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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Jesse-James on April 16, 2008, 02:37:23 AM
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So I'm starting my SOA next week and would like opinions on steering. The plan is to use a bent and gusseted (newly fabbed, not OEM) Draglink until budget allows for high steer later on. Any tips or opinions on this. Don't care to hear "don't do it" without explination or experience, but would like some opinions from those that have "been there, done that" or information on other options.
Thanks. :thumb:
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Don't do it..... :stick:
Oh wait....I have no idea about YJ's...or TJ's for that matter.... :smokes:
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I'd make sure it's 1/4" wall. Gusseted is a good idea too. Are you not able to use a dropped pitman to get the same effect, or are you expecting it to rub on a full right turn?
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I dont have ANY experience with draglinks, but if you are looking for strength, logic would dictate that a bent rod will be less rigid and more likely to absorbe some of the force than a straght rod... So it could get you in trouble. But as I said, I have no experience, so I could be totally off the mark!
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BTW - when you get to the point of needing your Knuckles machined for the hi-steer arms, a friend of mine does them pretty inexpensively. http://www.jnutter.com/
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I have no clearance issues when I went to SOA so there was no need. :confused: YMMV.
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I'd make sure it's 1/4" wall. Gusseted is a good idea too. Are you not able to use a dropped pitman to get the same effect, or are you expecting it to rub on a full right turn?
I am expecting it to hit. As of right now it looking like a dropped pitman and a slight gussed bend. 1/4" wall is a definite.
I dont have ANY experience with draglinks, but if you are looking for strength, logic would dictate that a bent rod will be less rigid and more likely to absorbe some of the force than a straght rod...
This true, but the stock link is paper thin, so I'm thinking between the gussets and the 1/4" wall tubing strength shouldn't be an issue.
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BTW - when you get to the point of needing your Knuckles machined for the hi-steer arms, a friend of mine does them pretty inexpensively. http://www.jnutter.com/
Looks like it's just for the D44's.
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Looks like it's just for the D44's.
What kind of axle have you got? If it's a kingpin 60 you don't need to do any machining.
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Right now it's irrelevant as I'm running a 30, not sure what it'll be down the road. I'll definitely keep him in mind though.
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I am expecting it to hit. As of right now it looking like a dropped pitman and a slight gussed bend. 1/4" wall is a definite.
This true, but the stock link is paper thin, so I'm thinking between the gussets and the 1/4" wall tubing strength shouldn't be an issue.
What perches are you using?
Might as well replace the existing drag-link with something thicker or at minimum sleeve the existing one.
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What perches are you using?
Nothing special, whatever my buddy's shop has in stock. Something I should be looking at?
Might as well replace the existing drag-link with something thicker or at minimum sleeve the existing one.
Either way we're making a new one out of 1/4" wall.
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Nothing special, whatever my buddy's shop has in stock. Something I should be looking at?
Either way we're making a new one out of 1/4" wall.
Well, they need to be offset. The RE's are the ones to get for the D30 and they're cheap. THey also allow you to clear the drag-link without issues.
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Offset how? Forgive my lack of understanding here as some of this is new to me. Are they taller or something? How do they make for more clearance with the draglink? Looking at yours I can't believe it doesn't hit on a tight right turn.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2003h.jpg)
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If you look at the one on the driver's side you can see how the horizontal part sticks out to the left more than to the right. I think this is the offset. Don't know about the height.
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Here is a simple idea that might help you avoid the bent drag link idea. I am not a fan of the bent drag link idea. If you want, I'll explain.
If you are going to make a drag link anyways, why not make a tie rod as well? Make your tie rod with the attachment point inboard just an inch or two so that you can properly clear the spring pack. You don't want to get too radical as you are changing the fulcrum on the steering, but an inch or so inboard could be doable. Another thing that you can do is to sleeve your drag link and tie rod. JP had an article a few years back about sleeving drag links and tie rods. Very simple, but makes it a lot stronger...
Nice! A new radiator...
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(http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Img_Products/Pn/1/1891/Photographs/0/590.jpg)
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Products.aspx?pn=1891&Vid=F0D5F25298322
You'll need to have them offset or else you'll have the perch on the housing rather then on the axle tube. With the offset the leg will rest right against the housing where the tube enters.
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Offset how? Forgive my lack of understanding here as some of this is new to me. Are they taller or something? How do they make for more clearance with the draglink? Looking at yours I can't believe it doesn't hit on a tight right turn.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/1992-2007/2003h.jpg)
BTW that picture is deceiving. If you look at it carefully, you can see that the camera was lower the then tie-rods. This is so the rear suspension would be in the shot. So it may look like the drag-link is against the leafs but they are far from it.
These were taken just a few minutes ago. They tell the true story.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/jeep/Jeep.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/jeep/Jeep-4.jpg)
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How about an articulated shot to the passenger's side?
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How about an articulated shot to the passenger's side?
I'll have to dig one up but remember as one side goes up the angle is reduced and the pitman arm is now lower then it was originally with the tie-rod.
OK, here's a picture. It's hard to tell because of the angle but it's still not touching. :twofingers: You'll also note the tire is turned to the right a bit. :ass:
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/jeep/DSCN3476.jpg)
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Hmmm... Interesting. :beers:
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Well, from what I can figure it would be when the pass side droops that it would hit. We are going to try it the way yours is set up and check clearances then go from there.
As far as the perches, My buddy is making them at the shop. They will have a larger radius on the inside to deal with the lip of the housing. Shouldn't be a problem that way as far as I can tell.
Can't wait. Starting on it this Friday.
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Well, it hits. Jeffy I just don't understand the difference but on mine it doesn't clear. Not even close, in this pic it's about a half inch on the steering stop before full turn. Tomorrow a new draglink will be in the works.
(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i33/jlafaive/YJ%20Lift/DSC02064.jpg)
(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i33/jlafaive/YJ%20Lift/DSC02062.jpg)
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Well, it hits. Jeffy I just don't understand the difference but on mine it doesn't clear. Not even close, in this pic it's about a half inch on the steering stop before full turn. Tomorrow a new draglink will be in the works.
(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i33/jlafaive/YJ%20Lift/DSC02064.jpg)
(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i33/jlafaive/YJ%20Lift/DSC02062.jpg)
Well, here's what I can tell from the picts. There looks to be very little or no weight on the axles. (There is also a lot of arch in those leafs, which should be relatively flat if not inverted a bit.) The axle looks to be still horizontal which means both sides are hanging with very little weight on them. In the real world this can only happen if have the front airborne or your hung up on the transfer case/frame and the front axle is hanging. Normally, you will only have one side up and one side down. Although you might have both sides compressed but it's unlikely to have both sides extended like that.
What you might want to do is put the tires on and use the rack to articulate the suspension and then see if it still hits.
In any case, if you really think you need the bent drag-link then go ahead and bend it.
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I retract my previous statement, it clears. Finished a few things and flexed the crap out of it and it clears by about 1/4" with the wheel turned. Couldn't believe it.
(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i33/jlafaive/YJ%20Lift/DSC02100.jpg)
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Anyone have experience with the JB4X4 (http://www.jb4x4.com/products.htm) bracket? I looked at the BTF (http://www.expertoffroad.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=2-BTF11100) one but it says it's for a heim joint and I'm not too fond of the idea of having a heim joint in the steering linkage on something that will see the street. Shows the JB4x4 bracket uses the stock draglink and just needs it lengthened 2". For 160.00 shipped, that brings high steer into my price range.