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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Jeep_Lust on March 07, 2008, 11:05:42 AM
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Folks,
I've got an opportunity to pick up an '87 Dana 35 axle w/ low mileage. Trouble is, my '90 Dana 35 uses different brakes than do the '87 - '89s. Does anyone know if I can just swap my brakes onto the early axle, or is there something different about the axle housing or shafts that would prevent this?
Thanks as always.
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Hmm, you must have a late 90 then. Swapping them isn't really an issue since they use the same flange bolt pattern. The only problem would be to check and make sure the backing plates are the same thickness. The 10x1.75" to 9x2.5" brake change as well as going from C-clipped axles happened in 90/91. I'd imagine they are the same thickness though. I know probably have swapped the C-clipped axle shafts for the non before.
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Why? :pot:
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Why?
Because I just put completely new brakes on my '90, but everything else in the axles has 175K on it. I'd like to pick up a second set of axles so that I can setup the 4.88s on the bench, and then swap it all over. The '87 axles (he's selling both front & rear) have 59K on them, so the CV's etc. should be in pretty good shape.
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I think he ment why put a D35 back in. If your going through the trouble of swaping you should look at a Ford Explorer 8.8 Look it up they are fairly easy to put in a YJ
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Nah, was just wondering why all the trouble for 'rear' brakes, such a small change that would make no noticeable difference in performance.
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I think he ment why put a D35 back in. If your going through the trouble of swaping you should look at a Ford Explorer 8.8 Look it up they are fairly easy to put in a YJ
Actually, that's a good idea; especially since I already have one (still under the explorer). That would get me rear discs, too.
I'd considered it when I first got the Jeep, but dismissed the idea because I'd have to re-gear; now that I'm regearing anyway...
Thanks; I'll look it up.
ps. Anybody know if the stock master cylinder will work with Ford rear discs? Big difference in bore size between the stock wheel cylinders and the calipers on the Ford rear.
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Actually, that's a good idea; especially since I already have one (still under the explorer). That would get me rear discs, too.
I'd considered it when I first got the Jeep, but dismissed the idea because I'd have to re-gear; now that I'm regearing anyway...
Thanks; I'll look it up.
ps. Anybody know if the stock master cylinder will work with Ford rear discs? Big difference in bore size between the stock wheel cylinders and the calipers on the Ford rear.
79 Mercury Marquis w 4 wheel disc MC works a lot better than stock with the 8.8 rear.
You have to take the bail off of it and shorten the side closest to the booster so it fits tight against the MC.
You also have to swap the fittings on the prop valve to MC lines or just replace those lines, since the fittings are reversed on the Merc MC
Costs about $13
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EDIT - make that a 78 Mercury Marquis MC. Not sure if there's a difference 78 to 79 but the one I used is a 1978
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EDIT - make that a 78 Mercury Marquis MC. Not sure if there's a difference 78 to 79 but the one I used is a 1978
Thanks for that info; that's good to know.
Have you had any problems from the lateral offset of the pinion on the Ford rear? I'm concerned because my driveshaft will be 3" shorter than stock, due to the longer automatic trans.
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Thanks for that info; that's good to know.
Have you had any problems from the lateral offset of the pinion on the Ford rear? I'm concerned because my driveshaft will be 3" shorter than stock, due to the longer automatic trans.
No, but then again my motor is 7" forward of stock ;)
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Yeah; I thought about moving the engine forward (mainly to save money on having the driveshafts reworked - I'm a cheap SOB) but it seemed like a lot of work. I'd hoped that I could leave the stock frame mounts in place, but the oil filter (or even a remote adaptor) would interfere. Did you cut your frame mounts off and reweld them, or did you go to a different style of mount?
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Yeah; I thought about moving the engine forward (mainly to save money on having the driveshafts reworked - I'm a cheap SOB) but it seemed like a lot of work. I'd hoped that I could leave the stock frame mounts in place, but the oil filter (or even a remote adaptor) would interfere. Did you cut your frame mounts off and reweld them, or did you go to a different style of mount?
Used the stock mounts and just slid them up the frame rail, wound up getting about 1.5" drivetrain lift at the same time. My entire drivetrain is withing 1/4" of the bottom of the frame, so it's nice for clearance.
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There's pictures of most of it here: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2614.0
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Nice Job. Sure makes it easier to get to the bellhousing bolts! Is the AW4 actually 7" longer than the AX-5, or did you choose 7" for some other reason?
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Nice Job. Sure makes it easier to get to the bellhousing bolts! Is the AW4 actually 7" longer than the AX-5, or did you choose 7" for some other reason?
AW4 is maybe an inch longer than the AX5. 7" was as far forward as it would go before the frame mounts started hitting other things.