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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: flyingbrick on March 24, 2008, 03:28:29 PM
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I am in the process of cutting and turning the rear axle for a better pinion angle and to hopefully reduce the vibration, till my girl has the money for a new rear drive shaft (already have an SYE sitting in the box) now my first question is, i have to pull the U-bolts and have been arguing with my friends about reusing the U-bolts or not? I know there are not even 6 months old but it i was always thought to replace if removed, i was going to but i thought I'd ask since my CHEAP friends keep fighting me on it.
My second question is, i have a 4'' rubicon lift on it and rides really rough since i have the back apart i was thinking about pulling a leaf or two (the bottom two) would this be taking away too much support from the pack or what would you suggest?
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6 months isn't that long. If they look OK I'd reuse them.
How about ditching the trackbars?
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6 months isn't that long. If they look OK I'd reuse them.
How about ditching the trackbars?
Yes, ditch the trackbars!
Just check the ubolts to make sure they aren't bent. Mine were due to having put in some small washers that got kind of twisted (hard to explain but it can happen). Also, for some reason, when I took the nuts all the way off they would not go back on, I think this was becasue the u-bolts were trimmed and the trimmed edge damaged the nut threads.
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Yes, ditch the trackbars!
Just check the ubolts to make sure they aren't bent. Mine were due to having put in some small washers that got kind of twisted (hard to explain but it can happen). Also, for some reason, when I took the nuts all the way off they would not go back on, I think this was becasue the u-bolts were trimmed and the trimmed edge damaged the nut threads.
Yeah, when you trim off the extra on the U-bolts, it flares the threads on the ends so it might be difficult to reuse them without some thread chasing.
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Track-bars long gone but she might want the front one back to eliminate the ''hard stop bump-steer'' the u-bolts don't look too bad I'll clean them up and take a pic tonight. i don't know if it is possible but the leaves almost seem to be for a 4L hard top. they just ride rough.
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If the leafs are stiff, I doubt you'd notice it gone. Tweaks to the front suspension make the biggest difference in ride.
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I have noticed the 4" RE Std lift often ends up with a bad shackle angle (almost vertical). This may be causing some harshness. You may want to try some 5" shackles (like what come with the RE 4.5 ED lift vs the stock 4") to see if it helps.
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If the leafs are stiff, I doubt you'd notice it gone. Tweaks to the front suspension make the biggest difference in ride.
So your saying pull a leaf in the front, or better shocks?
I have noticed the 4" RE Std lift often ends up with a bad shackle angle (almost vertical). This may be causing some harshness. You may want to try some 5" shackles (like what come with the RE 4.5 ED lift vs the stock 4") to see if it helps.
i have about 5.5'' shackles in the rear and about the same in the front.
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So your saying pull a leaf in the front, or better shocks?
i have about 5.5'' shackles in the rear and about the same in the front.
Remove the front trackbar. Also most of the time, people overtighten the shackles. With locking nuts you shouldn't have to tighten them more the 60ft-lbs although some got even lighter. You probably also want to loosen the shackles if you haven't before then see if the bushings settle, then retighten.
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I have the same lift in my YJ, and the greasable shackles loosened up like Jeffy said really help smooth out the ride. It is still rougher than the stock springs, and that is because of the more pronounced arc of the pack... But much better than when new. By the way, they do get a bit softer after a couple of months, but the biggest difference was the greasable shackles with less torque to allow them to move freely.
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Remove the front trackbar. Also most of the time, people overtighten the shackles. With locking nuts you shouldn't have to tighten them more the 60ft-lbs although some got even lighter. You probably also want to loosen the shackles if you haven't before then see if the bushings settle, then retighten.
Again there are NO track bars on the Jeep the shackles are only torqued to about 50ft-lbs there not greasable but i greased the hell out of them before putting them together.
jfrabat, what shocks are you running the ones that came with your lift or something different?
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The ones that came with the lift kit; Deutschtec. (DT3000 I think they were called, but not sure). I do feel they are a bit bouncy, though. FOr my taste, something a little bit (not much, but a bit) more rigid would be preferable.
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OK same ones i have on there now, the only reason i am asking is cause i am selling the jeep to my girlfriend and she always complained about the ride.
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OK same ones i have on there now, the only reason i am asking is cause i am selling the jeep to my girlfriend and she always complained about the ride.
For the best ride with the kind of lift we have, the best setup is a SOA, but it also means more fabricating and some differente issues (axle warp). Still, you can always go in that direction. Keep in mind that the more you lift a Jeep (leaf sprung) with suspension lift, the stiffer it will be because the increase curvature results in more resiliance to bend...
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Well i ran down to the Jeep Doctor here in town (yeah that's the name of the place) and he said i should be ok pulling the second from bottom leaf so when i get everything back together I'll let you know my findings.
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Have you pulled your sway bar? I am not encouraging you to go one route or the other... I found when I pulled my sway bar, the ride got quite a bit better. There are also a few fine tuning things that you can do to your jeep such as:
Shocks. The DT 3000's are good. My preference is the the Sky Jackers.
Tire pressure. Most tires are are rated for a vehicle significantly heavier than what your jeep weighs. There is a fine balance to comfort/safety and having sidewalls that are stiff as a brick. Be careful not to deflate them too much (a la Firestone in the late 90's) There is a chalk test that you can do to check to see if you are over/under inflated. The quick version goes something like jack up the jeep, smear chalk on tire, lower jack, move vehicle forward and back (in driveway), raise vehicle again, inspect wear pattern. If the middle of the chalk is gone, it is over inflated. If the chalk at the outside is gone, then it is under inflated.
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Yeah thanks i thought i had the tire pressure set ok but I'll check it when i get the back end back together, I'll think about the shocks, and as for the sway bar this thing is going to my girl who is coming from a Pontiac Fiero, so the sway bar HAS to stay.
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Yeah thanks i thought i had the tire pressure set ok but I'll check it when i get the back end back together, I'll think about the shocks, and as for the sway bar this thing is going to my girl who is coming from a Pontiac Fiero, so the sway bar HAS to stay.
The swaybar shouldn't affect the ride really unless you're driving over pot holes or the like. In the suspension compresses on both sides then the swaybar does nothing other then slide in the bushings.
Tire pressure makes a big difference though. I run as low as 25psi with my 35's but that's because of the wheels I'm using and to get an optimal contact patch it needs to be low. If I run them at 30psi, the ride is noticeably harder.
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The swaybar shouldn't affect the ride really unless you're driving over pot holes or the like. In the suspension compresses on both sides then the swaybar does nothing other then slide in the bushings.
Umm Jeffy... I live in Canada, in fact the city I live in is a pot hole, you can not look down a street with out seeing them, and when I get into the US every now and then I kinda get scared that i DON'T see or feel them.