4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: benpeters8 on October 19, 2005, 12:34:53 PM
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i just got a stock 98 wrangler w/ a 1" lift and 31" a/ts. what are some easy "first step" engine upgrades. i would like more horsepower, torque, acceleration etc. o and i dont want to spend more than around $300 on any particular part.
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Well a quick search would point you towards gears. It won't give you any more horse power but it will increase torque and that's what will get you moving.
You might want to go through the FAQ, then go through the How-To's and the Product Reviews.
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Electric fan from a Taurus 3.8L ($10-$50 at the junkyard).
4.0L Throttle body
INtake tube with conical K&N
Performance camshaft
Performance exhaust.
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Electric fan from a Taurus 3.8L ($10-$50 at the junkyard).
4.0L Throttle body
INtake tube with conical K&N
Performance camshaft
Performance exhaust.
Don't forget to relocate your Air Intake sensor from your intake manifold to the air filter box.
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so an electric fan from a ford taurus would really work? iight yea ill try that. and how do i relocate the air intake sensor...?
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Does relocating the air intake sensor, just fool the engine into thinking the intake air is colder so it throws more fuel in? What is the chemestry behind it? Thanks
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Wasn't someone doing a write-up on the Taurus Fan?
Any progress on that, I'd like to do that work up when I get back to the states...
Thanks
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yep, that's me, i'll work on it and have it up soon.
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Don't forget to relocate your Air Intake sensor from your intake manifold to the air filter box.
this is the first ive heard of this please explain how and why
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I don't think the 2.5L has the MAT sensor to relocate to the intake, I've only seen it on 4.0L XJ's. :roll:
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I just replaced my TB with the 4.0 TB
I am very happy to report a gain in low end performance, a little bit of high end performance nad a smoother idle and acceleration. Deinately worth the $35 I spent on it.
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I don't think the 2.5L has the MAT sensor to relocate to the intake, I've only seen it on 4.0L XJ's. :roll:
So what was the answer?? Does a 2.5 have one? Where?? How do I relocate it?
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I don't think the 2.5L has the MAT sensor to relocate to the intake, I've only seen it on 4.0L XJ's. :roll:
So what was the answer?? Does a 2.5 have one? Where?? How do I relocate it?
Yeah, me too. What exactly is the scoop on this? And try to put it in "dumbed down" terms, I'm not much on the technical stuff, but I'm learning (from sites like this and Jeepz.com).
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According to the TJ FSM, there is a Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IATS) on the intake. I'm not sure of it's location on the YJ though. I'll need to look it up.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/4BangerJP/IATS/069ba70c.jpg)
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We're getting closer to an answer Sparky... We're getting closer...
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We're getting closer to an answer Sparky... We're getting closer...
Yup....I can feel the hair on the back of my neck standing up!
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We're getting closer to an answer Sparky... We're getting closer...
Yup....I can feel the hair on the back of my neck standing up!
Geez, you lazy bums are going to make me open up my FSM and look it up aren't you?
On a side note, I lost all my YJ FSM scans so I'm going to have to do it all over again. I think this time I'm cutting my book apart then scanning each page. :cry:
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Geez, you lazy bums are going to make me open up my FSM and look it up aren't you?
LOL Now he's just teasing us.... :P
Based on that photo, the IAPS is on the manifold. So if this topic title is correct (even on a TJ), how is that a simple mod? not only how do you move it to the air filter box, what do you do with the hole left in it's place?
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Geez, you lazy bums are going to make me open up my FSM and look it up aren't you?
LOL Now he's just teasing us.... :P
I think you're right!
what do you do with the hole left in it's place?
Duct tape? Chewing gum? Get that little boy from Holland to stick his finger in it?
I'm a patient man, Jeffy...take your time. I'll expect an answer by 6pm CST.
:twisted:
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Get that little boy from Holland to stick his finger in it?
hehehe... he said 'dike'...
(http://www.123posters.com/images/movie/f-beavis1.jpg)
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Ok, you can stop playing circle jerk.
I did some work on my Jeep and snapped a picture of the intake manifold. The IATS is in the picture.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/yokomura/4BangerJP/IATS/1d08278e.jpg)
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Ok Jeffy... Besides the Bevis & Butthead jokes... You Rule!!
Now let's discuss it's usage, or better yet, it's movage.
It was mentioned to move it into the airbox (correct?). I have personally popped all the rivets out of the side of the factory box, opening up most of that inside part. I have also pulled out those two reducers that go into the airbox and into the throttle body. Aside from that, the airbox is there, and intact (K&N air filter).
So assuming that we pull that part off of the manifold, and bung the hole. Drill out the airbox and screw it in there??
Where? On the tube to the throttle body? On the top or lid of the airbox?? Inside the airbox, pre-air filter?
An expensive way to do this could be to buy another sensor and leave that one right where it is. This will eliminate having to buy a bung, screwing around in that area and perhaps causing leakage. Then with your brand spanking new one, screw that into the airbox area stated early, unplugging the wires from the one, and plugging it into the wires from the other.
Worst case scenario is that if it doesn't work, you could always unplug your modification, and re-plug it back into the original.
Please note that the main question here is... where do you relocate it to?
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You would still need to cut and splice the plug to reach the airbox. You'd probably want to move it to the lid of the airbox.
One thing to consider when removing stuff and cutting holes on other things is that the MAP reads pressure. By removing the ventury, you increase the CFM but you reduce the pressure. This throws off the MAP and the PCM ends up leaning out the Fuel mixture. It also changes the vacuum for the booster.
Found this out after I went back to the stock box for emisisons. Low-end torque picked up and the brakes firmed up too.
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This one I'm going to have to get back to you on...
Whooossshhh, that was the sound of the verturi, brakes and whatnot going over my head. :roll:
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Ok... I've learned through websites on how to cut the vent tube on a gas filler to create a larger tank. I've worked in the four-wheel drive industry for many, many years learning about the coolest upgrades out there.
I've bought, and had been given different forms of modifications and upgrades. I've tried (financially) to build it and fix it as economically as possible.
Opening up the air box was another one of those freebie upgrades that I’ve learned through boards…
This brings me to this topic… And a simple straight forward question. Is it worth doing? The link in my siggy shows all the upgrades I’ve done. Will this add more?
The 1994 model has a computer that cannot be upgraded. I’ve contacted JET and they’ve tried for me. OB1, or something like that won’t hold their codes and it keeps putting itself back to normal.
Without all the technical lingo, Is it worth doing?
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WHY WOULD I WANT TO DO THIS????
does it increase the capacitance of my blinker fluid?
So all of you are just itching to do this, without even knowing what purpose it does? :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
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WHY WOULD I WANT TO DO THIS????
does it increase the capacitance of my blinker fluid?
So all of you are just itching to do this, without even knowing what purpose it does? :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
I could only answer for myself. Every teeny little bit helps. Enough teeny little bits added up, and you got alot.
Plus, I'm cheap. A free, or really inexpensive upgrade, that could be benifitial is a good thing.
You asked, "Why we would do this?
Well I asked "Is it worth doing?"
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The idea is to move the IATS away from the manifold. Cooler air would be more dense and the PCM would theoretically add a bit more fuel.
The other theory is that the IATS should be reading measurements on the incoming air and not pick up heat from the intake manifold which is right on top if the exhaust manifold. If it's not tuned to work with the engine heat, it could be forcing the engine to run leaner then it should be.
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ok i am still confused....i dont have a "air box" anymore due to installing a FIPK2 style intake so far so good but should i move what sensor????????
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ok i am still confused....i dont have a "air box" anymore due to installing a FIPK2 style intake so far so good but should i move what sensor????????
Perhaps it could be moved to either the filter itself, or if you have one of those "heat shield boxes" around the filter, you could put it there.....
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The idea is to move the IATS away from the manifold. Cooler air would be more dense and the PCM would theoretically add a bit more fuel.
The other theory is that the IATS should be reading measurements on the incoming air and not pick up heat from the intake manifold which is right on top if the exhaust manifold. If it's not tuned to work with the engine heat, it could be forcing the engine to run leaner then it should be.
I think what is happening is you are tricking the PCM into thinking the intake air is colder. the PCM should have some formula to take into account the added heat of the exhaust manifold, after all I would assume that this was taken into account when programming the computer to operate the engine efficiently. by moving the IATS you are doing the same thing as putting in a colder thermostat.
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I just threw in a TBS on my '94 YJ the other day. However, I haven't had a chance to drive it since I did it because I got ran over by a little old lady in a VW bug and sprained my ankle really bad. :cry: It's snowing now, and come heck or high water, I'm taking it out of the garage today and testing the TBS!!!
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I stongly believe throttle bodys do work. The ones with ridges on the walls of the center bore only work with slow speeds and do add torque. A smooth bore would give you smoother air transitions and would also have benefits at higher speeds. As far as the IAT (intake air temp) sensor in your manifold it measures the air temp inside the manifold ( clearly ). If you relocated it will physically pickup cooler air temps and send it to be read. It is not tricking anything. The cooler temps is really cooler temp. This also tells the ecm that the engine temp in manifold is running cooler, then it will automaticaly enrich the fuel it sends to the fuel injectors. Just like on a cold day when you first start you engine and it seems to run at a higher RPM till it warms up. Thats why its running higher RPM it is sending more fuel until that air in there warms up. ( more fuel = more horse power ). It will also advance your timing just a tad. This mod works best in warmer climates. You can purchase another sensor and place it in a cooler place and keep your factory sensor in place and that way you could alway swicth between the two. And extending the wires will have no affect on the readings it picks up. And as far as the termomostat that is only for antifreeze flow and temp. ( coolant fluid only ). Its all a balance and all engines work different, AIR / FUEL / SPARK and O Yeah those infamous sensors. Trail and error FUN !
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[...]Thats why its running higher RPM it is sending more fuel until that air in there warms up. [...]
it runs at a higher rpm by the means of the IAC (Idle Air Control) being open more until the engine warms up.
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I not sure If you still relating to the sensor in the manifold. Intake air temp. Unless you are saying it also affects the Idle Air Control. I am not sure.
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I not sure If you still relating to the sensor in the manifold. Intake air temp. Unless you are saying it also affects the Idle Air Control. I am not sure.
the IAC is controlled by the PCM, IAT has no influence on the idle air control position. I was relating to what you said regarding the higher rpm in the morning - it is controlled by the PCM by opening the IAC more (so more air into the engine) to prevent the engine from dying and is not idling at higher rpm because the mixture is richer (which it is, you are right about that).
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Yeah it is strange because I did this mod about 2 months ago and did notice power increase and alot of increase in gas mileage. Ran it for about 3 days and went back to factory location, because for some strange reason my antifreeze raidiator fluid level went way down. Later I did find that I have a small master cylinder leak and got into the O2 sensor and somehow was sending mix signal causing a lot of bucking. I will try this mod again later and see what happens.
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what vehicle?
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97 wrangler. 4 banger of course.
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97 wrangler. 4 banger of course.
relocating the IAT would make a bit of a difference but while you're in closed loop only the timing would be affected, the AFR will remain the same as the PCM will target 14.7 based on O2 feedback. I assume you moved it into the airbox. The more dramatic results are with the forced induction engines as the air heats up when compressed, so relocating it before the supercharger or turbo would read the ambient air temperature rather than the compressed air temp.
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Actually I had it in a medium size container of its own wrapped in heat reflective wrap. I was not place in air tube it was placed all by itself away from any heat and was pickng up air from outside air flow near the drivers headlight. I do not under stand why it did not work for me.