone know what the cheapest axle is that will fit 5.36's? i think a D44 high pinion will work but im not sure where to find one that would fit and keep the same bolt pattern
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The D30 will limit you to that...but the 44 will let you go lower....
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You can get 5.38 for a Dana 44. The D30 is the one limited to 4.88.
http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/470_496_23_410/sort/2a/page/2?osCsid=a54a958f1edb1ef9898f07398c9bdb35
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A "real" dana 44 (both high and low pinion) will take 5.38 gears. The Rubicon (I wish I were really a D44) only goes down to 5.13
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Is this limitation of the Rubicon due to the stock carrier with the special 4.10 gears? Can it use 5.38 if the carrier is changed?
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Is this limitation of the Rubicon due to the stock carrier with the special 4.10 gears? Can it use 5.38 if the carrier is changed?
If you tossed out the rubicon locker and used a standard D44 carrier then you could use 5.38 gears. If you did that, what's the point of keeping the rubicon 44?
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Sounds like it could be about the same price to put in a real D44 in that case, especially if you sold the Rubi axle to offset the cost. Might even come out ahead.
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Sounds like it could be about the same price to put in a real D44 in that case, especially if you sold the Rubi axle to offset the cost. Might even come out ahead.
There's really no point in doing that. A dana 30 with alloy shafts is pretty close to being as strong as a Dana 44 in all the important ways. A d30 stub is stronger than a d44 stub - the inners on a 30 are slightly weaker. I havn't heard of anyone ever breaking HP D30 ring gears, so the d44 gears being stronger is irrelevant. Balljoints on a real 44 are stronger - only ever seen someone shear off a balljoint on a D30 once.
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I always learn a lot here. In my own case, I'll stick with my D30, maybe one day get alloy axles. For lower gearing I'm thinking about an SM420 and engine swap.
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There are a few choices. One is to get a Rubicon D44 core and put your own carrier in it. You'll be able to reuse your outer knuckles, outer shafts, brakes, etc... Then all you'd need to do is get gears and the inner shafts. That would probably be the easiest.
Next option would be to get a D44 from something like a SJ or a Early Bronco. These will be the wrong bolt pattern for your rear axle. You'll need to either get adapters and run new wheels or else drill the flanges and run the larger pattern. Best to go with a SJ since you need to upgrade both axles anyway.
Other option would be to go big and get a D60/70 combo from a Ford F-350. You'd be going full width but you can fix that with some negative offset wheels. This would be equivalent to you running 3.75" BS on stock axles. Not cheap but a good increase in strength.
Also, if you're planning on going with super low gears like an Atlas 4, Klune or and engine swap, then you'd be better off with a D44 then a 30.
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Do you think the combination of a GM 4.3 V6 with an SM420 which would give me a crawl ratio of 7.0 X 2.72 X 4.56 = 86.8 would be too much for a stock D30? How about a D30 with alloy axles?
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Do you think the combination of a GM 4.3 V6 with an SM420 which would give me a crawl ratio of 7.0 X 2.72 X 4.56 = 86.8 would be too much for a stock D30? How about a D30 with alloy axles?
That's going to depend on tire size/weight and driving style. Friend of mine ran a 4.0L/5 speed/Atlas with 37's for years on a d30 without problems, but he was a very technical driver. While I used to run a 225/TH400/D18 on 37's and was snapping D44 stub shafts like they were made out of glass.
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I guess I'll just have to try it some day and see what happens. In general I try not to be too hard on vehicles and the tire size would be just 33 inches.
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I guess I'll just have to try it some day and see what happens. In general I try not to be too hard on vehicles and the tire size would be just 33 inches.
That should work just fine. I'm running 35's on big heavy wheels with a stock disconnect D30 and a drive by braile style. So far no breakage.
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thanks for the speedy replies every1! i think ill look for a rubi 44 and if i decide that i really need somethin more than 5.13's then ill only have to worry about switchin out the carrier
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Just a side note to your original post. I believe 4:88 is the lowest gear offered for the Ford 8.8.
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Just a side note to your original post. I believe 4:88 is the lowest gear offered for the Ford 8.8.
Nope. 5.13 is the lowest ratio for an 8.8
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Even a hpd60 will only go to 5.38's. Any lower and you have to do low pinion.
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for $50 i got a ford explorer 8.8 with disc brakes the other day but it has no gears in it rite now so i was looking to see how much they would cost and i came across a few things that really confused me. on the yukon site i found 5.36 gears for not just the 8.8 and the D44 (rubi-44 was only 5.13) but also for a D30 and D35. is this a misprint or will those gears be extra thin or something?
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for $50 i got a ford explorer 8.8 with disc brakes the other day but it has no gears in it rite now so i was looking to see how much they would cost and i came across a few things that really confused me. on the yukon site i found 5.36 gears for not just the 8.8 and the D44 (rubi-44 was only 5.13) but also for a D30 and D35. is this a misprint or will those gears be extra thin or something?
You will have to dig a little further on the D30 ratios. The D30 was available since the 60s so its been around for a long time. Back then, the CJ had the 4cyl in it and the ratio was 5.38. For a TJ, the D30 is not the same as those earlier models. TJs have a crush sleave bearing setup in place of the shim bearing setup of the earlier versions. The CJ models of the 50s had the similar setup but with a D27 front axle. It was also geared as low as 5.38. But the engine was only a very low hp 4cyl.
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There's really no point in doing that. A dana 30 with alloy shafts is pretty close to being as strong as a Dana 44 in all the important ways.
Except housing strength. Then the D44 adds greater aftermarket support and better prices for diffs, gearing, highsteer, etc.
I run 5.38, had to go to a Waggy D44 front and Isuzu D44 rear. Good thing is 4whl discs and matching 6-lug all the way around.
I run 35" radials on the street and 36" TSL's offroad, this thing is more driveable than when stock. Cruises along nicely in 5th, can even accelerate up moderate grades in 5th. Passing, no problem.
I don't think you'll be happy rowing the gears with a heavy truck tranny, I'd regear the axles low to compensate for the tires and your jeep will be a lot more driveable.